WO2019207131A1 - Utilisation cosmétique d'une composition comprenant au moins une charge spécifique et au moins un polymère tenseur spécifique pour conférer à la peau un effet tenseur - Google Patents

Utilisation cosmétique d'une composition comprenant au moins une charge spécifique et au moins un polymère tenseur spécifique pour conférer à la peau un effet tenseur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019207131A1
WO2019207131A1 PCT/EP2019/060789 EP2019060789W WO2019207131A1 WO 2019207131 A1 WO2019207131 A1 WO 2019207131A1 EP 2019060789 W EP2019060789 W EP 2019060789W WO 2019207131 A1 WO2019207131 A1 WO 2019207131A1
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Prior art keywords
powders
mixtures
chosen
composition
tightening
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PCT/EP2019/060789
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English (en)
Inventor
Bruno Liebard
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2019207131A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019207131A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of the smoothing of skin which may display wrinkles or irregularities of relief.
  • the present invention is targeted in particular at providing the cosmetic use of a composition comprising the combination of at least one specific filler and of at least one specific tightening polymer for providing the skin with a tightening effect.
  • Skin ageing results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the ageing process, a detrimental change in the structure and functions of the skin appears. The main clinical signs due to these modifications of the skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, the cause of which is a slackening and loss of the elasticity of the tissues.
  • intrinsic ageing which brings about the changes of the skin, causes in particular a slowing down of the renewal of the cells of the skin, which is reflected essentially by the appearance of detrimental clinical changes, such as the reduction in the subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of small wrinkles or fine lines, and by histopatho logical changes, such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibres, a loss of vertical fibres from the membrane of the elastic tissue, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.
  • the invention first of all relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of at least one specific filler and at least one specific tightening polymer as tightening agent for the skin for reducing, indeed even bringing about the disappearance of, wrinkles and fine lines.
  • a wrinkle is a fold of the skin, generally brought about by the ageing of the skin and which is the consequence of a detrimental chronological and thus progressive change in the collagen and elastin.
  • the first wrinkles generally appear at around 30 years.
  • the wrinkles are located on the forehead, on the external outlines of the eyes, at the mouth and between the two eyebrows.
  • a fine line is a fold on the skin which forms a small wrinkle. Fine lines are shallower than wrinkles but appear sooner.
  • the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of at least one specific filler and at least one specific tightening polymer as tightening agent for the skin for reducing the skin microrelief. It can in particular concern the smoothing of the bags under the eyes.
  • reduction of the skin microrelief' denotes both the reduction in the depth of the microfurrows and the reduction in their numbers, some being caused to disappear by virtue of the action of the agent having a tightening effect. Although smoothed, the skin of the face remains supple and lends itself to the display of facial expressions without causing a feeling of tightness.
  • the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of at least one specific filler and at least one specific tightening polymer as tightening agent for the skin for reducing the roughness of the skin.
  • roughness of the skin denotes the presence of bumps. More specifically, the use of the combination of at least one glycol and of at least one tightening polymer makes it possible, due to its tightening effect, to reduce the roughness of the skin, by tightening the latter so that the bumps are smoothed and that the skin is less grainy.
  • the tightening effect on the skin obtained by the use of the combination of at least one specific filler and of at least one specific tightening polymer is an immediate effect, that is to say an effect which appears in less than two hours.
  • the tightening effect on the skin obtained by the use of the combination of at least one specific filler and of at least one specific tightening polymer is a persistent effect, which endures over time, preferably for at least 24 hours.
  • the invention essentially concerns the wrinkles and fine lines, the slackening of the cutaneous and subcutaneous tissues and the radiance of the skin.
  • the slackening of the cutaneous and subcutaneous tissues is reflected by a lifeless skin texture, a slackening of the skin microrelief, a decreased skin firmness and an overall flaccid skin.
  • Tightening effect is used to describe the mechanical smoothing effect which will be capable of immediately reducing, indeed even bringing about the disappearance of, wrinkles and fine lines.
  • This tightening effect is associated with the occurrence of two joint phenomena: the development of mechanical stresses during the drying of the composition and the formation of a cohesive and adhesive deposit making it possible to maintain these stresses over the treated area.
  • the tightening effect is measured on a slackened skin, exhibiting its natural strength, and not after a mechanical strain applied to the skin.
  • starting materials having tightening effects in order to treat wrinkles and fine lines.
  • These starting materials are in particular polymers, of natural or synthetic origin, latexes, inorganic particles or, recently, waxes.
  • the tightening effect is to be distinguished from the effect obtained with anti-ageing agents, which also act on wrinkles but not immediately, by removing the dead cells from the skin and by stimulating the cell renewal process.
  • the tightening effect is also to be distinguished from a stiffening effect, related to an increase in the modulus of stiffness of the stratum comeum, which is entirely different from a decrease in surface area of the said stratum comeum.
  • the present invention is more particularly concerned with the use of the combination of at least one specific filler and of at least one specific tightening polymer in the formulation of cosmetic compositions having a tightening effect.
  • the polymers having a tightening effect have a tendency to experience a loss in their effectiveness when they are formulated with other compounds, in particular when they are formulated in the form of emulsions.
  • the present invention is targeted specifically at responding to at least one of these needs and preferably to all of these needs.
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures and at least one tightening polymer chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal micro crystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from xanthans, pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, even better, chosen from pe
  • compositions having a tightening effect on the skin comprising water-soluble film-forming polymers, a bimodal copolymer and biological polymers, including non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, in a role of plasticizer of film- forming polymers.
  • composition comprising at least one filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures and at least one tightening polymer chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures made it possible to provide the skin with an enhanced or amplified tightening effect, with respect to one and the same composition devoid of fillers.
  • filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures and at least one tightening polymer chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide poly
  • such a combination of compounds makes it possible to enhance the mechanical properties of the film formed by the tightening polymer.
  • the fillers confer on the polymer an extra tightness performance, in addition to known visual effects.
  • compositions according to the invention exhibit a tightening effect at least equivalent to, if not greater than, the tightening effect of the tightening polymer alone.
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the combination of at least one filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures and of at least one tightening polymer chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal micro crystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from xanthans, pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, even better, chosen from pec
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of at least one filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures as agent for amplifying the tightening effect on the skin of at least one tightening polymer chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from xanthans, pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, preferentially chosen
  • the invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion, preferably a cosmetic one, having a tightening and/or smoothing effect on the skin, comprising at least one filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures and at least one tightening polymer chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal micro crystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures, preferentially chosen from xanthans, pectins, alginates, galactomannans
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one tightening polymer.
  • tightening polymer is understood to mean, according to the invention, a polymer capable of having a tightening effect, that is to say which is able to tighten the skin and, by this tightening effect, to smooth the skin and to immediately bring about a reduction, indeed even the disappearance, of the wrinkles and fine lines.
  • a tightening polymer suitable according to the invention is a polymer capable of providing the composition comprising it with a percentage of internal stresses (ISs) of greater than or equal to 40%.
  • the tightening polymer is present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably in a content of between 1.0% and 20.0% by weight, better still in a content of between 1.5% and 15.0% by weight, even better still in a content of between 2.0% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the tightening polymers particularly suitable according to the invention are chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal micro crystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures.
  • tightening polymers are chosen from xanthans, pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures.
  • tightening polymers are chosen from pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses and their mixtures.
  • tightening polymers are chosen from galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses and their mixtures.
  • the tightening polymers according to the invention can be employed alone or in combination with other tightening polymers known to a person skilled in the art, which will be described as "additional tightening polymers" in the continuation of the present description.
  • additional tightening polymers in the continuation of the present description.
  • the presence of an additional tightening polymer should not prejudice the technical effect provided in the context of the present invention.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharide as tightening polymer.
  • a polysaccharide is a polymer constituted of several monosaccharides bonded together via glycoside bonds. When all the monosaccharides of the polysaccharide are identical, the term “homopolysaccharides” is used. When the polysaccharide comprises at least two different monosaccharides, the term “heteropolysaccharides” is used.
  • the polysaccharides can be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the polysaccharides are polysaccharides of natural origin.
  • non-cellulose polysaccharide is understood to mean a polysaccharide which does not comprise a "cellulose” unit in its chain.
  • non-amylaceous is understood to mean a polysaccharide other than the starches and their derivatives.
  • the tightening polymer is chosen from non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides
  • the polymer is present in the composition in a content of between 1.5% and 15.0% by weight, better still between 2.0% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharide used as tightening polymer according to the invention is a pectin, a carrageenan, a galactomannan, a xanthan or an alginate.
  • the tightening polymer according to the invention is a pectin.
  • Pectins are heteropolysaccharides which are provided in the form of linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid joined in 1-4 fashion by a glycoside bond. They are composed of different associated polysaccharides: homogalacturonans, xylogalacturonans, rhamnogalacturonans, arabinans, galactans and arabinogalactans. Furthermore, the carboxyl functional groups present in the 6 position of galacturonic acids can be esterified to different degrees by methyl groups.
  • pectin or pectins which can be used according to the invention can be extracted from different plants, among which appear mainly fruits, such as apples (pulp and skin) and citrus fruits, in particular lemon, and also sunflower and beet.
  • the pectin is an apple pectin, such as, for example, the pectin sold by Herbstreith & Fox under the trade name Pectin Classic AU 201 USP.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a carrageenan as tightening polymer.
  • Carrageenans are polysaccharides extracted from algae which are used in the food sector as gelling agents. They are in particular sulfated polysaccharides which constitute the cell walls of various red algae, from which they can be obtained.
  • Mention may be made, among these red algae, in a non-limiting way, of Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Iridaea cordata.
  • Carrageenans comprise long galactan chains, made up of disaccharide units.
  • Each sugar unit can be sulfated one or more times in the 2, 3, 4 or 6 position.
  • Methyl and pyruvic acid groups and also other sugar units grafted to the base structures described above can also be found.
  • Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies according to their solubility in KC1, then according to the number and the position of the sulfate groups and the presence of 3',6'-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues.
  • carrageenans There are at least approximately fifteen carrageenans listed, the structure of which depends on the alga of origin and on the extraction method.
  • the carrageenans which can be used can in particular be chosen from the carrageenans of m, k, v, i, l and Q type and their mixtures, in all proportions. Use may in particular be made of the carrageenans of l form, of k form or of i form, or their mixtures.
  • Carrageenans particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention comprise predominantly l forms or are exclusively in the l form.
  • the term "predominantly” is understood to mean that the percentage of chains of this type in the composition of the product is greater than or equal to 50%, it being possible for this proportion to be greater than or equal to 80% in some embodiments.
  • the carrageenans according to the invention are carrageenans resulting from Chondrus crispus ou Kappaphycus alvarezii.
  • the carrageenans result from Chondrus crispus.
  • the molecular weight of the carrageenans of use for the present invention can be between 300 and 100 x 10 6 Daltons. Their molecular weight can preferably be between 10 x 10 3 Daltons and 10 x 10 6 Daltons.
  • Carrageenans which are particularly suitable according to the invention can in particular be extracted from Chondrus crispus, such as those sold by Cargill.
  • a carrageenan according to the invention can be the product Satiagum UPC 410, sold by Cargill.
  • carrageenans suitable according to the invention are the products AEC Carrageenan Gel and AEC Carrageenan Powder, which are sold by A&E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics), the products Gelcarin GP379, Gelcarin GP812, Gelcarin GP911, SeaSpen PF, Viscarin GP109, Viscarin GP209 and Viscarin GP328, which are sold by FMC Corporation, and the products Genugel Carrageenan and Genuvisco Carrageenan, which are sold by CP Kelco.
  • the polymer can be present in the composition in a content of between 1.0% and 20.0% by weight and better still between 1.5% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a galactomannan or one of its derivatives as tightening polymer.
  • Galactomannans are hydrophilic macromolecules of natural and plant origin constituted of a main chain of b( 1 -4)-l inked D-mannopyranose units carrying side branches constituted of a single D-galactopyranose unit a(l-6)-linked to the main chain.
  • the different galactomannans differ in the proportion of a-D-galactopyranose units present in the polymer.
  • the mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is of the order of 2 for guar gum and of 4 for locust bean gum, which means that the guar molecule has, on average, twice as many branches. However, within one and the same sample, this ratio can vary according to the fractions.
  • the knowledge of the M/G ratio constitutes one of the means of characterizing the sample, although it does not inform on the statistical distribution of the galactosyl residues on the main chain.
  • the galactomannan derivatives suitable according to the invention are in particular konjac gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum modified by sodium methylcarboxylate groups, and guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride .
  • Galactomannans having a tightening effect suitable according to the invention are in particular those sold under the name Activsoft C-13 by Innospec Performance Chemicals, the product Armocare G-l 14, sold by AkzoNobel Global Personal Care, and the products Jaguar C-13S, Jaguar Excel and Mackemium C13S, sold by Rhodia Inc.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a xanthan as tightening polymer.
  • Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on the industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris.
  • Its structure is constituted of a main chain of b( 1,4)- linked b-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose.
  • One glucose molecule in two carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an a-D-mannose, of a b-D-glucuronic acid and of a terminal b-D-mannose.
  • the internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on the 6 carbon.
  • About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between the 4 and 6 carbons.
  • the charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to pH 1).
  • the content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification stages. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na + , K + or Ca 2+ ions (Satia, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.
  • Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000.
  • Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the Rhodicare names by Rhodia Chimie, under the SatiaxaneTM name by Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the NovaxanTM name by ADM and under the Kelzan® and Keltrol® names by CP-Kelco.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises an alginate as tightening polymer.
  • alginate is understood to mean derivatives of alginic acid (conjugate base, salts and esters). This is because alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts with alkali metals, such as sodium, potassium or lithium, lower amine cations and substituted ammoniums, such as methylamine or ethanolamine.
  • Alginates are polysaccharides obtained from a family of brown algae, Laminaria species or Fucus species.
  • the alginate is formed of two monomers linked in b-1-4 fashion, namely mannuronate or mannuronic acid, some of which are acetylated, and guluronate or guluronic acid.
  • the proportion and the distribution of these two monomers are determining for a broad range of the physical and chemical properties of the alginate. Its chemical composition varies according to the various species of algae, the different parts of the same plant and is subject to seasonal changes.
  • the compounds based on alginic acid generally exhibit an average molecular weight of between 10 000 and 1 000 000, preferably between 15 000 and 500 000 and better still between 20 000 and 250 000.
  • the alginate can be a sodium or potassium alginate.
  • Alginates having a tightening effect suitable according to the invention are in particular those sold under the Cellosan name by Vevy Europe SpA, the product Emacol SR- 1000, sold by Yoshida Legal Office, the product Hydragen 558 P, sold by BASF Corporation, and the product Protanal PH 6160, sold by FMC Corporation.
  • the non-amylaceous non cellulose polysaccharide used as tightening polymer according to the invention is a carrageenan.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a colloidal microcrystalline cellulose as tightening polymer.
  • Microcrystalline cellulose is a partially depolymerized purified cellulose which is generally obtained by the treatment of cellulose, preferably of a-cellulose, in the form of pulp resulting from fibrous plants, with an inorganic acid, in particular hydrochloric acid. This acid will selectively attack the ordered regions of the polymeric chain of the cellulose, so as to render the crystalline sites free and exposed.
  • the crystalline aggregates obtained form the microcrystalline cellulose.
  • colloidal microcrystalline cellulose is understood to mean the mixture of a microcrystalline cellulose as described above with a hydrocolloidal compound.
  • the microcrystalline cellulose is present in this mixture in a greater content than the content of hydrocolloidal compound.
  • the microcrystalline cellulose is preferably present in a content of greater than or equal to 50% by weight, better still in a content of greater than or equal to 60% by weight and even better still a content of greater than or equal to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the mixture.
  • the colloidal microcrystalline cellulose is obtained by reducing the size of the microcrystalline cellulose particles and by stabilizing these particles in order to prevent hard aggregates from being obtained.
  • the hydrocolloidal compound can be chosen from gums and soluble salts and in particular from alginates, agar, carrageenan, carboxymethylcellulose (or cellulose gum), acacia gums, gums arabic, ghatti gums, karaya gums, gums tragacanth, guar gums, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chlorides, xanthan gums, gellan gums and their mixtures.
  • hydrocolloidal compound is chosen from cellulose gums.
  • a colloidal microcrystalline cellulose suitable according to the invention generally exhibits a mean particle size of less than or equal to 10 pm, better still of less than or equal to 1 pm and even better still of between 100 nm and 1 pm.
  • colloidal microcrystalline celluloses which may be suitable according to the invention are in particular the products Avicel PC611®, Avicel PC591®, Avicel CL 611 NF® and Avicel PC815®, sold by FMC Corp.
  • the preferred colloidal micro crystalline celluloses according to the invention correspond to the INCI name "microcrystalline cellulose (and) cellulose gum”.
  • the tightening polymer is a colloidal microcrystalline cellulose
  • the polymer can be present in the composition in a content of between 2.0% and 20.0% by weight, better still between 3.0% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises an ethylene oxide polymer as tightening polymer.
  • the ethylene oxide polymers can be chosen in particular from polyethylene glycols, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty alcohol ethers of polyethylene glycol, alkyl- and acyl-alkoxylated derivatives and in particular of polyol, glycerol triesters of oxyalkylated and in particular oxyethylenated fatty acids, oxyethylenated fatty amide derivatives, oxyethylenated urethane derivatives modified by alkyl chains, and their mixtures.
  • the ethylene oxide polymers according to the invention are chosen from polyethylene glycols or PEGs.
  • polyethylene glycols which can be used in the composition of the invention are ethylene oxide poly condensates.
  • these polyethylene glycols have a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units of greater than 1000, better still of greater than 5000 and even better still of greater than 10 000.
  • the number of ethylene oxide units can range, for example, from 1000 to 500 000 and preferably from 5000 to 200 000. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the number of ethylene oxide units can range from 65 000 to 115 000.
  • PEG-2M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR N-10 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-5M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR N-80 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-7M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR N-750 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-9M such as the commercial product Alkox E-30G (Meisei Chemical Works, Ltd.);
  • PEG-14M such as the commercial products Polyox WSR-205 and Polyox WSR N-3000 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-20M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR- 1105 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-23M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR N-12K (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-25M such as the commercial product PEO-5P (Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd.); PEG-45M, such as the commercial product Polyox WSR N-60K (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-65M such as the commercial product Alkox E-100 (Meisei Chemical Works, Ltd.);
  • PEG-90M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR-301 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-l 15M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR Coagulant (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-160M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR-303 (The Dow Chemical Company);
  • PEG-180M such as the commercial product Polyox WSR-308 (The Dow Chemical Company),
  • the choice will be made of a polyethylene glycol having the INCI name PEG-90M (synonymous with PEG-90 000), such as the product sold under the trade name Polyox WSR-301 by Amerchol (The Dow Chemical Company).
  • the tightening polymer is an ethylene oxide polymer
  • the polymer can be present in the composition in a content of between 1.0% and 15.0% by weight, better still between 2.0% and 8.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler.
  • filler is understood to mean a substantially colourless compound which is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and which is insoluble in the various ingredients of the composition, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature greater than ambient temperature.
  • the fillers can be inorganic or organic.
  • the fillers can be particles of any shape, in particular platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic).
  • the fillers can be organic or non-organic fillers.
  • they are spherical, potatoid or lamellar fillers.
  • the fillers according to the invention are divided solids, that it is say in the powder form. These fillers generally exhibit a number-average size of between 4 and 20 pm.
  • the fillers according to the invention are chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures.
  • fillers are chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular polymethyl methacrylate powders, powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane which are coated with silicone resin, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1% and 30.0% by weight, better still in a content of between 0.2% and 10.0% by weight, even better still in a content of between 0.5% and 5.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the filler according to the invention is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers.
  • the filler according to the invention is a methyl methacrylate polymer powder or polymethyl methacrylate powder.
  • Polymethyl methacrylate powders are generally provided in the form of hollow or solid spherical particles which are white in colour, the number-average size of which is generally on the micrometre scale, in particular varies from 3 pm to 15 pm and generally varies from 3 pm to 10 pm.
  • polymethyl methacrylate particles by their density, the latter being capable of varying in particular as a function of the size of the spherical cavity of the said particles.
  • this density is assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:
  • the filler according to the invention is chosen from powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane which are coated with silicone resm.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane forming the filler is advantageously crosslinked and can be obtained by an addition-crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a condensation-crosslinking- dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin compound; or by a condensation-crosslinking reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopol
  • the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane is non-emulsifying.
  • non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder comprises at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin.
  • These powders generally exhibit a mean size of between 2 pm and 30 pm, better still between 10 pm and 20 pm.
  • Such powders of elastomers are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP- 102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by Shin-Etsu and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer. Silicone resin powders
  • the filler according to the invention is chosen from silicone resin powders.
  • silicone resins of:
  • silo xy silicates which can be trimethylsiloxy silicates of formula [(CH 3 ) 3 Si0] x (Si0 4/2 ) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80,
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group.
  • the resin powders which are particularly preferred according to the invention are the polymethylsilsesquioxanes resins.
  • These powders generally exhibit a mean size of between 2 pm and 50 pm, better still between 4 pm and 20 pm.
  • the filler according to the invention is chosen from powders ofN-acylated amino acids.
  • N-acylated amino acids can conventionally be prepared from proteins, which are hydrolysed in order to obtain a mixture of amino acids. The latter are then N-acylated by means of acylating agents and then, if appropriate, the carboxyl functional groups of the N-acylated amino acids are salified.
  • the N-acylated amino acids according to the invention can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. In particular, the acyl group is a lauroyl group.
  • the amino acid can be chosen from the different amino acids available in hydrolysed proteins and in particular lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the amino acid is a lysine.
  • the N-acylated amino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder.
  • These powders generally exhibit a mean size of between 2 pm and 50 pm, better still between 4 pm and 20 pm.
  • Powders of N-acylated amino acids suitable according to the invention are available under the Amihope LL name and are sold by Ajinomoto.
  • the filler according to the invention is chosen from modified starches, in particular esterified starches.
  • modified starches according to the invention are esterified starch salts.
  • modified starches according to the invention are starch salts esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride.
  • modified starches in accordance with the invention are preferably in the form of powders. These powders generally exhibit a mean size of between 2 pm and 30 pm, better still between 10 pm and 20 pm.
  • Modified starches suitable according to the invention are sold in particular under the trade name Dry Flo Plus or Dry Flo Pure by National Starch; Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, sold in particular under the trade name Capsul by National Starch; Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, sold under the trade name Skin Flow-C by Midwest Grain Products.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a polyamide powder as tightening polymer.
  • polyamide powders suitable according to the invention are Nylon- 12 particles.
  • nylon powders of the nylon powder sold under the name Orgasol 2002 by Arkema or under the name Tegolon 12-20 L by Evonik Goldschmidt.
  • the tightening polymer is a polyamide powder
  • the polymer is present in the composition in a content of between 0.1% and 15.0% by weight, better still between 0.5% and 10.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • At least one filler chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, modified starches, polyamide powders and their mixtures and at least one tightening polymer chosen from non- amylaceous non-cellulose polysaccharides, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures makes it possible to preserve, indeed even to enhance and/or amplifier, the tightening effect of the polymer on the skin.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures and a tightening polymer chosen from xanthans, pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses, ethylene oxide polymers and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures and a tightening polymer chosen from pectins, alginates, galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures and a tightening polymer chosen from galactomannans, carrageenans, colloidal microcrystalline celluloses and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is a powder of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine.
  • the tightening polymer is a galactomannan
  • the filler is a modified starch, in particular an esterified starch.
  • the tightening polymer is a galactomannan
  • the filler is a polyamide powder and in particular Nylon- 12 particles.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders, in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • a specific embodiment of the invention pertains to the cosmetic use of a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one powder of N-acylated amino acid, in particular lauroyl lysine and at least one galactomannan for providing the skin on which it is applied with a tightening effect, the said at least one galactomannan being present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • a further specific embodiment of the invention pertains to the cosmetic use of a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one modified starch in particular an esterified starch and at least one galactomannan for providing the skin on which it is applied with a tightening effect, the said at least galactomannan being present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • An even further specific embodiment of the invention pertains to the cosmetic use of a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one polyamide powder, in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures and at least one galactomannan for providing the skin on which it is applied with a tightening effect, the said at least one tightening polymer being present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, silicone resin powders, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, and their mixtures.
  • the filler is chosen from powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular powders of methyl methacrylate polymers, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders which are coated with silicone resin, powders of N-acylated amino acids, in particular lauroyl lysine, modified starches, in particular esterified starches, polyamide powders and in particular Nylon- 12 particles, and their mixtures.
  • a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one aqueous phase.
  • the content of aqueous phase in the composition can be between 30.0% and 95.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the said compositions can contain water and generally other water-soluble or water-miscible solvents.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents can comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example Ci-C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the water used can be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water, such as, for example: water from Vittel, waters from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche-Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien- les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux-Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains and water from Avene.
  • the aqueous phase can also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water containing trace elements, such as zinc, copper, magnesium, and the like,
  • the aqueous phase can contain, according to the nature of the emulsion, one or more emulsifying surface-active agents.
  • emulsifying surface-active agents A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and the content of the surfactants as a function of the formulation form desired.
  • a composition according to the invention can contain at least one water- immiscible organic phase known as fatty phase.
  • This phase generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which render the said phase water-immiscible.
  • the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and/or one non-volatile oil and optionally at least one structuring agent.
  • oil is understood to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.05 x 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil can be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil is understood to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil is understood to mean an oil which remains on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil can be chosen from any physiologically acceptable oil and especially cosmetically acceptable oil, in particular mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils; especially volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and their mixtures.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether or carboxyl functional groups.
  • the oil exhibits a viscosity of 0.5 to 100 000 mPa.s, preferably of 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably of 100 to 300 000 mPa.s.
  • hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular CVCir, isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched CVCV, esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures; and
  • volatile silicones such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 c 10 6 m 2 /s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.
  • volatile silicone oils which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.
  • non-volatile oil which can be used according to the invention, of:
  • - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 24 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkinseed oil, cucumber oil, blackcurrant oil, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, or jojoba oil;
  • liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, or squalane;
  • esters in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R'COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10, such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or Ci 2 to Ci 5 alkyl benzoate;
  • R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10, such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or Ci 2 to Ci 5 alkyl benzoate;
  • - fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which comprise a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol;
  • silicone oils such as non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones) or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) (PDMSs); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, and
  • the fatty phase can contain, according to the nature of the emulsion, one or more emulsifying surface-active agents.
  • emulsifying surface-active agents A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and the content of the surfactants as a function of the formulation form desired.
  • the fatty phase according to the invention can additionally comprise lipophilic compounds, which are solid or pasty at ambient temperature and which can act as structuring agents, chosen in particular from waxes and pasty fatty substances.
  • waxes is understood to mean, according to the invention, lipophilic compounds which are solid and deformable or non-deformable at ambient temperature (25°C), which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change of state and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to l20°C.
  • Mention may in particular be made, as examples, of hydrocarbon waxes, such as natural or synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, rice bran wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline waxes, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins, the melting point of which is less than 40°C, a-olefm oligomers, ethylene/propylene copolymers, polyethylene waxes (preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes or sunflower seed wax. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as natural or synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, rice bran wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline waxes, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins, the melting point of which is less than 40°C, a-olefm oligomers, ethylene/propy
  • pasty fatty substance is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound exhibiting a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the pasty fatty substances also comprise the compounds commonly known as "butters”.
  • the pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from lanolin and its derivatives, polyol ethers chosen from polyalkylene glycol pentaerythrityl ethers, fatty alcohol ethers of sugars, and their mixtures, polyethylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythrityl ether comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil mixture, in which mixture the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil, polymeric or
  • Suitable in particular according to the invention are the pasty fatty substances chosen from mango butter, such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed oil, for example the mixture sold under the Akogel® reference by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), shea butter, in particular that for which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the Sheasoft® reference by AarhusKarlshamn, cocoa butter, in particular that which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by Dutch Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name Beurre de Cacao NCB-HD703-758 by Barry Callebaut, shorea butter, in particular that which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by Stea
  • composition according to the invention can furthermore contain one or more additional cosmetic compounds, such as active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, fragrances, colourants, structuring agents, natural extracts, lightening agents, vitamins, urea, caffeine, depigmenting agents, b-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, a-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, emollients and humectants, such as ethoxylated methyl glucosides and ethoxylated acylated methyl glucosides, organic and inorganic screening agents, or their mixtures.
  • additional cosmetic compounds such as active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, fragrances, colourants, structuring agents, natural extracts, lightening agents, vitamins, urea, caffeine, depigmenting agents, b-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, a-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid, emollients
  • anti-ageing active principles in particular antiwrinkle active principles which act by a tightening effect, agents for combating free radicals or also compounds which act with regard to the firmness of the skin by inhibition of elastase or increase in the synthesis of collagen.
  • hydroxy acids lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid and its derivatives
  • vitamin A retinol
  • sugars and their derivatives sugars and their derivatives
  • proteins proteins
  • ceramides essential
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one glycol, in particular chosen from butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and their mixtures.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises a content of glycerol of less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, better still of less than or equal to 2.0% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • additives can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 60.0% of the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, of a stable mixture of two phases, of an emulsion or of a serum, preferably in the form of an oil-in water emulsion or of a bigel.
  • a composition according to the invention can be a composition for making up and/or for caring for keratinous substances.
  • a composition according to the invention is a care composition, especially a composition for caring for the skin.
  • compositions can be prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
  • the percentages are percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated. The percentages are thus expressed by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions which are readily determined by a person skilled in the art.
  • the solutions or mixtures comprising tightening polymers are deposited on a nitrile substrate constitued of 12 test specimens.
  • a volume of 26 m ⁇ of solution comprising a given amount of active material is applied to each of the test specimens, 4 tests being carried out per polymer.
  • the measurements are carried out either after 3 hours or after 24 hours of drying after the final deposition, at 25°C and 45% relative humidity.
  • the tightening effect is determined from the measurement by image analysis of the surface of the test specimen before and after deposition of the polymer solution.
  • the percentage of internal stresses ISs (tightening effect) is determined in the following way:
  • composition exhibits a satisfactory tightening effect when the percentage of internal stresses is greater than or equal to 20%.
  • increase in the tightening effect is understood to mean an increase in the value of the percentage of internal stresses by at least 10% and better still by at least 20%.
  • compositions were prepared from the proportions by weight described in detail in the tables below and according to the following preparation protocol.
  • compositions according to the invention are prepared by dispersion under cold conditions.
  • compositions 1 to 5 are provided.
  • compositions (according to the invention or comparative) comprise 3.5% of carrageenan:
  • compositions comprising a tightening polymer and a filler in accordance with the invention exhibit a greater tightening effect than a composition comprising a tightening polymer according to the invention but devoid of fillers ( composition 1 ).
  • the combination of active principles according to the invention thus makes it possible to enhance the tightening effect of the composition.
  • compositions comprise 7.0% of colloidal microcrystalline cellulose:
  • compositions comprising a tightening polymer and a filler in accordance with the invention exhibit a greater tightening effect than a composition comprising a tightening polymer according to the invention but devoid of fillers ( composition 6).
  • the combination of active principles according to the invention thus makes it possible to enhance the tightening effect of the composition.
  • compositions 12 to 14 are Compositions 12 to 14
  • compositions comprise 3.0% of PEG-90M:
  • compositions comprising a tightening polymer and a filler in accordance with the invention exhibit a greater tightening effect than a composition comprising a tightening polymer according to the invention but devoid of fillers ( composition 12).
  • composition 12 devoid of fillers
  • the cosmetic composition retains the measurable and detected tightening effects of carrageenan while having the appearance and the sensory characteristics of a face care cream.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation cosmétique d'une composition comprenant au moins une charge choisie parmi des poudres de copolymères acryliques, des poudres d'organopolysiloxane élastomère réticulé qui sont enrobées de résine de silicone, des poudres de résine de silicone, des poudres d'acides aminés N-acylés, des amidons modifiés, des poudres de polyamide et leurs mélanges et au moins un polymère tenseur choisi parmi des polysaccharides non cellulosiques non amylacés, des celluloses microcristallines colloïdales, des polymères d'oxyde d'éthylène et leurs mélanges, pour conférer à la peau sur laquelle elle est appliquée un effet tenseur, ledit au moins un polymère tenseur étant présent dans la composition en une teneur supérieure ou égale à 0,5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/EP2019/060789 2018-04-27 2019-04-26 Utilisation cosmétique d'une composition comprenant au moins une charge spécifique et au moins un polymère tenseur spécifique pour conférer à la peau un effet tenseur WO2019207131A1 (fr)

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FR1853750A FR3080537B1 (fr) 2018-04-27 2018-04-27 Utilisation cosmetique d'une composition comprenant au moins une charge et au moins un polymere tenseur particuliers pour procurer un effet tenseur a la peau
FR1853750 2018-04-27

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WO2019207131A1 true WO2019207131A1 (fr) 2019-10-31

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003017967A2 (fr) 2001-08-27 2003-03-06 Lvmh Recherche Composition cosmetique a effet tenseur de la peau
EP1516610A1 (fr) * 2003-09-17 2005-03-23 L'oreal Composition cosmétique contenant des particules colloidales de charge inorganique
FR2893503A1 (fr) * 2005-11-21 2007-05-25 Oreal Utilisation cosmetique d'agents tenseurs pour ameliorer l'homeostasie de la peau et/ou l'eclat du teint
US20080233075A1 (en) 2007-03-22 2008-09-25 Marina Sokolinsky Cosmetic composition for skin tightening
FR2953398A1 (fr) * 2009-12-03 2011-06-10 Oreal Utilisation d'un polymere saccharidique riche en fucose, glucose et acide glucuronique comme agent tenseur de la peau

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003017967A2 (fr) 2001-08-27 2003-03-06 Lvmh Recherche Composition cosmetique a effet tenseur de la peau
EP1516610A1 (fr) * 2003-09-17 2005-03-23 L'oreal Composition cosmétique contenant des particules colloidales de charge inorganique
FR2893503A1 (fr) * 2005-11-21 2007-05-25 Oreal Utilisation cosmetique d'agents tenseurs pour ameliorer l'homeostasie de la peau et/ou l'eclat du teint
US20080233075A1 (en) 2007-03-22 2008-09-25 Marina Sokolinsky Cosmetic composition for skin tightening
FR2953398A1 (fr) * 2009-12-03 2011-06-10 Oreal Utilisation d'un polymere saccharidique riche en fucose, glucose et acide glucuronique comme agent tenseur de la peau

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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 1 January 2014 (2014-01-01), "Advanced Multi-Protection Line/Wrinkle", XP002787343, Database accession no. 2231823 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 1 July 2014 (2014-07-01), "Plumping Radiance Cream", XP002787341, Database accession no. 2544275 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 1 March 2018 (2018-03-01), "Visible Aging Repair Firming Rosy Cream", XP002787342, Database accession no. 5510509 *

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FR3080537B1 (fr) 2020-11-06

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