WO2019149509A1 - Complexe de principes actifs pour préparations cosmétiques - Google Patents

Complexe de principes actifs pour préparations cosmétiques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019149509A1
WO2019149509A1 PCT/EP2019/050764 EP2019050764W WO2019149509A1 WO 2019149509 A1 WO2019149509 A1 WO 2019149509A1 EP 2019050764 W EP2019050764 W EP 2019050764W WO 2019149509 A1 WO2019149509 A1 WO 2019149509A1
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weight
cosmetic preparation
proportion
cosmetic
preparation according
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PCT/EP2019/050764
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Daniel Stangl
Bernhard DUDLER
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La Prairie Group Ag
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Publication of WO2019149509A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019149509A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/606—Nucleosides; Nucleotides; Nucleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9722—Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an active ingredient complex for a cosmetic preparation.
  • Preparations containing one or more retinoids, in particular retinol are a potential drug that has the potential to refine skin tone by stimulating collagen.
  • EP 2633887 A1 discloses a drug combination of at least one azole, tocopherol, glycyrrhizic acid, hyaluronic acid and a polyol, which according to the description enables a visible anti-wrinkle action.
  • WO2010049457 discloses protein hydrolysates containing cosmetic preparations which can be used in wrinkle treatment. This variety of active ingredients known in the art must not obscure the fact that there is still a great need for
  • Active ingredients or complexes of active ingredients for cosmetic preparations which are particularly suitable in terms of anti-wrinkle treatment.
  • an object of the present invention to provide a cosmetic preparation with an active ingredient complex which, when applied to the skin, reduces the depth of wrinkles. Furthermore, it is a further object, a cosmetic preparation
  • the skin elasticity should be increased.
  • An object of the present invention is a cosmetic
  • the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention for tightening the human skin and / or for reducing the wrinkle depth of the human skin.
  • the invention also provides an active complex comprising a) one or more tetrapeptides, b) sodium DNA,
  • normal conditions means 20 ° C, 1013 hPa and a relative
  • the cosmetic preparation contains one or more tetrapeptides.
  • tetrapeptides are known to the person skilled in the art under the INCI name Tetrapeptide-X, where the X stands for an integer number which can assume the values from 1 to 30.
  • Tetrapeptides are peptides based on four amino acids.
  • the tetrapeptides according to the invention are preferred.
  • Tetrapeptides selected containing the amino acids glycine, histidine and lysines. Such a tetrapeptide is known to those skilled in the INCI name Tetrapeptide-3. The use of tetrapeptide-3 as tetrapeptide is accordingly preferred. It is particularly preferred for the tetrapeptide-3 to have the sequence glycine-glycine-histidine-lysines. Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the proportion of
  • Tetrapeptides preferably the proportion of tetrapeptide-3 and particularly preferably the proportion of tetrapeptide-3, which has the sequence glycine - glycine - histidine - lysines, is from 0.0001 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, wherein a proportion of 0.001 wt .-% to 0.05 wt .-% is particularly preferred and the information relates to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparation additionally contains a sodium salt of deoxyribonucleic acid.
  • Deoxyribonucleic acid is designated as sodium DNA (CAS: 9007-49-2) according to the INCI Lexicon.
  • Advantageously used sodium DNA is designated as sodium DNA (CAS: 9007-49-2) according to the INCI Lexicon.
  • the sodium salt of deoxyribonucleic acid is advantageously thereby
  • Such sodium salts of deoxyribonucleic acid according to the invention can be obtained, inter alia, under the commercial product Kalinat AW Powder from Kalichem.
  • the proportion of the sodium salt of deoxyribonucleic acid, ie the sodium DNA, in the cosmetic preparation is preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05% by weight to 0.4% by weight .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparation is characterized in that it contains pullulan.
  • Pullulan is a natural, water-soluble linear polysaccharide composed of maltotriose monomers. Pullulan is known to have film-forming properties on the skin. Pullulan can be obtained commercially, inter alia, from the company Hayashibara.
  • the proportion of pullulan in the cosmetic preparation is advantageously from 0.1 wt .-% to 5 wt .-% and preferably from 0.3 wt .-% to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract can be purchased commercially under the trade name OKINACEA from Gelyma.
  • the proportion of Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract in the cosmetic preparation based on the total weight of the preparation, from 0.05 wt .-% to 2 wt .-%, wherein a proportion of 0.1 wt .-% to 0.8 % By weight is preferred.
  • the cosmetic preparation contains one or more ceramides.
  • Ceramides refer to a subgroup of sphingolipids which belongs to the lipids. They consist of a sphingosine molecule bound to a fatty acid through an amide bond. It is preferred if the ceramides known under the INCI name ceramides 3 is used as ceramides. Ceramide 3 is known by the chemical name N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine.
  • HydroCeramide50S is 45 wt .-%, based on the
  • the proportion of the ceramides, in particular of ceramides 3, from 0.02 wt .-% to 1 wt .-% and preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • the cosmetic preparation additionally contains one or more mono- and / or polymers of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid.
  • a polymer of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid has a sequence of at least two nucleotides.
  • nucleoside is the compound of a nucleobase (base) with a simple sugar, a pentose. If their 2'-residue is a hydroxy group, there is a ribose, in a hydrogen radical, however, a deoxyribose. In one nucleotide, the 5'-OH group of the pentose of a nucleoside is esterified with a phosphate moiety.
  • the mono- and / or polymers of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid are extracted from the yeast Saccharomices cerevisiae.
  • Such a commercial product according to the invention is under the
  • the proportion of the added mono- and / or polymers of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid from 0.001 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, and preferably from 0.002 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the
  • the cosmetic preparation based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation, a) 0.0001 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 wt .-% to 0.05 wt. % Tetrapeptide-3,
  • Ceramides-3, and f) additionally contains from 0.001 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.002 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-% of one or more mono- and / or polymers of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid. Furthermore, it is particularly within this embodiment
  • f) additionally contains 0.002 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-% one or more mono- and / or polymers of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid.
  • f) additionally contains one or more mono- and / or polymers of the nucleotides of the ribonucleic acid, wherein
  • the tetrapeptide-3 has the sequence glycine-glycine-histidine-lysines, and
  • the sodium DNA has an average molecular weight in the range of 200 kDa to 600 kDa.
  • the cosmetic preparation based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation,
  • the tetrapeptide-3 has the sequence glycine-glycine-histidine-lysines, and
  • the sodium DNA has an average molecular weight in the range of 200 kDa to 600 kDa.
  • tetrapeptide-3 contains, where the tetrapeptide-3 has the sequence glycine-glycine-histidine-lysines, and
  • the sodium DNA has an average molecular weight in the range of 200 kDa to 600 kDa.
  • cosmetic preparation according to the invention could be surprisingly further increased if the preparation additionally contains an extract of fish eggs. It has been found that advantageous according to the invention
  • the caviar extract is obtained from fish eggs of the Acipenser transmontanus (white sturgeon), the Acipenser baieri (Siberian sturgeon) and / or the Acipenser gueldenstaedtii ( Russian sturgeon).
  • the white sturgeon is according to the IUCN
  • Caviar extracts according to the invention can be obtained commercially.
  • Fish extract in particular the proportion of the invention preferred Caviar Extracts, from 0.0001 wt .-% to 2 wt .-%, and preferably from 0.0003 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation is ,
  • the cosmetic preparation based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation,
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can be used in the usual cosmetic galenical preparation forms, preferably as gel, O / W emulsion, W / O emulsion, W / O / W emulsion, O / W / O emulsion,
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may be present, preferably as emulsion, ointment, foundation, toner, aqueous solution, cream, gel, powder, mask, foam preparation and aerosol preparation.
  • Facial skin are usually formulated as emulsions.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only limitedly miscible, one of the two liquids being dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. With the naked eye, an emulsion appears as homogeneous.
  • both liquids are water and oil, and the oil is present as finely distributed droplets in the water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion).
  • oil-in-water emulsion O / W emulsion
  • water-in-oil emulsion W / O emulsion
  • Emulsifiers serve to stabilize emulsions. Stabilization in this context means that the phase separation of the emulsion is prevented or delayed. Accordingly, stable emulsions can be produced by using appropriately selected emulsifier systems.
  • Emulsifiers are molecules with a polar, hydrophilic
  • Structural element and a nonpolar, lipophilic structural element can be defined by the HLB value (dimensionless number between 0 and 20) which indicates whether a preferred water or oil solubility is present.
  • HLB value dimensionless number between 0 and 20
  • Water in oil Emulsifiers usually have an HLB value in the range of 3 to 8. Accordingly, W / O emulsifiers promote stabilization of an aqueous phase suspended in an oil phase.
  • Oil-in-water emulsifiers (O / W emulsifiers) have an HLB value greater than 8 to 18. These promote the stabilization of an oil phase which is suspended in an aqueous phase.
  • the cosmetic preparation is present as an oil-in-water emulsion, it is advantageous if the cosmetic preparation contains at least one O / W emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from greater than 8 to 18.
  • O / W emulsifiers are, for example, the following list:
  • Polyethylene glycol 400
  • Monotalate Polyoxyethylene glycol (7)
  • Monostearate Polyoxyethylene glycol (8)
  • Mono-oleate Polyoxyethylene (20)
  • sorbitan trioleate Polyoxyethylene (6) tridecyl alcohol
  • such an O / W emulsion may advantageously also comprise W / O emulsifiers, the ratio of the O / W emulsifiers to the W / O emulsifiers, taking into account the respective HLB values, to be selected such that an O / W emulsion sets.
  • a known mixture of O / W emulsifiers and W / O emulsifiers is the commercial product Arlacel 170 from Croda, containing glyceryl stearates and PEG-100 stearates, wherein the ratio of the two substances is chosen so that a total HLB of about 11 results.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention additionally advantageously contains oils selected from the group of the lecithins and the
  • Fatty acid triglycerides namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil,
  • synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils such as e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil,
  • cosmetic preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain oils which are selected from the group of
  • Vaseline petrolatum
  • paraffin oil especially paraffin oil, squalane and squalene
  • Polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes are the preferred substances.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention may advantageously contain fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • fat and / or wax components from the group of vegetable waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes.
  • candelilla wax carnauba wax, Japan wax, Esparto wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax,
  • fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those available under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), and Syncrowax AW 1 C (C18-36 fatty acid) from CRODA GmbH, as well as
  • triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C20-40 alkyl stearate, C20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate.
  • the cosmetic preparation contains cyclic, branched and / or linear silicones.
  • the group of cyclic, branched and / or linear silicones are also referred to in the present disclosure as "silicone oils.”
  • Linear silicone oils are described by the INCI name Dimethicone and have a structure according to the formula (I) while branched silicone oils of the formula (II) can be described, wherein R 1 and R 2 are independently a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 3 to 30
  • Cyclic silicones are known by the INCI name Cyclomethicone. It is advantageous if the proportion by weight of the silicone oils in the cosmetic preparation 3 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, based on the
  • Total weight of the cosmetic preparation is.
  • the cosmetic preparation is advantageous thereby
  • the total proportion of the oil phase in the O / W emulsion is from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 25% by weight and particularly preferably from 8% by weight to 22% by weight on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.
  • the silicone oils also belong to the oil phase of the cosmetic preparation.
  • emulsifiers do not belong to the oil phase of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention.
  • the total amount of water in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is from 50% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation ,
  • the cosmetic preparation contains one or more rheology modifiers.
  • Rheology modifiers are selected from the group of the following INCI
  • Carbomer (carbopols types 980, 981, 2984, 5984 from the Fa.
  • Lubrizol Lubrizol
  • Acrylates copolymer e.g., Carbopol® Aqua SF-1 polymer from Lubrizol
  • acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer e.g.
  • Pemulen TR 1 Pemulen TR 2
  • Carbopol 1328 from the company Lubrizol
  • hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate A / P copolymer (eg Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer (eg Carbopol® Aqua CC polymer from the company Lubrizol);
  • Sodium polyacrylates e.g., Cosmedia
  • - starches for example tapioca starch.
  • the rheology modifiers are particularly preferably selected from the group of the substances known by the INCI name Carbomer, Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate,
  • the total proportion of these rheology modifiers in particular the total proportion of those mentioned above, is preferred
  • characterized rheology modifier 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic
  • Tapioca starch in a proportion of up to 3.5 wt .-%, based on the
  • the weight ratio of all inventive rheology modifiers contained to the oil phase contained is 1: 1 to 1: 30, preferably 1: 2 to 1:28, particularly preferably 1:20 to 1: 27.
  • inventive cosmetic preparations have a surprisingly advantageous creaminess and are not perceived as crumbly or too oily and too liquid by the consumer.
  • the cosmetic preparation according to the invention contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
  • the cosmetic preparation contains cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, it is advantageous according to the invention if the total proportion of these substances is from 0.5 to 5.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.
  • cosmetic preparation additionally one or more substances selected from the group of ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, propanediol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether,
  • the preparations according to the present invention preferably contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broad-spectrum filter substance.
  • Formulations although not necessary, may also be included or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances which may be present in the water phase and / or the oil phase.
  • the preparations according to the present invention may contain at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature.
  • UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are flomomenthyl salicylate (INCI:
  • Ethylhexyl salicylates and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p- Methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or others in
  • Water sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds especially oxides of titanium (T1O2), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe203), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (S1O2), manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (AI2O3 ), Cers (eg Ce203), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4).
  • the pigments can also be used advantageously in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. These predispersions can be beneficial
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), it being intended, for example, to form or retain a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character.
  • This surface treatment can consist in providing the pigments with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer by processes known per se.
  • Suitable surface coatings may also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.
  • Titanium dioxide particles are available from the following companies under the following trade names:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoylmethane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol ® 1789 and sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • Benzoxazole derivatives such as. B. 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3,5-triazine with the CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.
  • Hydroxybenzophenones e.g. B. 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydroxybenzoyl) - benzoeklahexylester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus in the company. BASF.
  • Triazine derivatives such as.
  • Methoxyphenyl triazine which is sold under the trade name
  • Tinosorb® S is available from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH; Diotylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V is; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [ anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150; 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .:
  • Benzotriazoles such as. B. 2,2'-methylene-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (INCI: Methylene bis-benztriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), which z. B. under the trade name Tinosorb® M at CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH is available.
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
  • Ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul® N 539 T.
  • Particularly advantageous cosmetic preparations according to the present invention which are characterized by a high or very high UV-A
  • Filter substance (s) also preferably further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethanderivate [for example, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and or phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any desired combination with one another.
  • Dibenzoylmethanderivate for example, the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane
  • the total amount of the filter substances is from the range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic Preparations - chosen to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations that protect the flare from the full range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • Preparation contains at least one further active ingredient for the cosmetic treatment and / or cosmetic prophylaxis of undesired flaut pigmentation.
  • the cosmetic preparations may further contain other cosmetic adjuncts, such as those commonly used in such
  • Preparations are used, for example, further bodying agents, film formers, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives, perfumes,
  • Foaming inhibitors dyes, other pigments which have a coloring effect, surface-active substances, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, anti-inflammatory substances, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins,
  • Insect repellents such as other alcohols, polyols,
  • Foam stabilizers organic solvents or electrolytes.
  • glycerol Containing 5% by weight of nucleotides of the RNA of the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae and 95% by weight of glycerol;
  • the preparation Inv. 1 and Inv. 2 are according to the invention, while the preparation Com. 1 is a comparative example not according to the invention.
  • the study was carried out over a period of 8 weeks, with the measurements described below being carried out after 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks, depending on the parameters examined.
  • the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles were first determined by examining photographs of the skin areas examined before and after treatment with the preparations Inv.1, Inv.2 and Com.1 using the PhotoGrammetrix® Image Analysis Software were.
  • PhotoGrammetrix ® indicates the found wrinkles as pixels. The more wrinkles are identified, the higher the pixel count (px).
  • the following table shows the measured values obtained and the associated reduction of the measured values in percentage deviation from the baseline measurement. The more negative the percent, the fewer wrinkles and fine lines were identified.
  • the normalized pixel counts for the three preparations studied are shown as a function of the duration of the study in FIG. In summary, it can be seen that when applying the inventive preparations Inv.1 and Inv.2 the number of identified pixels corresponding to wrinkled regions with wrinkles has been reduced.
  • the inventive combination causes a particularly effective wrinkle reduction after use.
  • Results are shown in Fig. 2.
  • the figures in pixels refer to the ones issued by PhotoGrammetrix® Image Analysis Software, which are a measure of skin tightening. The higher the pixel count (px), the firmer the skin is. Both the application of the invention
  • Preparation Inv.2 show an increased skin tightening, while the skin treated with the comparison preparation Com.1 is far less toned.
  • Preparation Inv.2 shows a marked reduction in the reddish appearance of the skin. It is thus obtained a less red, much more uniform and same color skin.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant un ou plusieurs tétrapeptides, de l'ADN sodique, du pullulane, de l'extrait de Caulerpa Lentillifera, un ou plusieurs céramides et, en plus, un ou plusieurs monomères et/ou polymères des nucléotides de l'acide ribonucléique.
PCT/EP2019/050764 2018-02-01 2019-01-14 Complexe de principes actifs pour préparations cosmétiques WO2019149509A1 (fr)

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CH00116/18A CH714167B1 (de) 2018-02-01 2018-02-01 Wirkstoffkomplex für kosmetische Zubereitungen.

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20230414485A1 (en) * 2020-06-16 2023-12-28 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic composition
WO2024080698A1 (fr) * 2022-10-11 2024-04-18 (주) 에이치엔에이파마켐 Composition de nanoparticules lipidiques comprenant de l'adn de sodium

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DE19943678A1 (de) 1999-09-13 2001-03-15 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus oberflächenaktiven Citronensäureestern und Einschlußverbindungen von Cyclodextrinen und Retinoiden sowie kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an solchen Gemischen
US20040120918A1 (en) * 2003-05-12 2004-06-24 Sederma S.A.S. Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of ceramides and polypeptides
US20060198800A1 (en) * 2003-08-14 2006-09-07 Natalie Dilallo Skin care compositions including hexapeptide complexes and methods of their manufacture
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WO2010049457A2 (fr) 2008-10-31 2010-05-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Combinaison de principes actifs pour le traitement des peaux matures
US20110189222A1 (en) * 2008-09-30 2011-08-04 Suhaila Mohamed Composition for wound healing
EP2633887A1 (fr) 2011-11-29 2013-09-04 Henkel AG&Co. KGAA Combinaison de principes actifs d'un nouveau type pour une action anti-plis efficace
US20130287714A1 (en) * 2010-11-12 2013-10-31 Sven Gohla Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing snow algae extract
US20160228352A1 (en) * 2012-10-15 2016-08-11 I Commercial Marine Biology Institute, LLC Marine extract compositions and methods of use
FR3036619A1 (fr) * 2015-05-27 2016-12-02 Soc De Courtage Et De Diffusion Codif Int Principe actif cosmetique comprenant une argile a structure feuilletee, des sels mineraux, des acides amines et/ou des peptides et au moins un lipide, et compositions le comprenant.

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DE19943678A1 (de) 1999-09-13 2001-03-15 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus oberflächenaktiven Citronensäureestern und Einschlußverbindungen von Cyclodextrinen und Retinoiden sowie kosmetische und dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einem Gehalt an solchen Gemischen
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US20060198800A1 (en) * 2003-08-14 2006-09-07 Natalie Dilallo Skin care compositions including hexapeptide complexes and methods of their manufacture
EP2005941A2 (fr) * 2007-06-01 2008-12-24 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Compositions rajeunissant les cellules
US20110189222A1 (en) * 2008-09-30 2011-08-04 Suhaila Mohamed Composition for wound healing
WO2010049457A2 (fr) 2008-10-31 2010-05-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Combinaison de principes actifs pour le traitement des peaux matures
US20130287714A1 (en) * 2010-11-12 2013-10-31 Sven Gohla Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing snow algae extract
EP2633887A1 (fr) 2011-11-29 2013-09-04 Henkel AG&Co. KGAA Combinaison de principes actifs d'un nouveau type pour une action anti-plis efficace
US20160228352A1 (en) * 2012-10-15 2016-08-11 I Commercial Marine Biology Institute, LLC Marine extract compositions and methods of use
FR3036619A1 (fr) * 2015-05-27 2016-12-02 Soc De Courtage Et De Diffusion Codif Int Principe actif cosmetique comprenant une argile a structure feuilletee, des sels mineraux, des acides amines et/ou des peptides et au moins un lipide, et compositions le comprenant.

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CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS, Columbus, Ohio, US; abstract no. 2725-22-6
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CHEMICAL ABSTRACTS, Columbus, Ohio, US; abstract no. 90457-82-2

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20230414485A1 (en) * 2020-06-16 2023-12-28 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic composition
US12115243B2 (en) * 2020-06-16 2024-10-15 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic composition
WO2024080698A1 (fr) * 2022-10-11 2024-04-18 (주) 에이치엔에이파마켐 Composition de nanoparticules lipidiques comprenant de l'adn de sodium

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