WO2004014325A1 - Preparations cosmetiques a deux phases - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques a deux phases Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004014325A1
WO2004014325A1 PCT/EP2003/007733 EP0307733W WO2004014325A1 WO 2004014325 A1 WO2004014325 A1 WO 2004014325A1 EP 0307733 W EP0307733 W EP 0307733W WO 2004014325 A1 WO2004014325 A1 WO 2004014325A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic
preparation
dermatological
phase
phases
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PCT/EP2003/007733
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rainer Kröpke
Sven Fey
Christel Lemm
Astrid Heptner
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2004014325A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004014325A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation and its use.
  • the skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • Skin care products usually creams, ointments or lotions, mostly serve to moisturize and regrease the skin. Active ingredients that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce its premature aging (for example the appearance of wrinkles, wrinkles) are often added to them.
  • sunscreen care products usually consist of emulsions.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two immiscible or only to a limited extent miscible liquids, which are usually referred to as phases and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. When viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.
  • the two liquids are water and oil and if there are oil droplets dispersed in water, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the reverse principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.
  • So-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions in order to keep emulsions stable over a longer period of time and to prevent separation of the phases.
  • Emulsifiers are usually molecules with a polar, hydrophilic
  • Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20), which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above
  • Cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations generally represent externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, consumers are increasingly perceiving them as monotonous and boring. However, the possibilities for making these preparations more visually attractive are limited. Increasingly, consumers are also tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves and then do themselves "something good”. In order to accommodate this new zest for action by consumers, two-phase cosmetic preparations are becoming increasingly popular offered, which the customer can convert into a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then use. To give the customer the pleasure of "mixing" before each use allow, the homogeneous emulsion must separate again in a reasonable time. This is the only way to match the play instinct of consumers and guarantee the joy of use. Last but not least, the two-phase products enable completely new optical design options.
  • two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation comprising a) an aqueous phase comprising i) one or more alcohols in an amount of at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation and ii) one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids in an amount of 0.01 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation b) a lipid phase whose interfacial tension is at least 30 Nm / m, in addition to any further cosmetic and / or dermatological Active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.
  • phase denotes a liquid component of the overall preparation which appears to be uniform with the naked eye and is separated from a second layer by a phase boundary which is visible to the naked eye.
  • phase boundary which is visible to the naked eye.
  • the invention is carried out under the homogenization of the preparation Shaking understood that after shaking the entire preparation appears visually to the naked eye as a uniform preparation without visible phase boundaries.
  • the lipophilic phase contains no constituents which have a solubilizer or emulsifier property.
  • Such compounds include, for example, silicone oils or partial fatty acid esters (mono- and diglycerides) such as cocoglyceride.
  • the emulsion according to the invention may as an aqueous' phase in addition to water according to the invention other ingredients include, for example, alcohols, diols (for example 1, 2-propanediol) or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, electrolytes, dihydoxyacetone and in particular one or more thickeners, which or soft ones can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates, Polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g.
  • one or more alcohols are advantageously selected from the group consisting of ethanol, 1-propanol and 2-propanol.
  • the alcohol preferred according to the invention is ethanol.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight of alcohol, based on the total weight of the preparation, wherein at least 50% by weight according to the invention means that the preparation contains 50% by weight or more than 50% by weight of alcohol can.
  • the preparation preferably contains at least 55% by weight and particularly preferably 60% by weight of alcohol, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids are selected from the group consisting of magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride and sea salt.
  • Magnesium sulfate is the preferred salt according to the invention.
  • the salts according to the invention can of course also be used in the form of their hydrates.
  • the aqueous phase advantageously contains ethanol in a concentration of 50 to 90% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 55 to 75% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 55 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparation.
  • the aqueous phase advantageously contains glycerol in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 3 to 12% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 5 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparation.
  • Moisturizers can also be used with preference. Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) after application or distribution on the skin surface and / or positively hydrating the horny layer to influence.
  • TEWL transepidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium octate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • the lipid phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyalpalmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyioleate, erucylerucate
  • the lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • the oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (e.g. Myritol® C 12 from Henkel) 13 alkyl lactate, di-C 12 ⁇ 3 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tncaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the lipid phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises 12 5 -alkyl . ⁇ a content of C or consists entirely of this.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate ⁇ Hallbrite TQ from CP Hall or Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer).
  • B. butyl octyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof Hallstar AB
  • diethyl hexyl naphthalate ⁇ Hallbrite TQ from CP Hall or Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer
  • the lipid phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexa- decane.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexa- decane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the lipid phase advantageously contains dicaprylyl carbonate in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 15 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 18 to 22% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • the lipid phase caprylic / capric contains triglycerides in a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight, preferably in one Concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 3 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the lipid phase advantageously contains C12-C15 alkyl benzoates in a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 3 to 8% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the lipid phase advantageously contains isoeicosan in a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 7 to 12% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • the expert can set the interfacial tension of the lipid phase in an obvious way by mixing the individual lipid components, their interfacial tension from standard tables such as Landold-Börnstein (Springer-Verlag), Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (CRC press) or the manufacturer's information for the individual components can be removed.
  • volume ratio of aqueous phase to lipid phase is from 50:50 to 90:10 and particularly preferably from 60:40 to 75:25.
  • the preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickening agents, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which, for example, are listed under the trade name Glydant TM is available from Lonza), iodopropylbutyl carbamate (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens ( ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • the aqueous and / or the lipid phase can advantageously be colored with one or more water- or lipid-soluble dyes.
  • compositions are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to determine their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
  • active substances in the sense of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • Recipes according to the invention which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • skin aging such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiec
  • compositions according to the invention include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • glucocorticoids e.g. hydrocortisone
  • plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.
  • the preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used as a sunscreen. But it is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z.
  • UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into self-tanning products, day care products or make-up products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations within the meaning of the present invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the formulation may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase
  • UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparation according to the invention.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), Aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexa etaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO 4 ) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexa etaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • SiSO 4 barium sulfate
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • dimethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
  • methicone methylpolysiloxane
  • simethicone a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel
  • alginic acid can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxan
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as, for. B .:
  • Idenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid is called Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name terephthalic the dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, from the company Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the
  • Benzoxazole derivatives such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma under the trade name UVASorb® K2A.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
  • Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1.3 l 3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxa- nyöpropylj-phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, ⁇ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester,
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4, bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5- triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenz
  • UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation:
  • Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention contain, as the UV filter, one or more triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature and / or the inorganic pigments, in particular titanium dioxide.
  • film formers may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the preparation according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting).
  • Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
  • Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the method for adjusting the separation speed of a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation homogenized by shaking according to the invention is characterized in that the difference in density of the two phases is varied by the addition of a) one or more alcohols to the aqueous phase, thereby reducing their density is reduced, b) one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids to the aqueous phase, which increases their density, c) mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol to the lipophilic phase, which reduces their density, and / or d) Caprylic-capric triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, dicarylyl carbonates and / or triisostearin, whereby the density of the lipophilic phase is increased, a lower density difference resulting in an increase in the separation rate.
  • the separation speed is understood to mean the time which the preparation homogenized by shaking takes to visually separate into two phases separated from one another by a clear phase boundary, visually visible to the naked eye.
  • the separation speed is at least 1 minute and a maximum of 45 minutes.
  • a density difference of 2 to 6% corresponds to a separation speed of approx. 1 to 15 minutes and a density difference of 0.1 to 2% corresponds to a separation speed of approx. 15 to 45 minutes.
  • the use of one or more alcohols in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageous Extension of the separation speed in two phases after homogenization of the preparation by shaking.
  • the use of one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention to shorten the separation speed in two phases after the homogenization of the preparation by shaking.
  • the use of mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is also used to extend the separation rate in two phases after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking.
  • caprylic-capric triglyceride and / or triisostearin in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is also used to shorten the separation speed in two phases after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking,
  • cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention for the care of the skin and skin appendages (e.g. the hair, nails) is advantageous.
  • the use of the preparations according to the invention for cooling and refreshing the skin is preferred.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation cosmétique ou dermatologique à deux phases qui contient : a) une phase aqueuse contenant i) un ou plusieurs alcools dans une quantité d'au moins 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la préparation, et ii) un ou plusieurs sels alcalins ou alcalinoterreux d'acides organiques ou inorganiques dans une quantité comprise entre 0,01 et 6 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la préparation, b) une phase lipidique dont la tension interfaciale vaut au moins 30 Nm/m, ainsi qu'éventuellement d'autres principes actifs, agents auxiliaires et additifs cosmétiques ou dermatologiques. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'alcools, d'huiles minérales, de dicaprylyl éther ou d'octyl dodécanol pour allonger la vitesse de séparation en deux phases après l'homogénéisation par agitation. L'invention concerne en outre l'utilisation de sels d'acides organiques ou inorganiques, de triglycéride d'acide caprylique/caprique, de benzoate d'alkyle C12-15, de dicaprylyl carbonate ou de triisostéarine pour raccourcir la vitesse de séparation.
PCT/EP2003/007733 2002-08-02 2003-07-16 Preparations cosmetiques a deux phases WO2004014325A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2002135422 DE10235422A1 (de) 2002-08-02 2002-08-02 Kosmetische Zubereitungen mit zwei Phasen
DE10235422.7 2002-08-02

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WO2004014325A1 true WO2004014325A1 (fr) 2004-02-19

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Cited By (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3038514A1 (fr) * 2015-07-07 2017-01-13 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmetique transparente biphase
WO2020104092A1 (fr) * 2018-11-21 2020-05-28 Beiersdorf Ag Préparation de soin du visage contenant de l'huile
EP3700498A4 (fr) * 2017-10-25 2021-07-07 L'oreal Composition pour soins de la peau, son procédé et son utilisation
WO2022021329A1 (fr) * 2020-07-31 2022-02-03 L'oreal Composition de soin de matières kératiniques et son procédé d'utilisation

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DE102011004927A1 (de) 2011-03-01 2012-09-06 Beiersdorf Ag Mehrphasige Zubereitungen
FR3007638B1 (fr) * 2013-06-28 2015-08-07 Oreal Composition biphase comprenant de l'acetate de magnesium
FR3033249B1 (fr) 2015-03-06 2020-11-13 Developpement Industrialisation Et Promotion De Tech Avancees Composition cosmetique solaire aqueuse depourvue de tensioactifs

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GB2206048A (en) * 1987-06-23 1988-12-29 Boots Co Plc Multi-layer cosmetic composition
EP0494391A1 (fr) * 1991-01-10 1992-07-15 Goldwell Aktiengesellschaft Composition cosmétique à deux phases
US5720942A (en) * 1992-06-01 1998-02-24 Radical Products, Inc. Two-phase tanning compositions and methods relating thereto
WO1999023998A1 (fr) * 1997-11-11 1999-05-20 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparation multiphase sous forme de stick
US6019991A (en) * 1998-01-23 2000-02-01 Chesebrough-Pond's Usa Co., Two-phase cosmetic composition
EP1108421A2 (fr) * 1999-12-17 2001-06-20 Unilever Plc Produit de pulvérisation moussant multicouche

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3038514A1 (fr) * 2015-07-07 2017-01-13 Laboratoires M&L Composition cosmetique transparente biphase
EP3700498A4 (fr) * 2017-10-25 2021-07-07 L'oreal Composition pour soins de la peau, son procédé et son utilisation
US11642293B2 (en) 2017-10-25 2023-05-09 L'oreal Composition for caring for skin, method and use thereof
WO2020104092A1 (fr) * 2018-11-21 2020-05-28 Beiersdorf Ag Préparation de soin du visage contenant de l'huile
WO2022021329A1 (fr) * 2020-07-31 2022-02-03 L'oreal Composition de soin de matières kératiniques et son procédé d'utilisation

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