WO2004014325A1

WO2004014325A1 - Cosmetic preparations having two phases

Info

Publication number: WO2004014325A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/007733
Authority: WO
Inventors: Rainer Kröpke; Sven Fey; Christel Lemm; Astrid Heptner
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2002-08-02
Filing date: 2003-07-16
Publication date: 2004-02-19
Also published as: DE10235422A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a two-phase cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation comprising a) an aqueous phase containing i) at least one alcohol in a quantity of at least 50 wt. %, in relation to the total weight of the preparation, and ii) at least one alkali salt and/or alkaline earth salt of organic and/or inorganic acids in a quantity of between 0.01 and 6 wt. %, in relation to the entire weight of the preparation, and b) a lipid phase having an interfacial tension of at least 30 Nm/m, in addition to optionally other cosmetic and/or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliary agents and additives. The invention also relates to the uses of alcohols, mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and/or octyl dodecanol, for reducing the speed of separation into two phases after homogenisation by means of shaking. The invention further relates to the use of salts of organic and/or inorganic acids, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate and/or triisostearin, for reducing the speed of separation.

Description

Cosmetic preparations with two phases

The present invention relates to a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation and its use.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in people. Even if the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been the goal of people. The condition and appearance of the skin has a significant part in a beautiful and attractive exterior.

The skin is the largest organ in humans. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out is probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.

In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it needs regular cleaning and care as well as protection against UV radiation. The cleaning of the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat and residues of dead skin particles, which form an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments or lotions, mostly serve to moisturize and regrease the skin. Active ingredients that regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce its premature aging (for example the appearance of wrinkles, wrinkles) are often added to them. To protect against the harmful UV radiation from sunlight, many cosmetic and dermatological skin care products have UV protection filters added. Skin care products usually consist of emulsions. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two immiscible or only to a limited extent miscible liquids, which are usually referred to as phases and in which one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. When viewed externally and with the naked eye, emulsions appear homogeneous.

If the two liquids are water and oil and if there are oil droplets dispersed in water, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the reverse principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.

So-called emulsifiers are added to the emulsions in order to keep emulsions stable over a longer period of time and to prevent separation of the phases. at

Emulsifiers are usually molecules with a polar, hydrophilic

Structural element and a non-polar, lipophilic structural element. Late forties

Years a system was developed that should facilitate the selection of emulsifiers.

Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 0 and 20), which indicates whether there is a preferred water or oil solubility. Numbers below 9 indicate oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers above

11 water-soluble, hydrophilic.

Cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations generally represent externally uniform, homogeneous preparations. However, consumers are increasingly perceiving them as monotonous and boring. However, the possibilities for making these preparations more visually attractive are limited. Increasingly, consumers are also tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves and then do themselves "something good". In order to accommodate this new zest for action by consumers, two-phase cosmetic preparations are becoming increasingly popular offered, which the customer can convert into a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then use. To give the customer the pleasure of "mixing" before each use allow, the homogeneous emulsion must separate again in a reasonable time. This is the only way to match the play instinct of consumers and guarantee the joy of use. Last but not least, the two-phase products enable completely new optical design options.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to remedy the shortcomings of the prior art and to develop a skin care product which consists of two optically distinguishable phases which can be homogenized by simple shaking, the homogenized preparation being able to take place within a maximum period of 45 minutes should completely separate again into the two initial phases. In addition, the use of emulsifiers should largely be avoided in the preparation. In principle, the use of emulators in cosmetic preparations is harmless, but emulsifiers, like ultimately any chemical compound, can cause allergies or skin irritation in particularly sensitive people in individual cases, which is why the provision of largely emulsifier-free cosmetic and dermatological preparations for such a group of people is a not inconsiderable advance represents.

The object is surprisingly achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation comprising a) an aqueous phase comprising i) one or more alcohols in an amount of at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation and ii) one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids in an amount of 0.01 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation b) a lipid phase whose interfacial tension is at least 30 Nm / m, in addition to any further cosmetic and / or dermatological Active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

According to the invention, the term phase denotes a liquid component of the overall preparation which appears to be uniform with the naked eye and is separated from a second layer by a phase boundary which is visible to the naked eye. According to the invention is carried out under the homogenization of the preparation Shaking understood that after shaking the entire preparation appears visually to the naked eye as a uniform preparation without visible phase boundaries.

According to the invention, it is particularly advantageous and in most cases even imperative that the lipophilic phase contains no constituents which have a solubilizer or emulsifier property. Such compounds include, for example, silicone oils or partial fatty acid esters (mono- and diglycerides) such as cocoglyceride.

The emulsion according to the invention may as an ^aqueous' phase in addition to water according to the invention other ingredients include, for example, alcohols, diols (for example 1, 2-propanediol) or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or - monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, electrolytes, dihydoxyacetone and in particular one or more thickeners, which or soft ones can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates, Polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

According to the invention, one or more alcohols are advantageously selected from the group consisting of ethanol, 1-propanol and 2-propanol. The alcohol preferred according to the invention is ethanol.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains at least 50% by weight of alcohol, based on the total weight of the preparation, wherein at least 50% by weight according to the invention means that the preparation contains 50% by weight or more than 50% by weight of alcohol can. According to the invention, the preparation preferably contains at least 55% by weight and particularly preferably 60% by weight of alcohol, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. With an alcohol content of at least 50% by weight which is advantageous according to the invention, preservatives can advantageously be dispensed with according to the invention, which represents a further advantage of the present invention.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids are selected from the group consisting of magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride and sea salt. Magnesium sulfate is the preferred salt according to the invention. The salts according to the invention can of course also be used in the form of their hydrates.

According to the invention, the aqueous phase advantageously contains ethanol in a concentration of 50 to 90% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 55 to 75% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 55 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparation.

According to the invention, the aqueous phase advantageously contains glycerol in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 3 to 12% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 5 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the Preparation.

Moisturizers can also be used with preference. Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) after application or distribution on the skin surface and / or positively hydrating the horny layer to influence.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium octate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are as hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.

The lipid phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, such as. B. olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyalpalmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyioleate, erucylerucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyltrimetic and natural gemellate, as well as synthetic, such as. B. Jojoba oil. Furthermore, the lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.

It is further preferred that the oil component (s) from the group isoeikosan, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, cocoglycerides (e.g. Myritol® C ₁₂ from Henkel) ₁₃ alkyl lactate, di-C ₁₂ ι ₃ alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tncaprylin, dimethyl isosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the lipid phase of the formulations according to the invention comprises ₁₂ ₅ -alkyl .ι a content of C or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate {Hallbrite TQ from CP Hall or Corapan®TQ from Haarmann & Reimer).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, the lipid phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexa- decane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

According to the invention, the lipid phase advantageously contains dicaprylyl carbonate in a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 15 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 18 to 22% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation ,

Advantageously according to the invention, the lipid phase caprylic / capric (caprylic-capric acid) contains triglycerides in a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight, preferably in one Concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 3 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the lipid phase advantageously contains C12-C15 alkyl benzoates in a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 3 to 8% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, the lipid phase advantageously contains isoeicosan in a concentration of 0 to 50% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 7 to 12% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation ,

The expert can set the interfacial tension of the lipid phase in an obvious way by mixing the individual lipid components, their interfacial tension from standard tables such as Landold-Börnstein (Springer-Verlag), Handbook of Chemistry and Physics (CRC press) or the manufacturer's information for the individual components can be removed.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the volume ratio of aqueous phase to lipid phase is from 50:50 to 90:10 and particularly preferably from 60:40 to 75:25.

The preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickening agents, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which, for example, are listed under the trade name Glydant ™ is available from Lonza), iodopropylbutyl carbamate (for example those available under the trade names Glycacil-L, Glycacil-S from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens ( ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like. According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

According to the invention, the aqueous and / or the lipid phase can advantageously be colored with one or more water- or lipid-soluble dyes.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to determine their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention are natural active substances and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, camosin, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially σ-glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

However, other pharmaceutically or dermatologically active substances such as, for example, substances that soothe and care for the skin can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. These include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, antiphlogistics, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant substances such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, licorice root.

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously be used as a sunscreen. But it is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. For example, UV-A or UV-B filter substances are usually incorporated into self-tanning products, day care products or make-up products. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.

Accordingly, the preparations within the meaning of the present invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light. The formulation may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase

According to the invention are all embodiments in which the UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparation according to the invention.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethyl hexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethyl hexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxy cinnamic acid (2-ethyl hexyl) ester (2-ethyl hexyl 4-methoxy cinnamate, INCI: ethyl hexyl methoxy cinnamate) and 4-methoxy cinnamate (4-methoxy cinnamate) isophenoxy cinnamate , INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) and polymeric UV filters such as the (3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) methylsiloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, which is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Röche under the Trade name Parsol SLX is available.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), Aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated ("coated"), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ O ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexa etaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (SiO ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO ₄ ) or iron oxide (Fe ₂ O ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as, for. B .:

• Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially phenylene-1 , 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disödium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP; • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which for example under the trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or from Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidene-methyl) -benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene)) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene 1,4-di (2-oxo-3-borny! Idenmethyl-10-sulfonic acid) is called Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name terephthalic the dicampher sulfonic acid (CAS No. 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, from the company Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SX;

• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, such as e.g. 2- (4-Diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, which is available, for example, from BASF under the

Commercial name Uvinul® A Plus is available.

Benzoxazole derivatives, such as e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available, for example, from 3V Sigma under the trade name UVASorb® K2A.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyρhenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH under the trade name Tinosorb® S;

• Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

• 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl tria- zone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1.3 _l 3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxa- nyöpropylj-phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g. B .:

^■ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, ^■ 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester,

^■ Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

^■ and UV filters bound to polymers. ^■ 3- (4- (2,2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is obtainable for example under the trade name Parsol SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1,4, bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5- triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester, in each case individually or in any combination with one another.

The list of UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation:

Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention contain, as the UV filter, one or more triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature and / or the inorganic pigments, in particular titanium dioxide.

It may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the preparation according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting). Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.

Advantageous water-soluble or dispersible film formers are e.g. B. Polyurethanes (e.g. Avalure® types from Goodrich), Dimethicone Copolyol Polyacrylate (Silsoft Surface® from the Witco Organo Silicones Group), PVP / VA (VA = vinyl acetate) copolymer (Luviscol VA 64 Powder from BASF) etc ,

Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

Particularly preferred are copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.

According to the invention, the method for adjusting the separation speed of a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation homogenized by shaking according to the invention is characterized in that the difference in density of the two phases is varied by the addition of a) one or more alcohols to the aqueous phase, thereby reducing their density is reduced, b) one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids to the aqueous phase, which increases their density, c) mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol to the lipophilic phase, which reduces their density, and / or d) Caprylic-capric triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, dicarylyl carbonates and / or triisostearin, whereby the density of the lipophilic phase is increased, a lower density difference resulting in an increase in the separation rate.

According to the invention, the separation speed is understood to mean the time which the preparation homogenized by shaking takes to visually separate into two phases separated from one another by a clear phase boundary, visually visible to the naked eye.

According to the invention, the separation speed is at least 1 minute and a maximum of 45 minutes.

According to the invention, a density difference of 2 to 6% corresponds to a separation speed of approx. 1 to 15 minutes and a density difference of 0.1 to 2% corresponds to a separation speed of approx. 15 to 45 minutes.

According to the invention, the use of one or more alcohols in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is advantageous Extension of the separation speed in two phases after homogenization of the preparation by shaking.

According to the invention, the use of one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention to shorten the separation speed in two phases after the homogenization of the preparation by shaking.

According to the invention, the use of mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is also used to extend the separation rate in two phases after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking.

According to the invention, the use of caprylic-capric triglyceride and / or triisostearin in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is also used to shorten the separation speed in two phases after the preparation has been homogenized by shaking,

For the purposes of the present invention, the use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention for the care of the skin and skin appendages (e.g. the hair, nails) is advantageous.

For the purposes of the present invention, the use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims is advantageous for cleaning the skin and skin appendages.

According to the invention, the use of the preparations according to the invention for cooling and refreshing the skin is preferred.

The storage (packaging) of the preparations according to the invention in transparent or translucent packaging is also preferred according to the invention. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Claims

claims

1. Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation containing a) an aqueous phase containing i) one or more alcohols in an amount of at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation and ii) one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts organic and / or inorganic acids in an amount of 0.01 to 6% by weight, based on the

Total weight of the preparation b) a lipid phase whose interfacial tension is at least 30 Nm / m, in addition to any other cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients,

Auxiliaries and additives. 2. Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that one or more alcohols are selected from the group consisting of ethanol, 1-propanol,

2-propanol.

3. Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one of claims t or 2, characterized in that one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth salts of organic and / or inorganic acids are selected from the group magnesium chloride, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, calcium chloride, magnesium chloride , Sea-salt.

4. A method for adjusting the separation speed of a two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation homogenized by shaking according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the density difference of the two phases is varied by the addition of a) one or more alcohols to the aqueous phase , which reduces their density, b) one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids to the aqueous phase, thereby increasing their density, c) mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol to the lipophilic phase,. thereby reducing their density, and / or d) caprylic-capric triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoates, dicaprylyl carbonates and / or triisostearin, which increases the density of the lipophilic phase, a lower density difference resulting in an increase in the separation rate.

5. Use of one or more alcohols in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims for extending the separation speed in two phases after the homogenization of the preparation by shaking.

6. Use of one or more alkali and / or alkaline earth metal salts of organic and / or inorganic acids in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims to shorten the separation speed in two phases after the homogenization of the preparation by shaking.

7. Use of mineral oils, dicaprylyl ether and / or octyldodecanol in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims for extending the separation speed in two phases after the homogenization of the preparation by shaking.

8. Use of caprylic-capric triglyceride, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicapylyl carbonate and / or triisostearin in cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims to shorten the separation speed in two phases after the homogenization of the preparation by shaking.

9. Use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims for cleaning and care of the skin and

Skin appendages.

10. Use of cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims for cooling and refreshing the skin.