Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

• the present invention relates to cleansing and/or exfoliating compositions that are useful for personal skin care.
• the skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi) .
• the skin of the human body comprises the dermis and the epidermis.
• the epidermis is the top most layer of the skin, and its superficial layer is called the stratum corneum.
• the stratum corneum or horny layer, is normally made up of 10 to 30 layers of dead cells. These cells are constantly being replaced by new cells from below. It is estimated that in adult skin it takes about a month for the stratum corneum to be completely replaced by new cells. The replacement time increases with aging, until around 120-150 days. The longer it takes to replace the dead cells, the more layers of dead cells accumulate.
• cleansing the skin is an essential step for caring for the keratin materials, in particular the facial skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, and the remnants of cosmetic products used daily, and make-up products can result in an unpleasant oily appearance.
• rinsable cleansing anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams, lotions and gels, and non-foaming compositions are known.
• hydrocarbon wax beads are relatively large in size, notably 300 to 2000 ⁇ m, and tend to be soft in cleansing or exfoliating formula, which is not desired;
• sodium salts are used as scrub beads in cleansing and exfoliating compositions.
• surfactants such as SLES (sodium lauryl sulfate) in order to maintain the foaming property of the composition.
• SLES sodium lauryl sulfate
• This type of surfactants are known for its strong cleansing ability, as well as harshness to the skin, in particular sensitive skin.
• compositions for caring for the keratin materials with very good cleansing and/or exfoliating properties, while at the same time maintaining mild and gentle feeling after application.
• compositions having the desired properties as described above by combining a specific surfactant with high amount of salt.
• the present invention relates to a composition (also called “the composition of the invention” ) for caring for keratin materials, comprising, in an aqueous phase:
• composition of the invention is able to deliver a gentle massage and cleansing to the skin, without any harsh feeling.
• composition of the present invention also delivers a good foaming effect during application.
• composition of the invention is stable over time.
• stable it is meant that the composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
• the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials with natural origin ingredients.
• all the ingredients of the composition of the present invention are natural origin.
• composition of the present invention is a rinse off product.
• a composition is applied on skin (i.e. face and/or body) , and then rinsed.
• composition of the invention comprises, in an aqueous phase:
• a polyol according to the present invention may preferably be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 6 polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, dialkylene polyols with at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
• Mentions may be made to, as polyols useful in the composition of the present invention, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, hexalene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
• the polyol of the present invention is chosen from linear C 2 -C 4 polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, C 2 -C 4 dialkylene polyols comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, or a mixture thereof.
• the polyol of the present invention is glycerin.
• composition of the present invention comprises from 10%to 70%by weight, more preferably from 20%to 60%by weight of the C 2 -C 6 polyol, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition of the present invention comprises at least one glycerinate surfactant.
• said glyceinate surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of glycine wherein the amine group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of a glycinate is acylated with a C 8 to C 22 fatty acid derivative.
• the carboxylate salts of these glycine can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the glycine with a base.
• the amine group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of the neutralized glycine is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the glycinate surfactant.
• a fatty acid halide acyl halide
• Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides.
• the acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide) .
• a thionyl halide bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide
• acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof.
• acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids.
• a method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
• said glycinate surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :
• Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms
• X and Y are hydrogen group
• n 0,
• M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
• glycinate surfactants palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
• Z represents a saturated and linear C 8 to C 22 alkyl group
• X and Y are hydrogen group
• n 0,
• M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
• the glycinate surfactant is sodium N-cocoylglycinate.
• the glycinate surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 2%to 20%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the present invention comprises at least 5%by weight of at least one water-soluble inorganic salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• water-soluble it means that the solubility of the inorganic salt in water is at least 100 g/L at room temperature, preferably at least 200 g/L at room temperature.
• the inorganic salt suitable for the composition of the present invention has a cation chosen from Na + , K + , Li + , Ca 2+ , Mg 2+ , Cu 2+ , or Zn 2+ , and an anion chosen from halides, HCO 3 - , or HPO 4 - .
• halides are used.
• the cations are preferably mono-or divalent.
• Preferred cations are selected from Na, Ca, Li, K, Mg, Cu and Zn.
• the preferred salts are chosen from sodium chloride, potassium chloride, lithium chloride, ammonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.
• the inventors found that the combination of the ingredients in the composition of the present invention enables the inorganic water soluble salts existing in form of particles in the composition, instead of solubilized, and therefore provides a scrubbing function to the skin during application. Consequently, the composition of the present invention delivers an excellent and mild exfoliation effect to the skin.
• the inorganic salt may be present in the composition at a content greater than 5%by weight, preferably between 6%and 40%, preferably between 7%and 35%by weight, and more preferably between 10%and 30%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• salts in particular water-soluble inorganic salts has an impact on the foaming of compositions existing on the market. In particular, it prevents foam from generation, or defoams in cosmetic compositions.
• surfactants such as SLES, in combination with low amount of salts.
• compositions of this type does not deliver an exfoliation effect, as the salt is not in form of particles in the composition. Besides, it failed to deliver a gentle and mild cleansing to the skin.
• the present invention makes it possible to formulate a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, which comprises a high amount of salt, in combination with a glycinate surfactant, and presents a very good foaming property.
• the weight ratio of the at least one C 2 -C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt is greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1.5 to 5. According to this preferred embodiment, the ratio of the at least one C 2 -C 6 polyol and the at least one water soluble inorganic salt can ensure a superior cleansing and exfoliating effect, due to the fact that the salts are in form of particles and deliver a desired scrubbing feeling to the skin.
• composition of the present invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
• the composition of the present invention is an aqueous solution.
• the aqueous phase includes water.
• the amount of water in the compositions according to the invention ranges from 1%to 30%by weight, preferably from 5%to 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the present invention relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising, in an aqueous phase, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
• the present invention also relates to a composition for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin ( “cosmetic composition” ) , comprising the composition of the invention as described above, and at least one additional ingredient.
• the additional ingredients that are useful in the present invention include additional surfactants, such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, or mixtures thereof.
• additional surfactants such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, thickeners, or mixtures thereof.
• the additional surfactants are selected from nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and their mixtures.
• Nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, such as the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; ethanolamine and its derivatives, such as cocamide MEA; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) , such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example,
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
• R a represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
• ⁇ R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
• ⁇ R c represents a carboxymethyl group
• ⁇ B represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 OX'
• ⁇ X' represents the group -CH 2 COOH, CH 2 COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
• ⁇ Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH 2 CHOHSO 3 H or the group -CH 2 CHOHSO 3 Z',
• ⁇ Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine,
• R a' represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a' COON preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of C 17 and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine (or cocobetaine) , and (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8 ) alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
• the additional surfactant is selected from oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, or a mixture thereof.
• the additional surfactant when exists, is selected from PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate, cocoylbetaine, or a mixture thereof.
• the amount of additional surfactant (s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one thickener.
• the thickeners may advantageously be chosen from xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose (available as ) , hydroxyethyl cellulose carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (available as ) , hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (available as Plus 330) , N-vinylpyrolidone (available as ) , Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer (available as 3001) , hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available as XL) , polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (e.g.
• PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI copolymer e.g. 44
• PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer available as 46
• trihydroxystearin available as )
• acrylates copolymer e.g. available as 33
• hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers e.g.
• acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer available as 22
• acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer available as 88
• acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer available as 38
• acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer available as 28
• acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer available as ETD 2020
• the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 8%by weight, more preferably from 1%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise at least one additive.
• a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for these compositions are not affected by the additives.
• composition according to the invention may be applied by any means enabling a uniform distribution, in particular using a finger, or a cotton ball, a rod, a brush, gauze, or a spatula, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
• composition of the invention may be implemented so as to improve the general state of the epidermis, in particular the skin.
• the present invention also relates to a method for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of the composition according to the invention.
• the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for cleansing and/or exfoliating keratin materials, in particular the skin.
• the comparative formulas A1 and A2 contain sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium laureth sulfate, respectively, instead of the glycinate surfactant as claimed in the present invention.
• Score 4 from 60%to 80% (not included) of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
• Score 3 at least 50%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected
• the stability was measured after storage during one month at 4°C, 25°C (room temperature or RT) , 40°C or 45°C.
• Stability tests are also performed under sun test and during several cycles.
• Stability under sun test was performed by leaving the cosmetic composition of the invention in a Suntest CPS+produced by Atlas for 24 hours.
• Cycle stability test was performed at a cycle of-20°C to 20°C every 24 hours, for 10 days.
• the invention formula B possesses an excellent property in each of the tests listed above, and therefore is the preferred embodiment of the present invention.
• the comparative formula A1 is not stable: phase separation is seen immediately after formulation.

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• 2017
  • 2017-12-27 CN CN201780097970.XA patent/CN111556741A/zh active Pending
  • 2017-12-27 WO PCT/CN2017/118952 patent/WO2019127089A1/en active Application Filing

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