WO2019096517A1 - Composition de conditionnement capillaire transparente et son utilisation - Google Patents

Composition de conditionnement capillaire transparente et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019096517A1
WO2019096517A1 PCT/EP2018/078208 EP2018078208W WO2019096517A1 WO 2019096517 A1 WO2019096517 A1 WO 2019096517A1 EP 2018078208 W EP2018078208 W EP 2018078208W WO 2019096517 A1 WO2019096517 A1 WO 2019096517A1
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weight
composition according
composition
hair
contained
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PCT/EP2018/078208
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English (en)
Inventor
Ji Feng
Michael Demitz
Zebao JIA
Zhaoxia Bao
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Publication of WO2019096517A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019096517A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5428—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge amphoteric or zwitterionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a transparent hair conditioning composition comprising an aqueous system containing polymeric thickening components, amphoteric polymers and selected cationic surfactants.
  • the invention also relates to use of the composition according to the invention for providing hair with freshness without leaving it oily and/or greasy. Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for providing hair which can be easily detangled and combed in a wet and dry condition.
  • the hair consists of a hair shaft and a hair root.
  • the hair shaft protrudes freely from the skin, and is a keratinized (dead) section of the hair.
  • the hair shaft represents the actual visible part of the hair, which is continually renewed.
  • the hair root which sticks in the skin, is the living part of the hair.
  • the hair shaft consists of three layers: the central part, which is called medulla, is regressed in humans, often completely missing; followed by the cortex arranged around the medulla; and the cuticle as the outermost layer, comprising of up to ten horny layers.
  • Sunlight mechanical stress by intensive combing or brushing, hair treatments, such as hair colorations, bleaching and permanent waving, but also repeated hair washings with compositions containing harsh surfactants, and hair-shaping using a hair dryer or other tools can cause damage to hair.
  • One aim of hair care is to retain the natural state of freshly grown hair over a period as long as possible and, in the case of loss of the natural state, to restore it.
  • natural healthy hair has a silky shine look, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel.
  • compositions were developed to provide care to hair and scalp. These compositions are intended to remain in the hair (leave-on) or to be rinsed off. Compositions in form of leave-on compositions can provide further benefits as improving hair setting, volume and combability of hair, to mention only a few.
  • Hair care compositions generally contain conditioning components that interact with the surface of hair and scalp.
  • conditioning components are selected from those components characterized by quaternary ammonium residues, protein hydrolysates, fats and oils, silicones and silicone derivatives.
  • Components with quaternary ammonium residues preferably are cationic surfactants or cationic polymers.
  • Cationic components for conditioning are amphiphilic molecules with a hydrophilic, positively charged part and a lipophilic part.
  • the hydrophilic, positively charged part may be a quaternary ammonium residue.
  • the lipophilic part of the molecule may interact with the lipophilic parts of the hair, located in the cuticula.
  • the cuticula is composed of cells that are arranged in a tile-like manner. Electron microscopic pictures reveal different layers having a different chemical composition. The outmost layer is very hard and characterized by cystin-rich proteins. Furthermore, lipids are present on the surface of and inside the cuticula. Therefore, both parts, the hydrophilic and the lipophilic one, of the amphiphilic conditioning components may interact with components of the cuticula.
  • compositions provided for hair care contain conditioning components that may be selected from cationic surfactants or cationic polymers, protein hydrolysates, fats, oils, and derivatives thereof, silicones and silicone derivatives. These components are used alone or in a myriad of different combinations. Said compositions are available in many different forms, for instance any form of emulsion, gel, spray etc.
  • WO 2004/058199 Al describes compositions containing carbamate substituted saccharides and cationic conditioners that improve the combability, volume, shine and setting of hair and prevent the electrostatic charging of hair. If said compositions are provided as foams, the foam is creamy and stable. Furthermore, electrolytes may be contained in larger amounts.
  • DE 102008030139 Al discloses hair care compositions with improvements in applying the compositions to hair. Said compositions contain selected silicone emulsions.
  • compositions according to said application comprise two different cationic surfactants in a specific ratio.
  • compositions for conditioning hair comprising specific alkyl lactates. Said compositions provide improved caring qualities.
  • Patent application DE 19629951 Al discloses hair care compositions that are transparent or translucent. Said compositions are in form of micro emulsions. Droplets sizes smaller than 10 2 pm in diameter result in transparent or translucent emulsions. Compositions according to the above mentioned application contain specific O/W- emulsifiers in amounts smaller than 2% by weight and selected cationic surfactants.
  • EP 2116225 Al describes hair care compositions comprising cationic surfactants and two different polymers, Polyquaternium-68 and a polymer consisting of 23 to 27 % by weight vinylpyrrolidone, 45 to 49 % by weight tert-butyl acrylate, 2 to 4 % by weight methacrylic acid, 9 to 11 % by weight dimethyl aminopropyl methacrylamide and 13 to 17 % by weight methacryloyle oxyethyle dimethylethyle ammonium ethylsulfate, having a molecular weight of 80,000 to 240,000 g/mol.
  • Compositions according to the above mentioned application are intended for damaged or fine hair and do not load hair up. Volume, elasticity, and combability of hair is improved.
  • EP 2462918 A2 discloses hair-conditioning compositions.
  • the problem to be solved by this invention was to provide products that have good caring qualities, however avoiding the use of too much caring/conditioning components. Too much of said components result in hair, which is difficult to style.
  • the compositions of the above- mentioned application comprise dimethicone, waxes, a tackifying polymer and a film- forming polymer.
  • compositions which are transparent or translucent compositions, which help to avoid greasy and heavy hair or hair difficult to style because of too much conditioning components, there is still a need for compositions, which do not leave the hair greasy or heavy but nonetheless contribute to a good gliding, good detangling and good combability of wet and dry hair. In addition, hair should be provided with freshness.
  • a conditioning composition comprising an aqueous system containing thickening polymers, amphoteric polymers and cationic surfactants is able to improve the physical-optical properties of hair.
  • the present invention provides a transparent hair conditioning composition, comprising
  • composition may optionally comprise the auxiliary components as listed in the part of“detailed description of the invention”, such as emulsifiers, further surfactants, ethoxylated silicones, further cationic polymers, humectants, preservatives, antioxidants, fatty alcohols and capsules.
  • auxiliary components as listed in the part of“detailed description of the invention”, such as emulsifiers, further surfactants, ethoxylated silicones, further cationic polymers, humectants, preservatives, antioxidants, fatty alcohols and capsules.
  • the composition according to the present invention contains an aqueous system
  • water has to be present.
  • the composition comprises a balance amount of water, so that all the components amount to 100 % by weight. It is preferred that water amounts from 70 to 95 % by weight, more preferably from 75 to 90 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention refers to use of the composition of the present invention in conditioning and caring hair, especially providing hair with freshness without leaving it oily and/or greasy. Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for providing hair which can be easily detangled and combed in a wet and dry condition.
  • the conditioning composition of the present invention leads to improved gliding, detangling, and combability of wet and dry hair. Furthermore, after treatment with composition of the present invention, hair is provided with freshness, thereby avoiding leaving hair oily and/or greasy.
  • the composition contains at least one polymer, which has a thickening effect, with the proviso that polymers having one or more anionic and one or more cationic groups in the same polymer are excluded.
  • Thickening polymers are macromolecules which are composed of monomers arranged in a linear, partially a cross-linked way. Interactions between parts of the macromolecule and other macromolecules contribute to build a network resulting in gels or viscous solutions. Said macromolecules are water soluble or water swellable compounds. Water is bound or absorbed by said molecules, thus increasing the viscosity of a solution.
  • Thickening polymers are derived from chemically very different groups, characterized by their capability to dissolve or swell in water. Sufficient hydrophilic residues, being ionic, anionic or cationic ones, lead to the water solubility or swelling capability.
  • Thickening polymers frequently contained in cosmetic as well as dermatologic compositions may be categorized as follows:
  • Natural, organic compounds as for instance agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginate, pectin, hemicellulose, guar-flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatine, casein;
  • organic compounds as for instance carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulosic ether, such as hydroxyethyl- and -propyl cellulose and related compounds;
  • inorganic compounds as for instance polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonite, and zeolites.
  • the at least one thickening polymer is selected from the group consisting of polymers containing or consisting of (meth)acrylic derivatives comprising a quaternary ammonium group, with the proviso that no anionic monomer is contained in said polymer.
  • Anionic monomers are characterized by the presence of acidic groups, for instance, carboxylate, sulfate, phosphate groups.
  • Ri is hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 4 are identical or different substituents representing alkyl substituents with 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl substituent
  • A represents a straight or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxylated alkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [X ] a suitable counterion, preferably chloride, bromide or methosulfate.
  • Polyquaterium-37 is a polymer according to the above mentioned formula and is well preferred according to the present invention. Polyquaternium-37 may be purchased as COSMEDIA Ultragel 300 from BASF.
  • the thickening effect is provided by cellulose or modified cellulose, such as ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl ethyl cellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • cellulose or modified cellulose such as ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl ethyl cellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • hydroxyethyl cellulose is most preferred and may be purchased from the company of Ashland as Natrosol 250 HHX pharm.
  • the at least one thickening polymer is contained in amounts from 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4.5 % by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • an aqueous system contains
  • Ri is hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 , R 4 are identical or different substituents representing alkyl substituents with 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl substituent
  • A is a straight or branched alkyl chain of 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxylated alkyl chain of 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [X ] a counterion, chosen from chloride, bromide or methosulfate
  • a transparent hair conditioning composition comprises
  • amphoteric polymers are synthetic polymers containing residues with a cationic and an anionic function.
  • the anionic function may be provided by monomers such as (meth-)acrylic acid.
  • the cationic function may be provided by monomers such as diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and/or methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • these polymers Due to the cationic function, these polymers can interact with the outermost layers of hair or skin. Through these interactions, a conditioning effect may be provided.
  • amphoteric polymers are polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-47 and polyquaternium-53. More preferably, polyquaternium-47 is contained. Polyquaternium-22 may be purchased as Merquat 295, polyquaternium-47 as Merquat 2001 and polyquaternium-53 as Merquat 2003, all from the company of Lubrizol.
  • the at least one amphoteric polymer is contained in an amount from 0.01 to 1.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.8 % by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • cationic surfactants may optionally be contained.
  • Cationic surfactants are amphiphilic molecules containing a positively charged, hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part. Usually, a nitrogen atom containing group confers the positively charged residue. Alkyl residues generally containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms form the lipophilic parts.
  • cationic surfactants may be mentioned: alkyl amines, ethoxylated amines, quaternary ammonium salts and alkyl imidazolines. Frequently used are quaternary ammonium salts.
  • alkyl amines alkyl amines, ethoxylated amines, quaternary ammonium salts and alkyl imidazolines. Frequently used are quaternary ammonium salts.
  • esterquats have been developed. Esterquats are cationic surfactants where the alkyl residues are connected to hydrophilic part by ester bonds.
  • the cationic function may be permanent, mostly a quaternary ammonium residue.
  • Primary, secondary or tertiary ammonium residues may be cationic dependent on the respective pH value.
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is preferably one, which contains a quaternary ammonium group. More preferably, the quaternary ammonium group contains nitrogen atoms having three methyl groups as substituents, whereas the fourth substituent is a long chain alkyl residue, which can be straight, branched, substituted or unsubstituted. It is even more preferred that the alkyl residue is a straight, unsubstituted one containing 12 to 28 carbon atoms. It is most preferred, if the alkyl residue contains 18 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the corresponding anion can be selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide and methosulfate.
  • the most preferred cationic surfactants may be selected from the group consisting of soytrimonium chloride, which may be supplied as SV 60 from AkzoNobel, steartrimonium chloride, which may be supplied from HuZhou HuXing RiHua (China), and cetrimonium chloride, which may be supplied as Varisoft 300 from Evonik.
  • quaternary fatty acid amidoamines are also preferred cationic surfactants.
  • a more preferred example of said surfactants is palmitamidopropyl chloride, which may be purchased as Variosoft PATC from Evonik.
  • Another more preferred example is Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, which may be purchased as Tego Amid S 18 from Evonik.
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is used preferably in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention is preferably in form of a gel. Nevertheless, emulsifiers may be contained, preferably polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids, such as ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, and laureth-23 and ethoxylated sorbitan esterified with fatty acids, such as for instance polysorbate-60 and polysorbate-80. It is even more preferred, if ceteareth-20 is contained in the composition according to the invention. Furthermore, one emulsifier or a mixture of emulsifiers may be contained in the composition according to the present invention. The total amount of one or more emulsifier(s) is from 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4.0 % by weight, even more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • emulsifiers may be contained, preferably polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acids, such as ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30,
  • amphoteric surfactants may be used, even more preferred are those, which contain a betaine-structure. It is most preferred, when coco- betaine is contained.
  • One amphoteric surfactant or a mixture of amphoteric surfactants may be contained in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the total amount of one or more amphoteric surfactant(s) is from 0.1 to 6.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 % by weight, even more preferably 0.3 to 4.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • additional conditioning components may be optionally comprised in the composition.
  • One group of additional conditioning components which are very suitable according to the present invention are ethoxylated silicones.
  • Silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms.
  • the siloxane units are connected in a variety of different ways, generally in a linear or cross-linked way or combining parts of a linear structure and parts of a cross-linked structure in one molecule.
  • Four main groups of silicones may be differentiated:
  • Linear polysiloxanes having the structure MD n M, respectively R 3 SiO[R 2 SiO] n SiR 3 , such as for example polydimethylsiloxane.
  • Crosslinked polysiloxanes are linear or cyclic molecules, building two- or three-dimensional networks by the incorporation of tri- and tetra-functional siloxane units.
  • Branched polysiloxanes contain tri- and tetra-functional siloxane units and have the formula M n D m T n .
  • the branching points are located in a polysiloxane chain or ring.
  • silicone may be differentiated by different substituents.
  • substituents of silicones and combinations thereof have been described.
  • silicone molecules which contain linear and crosslinked parts and polyethylene glycol substituents, are preferred. It is even more preferred, when the polyethylene glycol substituents contain 10 to 20, especially 15 to 18 ethylene glycol units.
  • PEG- 17 Dimethicone is an example of this class of silicones and is the most preferred one. PEG- 17 Dimethicone may be purchased as Silsoft 895 dimethicone polyol from Momentive.
  • silicone molecules which contain linear arranged siloxane units and polyethylene glycol substituents are also preferred. It is even more preferred, when the polyethylene glycol substituents contain 8 to 18, especially 10 to 15 ethylene glycol units.
  • PEG- 12 Dimethicone is an example for this class of silicones and is another most preferred one.
  • PEG- 12 Dimethicone may be purchased as XIAMETER ® OFX-0193 Fluid from Dow Corning.
  • one ethoxylated silicone or mixtures of ethoxylated silicones may be contained.
  • the total amount of one or more ethoxylated silicone(s) is from 0.1 to 7.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 % by weight, even more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • further cationic polymers may be used as conditioning components, with the proviso that they are different from the thickening polymers having a cationic function and different from the amphoteric polymers.
  • the further cationic polymer may be of natural origin or synthetic origin, and may be selected from the group consisting of cationic polysaccharides, vinyl monomer containing copolymers, allyl monomer containing polymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and cation modified proteins.
  • the cationic polymers of natural origin may be based on the guar molecule which is modified in such a way that cationic substituents are introduced or substituents are introduced which are cationic at specific pH values, specifically at those pH values of the hair conditioning compositions.
  • An example of the modified guar molecules is guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • Cationic polymers derived from cellulose may also be used in the present invention. Similar to the case of guar, the substituents introduced to cellulose allow the cellulose molecule to have cationic qualities.
  • An example is polyquaternium 10 (e.g., JR 30M ® obtained from Amerchol company), which is also called cellulose 2-(2- hydroxy-3(trimethylammonio)propoxy)ethyl ether chloride.
  • polyquaternium 74 is an acrylic/methacrylamidepropyldimethylammonium chloride
  • the total amount of one or more cationic polymer(s) is/are from 0.001 to 1.5 % by weight, preferably 0.01 % to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may preferably contain humectants.
  • Humectants are hygroscopic substances, which bind water and therefore provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as amine or carboxyl groups can fulfill the same function.
  • Examples of humectants are propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, urea, Aloe Vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey. More preferred humectants are glycerol and propylene glycol.
  • One or more humectants may be contained in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the one or more humectant (s) is/are used preferably in an amount of 1.0 to 15.0 % by weight, more preferably 5.0 to 10.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair conditioning composition of the present invention may comprise preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations.
  • preservatives which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic preparations.
  • the preferred preservatives can be used alone or in combination.
  • the total amount of preservative, referring as well to one single preservative as to a combination of preservatives, is from 0.0001 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 1.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • antioxidants may be used in the composition of the present invention.
  • antioxidants are molecules which prevent other molecules from being oxidized. Oxidation processes can release free radicals which are damaging or destroying other molecules. If these other molecules are part of living cells, these cells can be damaged. There are several molecules which are able to function as radical scavenger. These molecules are also called antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants can be of natural origin, for example vitamin C, gluthathione, lipoic acid, carotenes, vitamin E and coenzyme Q 10, or of synthetic origin, for example butylhydroanisol (BHA), butylhydroxytoluol (BHT) and pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl- hydroxyhydrocinnamate.
  • BHA butylhydroanisol
  • BHT butylhydroxytoluol
  • Benzophenone 4 may also be used as an antioxidant.
  • Benzophenone-4 normally is an UV filter, protecting the skin from damages caused by UVB and short-wave UVA ultraviolet light. According to the invention, Benzophenone-4 is preferred to be used as antioxidant of synthetic origin.
  • the at least one antioxidant is contained in a total amount of 0.001 to 0.1 % by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.07 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • capsules may be contained in the composition of the present invention. These capsules may contain components, which provide care to the hair, such as oils, vitamins, plant extracts, further active ingredients, protein hydrolysates, and amino acids. Furthermore, the capsules may contain colorants, thus providing the composition according to the present invention with an attractive optical impression. It is preferred, if the composition according to the invention contain capsules comprising silicone compounds, more preferred a mixture of Dimethicone, Vinyl/Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Cyclopentasiloxane. As well more preferred are capsules containing hydrolyzed collagen. Examples of the more preferred capsules may be purchased as Capsulets-TBT-03 from Chongqing Pellets Techniques & Trade Co., LTD or Clear Collagen Capsule from J & C Microchem. Inc.
  • the capsules are contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • solid particles may be contained in the composition of the present invention.
  • Said particles may be chosen from beads, mica powder, dried and crushed flowers, and natural grinded seeds, e.g. apricot seed powder.
  • compositions of the present invention may be contained in the composition of the present invention, as far as they do not interfere with the purpose of the invention.
  • Figure 1 shows the first panel test comparing the inventive compsotion CLEARCON99 with two products in market
  • Figure 2 shows the second panel test comparing the inventive composition CON 1 with a product in market.
  • composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair conditioning composition.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is recommended to use a cold process for preparation:
  • ingredients such as e.g. silicone(s), perfume, emulsifier(s), preservative(s) etc.
  • compositions of the present invention an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer, e.g. a paddle stirrer is used.
  • turbidity values that are disclosed in the present specification have been determined using a turbidity measuring device (2100N TURBIDMETER from HACH), with distilled water with a value of NTI 0.1 serving as standard. The samples were undiluted. NTEi is an abbreviation of Nephelometric Turbidity Ehiit.
  • compositions of the present invention are improved in relation to compositions, which are already in the market, panel tests were conducted.
  • the panelists had the choice between the following statements: The hair feels rough, the hair feels squeaky, the hair feels oily, the hair feels greasy, the hair feels soft, the hair feels supple, the hair feels waxy and the hair feels coated.
  • the evaluation was based on a score of 10 points,“0 point” corresponds to“bad”, and“10 points” corresponds to“very good” with two exceptions.
  • the first exception refers to the property rinsing completed [s] .
  • This property refers to the time necessary to complete the rinsing. The time is counted in seconds, thus the values correspond to seconds.
  • the next exception refers to the property rinseability (30s). This property was evaluated by giving“0 point” corresponding to a rinsing that was“too slow”, and“10 points” corresponding to a rinsing that was“too quick”.
  • compositions CON 1 and CLEARCON 99 were prepared and used in the above described panel test. The results are shown in Tables 3 and 4:
  • the amounts given are referring to raw material content.
  • compositions according to the invention were compared to products already in the market, namely L’Oreal Mythic Oil Sparkling Conditioner, NIVEA Volume Sensation Conditioner, and L’Oreal EL VIVE Fribrology Air (L’Oreal Voluminizing Conditioner), of which the ingredients according to the INCI listing are given.
  • Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside Hydroxyethylcellulose, Behentrimonium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Polyquaternium-lO, Hydroxyethyl Oleyl dimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Myristate, Quaternium-80, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Mica, Cl 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Cl 77491 (Iron Dioxide), Perfume, Cl 160279/2.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne le domaine cosmétique, et concerne une composition de conditionnement capillaire transparente comprenant un système aqueux contenant des constituants épaississants polymères, des polymères amphotères et une sélection de tensioactifs cationiques. La composition peut être utilisée pour apporter de la fraîcheur aux cheveux sans les laisser huileux et/ou gras, et pour aboutir à des cheveux qui peuvent être facilement démêlés et peignés qu'ils soient mouillés ou secs.
PCT/EP2018/078208 2017-11-15 2018-10-16 Composition de conditionnement capillaire transparente et son utilisation WO2019096517A1 (fr)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102020101753A1 (de) 2020-01-24 2021-07-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Klares sprühbares Haarbehandlungsmittel mit sofort eintretender Pflegewirkung

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11497700B2 (en) 2019-09-30 2022-11-15 L'oreal Hair treatment composition

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US4996059A (en) * 1979-11-28 1991-02-26 L'oreal Composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, based on amphoteric polymer and cationic polymer
DE19629951A1 (de) 1995-03-15 1998-01-29 Beiersdorf Ag Haarpflegezubereitung in Form einer transparenten oder transluzenten Mikroemulsion vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser
WO2001091705A1 (fr) * 2000-05-30 2001-12-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition de soin capillaire contenant un agent de lissage
US6528046B1 (en) * 1999-10-22 2003-03-04 Wella Ag Clear hair treatment composition
EP1287811A2 (fr) 2001-08-30 2003-03-05 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Esters d'acide lactique dans des compositions de traitement des cheveux
US20030108504A1 (en) * 2000-05-30 2003-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair conditioning composition comprising silicones and frizz control agents
WO2004058199A1 (fr) 2002-12-23 2004-07-15 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation contenant des saccharides substitues par carbamate et des conditionneurs cationiques
EP2116225A1 (fr) 2008-10-16 2009-11-11 Beiersdorf AG Produit de soin capillaire à rinçage pour l'augmentation du volume de la coiffure
DE102008030131A1 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-31 Beiersdorf Ag Silikone-freie Konditioniermittel für keratinhaltige Fasern
DE102008030136A1 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-31 Beiersdorf Ag Haarkonditionierende Zubereitung mit einer besonderen Mischung kationischer Konditioniermittel
DE102008030139A1 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-31 Beiersdorf Ag Haarspülung mit Silikonemulsion
EP2462918A2 (fr) 2010-07-16 2012-06-13 Beiersdorf AG Agents de conditionnement capillaire à propriétés fixantes

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EP1479368A1 (fr) * 2003-05-21 2004-11-24 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de soin capillaire
US8865147B2 (en) * 2012-04-30 2014-10-21 L'oreal Hair cleansing and conditioning composition

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4996059A (en) * 1979-11-28 1991-02-26 L'oreal Composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, based on amphoteric polymer and cationic polymer
DE19629951A1 (de) 1995-03-15 1998-01-29 Beiersdorf Ag Haarpflegezubereitung in Form einer transparenten oder transluzenten Mikroemulsion vom Typ Öl-in-Wasser
US6528046B1 (en) * 1999-10-22 2003-03-04 Wella Ag Clear hair treatment composition
WO2001091705A1 (fr) * 2000-05-30 2001-12-06 The Procter & Gamble Company Composition de soin capillaire contenant un agent de lissage
US20030108504A1 (en) * 2000-05-30 2003-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair conditioning composition comprising silicones and frizz control agents
EP1287811A2 (fr) 2001-08-30 2003-03-05 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Esters d'acide lactique dans des compositions de traitement des cheveux
WO2004058199A1 (fr) 2002-12-23 2004-07-15 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation contenant des saccharides substitues par carbamate et des conditionneurs cationiques
DE102008030131A1 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-31 Beiersdorf Ag Silikone-freie Konditioniermittel für keratinhaltige Fasern
DE102008030136A1 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-31 Beiersdorf Ag Haarkonditionierende Zubereitung mit einer besonderen Mischung kationischer Konditioniermittel
DE102008030139A1 (de) 2008-06-27 2009-12-31 Beiersdorf Ag Haarspülung mit Silikonemulsion
EP2116225A1 (fr) 2008-10-16 2009-11-11 Beiersdorf AG Produit de soin capillaire à rinçage pour l'augmentation du volume de la coiffure
EP2462918A2 (fr) 2010-07-16 2012-06-13 Beiersdorf AG Agents de conditionnement capillaire à propriétés fixantes

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102020101753A1 (de) 2020-01-24 2021-07-29 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Klares sprühbares Haarbehandlungsmittel mit sofort eintretender Pflegewirkung

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