Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a plant ivory extract (Phytelephas sp.), As well as to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a plant ivory extract, and to a method and device involving this composition.
• the present invention finds application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly cutaneous cosmetics.
• the skin is a vital organ in its own right that consists of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.
• the epidermis The most surface tissue and therefore the most exposed is the epidermis.
• This pluristratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with many barrier and protective functions. The majority cells are the keratinocytes that divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation to the stratum corneum (the outermost layer) and are removed by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days on average.
• the epidermis also includes melanocytes, cells responsible for the pigmentation of the skin. The latter have dendrites, branches allowing the transport of melanin to the surrounding keratinocytes. A melanocyte is in contact with about 40 keratinocytes on average, which forms a pigment unit.
• the major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, a first line of protection against aggression external, such as physical, chemical, waterborne and bacteriological
• This protection is provided in particular by the most differentiated layers and the stratum corneum known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance.
• Good differentiation of keratinocytes and therefore good desquamation are essential for a smooth, homogeneous and even surface. All these mechanisms depend directly on the proliferative capacities of keratinocytes. However, external stresses and age slow down this process, which can become longer and more irregular. The desquamation becomes irregular and / or anarchic, defects of smoothing and homogeneity of surface of the skin settle down.
• pigmentary spots may appear due to the disorganization of melanin, which involves irregularities of color and complexion of the face.
• the dermis is a connective tissue mainly invested with fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its qualities of compressibility and elasticity known. Changes in texture and composition are largely responsible for skin changes that occur during aging. As they age, fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less proliferative. With age, syntheses of macromolecules in the matrix are no longer provided by fibroblasts. In addition, these constitutive macromolecules of the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and to fragment.
• hypodermis located in depth and consisting for the most part of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role in storing energy reserves quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as for example cell renewal, defense of the body or muscle contraction.
• adipocytes fatty lobules
• the present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs and disadvantages of the prior art.
• the inventors are the first to use a plant ivory extract (Phytelephas sp.) To precisely meet the needs mentioned above.
• the term "vegetable ivory” refers to palm seeds from South and Central America belonging to the genus Phytelephas sp. (family of Arecaceae). The albumen of mature seeds hardens and reaches a density, appearance and texture similar to that of animal ivory hence its name “vegetable ivory” (also called tagua or corozo in Latin America) (Nature , Scientific Reports 5, (2015), A Sustainable Substitute for Ivory: The Jarina Seed from the Amazon, Chu et al. ([1])). Etymologically, its botanical name comes from the Greek “phytos” which means vegetal and “elephas” which means elephant because it refers to the seeds whose dimensions are much larger than those of other palms.
• albumen can also be used for animal feed (Seeds and men, Romain Dufayard ([2]) Annals of applied biology (2014), 164, 257-269 Productivity and management of Phytelephas aequatorialis (Arecaceae) in Ecuador ([4])).
• Vegetable ivory seeds Mainly contain 92% polysaccharides which are mainly mannan (mannan A and mannan B). These are mannose polymers which, by hydrolysis, give mainly mannose (between 97-98%), galactose (between 1 and 2%), and glucose (about 1%) (Handbook of nuts, James A.Duke , CRC Press, London, 2001 ([5])).
• the inventors are the first to apply a process of extraction and hydrolysis on vegetable ivory seed polysaccharides (Phytelephas sp.) And to use this extract as an active ingredient for a cosmetic application.
• This plant ivory extract unexpectedly has an effect on the dermal matrix and on the pigmentation and the spots of the skin, the uniformity of the color and the complexion of the skin and to improve the appearance of the skin.
• a first object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a plant ivory extract (Phytelephas sp.).
• the inventors are the first to propose this extract as a cosmetic agent allowing an anti-aging, anti-stain action, uniformity of the pigmentation, homogenization of the color and the complexion of the skin and improvement of the skin. the appearance of the skin of its appendices or mucous membranes.
• the term "anti-aging action” is intended to mean an action for preventing and / or delaying and / or limiting the signs of skin aging, in particular accelerated aging (exogenous) caused by environmental stresses, for example ultraviolet (photo-induced stress), or chronological aging (endogenous stress).
• the anti-aging action can go through an action of regeneration of the skin and / or decrease of the relaxation of the skin or the loss of firmness of the skin or a loss of elasticity of the skin, in particular a prevention and / or or delay and / or limitation of relaxation, and / or firming action and / or improvement of the bio-mechanical qualities of the skin.
• it can promote a firming of the structures of the skin and / or a reduction in the formation of wrinkles of the skin, its appendices or mucous membranes.
• the term "regeneration of the skin” is intended to mean the metabolic stimulation of epidermal or dermal skin cells, the renewal of which is directly or indirectly linked to or targets intrinsic or extrinsic aging.
• this action can make it possible to protect, maintain and / or improve the biomechanical qualities of the dermis, including the firmness, volume, density and strength of the tissue.
• the term "uniformity of the pigmentation and the tasks of the skin” is understood to mean the reduction of the pigmentation, more or less anarchic, forming the skin's tasks, after the use of the extract on the skin. especially via a decrease in melanin synthesis and a better transfer thereof to the keratinocytes.
• the term "improve the homogeneity of the color and the skin tone" is intended to obtain a more homogeneous color after use of the extract on the skin, in particular via a better distribution of the skin.
• this extract also makes it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, in particular it brings an effect of regeneration of the skin, smoothing, softness, improvement of radiance.
• the term "improve the appearance of the skin” is understood to mean any effect that makes it possible to obtain an aesthetic advantage over the appearance of the skin with respect to the appearance of the skin before using the skin. extract according to the invention.
• the cosmetic use of the invention may advantageously make it possible to improve the surface, therefore aesthetic, qualities of the epidermis, such as smoothing the skin and / or softening the skin and / or improving the radiance of the skin.
• smooth skin surface in the sense of the present invention, the qualitative and quantitative reduction of microreliefs of the skin, including their depth. It may be for example the decrease in the depth of wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or streaks.
• the term "softening the skin” is intended to mean obtaining a more silky effect of the skin to the touch after use of the extract, and / or a reduction in the roughness effect of the skin. skin to the touch.
• the term "improving the brightness of the skin” is intended to mean obtaining a brighter skin. This effect can be observed qualitatively, for example visually, or quantitatively, for example by chromametry studies where the L * a * b * components are measured.
• the action of the extract may be an action for restoring, maintaining or strengthening the hydration of the skin, its appendices or mucous membranes, this effect being distinct and complementary to the effects mentioned above.
• annexes refers to the epidermal appendices that originate in the deep dermis, comprising at least one element chosen from the hairs, the nails, the pilosebaceous glands and the sweat glands.
• mucosa is intended to mean in particular external mucous membranes such as the lips.
• the term "vegetable ivy extract (Phytelephas sp.)” Is intended to mean a vegetable ivory extract (Phytelephas sp.) Obtained by any extraction process that allows the polymers to be hydrolyzed to monomers or oligomers soluble; such as enzymatic hydrolysis by a mannase enzyme or chemical hydrolysis with a strong acid.
• the plant ivory extract in the sense of the present invention can also be obtained by the implementation of a partial depolymerization process of polysaccharides described in Patent No. FR1656186 ([6]), in which, the plant used corresponds to vegetable ivory seeds (Phytelephas sp.).
• the vegetable ivory extract (Phytelephas sp.) Is therefore likely to be obtained by a production process comprising the following steps:
• thermo-hydrolysis step in which the constituent polysaccharides of vegetable ivory seeds (Phytelephas sp.) Incorporated in the form of a fine albumen powder of vegetable ivory seeds (Phytelephas sp.) Are brought into contact in an autoclave with water in the subcritical state and carbon dioxide in the supercritical state;
• 2- A step of injecting carbon dioxide at a temperature between 10 ° C and 200 ° C in said autoclave to achieve a pressure in said autoclave between 30 bar and 50 bar;
• the extraction solvent employed in the context of the present invention is water, optionally with a co-solvent of alcoholic (ethanolic) nature.
• the extraction can be conducted at a temperature between 130-150 ° C.
• the extract thus obtained contains a mixture of partially hydrolysed polysaccharides and more particularly oligomers of mannan whose degree of polymerization can be between 1 and 30.
• the extract thus obtained can be purified prior to its implementation, for example in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
• the extract may be maintained in aqueous liquid form with the addition of a preservative which may be selected from Symdiol® (Hexanediol-Caprylyl glyco), phenylethyl alcohol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, Microcare® (mixture of potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate), this list not being limiting.
• the extract may alternatively be dried prior to its use. It may for example be dried by evaporation under vacuum, by spraying, by freeze-drying or by any other appropriate means known to those skilled in the art.
• the extract obtained according to this embodiment is generally in the form of a powder which can be employed as or in a solvent or dispersant to formulate the composition of the present invention.
• the solvent or dispersant may be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1,3-diol, glycerine, water, or a mixture of these solvents. not being limiting.
• the mixtures of these solvents can be made in all possible proportions.
• the extraction solvent may be a eutectic solvent composed of molecules of plant or natural origin, for example chosen from a mixture of glycerin, betaine and water, or a mixture of citric acid, betaine and water, or any other eutectic solvent described in FR3017292 ([7]).
• a cosmetic or dermatological composition in particular an anti-aging composition, comprising a vegetable ivory extract and a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle, said composition comprising 0.00001 to 5.0% by weight. weight of said vegetable ivory extract relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be for example from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, or from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, or from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight or from 0.1 to 5, 0% by weight, or 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, or 2.0 to 4.0% by weight of said vegetable ivory extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the term "cosmetic composition” is intended to mean any composition with a cosmetic aim, that is aesthetic. he may especially be a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and hair systems.
• a cosmetic composition allows, exclusively or mainly, to protect, perfume, maintain in good condition, change their appearance or correct the cosmetic defects surface.
• the term "dermatological composition” is intended to mean any composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for a treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and superficial body growths. like nails, hair, or hair.
• cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle is meant a vehicle adapted for use in contact with cutaneous human and animal cells, in particular the cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio.
• the cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be selected from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol; this list is not limiting.
• composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It may be, for example a simple mixture. It may be alternatively, for example, a method comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be for example a method using Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), this method being conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly thin, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 ⁇ .
• TIP Phase Inversion Temperature
• the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention can be in any form suitable for application cosmetic or dermatological.
• the composition is a composition for topical use.
• the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel, an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion.
• these formulations usable for the implementation of the present invention are known in the state of the art by the formulators. In these examples of composition, it is sufficient to add the vegetable ivory extract of the present invention to obtain a composition according to the present invention.
• the composition may be in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked swab, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm or a butter. , a lotion, a suspension, a soap or an emulsion.
• the extract of the present invention may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with other substances or ingredients that are active or inactive cosmetically or dermatologically.
• Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. It is about the elements of the composition allowing in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to preserve the active extract in the time, this list not being limiting. It can be in other words any basic product that can be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
• the active substances or ingredients are those which in the cosmetic or dermatological application referred to have an aesthetic and / or medical action.
• the plant ivory extract of the present invention may be the only substance or active ingredient in a composition, or it may be associated with other substances or active ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
• the plant ivory extract of the present invention may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition with any active ingredients cosmetically or dermatologically known for its anti-aging properties, for example retinol, hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C, glacial ficoide extracts, collagen, vitamin E, ceramides, oligosides, especially apples, this list not being limiting.
• active ingredients cosmetically or dermatologically known for its anti-aging properties for example retinol, hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C, glacial ficoide extracts, collagen, vitamin E, ceramides, oligosides, especially apples, this list not being limiting.
• the plant ivory extract of the present invention may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition with any active ingredient cosmetically or dermatologically known for its lightening and / or stain-resistant properties, such as for example arbutin, resveratrol , glycolic acid, kojic acid, phytic acid, vitamin C or glabridin, this list not being limiting.
• the plant ivory extract of the present invention may be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition with any active ingredient cosmetically or dermatologically known for its sunscreen properties, such as, for example, titanium oxide or organic screening agents which make it possible to limit UV radaitions, this list not being limiting.
• Another subject of the invention relates to a device that can be in a form chosen from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising an extract or a composition according to the invention.
• Another subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological treatment method making it possible to provide, in particular, an effect of improving the surface qualities of the skin, for example of at least one effect chosen from homogenization of the skin. color, improvement of the complexion, decrease of pigmented spots of the skin, regeneration of the skin, the improvement of the radiance, the smoothing, the softness of the skin, the general aspect of the skin.
• the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin, that is to say skin that does not have a pathological condition, and thus to the exclusion of any therapeutic use.
• any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
• the vegetable ivory extract (Phytelephas sp.) was prepared as follows, and in accordance with the method of partial depolymerization of polysaccharides described in Patent No. FR1656186 ([6]):
• 1-A fine albumen powder of vegetable ivory seeds (Phytelephas sp.), Trade name: LIPO VI (Phytelephas aequatoralis) marketed by the company Vantage Specialty Chemicals is placed in contact, in an autoclave, with water in the subcritical state and carbon dioxide in the supercritical state at a ratio of 1% (powder / solvent, w / w); 2- carbon dioxide is injected at a temperature of 150 ° C into said autoclave to achieve a pressure in said autoclave between 30 bar and 50 bar;
• the partially hydrolysed polysaccharides corresponding to mannan oligomers are recovered in the form of an aqueous extract after returning to the conditions of temperature and atmospheric pressure;
• said aqueous extract is stored in the freezer at -20 ° C.
• said aqueous extract is stored at room temperature after adding either 1% of Symdiol ® or 1% of phenylethyl alcohol.
• Example 2 Effect of vegetable ivory extract obtained in Example 1 on the synthesis of tropoelastine.
• the study of tropoelastin synthesis is carried out on monolayer cultures of fibroblasts cultured in a proliferation medium then treated with vegetable ivory extract (at 0.2% or 1%) for 72 h, in plates.
• plant ivory extract can stimulate the synthesis of tropoelastin up to 63% at a concentration of 1%, and thus improve the biomechanical qualities of the dermis, including elasticity.
• Example 3 Effect of a plant ivory extract obtained in Example 1 on the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes.
• the studies were carried out on normal human keratinocytes and on normal human melanocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, seeded in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a mixture of keratinocyte-SFM medium and supplemented medium 254 ( ratio 4: 1), at a temperature of 37 ° C, under a 5% CO2 atmosphere and saturated with moisture.
• the cells were treated twice with the vegetable ivory extract for 48 hours then 72 hours at 0.003% (see Table II).
• the cells are then recovered, and the melanin transfer is evaluated by co-labeling the keratinocytes with the CD49f antibody (Invitrogen) and melanosomes with an antibody specific for a melanosome protein (Pmel17).
• This co-marking associated with the analysis in flow cytometry allows to specifically quantify the melanosomes that have actually been transferred into the keratinocytes.
• Example 5 Effect of vegetable ivory extract obtained in Example 1 on the activity of transglutaminase.
• the studies were carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, seeded in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a keratinocyte-SFM medium, at a temperature of 37 ° C., under a 5-atmosphere atmosphere. % CO2 and saturated with moisture.
• the cells were treated with the plant ivory extract for 96h at 1% (Table IV). Then the activity of transglutaminase is determined by measuring the incorporation of tritiated putrescine by covalent binding to casein, the casein being then precipitated.
• Vegetable ivory extract 1% 122% Treatment with vegetable ivory extract stimulates transglutaminase activity up to 22% to 1% in keratinocytes. These results show that the plant ivory extract stimulates the activity of transglutaminases in keratinocytes thus promoting their differentiation and modifying the surface appearance of the epidermis.

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• 2017
  • 2017-10-27 FR FR1760154A patent/FR3072878B1/fr active Active
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