WO2018209417A1

WO2018209417A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising plant butter of the genus platonia, preparation process of the said composition, use of the same and cosmetic method

Info

Publication number: WO2018209417A1
Application number: PCT/BR2018/050162
Authority: WO
Inventors: Simone ROCHTASCHEL FOSS; Bruno LUIZ DE OLIVEIRA; Larissa DA SILVA SPEHAR; Laetitia CORINNE FLORENCE GRANDVIERGNE
Original assignee: L'occitane Do Brasil S.A.
Priority date: 2017-05-18
Filing date: 2018-05-18
Publication date: 2018-11-22
Also published as: BR102017010480A2; BR102017010480B1

Abstract

This invention refers to the cosmetic technological sector and involves a cosmetic composition that comprises, among other components, butter prepared from a plant of the genus Platonia, more specifically being of the species Platonia. Such composition object of this invention comprises: - butter of a plant of Genus Platonia; - at least one wetting agent comprising at least one glycol unit; - at least one surfactant selected among: cetearylic alcohol and glyceryl stearate; - at least one emollient selected among: triglyceride capric and caprylic, silicone; - and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. Further, this invention refers to a process of preparation of the said composition as well as use of the said composition and cosmetic method thereof.

Description

Specification of invention patent for "COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING PLANT BUTTER OF THE GENUS PLATONIA, PREPARATION PROCESS OF THE SAID COMPOSITION, USE OF THE SAME AND COSMETIC METHOD"

FIELD OF INVENTION

[001 ]. This invention refers to the cosmetic technological sector and involves a cosmetic composition that comprises, among other components, butter prepared from a plant of the genus Platonia, more specifically being of the species Platonia.

[002]. Further, this invention refers to a process of preparation of the aforementioned composition and the use of the said composition and cosmetic method of application thereof.

STATE OF THE ART

[003]. Platonia insignis (formely, Platonia esculenta) known popularly as Bacurizeiro, Bacuri, Ibacurupari and Mucuri, is a large tree of the family of the Clusiaceae (formerly, Gutiferous). It is native to the region of Guyanas, Brazil (from Amazonia to Piaui), Paraguay and parts of Colombia. Its fruit is named Bacuri, but it is also known as Landirana, Bacury, Bakuri, Pacuri, Pakuri, Pakouri, Packoeri, Pakoeri, Maniballi and Naranjillo. (Source: Wlkipedia)

[004]. Bacuri is one of the most popular fruits of the northern region and the neighbouring states to the Amazon region. It is very much found in the Cerrado region and in some areas of Cocais Forest of Maranhao and Piaui, where the Bacuri is a symbol of the city of Teresina. The fruit measures about 10 cm and presents a hard and resinous shell. Its pulp is white, pleasant aroma and intense taste. The Bacuri is the fruit of the Bacurizeiro (Bacuri tree), which may be:

[005]. - Scheelea Phalerata, Arecaceae, when it is also called Attalea, Aricuri, or Ouricuru. [006]. - Platonia, Clusiaceae, when it is also called Landirana. This fruit is used in the manufacture of sweets, ice cream, pulp and its latex has medicinal use. It's an immature fruit of green, berry-like, globe- colored.

[007]. It is rich in vitamins B1 and B3 and minerals (magnesium, zinc and calcium) and it comprises a number of vitamins D2, E and K and tryptophan, which, in the presence of light, is responsible for the production of serotonin, the neurotransmitter associated with the feeling of well-being.

[008]. It is a deciduous tree of dry season, with 25 to 40 meters high. It has leaves 8 to 15 centimeters long, lanceolate, leathery, pink flowers 5 to 7 centimeters, with 5 petals and numerous stamens. The fruit are large, globous and yellow berries, with yellowish and tasty pulp (especially in para) and yellow Epicarp. The parrot Pionites leucogaster was seen pollinating it: Therefore, the Bacuri tree is a ornithophile species (that is, that attracts birds). (Source: SHANLEY & MEDINA, 2005; MENEZES, 2010; FERREIRA & MEDINA In: LOPEZ; Yamaguchi et al., 2014; SANTOS JUNIOR et al, 2010; Silva et al., 2014; Rego et al., 2015)

[009]. The Bacuri is widely used by the Amazon population. The fruits are consumed in natura or used in the preparation of sweets, jams, liqueurs, etc. The wood, very sturdy, is used in the manufacture of furniture and in shipbuilding and civil (SHANLEY & MEDINA, 2005).

[0010]. The bark of the fruit is used for the production of sweets, after the baking and removal of its resin or even for the production of juice. (MENEZES, 2010). In traditional medicine, the shell is used as a healing remedy for animals (FERREIRA & MEDINA in: LOPEZ).

[001 1 ]. The yellow latex (resin) that sprouts from the wounds of the bark of the trunk is used as glue and as a plasto for the treatment of eczema, herpes and other skin diseases (FERREIRA & MEDINA In: LOPEZ) (YAMAGUCHI et al., 2014).

[0012]. The butter or "lard" of Bacuri is extracted from the seeds and used to combat rheumatism, dermatitis, herpes, eczema and to treat insect bites, spiders and snakes, skin burns, sores, inflammations, ear and lumbar pains. It is also useful for producing soap (MENEZES, 2010) (AGUIAR, 2006) (SANTOS JUNIOR et al, 2010).

[0013]. The decoction of the seeds is used for the treatment of diarrhea and inflammatory diseases (SILVA et al., 2014).

[0014]. The traditional community of Pedra Suada, from the municipality of Cachoeira Grande - MA uses the powder of seeds to treat diseases of the integumentary system (REGO et al., 2015).

[0015]. The fruits mature from January to May. They have the same shape as an orange, but they vary greatly in size, color, shape.

[0016]. The color of the skin varies from golden yellow to yellow-green and has round or oval shape. The fruit is composed of an endocarp fleshy that is semi-solid. If cut, the endocarp will release a yellowish resin that when drying becomes dark. The oily seed when dry contains a dark brown resinous oil of a strong odor.

[0017]. The family Clusiaceae is an important source of molecules of pharmaceutical and industrial interest, and the four main classes of compounds found in this family are xanthones, coumarins, biflavonoids and benzophenones, which are produced by the plant as a mechanism of defense (FERREIRA et al., 2012).

[0018]. The seeds of Bacuri are rich in xanthones, prenylated benzophenones and saturated fatty acids. From the leaves and the shells of the fruit can be extracted essential oil aromatic, of distinct composition. The shells are further rich in several other bioactive compounds, which are present in different composition for each extraction methodology presented.

[0019]. The pulp of the Bacuri is rich in sugars (49.7%), lipids (13.5%), proteins (6.4%) and total ash (2%) (values in dry weight). The lipids are of good nutritional quality, consisting of oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a-linolenic acid, with content of 46.72%, 37.68%, 6.79% and 3.18%, respectively. (ROGEZ et al. _Λ 2004).

[0020]. It is possible to extract an oil from the bark of the fruit, rich in palmitic acid and oleic. In addition, the resin removed from the bark of the fruit and the trunk has been identified as rebellis, which is soluble in alcohol, ethyl esters, sulfuric and petroleum, toluol and benzene (BEZERRA et al., 2005).

[0021 ]. Bacuri shells are rich in resin, oil and phenolic compounds. The extract ethanolic presented potent antioxidant activity, with the ability to reduce the DPPH at 50% at a concentration of 22.49 μΜ/ml. The antioxidant effect was also verified by the ABTS method. It was also noted that the extract of Bacuri shell at 1 μιη/ιτιΙ is capable of absorbing ultraviolet light in the UVB and UVC spectrum, indicating potential photoprotective activity (SILVA et al., 2015 B).

[0022]. It was also found the hypotension action of ethanolic extract of bacuri shells and its ethyl acetate fraction. The fraction showed a more intense hypotension than the gross extract, acting in the a-adrenergic receptors of animal models (MENDES et al., 2014).

[0023]. The seeds are rich in a prooxidant and healing fat. Mutant lineages of Sacharomyces cerevisiae defective in the enzyme superoxide dismutations (therefore, without rust protection), were treated with lard. It was observed that in addition to not inhibit the damage induced by H2O2 they also induced the cytotoxicity in these cells by the suppression of the enzyme superoxide dismutase (COSTA JUNIOR et al., 2007).

[0024]. The action of Bacuri seed extracts was verified against Staphylococcus aureus, a bacterium often related to skin infections (pine).

[0025]. This kind of plant is little studied. So, there are few patent references that mention it, such as:

[0026]. The document US 2012/0276030 describes a coloured cosmetic composition containing a mixture of a solid butter and a dye. It is said that the anhydrous bleached cosmetic composition can also include at least one oily component in addition to the solid butter and dye. The cosmetic composition does not contain any exogenous water added, thus dispensing emulsifiers or chemical preservatives to maintain the stability of the cosmetic composition. It is said that the butter can be of bacuri without specifying the botanical species of this plant.

[0027]. The document BR 0603419-5 describes the use of an isolated compound of the Rheedia brasiliensis, plant known as Bacupari, Bacuri or Bacuripari, as an antimicrobial agent in the treatment and prevention of diseases. Despite referring to Bacuri, it clearly treats a distinct botanical species.

[0028]. The document BR 0804397-3 describes the use of polyprenylated benzophenones isolated from Garcinia Gardnehana, plant known popularly as Bacupari, Bacuri or Bacuripari, as serine and cisteine proteases inhibitor, such as catepsines B and G, proteolytic lysosomal enzymes involved in the spreading and dissemination of tumors and HIV infection, which it enhances such natural products as chemotherapeutic agents. Despite referring to Bacuri, it clearly treats a distinct botanical species.

[0029]. Therefore, there is no, in the state of the art, solution equivalent to that presented here in this invention that combines technical differentials, economic advantages, security and reliability.

OBJECTIVES OF THE INVENTION

[0030]. It is an objective of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising an active from Brazilian biodiversity.

[0031 ]. It is another of the objectives of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition particularly of topical application that offers high hydration of the skin up to 48 hours.

[0032]. It is another of the objectives of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition that, due to its constitution, provides nutrition, regeneration, repair and barrier formation. [0033]. Further, it is another of the objectives of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition that can be used in various formulations and galenic forms.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0034]. This invention achieves these and other objectives by means of a cosmetic composition particularly of topical application comprising:

- butter from a plant of Genus Platonia;

- at least one wetting agent comprising at least one glycol unit;

- at least one surfactant selected among: cetearylic alcohol and glyceryl stearate;

- at least one emollient selected among: triglyceride capric and caprylic, silicone;

- and a vehicle cosmetically acceptable.

[0035]. This invention achieves these and other objectives by means of a process of preparation of a cosmetic composition as described above that comprises the following steps:

a) Separately, heating up at least one wetting agent comprising at least one glycol unit and one vehicle in a first container and in a second container at least one selected surfactant among cetearylic alcohol and glyceryl stearate, butter from a plant of Genus Platonia and at least one emollient selected among triglyceride capric and caprylic, silicone at a temperature that varies between 75 and 80 °C;

b) Mixing the first and second containers;

c) Homogenizing the mixture obtained in step B) in high agitation using a mixer;

d) Cooling the mixture homogenized in step c) until achieving room temperature.

[0036]. Further, this invention achieves these and other objectives by means of a cosmetic method that comprises the following steps:

a) Selecting an area of the skin of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition as described above; c) Waiting long enough to take effect.

[0037]. Further, this invention achieves these and other objectives by means of a cosmetic method that comprises the following steps:

a) Selecting an area of the skin of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition prepared by a process as described above;

c) Waiting long enough to take effect.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0038]. This invention is more detailed on the basis of the attached figure:

[0039]. Figure 1 is a graphic that shows comparatively the degree of hydration of the skin provided by the composition of this invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0040]. This invention refers to a cosmetic composition particularly for topic application, preferably presented as hand cream, foot cream, body deodorant, lotion, lip cream, face cream, and may also present other galenic forms. This composition comprises plant butter of the genus Platonia, more specifically of the species Platonia in addition to other components that, when combined, offer the characteristics and advantages listed further.

[0041 ]. Bacuri butter

[0042]. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the butter of Bacuri or Platonia is prepared with the realization of the following steps:

a. Drying the seeds of Platonia in the sun or circulating air in greenhouses;

b. Heating of said seeds dry;

c. Pressing the said seeds heated;

d. Obtaining oil of the pressed seeds;

e. Filtrating the oil obtained in step D)

f. Cooling the filtered oil;

g. Obtaining Bacuri butter (Butter Platonia) from filtered and cooled oil.

[0043]. The cosmetic composition of this invention comprises from 0.5% to 30.0%, by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 10.0%, in weight, and more preferably from 1 .0% to 5.0% by mass of Bacuri butter based on the total mass of the composition.

[0044]. Surfactant

[0045]. Also called tensoactives, they are substances that decrease superficial tension or influence the contact surface between two liquids. They are usually called emulsifiers or emulgents, i.e. substances that allow the emulsion to be achieved or maintained.

[0046]. In the composition object of this invention, it is used preferably nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant.

[0047]. The cosmetic composition of this invention comprises from 2% to

12%, by weight, more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight of at least one surfactant based on the total mass of the composition.

[0048]. The preferred surfactants to be added to this composition are: cetearylic alcohol and glyceryl stearate.

[0049]. Wetting agent

[0050]. The wetting agents are hydrophilic substances, in general polyhydroxy synthetic compounds, which by their nature protect from the loss of moisture the substrates in which they are applied.

[0051 ]. Wetting agents help the skin maintain its natural humidity because they have the property to retain water in their molecule.

[0052]. In the composition object of this invention, it is used preferably compounds that comprise at least one glycol unit.

[0053]. The cosmetic composition of this invention comprises from 2% to 12%, by weight, more preferably from 3% to 8% by weight of at least one wetting agent based on the total mass of the composition.

[0054]. The wetting agents preferred to be added to this composition are: glycerin and propylene glycol. [0055]. Emollient

[0056]. They act in the epidermis through their hydrophobicity, preventing the dehydration of the skin. The term derives from its action to keep tissues softer.

[0057]. In the composition of this invention, it is preferably used at least one selected emollient among: triglyceride capric and caprylic, silicone.

[0058]. The cosmetic composition of this invention comprises from 2% to 20%, by weight, more preferably from 4% to 15% by mass of at least one emollient based on the total mass of the composition.

[0059]. Other components

[0060]. In preferred embodiments of the present invention, one can add other components such as:

[0061]. - Preservative;

[0062]. - Fragrance;

[0063]. - pH adjuster;

[0064]. - Viscosity adjuster;

[0065]. - Antioxidant;

[0066]. - Sequestrant.

[0067]. This invention presents numerous technical and economic advantages when compared with the state of the art, being some listed below:

[0068]. - The composition object of this invention is indicated for moisturizing the skin of the user, providing hydration per period of up to 48 hours depending on the preferred embodiment chosen;

[0069]. - The composition object of this invention offers for user skin nutrition and repair;

[0070]. - Further, the said composition presents dry, soft and velvety touch;

[0071]. - The composition object of this invention provides protection for skin against dryness since Bacuri butter alters the crystalline structure of the cutaneous barrier, favouring lipid packaging in orthorhombic structure. This means that the cutaneous barrier becomes more cohesive, leaving the skin more protected;

[0072]. - The composition object of this invention presents rapid absorption and rich texture;

[0073]. - The composition object of this invention assists in skin regeneration, more specifically the cornea layer;

[0074]. - It acts as anti-roughness;

[0075]. - The composition of this invention does not present toxicity being safe and effective;

[0076]. - It improves skin quality;

[0077]. - It improves skin nutrition;

[0078]. - It provides the reduction of "Scales" On the skin, which are characteristics of a dry skin;

[0079]. - This invention can be applied for moisturizing the skin and hair.

[0080]. Process of preparation of the invention cosmetic composition

[0081 ]. The cosmetic composition of this invention may be prepared from a process comprising the following steps:

a) Separately, heating up at least one wetting agent comprising at least one glycol unit and one vehicle in a first container and in a second container at least one surfactant selected from cetearylic alcohol and glyceryl stearate, butter of Genus plant Platonia and at least one selected emollient among triglyceride capric and caprylic, silicone at a temperature ranging between 75 and 80 °C;

b) Mixing the first and second containers;

d) Cooling the homogenized mixture in step c) until it achieves room temperature. [0082]. Examples of the cosmetic composition of this invention

[0083]. Further, this invention refers to a cosmetic method of the cosmetic composition of this invention. This method comprises the following steps:

a) Selecting an area of the skin of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition of this invention; c) Waiting long enough to take effect.

[0084]. In a preferred embodiment, the aforementioned cosmetic method comprises the following steps:

a) Selecting an area of the skin of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition prepared by the process of this invention;

c) Waiting long enough to take effect.

[0085]. Tests

[0086]. I. The attributes related to Bacuri butter were evaluated.

[0087]. The first test called "in vivo evaluation" of skin hydration via FTIR- ATR was performed. This test is intended to evaluate skin hydration after continuous use of bacuri butter. In this study, 20 people with extra dry skin and age of 53 ± 5 years participated as volunteers.

[0088]. The volunteers were instructed to apply the Bacuri butter on the forearm twice a day: once in the morning and once in the evening.

[0089]. The results obtained are the following:

Table 1 - Summary data from statistical analysis to Awso/a so:

[0090]. According to the results, it was possible to observe that:

[0091 ]. With the use of Bacuri butter, there was a significant increase (P < 0.05) in the values of reason ai65o/ai55o after 24 hours of the first application, after 3 and 7 days of treatment phase. This indicated that Bacuri butter provided increased skin hydration after 24 hours of the first application, after 3 and 7 days of treatment.

[0092]. For the control (skin without product application), there were no significant variations (P > 0.05) in the values of reason Ai65o/ai55o during the study. This indicated that there were no changes in skin hydration.

[0093]. The comparison between the butter of Bacuri and the control was made by compare the calculated Ah values for each, at each evaluation time, using the T-Student test, not halted, considering a confidence interval of 95%. Analysis is presented in the table below:

Table 2

[0094]. According to the results, it was possible to observe that:

[0095]. The Bacuri butter provided increased hydration of the skin significantly higher (P < 0.05) than the control (skin without product application) after 24 hours of the first application, after 3 and 7 days of treatment phase and after 3 days of after-care. The Butter provided a significant hydration increase of the skin of 9,4% after 24 hours of the first application, 5.8% after 3 days of application and 8.8% after 7 days of treatment, in relation to the base condition.

[0096]. A second test called "in vivo evaluation" of the lipid barrier of the cornea stratum via spectroscopic technique was carried out. This test aims to evaluate, in a quantitative analysis, the lipid barrier of the cornea stratum associated with the orthorhombic and hexagonal structure in the human skin after continuous use of a cosmetic product and to evaluate the lipid organization of the skin. In this study, 20 people with extra-dry skin and age of 53 ± 5 years participated as volunteers.

[0097]. The volunteers were instructed to apply Bacuri butter in the forearm twice a day: once in the morning and once in the night.

[0098]. The results obtained are the following:

Table 3 - Summary data from statistical analysis for 1465 cm ¹ bandwidth:

[0099]. The comparison between average bandwidth values of 1465 cm^" ¹ obtained during the treatment phase and the regression phase were compared to baseline values, applying the method of Anova of variance, with the test of multiple Dunnett and the confidence interval of 95%.

[00100]. There was a significant decrease (P < 0.05) in the bandwidth of 1465 cm^-1 24 hours after the first application, after 3 and 7 days of treatment with the product under investigation. This indicates that the butter of bacuri provided changes in the crystalline structure of the skin, increasing the fraction of the structure orthorhombic 24 after the first application, after 3 and 7 days of treatment phase.

[00101 ]. For the control (Skin without product application), there was no significant difference (P > 0.05) in the bandwidth of 1465 cm^-1 during the study. This indicated that there were no changes in the crystalline structure of the skin.

[00102]. The comparison between the butter of Bacuri and the control was made by compared the calculated values of variation in the bandwidth of 1465 cm^-1 for each one, in each evaluation time, using the T-Student test, not pared, considering a confidence interval of 95%. The summary of this analysis is in the table Below:

Table 4

[00103]. According to the results, it was possible to observe that the butter of bacuri presented changes in the crystalline structure of the skin, increasing the fraction of the orthorhombic structure, significantly higher (P < 0.05) than the control (skin without application of the product) After 24 hours of the first application and after 7 days of treatment phase.

[00104]. This result indicated that the research product increases the formation of the orthorhombic packaging due to its moisturizing capacity when compared to the skin without product application. Further, due to the ability to increase the formation of orthorhombic packaging of the cornea stratum, the butter of Bacuri can provide an improvement in skin hydration and nutrition, fortification and repair of the cutaneous barrier.

[00105]. II. A cosmetic formulation indicated for the area of the feet comprising the composition of this invention was tested.

[00106] . Test 01 - Consumer testing [00107]. In this test 32 women aged between 22 and 59 years with extra dry skin type participated. They have been instructed to apply the product in the area determined every morning or at night, until achieving total absorption.

[00108]. The result achieved follows below:

[00109]. - 100% of volunteers found the product pleasant or very pleasant, showing themselves satisfied;

[001 10]. - 100% of volunteers would indicate this product to a friend;

[001 1 1 ]. - No volunteer reported any discomfort, irritation or intolerance, finding the product suitable for its skin type;

[001 12]. - 100% of volunteer would buy the product.

[001 13]. Test 02 - Instrumental test in normal use conditions

[001 14]. Test 02.1 - Evaluation of skin roughness by image analysis after

28 days of use

[001 15]. All volunteers have been instructed to apply the product on a forearm every day, morning or evening. The other forearm is considered as the control area.

[001 16]. Table 05

Skin Control Treated Significance Meaning

Roughness area area of the between

results individual variations

(Statistical

in% in the difference

treated between the

area control area

and the

treated

field)

DO 16.8 16.3 's^* -14.2% D28 14.3 16.1 's^*

[001 17]. As a result, there is a significant reduction of skin roughness in 28 days of daily use of 14,2%.

[001 18]. Test 02.2 - Evaluation of efficacy in the formation of cap on the skin by TEWL after 28 days of use

[001 19]. All volunteers have been instructed to apply the product on a forearm every day, morning or evening. The other forearm is considered as the control area.

[00120]. Table 6

[00121 ]. As a result, a fortification of 24.4% of the skin barrier was achieved in 28 days of daily use.

[00122]. Test 03 - Instrumental test under controlled conditions

[00123]. Test 03.1 - Evaluation of the effect on the overall quality of the skin by image analysis in a single application

[00124]. 10 women with an average age of 62 years with extra dry skin type participated in this test. The areas evaluated were the legs. ]. Table 7

Statistically significant results Results in 11 valid cases

Statistically significant results Results in 11 valid cases [00126]. As a result, moisturized aspect of skin and significant improvement in skin quality was achieved in up to 48 hours after a single application.

[00127]. Test 03.2 - Evaluation of efficacy in the formation of skin cap by TEWL after 28 days of use

[00128]. 8 women with average age of 62 years and extra dry skin type participated. The areas evaluated were the legs.

[00129]. Table 9

S ^* = Statistically significant results Results in 8 valid cases NS ^* = statistically insignificant results

[00130]. As a result, maintenance/preservation of the skin barrier function was achieved in up to 48 hours after a single application of the product.

[00131 ]. Test 03.3 - Hydration effect assessment after an application

[00132]. 1 1 women with average age of 62 years and extra dry skin type participated. The areas evaluated were the legs.

[00133]. Table 10 Corrected Significance of the results

Hydration values of the (Significant difference

Rate treated area compared to baseline and

in % control area)

T2h + 51 % 's^*

T4h + 46% 's^*

T8h + 44% 's^*

T24h + 8% NS^*

T48h + 6% NS^*

S ^* = Statistically significant results

Results in 11 valid cases

NS ^* = statistically insignificant results

[00134]. As a result, significant hydration effect has been achieved up to 8 hours after a single application.

[00135]. Also, following the same protocols presented above, a second cosmetic formulation was tested, comprising the cosmetic composition of this invention indicated for the care of the hands. The results achieved are the following:

[00136]. Test 01 -Consumer test:

[00137]. - Very good (100% of the volunteers were satisfied to be very satisfied)

[00138]. Test 02 - Instrumental test Under normal conditions of use (28 days):

[00139]. - Significant reduction of skin roughness after 28 days of daily use, in relation to the initial value and the control area.

[00140]. - Significant fortification of the cutaneous barrier after 28 days of daily use, in relation to the initial value and the control area.

[00141 ]. Test 03 - Instrumental test under controlled conditions: [00142]. - Significant improvement of skin quality up to 24 hours after a single application;

[00143]. - Significant moisturized aspect of the skin up to 24 hours after a single application;

[00144]. - It maintains/preserves the skin barrier function up to 48 hours after a single application;

[00145]. - Significant moisturizing effect up to 48 hours after a single application.

[00146]. Also, following the same protocols presented above, a third cosmetic formulation was tested, comprising the cosmetic composition of this invention indicated for the care of the body. The results achieved are the following:

[00147]. Test 01 -Consumer test:

[00148]. - Very good (100% of the volunteers were satisfied to be very satisfied)

[00149]. Test 02 - Instrumental test under normal conditions of use (28 days):

[00150]. - Significant reduction of skin roughness after 28 days of daily use, in relation to the initial value and control area;

[00151 ]. - Significant fortification of the cutaneous barrier after 28 days of daily use, in relation to the initial value and the control area.

[00152]. Test 03 - Instrumental test under controlled conditions:

[00153]. - Significant improvement of skin quality up to 24 hours after a single application;

[00154]. - Significant moisturized aspect of the skin up to 24 hours after a single application;

[00155]. - It maintains/preserves the skin barrier function up to 48 hours after a single application;

[00156]. - Significant moisturizing effect up to 48 hours after a single application. [00157]. III. Skin hydration Test via corneometry

[00158]. 23 women from 25 to 60 years of age were volunteers for carrying out this test. The average age of the group is 49 ± 10 years.

[00159]. The volunteers were instructed to interrupt the use of any cosmetic product on their forearms 48 hours before the start of the study. On the day of the study, the volunteers who reported to the laboratory received explanations of the study procedures, ethical and legal aspects, risks and benefits, medical support and forms of reimbursement for participation costs. Before the measurement begins, the subjects remain for 30 minutes in an air-conditioned environment at 22 ± 2 °C and 55 ± 5% relative humidity. After the stabilization period, the corneometry measures are obtained. The evaluation was carried out before the application of the products, after 15 minutes, 2, 24 and 48 hours of the application.

[00160]. The hydration provided by the application of a cosmetic product can be seen by the increase in the value of capacitance in the capacitor formed between the base of the Corneometer ® probe and the skin. The higher the value of capacitance, the greater the amount of water in the skin and therefore the level of hydration of the skin.

[00161 ]. The variation in skin hydration was calculated from the capacitance values (called h) obtained after the application of the investigational products, in comparison with the baseline measurements. The variation parameter in skin hydration (Ah) has been calculated for products under investigation and control, according to Equation 1 .

[00162]. Equation 1 . Calculation of variation in skin hydration (Ah). Where: hti = Average capacitance measurements obtained after 15 minutes, 2, 24 and 48 hours and hto = average capacitance measurements obtained at the beginning (baseline).

[00163]. From the values of Ah, the hydration parameter (h) and the percentage of skin hydration (h%) were calculated according to equations 2 and 3.

[00164]. Equation 2. Calculation of skin hydration (H). Where: (Hti (Control) and Ahti (product under investigation) = variation in skin hydration calculated for control and product locations under investigation, respectively.

% H_(i = (HexlMyh_t9

[00165]. Equation 3. Calculation of the percentage of skin hydration (% H). Where: Hti = Skin hydration parameter calculated after the application of the investigacional product; hto = average capacitance measurements obtained at the beginning of the study (baseline).

[00166]. According to the results obtained during the study, it was possible to observe that:

[00167]. Products investigated being a simple emulsion comprising butter from a plant of the genus Platonia (first product) and a cosmetic composition of this invention (second product) They provided a significant increase in skin hydration after 15 minutes, 2, 24 and 48 hours of application, when compared to the control (skin without application of any product). This indicates that the products investigated improved skin hydration for up to 48 hours (See Figure 1 ).

[00168]. The second product increased the skin hydration level by 47.2% after 15 minutes, 49.4% after 2 hours, 26.5% after 24 hours and 19.4% after 48 hours of application, in relation to the control and initial condition of the skin.

[00169]. The first product increased the skin hydration level by 20.9% after 15 minutes, 22.9% after 2 hours, 14.6% after 24 hours and 8.3% after 48 hours of application, in relation to the control and initial condition of the skin.

[00170]. The second product provided improved skin hydration significantly higher after 15 minutes, 2, 24 and 48 hours, when compared to first product.

[00171 ]. Having been described as an example of a preferred realization of this invention, it must be understood that the scope of this invention covers other possible variations of the inventive concept described, being limited only by the content of the claims including the possible equivalents.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition particularly for topical application characterized by comprising:

- butter of a plant of Genus Platonia;

- at least one wetting agent comprising at least one glycol unit;

- and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. Composition according to the claim 1 , characterized by comprising from 0.5% to 30,0%, in weight, of plant butter of the genus Platonia based on the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to the claim 2, characterized by comprising from 1 .0% to 5.0% by weight of butter of the Genus plant Platonia based on the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any claim 1 to 3, characterized by the plant butter of the genus Platonia be Bacuri butter.

5. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising from 2.0% to 12.0%, by weight, of surfactant based on the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 5, characterized by comprising from 2.0% to 12.0%, by weight, of wetting agent based on the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 6, characterized by comprising from 2.0% to 20.0%, by weight, of emollient based on the total mass of the composition.

8. Composition according to any of the claims 1 to 7, characterized by being a moisturizing product for body, hands and feet as hand cream, foot cream, body deodorant lotion, lip cream and face cream.

9. Process of preparation of a cosmetic composition as defined in any of the claims 1 to 8 characterized by comprising the following steps:

A) Separately, heating up at least one wetting agent comprising at least one glycol unit and one vehicle in a first container and in a second container at least one surfactant selected from cetearylic alcohol and glyceryl stearate, butter of Genus plant Platonia and at least one emollient selected among triglyceride capric and caprylic, silicone at a temperature ranging between 75 and 80 °C; b) Mixing the first and second containers; c) Homogenizing the mixture obtained in step b) in high agitation using a mixer;

D) Cooling the homogenized mixture in step c) until it reaches room temperature.

10. Cosmetic method characterized by comprising the following steps:

a) Selecting an area of the skin of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition as defined in any of the claims 1 to 8;

c) Waiting long enough to take effect.

11. Cosmetic method characterized by comprising the following steps:

a) Selecting an area of the skin of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition prepared by a process as defined in claim 9;

c) Waiting long enough to take effect.