WO2018115239A1 - Composition comprenant de l'acide hydroxyéthylpipérazine-éthane-sulfonique et au moins un alkylpolyglycoside - Google Patents

Composition comprenant de l'acide hydroxyéthylpipérazine-éthane-sulfonique et au moins un alkylpolyglycoside Download PDF

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WO2018115239A1
WO2018115239A1 PCT/EP2017/084014 EP2017084014W WO2018115239A1 WO 2018115239 A1 WO2018115239 A1 WO 2018115239A1 EP 2017084014 W EP2017084014 W EP 2017084014W WO 2018115239 A1 WO2018115239 A1 WO 2018115239A1
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composition
weight
acid
mixtures
chosen
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PCT/EP2017/084014
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English (en)
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Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS
Sonia EYRAUD
Frédérique Labatut
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin.
  • a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, which has optimized sensory and cosmetic qualities.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • W/O emulsions are useful in cosmetics especially for their ability to form films at the surface of the skin which efficiently prevent transepidermal water loss and give good resistance to contamination with microorganisms.
  • W/O emulsions especially for formulating care creams, remains limited since, firstly, they are generally difficult to implement and, secondly, their sensory nature is often less appreciated by consumers.
  • the implementation difficulties are essentially difficulties in obtaining stable compositions especially on account of interactions, or even incompatibilities, between certain starting materials and most particularly with certain cosmetic active agents.
  • the object of the present invention is to incorporate a desquamating active agent, more particularly hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid (HEPES), in a relatively large amount, without causing any loss of stability of the support formulation, i.e.
  • a desquamating active agent more particularly hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid (HEPES)
  • HEPES hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid
  • radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24 alkyl radical
  • G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably 1 to 4;
  • the present invention is directed toward a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, said composition comprising:
  • radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24 alkyl radical
  • G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably 1 to 4.
  • composition according to the invention has good properties in terms of stability and sensory nature, and also particularly advantageous cosmeticity, which is characterized by a "cushion” effect on application.
  • the term “cushion” effect means that the composition has a thick, creamy texture, spreading easily on the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention is less greasy and less oily under the fingers at the end of application: this is generally referred to as a less greasy and less oily finish than standard W/O emulsions.
  • compositions obtained are stable and homogeneous: no destabilization of the support formulations is observed: in particular, no drop in viscosity, no phase separation, no appearance of crystals and no degradation of the microscopic appearance of the emulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention lead to the production of compositions with a cushion effect and also a sparingly greasy and sparingly oily finish.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of at least one composition in accordance with the invention.
  • composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion, referred to as an inverse emulsion.
  • An inverse emulsion is generally constituted of an oily liquid phase, in this case the continuous phase, and of an aqueous liquid phase, in this case the dispersed phase.
  • an emulsion according to the present invention requires the presence of a surfactant or of an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.
  • composition according to the invention comprises hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid, also known as HEPES, of formula:
  • HEPES the INCI name of which is hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid
  • HEPES the INCI name of which is hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid
  • used in the compositions according to the invention is preferably sold by the companies Applichem and Taiwan Hopax.
  • hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid is present in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, particularly from 2% to 10% by weight and more particularly about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsifying system of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type, having the following structure:
  • radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24 alkyl radical
  • G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10 and preferably 1 to 4.
  • alkylpolyglycoside means an alkylmonosaccharide (degree of polymerization 1) or an alkylpolysaccharide (degree of polymerization greater than 1).
  • the alkylpolyglycosides may be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides.
  • G may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch, and more preferentially denotes glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose.
  • each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in a or ⁇ isomer form, in L or D form, and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside is an alkylpolyglucoside, in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated CI 8 radical) or isostearyl radical (saturated CI 8 radical), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, especially isostearyl glucoside or oleyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside is an alkylpolyxyloside, in which R more particularly represents an octyldodecyl radical, G denotes xylose and x is e ual to 1, of formula:
  • the mixture of alkylpolyglycoside type is present in a content ranging from 0.02% to 10% by weight, particularly from 1% to 5% by weight and more particularly about 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside may be used as a mixture with a coemulsifier, more especially with at least one fatty alcohol, and especially a fatty alcohol comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably a fatty alcohol bearing the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside.
  • the mixture formed by the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type and the fatty alcohol is present in a content ranging from 0.02% to 10% by weight, particularly from 1% to 5% by weight and more particularly about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • alkylpolyglycoside when the alkylpolyglycoside is isostearyl glucoside, it is advantageously mixed with isostearyl alcohol.
  • isostearyl alcohol such a mixture is sold especially under the name Montanov WO 18 by the company SEPPIC.
  • alkylpolyglycoside when the alkylpolyglycoside is oleyl glucoside, it is advantageously mixed with oleyl alcohol, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composit ion, as described, for example, in WO 92/06778.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside when the alkylpolyglycoside is octyldodecyl xyloside, it is advantageously mixed with octyldodecanol.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside is octyl dodecyl xyloside and the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.
  • Such a mixture is sold especially under the name Fluidanov 20X by the company SEPPIC (constituted of about 20% to 30%> of octyldodecyl xyloside and of about 70% to 80% of octyldodecanol).
  • the amount of octyldodecyl xyloside used in the composition according to the invention ranges from 20% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of octyldodecyl xyloside and of octyldodecanol.
  • the amount of octyldodecanol used in the composition according to the invention ranges from 70% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of octyldodecyl xyloside and of octyldodecanol.
  • the mixture of octyldodecyl xyloside and of octyldodecanol is present in a content ranging from 0.02% to 10% by weight, particularly from 1% to 5% by weight and more particularly about 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the alkylpolyglycoside may constitute the main surfactant system of the composition.
  • main surfactant system means a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.
  • main means that any additional surfactant, other than the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type according to the invention, or the mixture of the alkylpolyglycoside according to the invention with a coemulsifier, more especially with at least one fatty alcohol, and especially a fatty alcohol bearing the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside, is present in a content not exceeding 1% and preferably not exceeding 0.5%>.
  • Additional emulsifying surfactant other than the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type according to the invention, or the mixture of the alkylpolyglycoside according to the invention with a coemulsifier, more especially with at least one fatty alcohol, and especially a fatty alcohol bearing the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside, is present in a content not exceeding 1% and preferably not exceeding 0.5%>.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional emulsifying surfactant, preferably chosen from the group formed by polyhydroxystearate esters, polyglycol esters and polyol ethers.
  • the additional emulsifying surfactant used is the polyethylene glycol polyhydroxystearate sold by the company Croda under the name Arlacel PI 35 or the product whose INCI name is PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold by the company Croda under the name Cithrol DPHS-SO (MV).
  • the ratio between the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type according to the invention and the additional emulsifying surfactant is about 4/1.
  • the ratio between the mixture of the alkylpolyglycoside according to the invention with a fatty alcohol, and especially a fatty alcohol bearing the same fatty chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside, preferably the octyldodecyl xyloside/octyldodecanol mixture, and the additional emulsifying surfactant is about 4/1.
  • an oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oily phase means at least one oil.
  • oil7 means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil with a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based ⁇ means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oil means any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made especially of branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Cs-Ci6 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffms)
  • isododecane isodecane
  • isohexadecane isohexadecane
  • the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl branched Cs-Ci6 esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.
  • volatile silicone oils of linear volatile silicone oils, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise a nonvolatile oil. It falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art to select the nature and amount of nonvolatile oil(s) that may be introduced into the composition without impairing the properties thereof.
  • nonvolatile oils may be chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alkyl or polyalkyl ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, or esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate,
  • fatty acid alcohol esters for instance cetostearyl
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2- octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol, - C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
  • non-phenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 40% by weight and preferably from 2% to 35% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one compound that is pasty at room temperature.
  • pasty fatty substance means fatty substances with a melting point ranging from 20 to 55°C, preferably 25 to 45°C, and/or a v iscosity at 40°C ranging from 0. 1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured using a Contraves TV or Rheomat 80 viscometer, equipped with a spindle rotating at 60 Hz.
  • these fatty substances are hydrocarbon-based compounds, opt ionally of polymer type; they may also be chosen from silicone compounds; t hey may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon-based and or silicone compounds.
  • hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups
  • lanolins and lanolin derivatives for instance acetylated lanolins, oxypropyienated lanolins or isopropyi lanolate, with a viscosity of from 18 to 21 Pa.s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and or a melting point of 30 to 55°C, and mixtures thereof.
  • Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols may also be used, especially those containing from 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about from 20 to 35°C and/or viscosity at 40°C ranging from 0.
  • silicone fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) bearing side chains of the alky! or alkoxy type containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and having a melting point of 20-55°C, for instance stearyi dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax at room temperature.
  • the term "wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), ith a reversible solid/liquid change of state, with a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 120°C.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and. or silicone waxes, and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin, in particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 25°C and better still greater than 45°C.
  • the oily phase is gelled.
  • the composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent.
  • lipophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is thus present in the oily phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, silicas, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Particulate gelling agents are advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents, silicas, dextrin esters and polymers containing hydrogen bonding, polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the particulate gelling agent optionally used according to the present invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, dextrin esters, polymers containing hydrogen bonding and the polyamides.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic modified clay.
  • the clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • an alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • They are preferably chosen from hectorites.
  • Hectorites modified with a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38V ® by the company Elementis or bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V ® (87% isododecane/ 10% disteardimonium hectorite/3% propylene carbonate) by the company Elementis, are preferably used as lipophilic clays.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica aerogel particles. a) Fumed silica
  • Fumed silica which has undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment is most particularly suitable for use in the invention. This is because it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be:
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ® by the company Cabot;
  • silicas thus treated are known as "Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 ® and Aerosil R974 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 ® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® by the company Cabot.
  • Hydrophobic silica aerogels are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972 ® and Aerosil R974 ® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 ® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 ® by the company Cabot.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • SM specific surface area per unit mass
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] volume-mean diameter
  • the specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tapped density p ranging from 0.02 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 and in particular ranging from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density may be assessed according to the following protocol: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder and then the measuring cylinder is placed on a Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 packing actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%) and then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder.
  • the packed density is determined by the ratio w/V f, in this case 40/V f (Vf being expressed in cm 3 and w in g).
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • Sv SM X p; where p is the tapped density, expressed in g/cm 3 , and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass, expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes; siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane; or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes
  • siloxanes in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane
  • silazanes so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface- modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the INCI name Silica silylate.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention
  • an example that may be mentioned is the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Such an aerogel advantageously makes it possible to promote the resistance of the deposit to sebum and to sweat.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise as lipophilic gelling agent at least one dextrin ester.
  • the composition preferably comprises at least one preferably C 12 to C24 and in particular C 14 to C 18 fatty acid ester of dextrin, or mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C 12 -C 18 and in particular C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and/or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as the product sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate.
  • This product may be chosen, for example, from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ® , Rheopearl KL ® and Rheopearl ® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
  • polymers containing hydrogen bonding that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made most particularly of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides.
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyamide means a compound containing at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and better still 10 amide repeating units.
  • this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100 000 g/mol, especially ranging from 1000 to 100 000 g/mol, in particular less than 50 000 g/mol, especially ranging from 1000 to 50 000 g/mol and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g/mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g/mol and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I): in which X represents a group -N(Ri) 2 or a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C 22 , alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;
  • the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):
  • X represents a group -N(Ri) 2 in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C22, alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5;
  • the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (lb):
  • X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C22 and preferably Ci6 to C22, alkyl radical which may be identical or different, R 2 is a C 2 s- C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylenediamine radical and n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is Ethylenediamine/stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
  • the silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
  • Ci to C 4 o hydrocarbon- based groups possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,
  • Cio aryl groups optionally substituted with one or more Ci to C 4 alkyl groups,
  • the groups X which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C30 alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms,
  • Y is a saturated or unsaturated Ci to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C3 to Cs cycloalkyl, Ci to C40 alkyl, C5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C3 alkyl, Ci to C3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl groups, or
  • Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which
  • T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
  • R 8 represents a linear or branched Ci to C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer,
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
  • the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150 and is preferably about 100.
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently represent a linear or branched Ci to C40 alkyl group, preferably a group CH3, C2H5, n-C3H 7 or an isopropyl group in formula (III).
  • the silicone polymers and/or copolymers advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • Nylon 6, Nylon 6-6, Nylon 12 or Nylon 6-12 Mention may also be made of the polyamide particles Nylon 6, Nylon 6-6, Nylon 12 or Nylon 6-12, in particular of Nylon- 12 particles, with a mean particle diameter of 20 ⁇ , sold especially by the company Arkema under the trade name Orgasol 2002 D NAT COS 204.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent(s) may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50%) by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • the aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight and preferably from 40% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C 2 -C 32 polyol.
  • ⁇ should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • a polyol in accordance with the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
  • a polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
  • the polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those especially containing from 2 to 32 carbon atoms and preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3- propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, poly glycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, and polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise at least one glycol.
  • Said water-soluble solvent(s) are generally present in the composition in an amount of at least 3% by weight and preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • Hydrophilic gelling agents are generally present in the composition in an amount of at least 3% by weight and preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the aqueous phase is gelled.
  • composition according to the invention may thus comprise at least one hydophilic gelling agent.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin and synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents that are suitable for use in the invention may be natural or of natural origin.
  • the term "of natural origin" is intended to denote polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.
  • These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.
  • these gelling agents fall within the category of polysaccharides.
  • polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.
  • non- starchy polysaccharides examples include carrageenans, in particular kappa carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
  • hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt, such as sodium hyaluronate.
  • Synthetic polymeric gelling agents include hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt, such as sodium hyaluronate.
  • the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.
  • the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent under consideration according to the invention may or may not be particulate.
  • the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.
  • Particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents are advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, and mixtures thereof, especially as defined below.
  • They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
  • They may especially be crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, and which are in particulate form.
  • the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has in the dry or non-hydrated state a mean size of less than or equal to 100 ⁇ and preferably less than or equal to 50 ⁇ .
  • the mean size of the particles corresponds to the mass-average diameter (D50) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.
  • the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with a mean size (or mean diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.
  • crosslinked sodium polyacrylates mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare X100, XI 10 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing.
  • the polymers used that are suitable as aqueous gelling agent for the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS ® ) monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than aqueous ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
  • AMPS ® 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid
  • They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
  • AMPS ® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefmically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS ® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers suitable for use in the invention mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 Bl and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.
  • CTFA name Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
  • ICI name Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide
  • crosslinked acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC;
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from ⁇ , ⁇ - ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.
  • acrylate/Cio-C3o-alkyl acrylate copolymers such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR-1 , Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020 and Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2.
  • modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP ® containing 90% solids and 10%> water, or Cosmedia SPL ® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60%> solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.
  • Cosmedia SP ® containing 90% solids and 10%> water
  • Cosmedia SPL ® as an inverse emulsion containing about 60%> solids
  • an oil hydroogenated polydecene
  • PPG-5 Laureth-5 surfactant
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • (meth) acrylic means "acrylic or methacrylic” .
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941 , 934 P, 980, 981 , 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen ® K, Synthalen ® L or Synthalen ® M.
  • CFA name carbomer
  • Pemulen C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
  • the lipophilic gelling agent(s) may be used in a proportion of from 0.1% to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional compound chosen from fillers, nacres, pigments or active agents, such as moisturizing or antiaging active agents, and sunscreens.
  • Said additional compound is advantageously present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight and particularly from 0.1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nacre.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non- iridescent colored particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or alternatively synthesized, which have a color effect via optical interference.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
  • the nacres in accordance with the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or with iron oxide, and also bismuth oxychloride.
  • such nacres may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one pigment.
  • pigments means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to color and/or opacify the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
  • the composition comprises from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • These pigments may be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder or copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 Os, T13O5, Ti 2 0 3 , TiO, Zr0 2 as a mixture with Ti0 2 , Zr0 2 , Nb 2 0 5 , Ce0 2 , ZnS.
  • These pigments may also be organic pigments.
  • organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanin, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
  • These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may in particular be composed of particles comprising a mineral core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • the term "lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • the pigments may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional filler
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional fillers conventionally used in care and/or makeup compositions and other than pigments and nacres.
  • These fillers are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • fillers of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, give the composition containing them softness and give the makeup result a matt effect and uniformity.
  • these fillers advantageously make it possible to combat various attacking factors such as sebum or sweat.
  • talc talc
  • mica silica
  • silica kaolin
  • poly- -alanine powder and polyethylene powder powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon ® ), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride
  • hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel ® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls ® from Toshiba), polyorganosiloxane elastomer particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules.
  • Use may also be made of particles which are in the form of hollow sphere portions, as described in patent applications JP- 2003 1
  • such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Active agent ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizer, also known as a humectant.
  • the moisturizer is glycerol.
  • the moisturizer(s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 20% by weight or even from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one antiaging active agent.
  • the antiaging or antiwrinkle active agents may be chosen from any active agent that is capable of treating or preventing any sign of aging of the skin. They may be chosen, for example, from free-radical scavengers, keratolytic agents, vitamins, anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents, proteins, fatty acid derivatives, steroids, trace elements, bleaching agents, algal and plankton extracts, enzymes and coenzymes, flavonoids, ceramides, tensioning agents, muscle relaxants and sugars, and mixtures thereof.
  • Free-radical scavengers and antioxidants include phosphonic acid derivatives such as ethylenediaminetetra(methylenephosphonic acid), hexamethylenediaminetetra(methylenephosphonic acid), diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic acid), and salts thereof and in particular the sodium salts thereof; ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and salts thereof such as the sodium salt; guanosine; superoxide dismutase; tocopherol (vitamin E) and derivatives (acetate) thereof; ethoxyquine; lactoferrin; lactoperoxidase, and nitroxide derivatives; glutathione peroxidase; plant extracts with free-radical-scavenging activity such as the aqueous extract of wheat germ sold by the company Silab under the reference Detoxiline; polyphenol-rich plant extracts such as green tea and grape; and mixtures thereof.
  • phosphonic acid derivatives such as ethylenediaminetetra(methylene
  • keratolytic agents examples include a-hydroxy acids and especially acids derived from fruit, for instance gly colic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid, derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof; ⁇ -hydroxy acids, for instance salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n- octanoylsalicylic acid or 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; a-keto acids, for instance ascorbic acid or vitamin C and derivatives thereof such as salts thereof, for instance sodium ascorbate and magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate; esters thereof, for instance ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or sugars thereof, for instance glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; ⁇ -keto acids; retinoids, for instance retinol (vitamin A) and esters thereof, retinal, retinoic acid and derivatives thereof;
  • vitamin B3 or vitamin PP or niacinamide
  • vitamin B5 (tocopheryl nicotinate, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids, 2- chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2- mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine); vitamin B5 (or panthenol or panthenyl alcohol or 2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethylbutanamide), in its various forms:
  • Anti-elastase agents that may especially be mentioned include peptide derivatives, and especially peptides of legume seeds such as those sold by Laboratoires Serobiiquess de Nancy under the reference Parelastyl; N-acylamino amide derivatives described in patent application FR-A-2 180 033, for instance ethyl ⁇ 2-[acetyl(3- trifluoromethylphenyl)amino] -3 -methylbutyrylamino ⁇ acetate and ⁇ 2-[acetyl(3- trifluoromethylphenyl)amino] -3 -methylbutyrylamino ⁇ acetic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • Anti-collagenase agents that may be mentioned include metalloprotease inhibitors, such as
  • EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
  • proteins or peptides
  • hydrolyzates thereof for instance those sold by the company Silab under the reference Tensine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned include polyunsaturated phospholipids including phospholipids of essential fatty acids of soybean, and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of steroids that may be mentioned include DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone, biological precursors thereof, metabolites thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • biological precursors of DHEA especially means ⁇ 5 -pregnenolone, 17a-hydroxypregnenolone and 17a-hydroxypregnenolone sulfate.
  • DHEA derivatives means both the metabolic derivatives thereof and the chemical derivatives thereof.
  • Metabolic derivatives that may especially be mentioned include A5-androstene- 3,17-diol and especially 5-androstene-3p,17P-diol, A4-androstene-3,17-dione, 7-hydroxy- DHEA (7a-hydroxy-DHEA or 7P-hydroxy-DHEA), 7-keto-DHEA, which is itself a metabolite of 7P-hydroxy-DHEA and benzoyl-DHEA.
  • trace elements examples include copper, zinc, selenium, iron, magnesium and manganese, and mixtures thereof.
  • bleaching or depigmenting agents examples include kojic acid and derivatives thereof; hydroquinone and derivatives thereof such as arbutin and esters thereof; vitamin C and derivatives thereof such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; salts such as calcium D pantetheine sulfonate; ellagic acid and derivatives thereof; rucinol; linoleic acid and derivatives thereof; plant extracts, and especially extracts of licorice, of mulberry or of skullcap; glutathione and precursors thereof; cysteine and precursors thereof; the aminophenol-based compounds described in WO-A- 99/10318, for instance N-ethyloxycarbonyl-4-aminophenol, N-ethyloxycarbonyl-0 ethyloxycarbonyl-4-aminopheno 1, N-cho lesteryloxycarbonyl-4-aminopheno 1, N- ethylaminocarbonyl-4-aminophenol; phenyle
  • Algal extracts that may be mentioned include extracts of red or brown algae, for example the extract of brown algae of the laminaria family, for instance extracts of the species Laminaria digitata, and more particularly the product sold by the company Codif under the name Phycosaccharides, which is a concentrated solution of an oligosaccharide comprising a sequence of two uric acids: mannuronic acid and guluronic acid.
  • a plankton extract that may be mentioned is plankton in aqueous dispersion (CTFA name: Vitreoscilla Ferment) sold under the name Mexoryl SAH by the company Chimex.
  • Enzymes that may be used include any enzyme of animal or microbiological origin (bacterial, fungal or viral) or of synthetic origin (obtained by chemical or biotechnological synthesis), in pure crystalline form or in a form diluted in an inert diluent. Examples that may be mentioned include lipases, proteases, phospho lipases, laccases, cellulases, peroxidases, especially lactoperoxidases, catalases, superoxide dismutases, or plant extracts containing the abovementioned enzymes, and mixtures thereof. They may be chosen, for example, from the products sold under the trade name Subtilisin SP 554 by the company Novo Nordisk and the products sold under the trade name Lysoveg LS by the company Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss de Nancy.
  • Coenzymes that may especially be used include ubiquinone or coenzyme Q10 which belongs to the alkylene-chain benzoquinone family, coenzyme R, which is biotin (or vitamin H), and mixtures thereof.
  • flavonoids examples include isoflavonoids, which constitute a subclass of flavonoids, formed from a 3-phenylchroman backbone which may comprise varied substituents and different oxidation levels.
  • isoflavonoid includes several classes of compounds, among which mention may be made of isoflavones, isoflavanones, rotenoids, pterocarpans, isoflavanes, isoflavan-3-enes, 3-arylcoumarins, 3-aryl-4-hydroxycoumarins, coumestanes, coumaronochromones, a- methyldeoxybenzoins and 2-arylbenzofurans, and mixtures thereof.
  • the isoflavonoids may be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • natural origin refers to an isoflavonoid in pure form or in solution at various concentrations, obtained via various extraction processes from an element, generally a plant, of natural origin.
  • synthetic origin refers to an isoflavonoid in pure form or in solution at various concentrations, obtained via chemical synthesis.
  • Isoflavonoids of natural origin include daidzine, genistine, daidzein, formononetine, cuneatine, genistein, isoprunetine and prunetine, cajanine, orobol, pratensein, santal, junipegenin A, glycitein, afrormosine, retusine, tectorigenin, irisolidone, jamaicine, and also analogs and metabolites thereof.
  • Ceramides that may be used include any ceramide of natural or synthetic origin, for example of type II, of type III, of type IV, of type V or of type VI, and mixtures thereof.
  • ceramides that may be mentioned include N- oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoylphytosphingosine, N-a- hydroxybehenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-a-hydroxypalmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N- linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N- stearoyldihydrosphingosine and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, and mixtures thereof.
  • tensioning agents examples include:
  • the synthetic polymers that may be used as tensioning agent may be chosen from:
  • - water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible units and units with an LCST (Lower Critical Solution Temperature).
  • the polyurethane copolymers, acrylic copolymers and the other synthetic polymers that may be used as tensioning agents may be chosen especially from polycondensates, hybrid polymers and interpenetrating polymer networks (IPNs).
  • IPNs interpenetrating polymer networks
  • the term "interpenetrating polymer network” means a mixture of two interlaced polymers, obtained by simultaneous polymerization and/or crosslinking of two types of monomer, the mixture obtained having a single glass transition temperature. Examples of IPNs that are suitable for use as tensioning polymers, and also the process for preparing them, are described, for example, in US-A-6 139 322 and US-A-6 465 001.
  • the IPN comprises at least one polyacrylic polymer, and more preferentially it also comprises at least one polyurethane or a copolymer of vinylidene fluoride and of hexafluoropropylene.
  • the IPN comprises a polyurethane polymer and a polyacrylic polymer.
  • Such IPNs are especially those of the Hybridur series sold by the company Air Products.
  • An IPN that is particularly preferred as tensioning polymer is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles with a weight-average size of between 90 and 110 nm and a number-average size of about 80 nm.
  • This IPN preferably has a glass transition temperature, Tg, which ranges from about -60°C to +100°C.
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • An IPN of this type is especially sold by the company Air Products under the trade name Hybridur X- 01602.
  • Hybridur XI 8693-21 or Hybridur 875 Polymer Dispersion is referenced Hybridur XI 8693-21 or Hybridur 875 Polymer Dispersion.
  • they are commercially available in the form of a colloidal dispersion in water, in a ratio of the fluorinated copolymer to the acrylic polymer of between 70/30 and 75/25, under the trade names Kynar RC-10147 and Kynar RC-10151 from the company Atofina.
  • grafted silicone polymers are indicated in EP-A-1 038 519, which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • a preferred example of a grafted silicone polymer is polysilicone-8 (CTFA name), which is a dimethylsiloxane onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polyalkyl (meth)acrylate type.
  • CTFA name polysilicone-8
  • a polymer of this type is especially available under the trade name VS 80 (at 10% in water) or LO 21 (in pulverulent form) from the company 3M. It is a copolymer of polydimethylsiloxane bearing propylthio groups, of methyl acrylate, of methyl methacrylate and of methacrylic acid.
  • the abovementioned synthetic polymers may be in latex form.
  • suitable latex that may be used as a tensioning agent
  • dispersions of polyester-polyurethane and of polyether-polyurethane such as the products sold under the names Avalure UR410 and UR460 by the company Noveon, and under the names Neorez R974, Neorez R981 and Neorez R970, and also acrylic copolymer dispersions such as the products sold under the name Neocryl XK-90 by the company Avecia.
  • synthetic polymers that are suitable as tensioning polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible units and comprising units with an LCST, said units with an LCST having, in particular, a demixing temperature in water of from 5 to 40°C at a mass concentration of 1%.
  • This type of polymer is more fully described in FR-A-2 819 429.
  • the polymers of natural origin that may be used as tensioning agent may be chosen from:
  • microgels such as starch
  • the polysaccharides that may be used as a tensioning agents may be chosen from polysaccharides of natural origin, which are capable of forming heat-reversible or crosslinked gels and also solutions.
  • heat-reversible refers to the fact that the gel state of these polymer solutions is obtained reversibly, once the solution has cooled below the characteristic gelation temperature of the polysaccharide used.
  • polysaccharides of natural origin of this type mention may be made of carrageenans and most particularly of kappa-carrageenan and iota-carrageenan; agars; gellans; alginates; pectins; chitosans and derivatives thereof; pullulans and derivatives thereof.
  • tensioning polysaccharides may be present in the form of microgels as described in FR-A-2 829 025.
  • the polysaccharides may also be chosen from starch and derivatives thereof.
  • the starch may be of any origin: for example rice, corn, potato, cassava, pea, wheat, oat, and it may be natural or optionally modified via a treatment such as crosslinking, acetylation or oxidation. It may be optionally grafted.
  • a treatment such as crosslinking, acetylation or oxidation. It may be optionally grafted.
  • starch that may be used as tensioning agent an example that may be mentioned is the product sold by the company Lambert-Riviere under the name Remi Dri.
  • Another class of tensioning agents that may be used according to the invention is constituted of mixed silicates.
  • This term refers to all silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline-earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca) and transition metals.
  • Use is preferably made of phyllo silicates, namely silicates with a structure in which the Si0 4 tetrahedra are organized in leaflets between which the metal cations are enclosed.
  • a family of silicates that is particularly preferred as tensioning agents is the laponite family.
  • Laponites are sodium lithium magnesium silicates which have a layer structure similar to that of montmorillonites.
  • Laponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral known as hectorite. Use may be made, for example, of the laponite sold under the name Laponite XLS or Laponite XLG by the company Rockwood.
  • Yet another class of tensioning agents is constituted of wax microparticles.
  • the melting point of the wax or of the mixture of waxes is preferably between 50°C and 150°C.
  • colloidal particles means colloidal particles dispersed in an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic medium, with a number-average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm.
  • mineral fillers that may be mentioned include silica, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
  • a mineral filler that is particularly preferred is silica.
  • Colloidal silica particles are especially available in the form of an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica from the company Catalysts & Chemicals under the trade names Cosmo S-40 and Cosmo S-50. Use may also be made of silica-alumina composite colloidal particles, such as those sold by the company Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.
  • sapogenins see, for example, EP-A-1 352 643
  • adenosine see patent application FR 0 214 828
  • calcium channel-associated receptor antagonists see patent application FR-A-2 793 681 and in particular manganese and salts thereof (see patent application FR-A-2 809
  • Sugars that may be mentioned include monosaccharides such as D- mannose, L-rhamnose, polysaccharides, C-glycosides and derivatives thereof, such as C-
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent.
  • compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.
  • compositions are Compositions:
  • phase B The components of phase B are weighed out and heated at a temperature necessary to dissolve them: the phase obtained is homogeneous.
  • phase A The components of phase B are weighed out and heated at a temperature necessary to dissolve them: the phase obtained is homogeneous.
  • phase Al The components of phase Al are weighed out and the gelling agent (phase A2) is then dispersed, followed by stirring with a Rayneri blender so as to obtain gelation of phase A.
  • Phase B is poured into phase A with slow stirring (300 rpm) so as to gradually incorporate the fatty phase. When there is no more fatty phase at the surface, faster stirring is applied.
  • Phase E is added with gentle stirring (300 rpm) and the speed is then gradually increased (500 rpm).
  • Composition 1 in accordance with the invention has a cushion effect that is not observed with comparative composition 2.
  • composition according to the invention is less greasy and less oily under the fingers at the end of application than the comparative composition.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, en particulier une composition cosmétique, plus particulièrement pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques, telles que la peau, sous la forme d'une émulsion d'eau-dans-l'huile comprenant une phase aqueuse dispersée dans une phase huileuse, ladite composition comprenant de l'acide hydroxyéthylpipérazine-éthane-sulfonique et au moins un alkylpolyglycoside.
PCT/EP2017/084014 2016-12-23 2017-12-21 Composition comprenant de l'acide hydroxyéthylpipérazine-éthane-sulfonique et au moins un alkylpolyglycoside WO2018115239A1 (fr)

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FR1663320 2016-12-23
FR1663320A FR3061002B1 (fr) 2016-12-23 2016-12-23 Composition comprenant de l’acide hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonique et au moins un alkylpolyglucoside

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WO2019243613A1 (fr) * 2018-06-22 2019-12-26 L' Oreal Émulsion comprenant un alkylpolyglycoside et des nacres, et procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin l'utilisant
FR3082745A1 (fr) * 2018-06-22 2019-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion eau-dans-huile comprenant un alkylpolyglycoside, des nacres et procede de maquillage et/ou de soin la mettant en œuvre
CN112120962A (zh) * 2020-09-30 2020-12-25 广州市逸轩精细化工有限公司 手足膜及其制备方法
EP4189023A4 (fr) * 2020-07-31 2024-03-20 Dow Global Technologies Llc Dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymères, microsphères et particules de silice colloïdale

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FR3130135A1 (fr) 2021-12-15 2023-06-16 L'oreal Emulsion eau-dans-huile sans composés siliconés comprenant un tensioactif alkylpolyglucoside, un tensioactif mono- et di-esters polyéthoxylés d’acides hydroxylés, des huiles esters et des cires hydrocarbonées esters

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WO2019243613A1 (fr) * 2018-06-22 2019-12-26 L' Oreal Émulsion comprenant un alkylpolyglycoside et des nacres, et procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin l'utilisant
FR3082745A1 (fr) * 2018-06-22 2019-12-27 L'oreal Emulsion eau-dans-huile comprenant un alkylpolyglycoside, des nacres et procede de maquillage et/ou de soin la mettant en œuvre
EP4189023A4 (fr) * 2020-07-31 2024-03-20 Dow Global Technologies Llc Dispersion aqueuse de particules de polymères, microsphères et particules de silice colloïdale
CN112120962A (zh) * 2020-09-30 2020-12-25 广州市逸轩精细化工有限公司 手足膜及其制备方法
CN112120962B (zh) * 2020-09-30 2023-03-31 广州市逸轩精细化工有限公司 手足膜及其制备方法

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FR3061002B1 (fr) 2019-05-24

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