WO2017181707A1 - 纬编弹力麂皮绒面料 - Google Patents

纬编弹力麂皮绒面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017181707A1
WO2017181707A1 PCT/CN2016/111278 CN2016111278W WO2017181707A1 WO 2017181707 A1 WO2017181707 A1 WO 2017181707A1 CN 2016111278 W CN2016111278 W CN 2016111278W WO 2017181707 A1 WO2017181707 A1 WO 2017181707A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
layer
elastic
weft
yarn
suede
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PCT/CN2016/111278
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
仲柏俭
沈松
张新杰
谢鲜锋
何云贵
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江苏聚杰微纤纺织科技集团有限公司
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Priority to DE212016000080.2U priority Critical patent/DE212016000080U1/de
Publication of WO2017181707A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017181707A1/zh

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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads

Definitions

  • the present application relates to a suede fabric, for example, to a weft-knitted suede fabric.
  • Weft suede is a kind of knitted suede. Most of them use polyester low-elastic yarn and spandex yarn (or high-shrinkage yarn) as the raw material of the veil. High-shrinkage yarn is used as the connecting yarn, and polyester low-elastic yarn is used as the bottom. Yarn, obtained by the weaving process of double rib structure, in which the connecting wire is mostly made of tuck.
  • the weft-knitted suede fabric weight in the related art is mainly concentrated below 300 g/m 2 , although the composite method can be used for thickening and weight gain, but the composite fabric has a large feel and style. discount. With the increasing trend of knitted outerwear, weft-knitted suede fabrics have become a new trend.
  • the present application provides a weft-knitted elastic suede fabric to overcome the disadvantages of low weight in the suede fabric of the related art.
  • the embodiment of the present application provides a weft-knitted elastic suede fabric, comprising: an upper surface layer, an intermediate layer and a lower surface layer;
  • the upper surface layer is a suede layer
  • the intermediate layer is a low elastic wire connecting layer
  • the lower surface layer is a low elastic layer
  • the suede layer is woven from the island silk and the first spandex; the low-elastic connection layer is low by the first polyester The elastic filament is woven; and the low elastic silk layer is woven from the second polyester low elastic yarn and the second spandex yarn.
  • the weft knitted elastic suede fabric is in order from top to bottom: island silk, first spandex, first polyester low elastic yarn Second polyester Polyester low elastic yarn and second spandex yarn.
  • the line length of the island yarn and the first spandex yarn of the suede layer are both 135 mm/50 N; the low elastic wire connecting layer
  • the line length of the first polyester low elastic yarn is 120 mm/50 N; the length of the second polyester low elastic yarn and the second spandex yarn of the low elastic silk layer are both 120 mm/50N.
  • the first spandex of the suede layer has a draw ratio of 1:3.2.
  • the second spandex filament stretch ratio of the low elastic silk layer is 1:3.2.
  • the weft-knitted suede fabric has a basis weight of 325-395 g/m 2 and a width of 148-152 cm.
  • the weft-knitted suede fabric of the embodiment of the present invention can overcome the defects of low weight in the suede fabric of the related art, and has the advantages of fullness, thickness, excellent hygroscopicity, excellent elasticity, and soft and delicate hand feeling.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an embodiment of a weft-knitted elastic suede fabric according to an embodiment of the present application
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the weaving process of the weft knitted elastic suede fabric in the weaving process according to the embodiment of the present application.
  • the weft-knitted elastic suede fabric of the embodiment of the present application includes an upper surface layer 10, an intermediate layer 20, and a lower surface layer 30 which are sequentially stacked.
  • the weft-knitted suede fabric has a basis weight of 325-395 g/m 2 and a width of 148-152 cm.
  • the upper surface layer 10 is a suede layer
  • the intermediate layer 20 is a low elastic wire connecting layer
  • the lower surface layer 30 is a low elastic layer.
  • the upper surface layer 10 and the lower surface layer 20 are both plain weave, and the upper and lower surface layers are elastic.
  • the suede layer is woven from a sea-island yarn and a first spandex yarn, wherein the island-in-the-sea yarn is located above the first spandex yarn, and the island layer and the first layer of the suede layer
  • the filament length of the spandex yarn was 135 mm/50 N, and further, the first spandex yarn of the suede layer had a draw ratio of 1:3.2.
  • the low elastic wire connecting layer is woven from the first polyester low elastic wire for connecting the upper layer of the suede layer and the lower layer of the low elastic layer.
  • the first polyester low elastic wire of the low elastic wire connecting layer has a line length of 120 mm/50N.
  • the low elastic wire layer is woven from a second polyester low elastic wire and a second spandex wire, wherein the second polyester low elastic wire is located above the second spandex wire, the low elastic
  • the second polyester low elastic filament and the second spandex filament of the silk layer have a line length of 120 mm/50 N, and further, the second spandex filament of the low elastic layer has a draw ratio of 1:3.2.
  • the model of the island silk in the suede layer, the low-elastic connection layer and the low-elastic layer, the model of the island silk may be selected as 105D/36F, and the model of the first spandex and the second spandex may be 40D.
  • the first polyester low elastic wire and the second polyester low elastic wire may be selected as 75D/36F.
  • the weft knitted elastic suede fabric is in order from top to bottom: island silk, first spandex, first polyester low elastic yarn, second polyester low elastic yarn and second spandex yarn.
  • the diameter of the tube is 34 inches, the machine It is woven on a 28-needle double-sided circular weft machine and then washed, opened, dehydrated, pre-scheduled, dyed, shaped and inspected.
  • the weft-knitted suede fabric of the present application can overcome the defects of low weight in the suede fabric of the related art, and has the advantages of fullness, thickness, excellent moisture absorption, excellent elasticity, and soft and delicate hand feeling. .
  • the embodiment of the present application provides a weft-knitted elastic suede fabric, which can overcome the defects of low weight in the suede fabric of the related art, and has rich and thick, excellent hygroscopicity. Excellent elasticity and soft and delicate hand feeling.

Abstract

一种纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，包括依次层叠设置的：上表面层、中间层以及下表面层；其中，所述上表面层为麂皮绒层，所述中间层为低弹丝连接层以及所述下表面层为低弹丝层。

Description

纬编弹力麂皮绒面料 技术领域
本申请涉及一种麂皮绒面料，例如涉及一种纬编弹力麂皮绒面料。
背景技术
纬编麂皮绒(weft suede)是针织麂皮绒的一种，大多采用涤纶低弹丝和氨纶丝(或高收缩丝)作为面纱原料，高收缩丝作为连接纱，涤纶低弹丝作为底纱，通过双罗纹组织的编织工艺得到，其中的连接丝多采用集圈组织。
相关技术中的纬编弹力麂皮绒的面料克重主要集中在300g/m2以下，虽然可以采用复合的方式对进行增厚和增重，但是复合后的织物在手感和风格上就会大打折扣。随着针织外衣化趋势的与日俱增，纬编弹力麂皮绒面料成为一种新的趋势。
发明内容
本申请提供一种纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，以克服相关技术中的麂皮绒面料中克重较低的缺陷。
本申请实施例提供一种纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，包括依次层叠设置的：上表面层、中间层以及下表面层；
其中，所述上表面层为麂皮绒层，所述中间层为低弹丝连接层以及所述下表面层为低弹丝层。
可选的，作为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的改进，所述麂皮绒层由海岛丝和第一氨纶丝编织而成；所述低弹丝连接层由第一涤纶低弹丝编织而成；以及所述低弹丝层由第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝编织而成。
可选的，作为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的改进，所述纬编弹力麂皮绒面料自上而下依次为：海岛丝、第一氨纶丝、第一涤纶低弹丝、第二涤 纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝。
可选的，作为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的改进，所述麂皮绒层的海岛丝和第一氨纶丝的线长均为135mm/50N；所述低弹丝连接层的第一涤纶低弹丝的线长为120mm/50N；所述低弹丝层的第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝的线长均为120mm/50N。
可选的，作为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的改进，所述麂皮绒层的第一氨纶丝的拉伸比为1∶3.2。
可选的，作为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的改进，所述低弹丝层的第二氨纶丝拉伸比为1∶3.2。
可选的，作为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的改进，所述纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的克重为325-395g/m2以及幅宽为148-152cm。
本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料能够克服相关技术中的麂皮绒面料中克重较低的缺陷，并具有丰满厚实、吸湿性优良、弹性优异以及手感柔软细腻的优点。
附图说明
为了更清楚地说明本申请实施例相关技术中的技术方案，下面将对实施例或相关技术描述中所需要使用的附图作简单地介绍，下面描述中的附图仅仅是本申请中记载的一些实施例，对于本领域普通技术人员来讲，还可以根据这些附图获得其他的附图。
图1为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料一实施方式的截面示意图；
图2为本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料在编织时的编织过程示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图所示的实施方式对本申请进行说明，这些实施方式并非对本 申请的限制，本领域普通技术人员根据这些实施方式所作的功能、方法、或者结构上的等效变换或替代，均属于本申请的保护范围之内。在不冲突的情况下，实施例和实施例中的特征可以相互任意组合。
如图1所示，本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料包括依次层叠设置的：上表面层10、中间层20以及下表面层30。可选的，所述纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的克重为325-395g/m2，幅宽为148-152cm。
其中，所述上表面层10为麂皮绒层，所述中间层20为低弹丝连接层，所述下表面层30为低弹丝层。可选的，所述上表面层10和下表面层20均为平纹组织、且上下表面层都具有弹性。
可选的，所述麂皮绒层由海岛丝和第一氨纶丝编织而成，其中，所述海岛丝位于所述第一氨纶丝之上，所述麂皮绒层的海岛丝和第一氨纶丝的线长均为135mm/50N，此外，所述麂皮绒层的第一氨纶丝的拉伸比为1∶3.2。
可选的，所述低弹丝连接层由第一涤纶低弹丝编织而成，用于连接所述上层的麂皮绒层和下层的低弹丝层。其中，所述低弹丝连接层的第一涤纶低弹丝的线长为120mm/50N。
可选的，所述低弹丝层由第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝编织而成，其中，所述第二涤纶低弹丝位于所述第二氨纶丝之上，所述低弹丝层的第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝的线长均为120mm/50N，此外，所述低弹丝层的第二氨纶丝拉伸比为1∶3.2。
上述实施方式中，麂皮绒层、低弹丝连接层以及低弹丝层中，涉及的海岛丝的型号可选为105D/36F，第一氨纶丝和第二氨纶丝的型号可选为40D，第一涤纶低弹丝和第二涤纶低弹丝的型号可选为75D/36F。可选的，所述纬编弹力麂皮绒面料自上而下依次为：海岛丝、第一氨纶丝、第一涤纶低弹丝、第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝。
下面结合生产工艺，对本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料进行说明。
本申请实施例的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的生产过程中，在筒径为34英寸，机 号为28针的双面圆纬机上编织而成，而后经过水洗、开纤、脱水、预定、印染、定型以及检验而成。
配合参照图2所示，在筒径为34英寸，机号为28针的双面圆纬机上编织时，在第1、4路穿75D/36F第二涤纶低弹丝和40D第二氨纶丝，在第2、5路穿105D/36F海岛丝和40D第一氨纶丝，在第3、6路穿75D/36F第一涤纶低弹丝，上机参数如下表1所示：
Figure PCTCN2016111278-appb-000001
表1
综上所述，本申请的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料能够克服相关技术中的麂皮绒面料中克重较低的缺陷，并具有丰满厚实、吸湿性优良、弹性优异以及手感柔软细腻的优点。
对于本领域技术人员而言，显然本申请不限于上述示范性实施例的细节，能够以其他的形式实现本申请。因此，无论从哪一点来看，均应将实施例看作是示范性的，而且是非限制性的，本申请的范围由所附权利要求而不是上述说明限定，因此旨在将落在权利要求的等同要件的含义和范围内的所有变化囊括在本申请内。不应将权利要求中的任何附图标记视为限制所涉及的权利要求。
此外，应当理解，虽然本说明书按照实施方式加以描述，但并非每个实施方式仅包含一个独立的技术方案，说明书的这种叙述方式仅仅是为清楚起见，本领域技术人员应当将说明书作为一个整体，每个实施例中的技术方案也可以 经适当组合，形成本领域技术人员可以理解的其他实施方式。
工业实用性
本申请实施例提供一种纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，该纬编弹力麂皮绒面料能够克服相关技术中的麂皮绒面料中克重较低的缺陷，并具有丰满厚实、吸湿性优良、弹性优异、手感柔软细腻的优点。

Claims (7)

  1. 一种纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，包括依次层叠设置的：上表面层、中间层以及下表面层；
    其中，所述上表面层为麂皮绒层，所述中间层为低弹丝连接层以及所述下表面层为低弹丝层。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，其中，所述麂皮绒层由海岛丝和第一氨纶丝编织而成；所述低弹丝连接层由第一涤纶低弹丝编织而成；以及所述低弹丝层由第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝编织而成。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，其中，所述纬编弹力麂皮绒面料自上而下依次为：海岛丝、第一氨纶丝、第一涤纶低弹丝、第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝。
  4. 根据权利要求2所述的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，其中，所述麂皮绒层的海岛丝和第一氨纶丝的线长均为135mm/50N；所述低弹丝连接层的第一涤纶低弹丝的线长为120mm/50N；以及所述低弹丝层的第二涤纶低弹丝和第二氨纶丝的线长均为120mm/50N。
  5. 根据权利要求2所述的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，其中，所述麂皮绒层的第一氨纶丝的拉伸比为1∶3.2。
  6. 根据权利要求2所述的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，其中，所述低弹丝层的第二氨纶丝拉伸比为1∶3.2。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的纬编弹力麂皮绒面料，其中，所述纬编弹力麂皮绒面料的克重为325-395g/m2以及幅宽为148-152cm。
PCT/CN2016/111278 2016-04-19 2016-12-21 纬编弹力麂皮绒面料 WO2017181707A1 (zh)

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CN205767858U (zh) * 2016-04-19 2016-12-07 江苏聚杰微纤纺织科技集团有限公司 一种厚重型纬编弹力麂皮绒面料
CN107541849A (zh) * 2017-08-21 2018-01-05 上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司 一种弹性针织面料及其织造方法
CN108716054A (zh) * 2018-05-07 2018-10-30 利郎(中国)有限公司 一种新型羽绒直充面料及其生产工艺
CN108708054B (zh) * 2018-06-07 2020-12-08 江苏聚杰微纤科技集团股份有限公司 一种纬编尼龙单面绒织物的生产方法
CN108754802A (zh) * 2018-06-08 2018-11-06 江苏聚杰微纤科技集团股份有限公司 吸水速干的保暖麂皮绒面料的编织方法

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