WO2017148180A1 - 一种迷迭香保湿水及其制作方法 - Google Patents

一种迷迭香保湿水及其制作方法 Download PDF

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WO2017148180A1
WO2017148180A1 PCT/CN2016/105849 CN2016105849W WO2017148180A1 WO 2017148180 A1 WO2017148180 A1 WO 2017148180A1 CN 2016105849 W CN2016105849 W CN 2016105849W WO 2017148180 A1 WO2017148180 A1 WO 2017148180A1
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rosemary
water
ethanol
moisturizing
pearl
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PCT/CN2016/105849
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English (en)
French (fr)
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郭建钊
韩江南
李春慧
将红格
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禹州市天源生物科技有限公司
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Publication of WO2017148180A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017148180A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and its production process, and particularly relates to a rosemary moisturizing water and a preparation method thereof.
  • the natural moisturizing system in human skin is mainly composed of water, lipids and natural moisturizing factor (NMF).
  • the widely used moisturizing cosmetics are used to simulate the natural moisturizing system composed of oil, water and NMF in human skin. The effect is to delay the loss of water, increase the moisture penetration of the dermis and epidermis, temporarily provide protection for the skin, reduce damage and promote the repair process.
  • the main ingredients of moisturizers are water, moisturizers and oils.
  • Glycerin also known as glycerol, is a colorless, odorless, sweet and viscous liquid with strong hygroscopicity. Pure glycerin can absorb 40% of water, so it can form a film on the skin. It has the function of isolating air and preventing evaporation of water, and also absorbs moisture in the air. Glycerin is the largest and most common moisturizer in cosmetics, safe and inexpensive.
  • Hyaluronic acid also known as hyaluronic acid
  • hyaluronic acid has a special water-retaining effect. Its hyaluronic molecules can carry more than 500 times of water. It is the most moisturizing substance found in nature, and is called the ideal natural moisturizing factor. .
  • HA is a multifunctional matrix that is widely distributed throughout the body. The skin also contains a large amount of hyaluronic acid, which can improve the skin's nutrient metabolism, make the skin soft, smooth, wrinkle-free, increase elasticity, prevent aging, and is a good transdermal absorption enhancer at the same time moisturizing. HA can also promote the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal cells, scavenge oxygen free radicals, and prevent and repair skin damage.
  • the hyaluronic acid aqueous solution has a high viscosity and can thicken the aqueous phase; the paste which is emulsified with the oil phase is uniform and fine, and has a stable emulsification effect.
  • HA is the best natural moisturizing ingredient for high-grade cosmetics. It has good compatibility and can be added to almost any cosmetic product. It is widely used in cosmetics such as cream, lotion and moisturizing water. It is 0.05-0.5%.
  • humectants commonly used in cosmetics include glycerin, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, collagen, etc. Tests have shown that compared with these humectants, the ambient humidity has little effect on the moisture retention of HA.
  • HA has a higher moisture absorption at low relative humidity (eg, 30%) and lower moisture absorption at high relative humidity (eg, 70%). This unique property is adapting to the moisturizing effect of the skin in different seasons and different environmental humidity.
  • HA can be used alone as a moisturizer or in combination with other moisturizers.
  • Pearl is an ancient organic gemstone produced in pearl shellfish and mother-of-pearl mollusks.
  • the calcium carbonate-containing mineral beads produced by endocrine function are composed of a large number of tiny aragonite crystals.
  • the chemical components contained in pearls are important biologically active substances in the biochemical reaction process of the human body. They can promote the body's metabolism and regulate physiological functions, thereby exerting the therapeutic and health functions of pearls.
  • Modern pharmacological research proves that pearls have anti-aging, anti-stress, anti-oxidation, eye protection, anti-ulcer, anti-tumor, anti-radiation, aphrodisiac, antibacterial and hemostasis effects, while also enhancing the body's immune function and promoting wound healing. .
  • pearls are increasingly used in health care and beauty products.
  • the keratin, amino acid and various trace elements contained in the pearl can enhance the skin metabolism and promote the regeneration of epidermal cells.
  • the pearl powder with sufficient fineness massages the skin and has a good guiding effect on the pores.
  • the rational use of pearl powder can keep the skin soft and white, moist and smooth, and prevent the skin from aging.
  • Pearls are made up of small sand grains that are accidentally entered by sea shells or river otters with their own secreted organic matter. Among them, calcium carbonate, leucine, glycine, methionine, alanine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid and some trace elements such as lead, copper, magnesium, zinc, manganese, sodium, selenium and the like. According to reports, amino acids are essential for healthy growth of the human body. Among the trace elements contained in pearls: selenium has anti-aging effects; zinc is a component of various enzymes. Participation in the body's exemption mechanism and metabolism directly affects human physiological activities.
  • the pearl after the pearl is absorbed by the human body, it can promote the vitality of the enzyme in the human body, regulate the pH of the blood, and enhance the vitality of the cells, thereby delaying the aging of the cells, reducing the wrinkles of the skin, and prolonging the life and beauty.
  • Pearl powder can detoxify, cleanse the skin, control oil, and promote the regeneration and recovery of damaged tissues.
  • pearl powder contains a large amount of calcium, it is not conducive to the absorption of active ingredients by the human body.
  • the pearl hydrolysate obtained by acidifying pearl powder has removed a large amount of calcium carbonate, retaining the amino acids and various trace elements in the pearl, and can be better in cosmetics.
  • Rosemary is a long-established spice plant native to the Mediterranean coast. It was first introduced to China by the Chinese Academy of Sciences in 1981 and has been successfully cultivated. Now it is cultivated in Henan, Yunnan, Hunan, Sichuan, Guizhou and other places.
  • the powdery substance extracted from rosemary plants, the main component is phenol, acid and flavonoids with antioxidant function; the rosemary essential oil is a liquid oil composed of more than 30 volatile components.
  • Rosemary extract has high-efficiency, non-toxic antioxidant effects and can be widely used in food, functional foods, spices and condiments, and household chemicals.
  • Rosmarinic acid a main ingredient in the water-soluble extract of rosemary, is a natural water-soluble phenolic compound with various physiological activities. It has extremely strong biological activities such as anti-oxidation, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory. Inhibition of HIV integrase, inhibition of hyaluronidase and other activities. As a natural antioxidant, rosmarinic acid has a strong ability to scavenge free radicals in the body, protect cell tissues, prevent the occurrence of many diseases, protect the cardiovascular and cerebrovascular system, anti-cancer and anti-aging and other physiological effects.
  • Rosemary extract and rosemary essential oils have unlimited use in the cosmetics field.
  • International rosemary has a number of cosmetics patents, rosemary extract has long been widely used in skin care products, shampoos, perfumes and so on.
  • the rosemary extract has astringent properties that firm the skin. It also removes free radicals from the body and inhibits the degradation of alkaline proteins, thereby maintaining the elasticity and luster of the skin. Because of its repair, strong protection The advantages of wet function and easy absorption can also improve dryness, roughness and peeling of the skin.
  • Rosmarinic acid inhibits the activity of hyaluronidase and keeps hyaluronic acid in the epidermal cells for a long time, thus helping to prevent the invasion of invading microorganisms and toxic substances in the epidermis.
  • Rosemary extract is an excellent additive in cosmetics. It is used in cosmetics to remove pigmentation, anti-oxidation, increase skin elasticity, and delay aging.
  • the present invention provides a rosemary moisturizing water and a method for producing the same.
  • a rosemary moisturizing water the composition thereof comprises a water-soluble extract of rosemary, rosemary essential oil, ethanol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, pearl hydrolyzate and purified water, and the amount of each component is respectively determined by mass percentage Rosemary water-soluble extract 0.3-0.9%, rosemary essential oil 0.05-0.15%, ethanol 5-10%, glycerin 5-10%, hyaluronic acid 0.05-0.12%, pearl hydrolysate 8-15%, the rest To purify water.
  • the ethanol is anhydrous ethanol or edible ethanol.
  • the water extract of rosemary is prepared by the following method: fresh leaves of rosemary are naturally dried, and extracted with purified water, and the extract is concentrated, extracted with ethyl acetate, and passed through an AB-8 resin column. The eluent was recovered to ethanol-free taste, and the extract was concentrated to obtain a concentrate. The concentrate was spray-dried to obtain a water-soluble extract of rosemary.
  • the rosmarinic acid content of the rosemary water-soluble extract is 35-45%.
  • the rosemary essential oil is prepared by the following method: fresh leaves of rosemary or dried leaves are subjected to steam distillation to obtain a mixed solution of rosemary essential oil and water, and the extracting device removes the water of the lower layer and becomes a fan Rosemary essential oil.
  • 1% hyaluronic acid is first prepared and diluted to the desired concentration.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate is prepared by the following method: pearl pulverization, passing through a 100 mesh sieve, and the obtained pearl powder is refluxed with a phosphoric acid solution, and the extract is filtered to obtain a pearl hydrolyzate.
  • the method for preparing rosemary moisturizing water comprises adding the above-mentioned water extract of rosemary, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and pearl hydrolysate to ethanol, stirring and dissolving, adding purified water and mixing uniformly, and then adding Rosemary essential oil, fully stirred and dissolved, pasteurized, and finally filled into finished products.
  • the pasteurization temperature is 80-95 ° C and the time is 4-6 min.
  • the rosemary moisturizing water obtained by the method for producing rosemary moisturizing water obtained by the method for producing rosemary moisturizing water.
  • the rosemary moisturizing water produced by the invention has the unique aroma of rosemary, improves the moisturizing condition of the skin, moisturizes whitening and the like, and the rosemary extract and rosemary in the rosemary extract Essential oil is a natural antioxidant, which has the special effect of moisturizing, antiseptic, whitening and slowing down aging; hydrating effect of glycerin and hyaluronic acid is more obvious, achieving a more comprehensive moisturizing effect; various amino acids and traces contained in pearl hydrolysate Elements, amino acids are the basic elements of human tissue synthesis of proteins, amino acids directly into the human body, more conducive to the body's metabolic absorption, trace elements have anti-aging and whitening and other effects, the skin's beauty effect is better; ethanol has antiseptic effect, And accelerate the absorption of active ingredients, glycerin and hyaluronic acid are excellent moisturizing factors, and the moisturizing effect is very good.
  • the product of the invention has obvious moisturizing effect, and has various functions such as
  • a rosemary moisturizing water the composition thereof comprises a water-soluble extract of rosemary, rosemary essential oil, ethanol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, pearl hydrolyzate and purified water, and the amount of each component is respectively determined by mass percentage Rosemary water-soluble extract 0.3-0.9%, rosemary essential oil 0.05-0.15%, ethanol 5-10%, glycerin 5-10%, hyaluronic acid 0.05-0.12%, pearl hydrolysate 8-15%, the rest To purify water.
  • the ethanol is anhydrous ethanol or edible ethanol.
  • the water extract of rosemary is prepared by the following method: fresh leaves of rosemary are naturally dried, and extracted with purified water, and the extract is concentrated, extracted with ethyl acetate, and passed through an AB-8 resin column. The eluent was recovered to ethanol-free taste, and the extract was concentrated to obtain a concentrate. The concentrate was spray-dried to obtain a water-soluble extract of rosemary.
  • the rosmarinic acid content of the rosemary water-soluble extract is 35-45%.
  • the fresh leaves of rosemary are naturally dried, and the purified water is extracted by hot reflux at a ratio of 1:20 to 30-50 minutes, and the concentrated liquid is extracted.
  • the specific gravity of the concentrated liquid is 1.15-1.20, and the concentrated liquid and ethyl acetate are as follows. 1:2 ratio extraction twice, each time for 30 minutes, when the extract is the upper layer of ethyl acetate solution concentrated under reduced pressure to recover 1/10 of the original volume, add 1 volume of purified water and concentrate to recover without ethyl acetate Flavor, the concentration of the concentrate was adjusted to pH 3.0 with 10% hydrochloric acid solution, and the column of AB-8 resin was eluted with ethanol.
  • the eluent was recovered and the ethanol solution collected was eluted to an ethanol-free taste, and then concentrated by HPLC.
  • the content of rosmarinic acid in the liquid is 35-45%, and finally the concentrate is spray-dried to obtain a water-soluble extract of rosemary.
  • the rosemary essential oil is prepared by the following method: fresh leaves of rosemary or dried leaves are subjected to steam distillation to obtain a mixed solution of rosemary essential oil and water, and the lower layer of water is removed through an extraction device. Rosemary essential oil.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate is prepared by the following method: pearl pulverization, passing through a 100 mesh sieve, and the obtained pearl powder is refluxed with a phosphoric acid solution, and the extract is filtered to obtain a pearl hydrolyzate.
  • the obtained pearl powder is mixed with 3.5-4.0% sulfuric acid solution according to the ratio of material to liquid 1:9-1:11, and then refluxed for 8-10 hours, and filtered to obtain a pearl hydrolyzate.
  • the invention relates to a method for preparing rosemary moisturizing water, which comprises adding the above water extract of rosemary, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and pearl hydrolysate to ethanol, stirring and dissolving, adding purified water and mixing evenly, and then adding the rosemary.
  • the essential oil is thoroughly stirred and dissolved, pasteurized, and finally filled into finished products.
  • the pasteurization temperature is 80-95 ° C for 4-6 min.
  • the rosemary moisturizing water obtained by the method for producing rosemary moisturizing water obtained by the method for producing rosemary moisturizing water.
  • a rosemary moisturizing water the composition thereof comprises a water-soluble extract of rosemary, rosemary essential oil, ethanol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, pearl hydrolyzate and purified water, and the amount of each component is respectively determined by mass percentage Rosemary water-soluble extract 0.5%, rosemary essential oil 0.1%, ethanol 5%, glycerin 10%, hyaluronic acid 0.1%, pearl hydrolysate 10%, and the rest is purified water.
  • the ethanol is anhydrous ethanol or edible ethanol.
  • the hyaluronic acid was first prepared with a hyaluronic acid solution having a hyaluronic acid content of 1%, and then the amount of the hyaluronic acid solution added was 10%.
  • Fresh leaves of rosemary were naturally dried, and extracted with purified water at a ratio of 1:20 to 30 °, and the concentrate was extracted.
  • the concentration of the concentrate was 1.18, and the concentrate and ethyl acetate were 1:2.
  • the ratio is extracted twice, each time for 30 minutes.
  • the extract is the upper layer ethyl acetate solution concentrated under reduced pressure and recovered to 1/10 of the original volume
  • 1 volume of purified water is added to concentrate and recover to the ethyl acetate-free flavor.
  • the liquid was adjusted to a pH of 3.0 with a 10% hydrochloric acid solution, and the upper AB-8 resin column was loaded in 3 column volumes at a flow rate of 1.5 BV/h.
  • the sample was loaded, it was washed with 5 BV of purified water, and then used for 3 BV, 40%. Ethanol elution, flow rate 1.5BV / h, the eluent is the ethanol solution collected by the elution to recover ethanol to ethanol-free taste, the content of rosmarinic acid in the concentrate is 36.88% by HPLC, after the spray is spray dried That is, the water extract of rosemary is obtained.
  • the method for preparing the rosemary essential oil is as follows: the dried rosemary leaves are subjected to steam distillation to obtain a mixed solution of rosemary essential oil and water, and the lower layer of water and the rosemary essential oil are removed through an extraction device.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate is prepared by the following method: pearl pulverization, passing through a 100 mesh sieve, mixing with a phosphoric acid solution having a concentration of 3.8% at a ratio of 1:10, refluxing for 10 hours, and extracting the extract to obtain a pearl hydrolyzate. ;
  • a method for preparing rosemary moisturizing water the above-mentioned rosemary water-soluble extract, glycerin, transparent
  • the acid and pearl hydrolysate is added to the ethanol, stirred and dissolved, and then added with purified water to be evenly mixed.
  • the rosemary essential oil is added, thoroughly stirred and dissolved, pasteurized, and finally filled into a finished product.
  • the pasteurization temperature was 82 ° C for 6 min.
  • a rosemary moisturizing water the composition thereof comprises a water-soluble extract of rosemary, rosemary essential oil, ethanol, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, pearl hydrolysate and purified water, and the amount of each component is respectively added by volume percentage Rosemary water-soluble extract 0.39%, rosemary essential oil 0.15%, ethanol 10%, glycerin 5%, hyaluronic acid solution 0.05%, pearl hydrolysate 10%, the rest is purified water.
  • the ethanol is anhydrous ethanol or edible ethanol.
  • the hyaluronic acid was first prepared with a hyaluronic acid solution having a hyaluronic acid content of 1%, and then the amount of the hyaluronic acid solution added was 5%.
  • the water extract of rosemary is prepared by the following method: fresh leaves of rosemary are naturally dried, and extracted with purified water, and the extract is concentrated, extracted with ethyl acetate, and passed through an AB-8 resin column. The eluent was recovered to ethanol-free taste, and the extract was concentrated to obtain a concentrate. The concentrate was spray-dried to obtain a water-soluble extract of rosemary.
  • Fresh leaves of rosemary were naturally dried, and extracted with purified water at a ratio of 1:20 to 30 °, and the concentrate was extracted.
  • the concentration of the concentrate was 1.18, and the concentrate and ethyl acetate were 1:2.
  • the ratio is extracted twice, each time for 30 minutes.
  • the extract is the upper layer ethyl acetate solution concentrated under reduced pressure and recovered to 1/10 of the original volume
  • 1 volume of purified water is added to concentrate and recover to the ethyl acetate-free flavor.
  • the liquid was adjusted to a pH of 3.0 with a 10% hydrochloric acid solution, and the upper AB-8 resin column was loaded in 3 column volumes at a flow rate of 1.5 BV/h.
  • the sample was loaded, it was washed with 5 BV of purified water, and then used for 3 BV, 40%.
  • the ethanol was eluted at a flow rate of 1.5 BV/h, and the eluent was recovered to elute the ethanol solution to an ethanol-free taste.
  • the content of rosmarinic acid in the concentrate was determined by HPLC to be 36.88%, and the concentrate was spray dried. A rosemary water soluble extract is obtained.
  • the method for preparing the rosemary essential oil is as follows: the dried rosemary leaves are subjected to steam distillation to obtain a mixed solution of rosemary essential oil and water, and the lower layer of water and the rosemary essential oil are removed through an extraction device.
  • the pearl hydrolyzate is prepared by the following method: pearl pulverization, passing through a 100 mesh sieve, mixing with a phosphoric acid solution having a concentration of 3.8% at a ratio of 1:10, refluxing for 10 hours, and extracting the extract to obtain a pearl hydrolyzate. ;
  • a method for preparing rosemary moisturizing water adding the above water extract of rosemary, glycerin, hyaluronic acid solution and pearl hydrolysate to ethanol, stirring and dissolving, adding purified water and mixing evenly, and then adding the rosemary
  • the essential oil is thoroughly stirred and dissolved, pasteurized, and finally filled into finished products.
  • the pasteurization temperature was 95 ° C for 5 min.
  • Table 1 is a partial combination of the components of the present invention
  • the rosemary water-soluble extract and the rosemary essential oil are circulated in the order shown above, and the ethanol is circulated in the order of 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and the glycerol is 5, and the hyaluronic acid
  • the acid is 0.05, the pearl hydrolysate is 8, and the rest is purified water; on the basis of the above-mentioned rosemary water-soluble extract, rosemary essential oil and ethanol circulation, glycerin is according to 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 Sequential circulation, hyaluronic acid is 0.05, pearl hydrolysate is 8, and the rest is purified water; on the basis of the above-mentioned rosemary water-soluble extract, rosemary essential oil, ethanol and glycerin cycle, hyaluronic acid is 0.05, 0.06 , 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.11, 0.12 in a sequential cycle, the pearl hydrolysate is 8, the rest is purified water; in the above rosemary water-soluble extract, rosemary essential oil, ethanol, glycer

Abstract

一种迷迭香保湿水，其组成成分按质量百分比包括迷迭香水溶性提取物0.3-0.9％、迷迭香精油0.05-0.15％、乙醇5-10％、甘油5-10％、透明质酸0.05-0.12％、珍珠水解液8-15％、其余为纯化水。

Description

一种迷迭香保湿水及其制作方法 技术领域
本发明属于化妆品及其生产工艺领域，具体涉及一种迷迭香保湿水及其制作方法。
背景技术
人体皮肤内的天然保湿系统主要由水、脂类、天然保湿因子(NMF)组成。现在广泛使用的保湿化妆品用以模拟人体皮肤中由油、水、NMF组成的天然保湿系统，作用在于延缓水分丢失、增加真皮—表皮水分渗透、为皮肤暂时提供保护、减少损伤、促进修复过程。保湿品的主要成分为水、保湿剂和油脂。
甘油又名丙三醇，是一种无色、无臭、味甘的粘稠液体，具有很强的吸湿性，纯净的甘油能吸收40％的水分，所以搽在皮肤上能形成一层薄膜，有隔绝空气和防止水分蒸发的作用，还能吸收空气中的水分。甘油是化妆品中用量最大、最普通的保湿剂，安全，价格低廉。
透明质酸(HA)又名玻尿酸，具有特殊的保水作用，它的透明质分子能携带500倍以上的水分，是目前发现的自然界中保湿性最好的物质，被称为理想的天然保湿因子。HA是一种多功能基质，广泛分布于人体各部位。其中皮肤也含有大量的透明质酸，它可以改善皮肤营养代谢，使皮肤柔嫩、光滑、去皱、增加弹性、防止衰老，在保湿的同时又是良好的透皮吸收促进剂。HA还能促进表皮细胞的增殖和分化、清除氧自由基，可预防和修复皮肤损伤。透明质酸水溶液具有很高的粘度，可使水相增稠；与油相乳化后的膏体均匀细腻，具有稳定乳化作用。HA是高档化妆品最好的天然保湿成分，它相容性好，几乎可以添加到任何美容化妆品中，广泛用于膏霜、乳液、保湿水等化妆品中，一般添加量 为0.05—0.5％。
化妆品中常用的保湿剂有甘油、丙二醇、聚乙二醇、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、胶原蛋白等，试验表明，与这些保湿剂相比，周围环境湿度对HA的保湿性影响较小。HA在低相对湿度(如30％)下吸湿量较高，而在高相对湿度(如70％)下吸湿量较低。这种独特的性质，正适应皮肤在不同季节，不同环境湿度下，对化妆品保湿作用的要求。HA作为保湿剂可以单独使用，也可以与其他保湿剂配合使用。
珍珠是一种古老的有机宝石，产在珍珠贝类和珠母贝类软体动物体内，由于内分泌作用而生成的含碳酸钙的矿物珠粒，是由大量微小的文石晶体集合而成的。珍珠所含化学成分是人体内生物化学反应过程中的重要生物活性物质，能促进人体新陈代谢、调节生理机能，从而发挥珍珠的治疗和保健功能。现代药理研究证明珍珠具有抗衰老、抗应激、抗氧化、护眼、抗溃疡、抗肿瘤、抗辐射、壮阳、抗菌和止血等作用，同时还能增强人体的免疫功能及促进伤口愈合等作用。临床广泛使用于治疗眼疾、溃疡病、骨质疏松症、烧伤、烫伤、软组织缺损、子宫出血、子宫颈糜烂等。随着生活水平的提高，珍珠越来越多应用于保健和美容制品。珍珠所含壳角蛋白、氨基酸、多种微量元素能增强皮肤新陈代谢、促进表皮细胞再生，细度足够的珍珠粉按摩皮肤对毛孔有很好的导管作用。合理使用珍珠粉可保肌肤柔嫩白净，滋润光滑，防止皮肤衰老的独特功效。
珍珠是由海贝或河蚌用自己分泌的有机物将偶然进入的小砂粒包裹而成的。其中，含碳酸钙、亮氨酸、甘氨酸\蛋氨酸、丙氨酸、谷氨酸、天冬氨酸及一些微量元素铅、铜、镁、锌、锰、钠、硒等。据介绍，氨基酸是人体健康生长之必需，珍珠含有的微量元素中：硒有抗衰老作用；锌是多种酶的组成成分， 参与体内的免度机制和新陈代谢，直接影响人体生理活动。据现代医学分析，珍珠被人体吸收以后，能促进人体内酶的活力，调节血液的酸碱度，使细胞的生命力增强，从而延缓细胞的衰老，使皮肤皱纹减少，起到延年益寿和美容的目的。
珍珠粉可以清热解毒，清洁皮肤，控制油分，还可促进受损组织再生恢复。但由于珍珠粉中含有大量的钙成分，不利于人体对有效成分的吸收。通过酸解珍珠粉所得的珍珠水解液已经除去了大量的碳酸钙，保留了珍珠中的氨基酸和多种微量元素，在化妆品中可以更好的应有。
迷迭香，是一种原产于地中海沿岸的历史悠久的香料植物，1981年由中国科学院首次引入我国并栽培成功，现在河南、云南、湖南、四川、贵州等地都有种植。从迷迭香植物中提取得到的粉末状物质，主要成分是具有抗氧化功能的酚、酸、黄酮类成分；迷迭香精油则是一种由30多种挥发性成分组成的液态油状物。迷迭香提取物具有高效、无毒的抗氧化效果，可广泛应用于食品、功能食品、香料及调味品和日用化工等行业中。
迷迭香水溶性提取物中的主要成分迷迭香酸是一种天然的具有多种生理活性的水溶性酚类化合物，具有极强的多方面的生物活性，如：抗氧化、抗菌、消炎、抑制HIV整合酶、抑制透明质酸酶等活性。作为天然抗氧化剂，迷迭香酸具有极强的清除体内自由基的活性，保护细胞组织、预防许多疾病的发生，保护心脑血管循环系统、抗癌及延缓衰老等生理作用。
迷迭香提取和迷迭香精油在化妆品领域有着不可限量的用途。国际上迷迭香已有多项化妆品专利，迷迭香提取物早已被人们广泛用于护肤品、洗发水、香水等中。迷迭香提取物具有收敛性，可紧实皮肤。还能清除人体自由基及抑制碱性蛋白的降解，从而能够保持肌肤的弹性和光泽。因其具有修复、强力保 湿功能及易被吸收的优势，还可以改善皮肤干燥、粗糙、脱皮等问题。迷迭香酸能抑制透明质酸酶的活性，保持透明质酸在表皮细胞长时间存在，因此有助于阻止入侵的微生物及毒性物质在表皮内扩散。迷迭香提取物是化妆品中优良添加剂。它用于化妆品中可起到去色斑、抗氧化、增加皮肤弹性、延缓衰老等作用。
发明内容
为了制作一种保湿效果明显，兼有美白和抗衰老作用的保湿水，本发明提供一种迷迭香保湿水及其制作方法。
本发明采用的技术方案为：
一种迷迭香保湿水，其组成成分包括迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇、甘油、透明质酸、珍珠水解液和纯化水，各成分的添加量按质量百分比分别为迷迭香水溶性提取物0.3-0.9％，迷迭香精油0.05-0.15％，乙醇5-10％，甘油5-10％，透明质酸0.05-0.12％，珍珠水解液8-15％，其余为纯化水。
所述乙醇为无水乙醇或食用乙醇。
所述的迷迭香水溶性提取物由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶经过自然晾干，用纯化水回流提取，提取液经浓缩、乙酸乙酯萃取、过AB-8树脂柱，回收洗脱液乙醇至无乙醇味，再浓缩提取液得到浓缩液，浓缩液经喷雾干燥即得到迷迭香水溶性提取物。
所述的迷迭香水溶性提取物中迷迭香酸的含量为35-45％。
所述的迷迭香精油由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶或干叶经过水蒸气蒸馏法，得迷迭香精油和水的混合溶液，经过萃取装置，除去下层的水即得迷迭香精油。
所述的透明质酸的配制时，先配制1％的透明质酸，再稀释至所需浓度。
所述的珍珠水解液由下述方法制得：珍珠粉碎，过100目筛，所得珍珠粉用磷酸溶液回流提取，提取液过滤，得珍珠水解液。
所述的一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法，将上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、甘油、透明质酸和珍珠水解液加入到乙醇中，搅拌溶解，再加入纯化水混合均匀，然后加入迷迭香精油，充分搅拌溶解后巴氏消毒，最后灌装为成品。
所述的所述的巴氏消毒的温度为80-95℃，时间为4-6min。
所述的一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法得到的迷迭香保湿水。
本发明的有益效果是：本发明生产的迷迭香保湿水具有迷迭香特有的香味，改善皮肤保湿状况、保湿美白等多种功效，迷迭香提取物中迷迭香酸和迷迭香精油是天然的抗氧化剂，具有保湿、防腐、美白、减缓衰老的特殊作用；甘油和透明质酸复合保湿作用更加明显，达到了更全面的保湿效果；珍珠水解液中含有的多种氨基酸和微量元素，氨基酸是人体组织合成蛋白质的基本元素，氨基酸直接进入人体，更有利于人体的代谢吸收，微量元素具有抗衰老和美白等多种功效，对皮肤的美容效果更佳；乙醇具有防腐作用，和加快有效成分吸收的作用，甘油和透明质酸为优良的保湿因子，保湿效果很好，本发明产品具有明显的保湿效果，兼有美白和抗衰老等多种作用，适合皮肤干燥护理和美白。
具体实施方式
一种迷迭香保湿水，其组成成分包括迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇、甘油、透明质酸、珍珠水解液和纯化水，各成分的添加量按质量百分比分别为迷迭香水溶性提取物0.3-0.9％，迷迭香精油0.05-0.15％，乙醇5-10％，甘油5-10％，透明质酸0.05-0.12％，珍珠水解液8-15％，其余为纯化水。
所述乙醇为无水乙醇或食用乙醇。
配制透明质酸时，先配制1％的透明质酸，再稀释至所需浓度。
所述的迷迭香水溶性提取物由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶经过自然晾干，用纯化水回流提取，提取液经浓缩、乙酸乙酯萃取、过AB-8树脂柱，回收洗脱液乙醇至无乙醇味，再浓缩提取液得到浓缩液，浓缩液经喷雾干燥即得到迷迭香水溶性提取物。迷迭香水溶性提取物中迷迭香酸的含量为35-45％。
迷迭香鲜叶经自然晾干，与纯化水按照料液比1:20，经热回流提取30-50分钟，提取浓缩液，浓缩液的比重为1.15-1.20，浓缩液与乙酸乙酯按照1:2的比例萃取2次，每次30分钟，当萃取液即上层乙酸乙酯溶液减压浓缩回收至原体积的1/10时，加入1倍体积的纯化水浓缩回收至无乙酸乙酯味，浓缩液用10％的盐酸溶液调节pH值为3.0，上AB-8树脂柱，然后用乙醇洗脱，回收洗脱液即洗脱收集的乙醇溶液至无乙醇味，再用HPLC检测浓缩液中迷迭香酸的含量为35-45％，最后将浓缩液通过喷雾干燥得到迷迭香水溶性提取物。
所述的迷迭香精油由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶或干叶经过水蒸气蒸馏法，得迷迭香精油和水的混合溶液，经过萃取装置，除去下层的水及得迷迭香精油。
所述的珍珠水解液由下述方法制得：珍珠粉碎，过100目筛，所得珍珠粉用磷酸溶液回流提取，提取液过滤，得珍珠水解液。
所得珍珠粉与3.5-4.0％的硫酸溶液按照料液比1:9-1:11混合后，回流提取8-10小时，过滤，得珍珠水解液。
一种上述迷迭香保湿水的制作方法，将上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、甘油、透明质酸和珍珠水解液加入到乙醇中，搅拌溶解，再加入纯化水混合均匀，然后加入迷迭香精油，充分搅拌溶解后巴氏消毒，最后灌装为成品。所述的巴氏消毒的温度为80-95℃，时间为4-6min。
所述的一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法得到的迷迭香保湿水。
实施例1
一种迷迭香保湿水，其组成成分包括迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇、甘油、透明质酸、珍珠水解液和纯化水，各成分的添加量按质量百分比分别为迷迭香水溶性提取物0.5％，迷迭香精油0.1％，乙醇5％，甘油10％，透明质酸0.1％，珍珠水解液10％，其余为纯化水。所述乙醇为无水乙醇或食用乙醇。所述的透明质酸在使用时先配制透明质酸含量为1％的透明质酸溶液，然后添加的透明质酸溶液的量为10％。
迷迭香鲜叶经自然晾干，与纯化水按照料液比1:20热回流提取30分钟，提取浓缩液，浓缩液的比重计检测值为1.18，浓缩液与乙酸乙酯按照1:2的比例萃取2次，每次30分钟，当萃取液即上层乙酸乙酯溶液减压浓缩回收至原体积的1/10时，加入1倍体积的纯化水浓缩回收至无乙酸乙酯味，浓缩液用10％的盐酸溶液调节pH值为3.0，上AB-8树脂柱，按照3倍柱体积上样，流速1.5BV/h，上样结束后用5BV纯化水清洗，然后用3BV、40％的乙醇洗脱，流速1.5BV/h，洗脱液即洗脱收集的乙醇溶液回收乙醇至无乙醇味，通过HPLC检测浓缩液中迷迭香酸的含量为36.88％，浓缩液经喷雾干燥后即得迷迭香水溶性提取物。
所述的迷迭香精油制作方法如下：迷迭香干叶经过水蒸气蒸馏法，得迷迭香精油和水的混合溶液，经过萃取装置，除去下层的水及得迷迭香精油。
所述的珍珠水解液由下述方法制得：珍珠粉碎，过100目筛，与浓度为3.8％的磷酸溶液按照料液比1:10混合，回流提取10h，提取液过滤，得到珍珠水解液；
一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法，将上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、甘油、透明 质酸和珍珠水解液加入到乙醇中，搅拌溶解，再加入纯化水混合均匀，然后加入迷迭香精油，充分搅拌溶解后巴氏消毒，最后灌装为成品。所述的巴氏消毒的温度为82℃，时间为6min。
实施例2
一种迷迭香保湿水，其组成成分包括迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇、甘油、透明质酸、珍珠水解液和纯化水，各成分的添加量按体积百分数分别为迷迭香水溶性提取物0.39％，迷迭香精油0.15％，乙醇10％，甘油5％，透明质酸溶液0.05％，珍珠水解液10％，其余为纯化水。所述乙醇为无水乙醇或食用乙醇。所述的透明质酸在使用时先配制透明质酸含量为1％的透明质酸溶液，然后添加的透明质酸溶液的量为5％。
所述的迷迭香水溶性提取物由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶经过自然晾干，用纯化水回流提取，提取液经浓缩、乙酸乙酯萃取、过AB-8树脂柱，回收洗脱液乙醇至无乙醇味，再浓缩提取液得到浓缩液，浓缩液经喷雾干燥即得到迷迭香水溶性提取物。
迷迭香鲜叶经自然晾干，与纯化水按照料液比1:20热回流提取30分钟，提取浓缩液，浓缩液的比重计检测值为1.18，浓缩液与乙酸乙酯按照1:2的比例萃取2次，每次30分钟，当萃取液即上层乙酸乙酯溶液减压浓缩回收至原体积的1/10时，加入1倍体积的纯化水浓缩回收至无乙酸乙酯味，浓缩液用10％的盐酸溶液调节pH值为3.0，上AB-8树脂柱，按照3倍柱体积上样，流速1.5BV/h，上样结束后用5BV纯化水清洗，然后用3BV、40％的乙醇洗脱，流速1.5BV/h，回收洗脱液即洗脱收集的乙醇溶液至无乙醇味，通过HPLC检测浓缩液中迷迭香酸的含量为36.88％，浓缩液经喷雾干燥后即得迷迭香水溶性提取物。
所述的迷迭香精油制作方法如下：迷迭香干叶经过水蒸气蒸馏法，得迷迭香精油和水的混合溶液，经过萃取装置，除去下层的水及得迷迭香精油。
所述的珍珠水解液由下述方法制得：珍珠粉碎，过100目筛，与浓度为3.8％的磷酸溶液按照料液比1:10混合，回流提取10h，提取液过滤，得到珍珠水解液；
一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法，将上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、甘油、透明质酸溶液和珍珠水解液加入到乙醇中，搅拌溶解，再加入纯化水混合均匀，然后加入迷迭香精油，充分搅拌溶解后巴氏消毒，最后灌装为成品。所述的巴氏消毒的温度为95℃，时间为5min。
表1为本发明各成分的部分组合
Figure PCTCN2016105849-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2016105849-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2016105849-appb-000003
在其余的实施例中，迷迭香水溶性提取物和迷迭香精油按照上述所示的顺序循环，乙醇按照5、6、7、8、9、10的顺序循环，甘油为5，透明质酸为0.05，珍珠水解液为8，其余为纯化水；在上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油和乙醇循环的基础上，甘油按照5、6、7、8、9、10的顺序循环，透明质酸为0.05，珍珠水解液为8，其余为纯化水；在上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇和甘油循环的基础上，透明质酸按照0.05、0.06、0.07、0.08、0.09、0.10、0.11、0.12的顺序循环，珍珠水解液为8，其余为纯化水；在上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇、甘油和透明质酸循环的基础上，珍珠水解液按照8、9、10、11、12、13、14、15 的顺序循环，其余为纯化水。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：其组成成分包括迷迭香水溶性提取物、迷迭香精油、乙醇、甘油、透明质酸、珍珠水解液和纯化水，各成分的添加量按质量百分比分别为迷迭香水溶性提取物0.3-0.9％，迷迭香精油0.05-0.15％，乙醇5-10％，甘油5-10％，透明质酸0.05-0.12％，珍珠水解液8-15％，其余为纯化水。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：所述乙醇为无水乙醇或食用乙醇。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：所述的迷迭香水溶性提取物由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶经过自然晾干，用纯化水回流提取，提取液经浓缩、乙酸乙酯萃取、过AB-8树脂柱，回收洗脱液乙醇至无乙醇味，再浓缩提取液得到浓缩液，浓缩液经喷雾干燥即得到迷迭香水溶性提取物。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：所述的迷迭香水溶性提取物中迷迭香酸的含量为35-45％。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：所述的迷迭香精油由下述方法制得：迷迭香鲜叶或干叶经过水蒸气蒸馏法，得迷迭香精油和水的混合溶液，经过萃取装置，除去下层的水即得迷迭香精油。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：所述的透明质酸的配制时，先配制1％的透明质酸，再稀释至所需浓度。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的一种迷迭香保湿水，其特征在于：所述的珍珠水解液由下述方法制得：珍珠粉碎，过100目筛，所得珍珠粉用磷酸溶液回流提取，提取液过滤，得珍珠水解液。
  8. 一种如权利要求1所述的一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法，其特征在于：将 上述迷迭香水溶性提取物、甘油、透明质酸和珍珠水解液加入到乙醇中，搅拌溶解，再加入纯化水混合均匀，然后加入迷迭香精油，充分搅拌溶解后巴氏消毒，最后灌装为成品。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法，其特征在于：所述的所述的巴氏消毒的温度为80-95℃，时间为4-6min。
  10. 根据权利要求8所述的一种迷迭香保湿水的制作方法得到的迷迭香保湿水。
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