WO2017107066A1 - Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017107066A1
WO2017107066A1 PCT/CN2015/098316 CN2015098316W WO2017107066A1 WO 2017107066 A1 WO2017107066 A1 WO 2017107066A1 CN 2015098316 W CN2015098316 W CN 2015098316W WO 2017107066 A1 WO2017107066 A1 WO 2017107066A1
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composition
meth
weight
group
acrylate
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PCT/CN2015/098316
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English (en)
Inventor
Chi Ma
Xiuxia Wang
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L'oreal
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Priority to CN201580085494.0A priority Critical patent/CN108430433A/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2015/098316 priority patent/WO2017107066A1/fr
Publication of WO2017107066A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017107066A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular the human skin, more particularly, the present invention relates to a composition comprising white pigment (s) , silicone resin (s) and hollow particles.
  • WO2010149493 disclosed a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one silicone resin and at least one styrene/acrylate copolymer.
  • the composition as such was claimed to present a good stay power, for example anhydrous lip sticks as mentioned in the examples.
  • compositions for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.
  • the conventional oil-in-water emulsions are not totally satisfying, in particular in terms of instant and stable brightening or whitening of the skin, and meanwhile without impacting the comfort of use.
  • compositions in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, with an improved brightening or whitening of keratin materials, and meanwhile maintaining a good comfort of use.
  • compositions in the form of an emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising white pigment (s) , silicone resins selected from MQT resin (s) , and hollow particles.
  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and comprising:
  • a composition according to the invention is advantageous in several respects.
  • the composition according to the invention has an improved brightening or whitening effect to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the “brightening and whitening effect” refers to both an instant and long lasting brightening or whitening of keratin materials, wherein the instant effect is represented by the value L* black value after application of the composition of the present invention on a substrate, and long lasting effect is demonstrated by the change of L* black during 24 hours after application of the composition of the present invention on the substrate.
  • the value L* black is measured by Colorimeter sold by the company KONICA MINOLTA under the tradename CHROMA METER CR-400.
  • composition of the present invention we intend to mean softness, emollience, hydration, and moisturizing feeling after application of the composition of the present invention on keratin materials, without any feeling of greasiness, or dryness.
  • composition of the present invention is stable over time.
  • composition as such provides to the skin a great comfort of use, such as softness, emollience, hydration, and freshness.
  • the composition of the present invention is water and sebum resistance. Even under heat and humid situation, the composition of the present invention remains to provide a good brightening or whitening to the skin.
  • the water and sebum resistance of the present invention is measured using Chromasphere with a definition of 410 ⁇ 410 pixels, and the result is presented by ⁇ E 94 , which will be described in more details here under.
  • the invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the human skin, comprising at least a step of applying to the said keratin materials a composition in accordance with the invention.
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention relates to the use of the composition as described above in brightening or whitening keratin materials.
  • the term “keratin material” is intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails.
  • the skin in particular facial skin, is most particularly considered according to the invention.
  • Figure 1 is change of L* black value during 24 hours, after application of the composition according to the present invention on a substrate.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least one white pigment.
  • such pigments are not interference pigments.
  • the particular pigment (s) used in a composition according to the invention denote a mineral or organic particle, which is insoluble in an aqueous solution, the said particle being white, coated or uncoated, spherical or non-spherical, and porous or non-porous.
  • a pigment according to the invention may be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, guanine, sericite, talc, kaolin, corn starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, and an aluminium salt (such as the product sold under the name Dry Flo Plus from National Starch (INCI name: Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate).
  • a white pigment preferentially used according to the invention is titanium dioxide, which may especially be in rutile or anatase form and may be coated or uncoated, on condition, however, that it conserves the properties for which it is used in the present patent application.
  • the pigments according to the invention may thus be formed from a substrate, chosen especially from the list of pigments mentioned above, preferably titanium dioxide, which is covered with one or more coating layers of a compound chosen from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) , alumina, silica, trimethylolpropane, or even a combination of these compounds.
  • a substrate chosen especially from the list of pigments mentioned above, preferably titanium dioxide, which is covered with one or more coating layers of a compound chosen from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) , alumina, silica, trimethylolpropane, or even a combination of these compounds.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxane
  • Pigments in accordance with the invention advantageously have a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6, preferably greater than or equal to 1.8, preferentially ranging from 1.6 to 2.7.
  • a pigment in accordance with the invention may have a volumetric size of less than 30 ⁇ m and preferably less than 15 ⁇ m.
  • a pigment in accordance with the invention may have a volumetric size of between 500 nm and 30 ⁇ m and especially between 1 ⁇ m and 15 ⁇ m.
  • the said pigments are advantageously in the form of a white powder.
  • white pigments that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the pigment sold under the name Hombitan FF Pharma by the company Sachtleben, which consists of titanium dioxide, and the product sold under the reference SA-TAO-77891 by
  • Miyoshi Kasei which consists of a titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ) coated with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) . Mention may also be made of TiO 2 surface-treated with alumina/silica/trimethylolpropane, sold under the reference Tipaque PF671 from Ishihara Sangyo.
  • the white pigment is present in a composition of the invention in a content of from 0.1% to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the colorimetric measurements of the luminance (L*) and saturation (c*) of a pigment in the CIE Lab 1976 colorimetric space may be performed using a colorimetric chromameter from Minolta.
  • the pigment is first dispersed in the following cosmetic support:
  • the pigment dispersion is then introduced into a jar with a volume of 15 ml (aperture diameter: 1.9 cm; depth: 1.8 cm) .
  • the surface of the said cosmetic medium introduced is smoothed off by levelling with a glass slide.
  • the colorimeter cell is then placed in contact with this surface and the colorimetric parameters are determined.
  • the white pigments according to the invention will especially have values of L*greater than or equal to 95 and of c*less than or equal to 3, according to the protocol described previously.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone resin selected from MQT resin.
  • resin means a crosslinked or non-crosslinked three-dimensional structure.
  • ′′Silicone resins′′ are also referred to as ′′siloxane resins′′ .
  • silicone resins are known under the name MDTQ, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters MDTQ characterizing a type of unit.
  • the letter M represents the monofunctional unit, for example, of formula (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 , the silicon atom being connected to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
  • the letter D means a difunctional unit, for example, (CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.
  • T represents a trifunctional unit, for example, of formula (CH 3 ) SiO 3/2 .
  • the at least one silicone resin comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula (R) SiO 3/2 is chosen from the silsesquioxanes of formula: ( (R′) SiO 3/2 ) x , in which x ranges from 100 to 500 and R′ is chosen, independently by trifunctional unit, from a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, on the condition that at least one R′ is a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms is a methyl group.
  • the at least one silicone resin comprising at least one trifunctional unit of formula (R) SiO 3/2 is chosen from the silsesquioxanes of the formula: ( (R′) SiO 3/2 ) x , in which x ranges from 100 to 500 and R′ is chosen, independently by unit, from CH 3 , a hydrocarbon-based group containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, on the condition that at least one R′ is a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO 4/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
  • the resin is selected from MQT resin.
  • MQT resin it refers to the a silicone resin comprising MQT units, which is in particular known are those mentioned in document US 5 110 890.
  • a preferred form of resins of MQT type are MQT-propyl (also known as MQTpr) resins.
  • Such resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are in particular those described and prepared in patent application WO 2005/075 542, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.
  • the MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the units:
  • R1, R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based radical (in particular alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or else a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,
  • a being between 0.05 and 0.5
  • d being between 0.05 and 0.6
  • the siloxane resin comprises the units:
  • R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms
  • R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group
  • a being between 0.05 and 0.5 and preferably between 0.15 and 0.4
  • c being greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4,
  • d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 or alternatively between 0.2 and 0.55,
  • siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may be obtained via a process comprising the reaction of:
  • an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R1 3 SiO 1/2 ) a and (SiO 4/2 ) d ,
  • R1 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
  • the ratio a/d being between 0.5 and 1.5;
  • T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiO 3/2 ) c ,
  • R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
  • the mass ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.
  • the mass ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30.
  • MQT resin such as those commercially available under the tradename Dow MQ-1640 Flake Resin sold by the company Dow Corning, which is a blend of trimethylsiloxysilicate and polypropylsilsesquioxane, with a ratio 65/35.
  • the silicone resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises hollow particles.
  • the hollow sphere particles according to the invention may have a particle size which ranges generally from 100 to 450 nm, preferably from 100 to 380 nm, preferably from 150 to 375 nm, the particle size being measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation spectrometer.
  • the hollow particles according to the invention in general, possess a maximum hollow fraction.
  • the hollow particles preferably contain a void fraction of 0.1% to 50% and more preferably of 5% to 50%.
  • the void fractions are determined by comparing the volume occupied by the hollow particles after having been compacted from a diluted dispersion in a centrifuge, relative to the volume of non-void particles in the same composition.
  • Hollow particles according to the invention may be obtained from particles comprising at least one polymer for the core and at least one polymer for the shell.
  • the core polymer and the shell polymer may be obtained from a single polymerization step or from a sequence of polymerization steps.
  • the hollow particles according to the invention may be prepared by the conventional techniques of emulsion polymerization. Such processes are described especially in patents US 4,427,836, US 4,469,825, US 4,594,363, US 4,677,003, US 4,920,160, and US 4,970,241 or by the conventional techniques of polymerization that are described in the following patents and patent applications: EP267726, EP331421, US 490,229, and US 5,157,084.
  • the monomers used for the shell of the hollow particles are preferably constituted of one or more unsaturated nonionic ethylenic monomers.
  • one or more monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group may be polymerized in the shell.
  • the monomers constituting the shell may be selected such that they exhibit a glass transition temperature (Tg) which is sufficiently high to withstand the void of the hollow particle.
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • the glass transition temperature is greater than 50°C, more preferably greater than 60°C, and more preferably still greater than 70°C.
  • This temperature Tg may be determined by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry) .
  • the monomers used in the emulsion polymerization in the core polymer of the hollow particles of the invention are preferably constituted of one or more monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group.
  • the core comprises at least 5% by weight of monoethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid group, relative to the total weight of the core monomers.
  • the core polymer may for example be obtained by emulsion homopolymerization of the monoethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one acid group or by copolymerization of two or three monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group.
  • the monoethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one acid group is copolymerized with one or more ethylenically unsaturated nonionic monomers.
  • the core polymer or the shell polymer may contain from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, of polyethylenically unsaturated monomers such as ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, allyl (meth) acrylate, 1, 3-butanediol di (meth) acrylate ,diethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, or divinylbenzene, relative to the total weight of core monomers.
  • the core polymer or the shell polymer may optionally contain from 0.1% to 60% by weight of butadiene, relative to the total weight of core monomers.
  • the monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group include, for example: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acryloyloxypropionic acid, (meth) acryloyloxypropionic acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, monomethyl maleate, monomethyl fumarate, and monomethyl itaconate.
  • Use will be made more particularly of a monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • the monoethylenically unsaturated nonionic monomers include, for example: styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, (meth) acrylamide, C 1 -C 20 alkyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid, and (C 3 -C 20 ) alkenyl esters of (meth) acrylic acid, such as methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, benzyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate, oleyl (meth) acrylate, palmityl (meth) acrylate, and stearyl (meth) acrylate.
  • the term (meth) acrylic will denote the general expression encompassing both methacrylic or acrylic.
  • the term (meth) acrylic
  • the void part of the core of the hollow particles is preferably produced by swelling the core with a swelling agent comprising one or more volatile compounds.
  • the agent penetrates the shell in order to swell the core.
  • the volatile components of the swelling agent may be subsequently removed by drying the hollow particles, thus creating a void within the said particles.
  • the agent is preferably an aqueous base. Mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, and volatile amines such as trimethylamine or triethylamine.
  • the hollow particles may be introduced into the composition of the invention with the swelling agent. In that case the volatile compounds are removed when the composition is dried.
  • the hollow particles may also be added to the composition after the volatile compounds of the swelling agent have been removed.
  • the hollow particles which can be used according to the invention are those described in patent US 5,663,213 and patent application EP 1092421.
  • the hollow particles used will be those constituted of a copolymer of styrene and (meth) acrylic acid or one of its C 1 -C 20 alkyl esters under the INCI name Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, such as the product sold under the trade name Sunspheres TM Powder by the company Rohm & Haas, which containing 86% of Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer in a mixture of 11% of PEG-8 Laurate, 2.5% of water, and 0.5% of Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate.
  • a copolymer of styrene and (meth) acrylic acid or one of its C 1 -C 20 alkyl esters under the INCI name Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer such as the product sold under the trade name Sunspheres TM Powder by the company Rohm & Haas, which containing 86% of Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer in a mixture of
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises the hollow particle (s) in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the present invention relates to a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, comprising:
  • the weight ratio of the white pigment (i) to the hollow particles (iii) ranges from 0.1 to 3.
  • the weight ratio of the white pigment (i) to the hollow particles (iii) ranges from 0.5 to 1.5.
  • the composition is intended to brighten or whiten keratin materials, and meanwhile remaining a hydration and fresh feeling after application.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C 2 to C 8 lower polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, and isoprene glycol, glycerol and polyethylene glycols.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any common water-soluble or water-dispersible additive as mentioned below.
  • the aqueous phase may represent from 30% to 98% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, better still from 50% to 90% by weight and even better still from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the present invention comprises at least one oily phase, dispersed in the aqueous phase as described above.
  • the nature of the oily phase of the emulsion according to the invention is not critical.
  • the oily phase comprises at least one oil.
  • oils refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.
  • the term ′′silicone oil′′ refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.
  • fluorine oil′′ refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is used in the present invention.
  • Mentions may be made of these type of oils such as mono-or di-esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, or ethylhexyl palmitate.
  • ethylhexyl palmitate which is commercially available under the tradename Cegesoft C24 sold by the company BASF.
  • silicone oils mentions may be made of, for example, linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) , and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphen
  • polydimethylsiloxane which is available under the trademark PMX-200 silicone fluid 10cs sold by the company Dow Corning, or DM 10 sold by the company Wacker.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of esters the carboxylic acid residue contains from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one oil chosen from ethylhexyl palmitate, linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, or a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of oily phase in the composition of the invention is less than 35% of the total weight of the composition and preferably less than or equal to 34% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of oily phase may range, for example, from 1% to 35% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35% by weight and better still from 4% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this amount of oily phase does not comprise the amount of emulsifier.
  • composition of the invention may also contain one or more additives that are common in cosmetics or dermatology.
  • additional dyestuffs basic agents (triethanolamine, diethanolamine or sodium hydroxide) or acidic agents (citric acid)
  • lipid vesicles or any other type of vector nanocapsules, microcapsules, etc.
  • additives are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetics field, for example from 0.01% to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and, depending on their nature, they are introduced into the aqueous phase of the composition or into the oily phase, or alternatively into vesicles or any other type of vector.
  • composition according to the invention it is possible to incorporate therein one or more hydrophilic gelling agents.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents examples include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names (INCI name: Carbomer) by the company Lubrizol; polyacrylamides, for instance Ultrez and from the company Lubrizol; acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, such as those sold under the tradename Permulen TR-1 by the company Lubrizol; homopolymer derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, for example the product sold by the company Clariant under the trade name
  • Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyl taurate) ; polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance gellan gum, such as the ones sold by the company CP Kelco under the tradename CG LA, xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof.
  • gellan gum such as the ones sold by the company CP Kelco under the tradename CG LA, xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates and modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof.
  • these gelling agents When they are present, these gelling agents must be introduced in an amount such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention.
  • the gelling agents are selected from the group consisting of carbomer, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium polyacryldimethyl taurate, xanthan gum, or a mixture thereof.
  • the gelling agent may be present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may be, for example, in any of the galenical forms of emulsions, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.
  • composition of the present invention is in the form of oil-in-water emulsion, for example in the form of a serum, a milk or a cream, and they are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • compositions that are the subject of the invention are intended for topical application and can especially constitute a composition intended, for example, for caring for (anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, moisturizing, antisun, etc. ) , treating, cleansing and making up keratin materials, and especially human skin.
  • a subject of the invention is a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to the said keratin materials.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin, comprising the step of applying the composition as defined above to the keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above in brightening or whitening keratin materials, in particular human skin.
  • the percentages are weight percentages by active ingredient, or active matters.
  • Comparative formulas K, L, and M contain, respectively, film forming agents, including silicones, but all of which are outside of the definition of the ingredient (ii) of present invention.
  • phase A heating phase A to 80°C until dissolved, adding A1 to phase A and homogenize for 30 min;
  • phase B heating phase B to 75°C until dissolved, adding B1 to phase B and homogenize for 8 min;
  • phase B and C mixing phase B and C into phase A and homogenize for 10 min;
  • the homogenizer used in the process is sold by the company VMI.
  • the value L* black was evaluated during 24 hours after the application of formulas on the card, in order to obtain the change of L* black over time.
  • L* black value represents the brightening or whitening effect of the skin, higher value is preferred.
  • the measurement was taken in a standardized manner at 20°C with a humidity of 45%, and at 37°C with a humidity of 60%, after application with the bare fingers of the invention formula D onto the skin of a model.
  • a colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after application of the invention formula D was carried out by measuring the means for the panel of 16 women models, C* (chroma, the distance out from the neutral axis-saturationv) , H* (hue, the angle/direction in the 360 degree range) , and L* (lightness) , respectively.
  • the brightening and whitening effect was calculated by the deltaE 94 after application of the invention and comparative formulas.
  • the deltaE, dE or else ⁇ E 94 is defined as a measurement of difference between two colors.
  • the formula was published in 1995 by a technical committee of the CIE (TC 1-29) , as shown below:
  • K L , K 1 and K 2 are weighting factors
  • L 1 *, C 1 *and H 1 * are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first color to be compared and L 2 *, C 2 *and H 2 *those of the second.
  • the measurement was performed on a panel of 16 women models, who were kept in an air-conditioned (temperature 21°C +/-1°C, humidity 45% +/-5%) for 30 minutes. An image at T 0 was taken using Chromasphere on the bare skin of the women models.
  • an image of the cheek with the invention formula D was acquired using the Chromasphere. This image made it possible to measure the color immediately after applying the invention formula D (T imm ) .
  • the women models then stayed in a hammam room (temperature 37°C +/-l°C, humidity 60% +/-5%) for 1 hour. Then they returned to the air-conditioned room waiting for 1 hour.
  • an image of the cheek with the invention formula D was taken using Chromasphcrc. This image made it possible to measure the color when the women models were exposed to heat and humid situations for 1 hour, and in total 2 hours after application of the invention formula D on the cheek (T 2h ) .
  • Each image obtained using the camera was processed by coxellography.
  • the standard deviation of each monochrome plane was calculated.
  • the product of the three standard deviations was equal to the coxellographic index. This parameter was used for the statistical calculation. The more uniform the skin, the smaller the standard deviation.
  • the coxellographic index changes in the same way since it is the product of the standard deviations of the three planes C* (chroma) , H* (hue) , and L* (lightness) .
  • the invention formula D remains a good brightening or whitening effect under heat and humid situation.
  • the invention formula D has a good water and sebum resistance.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition sous forme d'émulsion comprenant une phase huileuse dispersée dans une phase aqueuse, et comprend i) au moins un pigment blanc; ii) au moins une résine de silicone choisie parmi une résine MTQ; et iii) des particules creuses. Elle concerne également un procédé utilisé pour le soin et/ou la fabrication de matières kératiniques.
PCT/CN2015/098316 2015-12-22 2015-12-22 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques WO2017107066A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201580085494.0A CN108430433A (zh) 2015-12-22 2015-12-22 用于增白或美白角蛋白材料的组合物
PCT/CN2015/098316 WO2017107066A1 (fr) 2015-12-22 2015-12-22 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques

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PCT/CN2015/098316 WO2017107066A1 (fr) 2015-12-22 2015-12-22 Composition pour éclaircir ou blanchir des matières kératiniques

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010149493A2 (fr) * 2009-06-25 2010-12-29 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comportant un copolymere styrene/acrylate et une resine silicone
WO2015089750A1 (fr) * 2013-12-18 2015-06-25 L'oreal Composition d'émulsion de pickering comprenant une faible quantité d'alcool

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2403429T3 (es) * 2007-12-05 2013-05-17 L'oreal Procedimiento cosmético que emplea una composición que comprende una resina de siloxano y un disolvente volátil hidrocarbonado

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2010149493A2 (fr) * 2009-06-25 2010-12-29 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comportant un copolymere styrene/acrylate et une resine silicone
WO2015089750A1 (fr) * 2013-12-18 2015-06-25 L'oreal Composition d'émulsion de pickering comprenant une faible quantité d'alcool

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