WO2017036636A1 - Produit de soin épaissi pour la peau - Google Patents

Produit de soin épaissi pour la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017036636A1
WO2017036636A1 PCT/EP2016/065814 EP2016065814W WO2017036636A1 WO 2017036636 A1 WO2017036636 A1 WO 2017036636A1 EP 2016065814 W EP2016065814 W EP 2016065814W WO 2017036636 A1 WO2017036636 A1 WO 2017036636A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
cosmetic
composition according
acid
active ingredient
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PCT/EP2016/065814
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Iris Marina Stadler
Ira Hartmann
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2017036636A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017036636A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A61K8/9717—Rhodophycota or Rhodophyta [red algae], e.g. Porphyra
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin care based on a specific thickener combination, the use of this specific thickener combination for improving the temperature stability of cosmetic compositions, and a method for skin care, in which a cosmetic composition is applied to the skin, in particular the facial skin.
  • Human skin as the largest human organ, performs many vital functions. With an average surface area of about 2 m 2 in adult humans, it plays an outstanding role as a protective and sensory organ. The task of this organ is to mediate and ward off mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemical and biological stimuli. In addition, it plays an important role as regulatory and target organ in human metabolism.
  • the cosmetic treatment of the skin is therefore an important part of human body care.
  • the aim of skin care in the cosmetic sense is to strengthen or restore the natural function of the skin as a barrier against weather and environmental influences and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes) and to slow down the natural aging process to give a young and healthy appearance.
  • these preparations contain the cosmetically active ingredients, preferably in admixture and / or in high concentration.
  • the physical stabilization of complex or highly concentrated drug systems has proven difficult.
  • this technical difficulty can be met with the use of increased amounts of thickeners or emulsifiers, this does adversely affect cosmetic parameters such as the feel on the skin, the ability to absorb and the stickiness of the cosmetic composition.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a thickening system which is suitable for cosmetic compositions with high active ingredient content and low emulsifier content.
  • the cosmetic compositions should be distinguished by good cosmetic compatibility, good applicability and low stickiness.
  • the advantageous cosmetic properties of the composition should also be maintained over a long period of time and also under rigid conditions (eg long storage at elevated temperatures), as is their physical stability.
  • European Patent Application EP 2 198 851 A2 discloses a thickener system comprising at least one crosslinked copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid, at least a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of pentaerythritol and / or sucrose and at least one ⁇ -hydroxy-hydroxy-polyoxydimethylsilylene.
  • aqueous cosmetic compositions can be stabilized outstandingly by a thickener system comprising (a) at least one crosslinked homopolyacrylic acid, (b) at least one hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer and (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener.
  • the present invention provides:
  • An aqueous cosmetic composition containing:
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 1 containing 60 to 92 wt .-%, preferably 70 to 90 wt .-%, in particular 75 to 85 wt .-% water.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points containing, based on its total weight, 0, 1 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 %
  • Cross-linked homopolyacrylic acid a containing, based on its total weight, 0, 1 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 %
  • Cross-linked homopolyacrylic acid a containing, based on its total weight, 0, 1 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 %
  • Cross-linked homopolyacrylic acid a containing, based on its total weight, 0, 1 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 %
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points containing, based on its total weight, 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 %
  • hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer b containing, based on its total weight, 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 %
  • At least one monomer (b2) from the group of unsaturated hydrophobically modified monomers is selected from the group of unsaturated hydrophobically modified monomers
  • composition according to one of the preceding points wherein the hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer b) is a compound from the group with the INCI name Acrylates / Oo-30-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points containing, based on its total weight, 0.05 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 1, 0 % By weight of hydrophilic thickener c).
  • composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the hydrophilic thickener c) is a polysaccharide, preferably a xanthan.
  • composition containing, based on their total weight, 0.4 to 2.4 wt .-%, preferably 0.8 to 2.0 wt .-% and in particular 1, 2 to 1, 8% by weight of components a), b) and c).
  • composition according to one of the preceding points, wherein the weight ratio of cross-linked homopolyacrylic acid a) to hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer b) 2: 1 to 1: 10, preferably 2: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 2: 1 to 1: 2.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points containing, based on its total weight, less than 1, 0 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.5 wt .-% and in particular less than 0.1 wt .-% additional thickening polymers.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points containing, based on its total weight, 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-% and in particular 1, 2 to 6.0 wt. -% of cosmetically active ingredient d).
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points wherein the cosmetically active ingredient d) comprises a chemical peeling agent, preferably a glucosamine, in particular glucosamine hydrochloride.
  • At least two vitamins, provitamins or a vitamin precursor called compounds from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances and at least two, preferably at least three, especially at least four plant extracts and at least one chemical peeling agent ,
  • composition according to one of the preceding points containing, based on its total weight, less than 1, 0 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.5 wt .-% and in particular less than 0.1 wt .-% emulsifier. 21. Use of a combination comprising
  • an aqueous composition containing a cosmetic active ingredient for improving the temperature stability, an aqueous composition containing a cosmetic active ingredient.
  • a method for cosmetic skin care in which a cosmetic composition according to any one of items 1 to 20 is applied to the skin, in particular the facial skin.
  • a first subject of the present application is an aqueous cosmetic composition containing:
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are aqueous, ie comprise an aqueous carrier.
  • the composition according to the invention is preferably viscous-liquid.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized, based on their total weight, by a water content of 60 to 92% by weight, preferably 70 to 90% by weight, in particular 75 to 85% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention may further contain from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30 and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight, of at least one alcohol, based on their total weight.
  • Preferred alcohols are glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, 1 , 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances ,
  • compositions of the invention contain as alcohol 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, dipropylene glycol and / or tripropylene glycol, in particular 1, 2-propylene glycol and glycerol.
  • compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of a hydrogel.
  • Hydrogels are water-containing gels based on hydrophilic but water-insoluble polymers, which exist as three-dimensional networks. In water, these networks swell up to an equilibrium volume while retaining their shape. The network formation occurs predominantly via chemical linkage of the individual polymer chains, but is also physical by electrostatic, hydrophobic or dipole / dipole interactions between individual segments of the polymer chains possible.
  • the choice of the monomers used for the polymer synthesis, the type of crosslinking and the crosslinking density can be used to tailor desired properties of the hydrogels.
  • the necessary hydrophilicity of the polymers provide, inter alia, hydroxyl, carboxylate, sulfonate and / or amide groups.
  • Cosmetic compositions based on this combination are distinguished by good cosmetic compatibility, good applicability and low tack compared to the conventional compositions of the prior art and, moreover, are physically and chemically stable even at elevated temperatures for a long time.
  • Physical stability is the stability of the rheological properties of the cosmetic composition and its stability against phase separation, including the stability against the sedimentation of suspended solids.
  • chemical stability refers to the stability against chemical conversion or decomposition as it can be checked for example by activity test of the cosmetically active ingredients d).
  • the proportion by weight of the crosslinked homopolyacrylic acid a), as the first essential constituent of compositions according to the invention, is preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 1.0 wt .-%.
  • the crosslinked homopolyacrylic acid a) is used according to the invention as a thickener and gelling agent and thus supports the formation of a Hydyrogels.
  • the homopolyacrylic acid can be crosslinked, for example, by means of pentaerythritol or sucrose allyl ether or by means of propylene.
  • Corresponding cross-linked homopolyacrylic acid a) are, for example, the products commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Carbomer.
  • Examples of particularly preferred Carbopol commercial products are the polymers of the Carbopol Ultrez ® - series, in particular Carbopol Ultrez 30 ® (ex Lubrizol).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains a hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid b), the proportion by weight of which is Total weight of the composition is preferably 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.4 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 1, 0 wt .-%.
  • hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymers b it is preferable to use copolymers based on
  • At least one monomer (b2) from the group of unsaturated hydrophobically modified monomers is selected from the group of unsaturated hydrophobically modified monomers
  • Preferred copolymers b) are based on at least one monomer (b1) from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl acrylates, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl methacrylates.
  • the acrylic acid esters and methacrylic acid esters are preferably esters of the respective acids with non-tertiary alkyl alcohols having alkyl radicals of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • Suitable monomers are ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl acrylate, 2-methylbutyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, n-octyl acrylate, isooctyl acrylate, isooctyl methacrylate, isononyl acrylate and isodecyl acrylate.
  • the group of hydrophobically modified monomers (b2) denotes monomers which have a hydrophobic substructure.
  • preferred monomers (b2) can be attributed to the two structural units that follow:
  • an unsaturated acid preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or itaconic acid
  • a Cs-4o alkyl chain preferably a Cio soAlkylkette
  • These two partial structures may optionally be supplemented by a third structural unit from the group of the polyoxyalkylene groups, preferably the polyethylene glycol groups, the polypropylene glycol groups or the polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol groups.
  • the monomers (b2) used are, for example, C 1 -C 5 -alkyl acrylates, C 1 -C 4 -alkyl PEG acrylates, C 1 -C 5 -alkyl PEG-methacrylates or Cio-soAlkyl PEG-itaconates.
  • Preferred monomers (b2) are selected from the Cio-soAlkyl acrylates, Cio-soAlkyl PEG 20-25 acrylates, Cio-soAlkyl PEG 20-25 methacrylates or Cio soAlkyl PEG 20-25 itaconates.
  • Particularly preferred monomers (b2) are selected from the group of Cio soAlkyl acrylates, steareth-20 methacrylates, beheneth-25 methacrylates, steareth-20 itaconates, ceteth-20 itaconates, palmeth-25 acrylates or Cio soAlkyl PEG-20 itaconates.
  • hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymers b) are preferred which at least one monomer (b1) from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl acrylates, C 1 -C 6 -alkyl methacrylates, and
  • hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymers b) are formed except from the previously described monomers (b1) and (b2) from at least one monomer (b3) from the group of unsaturated amine-containing monomers.
  • Monomers (b3) are preferably monomers from the group of acrylamide, methacrylamide, mono- (C 1 -C 4) -alkylamino (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl acrylate, di- (C 1 -C 4) -alkylamino (C 1 -C 4) -alkyl acrylate, mono - (Ci-C4) -alkylamino (Ci-C4) -alkyl methacrylate, di- (Ci-C4) -alkylamino (Ci-C4) -alkylmethacrylat used.
  • Exemplary and preferred monomers (A2) are 2- (N, N-dimethylamino) ethyl acrylate, 2- (N, N-dimethylamino) ethyl methacrylate, 2- (N, N-diethylamino) ethyl acrylate, 2- (N, N Diethylamino) ethyl methacrylate, 3- (N, N-dimethylamino) propyl acrylate, 3- (N, N-dimethylamino) propyl methacrylate, 2- (N, N-dimethylamino) neopentyl acrylate, N '- (3 N, N-dimethylamino) propyl acrylamide, N '- (3-N, N-dimethylamino) propyl methacrylamide.
  • Particularly preferably used hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymers b) are crosslinked.
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer b) is selected from the group of compounds with the INCI designations Acrylates / Cio-30-Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Cio-3o-Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino acrylate / Cio-3oAlkyl PEG-20 itaconate copolymer.
  • the hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer b) is selected from
  • Corresponding polymers are ®, for example, under the trade names Carbopol ETD 2020 Luvigel ® FIT, Ultrez ® 21, Pemulen ® TR1, Aculyn ® 22, Aculyn ® 28, Aculyn ® 88, Structure ® 2001 Structure ® 3001, Synthalen W2000 and Structure ® Plus available.
  • the hydrophobically modified (meth) acrylic acid copolymer b) is a compound from the group with the INCI name Acrylat.es/C10-30-Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer.
  • the third essential component of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is the hydrophilic thickener c).
  • the proportion by weight of the hydrophilic thickener c) on the total weight that of the cosmetic composition is preferably 0.05 to 2.0 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 1, 0 wt .-%.
  • hydrophilic thickeners in particular compounds from the group of polysaccharides are suitable.
  • examples include representatives of celluloses (cellulose itself and its derivatives), alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, alginates), agar agar (with the agarose polysaccharide present in agar agar), starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose , Amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, dextrans, guar gum and xanthan gum.
  • Suitable cellulose derivatives are methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) and their physiologically tolerated salts.
  • anionic polysaccharides such as carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum.
  • Carboxymethylcelluloses, alginic acids and xanthan gum are referred to as anionic polysaccharides in the context of the present invention, in addition to their physiologically tolerated salts, since the carboxylic acid groups present in these polysaccharides inevitably dissociate to a greater or lesser extent in water or aqueous formulation, forming anionic carboxylate groups whose number increases with increasing pH.
  • xanthan preferably xanthan with the INCI name xanthan gum
  • xanthan gum is present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions therefore contain, based on their total weight, from 0.4 to 2.4% by weight, preferably 0.8 to 2.0 wt .-% and in particular 1, 2 to 1, 8 wt .-% of the components a), b) and c).
  • the stability of the cosmetic compositions can be improved by the use of components a), b) and c) in specific proportions.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a cosmetically appealing manner without the addition of relevant amounts of further thickening additives.
  • the cosmetic compositions therefore preferably contain, based on their total weight, less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and in particular less than 0.1% by weight of additional thickening polymers.
  • compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for the formulation of high contents of cosmetic active ingredients.
  • preferred compositions according to the invention are further characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1, 0 to 8.0 wt .-% and in particular 1, 2 to 6.0 wt. -% cosmetically active ingredient d). These weights are based on the active ingredients actually used without consideration of any accompanying substances such as solvents, preservatives or the like.
  • a preferred group of cosmetically active agents d) are the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that the cosmetically active ingredient d) comprises a vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances.
  • vitamin A includes retinol and 3,4-didehydroretinol.
  • Beta-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include: vitamin B-1 (thiamine), vitamin B-2 (riboflavin), vitamin B-3 (under this name often the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) led), vitamin B-5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone).
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • Vitamin B-6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents according to the invention.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Particularly preferred is the use of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially .alpha.-tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are contained in particularly preferred agents according to the invention.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and / or H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are also preferred.
  • a second group of preferred cosmetically active agents d) comprises the algae extracts, extracts of blue-green algae being particularly preferred.
  • Blue algae - also called cyanobacteria - are bacteria that lack the nucleus, mitochondria, and chloroplasts.
  • the cell envelope of the blue-green algae consists of a cytoplasmic mambrane surrounded by a murein layer and an outer cell wall of lipopolysaccharides and proteins.
  • Blue-green algae also contain pigments for photosynthesis. It is preferred according to the invention to use a blue-green extract of blue-green algae of the order Oscillatoriales (according to the taxonomy database of the National Center for Biotechnology Information of the USA) in the compositions according to the invention. It is particularly preferred to use an extract of the blue-green algae of the genus Spirulina.
  • a blue-green algae extract from Spirulina Platensis can be used very particularly preferably within the scope of the invention.
  • the algae extract can be obtained by conventional extraction methods.
  • the plant extracts form another group of preferred cosmetic active ingredients d).
  • plant extracts as cosmetically active agents d) may optionally be dispensed with otherwise customary preservative.
  • Opuntia ficus indica is a species of the genus Opuntia of the cactus family (Cactaceae), which is native to India.
  • Bambusa vulgaris (Goldbamboo) is a plant of the grass family (Poaceae), which occurs predominantly in Southeast Asia and Africa.
  • Pisum sativum is a plant of the genus Peas (Pisum) from the legume family (Fabaceae) and is native to Asia Minor.
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or Pisum sativum extract support collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin and, especially in combination with an extract of Opuntia ficus indica, contribute considerably to the achievement of a particularly even and elastic appearance of the skin.
  • Cosmetic compositions containing a combination of all three of these particularly preferred plant extracts are therefore particularly preferred.
  • a fourth group of preferred cosmetically active active ingredient d) forms the UV filter substances.
  • a UV filter By adding a UV filter, both the agent itself and the treated skin can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation.
  • at least one UV filter is added to the agent.
  • the suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1, 4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7J-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-buty
  • Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 1, 1'-diphenylacrylonitrilic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) and 2,2 '- (1,4-phenylene) bis [1 H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid] and its sodium salts (disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonates).
  • Another group of particularly preferred cosmetic active ingredients d) form the chemical peeling active ingredients, in particular the glucosamine and the glucosamine hydrochloride.
  • Exfoliation is a cosmetic treatment in which superficial layers of the skin are removed flatly. While superficial exfoliation removes only the upper horny layer of the skin mechanically or chemically, the entire horny layer is chemically removed during middle-depth exfoliation.
  • Suitable for the chemical peeling are, for example, fruit acids such as glycolic acid, 2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid (also lipohydroxy acid or LHA), trichloroacetic acids, vitamin A acid (tretinoin) or glucosamine hydrochloride, with the glucosamine, especially the glucosamine hydrochloride being particularly has proved effective.
  • fruit acids such as glycolic acid, 2-hydroxy-5-octanoylbenzoic acid (also lipohydroxy acid or LHA), trichloroacetic acids, vitamin A acid (tretinoin) or glucosamine hydrochloride, with the glucosamine, especially the glucosamine hydrochloride being particularly has proved effective.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points wherein the cosmetically active ingredient d) comprises a vitamin, provitamin or a compound called vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points wherein the cosmetically active ingredient d) comprises an algae extract.
  • Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding points wherein the cosmetically active ingredient d) comprises a chemical peeling agent, preferably a glucosamine, in particular glucosamine hydrochloride.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are suitable for compounding a plurality of cosmetic active ingredients.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions contain
  • At least two vitamins, provitamins or a vitamin precursor called compounds from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances and at least two, preferably at least three, especially at least four plant extracts and at least one chemical peeling agent ,
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention do not require the addition of further stabilizers, such as, for example, the solubilizing emulsifiers.
  • a characteristic of preferred cosmetic compositions is therefore their content of less than 1, 0 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.5 wt .-% and in particular less than 0.1 wt .-% emulsifier (in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic Composition).
  • composition of some preferred cosmetic compositions can be seen from the following tables (% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, unless stated otherwise).
  • Formula 15 Formula 16 Formula 17 Formula 18 Crosslinked 0, 1 to 2.0 0.2 to 1.5, 0.4 to 1.0, 0.4 to 1.0 Homopolyacrylic acid hydrophobically modified (meth) - 0.2 to 2.0 0.4 to 1.5 0.4 to 1.0 0.4 to 1.0 acrylic acid copolymer )
  • thickening xanthan gum 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.2 to 1.0 cosmetically active ingredient 0.5 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.2 to 6 , 0 2.0 to 6.0
  • Formula 31 Formula 32
  • Formula 33 Formula 34 crosslinked 0.1 to 2.0 0.2 to 1.5 0.4 to 1.0 0.4 to 1.0 homopolyacrylic acid
  • hydrophilic thickener 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.2 to 1.0 cosmetically active ingredient 2) 0.5 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.2 to 6.0 2.0 to 6.0
  • thickening xanthan gum 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.2 to 1.0 cosmetically active ingredient 2) 0.5 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.2 to 6.0 2.0 to 6.0
  • Formula 51 Formula 52
  • Formula 53 Formula 54
  • hydrophilic thickener 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.2 to 1.0 cosmetically active ingredient 3) 0.5 to 10 1.0 to 8.0 1.2 to 6.0 2.0 to 6.0
  • Carbomer cross-linked 0.1 to 2.0 0.2 to 1.5 0.4 to 1.0 0.4 to 1.0 homopolyacrylic acid
  • Xanthan Gum 0.05 to 2.0 0.1 to 1.5 0.2 to 1.0 0.2 to 1.0 cosmetically active ingredient 3) 0.5 to 10 1, 0 to 8.0 1, 2 to 6.0 2.0 to 6.0
  • At least one monomer (b1) from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, C1-C6-alkylacrylic acid esters, Ci-C6-Alkylmethacrylklareester, and
  • a combination of constituents a), b) and c) is particularly suitable for improving the physical and chemical stability of active-agent-containing cosmetics.
  • Another object of the present application is the use of a combination comprising
  • an aqueous composition containing a cosmetic active ingredient for improving the temperature stability, an aqueous composition containing a cosmetic active ingredient.
  • a third aspect of the present invention is a process for cosmetic skin care in which a cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied to the skin, in particular the facial skin.

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Abstract

Composition cosmétique aqueuse contenant: a) au moins un acide homopolyacrylique réticulé transversalement; b) au moins un copolymère d'acide (méth)acrylique hydrophobiquement modifié; (c) au moins un épaississant hydrophile; et d) au moins un agent cosmétiquement actif; et procédé de soin cosmétique pour la peau utilisant une telle composition.
PCT/EP2016/065814 2015-08-31 2016-07-05 Produit de soin épaissi pour la peau WO2017036636A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102015216609.0A DE102015216609A1 (de) 2015-08-31 2015-08-31 Verdicktes Hautpflegeprodukt
DE102015216609.0 2015-08-31

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FR3095588B1 (fr) * 2019-05-02 2021-11-19 Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique Nouvelle formulation topique modulant les voies de la nociception

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004043423A1 (fr) * 2002-11-12 2004-05-27 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation cosmetique nettoyante thermoresistante a base de polyacrylates
FR2924941A1 (fr) * 2007-12-18 2009-06-19 Oreal Procede cosmetique de soin d'une peau ridee
EP2198851A2 (fr) 2008-12-17 2010-06-23 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Emulsions huile/eau épaissies
DE102011085586A1 (de) * 2011-11-02 2013-05-02 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Zingeron zur verbesserten Hautkonturierung bzw. gegen Cellulite

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004043423A1 (fr) * 2002-11-12 2004-05-27 Beiersdorf Ag Preparation cosmetique nettoyante thermoresistante a base de polyacrylates
FR2924941A1 (fr) * 2007-12-18 2009-06-19 Oreal Procede cosmetique de soin d'une peau ridee
EP2198851A2 (fr) 2008-12-17 2010-06-23 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Emulsions huile/eau épaissies
DE102011085586A1 (de) * 2011-11-02 2013-05-02 Beiersdorf Ag Verwendung von Zingeron zur verbesserten Hautkonturierung bzw. gegen Cellulite

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Title
"Research disclosure", RESEARCH DISCLOSURE, MASON PUBLICATIONS, HAMPSHIRE, GB, vol. 568, no. 19, 1 August 2011 (2011-08-01), pages 941, XP007140749, ISSN: 0374-4353 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; July 2015 (2015-07-01), "Sunscreen Gel SPF 40 PA+++", XP002760298, Database accession no. 3296837 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; May 2015 (2015-05-01), "Eye Gel", XP002760297, Database accession no. 3194691 *

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