EP2262473A2 - Produit pour le traitement des cheveux, avec de l'extrait de plaquebière - Google Patents

Produit pour le traitement des cheveux, avec de l'extrait de plaquebière

Info

Publication number
EP2262473A2
EP2262473A2 EP09733039A EP09733039A EP2262473A2 EP 2262473 A2 EP2262473 A2 EP 2262473A2 EP 09733039 A EP09733039 A EP 09733039A EP 09733039 A EP09733039 A EP 09733039A EP 2262473 A2 EP2262473 A2 EP 2262473A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
acid
cloudberry
cosmetic composition
fruit extract
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP09733039A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marcus Krueger
Dieter Goddinger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP2262473A2 publication Critical patent/EP2262473A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic agents for the treatment of keratinic fibers containing an extract of the fruits of Rubus Chamaemorus (Cloudberry) and the use of a Cloudberry fruit extract in cosmetic agents for the treatment of keratinic fibers to improve the moisture keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair, for Protecting the fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation, protecting the fibers from destructuring and improving the color retention and color intensity of dyed fibers.
  • Cloudberry an extract of the fruits of Rubus Chamaemorus
  • Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.
  • Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product.”
  • 2-in-1 product Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product.”
  • the formulation of 2-in-1 products in combination with an oxidative treatment of keratin-containing fibers is difficult for a person skilled in the art.
  • reactive oxidative ingredients such as hydrogen peroxide
  • the permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide.
  • the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage.
  • a care complex should be provided which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents.
  • the aim is also that the hair is protected from aggressive oxidizing agents or UV radiation by suitable ingredients.
  • Another disadvantage of strong and frequent sun exposure is that the hair color changes or fades faster. Also, this effect should optimally be avoided or reduced, and without the need for the use of other care products.
  • the above-described side effects with the 2-in-1 product should already be reduced during the oxidative hair treatment but also after the oxidative hair treatment, without deteriorating the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fastness, whitening power or wave action.
  • the oxidative treatment keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.
  • Cloudberry fruit extract an extract from the fruits of the Rubus Chamaemorus
  • Cloudberry fruit extract Under the name “Cloudberry” is referred to in this document, the fruit of cloudberry (Rubus Chamaemorus).
  • a first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier an extract from the fruits of Rubus chamaemorus (cloudberry fruit extract or cloudberry fruit extract).
  • the cosmetic agents are used to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • an oxidative hair treatment the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably immediately before, during or after the oxidative
  • Cloudberry fruit extract used.
  • Cloudberry fruit extract containing agent has previously been rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet.
  • Bleach or the waving agent is applied to the preferably still wet, towel-dried hair, or only after several hours or days on the dry or wet
  • the agent according to the invention can in this case after a
  • Exposure time from a few seconds to 45 minutes are rinsed out or completely on the hair.
  • both agents can be mixed together, or applied to the hair successively without intermediate rinsing step.
  • both agents optionally just before use, can be mixed together, or applied to the hair successively without intermediate rinsing step.
  • the oxidative cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains a cloudberry fruit extract.
  • the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier.
  • cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers.
  • An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60%
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy, in particular methanol,
  • Ethanol or propanol isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, isohexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand.
  • the compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • a preferably used according to the invention Cloudberry fruit extract is sold under the trade name Fruitliquid Cloudberry ® Fa. Crodarom (INCI name (EU): Glycerin, Aqua, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract in Glycerol
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the cloudberry fruit extract - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight.
  • the agents according to the invention also contain at least one further active ingredient.
  • This further active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of non-surface-active betaines, ubiquinones, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, nicotinic acid, their derivatives and physiologically acceptable salts.
  • this further active ingredient is selected from the group formed from L-carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol, nicotinamide and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • derivative is understood to mean an easily accessible, structurally closely related derivative of the starting substance, which can usually be represented by only one reaction step. usually on a functional group.
  • exemplary derivatives are the reaction products by derivatization of hydroxy, thiol, amino, carbonyl, carboxyl or carboxamide groups.
  • Preferred methods of derivatization are oxidation, reduction, alkylation, acylation, esterification, saponification, (de) protonation (salification with physiologically acceptable acids or bases) and peptide formation.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention within this embodiment are those which contain the cloudberry fruit extract and the further active ingredient in a weight ratio in the range of 1: 30 to 50: 1, preferably in the range of 1:10 to 30: 1 and in particular in the range of 1 : 5 to 10: 1 included.
  • a particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are betaines.
  • the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (AI).
  • betaines of the formula (AI) are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, 3-0-lauroyl-L-carnitine hydrochloride, SO-octanoyl-L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O Palnnitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound N, N referred to in the literature as betaine , N-trimethylglycine.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I).
  • the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the cosmetic agent contains taurine and / or at least one of its derivatives in addition to the cloudberry fruit extract.
  • taurine is meant 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid.
  • Preferred taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine.
  • Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
  • taurine is used as the active ingredient in the composition according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention contain biochinones which act as coenzymes.
  • suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • the cosmetic agent contains a combination of coenzyme Q-10 (ubiquinone-50) and / or at least one of its derivatives and cranberry extract.
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and / or at least one of its derivatives and cloudberry fruit extract ,
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of cloudberry fruit extract and pantolactone ((R) -dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3AY) -furanone).
  • Very particularly preferred agents for the purposes of the present invention contain pantolactone.
  • the cosmetic agent contains a combination of pantothenic acid and / or at least one of its components
  • Pantothenic acid is preferred as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present
  • Panthenol and pantheine are Panthenol and pantheine.
  • the cosmetic agent contains a combination of nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide and / or at least one of the derivatives of these compounds with cloudberry fruit extract.
  • Nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide are also summarized under the name “niacin.” Both compounds have the same vitamin activity and can be interconverted by the organism.
  • agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group which is formed by carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol, nicotinamide and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol, nicotinamide and / or derivatives thereof in the form of natural product extracts obtained from natural products containing the corresponding active compounds or their derivatives. It is furthermore preferred according to the invention that the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one conditioner for the skin and / or the hair. preferred
  • Conditioners are selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and / or vegetable oils.
  • Tkat cationic surfactants
  • Cationic polymers may also be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are commercially available and, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia ® guar and Jaguar® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® HS 100, Gaffix ® VC 713, Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially, of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • the cationic polymers are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are preferred and amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Another group of substances which can additionally be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention are the silicone oils (also referred to below as silicones).
  • the cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
  • x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
  • the conditioning agent is a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa s, most preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa s.
  • the conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.
  • a vegetable oil may preferably be used in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Pfirichkernöl, Rapeseed Oil, Rice Oil, Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil, Buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil in question.
  • the vegetable oils are in the inventive compositions - based on the total weight of the agent - in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% used.
  • the agent according to the invention may be preferred according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair.
  • the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the compositions of the invention is excellent even in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to link disulphide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,
  • the oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent.
  • the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. According to task u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences.
  • the color-changing component is again preferably selected
  • the cosmetic composition additionally contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type
  • the developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group,
  • Diaminopyridine derivatives 1,3-bis(trifluoroethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(trifluoroethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(trifluoroethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(trifluoroethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(trifluoroethyl)-2-aminopyridine derivatives, 2,4,5,6
  • coupler components usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the developer components in an amount of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably contain the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.
  • the agent according to the invention can be used as a color-changing component in the form of
  • Oxofarbstoffvor at least one combination of at least one compound of
  • the actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, the cosmetic agent before the application of a
  • composition containing at least one color-modifying agent in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one color-modifying agent in a cosmetic carrier
  • Component and another composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent mixed.
  • the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-modifying ones Components, manufactured.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.
  • at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds.
  • the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself.
  • the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions.
  • Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxodisulfate salts, persulfate salts (especially ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxyphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide).
  • the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention.
  • the peroxodisulfates in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate.
  • the bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight.
  • the cosmetic agents of the invention when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for the particular preparation.
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle.
  • the choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.
  • at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen.
  • These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. len.
  • the ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5.
  • the ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2.
  • cationic surfactants are preferably used as surface-active substances or nonionic surfactants selected. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have been found. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total amount used in accordance with the invention Medium, used.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH), Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • amphoteric polymers as well as the cationic polymers according to the invention are very particularly preferred polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO 3 " groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik® 11-80.
  • the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF).
  • Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 in each case vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as marketed, for example, under the trademarks Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON) and Natrosol® types (Hercules).
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone as sold for example under the name Luviskol® (BASF).
  • the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the preparations used contain a plurality, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient.
  • Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis).
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • the amount is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols (D2) can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and most preferably C 12 -C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n- undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, and also di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, Di-3- ethyl decyl ether,
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit®
  • isononanoic acid C 16-i 8 alkyl ester Cetiol SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft® 24
  • stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol 868
  • cetyl oleate Glycerol tricaprylate
  • coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate Rosanit® IPP
  • oleyl oleate Cetiol®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol® A
  • di-n -butyl adipate Cetiol® B
  • myristyl myristate Cetio
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotricanecanoate, propylene glycol di ( 2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), triflic acid esters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), in which R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum is (m + n + q) 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • compositions further contain squalene.
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).
  • protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • L-alanyl-L-proline polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as .beta.-alanine, anthranilic acid or Hippuric acid can be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German Gelatin Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, potato, moringa, silk and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl extracts.
  • pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.
  • the protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. -% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • pantolactone and pantothenic acid and / or derivatives thereof which are particularly preferred for use according to the invention, active ingredients of the vitamin B group or of the vitamin B complex u. a.
  • Vitamin B 1 (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B riboflavin
  • Vitamin B 3 Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds.
  • Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for.
  • B. cationic surfactants such as Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or the like known as an amine fluoride, N, N, NMris- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N '-octadecyl-1, 3-diaminopropan- dihydrofluoride.
  • Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such.
  • the Polyhexamethylenbiguanid (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ' hexa-methylene-bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide (“chlorhexidine”) in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, eg. In the form of the acetate or gluconate.
  • chlorhexidine in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, eg. In the form of the acetate or gluconate.
  • the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z for example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine”).
  • suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers.
  • Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the 6,6 ' - methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene”) and the 2,4,4 ' trichloro-2 ' hydroxy-diphenyl ether ("Triclosan").
  • compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine.
  • Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.
  • compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges.
  • preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I) or (II)
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 of the formula (I) are selected independently of one another from -H, - OH, -NH 2 , -SH and the radicals R 4 , R 5 and R 6 of the formula (II) are selected independently of one another from H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 -CH 3 are substituted, whereby following connections according to formula (I):
  • Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the agent) can be used.
  • compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M).
  • M penetration aids and / or swelling agents
  • M include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol , 1, 5-pentanediol,
  • a particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins.
  • Hydantoins show several desirable beneficial effects in cosmetic compositions. One of these effects is their ability to favorably influence the swelling of the skin and hair. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates.
  • Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred.
  • hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - each based on the total agent - most preferably.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances to achieve certain effects, such as, for example, an anti-dandruff effect or effects against acne.
  • pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, ⁇ -blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.
  • Perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-%, based on the Total composition, the total composition added.
  • compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances.
  • Such a compound is that commercially available e.g. Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate available under the trade names Bitrex® and Indigo-stin®. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight. According to the invention, it is very particularly preferred to use the so-called edible acids as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention. These active compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • polyols according to the invention examples include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, sorb
  • Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain.
  • polystyrene resin examples include polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanedio
  • agents according to the invention which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0 , 05 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% polyhydroxy compound (s). According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds.
  • the polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are in the compositions in
  • Wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 wt .-% up to 20 wt .-%.
  • Medium additionally at least one UV sunscreen filter.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain UV-A and / or UV-B filters.
  • UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and A-
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, A-
  • Esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and
  • Propane-1,3-diones e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Suitable water-soluble substances are:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.
  • UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in Mixtures are used.
  • insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
  • aromatic alcohols such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol,
  • Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
  • Parabens for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben,
  • 1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain such as 1, 2
  • Pentanediol 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2
  • Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl
  • Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones, such as
  • Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,
  • Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride,
  • Citric acid lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid,
  • Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated
  • Etidronic Acid and its salts as well as mixtures of the substances listed above.
  • the amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt .-% and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt .-% based on the total amount of the composition.
  • the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • the pH of the compositions according to the invention is preferably between 2 and 12.
  • the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is adjusted using the carboxylic acids or mineral acids such as phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, etc., listed above.
  • Suitable alkalizing agents are inorganic compounds, preferably hydroxides or ammonia, as well as organic bases, preferably amines and including, in particular, alkanolamines.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention additionally comprise, in addition to a cloudberry fruit extract, one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xx) in a cosmetic carrier: (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic surfactant (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one UV absorber, (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic surfactant, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one UV absorber,
  • Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) a cloudberry fruit extract, additionally one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xx): (i) at least one color-modifying agent Component and at least one silicone, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic surfactant, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one UV absorber, (v) at least (iii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic surfactant, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer, (vii) viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one UV absorber, (ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone, (x) at least one
  • Preferred agents of the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier in addition to the
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) a cloudberry fruit extract, additionally one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xii): (i) at least one color-modifying agent (Ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one alkanolamine, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethanol, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia and 2-aminoethanol, (v) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethanol and L-arginine, (vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and
  • a second object of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for increasing the moisture of keratinic fibers.
  • a third object of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for the repair and restructuring of keratinic fibers.
  • a fourth subject of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for protecting keratinic fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation as well as other oxidative damage to keratinous fibers.
  • a fifth object of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for improving the color content and color intensity of colored keratinic fibers.
  • a sixth subject of the invention is a process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in which a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a cloudberry fruit extract in a cosmetic carrier, is applied and, if appropriate, rinsed off again after a contact time.
  • the exposure time of the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably a few seconds to 45 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
  • a preferred embodiment of the present invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed by the hair after an exposure time, immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic
  • an oxidative cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract, applied and optionally rinsed again after a contact time.
  • the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferred to apply the cloudberry fruit extract together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.
  • the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleach booster in one step in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract and optionally at least one bleaching enhancer.
  • the Bleach booster may also be formulated separately from the cloudberry fruit extract, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained.
  • the last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.
  • kit packaging unit
  • All components are mixed together.
  • the multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit.
  • the packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract, and optionally a third container containing at least one bleaching enhancer embedded in a cosmetic carrier.
  • All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container. The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.
  • a hair conditioner A hair conditioner
  • Stenol® 16/18 Ci 6 - 18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol;

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Abstract

L'extrait de fruit des plaquebières (Rubus chamaemorus) convient d'une manière excellente à une utilisation dans des produits pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux humains, pour améliorer l'humidité des fibres, pour la réparation et la restructuration des fibres et pour la protection des fibres vis-à-vis des oxydants et du rayonnement UV, et pour l'amélioration de la tenue de la couleur et de l'intensité de la couleur, dans la mesure où il s'agit, pour ce qui concerne les fibres, de cheveux colorés.
EP09733039A 2008-04-16 2009-04-08 Produit pour le traitement des cheveux, avec de l'extrait de plaquebière Ceased EP2262473A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102008019340A DE102008019340A1 (de) 2008-04-16 2008-04-16 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Cloudberry-Fruchtextrakt
PCT/EP2009/054196 WO2009127564A2 (fr) 2008-04-16 2009-04-08 Produit pour le traitement des cheveux, avec de l'extrait de plaquebière

Publications (1)

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EP2262473A2 true EP2262473A2 (fr) 2010-12-22

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EP09733039A Ceased EP2262473A2 (fr) 2008-04-16 2009-04-08 Produit pour le traitement des cheveux, avec de l'extrait de plaquebière

Country Status (4)

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US (1) US20110033407A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2262473A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102008019340A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2009127564A2 (fr)

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WO2009127564A2 (fr) 2009-10-22
WO2009127564A3 (fr) 2009-12-23
DE102008019340A1 (de) 2009-10-22

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