EP2262473A2

EP2262473A2 - Hair treatment means with cloudberry extract

Info

Publication number: EP2262473A2
Application number: EP09733039A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Marcus Krueger; Dieter Goddinger
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2008-04-16
Filing date: 2009-04-08
Publication date: 2010-12-22
Also published as: WO2009127564A3; WO2009127564A2; US20110033407A1; DE102008019340A1

Abstract

The extract of cloudberries (Rubus Chamaemorus) is excellently suited for use in agents for treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair, for improving the moisture in the fiber, repairing and restructuring the fibers and for protecting the fibers from oxidants and UV radiation, and for improving the color retention and color intensity when the fibers are colored hairs.

Description

"Hair treatment product with cloudberry fruit extract"

The present invention relates to cosmetic agents for the treatment of keratinic fibers containing an extract of the fruits of Rubus Chamaemorus (Cloudberry) and the use of a Cloudberry fruit extract in cosmetic agents for the treatment of keratinic fibers to improve the moisture keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, for Protecting the fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation, protecting the fibers from destructuring and improving the color retention and color intensity of dyed fibers.

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to herein as a "2-in-1 product." By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products.

The formulation of 2-in-1 products in combination with an oxidative treatment of keratin-containing fibers is difficult for a person skilled in the art. The necessary for the oxidative fiber treatment reactive oxidative ingredients, such as hydrogen peroxide, are not compatible with all cosmetic ingredients and active ingredients. The permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Unfortunately, the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage. There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agents. The aim is also that the hair is protected from aggressive oxidizing agents or UV radiation by suitable ingredients. Another disadvantage of strong and frequent sun exposure (especially with dyed hair) is that the hair color changes or fades faster. Also, this effect should optimally be avoided or reduced, and without the need for the use of other care products.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to improve the above-described side effects. Preferably, the above-described side effects with the 2-in-1 product should already be reduced during the oxidative hair treatment but also after the oxidative hair treatment, without deteriorating the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fastness, whitening power or wave action. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in an application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.

It has now surprisingly been found that these objects are excellently solved by the use of a cosmetic agent containing an extract from the fruits of the Rubus Chamaemorus (hereinafter Cloudberry fruit extract). Under the name "Cloudberry" is referred to in this document, the fruit of cloudberry (Rubus Chamaemorus).

The use of cloudberry seed oil made by supercritical fluid extraction in cosmetic skin and hair treatment agents is well known. A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier an extract from the fruits of Rubus chamaemorus (cloudberry fruit extract or cloudberry fruit extract).

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agents are used to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention. The cloudberry fruit extract is preferably immediately before, during or after the oxidative

Hair treatment in the form of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier

Cloudberry fruit extract, used.

The application during or after the oxidative hair treatment is preferred according to the invention.

As immediately before the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention a

Application, which is followed directly by the oxidative hair treatment, the one

Cloudberry fruit extract containing agent has previously been rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet.

As used in the context of the invention after the oxidative hair treatment, an application which adjoins either directly to the oxidative hair treatment, the one

Cloudberry fruit extract containing agents after rinsing the hair dye or the

Bleach or the waving agent is applied to the preferably still wet, towel-dried hair, or only after several hours or days on the dry or wet

Hair is applied. In both cases, the agent according to the invention can in this case after a

Exposure time from a few seconds to 45 minutes are rinsed out or completely on the hair.

The effect of the agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative

Hair treatment and stops surprisingly even after intensive washing of the composition according to the invention.

In a simultaneous application of the oxidative cosmetic agent and a cosmetic agent containing a cloudberry fruit extract, both agents, optionally just before use, can be mixed together, or applied to the hair successively without intermediate rinsing step. In a preferred

Accordingly, the oxidative cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains a cloudberry fruit extract.

The cloudberry fruit extract is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier. According to the invention, cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60%

Wt .-% water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, in particular methanol,

Ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, isohexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. A preferably used according to the invention Cloudberry fruit extract is sold under the trade name Fruitliquid Cloudberry ^® Fa. Crodarom (INCI name (EU): Glycerin, Aqua, Rubus Chamaemorus Fruit Extract in Glycerol / Water).

The cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the cloudberry fruit extract - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 4.0 wt .-% and in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0% by weight. In a first preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention also contain at least one further active ingredient.

This further active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of non-surface-active betaines, ubiquinones, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, nicotinic acid, their derivatives and physiologically acceptable salts.

In particular, this further active ingredient is selected from the group formed from L-carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol, nicotinamide and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts. For the purposes of this specification, the term "derivative" is understood to mean an easily accessible, structurally closely related derivative of the starting substance, which can usually be represented by only one reaction step. usually on a functional group. Exemplary derivatives are the reaction products by derivatization of hydroxy, thiol, amino, carbonyl, carboxyl or carboxamide groups. Preferred methods of derivatization are oxidation, reduction, alkylation, acylation, esterification, saponification, (de) protonation (salification with physiologically acceptable acids or bases) and peptide formation.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention within this embodiment are those which contain the cloudberry fruit extract and the further active ingredient in a weight ratio in the range of 1: 30 to 50: 1, preferably in the range of 1:10 to 30: 1 and in particular in the range of 1 : 5 to 10: 1 included.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are betaines. In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (AI).

Examples of particularly suitable betaines of the formula (AI) according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, 3-0-lauroyl-L-carnitine hydrochloride, SO-octanoyl-L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O Palnnitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound N, N referred to in the literature as betaine , N-trimethylglycine.

Carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives are preferably used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I). In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.

In a further preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent contains taurine and / or at least one of its derivatives in addition to the cloudberry fruit extract. In the present invention, by taurine is meant 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Preferred taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, taurine is used as the active ingredient in the composition according to the invention.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention contain biochinones which act as coenzymes. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

10. In a most preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains a combination of coenzyme Q-10 (ubiquinone-50) and / or at least one of its derivatives and cranberry extract. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains a combination of ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and / or at least one of its derivatives and cloudberry fruit extract ,

Ectoin

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains a combination of cloudberry fruit extract and pantolactone ((R) -dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3AY) -furanone).

Very particularly preferred agents for the purposes of the present invention contain pantolactone.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains a combination of pantothenic acid and / or at least one of its components

Derivatives and cloudberry fruit extract. Pantothenic acid is preferred as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present

Invention used.

Other suitable in the context of the present invention derivatives of pantothenic acid

Panthenol and pantheine.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains a combination of nicotinic acid and / or nicotinamide and / or at least one of the derivatives of these compounds with cloudberry fruit extract.

Nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide are also summarized under the name "niacin." Both compounds have the same vitamin activity and can be interconverted by the organism.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group which is formed by carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol, nicotinamide and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol, nicotinamide and / or derivatives thereof in the form of natural product extracts obtained from natural products containing the corresponding active compounds or their derivatives. It is furthermore preferred according to the invention that the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one conditioner for the skin and / or the hair. preferred

Conditioners are selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicones and / or vegetable oils.

The cationic surfactants (Tkat) are preferred in the inventive compositions in amounts of

0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Cationic polymers may also be used in the compositions according to the invention.

Preferred cationic polymers are commercially available and, for example, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia ^® guar and ^Jaguar® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Products sold under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)), Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) and Merquat ^® Plus 3300 (terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide) commercially available examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® HS 100, Gaffix ^® VC 713, Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially, of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

The cationic polymers are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are preferred and amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Another group of substances which can additionally be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention are the silicone oils (also referred to below as silicones). The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the conditioning agent is a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa s, most preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa s.

The conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.

Finally, in addition to the cloudberry fruit extract and the further active ingredient as conditioning agents, a vegetable oil may preferably be used in the compositions according to the invention.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil , Marula oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Pfirichkernöl, Rapeseed Oil, Rice Oil, Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil, Buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil in question.

The vegetable oils are in the inventive compositions - based on the total weight of the agent - in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt .-% used.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use the agent according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair. In particular, the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the compositions of the invention is excellent even in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one oxidizing agent.

The oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to link disulphide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor. The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,

Sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0),

Urea peroxide and melamine peroxide in question.

The oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent.

For the purpose of color change, the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. According to task u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences.

The color-changing component is again preferably selected

(A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or

(b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or (e) at least one bleach booster.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, therefore, the cosmetic composition additionally contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type

Developer components.

The developer components are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group,

Diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6

Tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.

As coupler components usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic

Used connections.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the developer components in an amount of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably contain the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

The agent according to the invention can be used as a color-changing component in the form of

Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte at least one combination of at least one compound of

component

1 compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with at least one compound of the component

2 compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds containing primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds.

The actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, the cosmetic agent before the application of a

Composition containing at least one color-modifying agent in a cosmetic carrier

Component, and another composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent mixed.

In an application of oxidizing agents, the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-modifying ones Components, manufactured. The resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10. For a color change by means of brightening or bleaching of the hair, in addition to the oxidizing agents, at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds. Among the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself. Moreover, the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxodisulfate salts, persulfate salts (especially ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxyphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the peroxodisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxodisulfate. The bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight. The cosmetic agents of the invention, when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention may furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for the particular preparation.

The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent. In the case of a shampoo, in particular at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen. These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. len. The ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2. If the composition is a hair-conditioning composition, cationic surfactants are preferably used as surface-active substances or nonionic surfactants selected. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have been found. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. The surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total amount used in accordance with the invention Medium, used. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH), Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

Amphoteric polymers as well as the cationic polymers according to the invention are very particularly preferred polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO ₃ ^" groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

Particularly preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik® 11-80. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF). Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, in each case vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic polymers. Cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose, as marketed, for example, under the trademarks Culminal® and Benecel® (AQUALON) and Natrosol® types (Hercules). Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers, for example Structure® XL (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidone, as sold for example under the name Luviskol® (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred. With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient. Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The amount is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous. As fatty alcohols (D2) can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and most preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale. Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20

Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-% based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n- undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether, and also di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, Di-3- ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds 1, 3-di (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE) available as commercial products may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit®), isononanoic acid C _16-i ₈ alkyl ester (Cetiol SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24) stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol 868), cetyl oleate, Glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A), di-n -butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotricanecanoate, propylene glycol di ( 2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), triflic acid esters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), in which R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum is (m + n + q) 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

In a most preferred embodiment, the compositions further contain squalene.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1 to 15 wt .-%. The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as .beta.-alanine, anthranilic acid or Hippuric acid can be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German Gelatin Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, potato, moringa, silk and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl extracts.

Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG® or Crodarom® Pearl.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. -% up to 5 wt .-% included.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

In addition to the pantolactone and pantothenic acid and / or derivatives thereof which are particularly preferred for use according to the invention, active ingredients of the vitamin B group or of the vitamin B complex u. a.

Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)

Vitamin B (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and

Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide). Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is preferably used in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight.

%, based on the total mean.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or the like known as an amine fluoride, N, N, NMris- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N ^{'-octadecyl-1,} 3-diaminopropan- dihydrofluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. B. the Polyhexamethylenbiguanid (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ^' hexa-methylene-bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide ("chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, eg. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the 6,6 ^' - methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene") and the 2,4,4 ^' trichloro-2 ^' hydroxy-diphenyl ether ("Triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial substances are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such. As the bisabolol, farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol. Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Valerian, Meadowfoam, Quenelle, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hominy, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Meristem, Ginseng, Coffee, Cocoa, Cabbage, Goji, Moringa , Wine (Vitis vinifera), Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma) Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala) echinacea and ginger root are preferred. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, in particular of at least two or more different plant extracts. As a further preferred ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I) or (II)

in which the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ and R _{3 of} the formula (I) are selected independently of one another from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ₄ , R 5 and R 6 of the formula (II) are selected independently of one another from H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH _{3 are} substituted, whereby following connections according to formula (I):

Purine (R1 = R2 = R3 = H)

- adenine (R1 = _NH2, R2 = R3 = H)

- guanine (R1 = OH, R2 = _NH2, R3 = H)

- uric acid (R1 = R2 = R3 = OH)

Hypoxanthine (R1 = OH, R2 = R3 = H)

6-Purethiol (R1 = SH, R2 = R3 = H)

- 6-thioguanine (R1 = SH, R 2 = NH _2, R3 = H)

Xanthine (R1 = R2 = OH, R3 = H) and the following compounds according to formula (II):

- caffeine (R4 = R5 = R6 = _CH3)

- theobromine (R4 = H, R5 = R6 = _CH3)

- Theophylline (R4 = R5 = _CH3, R6 = H) are preferred.

Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the agent) can be used.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol , 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol. A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Hydantoins show several desirable beneficial effects in cosmetic compositions. One of these effects is their ability to favorably influence the swelling of the skin and hair. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - each based on the total agent - most preferably.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances to achieve certain effects, such as, for example, an anti-dandruff effect or effects against acne. Examples of pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.

These substances are contained in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.

Perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-%, based on the Total composition, the total composition added.

In a preferred embodiment, therefore, the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ^° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. Such a compound is that commercially available e.g. Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate available under the trade names Bitrex® and Indigo-stin®. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

The bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight. According to the invention, it is very particularly preferred to use the so-called edible acids as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention. These active compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0, 1 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.

Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotriose.

Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred.

Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain. Examples of these polyols are: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butanediol , 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, octanediols, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol with 10 moles of EO, dodecadienols. Glycerol is very particularly preferred.

Regardless of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups used, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0 , 05 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% polyhydroxy compound (s). According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds.

The polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are in the compositions in

Concentrations from 0.01% by weight up to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 35%

Wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 wt .-% up to 20 wt .-%.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the inventive

Medium additionally at least one UV sunscreen filter. The agents according to the invention preferably contain UV-A and / or UV-B filters.

UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and A-

(Dimethylamino) benzoesäureamylester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, A-

Propyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy

4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and

Octyl.

Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Suitable water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium,

Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in Mixtures are used. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used: aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol,

phenoxyisopropanol,

Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde

Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben,

Isobutylparaben

1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1, 2

Pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2

hexadecanediol,

Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl

urea

Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones, such as

Methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and

Chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile,

Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,

Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride,

Benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,

Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as

Citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid,

dehydroacetic Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione,

piroctone olamine,

Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated

Hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butyl hydroquinone,

Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives,

Etidronic Acid and its salts, as well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

The amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt .-% and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt .-% based on the total amount of the composition.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Cholesterol,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants.

The pH of the compositions according to the invention is preferably between 2 and 12. The pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is adjusted using the carboxylic acids or mineral acids such as phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, etc., listed above.

Suitable alkalizing agents are inorganic compounds, preferably hydroxides or ammonia, as well as organic bases, preferably amines and including, in particular, alkanolamines.

Preferred agents according to the invention additionally comprise, in addition to a cloudberry fruit extract, one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xx) in a cosmetic carrier: (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silicone, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic surfactant (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one UV absorber, (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one silicone, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic surfactant, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one UV absorber,

(ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone, (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic surfactant, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one UV absorber, (xiii ) Pantolactone and at least one cationic surfactant, (xiv) pantolactone and at least one cationic polymer, (xv) pantolactone and at least one silicone, (xvi) pantolactone and at least one UV absorber, (xvii) ectoine and at least one cationic surfactant, (xviii ) Ectoine and at least one cationic polymer, (xix) ectoine and at least one silicone, (xx) ectoine and at least one UV absorber.

Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) a cloudberry fruit extract, additionally one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xx): (i) at least one color-modifying agent Component and at least one silicone, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic surfactant, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one UV absorber, (v) at least (iii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic surfactant, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer, (vii) viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one UV absorber, (ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one silicone, (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic surfactant,

(xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer,

(xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one UV absorber,

(xiii) pantolactone and at least one cationic surfactant,

(xiv) pantolactone and at least one cationic polymer,

(xv) pantolactone and at least one silicone,

(xvi) pantolactone and at least one UV absorber,

(xvii) ectoine and at least one cationic surfactant,

(xviii) ectoine and at least one cationic polymer,

(xix) ectoine and at least one silicone,

(xx) ectoine and at least one UV absorber.

Preferred agents of the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier in addition to the

Combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) a cloudberry fruit extract, additionally one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xii):

(i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one fatty substance,

(ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol,

(iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid,

(iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic oil body, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one fatty substance, (vii) at least a developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one Ci ₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one Ci ₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic oil body, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one fatty substance, (xii) at least one bleach solution erstärker and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, (xiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic

Wax, (xv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic one

Oil body.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) a cloudberry fruit extract, additionally one of the following active ingredient combinations (i) to (xii): (i) at least one color-modifying agent (Ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one alkanolamine, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethanol, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia and 2-aminoethanol, (v) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethanol and L-arginine, (vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

Ammonia, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one alkanolamine, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

2-aminoethanol, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

Ammonia and 2-aminoethanol, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

2-aminoethanol and L-arginine,

(xi) at least one bleach booster and ammonia, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one alkanolamine, (xiii) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethanol, (xiv) at least one bleach booster and ammonia and 2-aminoethanol, (xv) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethanol and L-arginine. A second object of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for increasing the moisture of keratinic fibers. A third object of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for the repair and restructuring of keratinic fibers.

A fourth subject of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for protecting keratinic fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation as well as other oxidative damage to keratinous fibers. A fifth object of the invention is the use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to the invention for improving the color content and color intensity of colored keratinic fibers. A sixth subject of the invention is a process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in which a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a cloudberry fruit extract in a cosmetic carrier, is applied and, if appropriate, rinsed off again after a contact time.

The exposure time of the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably a few seconds to 45 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed by the hair after an exposure time, immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic By means of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract, applied and optionally rinsed again after a contact time.

Again, it is preferred according to the invention to use the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferred to apply the cloudberry fruit extract together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair dyeing method, the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier. The oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract and at least one oxidation dye precursor. The second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Shortly before use, both components are mixed together.

In the embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair bleaching method, the cloudberry fruit extract is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleach booster in one step in a cosmetic carrier.

The oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract and optionally at least one bleaching enhancer. Of the Bleach booster may also be formulated separately from the cloudberry fruit extract, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained. The last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together. The multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit. The packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a cloudberry fruit extract, and optionally a third container containing at least one bleaching enhancer embedded in a cosmetic carrier. All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container. The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

B e i p e r p a n e s

A hair conditioner

¹ Stenol® 16/18 Ci ₆ - ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol;

Fa.Cognis)

Genamin® KDMP C ₂ o- _22- Alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Behentrimium

Chloride; Fa. Clariant) ¹ Rheocare Ultragel® 300 2- (Trimethylamnnnnio) ethyl methacrylate chloride homopolymer

(INCI: Polyquaternium-37, Cognis)

Fruitliquid Cloudberry (INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Rubus Chamaemorum Fruit Extract;

Crodarom)

B hair cure

Claims

Patent claims

1. A cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable carrier an extract of fruits of Rubus Chamaemorus (Cloudberry).

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains the cloudberry fruit extract - based on its total weight - in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 4, 0 wt .-% and in particular in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%.

3. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one further active ingredient selected from the group consisting of pantolactone, non-surface-active betaines, ubiquinones, ectoine, pantothenic acid, nicotinic acid, derivatives thereof and physiologically acceptable Salts, contains.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the further active ingredient is pantolactone, carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantothenic acid, taurine, panthenol and / or nicotinamide.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weight ratio of the cloudberry fruit extract to the further active ingredient in the range of 1: 30 to 50: 1, preferably in the range of 1:10 to 30: 1 and in particular in Range from 1: 5 to 10: 1.

Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one cyclic or linear polyol containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the chain and at least two hydroxy groups.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polyol is glycerol.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it contains at least one skin or hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is formulated as a shampoo, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dye.

Use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for increasing the moisture of keratinic fibers.

11. Use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the repair and restructuring of keratinous fibers.

12. Use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the protection of keratinous fibers from oxidizing agents and UV radiation and other oxidative damage keratinischer fibers.

Use of a cloudberry fruit extract in compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for improving the color content and color intensity of colored keratinic fibers.

14. A method for the treatment of keratinous fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 is applied to the keratinic fibers, and rinsed again after an exposure time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes.