WO2009109426A1

WO2009109426A1 - Hair treatment agent with goji extract

Info

Publication number: WO2009109426A1
Application number: PCT/EP2009/050922
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marcus Krueger; Dieter Goddinger
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2008-02-29
Filing date: 2009-01-28
Publication date: 2009-09-11
Also published as: DE102008012059A1

Abstract

The invention relates to an extract from the goji berry (Lycium Barbarum) that is especially suitable for use in the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human hair, for improving moisture retention in the fibres, for repairing and reconstructing the fibres, for protecting the fibres from oxidants and UV-radiation, and for improving colour retention and colour intensity, if the fibres are dyed hair fibres.

Description

"Hair Treatment with Goji Extract"

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a goji extract to improve the finishing, to improve the gloss and to protect the destructuring keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, by UV radiation and to maintain the hair growth.

There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agent.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to reduce the previously described side effects of oxidative hair treatments in the context of a 2-in-i product already preferably during the oxidative hair treatment but also after the oxidative hair treatment, without the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with respect to color intensity Color fastness, whitening performance or corrugation, to deteriorate. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in an application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected. It has now surprisingly been found that the object is achieved to a great extent by the use of a cosmetic agent containing an extract from the fruits of goji (hereinafter goji extract).

Under the name "Goji" in the context of this document, the fruit of the nightshade plant Common wolfberry, also called Devil's Twister or Chinese wolfberry (Lycium barbarum).

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the fruits of Lycium barbarum (goji extract). In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agents are used to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human hair. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics. The finish can be significantly improved by using the goji extract. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair.

By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber. As a measure of combing serves the spent combing or the applied force during the combing process of a fiber collective. The measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

By maintaining the natural growth of keratinous fibers, it is understood that the effects on natural hair growth are compensated by hair cosmetic treatments as outlined above, in particular by oxidative hair treatments, and no or at least slight effects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness are present. The growth in thickness, the growth in length or the hair fullness can be determined both subjectively and objectively or in different test models. In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.

The goji extract is preferably used immediately before, during or after the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing a goji extract in a cosmetic carrier.

As immediately prior to the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention, an application directly followed by the oxidative hair treatment, the goji extract containing agent has previously been rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet ,

For the purposes of the invention, the term "oxidative hair treatment" is understood to mean an application which either directly follows the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the agent containing a goji extract, after rinsing the hair dye or the bleaching agent or the waving agent, preferably still wet, towel-dried Hair is applied, or applied to dry or wet hair only after several hours or days. In both cases, the agent according to the invention can be rinsed out again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes or remain completely on the hair.

The effect of the agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the composition according to the invention.

The goji extract is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier. An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents. A preferred suitable goji extract sold under the trade name Fruit Goji Liquid B ^® from Crodarom distributed (INCI name (EU). Aqua, Glycerin, Lycium barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract 1, 0-5.0 wt .-% Active substance in Glycerin / Water).

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the extracted substances from the fruits of Goji in an amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention also contain at least one further active ingredient.

In particular, this further active ingredient is selected from the group formed from L-carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

Another particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are betaines. In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (A-I).

Examples of betains of the formula (AI) which are particularly suitable according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3 O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithitate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (N ', N', N'-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine) , Choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate, and the compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine, referred to in the literature as betaine. Carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives are preferably used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (AI) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (AI). In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition contains taurine and / or at least one of its derivatives in addition to the goji extract. In the present invention, by taurine is meant 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Preferred taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, taurine is used as the active ingredient in the composition according to the invention.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention contain biochinones which act as coenzymes. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

10. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains a combination of coenzyme Q-10 (ubiquinone-50) and / or at least one of its derivatives and goji extract.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains a combination of ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and / or at least one of its derivatives and goji extract ,

Ectoin

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition contains a combination of goji extract and pantolactone ((R) -dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone). Very particularly preferred agents in the sense of the present invention contain pantolactone. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains a combination of pantothenic acid and / or at least one of its derivatives and goji extract. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.

Other suitable in the context of the present invention derivatives of patothenic acid are panthenol and pantetheine.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, of the active ingredients selected from the group consisting of carnitine tartrate, Coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine and their derivatives.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine and / or derivatives thereof in the form of natural product extracts obtained from natural products containing the corresponding active ingredients or their derivatives.

It may furthermore be particularly preferred if the composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one conditioning agent. Preferred conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and silicones. Very particularly cationic polymers are used as further ingredients in the compositions according to the invention. Preferred cationic polymers are commercially available and, for example, quaternized CeIIu lose-derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia ^® guar and ^Jaguar® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Products sold under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)), Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) and Merquat ^® Plus 3300 (terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide) commercially available examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are among the Drawings Gafquat ^® HS 100, Gaffix ^® VC 713, Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially available, one of which Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred

Vinylpyrrolidone Vinylimidazoliunnnnethochlorid-Copolynnere, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

The cationic polymers are preferred in the compositions of the invention

Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1 to

5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

A last group of substances which can additionally be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention are silicone oils.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention that is

Conditioning a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of 20,000 to 120,000 mPa s, most preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa s.

Particularly preferably, the conditioning silicone is selected from dimethicones,

Amodimethicones or dimethiconols.

It may be preferred according to the invention, the agent according to the invention in the context of

Color change of the hair, to use. In particular, the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the inventive compositions even in the presence of a

Oxidant is excellent.

For the purpose of color change, the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. According to task u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences.

The color-changing component is again preferably selected

(A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or

(b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and or

(e) at least one bleach booster.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent therefore additionally contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer component type.

The actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.

When using oxidizing agents, the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components. The resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10. For a color change by means of brightening or bleaching of the hair, in addition to the oxidizing agents, at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide. The bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight. The cosmetic agents of the invention, when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.

The cosmetic compositions used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent. In the case of a shampoo, in particular at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen. These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of selected mild surfactants. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. The ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2. If the composition is a hair-conditioning composition, cationic surfactants are preferably used as surface-active substances or nonionic surfactants selected. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -acylsarcosine.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have been found. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. The surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total amount used in accordance with the invention Medium, used. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent. Amphoteric polymers as well as the cationic polymers according to the invention are very particularly preferred polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO ₃ ^" groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

Particularly preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik® 11-80. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred. Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).

The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives and mixtures of different amino acids Understood. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German Gelatin Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, moringa, soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Puricare® LS 9658 (Laboratories Serobiologiques), Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda ), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein® (Croda). Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl extracts.

The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and most preferably in amounts of 0, 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. B. cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or fluoride, known as amine N, N, N ^'tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ^-N' -octadecyl-1, 3-diaminopropan- dihydrofluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. B. the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ^' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide ("chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the 6,6 ^' - methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene") and the 2,4,4 ^' trichloro-2 ^' hydroxy-diphenyl ether ("Triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial substances are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such. As the bisabolol, farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol. As a further preferred ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I) or (II)

in which the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ and R _{3 of} the formula (I) are selected independently of one another from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ₄ , R 5 and R 6 of the formula (II) are selected independently of one another from H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH _{3 are} substituted, whereby following connections according to formula (I):

Purine (R1 = R2 = R3 = H)

- adenine (R1 = _NH2, R2 = R3 = H)

- guanine (R1 = OH, R2 = _NH2, R3 = H)

- uric acid (R1 = R2 = R3 = OH)

Hypoxanthine (R1 = OH, R2 = R3 = H)

6-Purethiol (R1 = SH, R2 = R3 = H) - 6-thioguanine (R1 = SH, R 2 = NH _2, R3 = H)

Xanthine (R1 = R2 = OH, R3 = H) and the following compounds according to formula (II):

- caffeine (R4 = R5 = R6 = _CH3)

- theobromine (R4 = H, R5 = R6 = _CH3)

- Theophylline (R4 = R5 = _CH3, R6 = H) are preferred.

Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05

% By weight (in each case based on the agent) can be used.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if in the inventive

Compositions penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are included. These

Excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and

Urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass,

Imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and

Glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols, for example 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1, 2 Hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol,

1, 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of

0.02 to 2.5% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.25% by weight - in each case based on the total agent - most preferred.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances. Examples of pharmacologically active substances are

Corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilatory drugs such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.

These substances are in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-% each based on the total

Composition included.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain a bittering agent to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ^° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. Such a Bond is the commercially available, for example, under the trademarks Bitrex® and Indige-stin® available

Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

The bittering agent is present in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1

Wt .-%, based on the shaped body, included. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants.

The pH of the agents according to the invention is preferably between 2 and 12. Die

Adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is carried out using carboxylic acids or mineral acids such as phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, etc ..

As alkalizing agents are inorganic compounds, preferably hydroxides or

Ammonia and organic bases, preferably amines and including in particular

Alkanolamines, usable.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to a goji

Extract additionally one of the following active substance combinations (xiii) to (xx): (xiii) pantolactone and at least one cationic surfactant,

(xiv) pantolactone and at least one cationic polymer,

(xv) pantolactone and at least one silicone,

(xvi) pantolactone and at least one UV absorber,

(xvii) ectoine and at least one cationic surfactant,

(xviii) ectoine and at least one cationic polymer,

(xix) ectoine and at least one silicone,

(xx) ectoine and at least one UV absorber.

A second subject of the invention is therefore a method in which a cosmetic

Composition containing a goji extract in a cosmetic carrier, applied and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time. The exposure time of the goji extract is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably a few seconds to 45 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed by the hair after an exposure time, immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic By means of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a Goji extract, applied and optionally rinsed off again after an exposure time. Again, it is preferred according to the invention to use the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferred to apply the goji extract together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair dyeing method, the goji extract is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier. The oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a goji extract and at least one oxidation dye precursor. The second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Shortly before use, both components are mixed together. In the embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair bleaching method, the goji extract as constituent of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier is additionally preferably used in at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleaching booster in one step.

The oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a goji extract and optionally at least one bleach booster. The bleach booster may also be formulated separately from the goji extract, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or an anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained. The last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.

The multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit. The packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention, or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier; a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing a goji extract in a cosmetic carrier, and optionally a third container containing at least one bleach booster embedded in a cosmetic carrier. All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container.

For the second subject of the invention applies mutatis mutandis what has been said for the first subject of the invention.

A third aspect of the present invention is therefore the use, in particular of a cosmetic agent containing a goji extract for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent containing a goji extract is used for the repair and / or restructuring of damaged hair. The agent according to the invention is particularly preferably used for the repair and / or restructuring of hair damage caused by oxidation or UV light. In addition to the repair effect, the agent according to the invention can be used in a further preferred embodiment for protecting keratin-containing fibers from moisture loss and / or from external influences, such as oxidative treatment or UV radiation. A further preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises the use of the agents according to the invention for improving the shine of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, for improving the combability of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, for improving the feel of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, and for improving the Shaping keratin fibers, especially human hair.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is used on dyed or tinted keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, to protect the hair color from washing out and / or fading and to improve the color intensity.

For the third subject of the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the first and second subject of the invention.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it. Recipe example

A hair conditioner

¹ Stenol® 16/18 C ₁₆ . ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol;

Fa.Cognis)

² Genamin® KDMP C ₂ O- _22- alkyl-trimethylammonium chloride (INCI: Behentrimium

Chloride; Fa. Clariant)

³ Rheocare Ultragel® 300 2- (Trimethylamnnnnio) ethyl methacrylate chloride homopolymer

(INCI: Polyquaternium-37, Cognis)

⁴ Fruitliquid Goji EC (INCI: Aqua, Glycerin, Lycium Barbarum Extract; Fa. Crodarom)

B hair cure

Claims

Patent claims

1. Cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of fruits of Lycium barbarum (goji extract).

2. Cosmetic composition according to one of claim 1, characterized in that at least one further active ingredient selected from the group consisting of pantolactone, carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantothenic acid, taurine and derivatives thereof, is included.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that as further active ingredient pantolactone is included.

4. Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the means the Goji extract in a content of 0.0001 to 3.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1, 0 wt. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that in addition at least one conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants and / or silicones, is included.

6. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 5, characterized in that the conditioning silicone has a viscosity of 40,000 to 80,000 mPa s and is selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.

7. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they additionally contain at least one substantive dye.

8. Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the preparations contain at least one oxidation dye Vor- product of the type of developer components.

9. A method for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the keratinic fibers and rinsed again after a contact time of a few seconds to 45 minutes.

10. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the treatment of keratinous fibers.