WO2009109426A1 - Produit de traitement capillaire à l'extrait de goji - Google Patents

Produit de traitement capillaire à l'extrait de goji Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009109426A1
WO2009109426A1 PCT/EP2009/050922 EP2009050922W WO2009109426A1 WO 2009109426 A1 WO2009109426 A1 WO 2009109426A1 EP 2009050922 W EP2009050922 W EP 2009050922W WO 2009109426 A1 WO2009109426 A1 WO 2009109426A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
hair
agent
preferred
extract
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PCT/EP2009/050922
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marcus Krueger
Dieter Goddinger
Original Assignee
Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2009109426A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009109426A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a goji extract to improve the finishing, to improve the gloss and to protect the destructuring keratin inconveniencer fibers, especially human hair, by UV radiation and to maintain the hair growth.
  • a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agent.
  • a first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the fruits of Lycium barbarum (goji extract).
  • the cosmetic agents are used to treat keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
  • the finish can be significantly improved by using the goji extract. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair.
  • combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.
  • As a measure of combing serves the spent combing or the applied force during the combing process of a fiber collective.
  • the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
  • the grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.
  • Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
  • keratinous fibers By maintaining the natural growth of keratinous fibers, it is understood that the effects on natural hair growth are compensated by hair cosmetic treatments as outlined above, in particular by oxidative hair treatments, and no or at least slight effects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness are present.
  • the growth in thickness, the growth in length or the hair fullness can be determined both subjectively and objectively or in different test models.
  • an oxidative hair treatment the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • the goji extract is preferably used immediately before, during or after the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing a goji extract in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the goji extract containing agent has previously been rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet ,
  • oxidative hair treatment is understood to mean an application which either directly follows the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the agent containing a goji extract, after rinsing the hair dye or the bleaching agent or the waving agent, preferably still wet, towel-dried Hair is applied, or applied to dry or wet hair only after several hours or days. In both cases, the agent according to the invention can be rinsed out again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes or remain completely on the hair.
  • the effect of the agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the composition according to the invention.
  • aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.
  • aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • a preferred suitable goji extract sold under the trade name Fruit Goji Liquid B ® from Crodarom distributed (INCI name (EU). Aqua, Glycerin, Lycium barbarum (Goji) Fruit Extract 1, 0-5.0 wt .-% Active substance in Glycerin / Water).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the extracted substances from the fruits of Goji in an amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.
  • the agents according to the invention also contain at least one further active ingredient.
  • the agents according to the invention also contain at least one further active ingredient.
  • this further active ingredient is selected from the group formed from L-carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine and their derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • betaines are betaines.
  • the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (A-I).
  • betains of the formula (AI) which are particularly suitable according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3 O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithitate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (N ', N', N'-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine) , Choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate, and the compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine, referred to in the literature as betaine.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (AI) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (AI).
  • the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the cosmetic composition contains taurine and / or at least one of its derivatives in addition to the goji extract.
  • taurine is meant 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid.
  • Preferred taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine.
  • Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
  • taurine is used as the active ingredient in the composition according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention contain biochinones which act as coenzymes.
  • suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • the cosmetic agent contains a combination of coenzyme Q-10 (ubiquinone-50) and / or at least one of its derivatives and goji extract.
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid) and / or at least one of its derivatives and goji extract ,
  • the cosmetic composition contains a combination of goji extract and pantolactone ((R) -dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone).
  • very particularly preferred agents in the sense of the present invention contain pantolactone.
  • the cosmetic agent contains a combination of pantothenic acid and / or at least one of its derivatives and goji extract.
  • Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • patothenic acid examples include panthenol and pantetheine.
  • agents which, based on their weight, are 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight, of the active ingredients selected from the group consisting of carnitine tartrate, Coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine and their derivatives.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain carnitine tartrate, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, pantolactone, pantothenic acid, taurine and / or derivatives thereof in the form of natural product extracts obtained from natural products containing the corresponding active ingredients or their derivatives.
  • composition according to the invention additionally contains at least one conditioning agent.
  • conditioning agents are selected from the group consisting of cationic surfactants, cationic polymers and silicones.
  • Very particularly cationic polymers are used as further ingredients in the compositions according to the invention.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are commercially available and, for example, quaternized CeIIu lose-derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L 200 and Polymer JR ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular under the trade name Cosmedia ® guar and Jaguar® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers.
  • Such compounds are among the Drawings Gafquat ® HS 100, Gaffix ® VC 713, Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially available, one of which Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred
  • Vinylpyrrolidone Vinylimidazoliunnnnetrochlorid-Copolynnere such as those offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • the cationic polymers are preferred in the compositions of the invention.
  • a last group of substances which can additionally be used as conditioning agents in the compositions according to the invention are silicone oils.
  • Conditioning a conditioning silicone having a viscosity of 20,000 to 120,000 mPa s, most preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa s.
  • the conditioning silicone is selected from dimethicones,
  • the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the inventive compositions even in the presence of a
  • Oxidant is excellent.
  • the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. According to task u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences.
  • the color-changing component is again preferably selected
  • the cosmetic agent therefore additionally contains at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer component type.
  • the actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing.
  • the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components.
  • the resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.
  • at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.
  • the bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight.
  • the cosmetic agents of the invention when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.
  • the cosmetic compositions used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations.
  • the washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle.
  • the choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent.
  • at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen.
  • These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of selected mild surfactants. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • the ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5.
  • the ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2.
  • cationic surfactants are preferably used as surface-active substances or nonionic surfactants selected. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettkladensate.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have been found. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total amount used in accordance with the invention Medium, used.
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Amphoteric polymers as well as the cationic polymers according to the invention are very particularly preferred polymers.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO 3 " groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which is commercially available, for example, under the name Rheothik® 11-80.
  • the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
  • the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).
  • protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives and mixtures of different amino acids Understood.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates.
  • the latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (German Gelatin Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, moringa, soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Puricare® LS 9658 (Laboratories Serobiiquess), Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda ), Hydrotritium® (Croda) and Crotein® (Croda).
  • Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl extracts.
  • the protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and most preferably in amounts of 0, 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.
  • vitamins are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds.
  • Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such.
  • Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such.
  • the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide (“chlorhexidine”) in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate.
  • the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z for example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine”).
  • suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers.
  • Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the 6,6 ' - methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene”) and the 2,4,4 ' trichloro-2 ' hydroxy-diphenyl ether ("Triclosan").
  • agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of the purine. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I) or (II)
  • radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 of the formula (I) are selected independently of one another from -H, - OH, -NH 2 , -SH and the radicals R 4 , R 5 and R 6 of the formula (II) are selected independently of one another from H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 -CH 3 are substituted, whereby following connections according to formula (I):
  • Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05
  • compositions penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M) are included.
  • Excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and
  • Imidazole and its derivatives histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and
  • Glycol ethers propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols, for example 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1, 2 Hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol,
  • a particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of
  • 0.02 to 2.5% by weight very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.25% by weight - in each case based on the total agent - most preferred.
  • compositions of the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances.
  • pharmacologically active substances are examples of pharmacologically active substances.
  • Corticosteroids ⁇ -blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilatory drugs such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.
  • Composition included.
  • compositions of the invention contain a bittering agent to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • bittering agent to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances.
  • Such a Bond is the commercially available, for example, under the trademarks Bitrex® and Indige-stin® available
  • Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate.
  • This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bittering agent is present in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1
  • Wt .-% based on the shaped body, included. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • the pH of the agents according to the invention is preferably between 2 and 12. Die
  • Adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is carried out using carboxylic acids or mineral acids such as phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, etc ..
  • alkalizing agents are inorganic compounds, preferably hydroxides or
  • Ammonia and organic bases preferably amines and including in particular
  • Alkanolamines usable.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to a goji
  • Extract additionally one of the following active substance combinations (xiii) to (xx): (xiii) pantolactone and at least one cationic surfactant,
  • a second subject of the invention is therefore a method in which a cosmetic
  • composition containing a goji extract in a cosmetic carrier applied and optionally rinsed again after an exposure time.
  • the exposure time of the goji extract is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably a few seconds to 45 minutes, and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
  • a preferred embodiment of the present invention is a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed by the hair after an exposure time, immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic
  • a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a Goji extract, applied and optionally rinsed off again after an exposure time.
  • the goji extract is preferably used as a constituent of a cosmetic agent additionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor in one step in a cosmetic carrier.
  • the oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a goji extract and at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.
  • These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Shortly before use, both components are mixed together.
  • the goji extract as constituent of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier is additionally preferably used in at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleaching booster in one step.
  • the oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents.
  • the first component contains in a cosmetic carrier a goji extract and optionally at least one bleach booster.
  • the bleach booster may also be formulated separately from the goji extract, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or an anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained.
  • the last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.
  • the multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit.
  • the packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention, or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier; a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing a goji extract in a cosmetic carrier, and optionally a third container containing at least one bleach booster embedded in a cosmetic carrier. All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container.
  • a third aspect of the present invention is therefore the use, in particular of a cosmetic agent containing a goji extract for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • the cosmetic agent containing a goji extract is used for the repair and / or restructuring of damaged hair.
  • the agent according to the invention is particularly preferably used for the repair and / or restructuring of hair damage caused by oxidation or UV light.
  • the agent according to the invention can be used in a further preferred embodiment for protecting keratin-containing fibers from moisture loss and / or from external influences, such as oxidative treatment or UV radiation.
  • a further preferred embodiment of the present invention comprises the use of the agents according to the invention for improving the shine of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, for improving the combability of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, for improving the feel of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, and for improving the Shaping keratin fibers, especially human hair.
  • the agent according to the invention is used on dyed or tinted keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, to protect the hair color from washing out and / or fading and to improve the color intensity.
  • a hair conditioner A hair conditioner
  • Stenol® 16/18 C 16 . 18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol;

Abstract

Un extrait de fruits du goji (Euterpe oleracea) se prête remarquablement bien à un traitement de fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, visant à améliorer l'état d'hydratation des fibres, à réparer et à restructurer les fibres et à les protéger contre les oxydants et le rayonnement UV, ainsi qu'à améliorer la tenue et l'intensité de la couleur, si les fibres dont il est question sont des cheveux colorés.
PCT/EP2009/050922 2008-02-29 2009-01-28 Produit de traitement capillaire à l'extrait de goji WO2009109426A1 (fr)

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DE102008012059A DE102008012059A1 (de) 2008-02-29 2008-02-29 Haarbehandlungsmittel mit Goji-Extrakt
DE102008012059.6 2008-02-29

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WO2009109426A1 true WO2009109426A1 (fr) 2009-09-11

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