WO2016139125A1

WO2016139125A1 - Cosmetic agent with bioactive substance and a dipeptide

Info

Publication number: WO2016139125A1
Application number: PCT/EP2016/053978
Authority: WO
Inventors: Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2015-03-04
Filing date: 2016-02-25
Publication date: 2016-09-09
Also published as: DE102015203818A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic agent containing the following, each of which is based on the weight of the cosmetic agent: a) 0.0001 to 20 wt.% of a bioactive substance selected from the group consisting of i) L-carnitine and/or salts thereof and/or derivatives thereof; ii) 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone, iii) taurine and/or salts thereof; iv) vitamins, provitamins, or vitamin precursors, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol, and tocopherol, and/or derivatives thereof; v) ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10); vi) ectoine; vii) allantoin; viii) plant extracts, in particular from echinacea or moringa plants; ix) xanthine, in particular caffeine, theophylline, and theobromine; x) flavonoids, in particular flavonols; xi) bisabolol; vii) creatine, xiii) amino acids, in particular glycine and/or L-arginine, and xiv) mixtures thereof, and b) 0.0001 to 30 wt.% of methionylmethionine, wherein the agent has a viscosity of maximally 5,000 mPas (determined using a Haake rotational viscometer VT 550 with a measuring element MVII at 20 °C and 7.2 s^-1). The cosmetic agent with methionylmethionine and the specified bioactive substance exhibits a positive effect on skin, hair, and hair follicles.

Description

"Cosmetics with Bio-Active and a Dipeptide"

The invention relates to cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions with a bio-active substance and a dipeptide for the gentle and effective care of the hair and / or scalp.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by cleaning the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends following such care treatments.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.

Frequently repeated hair treatments and / or oxidative hair treatments can also adversely affect the scalp (especially sensitive scalp). Visible signs of this include irritated, dry, rough, chapped, red, flaky or even inflamed scalp. The alleviation, prevention and / or removal of sensitized scalp is therefore an important aspect in the preparation of cosmetic hair treatment compositions.

A further object was to provide hair-treatment compositions which are irritating and sensitizing, which soothe the scalp and / or exert a positive effect on the hair and / or the hair follicle.

It has now been found that a combination of certain bio-active substances with methionylmethionine has a particularly positive effect on body surfaces, in particular on the skin, the hair and the hair follicle.

A first object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives; ii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iii. Taurine and / or its salts;

iv. Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors in particular

Nicotinic acid amide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or derivatives thereof;

v. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vi. Ectoin;

vii. allantoin;

viii. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants; ix. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine; x. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xi. bisabolol;

xii. creatine,

xiii. Amino acids, in particular glycine and / or L-arginine, and

xiv. Mix of it, and

b) 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine,

the agent having a viscosity of at most 5,000 mPas (determined using a Haake VT 550 rotary viscometer, MVII measuring body, at 20 ° C. and 7.2 s ^-1 ).

The remedy is a cosmetic. Preferred cosmetic agents are selected from the group of shower gels, shower baths, dentifrices and cleansers, mouthwashes, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings , Hair styling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents serve the treatment of keratinic fibers and thus represent hair treatment agents. Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, Hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that, in particular, men often shy away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps, preference is given to means which the man uses anyway. Preferred cosmetic agents are therefore hair treatment compositions in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners, hair lotions or hair tonics.

The first compulsory ingredient, the cosmetic contains 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active substance. The bio-active substance is selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives;

ii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iii. Taurine and / or its salts / derivatives;

iv. Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or their derivatives;

v. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vi. Ectoin;

vii. allantoin;

viii. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants;

ix. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine;

x. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xi. bisabolol;

xii. creatine,

xiii. Amino acids, in particular glycine and / or L-arginine, and

xiv. Mix of it.

In addition to L-carnitine and L-carnitine derivatives and / or L-carnitine salts can be used in the cosmetic products. The derivatives and / or salts are especially selected from acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate.

In addition to taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid) and taurine derivatives can be used in the cosmetic products. Derivatives of these are in particular N-alkyl derivatives of taurine such as N-monomethyl-taurine, and N, N-dimethyl-taurine

Among suitable vitamins are preferably the following vitamins, provitamins and

To understand vitamin precursors and their derivatives:

Vitamin A: the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration.

Vitamin B: belong to the vitamin B group or to the vitamin B complex u. a.

Vitamin B1 (thiamine)

Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

Vitamin B3: Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often performed. Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.

Vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).

Vitamin F: the term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H: Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, in the meantime, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.

Preference is given to vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

Particular preference is given to vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups B and / or H, for example nicotinamide, biotin and / or panthenol.

Suitable plant extracts of Echinacea (Sonnenhutgewächse, synonym: Brauneria NECKER) are in particular from Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (NORTON). Echinacea simulata. E. atrorubens. E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (MCGREGOR). Echinacea laevigata. Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt) were obtained. Especially preferred are extracts of Echinacea purpurea (L.) MOENCH.

Suitable xanthines and / or xanthine derivatives are preferably compounds of the following formula

in which the radicals R, R ² and R ³ can be selected independently of one another from -H, C ¹ -C 4 -alkyl and / or -OH, the following compounds being preferred:

Xanthine (R = R ² = R ³ = H)

Caffeine (R = R ² = R ³ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R = H, R ² = R ³ = CH ₃ ) Theophylline (R = R ² = CH ₃ , R ³ = H).

Suitable amino acids may be selected from essential amino acids such as isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, thryptophan and / or valine, semi-essential amino acids such as arginine and / or histidine and / or nonessential amino acids such as alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, Cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine.

Particularly suitable amino acids are glycine and / or L-arginine.

Particularly preferred agents additionally contain panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinamide, biotin, glycine, caffeine, taurine, ectoine, ubiquinone, carnitine and / or a physiologically tolerated salt and / or a derivative of these compounds.

It may be preferred that the cosmetic agent contains a combination of several bioactive substances. A particularly advantageous combination comprises L-carnitine tartrate, a plant extract of echinacea and taurine. Another particularly advantageous combination comprises L-carnitine tartrate, caffeine and taurine.

The agents preferably contain the bioactive agent (s) in an amount of from 0.001 to 10.0% by weight and more preferably from 0.01 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the ready-to-use agent ,

The agents contain as the second essential ingredient - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 30 wt .-% methionylmethionine.

Methionylmethionine is the dipeptide of methionine and has the following structure:

From the dipeptide methionylmethionine exist the four different stereoisomers DD, LL, DL and LD. Of the four stereoisomers, only the L-methionyl-L-methionine is natural, the three other dipeptides L-methionyl-D-methionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and D-methionyl-D-methionine are all unnatural. The described positive effects in hair treatment compositions can be achieved with all four stereoisomeric dipeptides. The methionylmethionine can be used as DD / LL / LD / DL- Mixture, as DL / LD mixture or DD / LL mixture are used. In principle, the use of a stereoisomeric dipeptide alone or in combination with one or two further stereoisomers is conceivable. If only one stereoisomeric dipeptide is used, preference is given to choosing L-methionyl-L-methionine or D-methionyl-D-methionine.

The two pairs DD / LL-methionylmethionine and DL / LD-methionylmethionine are diastereomeric and have different physical data. Thus, for example, the diastereomeric pair DD / LL at room temperature has a solubility of 21.0 g / l in water, whereas the solubility of the diastereomeric pair DL / LD is 0.4 g / l. Accordingly, it may be preferable to use the methionylmethionine as a DD / LL mixture or as a DD / LL / LD / DL mixture with a high proportion of the DD / LL diastereomeric pair. These mixtures can be easily incorporated / dissolved in an aqueous phase or an aqueous-surfactant phase of a cosmetic product.

The cosmetic agents contain the methionylmethionine preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready cosmetic product.

The cosmetic products have a viscosity of 5,000 mPas. It is preferred that the cosmetic agents have a viscosity of at most 2,500 mPas, and more preferably of at most 1, 000 mPas. The viscosity is determined using a Haake viscometer VT 550. The determination is performed at 20 ° C, at a shear rate of 7.2 sec ^-1 with a measuring body MVII.

It has been found that the use of the abovementioned bioactive substances in combination with methionylmethionine can impart outstanding properties to the cosmetic products. Cosmetics in the form of hair treatment agents can revitalize the hair, activate the energy metabolism in hair follicles to the rain, activate hair follicles / hair roots, promote or enhance hair growth, treat hair loss, affect keratin synthesis, improve the tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, the moisture balance of keratinic Stabilizing fibers, in particular human hair, improving the combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, retarding the aging process of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, improving the restructurability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, the decrease in elasticity of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair Reduce damage caused by atmospheric agents and / or sensitive scalp and / or scalp damaged and / or irritated by chemical hair treatment t calm down. The cosmetic agent is preferably a leave-on composition which is not rinsed off after application to the hair and / or the scalp, but remains on the application surface until the next hair cleansing. The agent is particularly preferably a hair tonic or a hair tonic because it has been found that the bio-active substances from hair tonics and / or hair lotions can be deposited on the scalp particularly well, and then in particular can serve to soothe the scalp.

A hair tonic or hair tonic preferably has a viscosity of at most 500 mPas (determined with a Haake VT 550 rotary viscometer, MVII measuring body, at 20 ° C. and 7.2 s. Compositions having such a viscosity can be homogeneously mixed in the hair and on the scalp The dosage on hands and the subsequent application with the hands is particularly good at such viscosity values.

In particular, a cosmetic agent in the form of a hair lotions or hair tonics contains - based on its weight - at least 10 wt .-% of a Ci-C4-alcohol.

Suitable C 1 -C 4 -alcohols which may be present in the compositions are preferably selected from ethanol, ethyldiglycol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1 , 2-butanediol and / or 1, 3-butanediol.

Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions, based on their total weight - preferably 22.5 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 25 to 60 wt .-% and in particular 27.5 to 50 wt .-% of at least one alcohol from the group ethanol , Ethyldiglykol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1, 2-butanediol and / or 1, 3-butanediol.

Particular preference is given to cosmetic compositions which, based on their total weight, contain at least 20% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, in particular ethanol.

If a cosmetic agent is formulated as a hair tonic and / or hair tonic, it is preferred if the hair tonic and / or hair tonic is free from anionic, amphoteric / zwitterionic and / or cationic surfactants.

By "substantially free" is preferably a total surfactant content in the haaronic or hair tonic of at most 2 wt .-%, more preferably of at most 1 wt .-% and in particular of at most 0.1 wt .-% understood, wherein the amounts are based on refer to the total weight of the hair tonics / hair lotions.

The cosmetic agents may include other active ingredients and adjuvants. These will be below described.

It has been found that the scalp-soothing effect of the cosmetic compositions can be enhanced if, based on their total weight, they are preferably from 0.001 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 2% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 1 % By weight of at least one monocyclic monoterpene.

Suitable monocyclic monoterpenes are preferably compounds which have a cyclohexane skeleton, for example menthol, limonene, phellandrene, terpinol, terpinene, pulegol, piperitol, carveol, thymol and / or cymene.

Particularly suitable monocyclic monoterpenes are menthol, limonene and / or the physiologically tolerated salts and / or derivatives of these compounds.

Particularly suitable is menthol and / or a physiologically acceptable salt and / or derivative of menthol.

Preferred cosmetic agents which are not in the form of a hair tonic or hair tonics are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight % anionic and / or nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

Suitable anionic surfactants for the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.

As amphoteric surfactants, which are often referred to as zwitterionic surfactants, such surface-active compounds are called, which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(_) - or -S03 ^(_) group. Particularly suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example

Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred one Amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are also understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a Cs-C24-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SCbH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,

N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-

Alkylaminopropionsäuren and Alkylaminoessigsäuren each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group.

Very particular preference is given to cosmetic compositions which additionally contain fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C 12-22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 12-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 10 to 30 EO units, especially preferably Ci6-i8 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C16-18 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of 5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular from 10 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic product.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, which contain, by weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic surfactants. s) surfactant (s), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula

H ₃ C- (CH 2) n (OCH 2 CH ₂₎ k-OS03- M ⁺

in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably represent 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation selected from the group Na ^+, K ⁺ NH ₄ ⁺ ^_1/2 Mg ^2+, ^_1/2 Zn ^2+, preferably for Na ⁺ , stand.

As a further optional component, the cosmetic agents may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. "Permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic Groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-C4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the cosmetic agents may also contain amphoteric polymers. These have in addition to the cationically charged group (s) at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.

Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, cosmetic agents are preferred which - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

Other suitable ingredients include nonionic polymers, anionic polymers, fatty substances, waxes, ester oils, UV screening agents, structurants, thickeners, electrolytes, pH modifiers, swelling agents, dyes, antidandruff agents, chelating agents, opacifiers, pearlescers, pigments, stabilizers, propellants, antioxidants, Perfume oils, silicones and / or preservatives.

The cosmetic compositions have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Especially in hair and scalp treatment, benefits have been seen that go beyond the benefits of bio-active ingredients and methionylmethionine alone.

Another object of the present invention is accordingly the use of a cosmetic agent containing - each based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives;

ii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iii. Taurine and / or its salts;

iv. Vitamins, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or derivatives thereof; v. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vi. Ectoin;

vii. allantoin;

viii. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants;

ix. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine;

x. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xi. bisabolol;

xii. creatine,

xiii. Amino acids, in particular glycine and / or L-arginine, and

xiv. Mixtures thereof, and

b) from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine, for

- revitalization of hair and / or

- Stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles and / or

Activation of hair follicles / hair roots and / or

Promotion or enhancement of hair growth and / or

- Hair thickening and / or

- Treatment of hair loss and / or

- Influencing (in particular excitation) of keratin synthesis and / or

- Improvement of the tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair and / or

Stabilization of the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair and / or

Improvement of the combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair and / or

Delay the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair and / or

Improvement of the restructurability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair and / or

Reduction in elasticity of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, when damaged by atmospheric agents and / or sedative scalp and / or scalp damaged and / or irritated by chemical hair treatment.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the use mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means said.

Another object of the present invention is a method for

Vitalization of hair and / or Stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles and / or

Activation of hair follicles / hair roots and / or

Promotion or enhancement of hair growth and / or

Hair thickening and / or

Treatment of hair loss and / or

Influence (in particular excitation) of keratin synthesis and / or

Improvement of the tensile strength of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair and / or

Delaying the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair and / or

Reduction in elasticity of keratinic fibers, especially human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents and / or

Calming sensitive scalp and / or scalp damaged and / or irritated by chemical hair treatments,

in which a cosmetic agent, preferably hair treatment composition containing - in each case based on its weight - a) from 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active substance selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives;

ii. panthenol;

iii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iv. Taurine and / or its salts;

v. Vitamins, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or derivatives thereof;

vi. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vii. Ectoin;

viii. allantoin;

ix. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants;

x. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine;

xi. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xii. bisabolol;

xiii. creatine,

xiv. Amino acids, in particular glycine and / or L-arginine, and xv. Mixtures thereof, and

b) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of methionylmethionine,

on the keratin fibers and / or the skin, preferably the scalp, applied, left there for 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed or

is applied to the keratinic fibers and / or the skin, preferably the scalp, and remains there.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the method mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means said.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All amounts are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight of active substance. The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods.

Hair conditioner:

Wt .-%

Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0

Quaternium-87 0.75

Glycol Distearate 1, 0

Panthenol 0.5

Shea Butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) 1, 5

L-methionyl-L-methionine 1, 0

Lactic acid 0, 1

Behenoyl PG -trimonium chlorides 1, 5

Behentrimonium chlorides 0.5

Polyquaternium-37 0.4

Glycerol 0, 1

Dimethicone 1, 0

Water, preservation, accompanying substances and possibly perfume oils ad 100

Care Spray:

Wt .-%

Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 0.3

Glycerin 2.0

Polyquaternium-10 0.2

Panthenol 0.2 DL-methionyl-DL-methionine 0.8

Ethanol 15

Nicotinic acid amide 0.1

Dicaprylyl carbonates 0, 1

Cetrimonium Chloride 0.2

Water, preservation, accompanying substances and possibly perfume oils ad 100

shampoo

hair tonics

1 2 3 4 5 6

Ethanol denate. 46.65 37.35 21 37.375 46.65 35

1, 2-butylene glycol 0.12 - - 0.04

1, 2-propylene glycol - 4

PEG-40 Hydrogenated 0.3 0.35

Castor oil

Lecithin 4

Ceteareth-25 - 0.2 0.2

Polysorbate 20 0.08

Lamowell ^® 1 S 1 1, 5 0.5 0.75 0.9

D-panthenol 0.10 0.075 0.15 0.15 0.075 0.2

Pantolactone - 0.002 0.001

Nicotinic acid amide 0.1 -

Biotin - - - 0.0001

Glycine 0.2

Allantoin - 0.1 - 0, 1 0, 1 0, 1

Taurine - - 1 - - 0.01 L-carnitine - - 1, 365 1, 5

Tartaric acid - 0.636 1, 5

L-carnitine L-tartrate 2.0

Limonene 0.04 0.014

Menthol 0.01 0.03 0.03 0.025 0.03

Caffeine 0.01 0.01

Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) 0.07

Root extract

Panax Ginseng Root 0.0175

Extract

Extract of Echinacea

purpurea

Carbomer 0.24

DL-methionyl-DL-methine in 0.8-0.75 1, 5 0.5

L-methionyl-L-methionine - 1, 0 - 0.75

Glucose 1

Benzophenone-4 0,03

Tetrahydroxypropyl 0.25

ethylenediamine

NaOH 0.34

Piroctone Olamine 0.05 0.1

Preservatives, q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Perfume

Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 s, the following commercial products were used:

Commercial product INCI Supplier / Manufacturer

La Nice O Cetearyl Alcohol BASF SE

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Cutina GMS-V or Cutina AGS Glycol Distearate BASF SE

Polymer JR400 Polyquaternium-10 Dow

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Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic composition containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives;

ii. panthenol;

iii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iv. Taurine and / or its salts;

v. Vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or their derivatives;

vi. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vii. Ectoin;

viii. allantoin;

ix. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants;

x. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine;

xi. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xii. bisabolol;

xiii. Creatine, and

xiv. Mix of it, and

b) 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine,

wherein the agent has a viscosity of up to 5,000 mPas (measured with a Haake rotational viscometer VT 550, measuring body MVII, at 20 ° C and 7.2 s ^~).

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the bio-active substance selected from the group consisting of L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate, panthenol, taurine, plant extracts of echinacea, caffeine, nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid. Tocopherol and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the bio-active substance contains L-carnitine tartrate and taurine.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the bio-active substance further contains caffeine and / or a plant extract of Echinacea.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it further contains at least 10 wt .-% of a Ci-C4-alcohol.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it contains at least 20% by weight of a Ci-C4-alcohol.

Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the methionylmethionine is a mixture of L-methionyl-L-methionine, L-methionyl-D-methionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and D-methionyl-D -methionine is.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the methionyl methionine is L-methionyl-L-methionine and / or D-methionyl-D-methionine.

9. Procedure for

Vitalization of hair and / or

- Stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles and / or

Activation of hair follicles and / or

Promotion or enhancement of hair growth and / or

- Hair thickening and / or

- Treatment of hair loss and / or

- Influencing (in particular excitation) of keratin synthesis and / or

Delay the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair and / or

Reduction in elasticity of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, when damaged by atmospheric agents and / or sedative of sensitive scalp and / or damaged and / or irritated scalp by chemical hair treatments,

in which a cosmetic agent, preferably hair treatment composition containing - in each case based on its weight - c) from 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active substance selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives;

ii. panthenol;

iii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iv. Taurine and / or its salts; v. Vitamins, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or derivatives thereof;

vi. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vii. Ectoin;

viii. allantoin;

ix. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants;

x. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine;

xi. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xii. bisabolol;

xiii. creatine,

xiv. Amino acids, in particular glycine and / or L-arginine, and

xv. Mixtures thereof, and

d) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of methionylmethionine,

10. Use of a cosmetic agent containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of a bio-active selected from the group consisting of i. L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or its derivatives;

ii. the 2-furanone, in particular pantolactone;

iii. Taurine and / or its salts;

iv. Vitamins, in particular nicotinamide, biotin, pantothenic acid, panthenol and tocopherol and / or derivatives thereof;

v. Ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10);

vi. Ectoin;

vii. allantoin;

viii. Plant extracts, in particular of Echinacea or Moringa plants;

ix. Xanthines, especially caffeine, theophylline and theobromine;

x. Flavonoids, in particular flavonols;

xi. bisabolol;

xii. creatine,

xiii. Amino acids, in particular glycine and / or L-arginine, and

xiv. Mixtures thereof, and

b) from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine, for

- revitalization of hair and / or

- Stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles and / or

Activation of hair follicles and / or Promotion or enhancement of hair growth and / or

- Hair thickening and / or

- Treatment of hair loss and / or

- Influencing (in particular excitation) of keratin synthesis and / or

Delay the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair and / or