WO2016065438A1 - Procédé et composition contenant une matière de polysaccharide, une silicone et un agent émulsifiant pour mettre en forme des cheveux - Google Patents

Procédé et composition contenant une matière de polysaccharide, une silicone et un agent émulsifiant pour mettre en forme des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016065438A1
WO2016065438A1 PCT/BR2014/000399 BR2014000399W WO2016065438A1 WO 2016065438 A1 WO2016065438 A1 WO 2016065438A1 BR 2014000399 W BR2014000399 W BR 2014000399W WO 2016065438 A1 WO2016065438 A1 WO 2016065438A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
hair
composition
water
mixtures
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PCT/BR2014/000399
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English (en)
Inventor
Camila MACIEL BIATO
Erika ALEGRIO JARQUE PETALI
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/BR2014/000399 priority Critical patent/WO2016065438A1/fr
Publication of WO2016065438A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016065438A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present application relates to a process for shaping or altering the shape of hair, for example, by straightening the hair using a composition containing a polysaccharide material, a silicone, and an emulsifying agent.
  • Cosmetic and personal care products for use on keratinous substrates such as skin and hair are available commercially in various forms, for example, as creams, lotions, gels, pastes, and powders. Regardless of the form, these products have to achieve and provide certain benefits and attributes such as efficaciousness, cosmeticity, desirable texture, stable formulations, and ease and convenience of use and application.
  • manufacturers of such products continuously seek to re-formulate and create new products with enhanced efficacy, while still remaining stable, safe to use, as well as improving the manufacture, transport, and storage of these products.
  • manufacturers continue to test the use of new raw materials and ingredients or new product forms that would help deliver the desired attributes and properties with respect to viscosity, texture, stability and efficacy.
  • hair cosmetic products such as those products designed to change the appearance, shape or configuration of hair.
  • hair cosmetic products are hair relaxers or hair straighteners which can relax or straighten curly or kinky hair, including wavy hair. Straightening or relaxing the curls of very curly hair may increase the manageability and ease of styling of such hair.
  • compositions that can be applied onto hair in order to change its shape and make it more manageable is an alkaline hair relaxing/straightening composition that hydrolyzes the keratin of the hair using various alkaline agents, such as inorganic hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines.
  • alkaline agents such as inorganic hydroxides, for instance sodium hydroxide, or organic hydroxides, such as guanidine hydroxide, or organic amines.
  • Hair relaxing/straightening products that employ sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide are also called lye-based products and products that use other alkaline agents such as lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, organic hydroxides and other non-hydroxide compounds, for example, organic amines, generally fall under the category of no-lye products.
  • the process of treating hair with the above-described relaxing/straightening products may also include heating and/or physically changing the shape of the hair by
  • Attributes of products for treating hair that can affect their performance and/or desirability to consumers include texture, form or appearance (liquid, cream, gel, lotion or powder), ease of application, viscosity or rheology, ease of use, storage, effect on the quality and feel of the hair, and safety.
  • hair relaxing and straightening products should have a viscosity such that they do not have a thin consistency. This means that they should not run or drip readily when applied onto the hair fibers so as to avoid contacting the skin with the product and to ensure that the active or straightening agents in the product are deposited onto the hair fibers and remain on the fibers during the straightening/relaxation period.
  • the present invention provides a process for shaping or altering the shape of hair, such as by straightening the hair, in an easy and efficacious manner, using a composition that contains a combination of a chitosan, preferably neutralized, and a beta-glucan, a silicone material, an emulsifying agent, a thickening agent and a cosmetically acceptable solvent wherein the composition is non-alkaline such that the pH of the composition ranges from about 2 to less than about 7,
  • the process includes the steps of brushing the hair, heating the hair at a temperature of at least about40°C, applying said composition onto the hair, optionally, heating the hair which may be accompanied by combing, and optionally, washing/contacting the hair with water or with an intermediate agent, followed by water.
  • the hair may also optionally be washed/contacted with an intermediate agent, and/or with water before the step of brushing the hair.
  • composition of the present invention is stable and has a viscosity that corresponds to a non-drip, and homogeneous consistency that facilitates the ease of application of the composition onto hair fibers, thereby resulting in an effective process of shaping or altering the shape of hair.
  • the present invention relates to a process for shaping hair or altering the shape of hair, the process comprising the steps of:
  • At least one thickening agent selected from cellulose-based thickening agents, acrylic acid- and/or acrylate-based thickening agents, and mixtures thereof;
  • a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, an organic solvent, and mixtures thereof;
  • pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7;
  • the process of the present invention may include a step of rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent such as a shampoo or a conditioner, followed by rinsing with water.
  • the heating step (2) in the above-described process may also be accompanied by a smoothing action on the hair, preferably performed with a mechanical or physical device, for example, the plates of a flat iron or a hair brush.
  • the heating step (2) in any one of the above- described processes is accomplished at a temperature higher than 100°C.
  • the composition in the above-described process is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient to shape or alter the shape of the composition.
  • the composition in the above-described process is a hair straightening composition.
  • said hair straightening composition is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.
  • the intermediate agent has a neutral pH and is selected from a shampoo and a conditioner.
  • the composition in the above- described process is in the form of an emulsion.
  • compositions in the above-described process are stable over time, that is, they do not exhibit phase separation and they can be stored for several months without modification and with very little change or fluctuation in the viscosity and/or rheology and pH of the composition.
  • the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • Keratinous substrates include, but are not limited to skin, lips, and keratin or keratinous fibers such as hair and eyelashes.
  • Volatile as used herein, means having a flash point of less than about
  • Non-volatile as used herein, means having a flash point of greater than about 100°C.
  • Active material as used herein with respect to the percent amount of an ingredient or raw material, refers to 100% activity of the ingredient or raw material.
  • compositions and processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
  • the present invention relates to a process for straightening hair, the process comprising the steps of:
  • At least one thickening agent selected from cellulose-based thickening agents, acrylic acid- and/or acrylate-based thickening agents, and mixtures thereof;
  • a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, an organic solvent, and mixtures thereof;
  • pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7;
  • the heating step (2) above is preferably accomplished by use of device such as a flat iron device, a blow dryer, or a hair dryer.
  • a hair dryer or blow dryer is used, the hair may be brushed with a hair brush.
  • the present invention relates to a process for straightening hair, the process comprising the steps of:
  • At least one thickening agent selected from cellulose-based thickening agents, acrylic acid- and/or acrylate-based thickening agents, and mixtures thereof;
  • a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, an organic solvent, and mixtures thereof;
  • pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7;
  • step (1 ) is preceded by a step of rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent, followed by rinsing with water;
  • step (2) is accompanied by a smoothing action on the hair using a mechanical or physical device
  • the intermediate agent has a neutral pH and is selected from a shampoo or a conditioner.
  • the heating step (2) above is preferably accomplished by use of device such as a flat iron device, a blow dryer, or a hair dryer.
  • a hair dryer or blow dryer is used, the hair may be brushed with a hair brush.
  • the present invention relates to a process for straightening hair, the process comprising the steps of;
  • At least one thickening agent selected from cellulose-based thickening agents, acrylic acid- and/or acrylate-based thickening agents, and mixtures thereof;
  • a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, an organic solvent, and mixtures thereof;
  • pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7;
  • step (1) is preceded by a step of rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent, followed by rinsing with water;
  • step (2) is accompanied by a smoothing action on the hair using a mechanical or physical device
  • the intermediate agent has a neutral pH and is selected from a shampoo or a conditioner.
  • the smoothing action on the hair is preferably performed with a mechanical or physical device, for example, the plates of a flat iron.
  • the composition in the above-described processes is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient to shape or alter the shape of the composition.
  • composition in the above-described processes is allowed to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time sufficient as to achieve a desired degree of hair straightening.
  • step (3) is preceded by steps (1) and (2) in the above-described processes.
  • the above-described process comprises the steps of:
  • the intermediate agent has a neutral pH and is selected from a shampoo or a conditioner
  • step (1 ) is optionally preceded by a step of rinsing the hair with water or contacting the hair with an intermediate agent such as a shampoo or a conditioner, followed by a step of rinsing the hair with water.
  • compositions in the above- described processes are preferably, in the form of an emulsion or a cream emulsion.
  • the chitosan of the polysaccharide material of the composition in the above-described processes is in neutralized form.
  • the alkoxylated siloxane amine is bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone.
  • the emulsifying agent is a nonionic surfactant comprising a fatty alcohol.
  • composition of the invention was stable over time and had a creamy, smooth, non- drip, and homogenous texture/consistency and effectively straightened hair.
  • the non-drip consistency of the compositions of the present invention is desirable because it helps the compositions to remain on the hair for a predetermined amount of time as to achieve the desired degree of straightening of the hair.
  • the present invention employs at least one polysaccharide material comprising chitosan and beta-glucan.
  • the chitosan comprising the polysaccharide materia! of the present invention has a molecular weight ranging from about 50 kilodalton to about 120 kilodalton, such as from about 50 kilodalton to about 80 kilodalton, or such as from about 1 10 kilodalton to about 120 kilodalton.
  • the chitosan comprising the polysaccharide material of the present invention has a molecular weight of about 110 kilodalton.
  • the chitosan comprising the polysaccharide material of the present invention has a molecular weight of about 120 kilodalton.
  • the chitosan comprising the polysaccharide material of the present invention is of vegetable origin.
  • the polysaccharide material of the present invention is commercially available from KitoZyme SA under the tradename ZENVIVO AQUA OR EX KIOSMETINE-CSH and comprises 80% by weight of chitosan of vegetable origin and having a molecular weight of about 1 10 kilodalton, 10% by weight of beta-glucan, and 10% by weight of water, all weights being based on the total weight of the polysaccharide material.
  • the at least one polysaccharide material comprising chitosan and beta- glucan can be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 1 .5 to about 4.5% by weight, or more preferably from about 2 to about 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the chitosan in the polysaccharide material is employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.8 to about 4% by weight, or preferably from about 1 .2 to about 3.6% by weight, or more preferably from about 1.6 to about 3.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the chitosan in the polysaccharide material is employed in the composition of the present invention is employed in an amount of about 1.4%, or about 1.6%, or about 1.8%, or about 2%, or about 2.2%, or about 2.6%, or about 2.8%, or about 3%, or about 3.2%, or about 3.4%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • SILICONE MATERIAL COMPRISING AN ALKOXYLATED SILOXANE AMINE The present invention employs at least one silicone material comprising at least one alkoxylated siloxane amine,
  • the alkoxylated siloxane amine is a siloxane polymer with at least one functional amino terminal group and having the formula (structure):
  • the alkoxylated silxoane amine is Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone, also known as Dimethicone Bisamino Hydroxypropyl Copolyol.
  • Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone is commercially available from the company Momentive Performance Materials under the tradename of Silsoft-A 843 which comprises 30% by weight of Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone, 66% by weight of dipropylene glycol and 4% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the material Silsoft-A843.
  • the at least one alkoxylated siloxane amine may be employed in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, or more preferably from about 0.15 to about 1 % by weight, or more preferably from about 0.2 to about 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the alkoxylated siloxane amine is employed in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of about 0.1 %, or about 0.15%, or about 0.2%, or about 0.25%, or about 0.3%, or about 0.35%, or about 0.4%, or about 0.45%, or about 0.5%, or about 0.55%, or about 0.6%, or about 1 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsifying agents which can be used according to the invention are those having an HLB greater than 7 such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol (monostearate or mono!aurate of polyethylene glycol); esters of fatty acids (stearate, oleate) of sorbitol which are polyoxyethylenated; polyoxy ethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl)ethers and dimethicone copolyols.
  • the emulsifying agents may also be those having less than 7 such as fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or -stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, laurates of glycerol or polethylene glycol.
  • fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesqui-oleates or -stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, laurates of glycerol or polethylene glycol.
  • nonionic or anionic emulsifying agents well known to persons skilled in the art.
  • nonionic emulsifying agents are chosen from nonionic surfactants having a Hydrophilic-Lipophtlic Balance (HLB) of from 8 to 20.
  • HLB Hydrophilic-Lipophtlic Balance
  • nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are not limited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols, alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, wherein the alkyl chain is in the C12-C50 range, preferably in the C16-C40 range, more preferably in the C24 to C40 range, and having from about 1 to about 1 10 alkoxy groups.
  • the alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferred alkoxides.
  • the alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated.
  • these alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated fatty alcohols and propoxylated fatty alcohols are more preferred.
  • the alkoxylated alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures thereof.
  • alkoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3, laureth ⁇ 23, ceteth-10, steareth-10, steareth-2, steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, and other derivatives and mixtures of the preceding.
  • alkyl glycosides which are the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C8-C30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers.
  • S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-C30 alkyl group.
  • Preferred examples of these surfactants are alkylpolyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-C20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.
  • surfactants include decyl polyglucoside and lauryl polyglucoside, all the above-identified polyglucosides APG® are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also useful herein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
  • glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters including but not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopa!mitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, and polyglyceryl esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl monoesters preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and
  • sorbitan esters are also useful herein as nonionic surfactants.
  • sorbitan esters Preferable are sorbitan esters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids. These sorbitan esters usually comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters.
  • suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan stearates, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan dipalmitates, and sorbitan isostearate.
  • alkoxylated derivatives of glyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides wherein the alkoxy groups is selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and their mixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of these materials being the preferred.
  • alkoxylated materials include polysorbate materials sold under the tradename of TWEEN® by Croda, Inc. (ethoxylated sorbitan mono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C12 to C18 fatty acids with an average degree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20).
  • Nonionic surfactants that may be used as emulsifying agents may also be chosen from polyether-modified silicones having a long chain of dimethyl siloxane units which carry polyethoxy-polypropoxy units in the chain and at the ends. Examples include cyclopentasiloxane PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, and PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone.
  • Another suitable nonionic surfactant is an alkoxylated alcohol of glyceryl esters such as the polyethylene glycol derivative of hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • the nonionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated alky! phenols, alpha-diols and alcohols, comprising fatty chains comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50.
  • the non-ionic surfactant may be chosen, for example, from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or polyoxypropylene/polyoxyethylene ethers of fatty alcohol; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycero!ated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, and, for example, 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, N-alkylglucamine derivatives, and amine oxides such as (C10-C14)alkyi amine oxides and N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants for use in the invention are fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polysorbate compounds and derivatives such as polysorbate-21 and polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, alkylpolyglucosides such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside and decyl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol
  • polysorbate compounds and derivatives such as polysorbate-21 and polysorbate-20
  • PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil PPG-5-Ceteth-20
  • alkylpolyglucosides such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside and decyl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the emulsifying agents according to the invention can also be anionic surfactants which may have a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) ranging from 10 to 40.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • They are principally salts of fatty acids (for example alkaline salts or organic salts such as amine salts), the said fatty acids having, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and being able to have a double bond as in the case of oleic acid; the alkaline salts or salts of organic bases of alkyl-sulfuric and alkyl-sulfonic acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, of alkyl-arylsulfonic acids whose alkyl chain contains 6 to 16 carbon atoms, the aryl group being, for example, a phenyl group.
  • ether- sulfates in particular, the suifatation products of fatty alcohols and polyalkoxylated alkylphenols, in which the aliphatic chain has from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and the polyalkoxylated chain has from 1 to 30 oxyalkylene units, in particular oxyethylene, oxypropylene or oxybutyiene.
  • Preferred emulsifying agents of the present invention are cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 21 , PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, decyl glucoside, oleth-2, laureth-7, glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one emulsifying agent is cetearyl alcohol.
  • the at least one emulsifying agent is not chosen from alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having an alkyl or alkoxy chain pendent or at the end of a silicone-based backbone having for example from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the emulsifying agents may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • compositions according to various embodiments of the disclosure can further comprise at least one component chosen from thickening agents, also referred to interchangeably herein as thickeners or rheology modifiers/rheology modifying agents.
  • thickening agents also referred to interchangeably herein as thickeners or rheology modifiers/rheology modifying agents.
  • Thickening agents are generally used to modify the viscosity or rheology of compositions.
  • Non-limiting examples of thickening agents that may be used according to various embodiments of the disclosure are chosen from cellulose-based thickening agents, acrylic-based thickening agents, acrylic acid- and/or aery late-based, and mixtures thereof and include those conventionally used in cosmetics, such as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers.
  • the thickening agents may be chosen from, for example, hydrophilic thickeners, for example cellulose polymers, cellulose gums, and cellulose derivatives such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • hydrophilic thickener is meant to indicate that the thickening agent is soluble or dispersible in water.
  • hydrophilic thickeners include carbomers, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof, such as the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by Allied Colloid, ULTRAHOLD 8® by Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylates and poiymethacry!ates such as the products sold under the names LUBRAJEL and NORGEL by Guardian, or under the name HiSPAJEL by Hispano Chimica, and polyacryiic acids of SYNTHALEN K type, polyacrylamides, copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof, such as under the names RETEN® by Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate such as sold under the name DARVAN 7® by Vanderbilt, polyacryiic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, as well as mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic thickeners include associative polymers.
  • associative polymer is intended to mean any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.
  • the associative polymers may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • Non-limiting examples of associative anionic polymers that may also be chosen include anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of (C 10 -C3o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
  • the thickening copolymers are chosen from the copolymers resulting from the polymerization of:
  • R 2 is chosen from H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , providing acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units, R 3 denoting a C 10 -C 30 alkyl radical, such as a C 12 -C 22 aikyt radical.
  • Non-limiting examples of (C 10 -C3o)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are for example chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acry!ate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyi methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • crosslinked thickening polymers may be chosen according to further exemplary embodiments.
  • such polymers may be chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
  • R 2 is chosen from H or CH 3 ,R 3 denoting an alky! radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizab!e polyethyienic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, ally! (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poiy)ethyiene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
  • acrylate/C 10 -C3o alkyl acrylate copolymers such as the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULENTM TR1 , PEMULENTM TR2, CARBOPOL® 1382 and CARBOPOL® EOT 2020 may be chosen.
  • thickening agents that may be optionally be used in the invention are crosslinked copoiymers comprising from 2.5% to 65% (meth)acrylic acid residues, from 10% to 80% C 2 -C 4 aikyl (meth)acrylate residues, from 2% to 25% lipophilica!iy modified (meth)acry!ate residues and residues of a crosslinker that has no ester or amide functionality.
  • Cationic associative polymers that may be chosen include, but are not limited to, quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing amine side groups.
  • Exemplary non-ionic associative polymers include celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, e.g. C 8 -C 22 alkyl groups, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, also known as Natrosoi® Plus (sold by the company Ashland); Bermocol!
  • alkyl groups e.g. C 8 -C 22 alkyl groups
  • arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups such as cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, also known as Natrosoi® Plus (sold by the company Ashland); Bermocol!
  • EHM 100 (sold by the company Berol Nobel), Amercell Polymer HM-1500® sold by Amerchol (hydroxyethyfceliulose modified with a polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether group, sold by the company Amerchol), celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydroxyethylcelluloses such as Cellosize® QP3L, QP4400H, QP30000H, HEC30000A and Polymer PCG10 (Amerchol), NatrosolTM 250HHR®, 250MR, 250M, 250HHXR, 250HHX, 250HR, HX (Hercules) and Tylose® H1000 (Hoechst); hydroxypropylcelluloses, for instance Klucel® EF, H, LHF, MF and G (Ashland); carboxymethylcelluloses, for instance Blanose® 7M8/SF, refined 7M, 7LF, 7MF, 9M31 F, 12M31XP, 12M31 P, 9M31XF, 7H, 7M31 , 7H3SXF (Ashland), Aquasorb® A500 (Hercules), Ambergum® 1221 (Hercules), Cellogen® HP810A, HP6HS9 (Montello) and Primellose® (Avebe).
  • Exemplary and non-limiting celluloses include hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses.
  • the products sold under the names KLUCEL EF, KLUCEL H, KLUCEL LHF, KLUCEL MF, KLUCEL G, by the company ASHLAND, CELLOSIZE POLYMER PCG-10 by the company AMERCHOL, may be chosen in various embodiments.
  • a thickening agent is a product known by the INCI name of polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer (Carbopol® Aqua CC, from the company, Lubrizol).
  • the thickening agents of the disclosure may include compounds such as gellifying and viscosity modifying agents,
  • the amounts of thickening agents in the compositions of the disclosure may range from about 0.05% to about 2% by weight, or such as from about 0.1 % to about 1 % by weight, or such as from about 0.25% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent of the present invention is selected from water, organic solvents, and mixtures thereof.
  • a water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water and/or tap water and/or well water.
  • the organic solvent that may comprise the cosmetically acceptable solvent of the present is water-miscible (at room temperature: 25°C).
  • the water- miscible organic solvent can be chosen from monoalcohois containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1 -C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvent is chosen from polyols.
  • the organic solvent is chosen from monoalcohois.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent may also comprise any water- soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with water or an aqueous phase, such as the above-described acrylic acid-/acrylate-based thickening agents, liquid fatty substances such as natural and synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises 100% water by weight.
  • the cosmetically acceptable solvent of the invention may comprise water in a content ranging from about 45% to about 100% by weight, or from about 50% to about 90% by weight, or from about 50% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges there between.
  • the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the present invention may be chosen, for example, from: quaternary ammonium salts such as tetra alkyl ammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkyl ammonium, trialkylbenzyl ammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkyl ammonium and alkylpyridinium chlorides and bromides; imidazoline derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as tetra alkyl ammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkyl ammonium, trialkylbenzyl ammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkyl ammonium and alkylpyridinium chlorides and bromides
  • imidazoline derivatives imidazoline derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the present invention is chosen from fatty quaternary amine compounds containing at least one alkyl chain having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the anion of the quaternary ammonium compound can be a common ion such as chloride, ethosulfate, methosulfate, acetate, bromide, lactate, nitrate, phosphate, or tosylate and mixtures thereof.
  • the long chain alkyl groups can include additional or replaced carbon or hydrogen atoms or ether linkages.
  • Other substitutions on the quaternary nitrogen can be hydrogen, benzyl or short chain alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl or combinations thereof.
  • examples of the at least one quaternary ammonium compound of the present invention include but are not limited to: Behentrimonium chloride, Cocotrimonium chloride, Cethethyldimonium bromide, Dibehenyldimonium chloride, Dihydrogenated tallow benzy!monium chloride, disoyadimonium chloride, Ditallowdimonium chloride, Hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium chloride, Hydroxyethyl Behenamidopropyl dimonium chloride, Hydroxyethyl Cetyldimonium chloride, Hydroxyethyl tallowdimonium chloride, myristalkonium chloride, PEG-2 Oleamonium chloride, PEG-5 Stearmonium chloride, PEG-15 cocoyl quaternium 4, PEG-2 stearalkonium 4, lauryltrimonium chloride; Quaternium-16; Quatemium-18, lauralkonium chloride, ole
  • the at least one quaternary ammonium compound is chosen from POLYQUATERNIUM-7, 10, 37, 47?, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one quaternary ammonium compound may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.5 to about 2.5% by weight, such as from about 1 to about 2.2% by weight, or from about 1.5 to about 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions, including all ranges and subranges there between.
  • the intermediate agent of the present invention may be any conventional shampoo or conditioner composition.
  • the intermediate agent has a neutral pH.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise any auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration, selected, for example, from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
  • auxiliary ingredient usually used in the field under consideration selected, for example, from conditioning agents, natural and synthetic oils, humectants, shine agents, fillers, colorants, pigments, chelating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the chitosan comprising the polysaccharide material of the present invention is preferably employed in a neutralized form.
  • the polysaccharide material containing the chitosan of the present invention is combined with a neutralizing acid in water or in an aqueous solution before the polysaccharide material is added into the composition of the present invention.
  • the neutralizing acid is employed in an amount sufficient to neutralize the chitosan contained in the polysaccharide material of the present invention.
  • Suitable neutralizing acids may be chosen from mineral such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, or sulfonic acids, and organic acids such as carboxylic acids, for instance glycolic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, butyric acid, butyric acid derivatives, hexanoic acid and hexanoic acid derivatives, pentanoic acid and pentanoic acid derivatives, glyceric acid, gluconic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, or sulfonic acids
  • organic acids such as carboxylic acids, for instance glycolic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, salicylic acid, butyric acid, butyric acid derivatives, hexanoic acid and hexanoic acid derivatives, pentanoic acid and pent
  • the neutralizing acid of the present invention is preferably chosen from glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the neutralizing acid is glycolic acid.
  • the neutralizing acid is lactic acid.
  • the neutralizing acid is not ascorbic acid.
  • the neutralizing acid is used in an amount such that the pH of the compositions of the invention is from about pH 2 to less than about 7, preferably, from about pH 3 to about 6, or more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 5 or even more preferably from about pH 3.5 to about 4.
  • the neutralizing acid is used in an amount such that the pH of the compositions of the invention is about 3.6, or about 3.8 or about 4, or about 4.2.
  • the at least one neutralizing acid of the present invention may be employed in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 3% by weight, or such as from about 0.1 % to about 2.5% by weight, or such as from about 0.15% to about 2% by weight, or such as from about 0.2% to about 1 % by weight, or such as from about 0.25% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • compositions of the present invention are in the form of an emulsion or cream such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions.
  • compositions of the present invention are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions or creams.
  • composition of the present invention is the form of a emulsion, preferably, an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 45 M3 to about 65 M3, such as from about 50 M3 to about 65 M3, or such as from about 55 M3 to about 65 M3, or such as from about 60 M3 to about 65 M3, or such as at about 62.5 M3, as measured by a Rheomat RM180 at 25°C.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of less than about 69.5 M3.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 55 M3 to about 65 M3 and a pH ranging from about pH 2 to less than about 7.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity of from about 60 M3 to about 62.5 M3 and a pH ranging from about pH 3.5 to about 4.
  • the composition of the present invention is a hair straightening composition.
  • composition of the present invention is stable such that the straightening efficacy of the composition is preserved until the composition is ready to be used.
  • compositions of the present invention did not exhibit phase separation.
  • the present invention also relates to a composition containing:
  • At least one silicone material comprising from 0.2% to 0.6% by weight an alkoxylated siloxane amine selected from bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone;
  • a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from water, an organic solvent, and mixtures thereof;
  • pH of the composition ranges from 2 to less than 7.
  • the silicone material in the above-described composition further comprises an organic solvent comprising dipropylene glycol.
  • the above-described composition further comprises from 1 % to 2% by weight of at least one quaternary ammonium compound.
  • the least one quaternary ammonium compound is selected from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof;
  • the above-described composition further comprises at least one neutralizing agent selected from organic acids, mineral acids, alkalizing agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • the thickening agent in the above-described composition is selected from hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carbomer, and mixtures thereof.
  • the invention also concerns a process of shaping or altering the shape of hair, for example, by straightening hair.
  • the process comprises the steps of:
  • the intermediate agent in the process above is a shampoo or conditioner, preferably having a neutral pH.
  • the composition is allowed to remain (leave-on time) on the keratin fibers, for example, from about 1 to about 60 minutes, or such as from about 5 to about 45 minutes, or such as from about 5 to about 30 minutes, or such as from about 10 to about 20 minutes, or such as at about 20 minutes, or such as at about 10 minutes.
  • Suitable devices for brushing or smoothing the hair include a hair brush, comb, or fiat iron.
  • the smoothing action on the hair may also include running the fingers through the hair.
  • a suitable applicator device is an applicator brush.
  • Heat (at a temperature of at least 40°C) can be applied to the hair while the smoothing action is performed on the hair.
  • the heat source can be chosen from a blow dryer, a flat iron, a hair dryer, a heat lamp, a heat wand, or other similar devices.
  • the composition present on the fibers or hair is left in place for a time, generally, from about 1 to about 60 minutes, such as from about 5 to about 45 minutes, or such as from about 5 to about 20 minutes, or such as from about 10 to about 20 minutes, or such as of about 20 minutes or such as of about 10 minutes.
  • the 5 compositions of the present invention have a non-drip consistency that is still easy to spread on keratin fibers, such as hair.
  • compositions and process .0 of the present disclosure may also be durable or wash resistant.
  • the degree of straightening the hair may be evaluated by visually assessing the reduction in curliness and/or waviness and/or frizziness of the hair after contacting the hair with the composition of the invention. Another type of evaluation can also involve measuring the length of the hair as well as the width of 5 the bulk of hair before and after contacting the hair with the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention may be packaged in any suitable container such as a tube, a jar or a bottle.
  • the composition can be packaged in a tube or bottle, for example, a squeeze tube or squeeze bottle.
  • the applicator device can be attached or connected to the 5 opening of the packaging tube or bottle wherein the applicator device is a brush or a comb with teeth such that the ends of the teeth have openings from which the composition of the invention can flow through and be applied directly onto the hair.
  • the process and composition disclosed herein may be used on the hair that has not been artificially dyed, pigmented or permed,
  • the process and composition disclosed herein may be also used on the hair that has been artificially dyed, pigmented or permed.
  • compositions/formulas described below are expressed in % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition/formula.
  • Kitozyme commercially supplied by Kitozyme as ZENVIVO AQUA (EX KIOSMETINE-CSH): 80% by weight chitosan, 10% by weight beta-glucan and 10% by weight water "commercially supplied by Akzo Nobel as STRUCTURE CEL 8000 M
  • SILSOFT A 843 30% by weight bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone, 66% by weight dipropylene glycol, and 4% by weight water
  • composition above was prepared as follows:
  • Cetearyl alcohol is heated to 70°C with agitation until fully solubilized.
  • the chitosan/beta-glucan material and glycolic acid were added to and mixed into the contents of the main container.
  • BELSIL ADM LOG 1 15% by weight amodimethicone, 6% by weight trideceth-5, 1.5% by weight trideceth-10, 4.6% glycerin, preservatives and acetic acid.
  • the consistency and texture of the inventive formulas allow for the formulas to be packaged jars, in tubes (e.g., squeeze tubes) or bottles (eg, applicator bottles).
  • a viscosity measurement in M3 units ranging up to less than about 69.5 generally corresponded to a texture and consistency of a gei or a cream (such as a hair conditioner or a hair masque) and a viscosity measurement at greater than about 70 M3, such as in the range of M4 units, corresponded to a texture and viscosity of a paste or balm composition.
  • the cream texture of the compositions of the present invention was much more desirable for ease of application of the composition into the hair, spreadability of the composition on the hair, and/or ease of brushing or combing the hair.
  • the inventive compositions with the cream texture also did not readily drip off the hair contacted with the compositions and remained on the hair during the straightening processing time.
  • Process 1 inventive process
  • Process 2 comparative process which is based on traditional/conventional processes
  • the hair was brushed with a hair brush using 20 to 30 strokes; 4. the hair was smoothed and heated with a flat iron set at 230°C and using 10 strokes (or passes);
  • test composition (Inventive or comparative) was applied onto the hair using an applicator brush device (approximately 1 gram of the composition per gram of hair or approximately 300 grams per head of hair);
  • composition was allowed to remain on the hair for about 10 minutes;
  • Process 2 comparative process
  • the hair was contacted with a shampoo (neutral pH); 2. the hair was rinsed with water;
  • test composition (inventive or comparative) was applied onto the hair using an applicator brush device (approximately 1 gram of the composition per gram of hair or approximately 300 grams per head of hair);
  • composition was allowed to remain on the hair for about 10 minutes;

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour mettre en forme ou modifier la forme de cheveux, consistant à brosser les cheveux qui ont été éventuellement pré-shampooinés et/ou pré-lavés ; chauffer les cheveux ; appliquer une composition sur les cheveux, et la laisser sur les cheveux pendant une certaine période de temps ; et mettre en contact les cheveux avec un agent intermédiaire et/ou de l'eau ; la composition contenant une matière de polysaccharide comprenant du chitosane et du bêta-glucane ; une matière de silicone comprenant une amine de siloxane alcoxylée ; un agent émulsifiant, un agent épaississant ; un solvant cosmétiquement acceptable choisi parmi l'eau, un solvant organique, et des mélanges de ceux-ci ; le pH de la composition étant compris entre environ 2 et environ moins de 7.
PCT/BR2014/000399 2014-10-31 2014-10-31 Procédé et composition contenant une matière de polysaccharide, une silicone et un agent émulsifiant pour mettre en forme des cheveux WO2016065438A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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PCT/BR2014/000399 WO2016065438A1 (fr) 2014-10-31 2014-10-31 Procédé et composition contenant une matière de polysaccharide, une silicone et un agent émulsifiant pour mettre en forme des cheveux

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PCT/BR2014/000399 WO2016065438A1 (fr) 2014-10-31 2014-10-31 Procédé et composition contenant une matière de polysaccharide, une silicone et un agent émulsifiant pour mettre en forme des cheveux

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20060194760A1 (en) * 1999-03-12 2006-08-31 Biotec Asa Cosmetic preparations
US20090165812A1 (en) * 2007-09-10 2009-07-02 Lionel Resnick Hair straightening formulations, methods and systems
WO2014072478A1 (fr) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 L'oreal Composition comprenant un composé dicarbonyle et un amino-silicone, et procédé de défrisage des cheveux au moyen de cette composition

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20060194760A1 (en) * 1999-03-12 2006-08-31 Biotec Asa Cosmetic preparations
US20090165812A1 (en) * 2007-09-10 2009-07-02 Lionel Resnick Hair straightening formulations, methods and systems
WO2014072478A1 (fr) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 L'oreal Composition comprenant un composé dicarbonyle et un amino-silicone, et procédé de défrisage des cheveux au moyen de cette composition

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