WO2016053785A1

WO2016053785A1 - Actives for stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes to lighten hyperpigmented skin

Info

Publication number: WO2016053785A1
Application number: PCT/US2015/052220
Authority: WO
Inventors: Caroline Françoise POLLEFLIET; Hugo A.L. CORSTJENS; Lieve Declercq; Daniel B. Yarosh
Original assignee: Elc Management Llc
Priority date: 2014-09-29
Filing date: 2015-09-25
Publication date: 2016-04-07
Also published as: CN106999372A; CA2962932A1; JP2017532956A; AU2015324179A1; EP3200683A4; US20160089319A1; EP3200683A1; KR20170060141A

Abstract

A method is provided for identifying a material having an efficacy for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented skin lesion and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented skin lesion without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis. The method includes the steps of applying a composition containing a material to be tested to the hyperpigmented skin lesion; and after an interval of time, observing whether the composition has effected at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae, in a basal layer of epidermis in the hyperpigmented lesion of skin.

Description

ACTIVES FOR STIMULATING DIFFERENTIATION OF KERATINOCYTES

TO LIGHTEN HYPERPIGMENTED SKIN

BACKGROUND

FIELD OF PRIOR ART

The present invention relates to a model for identifying materials which inhibit the proliferation, and stimulate the differentiation, of keratinocytes in hyperpigmented lesions of the skin. Such materials reduce the color contrast between the hyperpigmented lesion and the surrounding skin, thereby evening skin tone.

DESCRIPTION OF PRIOR ART

A global concern of consumers, especially women, is unevenness in skin tone. Certain skin cells, melanocytes, are responsible for producing pigment which determines the color of skin. Melanocytes produce and discharge melanin pigment to surrounding keratinocytes in the epidermis. Keratinocytes are driven upwards toward the skin surface by the natural process of cell renewal.

As skin ages, it undergoes transformations which directly influence its appearance. The effect of environmental factors, primarily exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, and hormonal factors, which result in thinning skin and a reduction in the rate of cellular renewal, can lead to uneven skin tone. Exposure to UV radiation, which has been shown to cause DNA damage, also affects the distribution of melanin in skin. UV radiation can produce reactive oxygen species (ROS) which stimulate melanin production by activating Tyrosinase and other enzymes in melanocytes. Additionally, with a slowing down of cellular renewal, keratinocytes and melanocytes remain in contact longer. As a result of this increased contact time, the amount of melanin transferred to keratinocytes increases. As the epidermis loses its thickness, these melanocytes and keratinocytes, containing increased quantities of dark pigment, are closer to the skin's surface and are therefore more visible.

Solar lentigines or age spots are flat, brown, benign skin lesions which typically occur in aging skin, particularly on the upper surfaces of the hands, face and forearms. The appearance of these lesions is associated with cumulative and intermittent UV exposure and is considered a clinical marker for photodamage of the skin. Solar lentigines are also associated with exposure to particulate levels in polluted air. These lesions are common in both Caucasian and Asian populations but appear to occur earlier and be more pronounced in the skins of Asian individuals.

Histological studies have shown that lesional skin is characterized by

hyperpigmentation of the basal layer of the epidermis (i.e., the lowermost layer of the epidermis, adjacent the dermis, containing melanocytes and keratinocytes), an increased number of melanocytes, and the lengthening of the dermal papillae which superficially project into the epidermal region, interlocking with adjacent downward projections of the epidermis (Mehregan, A.H., Lentigo senilis and its evolutions. Invest Dermatol. 1975; 65(5): 429-433; Montagna, W. et al. A reinvestigation of solar lentigines. Arch Dermatol 1980; 1 16: 1151- 1154). It has been suggested that these complex structural modifications may be the result of an increased epidermal proliferation rate and a perturbation of the dermal-epidermal junction (Noblesse, E., et al. Ultrastructure in senile lentigo. Skin Pharmaco. Physiol. 2006; 19: 95- 100). It has also been indicated that the release of keratinocyte growth factor and interleukin- la contribute to the hyperpigmentation of solar lentigines (Chen, N. et al. The role of keratinocyte growth factor in melanogenesis: a possible mechanism for the initiation of solar lentigines. Exp. Dermatol. 19(10), 865-872, 2010). Analysis of gene expression within the lentigo also suggests upregulation of genes associated with a microinflammatory response (Goyarts, E. et al. Morphological Changes Associated with Aging: Age Spots and the Microinflammatory Model of Skin Aging. Ann. N. Y Acad. Sci. 1 119:32-39, 2007). This is consistent with the hyperproliferation of keratinocytes observed within the lentigo as part of an inflammatory response.

Clinical research by the inventors on age spots of Caucasian women has shown a higher epidermal proliferation rate associated with these spots compared with adjacent skin. Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) revealed a profound structural deformation of the dermal papillae, as the alignment pattern of hyperrefractive basal cells shifted from a circle (associated with non-lesional skin) to an irregular non-circular shape (typical of solar lentigines). Additionally, a rise in the number of dermal papillae was observed. It was also shown, in a study conducted over a five year period, that, over time, the solar lentigines became darker and enlarged, and the dermal papillae became more deformed. (Pollefliet, C. et al. Morphological characterization of solar lentigines by in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy: a longitudinal approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. Apr: 35(2): 149-55, 2013).

Uneven pigmentation is a concern for many people, and more particularly, for woman. Age spots, specifically, are considered by most persons to be visually unattractive. The unevenness of skin tone, and especially the appearance of hyperpigmented regions or dark (age) spots in the skin, has led to a multitude of skin lightening agents on the market.

Foundation and concealer are frequently used to cover or to camouflage differences in skin tone. Additionally, cosmetic treatments which affect the melanogenesis cascade, particularly those which inhibit the enzyme Tyrosinase, have been shown to decrease the amount of melanin present in solar lentigines, resulting in a lightened pigmented spot. Such agents include, but are not limited to, hydroquinone, which is said to be cytotoxic to melanocytes, and its derivatives, including arbutin; Tyrosinase inhibitors, such as Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives; kojic acid; polyphenols; benzaldehyde and benzoate derivatives; and retinoids, which are derivatives of Vitamin A.

Notwithstanding the overall safety of hydroquinone, its potential adverse effects, including erythema, skin irritation, contact dermatitis, and hypopigmentation of surrounding skin, have stimulated interest in finding other, safer skin lighteners.

The present discovery by the inventors is that materials which inhibit proliferation of keratinocytes and stimulate their differentiation surprisingly and unexpectedly also improve the appearance of age spots and make the skin look more even-toned. More surprisingly, these materials are not classic skin whitening actives (i.e., those actives which are known to affect the melanogenesis cascade).

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a model for identifying new whitening agents which promote evenness of skin tone. Formulations containing these new whitening agents perform as well as classical whitening formulations to reduce color contrast between age spots and skin surrounding the age spots without the potential adverse effects attributable to traditional whitening actives.

In accordance with the invention, there is provided a method of identifying a material having an efficacy for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented skin lesion and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented skin lesion without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis, said method comprising:

(a) applying a composition containing a material to be tested to the hyperpigmented skin lesion; and

(b) after an interval of time, for example, after at least about one months, such as two, three or four months, observing whether the composition has effected at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae, in a basal layer of epidermis in the hyperpigmented lesion of skin.

Preferably, the efficacy of the test formulation for improving at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae, in a basal layer of epidermis in the hyperpigmented lesion of skin, is evaluated using Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM).

Also provided is a method for lightening skin, comprising applying to skin in need of said lightening, a topical composition comprising at least one active which effects at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae in a basal layer of epidermis in a hyperpigmented lesion of skin, wherein the active enables lightening of the skin in a hyperpigmented lesion relative to skin surrounding the hyperpigmented lesion without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis. In some embodiments, the topical composition further comprises a skin lightening active which directly affects melanocytes or melanogenesis.

The invention also concerns an improved topical cosmetic composition for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented skin lesion and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented lesion, said composition comprising at least one first active which directly affects melanocytes or melanogenesis, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle therefor, wherein the improvement comprises including in said composition a second active for effecting at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and decreasing compressive deformation of dermal papillae in a basal layer of epidermis in the hyperpigmented lesion of the skin, without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis.

The invention further concerns a regimen for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented lesion of skin and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented lesion, comprising:

(a) applying to skin in need of such reduction in color contrast, a first cosmetic composition comprising a first skin lightening active for at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae in a basal layer of epidermis in a hyperpigmented lesion of skin, without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle therefor; and

(b) applying to the skin in need of such reduction in color contrast a second cosmetic composition comprising a second skin lightening active which directly affects melanocytes or melanogenesis, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle therefor; wherein (a) and (b) may occur in any order.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES Figure 1A is a bar graph representing the circularity index of dermal papillary rings in hyperpigmented lesions at baseline and after a treatment period of four months with differentiation stimulating formulations containing Phytofix but no traditional whitening actives.

Figure IB is a bar graph representing the circularity index of dermal papillary rings in hyperpigmented lesions at baseline and after a treatment period of four months with formulations not containing Phytofix or traditional whitening actives.

Figure 1C is a bar graph showing differences in the circularity indices shown in Figures la and lb.

Figure 2A is a bar graph indicating the number of dermal papillae in hyperpigmented lesions treated with Phytofix-containing differentiation stimulating formulations.

Figure 2B is a bar graph showing the number of dermal papillae in hyperpigmented lesions treated with formulations which did not contain Phytofix or traditional whitening actives.

Figure 2C is a bar graph showing difference observed in the number of dermal papillae shown in Figures 2A and 2B. Figure 3 is a graph representing color contrast data between the skin of a solar lentigo and surrounding skin after 1, 2, 3 and 4 months after skin treatment.

Figure 4A is a set of dermoscopic pictures of solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention.

Figure 4B is a set of dermoscopic pictures of solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention followed by a formulation containing conventional whitening actives.

Figure 5 is a set of bar graphs showing the effect on circularity index of papillary rings in solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention or the differentiation stimulating formulation followed by a formulation containing conventional whitening actives compared with treatment with a vehicle/base for the differentiation stimulating formulation.

Figure 6 is a set of dermoscopic pictures of solar lentigines and Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) images of the solar lentigines recorded at the dermal-epidermal interface representing the improvement in circularity index after treatment with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention.

Figure 7 is a set of bar graphs representing the number of dermal papillae present in solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention or the differentiation stimulating formulation followed by a formulation containing conventional whitening actives compared with treatment with a vehicle/base for the differentiation stimulating formulation.

Figure 8 is a set of dermoscopic pictures of solar lentigines and RCM images of the solar lentigines recorded at the dermal-epidermal interface representing the improvement in number of dermal papillary rings after treatment with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention.

Figure 9A is a set of bar graphs showing the effect on epidermal thickness of solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention or the differentiation stimulating formulation followed by a formulation containing conventional whitening actives compared with treatment with a vehicle/base for the differentiation stimulating formulation. Figure 9B is a set of bar graphs showing the effect on thickness of the stratum corneum of solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention or the differentiation stimulating formulation followed by a formulation containing conventional whitening actives compared with treatment with a vehicle/base for the differentiation stimulating formulation. Figure 10 is a set of bar graphs showing epidermal proliferation as measured by auto- fluorescence of solar lentigines treated with a differentiation stimulating formulation of the invention or the differentiation stimulating formulation followed by a formulation containing conventional whitening actives compared with treatment with a vehicle/base for the differentiation stimulating formulation. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OF THE

INVENTION

Solar lentigo is commonly observed in photoaged skin. It is characterized by solar lentigines or hyperpigmented age spots or lesions appearing in chronically irradiated skin. These spots are benign and typically occur in the skins of individuals after age 50. From microscopic studies, it is known that there are significant modifications of lesional skin in comparison with adjacent normal skin, including a hyperpigmented basal layer with melanin accumulation and decrease in evacuation of melanin overproduction, elongation of epidermis rete ridges, and disorganization and disruption of dermal epidermal junction (reduced barrier quality) associated with an increase of keratinocyte basal microvillosity.

Previous investigations by the inventors have shown that these lesions demonstrate increased Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and decreased caspase-14 activity, supporting the observations of others that age spots are characterized by an impaired barrier function. Investigations by the inventors, using RCM, confirmed profound structural deformations of the dermal papillae in solar lentigines, and led them to consider whether the deformations might be reversible. The capabilities of various topical cosmetic formulations to improve or reverse the deformations were investigated as discussed below.

EXAMPLES 1. Effect of Cosmetic Raw Materials on the Morphology of Solar Lentigenes

Forty-one volunteers were enrolled in a four month clinical study. Only panelists with clear visible age spots on their hand could participate. The mean age of the panelists was 61 years with the minimum and maximum ages being 47 and 74, respectively. All volunteers were Caucasian and exhibited Fitzpatrick skin type II or III. The test area was a solar lentigo on the dorsal side of each of both hands. Panelists with any kind of dermatological disorder or hypersensitivity or allergy to ethanol and/or cosmetic products were excluded from the study. Written informed consent was obtained from each volunteer before entrance into the study.

Phytofix, an active containing sphingolipids, triglycerides and sterols which are derived from sunflower, barley and cucumber extracts, is said to mimic the structure of the skin's membrane and is widely used for its skin barrier repair properties. Various formulations, containing no traditional whitening actives, were evaluated for their age spot lightening efficacy. Formulations 1-3, containing Phytofix, and formulations 4 and 5, without Phytofix, are shown in Table 1, below.

Formulation 1 was tested on 12 panelists (one age spot/panelist for a total of 12 age spots). Formulation 2 was applied by 13 panelists (one age spot/panelist for a total of 13 age spots), Formula 3 was used by 16 panelists (two age spot/panelist for a total of 32 age spots), Formulation 4 was tested on 14 panelists (one age spot/panelist for a total of 14 age spots) and formulation 5 was used by 10 panelists (one age spot/panelist for a total of 10 age spots). Each panelist liberally applied the formulation, twice a day (morning and evening) for 4 months, on the entire dorsal surface of her hand. Panelists were instructed not to use any other cosmetic products on their hands during the clinical study. One age spot on each hand, selected by the investigator, was evaluated monthly.

Table 1

Formula

1 2 3 4 5

INGREDIENT NAME WEIGHT PERC ENT

GRANSIL T MG-5 JH GEL 23.000000 23.000000 23.000000

XIAMET ER AFE-0100 AF EMULSION FG 0.000194 0.000194

FLORALOZONE 0.006000 0.006000

BHT 0.010000 0.010000

CORIANDER OIL A 0.020000 0.020000

MALT EXT RACT BROT H 214912 0.029410 0.029410

YEAST EXT RACT SC

GRANSIL IDS GEL 10.000000 10.000000 10.000000

1 ,3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6.007000 6.007000 6.007000 PERMET HYL 99A 2.000000 2.000000 2.000000

SIMULGEL 600 1 .500000 1 .500000 1 .500000

CARBOWAX 300 SENT RY 1 .000000 1 .000000 1 .000000

ARIST OFLEX AVC 0.600000 0.600000 0.600000

PHYT OFIX 0.500000 0.500000 0.500000

TWEEN 20 L 0.500000 0.500000 0.500000

BARGUARD CP/DIOCIDE 0.300000 0.300000 0.300000

VITAMIN E, USP, FCC, CODE 0420085 0.200000

SODIUM RIBONUCLEIC ACID 0.100000 0.100000 0.100000

FD&C YELLOW NO. 5 , 08005 0.000260 0.000260 0.000260

FD&C YELLOW NO. 6, 08006 0.000090 0.000090 0.000090

XIAMET ER PMX-200 SILICONE FL. I OCS 10.000000 10.000000

XIAMET ER PMX-200 SILICONE FL l OOCS 5.000000 5.000000

SEPIGEL 305 3.400000 3.400000

CAT EZOMES SA-20 JPN 2.500000 2.500000

TWEEN 40 LQ 2.500000 2.500000

HYDROLIT E 5 , 2/016020 2.000000 2.000000

MYRISTYL ALCOHOL NACOL 14-98 1 .000000 1 .000000

SUCROSE, ULT RA PURE 0.750000 0.750000

RHODASURF L-790 0.750000 0.750000

BRONIDOX 1 160 0.700000 0.700000

CORN OIL N.F. REFINED 0.500000 0.500000

SORBIT OL SOLUT ION 70% 0.500000 0.500000

BIO-CONVERT ED WHIT E BIRCH/E.L. 0.500000 0.500000

CAUST IC SODA 30% 0. 197000 0.197000

N-ACET YL-D-GLUCOSAMINE 0.194070 0.194070

GERMAZIDE C R10284 0.100000 0.100000

GRASNOW AE 0.100000 0.100000

HEDIONE 964898 0.080000 0.080000

GRAPEFRUIT CALIFORNIA 0.060000 0.060000

CIT RIC ACID-ANHYD., USP-FCC (GRANU.) 0.050000 0.050000

LAVENDER OIL SPECIAL 40/42 0.034000 0.034000

EDETA BD/ NA2 0.050000 0.020000 0.020000 0.050000 0.050000

DM-FLUID A-6CS 5.000000 3.000000 3.000000 5.000000 5.000000

HYALURONIC ACID, SODIUM SALT , POWD 0.100000 0.100000 0.100000 0.100000 0.100000

KF-6017 1 .000000 0.750000 0.750000 1 .500000 1 .000000 PHENOXET OL 0.290000 0.100000 0.100000 0.290000 0.290000

DEIONIZED WAT ER 47.852650 64.449326 64.449326 48.1 52650 48.652650

100.000000 100.000000 100.000000 100.000000 100.000000 Formula 1 is prepared as follows:

Prepare premix B (sequence 10) at the beginning of the batch by heating 3% Butylene glycol to 70°C. in a vessel, adding 1% Carbowax, and mixing at 2000RPM.

In a separate support kettle:

Sequence 1 : Add 10% Hyaluronic acid to support kettle and side sweep at 8RPM. Sequence 2: Add 0.5% Tween 20 to support kettle.

Sequence 3: Add 23% Gransil TMG-5 to support kettle and mix at 2500RPM, add 10% Gransil IDS to support kettle,

add 5%) DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 2% Permethyl to support kettle,

add 0.5% Phytofix to support kettle, and

adjust temperature to 25°C.

Sequence 4: Add 1% KF-6017 to support kettle, and mix until uniform and smooth.

Sequence 5: Add 38% deionized water to main kettle,

heat at 50°,

mix at 531RPM,

side weep at 5RPM,

add 0.05% EDETA to main kettle,

add 0.1% Sodium ribonucleic acid to main kettle,

adjust temperature to 25°C.

Sequence 6: Add 0.6%> Aristoflex (50-3214) to main kettle.

Prepare premix A (sequence 9) by introducing 3% Butylene glycol into a vessel, heating at 70°C, then adding 0.3% Barguard cp.

Sequence 7: Add 0.2% Phenoxetol to main kettle, and introduce batch from support kettle.

Sequence 8: Add 0.2% Vitamin E to main kettle.

Sequence 9: Add premix A to main kettle.

Sequence 10 Add premix B to main kettle.

Sequence 11 Add 1.5% Simulgel 600 to main kettle.

Sequence 12 Add 0.026% FD&C Yellow no 5 to main kettle, add 0.009% FD&C Yellow no 6 to main kettle, and mix until uniform.

Formula 2 is prepared as follows: Prepare premix B (sequence 3) by adding 2.5% Tween 40 to a vessel, mixing at 3000

RPM, adding 0.5% Phytofix, heating to 80°C, and then turning the heat off.

Prepare premix C (sequence 5) by adding 5% deionized water to a separate vessel, mixing at 2500RPM, and adding 0.1% Ribonucleic acid.

Prepare premix D (sequence 6) by adding 2% Hydrolite to a separate vessel, mixing at 2000RPM, heating the vessel to 40°C, and adding 0.7% Bronidox.

Sequence 1 : Add 47.87% deionized water to the main kettle,

adjust temperature to 60°C, then side sweep on 12RPM, and mix at 910RPM, add 0.02% Edeta to the main kettle,

add 0.75% Sucrose to the main kettle,

add 10% Hyaluronic acid to the main kettle,

add 0.1% Germazide to the main kettle,

add 0.5% Sorbitol to the main kettle,

add 0.75% Rhodasurf to the main kettle, and

add 0.05% Citric acid to the main kettle,

Sequence 2: Add 5% Xiameter to support kettle,

mix at 1000RPM,

heat at 60°C,

add 10% Xiameter to support kettle,

add 3%) DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 1% Myristyl alcohol to support kettle,

add 0.5% Corn oil to support kettle,

add 0.75% KF-6017 to support kettle, and

add 0.01% BHT to support kettle.

Sequence 3 : Add premix B to the main kettle, then add batch from support kettle. Sequence 4: Cool main kettle on 30°C. setting. When temperature reaches 40°C, add 0.1% Grasnow AE to the main kettle,

add 2.5% Catezomes to the main kettle, add 2% Yeast extract to the main kettle,

add 0.5% Bio-converted white birch to the main kettle, mix at 1220RPM then side sweep at 15RPM.

Sequence 5 Add premix C to the main kettle.

Sequence 6 Add premix D to the main kettle.

Sequence 7 Add 0.2%) Maskent blend to the main kettle.

Sequence 8 Adjust pH to 5 by adding 0.197% Caustic soda to the main kettle.

Sequence 9 Add 3.4% Sepigel 305 to the main kettle. Formula 3 is prepared as follows:

Prepare premix B (sequence 3) by adding 2.5% Tween 40 to a vessel, mixing at 3000 RPM, adding 0.5% Phytofix, heating to 80°C, and then turning the heat off. Prepare premix C (sequence 6) by adding 5% deionized water to a separate vessel, mixing at 2500RPM, and adding 0.1% Ribonucleic acid.

Prepare premix D (sequence 8) by adding 2% Hydrolite to a separate vessel, mixing at 2000RPM, heating to 40°C, and adding 0.7% Bronidox.

Sequence 1 : Add 47.87% deionized water to the main kettle,

adjust temperature to 60°C,

side sweep at 12RPM,

mix at 910RPM,

add 0.02% Edeta to the main kettle

add 0.75% Sucrose to the main kettle,

add 10% Hyaluronic acid to the main kettle,

add 0.1% Germazide to the main kettle,

add 0.5% Sorbitol to the main kettle,

add 0.75% Rhodasurf to the main kettle, and

add 0.05% Citric acid to the main kettle.

Sequence 2: Add 5% Xiameter (68-0451) to support kettle;

mix at 1000RPM,

heat to 60°C,

add 10% Xiameter to support kettle add 3% DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 1% Myristyl alcohol to support kettle,

add 0.5% Corn oil to support kettle,

add 0.75% KF-6017 (60-0031) to support kettle, and

add 0.01% BHT (51-0669) to support kettle.

Sequence 3 : Add premix B to the main kettle, and add the contents of the support kettle.

Sequence 4: Switch heat off, and cool main kettle on 30°C. setting. When temperature reaches 40°C, add 0.1% Grasnow AE to the main kettle,

add 2.5% Catezomes to the main kettle,

add 2% Yeast extract to the main kettle,

add 0.5% Bio-converted white birch to the main kettle,

mix at 1220RPM then side sweep speed at 15RPM.

Sequence 5: Add premix C to the main kettle.

Sequence 6: Add premix D to the main kettle.

Sequence 7: Add 0.2% Maskent blend to the main kettle.

Sequence 8: Adjust pH to 5 by adding 0.197% Caustic soda to the main kettle.

Sequence 9: Add 3.4% Sepigel 305 to the main kettle. Formula 4 is prepared as follows:

Sequence 1 : Add 10% Hyaluronic acid to support kettle and side sweep on 8RPM.

Sequence 2: Add 0.5% Tween 20 to support kettle.

Sequence 3: Add 23% Gransil TMG-5 to support kettle,

mix at 2500RPM,

add 10% Gransil IDS to support kettle,

add 5%> DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 2% Permethyl to support kettle, and

adjust temperature to 25°C.

Sequence 4: Add 1.5% KF-6017 to support kettle and mix until uniform and smooth.

Sequence 5: Add 38% deionized water to main kettle,

heat on 50°C,

mix at 481RPM,

side sweep on 5RPM, add 0.05% EDETA to main kettle, and

turn heat off.

Sequence 6: Cool main kettle to 25°C. When temperature reaches 25°C, add 0.6% Aristoflex to main kettle.

Prepare premix A (sequence 8) by adding 3% Butylene glycol to a vessel and heating , adding 0.3% Barguard cp, then adding 1% Carbowax 30, and mixing at 2000RPM.

Sequence 7: Add 0.2% Phenoxetol to main kettle. Add ingredients from support kettle to main kettle.

Sequence 8: Add premix A to main kettle.

Sequence 9: Add 1.5% Simulgel 600 to main kettle.

Sequence 10: Add 0.026% FD&C Yellow no. 5 to main kettle,

add 0.009% FD&C Yellow no. 6 to main kettle, and mix until uniform.

Formula 5 is prepared as follows:

Sequence 1 : Add 10% Hyaluronic acid to support kettle and side sweep on 8RPM. Sequence 2: Add 0.5% Tween 20 to support kettle.

Sequence 3: Add 23% Gransil TMG-5 to support kettle,

mix at 2500RPM,

add 10% Gransil IDS to support kettle,

add 5%> DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 2% Permethyl to support kettle, and adjust temperature to 25°C.

Sequence 5: Add 38% deionized water to main kettle,

heat main kettle to 50°C,

mix at 481RPM, then side sweep on 5RPM,

add 0.05% EDETA to main kettle, and turn heat off.

Sequence 6: Cool main kettle to 25°C, and when temperature reaches 25°C, add 0.6%

Aristoflex to main kettle.

Prepare premix A (sequence 8) by adding 3% Butylene glycol to a vessel and heating , then adding 0.3% Barguard cp, adding 1% Carbowax 30, and mixing at 2000RPM. Sequence 7: Add 0.2% Phenoxetol to main kettle; then add contents of support kettle to main kettle.

Sequence 8: Add premix A to main kettle.

Sequence 9: Add 1.5% Simulgel 600 to main kettle.

Sequence 10: Add 0.026% FD&C Yellow no. 5 to main kettle,

add 0.009% FD&C Yellow no. 6 to main kettle, and mix until uniform.

In this study, the effect of cosmetic raw materials on the morphology of solar lentigines was evaluated by Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM) using a Vivascope (Lucid 1500) before treatment and then after 4 months of treatment. RCM is a noninvasive technique for "in vivo" examination of the skin. The Vivascope is placed on the dorsal side of the hand. An ultrasound gel (refractive index 1.36) is used as immersion medium between the objective lens and the skin. RCM acquires horizontal tissue images of a field of view of 500 x 500 μιη and has an automated stepper obtaining sequentially deeper individual images, 3 μιη apart, from the corneal layer to the superficial dermis (Z-axis stack) at the same point on the horizontal plane (XY-axis). From each age spot, six optical sections of the skin were obtained from the corneal layer to the superficial dermis.

In a confocal microscope, near-infrared light from a diode laser is focused on a microscopic skin target. As this light passes between cellular structures having different refractive indices, it is naturally reflected, and this reflected light is then captured and recomposed into a two-dimensional gray scale image by computer software. Focusing the microscope (that is, adjusting the focal point on the z-axis) allows images of different levels within the skin to be obtained. Detection requires the presence of intrinsic microstructure- specific contrast, which is provided by melanin, hemoglobin and cellular organelles. Melanin is the best endogenous contrast agent in pigmented skin, allowing the detection of melanin- containing cells due to its high refractivity. Commercially available microscope systems of this type can create images with sufficient detail to be used in histological analysis (Calzavara- Pinton P., Longo C, Venturini M., Sala R., Pellacani G. Photochem Pholobiol. 2008 Nov-Dec; 84(6): 1421-30). The Vivascope 1500 system is a reflectance confocal microscope that has the capability to image cells in real-time, layer by layer through living tissue. These images can be used to measure the thickness of the skin and its different layers and the shape of the dermal papillary rings. The Vivascope 1500 uses a near infrared laser at 830nm operating at a power of less than 20mW and is equipped with a 30X objective lens of numerical aperture 0.9. The circularity index and the number of hyperrefractive dermal papillae (per mm²) were calculated from the RCM images. The circularity index of a perfect circle equals 100; therefore, a lower index corresponds to a more pronounced deviation from a circle. As an increased number of dermal papillary rings is also associated with deformed morphology of the lesions, as compared with non-lesional areas of the skin, a decrease in the number of rings is considered to be an improvement in morphology. Time dependent effects were evaluated using a paired Student's t test. Differences between treatments were evaluated using a Student's t test for unpaired samples. The results are represented in Figures la, b, c; and Figures 2a, b, c.

Figure la represents the circularity index at baseline and after a treatment period of four months with formulations with or without Phytofix, and each formulation containing no traditional whitening actives. Treatment with formulations 1, 2 and 3, each containing 0.5% Phytofix, showed a statistically significant increase (p<10^~4) in circularity index (from 72.33 to 73.69) of the dermal papillae of lesions (age spots) indicating an improvement (i.e., reduction) of the deformed morphology of the basement membrane of the hyperpigmented spots. The circularity index of the dermal papillae of non-lesional skin was found to be about 80 (not shown). As indicated in Figure lb, a four month treatment with formulations 4 and 5, without Phytofix, showed no effect on the circularity index (which ranged from 75.24 to 74.71).

The differences in the circularity indices observed before and after treatment were calculated for the treatments with or without Phytofix (Figure lc). The formulations containing Phytofix showed an increase in circularity index of 1.4, indicating an improvement of the deformed morphology, while for the formulations without Phytofix, there was no improvement (i.e., a decrease of 0.5). The difference between the two sets of formulations was statistically significant, suggesting that Phytofix was contributing to the effects observed.

The inventors had previously observed that, over time (without treatment), the average circularity index in age spots decreases over 5 years by 1.7 (Pollefliet, C. et al. Morphological characterization of solar lentigines by in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy: a longitudinal approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. Apr: 35(2): 149-55, 2013).

As shown in Figure 2a, the number of dermal papillae in hyperpigmented lesions treated with Phytofix-containing formulations 1, 2 and 3 decreased from 160.7 to 151.7. This phenomenon was not observed for lesions treated with formulations 4 and 5, which did not contain Phytofix, as indicated in Figure 2b, where the number of dermal papillae increased from 138.7 to 153.3. The difference in the number of dermal papillae before and after the treatment also was calculated. This difference, as indicated in Fig. 2c, was negative for the Phytofix-containing formulations (-9.0) indicating a reduction in the number of papillary rings. The treatment of lesions with formulations without Phytofix showed an opposite trend (+14.6) with the difference between the treatments reaching statistical significance.

The inventors had previously observed that, over time (without treatment), the average number of dermal papillae in age spots tended to increase over 5 years by 18.7 (Pollefliet, C. et al. Morphological characterization of solar lentigines by in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy: a longitudinal approach. Int J Cosmet Sci. Apr: 35(2): 149-55, 2013).

Previous studies by the inventors indicated that Phytofix, used in formulations in a range of from about 0.001 wt. % to about 2 wt. %, demonstrated efficacy in improving the morphology of the basement membrane in hyperpigmented lesions (results not shown).

It was appreciated that each of the formulations demonstrating positive effects on the morphology of the basement membrane of hyperpigmented lesions also contained sodium ribonucleic acid in addition to Phytofix. However, since no improvement of the morphology of the basement membrane was seen using a formulation containing sodium ribonucleic acid but no Phytofix, the inventors concluded that the positive effects on the morphology were not caused by sodium ribonucleic acid (results not shown).

The inventors also observed that, in some cases, formulations containing a classic whitening active, for example, UP302, (i.e., dimethoxytolyl propyl resorcinol, derived from the Dianella ensifolia plant) or molasses extract, in combination of with Phytofix, resulted in the disappearance of the positive effects on the morphology of the solar lentigines

demonstrated by formulations containing Phytofix but no classic whitening actives (results not shown). On the other hand, treatment with certain formulations containing Phytofix with a combination of known whitening actives, including Yeast extract XP, Black strap molasses, Phytoclar II, AS-G (ascorbyl glucoside) powder and Trametes versicolor, or with formulations containing Phytofix with a combination of known whitening actives, including Morus nigra (mulberry) root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis extract and Vitis vinifera (grape) extract, demonstrated improved morphology of the basement membrane (results not shown). However, treatment with formulations containing these known whitening actives in addition to the Phytofix did not result in any greater improvement in morphology compared to the use of formulations containing Phytofix without the known whitening actives. The data indicate that, generally, topical formulations 1, 2 and 3, containing Phytofix, were able to improve the morphology of the basement membrane in solar lentigines, while formulations 4 and 5, which did not contain Phytofix, were not capable of doing so. Moreover, skin treatments with formulations containing the material Phytofix, in the absence of traditional whitening actives, had positive effects on the deformed basement membrane in the skin of age spots and tended to normalize this deformation. This effect was not observed when treating hyperpigmented lesions with formulations lacking Phytofix. Furthermore, the addition of some traditional whitening actives to Phytofix-containing formulations had no apparent effect on the capability of Phytofix to effect a positive change in the morphology of the basement membrane of age spots, while the combination of other traditional whitening actives in Phytofix-containing formulations appeared to neutralize the positive effect of Phytofix on morphology. There remains a need to investigate the incompatibilities to avoid mixing ingredients in the formulations which may negatively impact the efficacy of the Phytofix to improve the morphology of the basement membrane of hyperpigmented lesions.

2. Effect of differentiation stimulating actives on skin tone and morphology of dermal papillae in solar lentigines

In this study, various formulations (shown in Table 2, below) were evaluated for their capabilities in improving uneven skin tone and/or morphology of dermal papilla in solar lentigines. The solar lentigines of each of three panelist groups were treated with either (1) a differentiation stimulating formula containing the following actives: salicylic acid (antiproliferative function), resveratrol (Sirt- 1 activation function), MPC (migration function), Sclareolide (i.e., Clary Sage fermented extract, titrated in Sclareolide - maturation function) and Phytofix (skin barrier recovery function), or (2) the differentiation stimulating formula followed by a whitening formula containing the following known whitening actives: Yeast extract XP, Trametes Extract, AS-G powder, Phytoclar II; Nivitol UP-302, and Viapure licorice, or (3) with a control formulation, i.e., a base or vehicle for water soluble actives.

Table 2

Formula

6 7

INGREDIENT NAME WEIGHT PERCENT

RESVERATROL 85% 0.100000

TRIS AMINO ULTRA PC 0.200000 0.645000

TROMETHAMINE

SALICYLIC ACID USP (POWDER) 0.250000

MPC 0.500000

PHYTOFIX 1.000000

CLARY SAGE FERMENTED EXTRACT 0.050000

SIMULGEL 600

A CR YLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLO YLDIMETHYL TAURATE 1.500000 1.500000 1.500000

COPOL YMERJWA TER AQUA \EA U/ISOHEXADECANE/

POLYSORBATE 80

CARBOWAX 300 SENTRY 1.000000 1.000000 1.000000

PEG-6

ARISTOFLEX AVC

AMMONIUM ACRYLO YLDIMETHYL TAURA TE/VP 0.600000 0.600000 0.600000

COPOLYMER

TWEEN 20 L 0.500000 0.500000 0.500000

POLYSORBATE 20

BARGUARD CP/ DIOCIDE

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL/PHENOXYETHANOL/HEXYLENE 0.300000 0.300000 0.300000

GLYCOL

PHENOXETOL 0.290000 0.290000 0.300000

PHENOXYETHANOL

HYALURONIC ACID, SODIUM SALT, POWD 0.100000 0.100000 0.100000

SODIUM HYALURONATE

EDETA BD/ NA2 0.050000 0.050000 0.050000

DISODIUM EDTA

KF - 6017 1.500000 1.500000 1.500000

PEG-10 DIMETHICONE

PERMETHYL 99A 2.000000 2.000000 2.000000

ISODODECANE

DM - FLUID A-6CS 5.000000 5.000000 5.000000

DIMETHICONE

1,3 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 6.000000 6.000000 6.007000

BUTYLENE GLYCOL

GRANSIL IDS GEL 10.000000 10.000000 10.000000

POLYSILICONE- 11 /ISODODECANE

DEIONIZED WATER 48.160000 46.060000 33.063976

PURIFIED WATER

GRANSIL DMDM-25 23.000000 23.000000

GRANSIL TMG-5 JH GEL

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE/DIMETHICONE/POLYSILICONE- 23 000000

11/CHOLESTEROL/SQUALANE/GL YCYRRHETINIC

ACID/TRITICUM VULGARE (WHEAT) GERM

CATEZOMES SA-20 JPN

WATER/SALICYLIC ACID/SODIUM HYDROXIDE/BUTYLENE 2.500000 GLYCOL/DI-C12-18 ALKYL DIMONIUM CHLORIDE Table 2 - Continued

Formula

6 7 8

INGREDIENT NAME WEIGHT PERCENT

BIO-CONVERTED WHITE BIRCH7E.L.

ECLUSTERED WATER (-)^'AQUA^'EAU DE-STRUCTUREE (-)

0.500000 /DECLUSTERED WATER (+)\AQUA\EAU DE-STRUCTUREE

(+)/BETULA ALBA (BIRCH) BARK

EXTRACT/SACCHAROMYCES LYSATE EXTRACT

RICE DEFENSE COMPLEX R

BUTYLENE GL YCOL/WA TER/OR YZA SATLVA (RICE) BRAN 0.500000 EXTRACT

CAFFEINE POWDER 0.200000

CAFFEINE

VITAMIN E, USP, FCC, CODE 0420085 0.200000

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

N-ACETYL-D-GLUCOS AMINE 0.194070

ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE

NIVITOL UP-302 0.180000

DLMETHOXYTOLYL PROPYLRESORCLNOL

VIAPURE LICORICE/18BGLYCYRRHETINIC 0.100000

GLYCYRRHETLNLC ACID

SODIUM RIBONUCLEIC ACID 0.100000

SODIUM RIBONUCLEIC ACID

TETRAHYDROCURCUMINOIDS 0.100000

CURCUMA LONGA (TURMERIC) ROOT EXTRACT

VIAPURE CITRUS 0.030000

CITRUS GRANDIS (GRAPEFRUIT) PEEL EXTRACT

MALT EXTRACT BROTH 214912 0.029410

MALTEXTRACT

FD&C YELLOW NO. 5, 08005 0.000260

YELLOW 5 (C 19140)

XIAMETER AFE-0100 AF EMULSION FG 0.000194

SIMETHICONE

FD&C YELLOW NO. 6, 08006 0.000090

FD&C YELLOW NO. 6

YEAST EXTRACT XP

WATER\AQUA\EAU/YEAST EXTRACTFAEXEXTRALT DE 5.000000 LEVURE

TRAMETES EXTRACT 140080 2.000000

WA TER \AQUA\EA U/TRAMETES EXTRACT

AS-G POWDER 1.800000

ASCORBYL GLUCOS1DE

PHYTOCLAR II BG NEXTGEN

BUTYLENE GLYCOL/SCUTELLARIA BA1CALENS1S ROOT 1.000000 EXTRACT/MORUS BOMBYC1S ROOT EXTRACT

100.000000 100.000000 100.000000

Formula 6 was prepared as follows:

Sequence 1 : Add 10% Hyaluronic acid to support kettle, and side sweep on 8RPM.

Sequence 2: Add 0.5% Tween 20 to support kettle. Sequence 3: Add 23% Gransil TMG-5 to support kettle, and mix at 2500RPM, add 10% Gransil IDS to support kettle,

add 5%> DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 2% Permethyl to support kettle, and adjust temperature to 25°C.

Sequence 4: Add 1.5% KF-6017 to support kettle, and mix until uniform and smooth.

Sequence 5: Add 38.35% deionized water to main kettle, and heat main kettle at a setting of 50°C,

mix at 481RPM, then side sweep at 5RPM,

add 0.05% EDETA to main kettle, and then turn off the heat.

Sequence 6: Cool main kettle to 25°C, add 0.6% Aristoflex to main kettle, and then add contents of support kettle.

Prepare premix A (sequence 7) by adding 3% Butylene glycol to a vessel, heating to 70°C, adding 0.2% Phenoxetol, then adding 0.3% Barguard cp, followed by adding 1% Carbowax 30, and mixing at 2000RPM.

Sequence 7: Add premix A to main kettle.

Sequence 8: Add 1.5% Simulgel 600 to main kettle and mix until uniform. Formula 7 was prepared as follows:

Sequence 1 : Add 10% Hyaluronic acid to support kettle, and side sweep at 8RPM. Sequence 2: Add 0.5% Tween 20 to support kettle.

Sequence 3: Add 23% Gransil TMG-5 to support kettle, and mix at 2500RPM, add 10% Gransil IDS to support kettle,

add 5%> DM-fluid to support kettle,

add 2% Permethyl to support kettle, and adjust temperature to 25°C.

Sequence 4: Add 1.5% KF-6017 to support kettle, and mix until uniform and smooth. Sequence 5: Add 35.25% deionized water to main kettle,

heat to 50°C,

mix at 481RPM, then side sweep at 5RPM,

add 0.05% EDETA to main kettle,

add 0.5% MPC to main kettle,

add 1% Phytofix to main kettle, and then turn heat off. Sequence 6: Cool main kettle to 25°C; then add 0.6% Aristoflex to main kettle; and then add contents of support kettle to main kettle.

Prepare premix A (sequence 7) by adding 3% Butylene glycol to a vessel, heating to 70°C, then adding the following ingredients, one at a time: 0.2% Phenoxetol, 0.3% Barguard cp, 1% Carbowax 30, 0.25% Salicylic acid, 0.05% Clary sage, and 0.1% Resveratrol, and mixing at 2000RPM.

Sequence 7: Add premix A to main kettle.

Prepare premix B (sequence 8) by combining 1% deionized water and 0.2% Tris amino ultra in a vessel.

Sequence 8: Add premix B to main kettle.

Sequence 9: Add 1.5% Simulgel 600 to main kettle and mix until uniform.

Formula 8 was prepared as follows:

Prepare premix B (sequence 1 1) by introducing 3% Butylene glycol to a vessel and heating at 70°C, followed by mixing at 150RPM, adding 0.3% Barguard CP, then adding 0.1% Tetrahydrocurcuminoids.

Prepare premix C (sequence 12) by introducing 3% Butylene glycol to a vessel, adding 1% Carobowax, heating to 70°C, mixing at 2000RPM, adding 0.18% Nivitol UP-302, then adding 0.1% Viapure licorice, and then adding 0.03% Viapure Citrus.

Prepare premix D (sequence 13) by introducing 4% deionized water to a vessel, mixing at 150RPM, adding 1.8% AS-G powder and then adding 0.645% Tris amino ultra. Sequence 1 : Add 10% Hyaluronic acid to support kettle and side sweep on 15RPM.

Sequence 2: Add 0.5% Tween 20 to support kettle.

Sequence 3: Add 23% Gransil TMG-5 to support kettle and mix at 2500RPM.

add 10% Gransil IDS to support kettle,

add 5%> DM-fluid to support kettle.

add 2% Permethyl to support kettle,

adjust temperature to 25°C. Sequence 4: Add 1.5% KF-6017 to support kettle and mix until uniform and smooth. Sequence 5: Add 17.46% deionized water (53-0061) to main kettle,

heat to 30°C.

when temperature reaches 30°C, mix at 530RPM, then side sweep at 12RPM, add 0.2% Caffeine to main kettle,

add 0.05% EDETA to main kettle,

add 0.1% sodium ribonucleic acid to main kettle,

turn heat off, and cool to 25°C.

Sequence 6: When temperature of main kettle reaches 25°C, add 5% Yeast extract XP to main kettle,

add 2% yeast extract NAG to main kettle,

add 0.5% Rice defense complex to main kettle,

add 1% Phytoclar to main kettle, and

add 0.5% bio-converted white birch to main kettle.

Sequence 7: Add 2% Trametes extract to main kettle, mix at 1800RPM until uniform, then side sweep at 10RPM.

Sequence 8: Add 0.6% Aristoflex to main kettle.

Sequence 9: Add 0.2% Phenoxetol to main kettle, then add contents of support kettle to main kettle.

Sequence 10: Add 0.2% Vitamin E to main kettle.

Sequence 1 1 : Add premix B to main kettle.

Sequence 12: Add premix C to main kettle.

Sequence 13 : Add premix D to main kettle, mix at 830RPM until uniform, then side sweep at 12RPM.

Sequence 14: Add 2.5% Catezomes to main kettle.

Sequence 15: Add 1.5% Simulgel 600 to main kettle.

Sequence 16: Add 0.026% FD&C Yellow no. 5 to main kettle, then add 0.009% FD&C Yellow no. 6 to main kettle.

Forty-six volunteers were enrolled in a four month clinical study. Only panelists with clear visible age spots on their hands were permitted to participate. The mean age of the panelists was 62 years with the minimum and maximum ages being 44 and 82, respectively.

All volunteers were Caucasian and exhibited Fitzpatrick skin type II or III. The test area was a solar lentigo on the dorsal side of each of both hands. Panelists with any kind of dermatological disorder or hypersensitivity or allergy to ethanol and/or cosmetic products were excluded from the study. Written informed consent was obtained from each volunteer before entrance into the study.

The first treatment group included 14 panelists (two age spots/panelist for a total of 28 age spots). Each panelist self-treated one age spot on each hand with a vehicle formulation, Formula 6, which served as a control. The second group of 16 panelists (two age spots/panelist for a total of 32 age spots) self-treated one age spot on each hand with a differentiation stimulating formula, Formula 7. For the third group, two formulations were provided: the differentiation stimulating formula, Formula 7, and a whitening formula, Formula 8. The 16 volunteers in this group (two age spots/panelist for a total of 32 age spots) were asked to apply the differentiation stimulating formula on one age spot on each hand, and then, after five minutes, to apply the whitening formula on top of the differentiation stimulating formula. In all three groups, panelists applied the formulation(s) twice a day for 4 months. Each panelist self-treated both hands. The panelists applied the formulation liberally on the entire dorsal surface of the hand, twice a day for 4 months: in the morning and the evening. Panelists were instructed to not use any other cosmetic products on their hands during the clinical study. On each hand, one age spot was selected by the investigator, and that one age spot was evaluated monthly.

At the beginning of the clinical study (i.e., prior to treatment) and after 1, 2, 3 and 4 months, dermoscopic pictures were taken of the age spots with a dermoscopic camera (Dermalite Pro II connected to Olympus SP-510UZ digital camera). With a Dermalite Pro II dual-polarization dermatoscope, pictures of the age spots were taken in cross-polarized mode. Cross-polarized light emphasizes skin's deeper pigmentation.

These pictures were used for the calculation of contrast between the hyperpigmented spot and the surrounding skin. The pictures were transformed into black and white pictures from which grey values were calculated. Color contrast, defined as the grey value of the surrounding skin minus the grey value at the age spot, was calculated for each spot.

The hyperpigmented spots were also evaluated by in vivo RCM with the Vivascope (Lucid 1500) to allow real-time visualization of the skin in its native state. The analysis was concentrated on the confocal images taken at the basement membrane. From these images, the number of dermal papillae per mm² was counted and the circularity index of the

hyperrefractive dermal papillae was calculated. The circularity index is a shape factor that refers to the alignment pattern of hyperrefractive basal cells to a circle. According to this equation, the circularity index of a perfect circle equals 100; a lower index corresponds to a more pronounced deviation from a circle and indicates a deformation of the alignment pattern of hyperrefractive cells such as commonly seen in solar lentigines. The thickness of the epidermis was also calculated.

After 1 and 4 months treatment, skin auto-fluorescence (i.e., skin's endogenous fluorescence) was measured using the Skinskan (Horiba) in order to evaluate epidermal proliferation

reflectance 350-700nm). The epidermal proliferation data were corrected with the corresponding reflectance data measured at 350nm. Using fluorescence spectroscopy, the effect of varying excitation and emission can be examined. Some in vivo fluorescence bands can be attributed to specific amino acids or protein modifications. The fluorescence band attributed to tryptophan

had been proposed as a marker for epidermal proliferation or cell renewal.

Time dependent effects were evaluated using repeated measures ANOVA calculations. Significant differences between time-points were additionally determined by a post hoc Tuckey test for multiple comparisons. The Vivascope data were statistically evaluated using a paired Student's i test.

The results are graphically represented in Figures 3, 4A, 4B, 5, 6-8, 9A, 9B and 10. Figure 3 represents the skin color contrast data between the solar lentigo and surrounding skin obtained as a result of the treatments. Treatment with the differentiation stimulating formulation resulted in decreases in contrast of 2% (p=0.96), 6% (p=0.24), 20% (p<10^~4) and 26% (p<10^~4) after 1, 2, 3 and 4 months, respectively, compared with untreated skin. When the differentiation stimulating treatment was combined with the whitening treatment a statistically significant decrease was already observed after 1 month treatment. This combination treatment resulted in decreases in contrast of 7% (p=0.02), 17% (p=0.0001), 19% (p=0.0001) and 28% (p=0.0001) after 1, 2, 3 and 4 months, respectively. No changes in contrast were observed over the same period of time as a result of treatment with the vehicle formulation.

Dermoscopic pictures of solar lentigines treated with the differentiation stimulating formula are shown in Figure 4A. The set on top shows the typical improvement in color contrast after treatment, the bottom show the maximum improvement that was found in the current test set-up.

Dermoscopic pictures of solar lentigines treated with the differentiation stimulation formula followed by the whitening formulation are shown in Figure 4B. The set on top shows the typical improvement in color contrast after treatment, the bottom show the maximum improvement that was found in the current test set-up. For both treatments, one example is provided which shows the average improvement and another example is provided which demonstrates the maximum improvement. For the combination treatment, significance was already reached after 1 month treatment, so there was a faster decrease in color contrast as compared with treatment with the differentiation stimulation formula alone.

The morphology of the dermal papillae in solar lentigines (i.e., the circularity index and the number of dermal papillary rings) was investigated using RCM (Vivascope). The results for the circularity index are given in Figure 5. After four months treatment with the differentiation stimulating formulation, a statistically significant increase in the circularity index was observed which indicated an improvement of the basement membrane. As the circularity index of a perfect circle equals 100, a lower index corresponds to a more pronounced deviation from a circle. The circularity index of the dermal papillae of non- lesional skin was found to be around 92 (data not shown).

For the vehicle and the combination treatment groups, no changes in circularity index of the dermal papillae were seen after 4 months treatment.

Figure 6 depicts examples of RCM (Vivascope) images recorded at dermal-epidermal interface of solar lentigines. These images represent the average and maximum improvement after 4 months treatment with the differentiation stimulating formulation.

As shown in Figure 7, a statistically significant decrease in the number of dermal papillae after 4 months treatment, compared with the pre-treatment level, was observed in the group treated with the formulation containing the differentiation stimulating actives as well as in the group treated with both the formulation containing the differentiation stimulating actives and the whitening formulation. The number of dermal papillae in non-lesional skin was observed at about 20 papillae per mm² (not shown).

RCM (Vivascope) images taken at the dermal-epidermal interface, as shown in Figure 8, represent the average and maximum decreases in papillary rings after treatment for four months with the differentiation stimulating formula.

The recorded Vivascope images were further used for the quantification of the epidermal thickness. As shown in Figure 9A, after four months of treatment with the differentiation stimulating formula, a statistically significant increase in epidermal thickness (stratum corneum excluded) was observed. In addition, a thickening of the stratum corneum was found as indicated in Figure 9B. No differences were found after treatment with the vehicle or the combination treatment.

Skin auto-fluorescence (measured at 295/345nm) results are shown in Figure 10. The signal at these wavelengths is associated with tryptophan, a marker for the epidermal proliferation. Treatment with the differentiation stimulating formula resulted in a statistically significant decrease in epidermal proliferation after 4 months. No changes were found with the other treatments.

Treatment with the differentiation stimulating formulation over four months resulted in improved the visible appearance and morphology of solar lentigines. When a whitening formulation containing classic whitening ingredients was applied 5 minutes after the application of the differentiation stimulating formula a similar improvement in skin tone was noticed after 4 months treatment. Nevertheless, the combination treatment was somewhat less effective in improving the basement membrane compared with use of the differentiation stimulating formula alone. Although fewer dermal papillary rings were counted, no improvement could be detected in circularity index.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A method of identifying a material having an efficacy for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented skin lesion and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented skin lesion without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis, said method comprising:

(b) after an interval of time, observing whether the composition has effected at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae, in a basal layer of epidermis in the hyperpigmented lesion of skin.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the interval of time is at least about one month.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein the interval of time is at least about two months.

4. The method of claim 1, wherein the interval of time is at least about three months.

5. The method of claim 1, wherein the interval of time is at least about four months.

6. The method of claim 1, wherein the effect of the composition on inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes is evaluated using Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM).

7. The method of claim 1, wherein the effect of the composition on stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes is evaluated using Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM).

8. The method of claim 1, wherein the effect of the composition on improvement in compressive deformation of dermal papillae is evaluated using Reflectance Confocal Microscopy (RCM).

9. A method for lightening skin, comprising applying to skin in need of said lightening, a topical composition comprising at least one active which effects at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and improving compressive deformation of dermal papillae in a basal layer of epidermis in a hyperpigmented lesion of skin, wherein the active enables lightening of the skin in a hyperpigmented lesion relative to skin surrounding the hyperpigmented lesion without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis.

10. The method of claim 9, wherein the topical composition further comprises a skin lightening active which directly affects melanocytes or melanogenesis.

11. An improved topical cosmetic composition for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented skin lesion and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented lesion, said composition comprising at least one first active which directly affects melanocytes or melanogenesis, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle therefor, wherein the improvement comprises including in said composition a second active for effecting at least one of inhibiting proliferation of keratinocytes, stimulating differentiation of keratinocytes, and decreasing compressive deformation of dermal papillae in a basal layer of epidermis in the hyperpigmented lesion of the skin, without directly affecting melanocytes or melanogenesis.

12. A regimen for reducing color contrast between a hyperpigmented lesion of skin and skin surrounding the hyperpigmented lesion, comprising: