WO2015093614A1

WO2015093614A1 - Cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2015093614A1
Application number: PCT/JP2014/083811
Authority: WO
Inventors: Momoko Shimizu; Romain TACHON
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-12-20
Filing date: 2014-12-16
Publication date: 2015-06-25
Also published as: CN105705134A; JP2015120640A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μπι, (ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and (iii) at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can decrease the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles, and the like, can cover skin imperfections, such as pores, spots and wrinkles, and can provide even (homogeneous) skin color tone.

Description

DESCRIPTION

COSMETIC COMPOSITION TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising at least one small size interferential pigment having a beige color, at least one silicone elastomer, and at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity.

BACKGROUND ART

Relief imperfections of the skin, such as pores and wrinkles, are visible because of the contrast between bright areas such as skin ridges and dark areas such as skin pores. Light scattering can decrease this brightness gap and may be achieved by mat and haze effects. A good balance between filler oil absorption capacity and non-volatile oil content may provide a mat effect. Introduction of fillers with light scattering properties may provide a haze effect.

Alternatively, in order to hide the color imperfections on the skin caused by, for example, spots, the quantity of pigments which have strong light scattering and absorption properties may be increased in a cosmetic composition. However, small particles such as pigments should be avoided as they tend to accumulate inside pores and wrinkles, and enhance their visibility. As a conclusion, a cosmetic composition for hiding pores and the like should contain fillers with strong oil absorption capacity, fillers with light scattering properties and preferably low quantity of pigments. However, the above cosmetic composition may not be able to provide, depending on circumstances, sufficient cosmetic effects of decreasing the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles, and the like, covering skin imperfections, and providing homogeneous skin color tone. DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition which can decrease the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles, and the like, can cover skin imperfections, and can provide homogeneous skin color tone. It is preferable that the above cosmetic effects last for a long period of time.

The objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least one interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μιη,

(ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and

(iii) at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The interferential pigment, such as a pearlescent pigment or nacre, may be in the form of a plate, with an aspect ratio of 1 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, and more preferably 10 to 50.

It is preferable that the interferential pigment, such as a pearlescent pigment or nacre, have an average particle size between 1 μηι and 20 μπι, preferably between 1 μηι and 15 μηι, and more preferably between 1 μιη and 10 μηι.

It is preferable that the interferential pigment, such as a pearlescent pigment or nacre, be a composite powder comprising at least one plate type core, preferably composed of mica, talc, alumina, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorphlogopite or a mixture thereof, and at least one coating including at least one metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the said beige pearlescent pigment or nacre comprises at least one plate type core of mica, and at least one coating including mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

The interferential pigment, such as a pearlescent pigment or nacre, may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.3 to 10% and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the silicone elastomer in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of a gel or a powder. The silicone elastomer may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 20%, and more preferably 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the filler having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g be chosen from the group consisting of silica, silica silylates (in particular hydrophobic silica aerogel particles), polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethylmethacrylate, of polymethylmethacrylate/ethylene glycol

dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; perlites; magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m /g and preferably from 600 to 1200 m /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μπι, better still from 1 to 1000 μηι, preferably from 1 to 100 μιη, in particular from 1 to 30 μπι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μπι, better still from 5 to 20 μιη and even better still from 5 to 15 μιη.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and more preferably from 8 to 12 ml/g. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may have a tamped density p ranging from 0.04 to 0.10 g/cm and preferably from 0.05 to 0.08 g/cm . The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be surface-modified by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with INCI name Silica Silylate.

The filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.3% to 15% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one additional coloring material, in particular at least one additional coloring pigment such as metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide, other than the interferential pigment. In this case, the weight ratio of the interferential pigment to the additional pigment may be from 1 : 1 to 1 :20, preferably from 1:1 to 1 :15, more preferably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 10, and even more preferably from 1 :1 to 1 :8. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising a step of applying at least one layer of the above cosmetic composition according to the present invention onto the skin, in particular the skin of the face. In this case, the cosmetic composition may be applied as a make-up product such as a foundation. The cosmetic process may be intended to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular the pores and/or spots, and to make the pore and/or spot hiding effect long lasting.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic use of at least an interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size less than 30 μηι, preferably a beige nacre

comprising at least one plate type core of mica, and at least one coating including mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide with an average particle size preferably between 1 μπι and 10 μπι, as an agent to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular pores and/or spots.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have found that the use of at least one beige

interferential pigment, such as a pearlescent pigment or nacre, with an average particle size of less than 30 μηι can effectively reduce the visibility of skin imperfections, such as pores, and spots, especially reduce the visibility of spots, to provide superior concealing cosmetic effects, with natural effects, in combination with at least one silicone elastomer and at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:

(i) at least one interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μηι, (ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer, and

(iii) at least one filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can decrease the visibility of pores, spots, wrinkles, and the like, can cover skin imperfections, and can provide

homogeneous skin color tone. Thus, the cosmetic process according to the present invention using the above cosmetic composition can provide the above cosmetic effects. The above cosmetic effects can last for a long period of time, for example, throughout the day. In a particular embodiment, the present invention can decrease the visibility of spots.

Hereafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and the cosmetic process according to the present invention will each be described in a detailed manner. [Cosmetic Composition]

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least one interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μηι,

It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be in the form of a liquid cosmetic composition.

The above term 'liquid' means herein that the composition is capable of flowing, even under its own weight, at an ambient temperature such as 25°C, in contrast to a solid composition which does not flow under its own weight.

(Interferential Pigment)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of less than 30 μηι.

The expression "interferential pigment" means a pigment that is capable of producing a color by an interference phenomenon, e.g., between the light reflected by a single layer or a plurality of layers with different refractive indices, in particular a succession of layers of high and low refractive indices.

The interferential pigment may have a multilayer structure which is intended to denote either a structure formed from a substrate covered with a single layer or a structure formed from a substrate covered with at least two or even more consecutive layers. By way of example, an interferential pigment may include more than four layers of different refractive indices. The layers of interferential pigment may optionally surround a core, which may present an optionally plate-like shape.

The interferential pigment may be in the form of a plate, with an aspect ratio of from 1 to 200, preferably from 5 to 100, and more preferably from 10 to 50.

The interferential pigment according to the present invention has an average particle size of less than 30 μηι. The average particle size may be measured as a volume average particle size, with a laser granulometer, for instance the Mastersizer 2000® machine from Malvern and/or the BI90+® machine from Brookhaven Instrument Corporation.

It is preferable that the interferential pigment have an average particle size between 1 μηι and 20 μηι, preferably between 1 μιη and 15 μηι, and more preferably between 1 μηι and 10 μιη. Such a lower size is preferred for an improved effect on pores and spots with natural make-up effect (satin appearance).

It is preferable that the interferential pigment be a composite powder comprising at least one plate type core, preferably composed of mica, talc, alumina, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorphlogopite or a mixture thereof, and at least one coating including at least one metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the beige interferential pigment according to the invention comprises at least one plate type core composed of mica, and at least one coating including at least titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

Nacres (pearlescent pigments) are examples of interferential pigments.

The term "nacres" mean colored particles of any form, which may optionally be iridescent, as produced in the shells of certain mollusks, or which are synthesized, and which exhibit a "pearlescent" coloring effect by optical interference.

As examples of nacres, mention may be made of nacre pigments such as mica titanium dioxide coated with iron oxide, mica titanium dioxide coated with chromium oxide, mica titanium dioxide coated with an organic colorant, in particular of the type mentioned above, and nacre pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be particles of mica on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring substances have been superimposed.

According to the present invention, the interferential pigment, such as a pearlescent pigment, has a beige color.

The beige interferential pigment used according to the present invention may preferably be characterized by:a beige base color with 50<L*<100, 15<C*<35 and 30<h<90 under the CLE. L*C*h color system, on white background; and

- a desaturated reflection color with 50<L*<100, and 0<C*<15 (any value of h) under the CLE. L*C*h color system, on black background, and

preferably an average particle size between 1 μηι to 15 μηι, preferably 1 μπι to 10 μηι. In a more preferred embodiment, the beige interferential pigment used according to the present invention may be characterized by:a beige base color with 70<L*<90, 15<C*<30 and 40<h<80 under the CLE. L*C*h color system, on white background; and

a desaturated reflection color with 50<L*<75, and 2<C*<10 (any value of h) under the CLE. L*C*h color system, on black background, and

preferably an average particle size between 1 μηι to 15 μηι, preferably 1 μηι to 10 μιη.

The color of the interferential pigment can be measured with a colorimeter such as a Nikon Minolta CM-700d colorimeter (standard illuminant D65/10⁰) under the conditions that the white or black background is covered with 0.2 mg/cm of powder (interferential pigment), and the measured color can be characterized using the CLE. L*C*h color system where "L*" stands for lightness, "C*" stands for saturation, and "h" stands for hue. As examples of the interferential pigments, preferably pearlescent pigments or nacres, for the present invention, mention may be made of mica/titanium dioxide/iron oxides such as products in the name of Colorona^® Oriental Beige marketed by Merck, and Prestige^® Soft Beige marketed by Eckart. The interferential pigment such as a pearlescent pigment or nacre can show its base color once applied on bright areas of the skin such as skin ridges and its reflection color once applied on dark areas of the skin such as spots. Thus, the interferential pigment with a beige base color and a desaturated reflection color can provide a natural color coverage while brightening up spots and decreasing their visibility.

The interferential pigment may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.3 to 10% and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (Silicone Elastomer)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises at least one silicon elastomer. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicon elastomer.

The non-emulsifying silicon elastomer may be in form of a gel or a powder.

The Organopolysiloxane elastomer' or 'silicon elastomer' makes it possible to thicken the cosmetic composition according to the present invention and to improve the application properties thereof. It provides a very soft and mattifying feel after application, which is especially advantageous for an application to the skin. This elastomer is either a gel or a soft powder. The expression "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" means a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of

diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by a crosslinking condensation reaction of a

diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of an

organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam. Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of (A) diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to silicon, and of (B) diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence of (C) a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of a

dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of

methylhydrogenpolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C). Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure. Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,

2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

Besides the above-mentioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes,

methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,

dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing

dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,

dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containing

dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of

dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of

methylhydrogenpolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194 009.

Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used more particularly include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC 9040 and DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning, and SFE 839 by the company General Electric.

Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506 by the company Dow Corning.

In an embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are conveyed in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one

hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

As preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in gel form, we may cite the INCI Name products Dimethicone crosspolymers such as DC9041, DC9045 from Dow Corning. In another embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are conveyed in the form of a powder. As preferred non-emulsifying silicone elastomers in powder form, we may cite the INCI Name products Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone crosspolymer such as the DC9506 and DC9701 from Dow Corning and KSG6 from Shin Etsu.

In another embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin. The silicone elastomer powder is spherical and may be obtained especially via the processes for synthesizing

non-emulsifying elastomers described above. The silicone elastomer powder is coated with silicone resin. According to one preferred embodiment, the silicone resin may be a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, the content of which is incorporated herein by way of reference. Such elastomer powders coated with silicone resin are especially sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu. Such powders correspond to the INCI name dimethicone

silsesquioxane crosspolymer, and in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer. As a preferred elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, we may use KSP100.

The silicone elastomer particles may have a JIS- A hardness of less than or equal to 80 (especially ranging from 5 to 80) and preferably less than or equal to 65 (especially ranging from 5 to 65). The JIS-A hardness is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee.

In particular, the silicone elastomer particles may have a mean size ranging from 0.1 to 500 μπι, preferably from 3 to 200 μηι and better still from 10 to 20 μπι. These particles may be of spherical, flat or amorphous shape, and preferably of spherical shape.

This organopolysiloxane elastomer or silicon elastomer is present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention generally in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight of active material (= dry matter), preferably from 1.5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

(Filler having Oil Absorption Capacity Greater than or Equal to 1 ml/g) The cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises a filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g. The above filler according to the present invention has a capacity for absorbing and/or adsorbing an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin). This oil-absorbing filler may also advantageously have a BET specific surface area of greater than or equal to 300 m²/g, preferably greater than 500 m²/g and preferentially greater than 600 m²/g, and especially less than 1500 m²/g. The BET specific surface area is determined according to the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (thus including micropores) of the powder.

The filler under consideration according to the present invention is thus characterized in that it has an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greater than or equal 1.5 ml/g, especially ranging from 1.5 ml/g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from 1.5 ml/g to 15 ml/g. It preferably has an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 2 ml/g, especially ranging from 2 ml/g to 20 ml/g, or even ranging from 2 ml/g to 15 ml/g.

This oil uptake, which corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed and/or adsorbed by the filler, may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. Method for measuring the oil uptake of a filler

The oil uptake of a powder is measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the filler, by measuring the wet point.

An amount m (in grams) of powder of between about 0.5 g and 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the powder) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added drop- wise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of isononyl isononanoate, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the filler using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The oil-uptake filler under consideration according to the present invention may be of organic or inorganic nature.

The filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g may be chosen more particularly from silicas, silica silylates (in particular hydrophobic silica aerogel particles), polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; perlites; magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

A person skilled in the art will select among the above-mentioned materials fillers with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 ml/g and more preferably greater than or equal to 2 ml/g, which are in this respect suitable for use in the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil-absorbing powder may be a powder coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen especially from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid is not limited specifically, and it may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Examples of fillers in accordance with the present invention, i.e., fillers with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5 ml/g, are described below, with their oil uptake value measured according to the protocol described hereinbefore.

Silica powders that may be mentioned include:

porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 3.70 ml/g) by the company Asahi Glass;

MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo;

polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 2.43 ml/g),

silica silylate powders, especially the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow

Corning (oil uptake equal to 10.40 ml/g),

amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 5.50 ml/g), and precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 3.98 ml/g). Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include:

porous polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, porous polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 1.55 ml/g), and

ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Corning (oil uptake equal to 6.56 ml/g). Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include:

nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp 610 by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 2.02 ml/g).

A perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Optimat 1430 OR by the company World Minerals (oil uptake equal to 2.4 ml/g).

A magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 2.14 ml/g).

The oil-absorbing fillers that are particularly preferred are silica and silica silylate powders and more particularly the products sold under the name Sunsphere® H33 by the company Asahi Glass and under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by the company Dow Corning; nylon-6 powder and porous polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient.

In a particular embodiment, the filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g is a hydrophobic silica aerogel (silica silylate).

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used one being supercritical C0₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention may have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 500 to 1500 m /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m /g and better still from 600 to 800 m /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5])₅ ranging from 1 to 1500 μπι, better still from 1 to 1000 μηι, preferably from 1 to 100 μιη, in particular from 1 to 30 μπι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μπι, better still from 5 to 20 μηι and even better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention may have a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μηι, preferably from 5 to 25 μηι, better still from 5 to 20 μηι and even better still from 5 to 15 μπι.

The specific surface area per unit of mass may be determined via the BET

(Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) nitrogen absorption method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The size of the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S_M) ranging from 600 to 800 m /g and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μπι and better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a tamped density p ranging from 0.04 to 0.10 g/cm and preferably from 0.05 to 0.08 g/cm³.

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the tamped density, may be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on a Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 packing motions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tamped density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this instance 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g). According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention may have a specific surface area per unit of volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m /cm , preferably from 10 to 50 m /cm and better still from 15 to 40 m /cm . The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship:

Sv = S_M- p; where p is the tamped density expressed in g/cm and SM is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m /g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the present invention may have an oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.

The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the wet point method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added drop-wise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until a conglomerate of oil and powder has formed. At this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used according to the present invention are preferably of silylated silica type (INCI name: silica silylate).

The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular

dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been

surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7 470 725.

Use will be made in particular of hydrophobic silica aerogels particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups with INCI name Silica silylate. As hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that may be used in the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100. Use will be made more particularly of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have a mean size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g (oil uptake equal to 1080 ml/100 g). Advantageously, the hollow particles in accordance with the present invention are at least partly formed from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, preferably those with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m /g and preferably from 600 to 1200 m /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μηι, better still from 1 to 1000 μπι, preferably from 1 to 100 μηι, in particular from 1 to 30 μηι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μηι, better still from 5 to 20 μηι and even better still from 5 to 15 μιη.

The use of the hollow particles according to the present invention, in particular of

hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, also advantageously makes it possible to improve the residual of the cosmetic properties afforded by the composition on keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The filler(s) with an oil uptake of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g, preferably greater or equal than 1.5 ml/g may be present in a composition according to the present invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 15% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the

composition.

In particular for the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, which are very efficient in term of oil absorption capacity, they may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by total weight of the composition.

(Physiologically Acceptable Medium)

Besides the ingredients described hereinbefore, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the present invention to the skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a dispersion or an emulsion.

A dispersion may be made as an aqueous phase or as an oily phase.

An emulsion may have an oily and/or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W/O) emulsion or a direct (O/W) emulsion, or alternatively a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or 0/W/O). In the case of emulsions, inverse (W/O) emulsions are preferred.

(Aqueous Phase)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water. The water that is suitable for use in the present invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C₄)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C₄)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1 to 80% by weight, especially from 5 to 50% and more particularly from 10 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be anhydrous.

An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 3%, especially less than 2% and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of water. (Fatty Phase)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.

In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1 to 90%, preferably from 5 to 80%, in particular from 10 to 70% and more particularly from 20 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm /min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm ) and per unit of time (minutes).

The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm /min, limits included.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

(Volatile Oils)

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C₈-Ci₆ branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar^® or Permethyl^®.

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10^'6 m²/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,

dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptarnethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and

dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise from 1 to 80% by weight, or even from 5 to 70% by weight, or even from 10 to 60% by weight and especially from 15 to 50% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition. (Non-Volatile Oils)

The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:

hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆ and especially from C₁₈ to C₃₆, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R^COORz, in which R_\ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the chains Ri and R₂ is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl

hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate,

2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,

polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl

tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5^® and Lusplan DD-DA7^® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338,

copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G,

copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer,

fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance

2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;

C₁₂-C₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC^® by Cognis,

oils of high molar mass, in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of oils chosen from:

lipophilic polymers,

linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxylated esters,

aromatic esters,

C₂₄-C₂₈ branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters,

silicone oils,

oils of plant origin, and

mixtures thereof;

optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils, for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752;

silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can contain only volatile compounds. (Additional Coloring Material)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one additional coloring material. The amount of additional coloring material(s) in the composition of the present invention will generally range from 0 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may incorporate at least one additional coloring material chosen from mineral or organic pigments conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof. In a particular embodiment, the composition may comprise additional pigment(s) as coloring material(s). The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and are intended for coloring and/or opacifying the resulting film.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of metal oxides, such as titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides; ferric blue; manganese violet; ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. According to one particular mode of the present invention, the mineral pigments will be chosen from iron oxides and titanium oxides, and mixtures thereof. It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of sericite brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30. The colorant may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type such as silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP 0 542 669, EP 0 787 730, EP 0 787 731 and WO 96/08537. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can further comprise at least one additional pigment such as metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide, other than the interferential pigment described above. In the case of additional titanium dioxide, the weight ratio of the interferential pigment to the additional pigment may be from 1:1 to 1:20, preferably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 15, and more preferably from 1 : 1 to 1:10.

(Fillers)

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one filler.

The filler may be of organic or mineral nature, making it possible especially to give it an additional matt-effect or covering properties, and/or improved stability with regard to exudation and migration-resistance properties after application.

The term "filler" should be understood to mean colorless or white solid particles of any shape which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. These particles, of mineral or organic nature, can give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

The fillers used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the present invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules.

Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned include polyethylene powder or polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, lauroyllysine, hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl from Toshiba), natural or synthetic micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400^® or Plastic Powder D-800^® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.

(Additives)

In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one ingredient chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, oils, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, resins, thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention such that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not thereby affected.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be in the form of a skin makeup product, in particular a foundation, a hot-cast foundation product, a body makeup product, a concealer, an eyeshadow or a lipstick. It may be in the form of an anhydrous gel, in the form of a stick or wand, or in the form of a soft paste.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may be a care composition, in particular an anti-sun composition.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a fluid primer or a fluid foundation. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion.

[Cosmetic Process] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention comprises a step of applying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention as described above onto the skin, in particular the skin of the face. In the cosmetic process according to the present invention, the cosmetic composition may be applied as a make-up product such as a foundation. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be applied as a makeup product. In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic process according to the present invention is intended to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular pores and/or spots, and advantageously to make the pore and/or spot hiding effect long lasting.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.

However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[Example 1 and Comparative Example 1] The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 , shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the ingredients to form an oil phase shown in Table 1 together and heating to 60-80°C until wax is melted, dispersing the pigments and fillers inside the oil phase then proceeding to emulsification by adding the ingredients to form an aqueous phase shown in Table 1.

Table 1

The pearlescent pigment (Mica-Titanium dioxide-Iron oxide) was a plate type interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size of about 8 μ^ηα.

The oil absorption capacity of the silica silylate was about 10 ml/g. The cosmetic compositions according to Example 1 (with mica/titanium dioxide/iron oxide) and Comparative Example 1 (with titanium-dioxide) were tested by expert evaluations wherein the following cosmetic effects were evaluated: pore hiding, spot hiding, overall coverage, and color homogeneity. The test consisted in the application of 0.1 g of each cosmetic composition on half the face of 10 different expert panelists to see the differences between the two cosmetic compositions.

The results are presented in Table 2 below.

Table 2

++: Very Good

+: Good

+/-: Average

-: Poor

The above test results show that the cosmetic composition according to Example 1 exhibited better cosmetic effects in terms of pore hiding and spot hiding, as well as overall coverage, color homogeneity, and overall natural look, than Comparative Example 1. Especially, in terms of "overall natural look", Example 1 achieved more natural makeup finish without causing unnatural whitish finish. The cosmetic compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were also tested by instrumental evaluation wherein the following cosmetic effects were evaluated: spot color, spot density and spot area. The test consisted in the application of 0.1 g of each cosmetic composition on the face of 10 different panelists; the color and the area of the spots before and after the above application on the face were measured by a video camera under diffused light condition, and the measured color was characterized using the CLE. L*C*h color system where "L*" stands for lightness, "C*" stands for saturation, and "h" stands for hue.

The results are presented i Table 3 below. Table 3

++: Significant

+: Tendency

Not Significant

The term "spot density" in Table 3 means the number of spots/unit area of skins.

The above test results show that the cosmetic composition according to Example 1 exhibited significantly better brightening effects on spots and tendency to decrease the size of spots, than Comparative Example 1. It is clear from the above results that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can decrease the visibility of pores and spots, can cover skin imperfections, and can provide homogeneous skin color tone. The above cosmetic effects can last for a long period of time. Similar results are obtained when the Colorona^® Oriental Beige is replaced by Prestige^® Soft Beige interferential pigment.

Claims

A liquid cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

(i) at least one interferential pigment having a beige color and an average

particle size of less than 30 μιη,

(ii) at least one silicone elastomer, preferably a non-emulsifying silicone

elastomer, and

The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , wherein the beige interferential pigment is in the form of a plate, with an aspect ratio of 1 to 200, preferably 5 to 100, and more preferably 10 to 50.

The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the beige interferential pigment has an average particle size between 1 μηι and 20 μηι, preferably between 1 μηι and 15 μηι, and more preferably between 1 μηι and 10 μτχι.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the beige interferential pigment is a beige nacre comprising at least one plate type core, preferably composed of mica, talc, alumina, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, synthetic fluorphlogopite or a mixture thereof, and at least one coating including at least one metal oxide, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or a mixture thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to Claim 4, wherein the beige nacre comprises at least one plate type core of mica, and at least one coating including mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the interferential pigment is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.3 to 10% and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of a gel or a powder.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 20%, and more preferably 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the filler having an oil absorption capacity of greater than or equal to 1 ml/g is chosen from the group consisting of silica, silica silylates (in particular hydrophobic silica aerogel particles), polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethylmethacrylate, of polymethylmethacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl mefhacrylate copolymer; perlites; magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to Claim 9, wherein hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500

2 2

m /g and preferably from 600 to 1200 m /g, and a size expressed as the mean volume diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 μπι, better still from 1 to 1000 μπι, preferably from 1 to 100 μπι, in particular from 1 to 30 μιη, more preferably from 5 to 25 μηι, better still from 5 to 20 μιη and even better still from 5 to 15 μηι.

The cosmetic composition according to Claim 9 or 10, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are surface-modified by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with INCI name Silica Silylate.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , wherein the filler having an oil absorption capacity greater than or equal to 1 ml/g is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.3% to 15% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises at least one additional pigment, preferably titanium dioxide, other than the interferential pigment.

The cosmetic composition according to Claim 13, wherein the weight ratio of the interferential pigment to the additional pigment is from 1 :1 to 1 :20, preferably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 15, more preferably from 1 : 1 to 1 : 10, and even more preferably from 1 :1 to 1 :8.

A cosmetic process comprising a step of applying at least one layer of the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, onto the skin, in particular the skin of the face.

The cosmetic process according to Claim 15, wherein the cosmetic composition is applied as a make-up product such as a foundation.

The cosmetic process according to Claim 15 or 16, intended to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular pores and/or spots, and to make the pore and/or spot hiding effect long lasting.

Cosmetic use of at least an interferential pigment having a beige color and an average particle size less than 30 μηι, preferably a beige nacre, comprising at least one plate type core of mica, and at least one coating including mixture of titanium dioxide and iron oxide with an average particle size preferably between 1 μιη and 10 μηι, as an agent to decrease the visibility of skin imperfections, in particular pores and/or spots.