CN109745234B - Cosmetic with color metal film effect - Google Patents
Cosmetic with color metal film effect Download PDFInfo
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- CN109745234B CN109745234B CN201711091320.2A CN201711091320A CN109745234B CN 109745234 B CN109745234 B CN 109745234B CN 201711091320 A CN201711091320 A CN 201711091320A CN 109745234 B CN109745234 B CN 109745234B
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic composition comprising: a first composition intended to be applied to the skin to form at least one layer, called first layer, and a second composition intended to act on part or all of said first layer, the first composition comprising an aqueous solvent, at least one black dye and at least one film-forming agent, at least one film-forming agent representing from 10% to 45% of the total weight of said first composition, said second composition comprising at least one uncolored interference color pigment comprising a transparent substrate covered with at least one layer of material called cover, said cover being titanium dioxide.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a first cosmetic composition, a cosmetic kit comprising the first composition and a second composition, a multi-layered cosmetic product and a cosmetic kit.
Background
Cosmetic compositions are colored by means of colorants, such as soluble dyes, pigments based on metal oxides, for example iron oxide, or interference pigments by means of metal oxide-coated mica-based platelet-shaped substrates, such as titanium oxide, iron oxide, etc., to produce satin, pearlescent, metallic lustre effects.
These interference pigments are visually attractive. They reflect, diffuse, transmit and absorb incident light of various wavelengths. Each color has its own wavelength that can be resolved by the human eye. The eyes perceive the reflected light, but the reflected light they perceive may be affected by the transmitted light.
In general, the effect of these interference pigments is inherent to their substrate and cladding materials, which have some specific properties depending on their chemical nature, thickness and refractive index. The substrate materials used in the cosmetic industry include mica, synthetic mica, silica, aluminum, borosilicate glass, polyethylene terephthalate, and the like. The optical effect obtained after coating these substrates with a metal oxide of high refractive index is an interference phenomenon based on the difference in refractive index between air, the coating layer and the substrate plate. The interference color produced depends on the thickness of the cladding layer. The size of the material also has an effect on the perception. Small particles produce a satin, silky effect, while large particles produce a sparkling effect. More complex materials, such as pearlescent pigments with a "chameleon" effect, are formed of layered structures of different thicknesses, which produce a change in color depending on the viewing angle.
Depending on the metal oxide used for the coating, these interference pigments may be colored or uncolored. The uncolored interference color pigment is coated with titanium dioxide as a coating material, and the colored interference color pigment is usually coated with colored iron oxide or a composite of colored iron oxide and other metal oxide materials. The uncolored interference color pigment coated by the titanium dioxide serving as the coating material can generate rich and various pure interference color colors and has high transparency. Its high transparency can impart depth and naturalness to the color. However, a disadvantage of such uncolored interference color pigments is their transparency which makes it possible to obtain cosmetics which, if used alone in cosmetic formulations, have no or poor hiding properties. Furthermore, although uncolored interference color pigments are very rich in color, their color intensity is generally not sufficiently intense in cosmetic formulations.
In order to overcome these problems, for example, a pigment having hiding power such as iron oxide or carbon black and an uncolored interference color pigment are used in combination in a formulation. However, the uncolored interference color pigment is also covered with the non-transparent pigment, and the color expression ability of the uncolored interference color pigment cannot be improved.
To enhance the interference color of the interference color pigment, we can also match it with a dye or its lake, which has a very bright color. However, dyes and their lakes often have problems with stability themselves or cause formulation instability due to their physicochemical properties. Also, cosmetic regulations in different countries limit the amount of dyes that can be used in cosmetics, especially in the eye area, due to irritation and toxicity problems of the dyes.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention aims to overcome the known disadvantages of uncolored interference color pigments, such as their low hiding power and low color intensity in cosmetic formulations.
The present invention also seeks to provide, in at least one embodiment of the invention, a cosmetic effect of a coloured metallic pearlescent appearance.
The present invention also aims to provide, in at least one embodiment, an easy-to-use, natural, comfortable cosmetic effect.
The invention makes it possible to obtain various, bright, intense, metallic pearlescent colours without the use of organic or inorganic dyes.
To this end, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for application to the skin, referred to as first composition, comprising an aqueous solvent, at least one black pigment and at least one film-forming agent; at least one film-forming agent accounts for 10-45% of the total weight of the first composition.
In fact, the inventors have found that the first composition according to the present invention exhibits an excellent base effect based on the second cosmetic composition for applying an uncolored interference color pigment as a substrate. In addition to the cosmetic permanence and the hiding effect brought about by the base, it is based on a second cosmetic composition which is capable of priming uncolored interference color pigments to produce a surprisingly strong colored metallic effect.
Accordingly, the present invention also relates to a skin cosmetic kit comprising:
-a first composition intended to be applied to the skin to form at least one layer, called first layer, and
-a second composition intended to be applied on all or part of the area of said first layer,
the first composition comprises:
-a water-soluble solvent, which is,
at least one black pigment and
-at least one film forming agent, at least one film forming agent representing from 10% to 45% of the total weight of the first composition,
the second composition comprises at least one uncolored interference color pigment comprising a transparent substrate coated with at least one layer of material called a coating, the coating being titanium dioxide.
Detailed Description
First composition
The cosmetic composition, also referred to as first composition, is suitable for making up the skin, more preferably for making up the upper and/or lower eyelids, according to the invention. The first composition is more suitable for use as a cosmetic base.
The first composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming agent in an amount of from 10% to 45% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, most preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the first composition. This high concentration of film-forming agent in combination with the light-absorbing black pigment results in a very high light absorption by the first composition. This light absorption ability of the first composition allows the uncolored interference color pigment to produce a high-intensity colored metallic effect when the second composition containing the uncolored interference color pigment is applied thereon.
The amount of light absorption of the first composition is measured by the luminance (L) in CIELAB space. According to a preferred embodiment, the first composition has a brightness of less than 27.5, preferably less than 25, more preferably less than 20, and most preferably less than 15.
Measurement of luminance in the CIELAB space (more specifically, under the recommendations of the international commission on illumination, according to recommendation 15, 2004, in the CIELAB76 space) is a technique commonly used by those skilled in the art. It can use any type of colorimeter or spectrophotometer to effect the measurement, such as a color reader (colorcat Nano) device. The brightness measurement may be performed by applying the first composition to an artificial skin panel (e.g., BIOSKIN PLATE 10EUROPE FACE skin panel available from Beaulax) or to a white area of a contrast card, such as Chart 2810 available from BYK.
The light absorbing capacity of the first composition is also characterized by opacity. Opacity is measured by measuring the brightness (L) on black and white areas on a contrast card where the composition is preferably applied by means of a strip applicator, such as the strip applicator 1222782 sold by BYK. By applying a black area (L) zone noire ) Luminance above divided by white area (L) zone blanche ) The luminance above is multiplied by 100 (opacity (%) = (L) Black area /L White area ) X 100) to calculate opacity. 100% opacity means that the coverage is complete. According to one embodiment, the opacity of the first composition is greater than 75%, more preferably 80%, and most preferably 85%.
In addition, the first composition has high adhesiveness, thereby enabling the second composition to be better adsorbed on the first composition.
The at least one film former of the first composition may be selected from the group consisting of acetyl tributyl citrate, acrylate polymers or derivatives thereof, acrylamide polymers or derivatives thereof, cellulose or derivatives thereof, chitosan or derivatives thereof, rosin, resins, gums, polyquaterniums and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of acrylate polymers and/or acrylate polymer mixtures, most preferably from the group consisting of acrylate copolymers and mixtures of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate copolymers.
The aqueous solvent of the first composition preferably constitutes 1% to 89.5%, more preferably 50% to 85%, of the total weight of the first composition. The solvent is preferably water.
The black pigment intended to absorb light may be any black pigment that may be used in cosmetics. For example, the black pigment may be iron oxide and/or carbon black. The black pigment preferably comprises 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the first composition, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, 1% to 5% by weight or 1% to 4% by weight of the total weight of the first composition. Due to its black character, the black pigment will allow the composition to absorb all light transmitted through the second composition, thereby obtaining maximum effect of the interference color tint reflected out of the different layers of the interference color pigment.
Finally, the first composition may comprise at least one gelling agent, at least one humectant, at least one fragrance, at least one preservative and/or any other active ingredient typical in cosmetics.
The first composition further comprises at least one gelling agent. The at least one gelling agent may be a natural gum, preferably selected from guar gum and xanthan gum, and/or organoclay, preferably from the group consisting of lithium potassium stearate or bentonite.
The first composition is preferably a peelable film. Peelable film means that once applied to the skin, the composition can be peeled away from the skin without the use of a make-up remover.
Second composition
The invention also relates to a second composition.
The second composition comprises at least one uncolored interference color pigment. Uncolored interference color pigments include a transparent substrate, such as mica, which is coated with at least one layer of material, referred to as a coating, which is titanium dioxide. The cladding material and thickness are selected so that color is produced by the interference effect of light.
It is intended to be applied to a part of the first composition or the whole first composition, thereby forming a very strong color metallic effect.
The second composition may be in the form of a stick or a powder, more preferably a powder, such as loose powder, baked powder and pressed powder.
The second composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable vehicle in addition to the at least one uncolored interference color pigment. It may also include fragrances, preservatives and/or any other active ingredients in cosmetics.
Preferably, the at least one uncolored interference color pigment is an uncolored multilayer interference color pigment. By uncolored multilayer interference color pigment is meant a pigment that produces color solely by interference phenomena between light rays reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive index, in particular a series of high and low refractive index layers that undergo continuous refraction.
The second composition may comprise a single uncolored interference color pigment or several uncolored interference color pigments.
The substrate of the uncolored interference color pigment may be covered on one or more sides with one or more layers of material. This material is called a cladding, which is titanium dioxide.
The at least one uncolored interference color pigment of the second composition may comprise a transparent substrate selected from the group consisting of silica, mica and borosilicate glass.
The substrate may or may not have a flat shape.
The substrate may include natural mica, synthetic mica, silica, borosilicate glass, and the like, transparent materials. The nature of the substrate may be selected according to the desired brightness. For example, for very bright rendering, substrates made of borosilicate glass or synthetic mica may be preferred.
The particle diameter of the uncolored interference color pigment is represented by an average particle diameter (cumulative distribution in particle size distribution curve: 50%), also referred to as D50, in the range of, for example, 1 μm to 2000. Mu.m, more preferably 5 μm to 1000. Mu.m.
The at least one uncolored interference color pigment is present in an amount of from 1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition.
Cosmetic set
The invention also relates to a cosmetic set for the skin, comprising:
-said first composition according to the invention, intended to be applied to the skin, for forming at least one layer, we call the first layer, and
-said second composition according to the invention, intended to be applied to a partial area of said first layer or to all areas of said first layer.
Generally, the skin makeup assembly according to the present invention comprises:
-a first composition intended to be applied to the skin to form at least one layer, called first layer, and
-a second composition intended to be applied to part of the first layer or to all parts of the first layer,
first composition the article comprises
-an aqueous solvent, the solvent being a water-soluble solvent,
at least one black pigment and
-at least one film forming agent, at least one film forming agent representing from 10% to 45% of the total weight of the first composition,
the second composition comprises at least one uncolored interference color pigment comprising a transparent substrate coated with at least one layer of a material of metal oxide, called a coating, the metal oxide coating being titanium dioxide.
The first and second components of the cosmetic kit according to the invention are those described in the preceding paragraph.
Further, the lightness (L) of the first composition of the cosmetic kit is preferably less than 27.5 in CIELAB space. The first composition is preferably used as a cosmetic base. The at least one film former of the first composition is selected from the group consisting of acetyl tributyl citrate, acrylate polymers or derivatives thereof, acrylamide polymers or derivatives thereof, cellulose or derivatives thereof, chitosan or derivatives thereof, rosin, resins, gums, polyquaterniums, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the at least one film forming agent of the first composition accounts for 15-30% of the total weight of the first composition. Still according to a preferred embodiment, the black dye of the first composition comprises 0.5% to 30% of the total weight of the first composition.
One or more layers of the second composition may be applied to all or a portion of the face of the first layer. However, it is preferred to apply only one layer of the second composition on the first composition.
Furthermore, it is preferred that the second composition is applied over the entire first layer as well.
According to a preferred embodiment, the kit according to the invention is a peelable film.
Multi-layer cosmetic product
The invention also relates to a multi-layer cosmetic product for the skin comprising:
at least one layer, referred to as first layer of the first composition according to the invention, and
-at least one layer, referred to according to the invention as second layer of a second composition, applied to part or all of the area of said first layer.
The multilayer product according to the invention is preferably a peelable film.
Cosmetic assembly
The invention also relates to a cosmetic component of the skin comprising:
-said first composition according to the invention and
-said second composition according to the invention.
Cosmetic method
Finally, the invention relates to a skin makeup method comprising:
-applying to the skin at least one layer, according to the invention, called first layer of the first composition;
-applying this layer again on part or all of the first layer of the first composition, this layer being referred to as the first layer of the second composition according to the invention.
The invention will be further illustrated by the following figures and examples. However, these examples and drawings should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention.
Drawings
FIG. 1 schematically illustrates the possible absorption effect of light by the lower layers of a multi-layer cosmetic product;
FIG. 2 schematically illustrates the possible absorption effect of light by the lower layers of a multi-layer cosmetic product;
FIG. 3 schematically illustrates the possible absorption effect of the lower layer of the multilayer cosmetic on light;
figure 4 shows in simplified form the possible absorption of light by the lower layers of the multilayer cosmetic.
Detailed Description
FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of the interaction between an incident light beam and a multilayer product comprising interference color pigments and a black absorbing underlayer;
fig. 2 is a schematic illustration of the interaction between an incident light beam and a multilayer product comprising interference color pigments and a white basecoat.
When an incident light beam 1 comes into contact with the interference pigment 2, one part of the light beam (ray 1) is reflected (ray 4) and the other part (ray 5) is refracted by the interference pigment.
If the lower layer 3 is black (fig. 1), the transmitted light beam (light ray 5) passing through the interference color pigment is absorbed by the black layer.
If the lower layer 3 is white (fig. 2), the transmitted light beam (light ray 5) passing through the interference color pigment is diffused or reflected by the white layer.
Thus, when the lower layer diffuses or reflects light, the perception of the interference color beam is relatively low (fig. 4) because the eye receives the interference beam as well as the scattered or reflected light beam (light ray 6), and when the lower layer is black, the eye perceives a relatively much greater intensity of the interference color beam as it absorbs light (fig. 3).
Color metal film effect eye line
●A first composition:
all the components are added according to the proportion and stirred evenly at room temperature.
Example 1A:
a..... 25% mixture of acrylate copolymer and copolymer of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate
The
The water
Comparative example 1B:
a mixture of an acrylate copolymer and a copolymer of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate
The
The water
Comparative example 1C:
a mixture of an acrylate copolymer and a copolymer of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate
The water
Example 1F:
a..... 25% mixture of acrylate copolymer and copolymer of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate
The
The water
Example 1G:
blend of acrylate copolymer and copolymer of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate
The carbon black, the
The water
Comparative example 1H:
blend of acrylate copolymer and copolymer of acrylate and ethylhexyl acrylate 12.5%
The
The water
● A second composition:
the components are added according to the proportion and mixed evenly.
Example 2-2:
The
Examples 2 to 3:
The
●Comparative exampleI:
The components are added in proportion and mixed evenly.
Acrylate copolymer, and blend of acrylate and copolymer of ethylhexyl acrylate &.. 25 &.. The
The
The water
LAB testing on Artificial skin
Measurements of la b in CIELAB space were performed with a color reader and RAL icolors device.
The composition samples are applied to an artificial skin panel (e.g., BIOSKIN PLATE 10EUROPE FACE skin panel available from Beaulax) by means of a strip applicator, such as strip applicator 1222782 available from BYK, 6 mL each.
●Effect of first layer color:
in the use of
Spectral red interference color pearlescent pigments or compositions containing
Comparing the second composition of the northern light interference color pearlescent pigment with the first composition containing either black dye, white dye or no dye before and after use:
OEL Noir, commercially available Ombree clat lumire Black eye shadow by Nocibie
To summarize:
●Percentage of black pigment influence:
will use the liquid containing
Spectrum red or
Second composition 2-2,2-3 of pearlescent pigment for northern light interference color, and use of first composition containing black pigment in different percentageComparison after pre-use:
to summarize:
●The percentage of film former affects:
will use the liquid containing
Spectrum red or
A second composition of pearlescent pigment for northern light interference color, in comparison with a first composition containing film formers in different percentages:
to summarize:
1. Visual assessment of consumer trial-and-review team
Group (2): 11 women between 20 and 50 years of age were tested:
comparison of A3 with H3
Comparison of A3 with F3
Comparison of A3 with I
For each pair of comparisons, the panel was asked to compare the visual effects and for them to indicate which was the brightest and most intense color.
The following are the results of the study:
● 10 of 11 panelists, 89% found A3 brighter and more intense in color than H3
● 9 of 11 panelists, 78% found A3 brighter and more intense in color than F3
● 11 of the 11 panelists, 100% found A3 brighter and more intensely colored than I
They were also asked to describe the visual effect of A3. The following are the adjectives they refer to:
has metallic light (x 8), aluminum light, colored aluminum foil light (x 7), bright color (x 4), flashing light (x 7), flashing light and bright color (x 3).
Claims (8)
1. A skin cosmetic kit comprising:
-a first composition intended to be applied to the skin to form at least one layer of said first composition, called first layer, and
-a second composition intended to be applied to part or all of the area on said first layer,
the first composition comprises:
-an aqueous solvent, the solvent being a water-soluble solvent,
-at least one black pigment, the black pigment in the first composition being a metal oxide and/or carbon black and representing from 0.5% to 30% of the total weight of the first composition; and
-at least one film forming agent, said at least one film forming agent representing from 10% to 45% of the total weight of the first composition, and
the second composition comprises at least one uncolored interference color pigment comprising a transparent substrate coated with at least one layer of material called a coating, the coating being titanium dioxide.
2. A skin cosmetic kit according to claim 1, wherein the CIELAB spatial brightness of the first composition is less than 27.5.
3. The skin cosmetic kit according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the at least one film forming agent is selected from the group consisting of acetyl tributyl citrate, acrylate polymers or derivatives thereof, acrylamide polymers or derivatives thereof, cellulose or derivatives thereof, chitosan or derivatives thereof, rosin, resins, gums, polyquaterniums and mixtures thereof.
4. A skin cosmetic kit according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that at least one film-forming agent in the first composition represents from 15% to 30% of the total weight of the first composition.
5. A skin cosmetic kit according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the skin cosmetic kit is peelable.
6. A skin multi-layer cosmetic comprising:
-a first composition intended to be applied to the skin to form at least one layer, called first layer, as defined according to any one of claims 1 or 2, and,
-one composition, called second composition, intended to be applied to at least one layer, called second layer, over part of the area or all of the area of said first layer, said second composition comprising at least one uncolored interference color pigment comprising a transparent substrate coated with at least one layer of material, called cladding, said cladding being titanium dioxide.
7. A skin makeup assembly comprising:
-a first composition as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2; and
-one comprising at least one uncolored interference color pigment comprising a transparent substrate coated with at least one layer of material called coating, said coating being a composition called second component of titanium dioxide.
8. A skin makeup method comprising:
-at least one first layer of said first composition applied on the skin, said first composition being a first composition as defined in any one of claims 1 or 2,
-then applying, over all or part of the area of said first layer, a second layer of a composition, called second composition, comprising at least one uncolored interference pigment comprising a transparent substrate coated with at least one layer of a material called coating, said coating being titanium dioxide.
Priority Applications (6)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201711091320.2A CN109745234B (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2017-11-08 | Cosmetic with color metal film effect |
| US16/760,320 US20200337960A1 (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2018-11-07 | Film with a coloured metallic effect to be applied as makeup |
| KR1020207012522A KR20200086271A (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2018-11-07 | Films with colored metallic effect that can be applied as makeup |
| JP2020524449A JP7441168B2 (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2018-11-07 | Make-up film with colored metallic effect |
| PCT/IB2018/001242 WO2019092494A1 (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2018-11-07 | Film with a coloured metallic effect to be applied as makeup |
| EP18875962.5A EP3706711A4 (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2018-11-07 | Film with a coloured metallic effect to be applied as makeup |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201711091320.2A CN109745234B (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2017-11-08 | Cosmetic with color metal film effect |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN109745234A CN109745234A (en) | 2019-05-14 |
| CN109745234B true CN109745234B (en) | 2022-10-28 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201711091320.2A Active CN109745234B (en) | 2017-11-08 | 2017-11-08 | Cosmetic with color metal film effect |
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| CN (1) | CN109745234B (en) |
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| FR2973389B1 (en) * | 2011-03-31 | 2013-04-19 | Lvmh Rech | BLACK COLOR MIXTURE AND COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SAME |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1535673A (en) * | 2003-02-25 | 2004-10-13 | 莱雅公司 | Double-layer cosmetics, its use, and cosmetics box containing the same |
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| CN101679768A (en) * | 2007-05-02 | 2010-03-24 | 巴斯夫欧洲公司 | Reinforced metal oxide flakes for effect pigments |
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| CN102844014A (en) * | 2009-11-25 | 2012-12-26 | 欧莱雅 | Cosmetic product |
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| CN109745234A (en) | 2019-05-14 |
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