FR3073141A1 - COLORED METAL EFFECT FILM FOR MAKE-UP APPLICATION - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic skin makeup assembly characterized in that it comprises: a first composition intended to be applied to the skin so as to form at least one layer, called the first layer, and a second composition being intended to be applied to all or a part of said first layer, said first composition comprising an aqueous solvent, at least one black pigment and at least one film-forming agent, the at least one film-forming agent representing from 10% to 45% by weight of the total weight of said first composition, said second composition comprising at least one interference pigment, the interference pigment comprising a transparent substrate covered with at least one layer of a material, said coating material, said coating material being TiO 2 .

Description

Colored metallic effect film for makeup application

1. Technical field of the invention

The invention relates to a first cosmetic makeup composition, a makeup set comprising the first composition as well as a second composition, a multilayer makeup product and a makeup kit.

2. Technological background

The makeup compositions are colored using coloring materials such as soluble dyes, pigments based on metal oxides, such as iron oxides, or alternatively using effect pigments to produce effects. satin, pearlescent, metallic, shiny such as interference pigments such as micas coated with metallic oxides such as titanium oxide which produce satin, pearly, metallic, shiny effects.

These pigments are visually appealing. They reflect, scatter and absorb various wavelengths of incident light. Each color has its own wavelength discerned by the human eye. The eyes perceive the reflected light but their perception can be affected by the transmitted light.

In general, the effects of these pearlescent pigments are inherent in their primary substrates which have specific properties depending on their chemical nature, their thickness and their refractive indices. The substrates used in the cosmetic industry include mica, synthetic mica, silica, aluminum, borosilicate glass, PET. These substrates are coated with metal oxides with high refractive indices. The optical effect obtained is based on an interference phenomenon based on the difference in refractive index between the air, the coating and the substrate. The colors that interfere with the application depend on the thickness and the coating. The size of the substrate also has an influence on the perceived effect. Pigments with small effects will give a silky, silky effect, while large sizes will give a glitter effect. More complex materials such as mother-of-pearl with a "color travel" effect are made up of a layer structure of different thicknesses responsible for the color variation depending on the angle of view.

These interference pigments can be colored or non-colored depending on the metal oxide used for the coating. The non-colored interference pigments give a very interesting colonel effect, their transparency making it possible to give depth and naturalness. However, a drawback of these non-colored interference pigments is that their transparency does not allow them to obtain a covering makeup. In addition, although the colored effect of the interference pigments is particularly interesting, the interference colors are naturally not very intense.

To overcome this problem, absorption pigments such as iron oxides or carbon black have been combined with interference pigments in formulation. However, the interference pigments are then covered by the absorbent and non-transparent pigments, and therefore stand out less.

To intensify the interference color of interference pigments, one can also associate them with organic dyes or their lacquers, which have very bright colors. But organic dyes and their lacquers often have their own stability problems, or destabilize the formulas due to their physicochemical properties. Cosmetic regulations in different countries also limit the number of dyes that can be used, especially for the eye area, mainly for reasons of irritation and toxicity of organic dyes.

3. Objectives of the invention

The invention aims to overcome at least some of the known drawbacks of this type of non-colored interference pigments such as their lack of coverage, their lack of intensity.

The invention also aims to provide, in at least one embodiment of the invention, a makeup with a colored metallic appearance.

The invention also aims to provide, in at least one embodiment, an easy-to-apply, natural and comfortable makeup.

The invention makes it possible to obtain varied, lively, intense, shiny and metallic colors, without resorting to undesirable organic dyes.

4. Summary of the invention

To do this, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up the skin, called the first composition, comprising an aqueous solvent, at least one black pigment and at least one film-forming agent; the at least one film-forming agent representing from 10% to 45% by weight of the total weight of said first composition.

In fact, the inventors have found that said first composition according to the invention had an excellent base for applying a second makeup composition thereon based on non-colored interference pigments. In addition, the hold and the coverage provided by this base, it surprisingly gives a very intense metallic appearance to the second makeup composition based on non-colored interference pigments.

Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic set for making up the skin comprising:

a first composition intended to be applied to the skin so as to form at least one layer, called the first layer, and

a second composition intended to be applied to all or part of said first layer, said first composition comprising:

an aqueous solvent, at least one black pigment and at least one film-forming agent, the at least one film-forming agent representing from 10% to 45% by weight of the total weight of said first composition, said second composition comprising at least one interference pigment, the interference pigment comprising a transparent substrate covered with at least one layer of a material, called coating material, said coating material being TiCL.

5. Detailed description

First composition

The cosmetic makeup composition, known as the first composition, according to the invention is intended to be applied to the skin, more preferably on the upper and / or lower eyelids. Preferably, the first composition is intended to be used as a makeup base.

The first composition according to the invention comprises from 10% to 45% of the at least one film-forming agent by weight of the total weight of the first composition, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the first composition. This high concentration of film-forming agent combined with the presence of black pigment which absorbs light means that the first composition has a very high absorption of light. This capacity for absorbing light by the first composition makes it possible to produce a metallic effect with great intensity when a second composition is spread over the latter comprising interference pigments.

The absorption capacity of light by the first composition is measured by the luminosity (L) in the CIELAB space. According to a preferred embodiment, the luminosity of the first composition is less than 27.5, preferably less than 25, preferably 20, more preferably 15.

The measurement of the luminosity in the CIELAB space (more particularly the CIELAB76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Lighting according to recommendation 15: 2004) is a standard technique for those skilled in the art. He can use any type of colorimeter or spectrophotometer to do this, for example a Colorcatch Nano device. The measurement of the brightness can be done after having spread the first composition on an artificial skin plate such as for example the BIOSKIN PLATE 10 EUROPE FACE from Beaulax co. Ltd or on the white area of a contrast card, for example Chart 2810 sold by BYK.

The light absorption capacity of the first composition is also characterized by the opacity. The opacity is measured by measuring the brightness (L) on the black area and on the white area of a contrast card on which the composition is preferably spread out using a bar. for example that of reference 1222782 marketed by the company BYK. The opacity is calculated by dividing the brightness on the black area (L black _area ) by that on the white area (L white _area ), multiplied by 100 (Opacity (%) = (L black _area / L white _area ) ^x 100). 100% opacity means that coverage is complete. According to one embodiment, the opacity of the first composition is greater than 75%, preferably 80%, more preferably 85%.

In addition, the first composition has a high adhesion allowing good hold of the second composition on the first composition.

The at least one film-forming agent of the said first composition can be chosen from the group consisting of tributyl acetyl citrate, acrylate polymer or their derivatives, acrylamide polymer or their derivatives, cellulose or its derivatives , chitosan or its derivatives, rosin, resin, gum, polyquarternium and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from an acrylate polymer and / or a mixture of acrylate polymer, even more preferably chosen from a mixture of acrylate copolymer and of acrylate (s) and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer.

Advantageously, the aqueous solvent of said first composition represents 1% to 89.5% by weight of the total weight of said first composition, preferably 50% to 85%. The solvent is preferably water.

The black pigment which is intended to absorb light can be any black pigment which can be used in cosmetics. For example, the black pigment can be a metal oxide and / or carbon black. Advantageously, the black pigment represents from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total weight of said first composition, preferably from 1% to 20%, from 1% to 5% or from 1% to 4% by weight of the total weight of said first composition. Because of its black color, the black pigment will allow the composition to absorb all of the light transmitted through the second composition and thus obtain a maximum effect of the interference color reflected in the different layers of the interference pigment.

Preferably, said first composition does not comprise a pigment other than the black pigment (s); in particular, it does not include interference pigments.

Finally, said first composition may comprise at least one gelling agent, at least one humectant, at least one perfume, at least one preservative and / or any other active ingredient common in cosmetics.

The at least one gelling agent can be a natural gum, preferably chosen from the group consisting of guar, carob and xanthan gum, and / or an organophilic clay, preferably chosen from the group consisting of stearalkonium hectorite or Bentonite.

Preferably, the first composition is peelable. By peelable composition is meant that once applied to the skin, the composition can be detached from it by peeling without the use of a makeup remover.

Second composition

The present invention also relates to a second composition.

Said second composition comprises at least one interference pigment. The interference pigment comprises a transparent substrate, for example mica, covered with at least one layer of a material, called coating material, the coating material being TiCL. The coating material and the thicknesses are chosen so that a color is produced by interference.

It is intended to be applied to all or part of the first composition, thus forming a very intense metallic effect.

Said second composition may be in the form of a stick or powder, preferably a powder, for example a loose powder or a cooked powder.

In addition to the at least one interference pigment, the second composition can comprise a cosmetically acceptable excipient. It can also include perfumes, preservatives and / or any other active ingredient common in cosmetics.

Preferably, the at least one interference pigment is a multilayer interference pigment. The expression multilayer interference pigment designates a pigment capable of producing a color by an interference phenomenon between the light rays reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive indices, in particular a succession of layers of high and low indices of refraction.

The second composition can comprise a single interference pigment or several interference pigments.

The substrate of the interference pigment can be covered with one or more layers of material (s) on one or more faces.

The at least interference pigment of the second composition can comprise a transparent substrate chosen from the group consisting of silica, mica and glass.

The substrate may have a flattened shape or not.

The substrate can include natural mica, synthetic mica, glass, silica. The nature of the substrate can be chosen according to the desired gloss. For example, for a very shiny finish, a glass substrate may be preferred.

The particle size of the interference pigment, given by the average particle size to half the population, also called D50, ranges for example from 1 pm to 2000 pm, better still from 5 pm to 1000 pm.

Said at least one interference pigment represents from 1% to 99% by weight of the total weight of said second composition, preferably from 15% to 50% by weight of the total weight of said second composition.

The interference pigment can also be a goniochromatic pigment. The goniochromatic pigment can be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures.

As goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments with effects on synthetic substrate, in particular substrate of the silica or borosilicate type, or interference flakes from a poly terephthalate film.

Cosmetic makeup set

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic set for making up the skin, comprising:

said first composition according to the invention, said first composition being intended to be applied to the skin so as to form at least one layer, called first layer, and

said second composition according to the invention, said second composition being intended to be applied to all or part of said first layer.

Typically, the cosmetic set for making up the skin according to the invention comprises:

a first composition intended to be applied to the skin so as to form at least one layer, called the first layer, and

a second composition intended to be applied to all or part of said first layer, said first composition comprising:

- an aqueous solvent,

- at least one black pigment and

at least one film-forming agent, the at least one film-forming agent representing from 10% to 45% by weight of the total weight of said first composition, said second composition comprising at least one interference pigment, the interference pigment comprising a transparent substrate covered with at least one layer of a material, called coating material, said coating material being TiCl ·.

The first and second compositions of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention are those described in the preceding paragraphs.

Also, the first composition of the cosmetic assembly preferably has a luminosity (L) in the CIELAB space of less than 27.5. Advantageously, the first composition is intended to be used as a makeup base. The at least one film-forming agent of the first composition is chosen from the group consisting of tributyl acetyl citrate, acrylate polymer or their derivatives, acrylamide polymer or their derivatives, cellulose or its derivatives, chitosan or its derivatives, rosin, resin, gum, polyquartemium and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one film-forming agent of said first composition represents from 15% to 30% by weight of the total weight of said first composition. Still according to a preferred embodiment, the black pigment of said first composition represents from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total weight of said first composition.

Advantageously, a single layer of the first composition is applied.

One or more layers of said second composition can be applied to all or part of said first layer. However, it is preferred to apply only one coat of the second composition over the first composition.

In addition, it is also preferred that the second composition be applied over the entire said first layer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the assembly according to the invention is peelable.

Multilayer cosmetic makeup product

The present invention also relates to a multilayer cosmetic product for making up the skin, comprising:

at least one layer, said first layer, of said first composition according to the invention and

at least one layer, said second layer, of said second composition according to the invention, said second layer being applied to all or part of said first layer.

Preferably, the multilayer product according to the invention is peelable.

Cosmetic makeup kit

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic kit for making up the skin, comprising:

said first composition according to the invention and

said second composition according to the invention.

Make-up process

Finally, the invention relates to a method for making up the skin, comprising:

the application to the skin of at least one layer, called a first layer, of said first composition according to the invention

-then the application to all or part of said first layer of at least one layer, called the second layer, of the second composition according to the invention.

The invention will be further illustrated by the following figures and examples. However, these examples and figures should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

6. Figures

Figures 1 and 2 schematically show the absorbance effect that the lower layer of a multilayer cosmetic product can have on light radiation.

Figure 1 is a schematic view of the interaction between an incident light ray and a multilayer product comprising an interference pigment and a black absorbent bottom layer.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the interaction between an incident light ray and a multilayer product comprising an interference pigment and a white lower layer.

When an incident ray of light 1 comes into contact with an interference pigment 2, part of the ray (ray 1) is reflected (ray 4) and the other (ray 5) is refracted through the interference pigment.

If the lower layer 3 is black (FIG. 1), then the ray 5 transmitted through the interference pigment is absorbed by the black layer.

If the lower layer 3 is white (FIG. 2), then the ray 5 transmitted through the interference pigment is scattered and reflected by the white layer.

So when the lower layer diffuses light, the perception of interference color is less because the eye also receives scattered or reflected light (Figure 4). Whereas when the bottom layer is absorbent, the intensity reflected by the perceived interference pigment is relatively much greater (Figure 3).

7. Examples

Examples of preparation: colored metallic effect eyeliner • First Composition:

Add the ingredients according to the indicated percentage and mix

Example IA:

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ................................ 25%

Carbon black ............................................... ..................... 3%

Water................................................. ................................... 72%

Comparative example IB:

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ................................ 25%

Titanium dioxide ............................................... ...................... 3%

Water................................................. ................................... 72%

Comparative example IC:

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ................................ 25%

Water................................................. .................................... 75%

Example 1F:

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ............................. 25%

Carbon black ............................................... ...................... 1%

Water................................................. .................................. 74%

Example IG:

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ................................ 25%

Carbon black ............................................... ....................... 4%

Water................................................. ................................... 71%

Comparative example 1H:

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ............................. 12.5%

Carbon black ............................................... ..................... 3%

Water................................................. ................................. 84.5% · Second Composition:

Add the ingredients according to the indicated percentage and mix.

Example 2-2:

SUNSHINE® Spectral Red (Titanium Dioxide (and) Synthetis Fluorphlogopite, 20 SunChemical) ..................... 30%

Excipients ................................................. ................................ 70%

Example 2-3:

SUNSHINE® Nothem Lights (Titanium Dioxide (and) Synthetis Fluorphlogopite (and) Magnesium Silicate, SunChemical) .............................. ........30%

Excipients ................................................. ................................ 70% • Comparative example I:

Add the ingredients according to the indicated percentage and mix.

Mixture of acrylate copolymer and acrylate and ethylhexylacrylate copolymer .................................. ............................... 25%

Carbon black ............................................... ....................... 3%

SUNSHINE® Nothem Lights .............................................. ......30%

Water................................................. .................................... 42%

LAB measurement on artificial skin

L * a * b measurements in the CIELAB space were carried out with the COLORCATCH ΝΑΝΟ device and the RAL Icolours application.

The composition 1 samples are spread out using the drawing bar reference 1222782 sold by the company BYK, by the side at 6mil, on an artificial skin sold by the company BEAULAX, CO., LTDn reference BIO SKIN PLATE 10 EUROPE FACE.

• Impact of the color of the first layer:

Comparison of the first composition containing either a black pigment, or a white pigment, or no pigment, before 10 and then after application of the second composition containing the SUNSHINE® Spectral Red mother-of-pearl or the SUNSHINE® Nothern lights mother-of-pearl:

The at b al Composition l. \ (Black pigment) 13.6 5.4 -3.1 A2 Composition IA (black pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 56.3 39.6 -13.1 A3 Composition la (black pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothern lights) 76 -29.4 8.7 B1 Composition IB (white pigment) 96.1 -0.1 0.1 B2 Composition IB (white pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 96.1 0.8 0.2 B3 Composition IB (white pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothern lights) 97.4 -0.2 -0.1 Cl Composition IC (without pigment) 71.9 13 19.8 C2 Composition IC (without pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 77.4 19.8 5.3 C3 Composition IC (without pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Northem lights) 78.1 4.9 13.5 DI Naked skin 67.8 13.4 22.2 D2 Bare skin + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 71.6 13.6 14.9 D3 Bare skin + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Northem lights) 75.5 5.8 12.7 El Ombre flash light Black ⁷ -Nocibc 28.6 »“ 7 ” J, Z /.3

E2 Black glow light shade * -Nocibé + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 43.5 -8.7 5.0 E3 Shadow radiance light Black * -Nocibé + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Northem lights) 51 13.4 -0.1 Black light shine shade *: Black Eyeshadow from Noci Of

Conclusions:

> With the white pigment, (B2 & B3), the values of a and b are close to 0. The interference color of the mother-of-pearl is not visible.

> Without pigment, test C2 shows an increase in red (a), and a decrease in yellow, compared to the color of the skin (Cl, Dl). Test C3 shows a decrease in red (a) and a decrease in yellow (b), relative to the color of the skin (Cl, Dl). The interference color of nacres can therefore be seen in part on the skin, without a colored background. However, if we compare the values a and b obtained for these tests C2 and C3 with the values obtained on a black background (A2, A3), we can clearly see that they are much closer to the color of the skin and much less intense.

> The tests E2 and E3 where the second composition is applied to a black eyeshadow on the market, show values a and b close to zero, much less intense than those obtained on composition IA.

> Only the black pigment associated with film-forming agents reveals the intense red color (a = 39.6) of the SUNSHINE® Spectral Red mother-of-pearl (A2), and the intense green color (b = -29.4) of the SUNSHINE® mother-of-pearl Nothem Lights.

• Impact of the% of black pigment:

Comparison of the first composition containing different% of black pigment, before and after application of the second composition containing the SUNSHINE® Spectral Red mother-of-pearl or the SUNSHINE® Nothern lights mother-of-pearl:

The at b

al Composition IA <25 ^r / polxnicics lllmogcnes. 3 '/ black pigment) 13.6 5.4 -3.1 A2 Composition IA (25% film-forming polymers, 3% black pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 56.3 39.6 13.1 A3 Composition IA (25% film-forming polymers, 3% black pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothem lights) 76 -29.4 8.7 II Composition IF (25% polxnicrcs lllmogcnes. 1% black pigment) 25.3 7 -0.5 F2 Composition 1F (25% film-forming polymers, 1% black pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 50.4 26.4 12.7 F3 Composition 1F (25% film-forming polymers, 1% black pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothem lights) 71.6 -25.6 8 .3 (he Composition IG (25% pol \ lllmogcnes mothers. 4% black pigment) 11.1 8.8 -5.1 G2 Composition IG (25% film-forming polymers, 4% black pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 52.8 32.8 -9.5 G3 Composition IG (25% film-forming polymers, 4% black pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothem lights) 76.7 -28.5 9.4

Conclusions:

> The difference between the result obtained for 3% black pigment and 4% black pigment in the first composition is small. It seems that we get a saturation effect above 3% of black pigment.

> The luminosity of the first composition + the second composition is higher for A2 and A3 containing 3% of black pigment than for F2 and F3 containing 1% of black pigment. Gloss is therefore more important.

> The red interference color of SUNSHINE® Spectral Red mother-of-pearl is more intense with the first composition with 3% black pigment than with the first composition with 1% black pigment (a = 39.6 for sample A2 and a = 26.4 for sample F2)> The green interference color of SUNSHINE® Nothern lights mother-of-pearl is more intense with the first composition with 3% black pigment than with the first composition with 1% black pigment (a = -29.4 for the sample A3 and a = -25.6 for sample F3) • Impact of the% of film formers:

Comparison of the first composition containing different% of film-forming polymers, before and after application of the second composition containing the SUNSHINE® Spectral Red mother-of-pearl or the SUNSHINE® Nothern lights mother-of-pearl:

The at b al Composition IA (25% rilniogenes polymers. 3% pigment) 13.6 5.4 -3.1 A2 Composition IA (25% film-forming polymers, 3% pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 56.3 39.6 13.1 A3 Composition IA (25% film-forming polymers, 3% pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothern lights) 76 -29.4 8.7 III Composition III (12.5 ^e ? Polxmêres lllmogencs. 3'i pigment) 22.8 1.3 2 H2 Composition 1H (12.5% polymers film-forming, 3% pigment) + Composition 2-2 (SUNSHINE® Spectral Red) 45.7 18.5 -7.7 H3 Composition 1H (12.5% polymers film-forming, 3% pigment) + Composition 2-3 (SUNSHINE® Nothern lights) 65.8 -25.8 7.6

Conclusions:

> The luminosity of the first composition + the second composition is higher for A2 and A3 containing 25% of film former than for H2 and H3 containing 12.5% of film former. Gloss is therefore more important.

> The red interference color of SUNSHINE® Spectral Red mother-of-pearl is more intense with the first composition containing 25% film-forming materials than with the first composition containing 12.5% film-forming materials (a = 39.6 for sample A2 and a = 18.5 for sample H2)> The green interference color of SUNSHINE® Nothern lights mother-of-pearl is more intense with the first composition containing 50% film-forming materials than with the first composition containing 25% film-forming materials (a = -29.4 for sample A3 and a = -25.8 for sample H3)

1. Visual assessment by consumer panel

Panel: 11 women between 20 and 50 years old evaluated:

A3 compared to H3

A3 compared to F3

A3 compared to I

For each pair, they were asked to compare the visual result and indicate which one was the brightest and most intense in color according to them.

Here are the results of the study:

• 10 out of 11 panelists found A3 to be brighter and more intense in color than H3 or 89% of panelists • 9 out of 11 panelists found A3 to be brighter and more intense in color than F3 or 78% of panelists • 11 out of 11 panelists found A3 to be brighter and more intense in color than I was 100% of panelists

They were also asked to characterize the visual effect obtained for A3. Here are the adjectives they cited:

Metallic (x8), aluminum, colored aluminum foil, bright (x7), intense color (x4), shiny (x7), glittery, vibrant color (x3).

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic set for making up the skin, characterized in that it comprises: a first composition intended to be applied to the skin so as to form at least one layer, called the first layer, and a second composition intended to be applied to all or part of said first layer, said first composition comprising: an aqueous solvent, at least one black pigment and at least one film-forming agent, the at least one film-forming agent representing from 10% to 45% by weight of the total weight of said first composition, said second composition comprising at least one interference pigment, the interference pigment comprising a transparent substrate covered with at least one layer of a material, called coating material, said coating material being TiCl ·. 2. Cosmetic assembly characterized in that the luminosity (L) of said first composition in the CIELAB space is less than 27.5. 3. Cosmetic assembly according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the at least one film-forming agent of said first composition is chosen from the group consisting of tributyl acetyl citrate, acrylate polymer or their derivatives, acrylamide polymer or their derivatives, cellulose or its derivatives, chitosan or its derivatives, rosin, resin, gum, polyquartemium and mixtures thereof. 4. Cosmetic assembly according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one film-forming agent of the said first composition represents from 15% to 30% by weight of the total weight of the said first composition. 5. Cosmetic assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized in that the black pigment of said first composition represents from 0.5% to 30% by weight of the total weight of said first composition. 6. Cosmetic assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the interference pigment of said second composition comprises a transparent substrate chosen from the group consisting of silica, mica and glass. 7. Cosmetic assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that it is peelable. 8. Multilayer cosmetic product for making up the skin, comprising: at least one layer, called the first layer, of the said first composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7 and at least one layer, said second layer, of said second composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7, said second layer being applied to all or part of said first layer. 9. Skin makeup kit, comprising: -said first composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7 and the second composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7. 10. Method for making up the skin, comprising: the application to the skin of at least one layer, called a first layer, of said first composition, said first composition being as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7, -then the application to all or part of said first layer of at least one layer, called second layer, of the second composition, the second composition being as defined according to any one of claims 1 to