WO2015090792A1 - Colorant pour cheveux contenant un copolymère de silicone à blocs et un composé d'ammonium quaternaire - Google Patents

Colorant pour cheveux contenant un copolymère de silicone à blocs et un composé d'ammonium quaternaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015090792A1
WO2015090792A1 PCT/EP2014/074847 EP2014074847W WO2015090792A1 WO 2015090792 A1 WO2015090792 A1 WO 2015090792A1 EP 2014074847 W EP2014074847 W EP 2014074847W WO 2015090792 A1 WO2015090792 A1 WO 2015090792A1
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Prior art keywords
hair
composition according
quaternary ammonium
ammonium compound
radical
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PCT/EP2014/074847
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Matthias Schweinsberg
Torsten LECHNER
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015090792A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015090792A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a composition for dyeing change of keratinic fibers, which contains in a cosmetic carrier in addition to at least one coloring compound at least one Vietnamesestoffkombination consisting of at least one silicone block copolymer and at least one quaternary ammonium compound.
  • the compositions of the invention are particularly suitable for the reduction of hair damage and for improving the hair surface in the oxidative dyeing of human hair and cause no or only minimal color shift.
  • the invention relates to a dyeing process with the aid of the composition and the use of the composition or the care combination for reducing the damage to hair, to improve the hair surface and to increase the color retention and washout of dyed or bleached hair, and a corresponding kit for coloring keratinic fibers.
  • human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.
  • the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components. The oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For naturally acting dyeings, however, usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called substantive dyes as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyes are usually much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so then much more quickly a much undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs.
  • oxidation stabilizers for stabilizing the dye precursors during storage and for accelerating the reaction during the oxidative use have an alkaline pH adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.
  • oxidation dye precursors and alkalizing agents are usually incorporated in a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example a cream or a gel.
  • a cosmetically suitable carrier for example a cream or a gel.
  • the carrier ensures a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of the colorant on the hair.
  • oxidation stains are commonly formulated into product series that include a standardized carrier that can be combined with the nuance-specific oxidation dye precursor combination and alkalizing agents as fully as possible.
  • the result of the dyeing does not depend solely on the combination of oxidation dye precursors used and, if appropriate, substantive dyes, but is also influenced by the ingredients of the carrier.
  • the dyes formed or directly used in the course of color development under the influence of the oxidizing agent may have a significantly different absorption capacity onto the fiber; also the carrier ingredients can act differently on each dye.
  • Hair dyes are therefore extensively and extensively tested for their achievable color and for a variety of application properties prior to market introduction. These tests thus take into account the interactions between oxidation dye precursors and carriers only for a specific carrier. On the part of the manufacturers there is a regular desire to tailor a hair dye series specifically to the specific needs of certain consumer groups by adding appropriate active ingredients or conditioners to the standardized carrier. For consumers with more damaged hair, for example, the addition of one or more care ingredients with hair repairing effect would be recommended, while an addition of too much conditioning would further complain the hair.
  • color shift This color shift, also denoted dE or ⁇ , can be determined colorimetrically well with a color measuring device with which the colors in the L * , a * , b * color space are measured be, for example, with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450th
  • the L * , a * , b * color space is understood to mean the CIELAB color space.
  • the L value stands for the brightness of the color (black and white axis); the larger the value for L, the lighter the coloration.
  • the a value stands for the red-green axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to red.
  • the b value stands for the yellow-blue axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to yellow.
  • the color shift ⁇ ie the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L * , a * , b * value combination has been determined, is calculated according to the following formula:
  • color-changing compositions which contain, in addition to a color-modifying component, at least one care substance combination consisting of at least one silicone block copolymer and at least one quaternary ammonium compound avoid the abovementioned disadvantages. Due to the nourishing effect when using the composition according to the invention no or only a minimal color shift can be caused and the hair damage and thus caused Farberhalt and the homogeneity of the coloring are thereby significantly improved.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a composition for the color change of keratinous fibers, contained in a suitable cosmetic carrier
  • X represents a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms
  • Y is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms
  • R 1 represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,
  • R 3 represents -H, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,
  • p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18
  • n and n are integers between 2 and 200, c) at least one quaternary ammonium compound.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier.
  • this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic.
  • hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
  • aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 4 -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol.
  • an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.
  • Dyeing compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substantive dye or oxidation dye precursor or mixtures thereof.
  • Compositions which simultaneously have a coloring and whitening action usually contain both oxidizing agents and at least one substantive dye and / or oxidation dye precursors. If only substantive dyes are present, for example, the formulation of a dyeing shampoo is possible.
  • compositions for dyeing and / or brightening keratinic fibers are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - 0.001 to 5 wt .-% of one or more oxidation dye precursors and / or one or more substantive dyes.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as coloring components at least one oxidation dye precursor.
  • the oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0, 1 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.
  • compositions of the invention contain at least one developer type and / or type of coupler oxidation dye precursor.
  • colorants of the present invention contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.
  • the developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates.
  • Inventive developer components are selected from p-phenylenediamine, binuclear developer components, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, heterocyclic developer components and / or the derivatives of the above classes of substances.
  • the developer components are preferably used in an amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.
  • Coupler components do not form a significant color within the framework of the oxidative dyeing alone, but always require the presence of developer components. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention that at least one developer component is additionally used when using at least one coupler component.
  • Coupler components according to the invention are preferably selected from m-aminophenol, m-diaminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene, o-aminophenol, naphthalene derivatives having at least one hydroxyl group, di- or trihydroxybenzene, pyridine, pyrimidine, monohydroxy- or monoaminoindole, monohydroxy- or monoaminoindoline, pyrazolone , Benzomorpholine, quinoxaline and / or the derivatives of the preceding classes of substances.
  • the coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use colorant.
  • developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other.
  • a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component and / or at least one coupler component, preferred developer components being selected from toluene-2,5-diamines sulfates, 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino-pyrazoles sulfates, 4 -Amino-m-cresol, and preferred coupler components are selected from m-aminophenol, 1-naphthol, resorcinol, 6-methoxy-2-methylamino-3-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 4-chlororesorcinol, 4-amino 2-hydroxytoluene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisole sulfate.
  • preferred developer components being selected from toluene-2,5-diamines sulfates, 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino-pyrazoles sulfates, 4 -Amino
  • the agents according to the invention contain further coloring components.
  • the compositions according to the invention can contain as coloring component, in particular for shading, at least one substantive dye.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • the total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 3% by weight.
  • Direct dyes are known as anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one substantive dye which is selected from Nitrophenylendiaminen, Nitroaminophenolen, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols, preferably from the known under the international name or trade name dye HC Yellow 2 and 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol.
  • at least one substantive dye which is selected from Nitrophenylendiaminen, Nitroaminophenolen, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols, preferably from the known under the international name or trade name dye HC Yellow 2 and 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol.
  • At least one dye precursor of naturally-analogous dyes is added as the coloring component.
  • the dyestuff precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably indoles and indolines which have at least two groups selected from hydroxy and / or amino groups, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group.
  • the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Compositions according to the invention which comprise precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferably used as air-oxidative colorants. Consequently, in this embodiment said compositions are not added with an additional oxidizing agent.
  • the dye precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are each preferably used in an amount of from 0.001 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the agents.
  • oxidation dye precursors direct dyes, oxo dye precursors or naturally-analogous dyes to be each one of the same compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing or for other reasons, eg. As toxicological, must be excluded.
  • compositions according to the invention can also be provided as brightening agents (hereinafter also referred to as bleaching agents) and / or as colorants.
  • Brightening agents hereinafter also referred to as bleaching agents
  • colorants Agents which simultaneously dye and brighten are also referred to as lightening dyes.
  • Brightening agents according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to solid carriers.
  • hydrogen peroxide itself is preferably used.
  • the hydrogen peroxide is used as a solution or in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds, such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H2O2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide.
  • aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions are very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably 6 to 12 percent solutions in water are used.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are formulated as bleaching agents or developers and - based on their weight - 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.75 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 1, 25 to 7 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 6.0 Wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H2O2) included.
  • the development of the color can in principle be done with atmospheric oxygen.
  • a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired.
  • a further embodiment of the invention is therefore an agent which additionally contains an oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products of organic and inorganic compounds.
  • Suitable solid addition products according to the invention are, in particular, the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and also sodium borate.
  • Hydrogen peroxide is preferably used as oxidizing agent.
  • the amount of hydrogen peroxide in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 6% by weight, in each case based on the ready-to-use agent.
  • the actual colorant is expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing a preparation according to the invention comprising at least one coloring compound in a cosmetic carrier and a preparation containing the additional oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • the agent according to the invention may contain the plant fatty acid triglycerides in the preparation with the coloring compounds and / or in the oxidizing agent preparation.
  • the preparation with the coloring compounds preferably contains the vegetable fatty acid triglyceride.
  • compositions of the invention contain as a care substance for improving the fiber structure, namely to prevent or compensate for moisture loss and to improve the mechanical properties, in particular to prevent or compensate for spasm of the keratinic fibers and for the protection of the scalp at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).
  • X and Y independently of one another represent a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 C atoms.
  • Preferred radicals X and Y are unsubstituted, ie they are preferably pure hydrocarbon radicals.
  • the linear hydrocarbon radicals are preferred, ie preferred radicals X and Y are independently selected from -CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2-, - (CH 2) 3, - (CH 2) 4, - (CH 2) 5 , - (CH2) 6-, - (CH2) 7- or - (CH2) s-.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone block copolymer having structural units of the formula (1-1) to (I-9)
  • R 1 represents a substituted or unsubstituted methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n -nutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,
  • n stands for an integer between 2 and 200.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formula (I-4).
  • R 1 is a substituted or unsubstituted methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-polybutyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical.
  • R1 is preferably selected from - CH3, -CH2CH3, CH2CH (CH3) 2 and -CH2OH, so that preferred inventive Compositions contain at least one silicone block copolymer having structural units of the formula (1-10) to (I-45)
  • n is an integer between 2 and 200.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone block copolymer which contains structural units of the formula (Ia)
  • n stands for an integer between 2 and 200.
  • copolymers b) present in the agents according to the invention additionally contain structural units of the formula (II)
  • n stands for integers between 2 and 200.
  • n is an integer between 2 and 200 and p is the number 10, 1 1, 12, 13, 14, 15 or 16, preferably 14.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone block copolymer b) which contains structural units of the formula (Ia) and / or structural units of the formula (IIa)
  • n and n independently of one another are an integer between 2 and 200 and p is the number 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 or 16, preferably 14.
  • the block copolymers b) present in the agents according to the invention may contain, in addition to blocks of structural units of the formulas (I) and (II), further structural blocks. Preference is given to further blocks of polydimethylsiloxane which can terminate or separate the blocks from structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).
  • the copolymer (s) b) is preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of up to 10% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.
  • Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and in particular 1 From 0 to 3.0% by weight of the silicone block copolymer (s) b).
  • Particularly preferred copolymers (e) b) are designated according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) as bis-isopropylamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer.
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a composition for color change keratinischer fibers containing
  • compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, from 0.001 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight of 2-butyloctan-1-ol (INCI name: butyloctanol).
  • compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their total weight, from 0.001 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 6% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-% polysorbate 20 included.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain silicone block copolymer (s) b), quaternary ammonium compound (s) c), butyloctanol and polysorbate 20 as a conditioner combination.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds are in principle monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. There are three different types of quaternary ammonium compounds and their subgroups, namely:
  • the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable and are used in an amount of 0.01 to 10.0 wt.%. This amount is also not exceeded or exceeded when a mixture of different compounds of the quaternary ammonium compounds is used.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds preferred according to the invention are selected from at least one of the groups
  • the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2) in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -1) form the first group.
  • R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally with a or multiple hydroxy groups.
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
  • Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1-1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) form a preferred group.
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • radical (--X - R4) with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • Examples are: -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals,
  • R 6 -O-CO- wherein R 6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which may optionally further be ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,
  • A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with the trade names Armocare® VGH-70, and Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® L80, Stepantex® VS 90 and Akypoquat® 131.
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 Carbon atoms.
  • A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium 91 is highly preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention furthermore comprise at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • Other quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.
  • the cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with cationic monomers.
  • Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium , or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts.
  • the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
  • Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • R1 -H or -CH3, R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from C1-4-
  • Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
  • X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.
  • Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following
  • R1 is a methyl group
  • R2, R3 and R4 are methyl groups
  • m is 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is the, optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion.
  • Such polymer dispersions are commercially available under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a RbR c A "
  • G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
  • B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
  • R a , Rb and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , Rb and R c is preferably at most 20;
  • a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • Cationic, ie quaternized celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
  • Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ® polymer or polymer ® SK (Amerchol) is. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
  • cationic celluloses are Polymer JR ® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24).
  • Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100 and Celquat ® L 200.
  • Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Also particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative. The cationic guar derivatives are preferred according to the invention.
  • a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
  • a preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
  • Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • cationic alkyl polyglycosides for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate methosulfate copolymer sold under the trade names Gafquat® 755 N and Gafquat® 734 by Gaf Co., USA and the INCI name Polyquaternium-1 1,
  • polyquaternium-2 polyquaternium-17
  • polyquaternium 18 polyquaternium-27
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the
  • Designation Aquaflex® SF 40 are offered.
  • Amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
  • R1-CH CR2-CO-Z- (CnH2n) -N (+) R2R3R4 A (-) (monol)
  • R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3, R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n an integer from 2 to 5 and A ( -) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
  • R6 and R7 independently of one another represent a (C1 to C4) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
  • A- is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • R8 and R9 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers employing monomers of type (i) wherein R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A (-) is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i).
  • acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
  • amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, inter alia with the trade name Merquat® 280 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer
  • R 10 and R 1 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 12 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8) alkyl group.
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, inter alia, under the trade name Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
  • the aforementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any combination with each other.
  • a preferred composition according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one quaternary ammonium compound c) from at least one of the groups
  • radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or
  • composition according to the invention is characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound c) is selected from at least one of the groups of cationic surfactants consisting of
  • radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or iv) the amines and / or cationized amines,
  • Another object of the present invention is therefore a composition for color change keratinischer fibers, characterized in that they
  • the quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) are in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 3.0 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the ratio of the weight proportions of polymer (e) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c) is between 1:10 and 10: 1, preferably between 1: 6 and 6: 1, and particularly preferred between 1: 3 and 3: 1.
  • a most preferred optional ingredient of the compositions of the invention is a nonionic and / or anionic surfactant.
  • these surfactants contribute significantly to improving the adhesion of the active ingredients to the keratinic fiber.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, each having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and polyalkoxylated ether carboxylic acids having 6 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • Examples of preferred compounds of the polyalkoxylated ether carboxylic acid type are sold under the trade names Akypo TEC (INCI name: Oleth-10 Carboxylic Acid, Capryleth-9 Carboxylic Acid, Hexeth-4 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo RLM 38 (INCI name: LAURETH-5 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo RO 90 (INCI name: Oleth-10 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo Soft 100 (INCI name: Sodium Laureth-1 1 carboxylate), Akypo RO 20 (INCI name: Oleth-3 Carboxylic Acid), Akypo Soft 45 HP (INCI name: Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate) or Akypo RLM 45 (INCI). Name: Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid).
  • nonionic surfactants are adducts of polyethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, particular preference being given to addition products of polyethylene oxide onto fatty alcohols which have an average degree of ethoxylation of from 10 to 45, in particular from 12 to 30, for example steareth-20, coceth-15, oleth-20 or also ceteareth-30, as well as alkylpolyglucosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) n , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and n is the number of sugar units.
  • a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is characterized in that the agent as additional nonionic surfactant at least one alkyl polyglucoside of the formula R'0- (Z) n , wherein R 'is a Cio-C2o-alkyl chain, Z is a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and n is a number from 1 to 15.
  • Examples of such compounds bear the INCI names Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Cetearyl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain as nonionic surfactant the adduct of coconut fatty alcohol with (poly) glucose, which is known by the INCI name Coco-Glucoside.
  • Such a product is sold, inter alia, under the trade name Lamesoft PO 65 (INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua).
  • compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain, based on their total weight, at least one surfactant selected from the nonionic and / or anionic surfactants in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-%.
  • the agents if appropriate also preparation containing coloring compounds, and / or the oxidizing agent preparations of oxidative colorants contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent.
  • Customary and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, in particular ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP), aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) and diethylenetriaminepenta (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1, 2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali
  • the agents preferably contain complexing agents of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention are preferably formulated as flowable preparations.
  • the means should be formulated so that the agent can be well applied and distributed well on the one hand, on the other hand, however, is sufficiently viscous that the agent remains at the site of action during the exposure time and does not run.
  • agents contain at least one thickener.
  • the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer.
  • anionic polymers are acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers which are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the agent, are included.
  • the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group are bonded via a C 1 -C 4 -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Such polymers can also be used as copolymers with nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C 1 -C 4 -alkyl ester.
  • Nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone, are also useful as thickeners of the invention. Preference is furthermore given to using naturally occurring, optionally modified thickening agents.
  • Guar gums e.g. Guar gums, scleroglucangums or xanthan gums, vegetable gums such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses.
  • phyllosilicates polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates
  • clays preferably magnesium aluminum silicates, such as, for example, bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally also be suitably modified, and synthetic sheet silicates are preferred.
  • bentonite especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally also be suitably modified, and synthetic sheet silicates are preferred.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic polymers, anionic polymers, structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, fiber-structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, defoamers such as silicones, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents, drugs such as amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates, polyphenols and (pseudo) ceramides, panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, Pyrrolidinonecarboxylic acids and their salts and bisabolol, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of the groups A, B3, Bs, ⁇
  • the means for changing the color of the hair have a neutral pH as possible.
  • an alkaline pH is advantageous.
  • the ready-to-use agent has a pH between 6.0 and 12.0, preferably between 7.0 and 1 1, 5, particularly preferably between 8.0 and 1 1, 0 ,
  • the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters.
  • those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying and alkalizing agents.
  • the alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia.
  • Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, for example citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids.
  • Alkaliating agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, 2-aminoethane-1-ol, triethanolamine, ammonia, 1-aminopropane - 2-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.
  • the preparation of the color change agents according to the invention is subject in principle to no restrictions.
  • the agents according to the invention can be formulated as 1-component agents, which are optionally mixed immediately before use with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent.
  • a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent.
  • the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately. According to the invention, it does not initially matter which of the components according to the invention is packaged separately.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers, and wherein a container contains a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least a coloring compound, in particular an oxidation dye precursor and additionally containing at least one fatty acid triglyceride, and a further container containing an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • a colorant which in a cosmetic carrier at least a coloring compound, in particular an oxidation dye precursor and additionally containing at least one fatty acid triglyceride, and a further container containing an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the ready-to-use colorant preferably has a pH of between 5.0 and 12.0, preferably between 6.0 and 11.0.
  • a further subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising at least two separately assembled containers, wherein
  • container is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally reclosable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings.
  • the wrapping material according to the invention are no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.
  • the multicomponent packaging unit according to the invention contains at least one further hair treatment agent in a separate container, in particular a conditioning agent.
  • the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use.
  • kit-of-parts what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
  • compositions according to the invention are used in processes for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair and preferably human hair.
  • Such processes for dyeing human hair are characterized in that a composition according to the invention is applied to the hair according to the above instructions for an exposure time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 2 to 55 minutes, most preferably 5 to 45 minutes, and in particular from 10 to 30 minutes, is left on the hair, and then the hair is rinsed out.
  • the application temperatures for the color change of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C.
  • the washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.
  • composition according to the invention for the oxidative dyeing of human hair, an improved hair surface is achieved over comparable oxidative coloring agents. Similarly, a comparatively reduced hair structure damage, an improved hair surface and thus an improved color retention and the improved homogeneity of the dyeing are observed.
  • Another subject of the invention is therefore the use of mixtures of polymer (s) b) and quaternary ammonium compound (s) c)
  • a further subject of the invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for improving the hair surface, for reducing the damage to the hair structure in the oxidative change of keratin fibers, with no or only a minimal color shift is caused, and colored or bleached keratinischer to increase the color retention and washout fibers.
  • compositions according to the invention contain examples of compositions according to the invention. All numerical values are, unless stated otherwise, the amount of the respective active substance in percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition:
  • Cetrimonium chloride 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3 Butyloctanol 0.001 to 8 0.005 to 6 0.05 to 4 0.1 to 2 0.5 to 2
  • Cetrimonium chloride 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 6 0.5 to 5 1 to 3
  • Polysorbate 20 0.001 to 8 0.005 to 6 0.05 to 4 0.1 to 2 0.5 to 2
  • Surfactant / emulsifier 0.01 to 10 0.05 to 8 0.1 to 5 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3

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Abstract

L'invention a pour objet une composition de modification de la couleur des fibres kératiniques, contenant, dans un excipient cosmétique approprié, a) au moins un composé du groupe constitué par les précurseurs de colorants d'oxydation, les colorants directs, ou des mélanges de ceux-ci, b) au moins un copolymère de silicone à blocs contenant des motifs structuraux des formules (I) et (II), dans lesquelles X représente un résidu alkyle substitué ou non, contenant 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, ou 8 atomes de C, Y représente un résidu alkyle substitué ou non, comprenant 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, ou 8 atomes de C, R1 représente un résidu méthyl-, éthyl-, n-propyl-, isopropyl-, n-butyl-, sec-butyle, isobutyl- ou tert-butyle, R3 représente H, un résidu méthyl-, éthyl-, n-propyl-, isopropyl-, n-butyl-, sec-butyle, isobutyl- ou tert-butyle, p représente un entier entre 1 et 30, de préférence 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 ou 18, m et n représentent des entiers entre 2 et 200, c) au moins un composé d'ammonium quaternaire.
PCT/EP2014/074847 2013-12-18 2014-11-18 Colorant pour cheveux contenant un copolymère de silicone à blocs et un composé d'ammonium quaternaire WO2015090792A1 (fr)

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DE102013226358.9A DE102013226358A1 (de) 2013-12-18 2013-12-18 "Haarfärbemittel enthaltend spezielle Kombinationen von Pflegestoffen"
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DE102004020501A1 (de) * 2004-04-26 2005-11-10 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Organosilikon-Copolymeren in Haarfärbemitteln
EP2689803A2 (fr) * 2012-07-27 2014-01-29 Henkel AG&Co. KGAA Produit de teinture et de soin des cheveux avec des copolymères séquencés

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DE102004020501A1 (de) * 2004-04-26 2005-11-10 Henkel Kgaa Verwendung von Organosilikon-Copolymeren in Haarfärbemitteln
EP2689803A2 (fr) * 2012-07-27 2014-01-29 Henkel AG&Co. KGAA Produit de teinture et de soin des cheveux avec des copolymères séquencés

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"Dow Corning CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion", 12 March 2013 (2013-03-12), XP002735363, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.dowcorning.com/DataFiles/090276fe80190246.pdf> [retrieved on 20150202] *
"Silicone Emulsion Blend for Hair Color Retention", IP.COM JOURNAL, IP.COM INC., WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US, 4 December 2013 (2013-12-04), XP013160127, ISSN: 1533-0001 *
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SCHRADER: "Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika", 1989, HÜTHIG BUCH VERLAG

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