Classifications

• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
  • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
  • B29C53/00—Shaping by bending, folding, twisting, straightening or flattening; Apparatus therefor
  • B29C53/36—Bending and joining, e.g. for making hollow articles
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
  • A41D27/245—Hems; Seams made by welding or gluing
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
  • A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
  • A41F9/02—Expansible or adjustable belts or girdles ; Adjustable fasteners comprising a track and a slide member
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
  • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
  • B29C53/00—Shaping by bending, folding, twisting, straightening or flattening; Apparatus therefor
  • B29C53/36—Bending and joining, e.g. for making hollow articles
  • B29C2053/362—Bending and joining, e.g. for making hollow articles for making hems
• • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
  • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
  • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
  • B29C53/00—Shaping by bending, folding, twisting, straightening or flattening; Apparatus therefor
  • B29C53/36—Bending and joining, e.g. for making hollow articles
  • B29C2053/362—Bending and joining, e.g. for making hollow articles for making hems
  • B29C2053/367—Bending and joining, e.g. for making hollow articles for making hems provided with a strip

Definitions

• This invention relates to garment and garment manufacture, and, more particularly to waistbands and collar stands for garments and methods and devices for their manufacture.
• waistbands Many garments such as pants, dresses, skirts, and the like include waistbands, and shirt's use collar stands.
• waistbands There are many types of waistbands, including one-piece, waistbands with inners and waistbands with curtains.
• one-piece waistbands for use on garments were made by first cutting each waistband to the desired length, then folding the waistband across a central axis thereof to create a crease, and then pressing the crease down with a hand iron. The two edges were then each also folded in and pressed, and then, in some cases, the seams were sewn along the two outer edges. Then the one side was used to attach the waistband to the pant or skirt, the other side was tucked in and stitched down when closing the waistband.
• An object of this invention is to create waistbands and collar stands with consistent quality, and without wasting excess fabric, and in such a way that they can be efficiently attached to garments.
• FIGS. 1A - ID are a top views of two substrates in various stages of forming waistbands or collar stands according to embodiments hereof;
• FIGS. 2 A, 2B, and 2C are side views of the substrates of
• FIGS. 1A - 1C respectively, according to embodiments hereof;
• FIGS. 2D-2F are side views of a substrate according to embodiments hereof;
• FIGS. 3A-3D depict systems for manufacture of waistbands or collar stands according to embodiments hereof;
• FIGS. 4A-4B are flowcharts of processes for manufacture of waistbands or collar stands according to embodiments hereof;
• FIG. 5 is a top view of a waistband according to embodiments hereof;
• FIGS. 6A-6N depict an exemplary folder for manufacture of waistbands or collar stands according to embodiments hereof.
• FIGS. 7A-7C depict exemplary guides used in the systems of
• FIGS. 3A-3B are identical to FIGS. 3A-3B.
• Waistbands according to embodiments hereof are described with reference to FIGS. 1A to ID and 2A, 2B-1, 2B-2, and 2C. [0016] The following description refers to the manufacture of
• waistbands It should be appreciated that the same processes and systems may be used for collar stands and other rectangular pieces.
• FIGS. 1 A to ID show a top view of only a portion of a continuous waistband.
• a waistband stream is formed from two substrates or materials that are processed as described herein.
• the first substrate 10 is the outer material of the waistband to be manufactured.
• the first substrate 10 may be provided as a continuous piece of material (e.g., from a spool) or it may be formed by joining pre-cut waistbands together, end-to-end (thereby to form a continuous piece of material).
• the latter approach is preferable when color matching of waistbands to garment is desired, as the individual pre-cut waistbands can be cut from the same material as the rest of the garment. This latter approach lends itself to a system in which waistbands are processed in smaller batches (e.g., 10-20 at a time), although it can be used for larger batches.
• the first substrate may comprise rigid fabric, or stretch fabric, or fabric cut on the bias.
• the first substrate may comprise: denim, cotton, cotton blends, wool, wool blends, polyester, polyester blends, spandex, spandex blends, polyester viscose, linen and linen blends.
• the fusible substrate 12 is a fusible material that is applied to the inside of the waistband.
• fusible is sometimes used herein to refer to the fusible material. It should be appreciated that the words “first” and “second” are used herein to distinguish or identify the materials or substrates, and not to show a serial or numerical limitation.
• the inner material of second substrate 12 comprises a fusible substrate and is provided, in part, to provide and/or maintain an elastic memory of the form and the shape of the waistband.
• the waistbands are to be made from denim, then the outer material or first substrate 10 will comprise denim, and the inner material or fusible substrate 12 will be an appropriate material that will fuse to the denim under appropriate fusing conditions (i.e., pressure, speed, and temperature conditions).
• appropriate fusing conditions i.e., pressure, speed, and temperature conditions.
• the waistbands manufactured by the processes described herein may use any materials, and invention is not limited by any examples given. It should further be
• the fusible substrate 12 is positioned on top of the first substrate 10. As shown in the drawing in
• FIG. 1A the first substrate 10, before being folded, has a width Wl, and the fusible substrate 12 has a width W2.
• FIGS. 1A to 1C Various dashed and dotted lines are used in FIGS. 1A to 1C and
• the fusible substrate 12 is positioned between dashed lines A - A and B - B, preferably centered along the dashed line M-M that denotes a center axis of the first substrate 10.
• the fusible substrate 12 may be positioned off-center with respect to the first substrate 10 for certain waistband designs, and that these designs are contemplated herein.
• the distance from the edge of the fusible substrate along line A - A to the edge X - X of first substrate 10 is referred to as W3, and distance from the edge of the fusible substrate along the line B - B to the edge Y - Y of first substrate 10 is referred to as W4.
• the fusible substrate 12 may be positioned substantially in the center of the first substrate 10 (i.e., substantially along a central axis of the first substrate 10), or it may be positioned off center.
• the values of W3 and W4 may by substantially equal (when the fusible 12 is centered along the transverse axis of the first substrate 10, or they may be unequal (when the fusible 12 is off center), as shown, e.g., in FIG. ID.
• the fusible 12 may be positioned so that there is no substrate 10 exposed on one or both sides.
• the fusible 12 may be positioned on the substrate 10 with only 1/8 inch of the edge on one side.
• dashed lines A-A and B-B denote two fold lines.
• a portion 10-1 of the first substrate 10 is folded over the fold line A-A, and a second portion 10-2 the first substrate 10 is folded over the fold line B-B.
• the distance between the fold lines A-A and B-B is essentially the width of the fusible 12.
• the width of the first portion of the first substrate 10 that will be folded over the fold line A-A is substantially W3
• the width of the portion of the second portion of the first substrate 10 that will be folded over the fold line B-B is substantially W4.
• the fold line A-A corresponds substantially to an edge A-A of the fusible substrate 12. It should be
• the fold line A-A may be away from the edge of the fusible substrate 12.
• the other fold line is shown to correspond substantially to the edge B-B of the fusible substrate 12, in some less preferred embodiments the other fold line B-B may be away from the edge of the fusible substrate 12.
• FIG. 2A shows a cross-sectional view of the materials in
• FIG. 1A with the fusible substrate 12 positioned on top of the first substrate 10.
• FIGS. IB and 2B show a continuous waistband being formed according to embodiments hereof, and in which a first portion 10-1 of the first substrate 10 has been folded over fold line A-A, and a second portion 10-2 of the first substrate 10 has been folded over fold line B-B.
• FIG. 2B shows an exemplary cross-sectional view of the continuous waistband being formed in FIG. IB.
• the fold line A-A corresponds substantially to a first edge of the fusible substrate 12, and the fold line B-B corresponds substantially to a second edge of the fusible substrate 12.
• a portion 12' of the fusible substrate 12 may remain uncovered.
• FIG. IB may not correspond to the center line M-M in FIG. 1A, depending on the symmetry of the fold lines A - A and B - B with respect to the line M-M, and the distances W3 and W4.
• FIG. 1C shows a continuous waistband formed when the materials shown in FIG. IB are folded substantially over the fold line M'-M', which is preferably a centerline of the combined substrates after the two side portions have been folded over the fold lines A-A and B-B.
• FIG. 2C shows a cross-sectional view of the waistband being formed after the folds shown in FIG. 1C. It should be appreciated that, as with all of the drawings herein, FIG. 2C is not drawn to scale and that relative positions and sizes of the substrates are merely exemplary. It should be appreciated that, in addition to the drawings not being to scale, the folds of actual substrates or materials will not be rectangular, and the rectangular folding is shown in the drawings to aid in this description.
• the substrates of FIGS. IB and FIG. 2B are folded over a substantially central fold line M'-M' to form a folded waistband having width W7.
• a substantially central fold line M'-M' to form a folded waistband having width W7.
• the thickness and type of each of the substrates will determine the thickness of the folds and how much material needs to be included in each substrate to accommodate the various folds.
• the fusible substrate 12 may comprise adhesive or the like so that it may be fused with the first substrate 10 under appropriate fusing conditions.
• the fusible substrate 12 has less adhesive or fiber or fabric yarns along the fold line M'-M' in order to aid with the folding.
• FIGS. 2A-2C it should be appreciated that the folds may be achieved simultaneously, e.g., using a folder shown in FIGS. 6A-6N).
• FIG. 3A depicts an exemplary system 30 for manufacture of continuous waistbands according to embodiments hereof.
• fusible substrate 10 and first substrate 12 are fed into a fuser (or fusing press) 32.
• the fusible substrate 12 is positioned on top of the first substrate 10 as shown, e.g., in FIGS. 1A and 2A.
• a guide mechanism e.g., as shown in FIGS. 7A-7C
• the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12 may be provided on spools or troughs or the like which are positioned to feed appropriate amounts of the substrates 10 and 12 into the fuser 32 substantially tension free.
• the spools may be positioned such that the fusible substrate 12 is appropriately located on top of the first substrate 10.
• the fuser 32 fuses the first and second substrates together under conditions (e.g., at temperature, pressure, and speed) appropriate for the materials being used. Those of ordinary skill in the art will know and understand what settings to use for the fuser 32 based on the materials being used for the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12.
• the output of the fuser 32 is a fused combination 14 of the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12, e.g., as shown in FIGS. 1A and 2A.
• the output 14 of fuser 32 is preferably cooled (e.g., in troughs or by spacing between equipment components) and then provided to one or more folders 34 in order to achieve the folds, e.g., as described above with reference to FIGS. 1A to 1C and 2A, 2B, and 2C (over fold lines A-A, B-B, and
• the folds may be achieved simultaneously with a single folder that folds the two side portions first and then does the fold over the M ' - M ' line (e.g., as shown in FIGS. 6A-6N). It should be appreciated, however, that the folds may be achieved with two or three distinct folding mechanisms (which collectively form folder(s) 34). In some cases only one or two folds may be needed, in which case an appropriate folder mechanism will be used.
• the output 16 of folder(s) 34 is the continuous waistband shown in FIGS. 1C and 2C.
• This output 16 is fed into a second fuser (fusing press) 36 (denoted “Press” in the drawing) pressing / creasing the folded fused materials (first substrate 10 fused with fusible substrate 12).
• Press 36 presses the folded substrates to help production of a continuous folded and/or creased waistband.
• the waistband 18 produced by press 36 may then be collected, for example, by a spooler 40 onto spools 42 or may be cut to measurement.
• the spooled continuous waistband 18 may then be cut to appropriate length for use on a garment.
• Fuser 32 may be a Reliant M60 (made by Reliant Machinery
• press 36 may be a Reliant M45 or the like.
• the output 14 of the fuser 32 may be hot and should therefore preferably be cooled before being fed into folder(s) 34. Cooling bins or the like may be provided in order to cool the fused output 14.
• the output 16 of folder(s) 34 is a folded, fused substrate to be fed into the press 36.
• the folder 34 preferably feeds directly into the mouth 38 of the press 36, with little or no gap between them.
• the folder preferably has an extended output portion (35 in FIG. 3A, 35' in FIG. 3B, and as shown, e.g., in FIGS. 6A-6N) that can feed directly (or substantially directly) into the mouth 38 of press 36.
• a portion 34, 34'of the folder 34 extends 8-10 inches (which may be referred to herein as a Roup extension). It should be
• a Roup extension may be shorter than 8 inches or longer than 10 inches.
• one or more standalone folders may be used with a separate flat guide (e.g., 8-10 inches long) in front of it to feed the output of the folder(s) directly into the mouth of the press.
• the flat guide should control the output of the folder to prevent it from unfolding.
• the extended output portion 35, 35' of the folder(s) 34, 34' may be fully or partially integrated into and be part of the folders(s) 34, 34' or it may be a separate component.
• FIG. 4A is a flowchart of an exemplary process for manufacture of continuous waistbands or collar stands according to embodiments hereof, using, e.g., the system shown in FIG. 3A.
• the fusible substrate 12 fuse material
• the first substrate 10 e.g., waistband material
• the result of the overlay is the fusible substrate 12 being positioned on top of the first substrate 10, e.g., as shown in FIGS. 1A and 2A.
• the two substrates 10 and 12 are fused (at S44).
• the fusing (at S44) may be done by fuser (fusing press) 32, e.g., by being fused together under appropriate conditions (e.g., under appropriate pressure, speed, and temperature).
• the fused substrates (denoted 14 exiting fuser 32 in Fig. 3A) are then cooled (if needed - not shown in the flow chart) and then folded (at S46).
• the folding may be done by folder(s) 34 (e.g. the folder shown in FIGS. 6A-6N), and the result of the folding may correspond to the three-way folding described above with reference to FIGS. 1A to 1C and 2A to 2C. In some embodiments the folding may result in a one-fold waistband or a twofold waistband.
• the folded substrates are pressed/creased (at S48).
• the pressing/creasing in S48 may be done by press 36, e.g., by being pressed together under appropriate conditions (e.g., under appropriate pressure, speed, and temperature).
• the fused three-way folded, pressed and creased substrates may then be collected and/or spooled (at S50).
• the continuous tri-folded and pressed waistbands are rolled into 10 or 20 waistband lengths which may then be taken to a production floor where they are fitted overhead or under a waistband machine (that pull the bands as needed) as the operator attaches the waistband onto the pants.
• a spool of continuous waistbands means that, in use, only the first waistband needs to be fed into the waistband machine, the rest of the waistband will follow as needed.
• the waistbands being produced will include curtains or inners.
• the fuser 32 ' in addition to the first substrate 10 and the fusible substrate 12, the fuser 32 ' also takes in a second substrate 60 (for the curtain or inner) and a second fusible substrate 62.
• the output of the fuser 32' is first stream 14' formed from the first substrate 10 being fused / pressed with the first fusible 12, and a second stream 64 formed from the second substrate 60 being fused / pressed with the first fusible 62.
• joiner 33 may be a sewing machine or the like and may require human operation.
• FIG. 4B is a flowchart of an exemplary process for manufacture of continuous waistbands or collar stands according to embodiments hereof, using, e.g., the system shown in FIG. 3B.
• First (at S70) and outer and an inner or curtain are formed.
• the outer (14 ' in FIG. 3B) is formed in the same manner as the combination 14 in FIG. 3A.
• the inner or curtain may be formed in a similar manner (at S72, S74).
• the outer 14' and inner or curtain 64 are then joined (at S78), folded (at S80), and pressed/creased (at S82).
• the folding (at S80) may result in one, two, three, or more folds.
• the combined folded, pressed outer and inner (or outer and curtain) may then be collected (e.g., spooled) (at S84).
• fuser 32 (FIG. 3A) may be omitted (as shown, e.g., in FIG. 3C). If a single substrate is used for the outer 10 in the embodiment of FIG. 3B, then that substrate need not be processed by fuser 32 ' , and it may be fed directly into joiner 33 (as shown, e.g., in FIG. 3D).
• FIG. 5 is a top view of a continuous waistband 18 according to embodiments hereof, produced by the system 30 and process(es) described above.
• the continuous waistband 14 shown in FIG. 5 may be further processed to include seams, e.g., seam 50, as seen, e.g., on some jeans.
• the first substrate may be or comprise, without limitation, a material selected from the group comprising: denim, cotton (e.g., 100% cotton or cotton blends), wool (e.g. 100% wool or wool blends), polyester, polyester blends, spandex (elastane), spandex blend, polyester viscose (e.g., polyester and Rayon or some fabric made from regenerated cellulose fiber), linen or linen blends.
• a cotton blend may be, e.g., a 65/35 cotton polyester blend or a 50/50 cotton polyester blend.
• a polyester blend may be, e.g., a 98/2 polyester cotton blend or a 97/3 polyester cotton blend.
• the first substrate 10 is denim and the fusible substrate 12 is a 84 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser 32 is set to 180°C, speed at 5 Meters/Minute and pressure at 5 bars.
• the first substrate 10 is 100% cotton and the fusible substrate 12 is a 80 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser is set to 160°C, at 4 Meters/Minute with the pressure at 4 bars.
• the first substrate 10 is denim and the fusible substrate 12 is a 47 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser 32 is set to 180°C, speed at 5 Meters/Minute and pressure at 5 bars.
• the first substrate 10 is 100% wool and the fusible substrate 12 is a 45 mm fusible substrate, and the fuser 32 is set to 160°C, speed at 4 Meters/Minute and pressure at 4 bars.
• the fabric for the waistband (or collar stand) may be or include spandex (sometimes referred to as "elastane,” e.g., LycraTM or some such material comprising an elastic polyurethane fiber or fabric) so that it will be able to stretch by itself.
• spandex sometimes referred to as "elastane,” e.g., LycraTM or some such material comprising an elastic polyurethane fiber or fabric
• the fabric used to make the waistband (or collar stand) may be cut on a bias in order to impart a degree of mechanical stretch to the fabric, with or without the use of a fusible.
• process may operate without any user intervention.
• process includes some human intervention (e.g., a step is performed by or with the assistance of a human).
• portion means some or all.
• a portion of X may include some of "X” or all of "X”.
• portion means some or all of the conversation.
• the phrase “at least some” means “one or more,” and includes the case of only one.
• the phrase “at least some ABCs” means “one or more ABCs”, and includes the case of only one ABC.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

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• 2014
  • 2014-09-25 US US14/497,308 patent/US9840037B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2014-09-26 EP EP14858495.6A patent/EP3062648A4/en not_active Withdrawn
  • 2014-09-26 CN CN201480059583.3A patent/CN105764369B/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2014-09-26 AU AU2014342919A patent/AU2014342919B2/en not_active Ceased
  • 2014-09-26 WO PCT/US2014/057890 patent/WO2015065630A1/en not_active Ceased
  • 2014-09-26 JP JP2016521624A patent/JP6456369B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 2014-09-26 CA CA2926936A patent/CA2926936C/en active Active
• 2017
  • 2017-12-07 US US15/835,369 patent/US10464252B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2019
  • 2019-11-04 US US16/673,654 patent/US20200114567A1/en not_active Abandoned

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