WO2014106618A1

WO2014106618A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a soap base and a plurality of polysaccharides

Info

Publication number: WO2014106618A1
Application number: PCT/EP2013/078176
Authority: WO
Inventors: Isabelle Terrisse; Sabine BARRETEAU-VRIGNAUD
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-01-03
Filing date: 2013-12-31
Publication date: 2014-07-10
Also published as: FR3000382A1; FR3000382B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - at least one fatty acid neutralized with an inorganic base or a fatty acid salt, said fatty acid being a carboxylic acid comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, - xanthan gum, - at least one polysaccharide, and - at least one inorganic or organic filler.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a soap base and several polysaccharides

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular for cleaning and / or removing makeup from the skin, comprising a soap base and several polysaccharides.

Cosmetic cleaning and / or makeup removal compositions are commonly used for cleaning keratin materials, especially the skin, in particular when they are covered with makeup products such as foundation. These compositions generally contain a base of liquid soap.

Liquid soaps appeared on the body hygiene market in the 1940s. They are usually soaps of fatty acids of sodium, potassium, arginine, sarcosine or amines. They have the advantage of being more practical and more hygienic than solid soaps.

These cosmetic compositions for the cleaning of keratin materials must have application qualities such as a sliding effect and a quality and quantity of foam, while respecting these keratin materials which can be relatively sensitive (eyes, mucous membranes, skin). In addition, they must have an appropriate viscosity to ensure efficient, simple and enjoyable use by the consumer. In particular, they must be gelled in order to facilitate their spreading over the surface to be cleaned and to prevent them from flowing, for example in the eyes, during and after application.

However, liquid soaps are difficult to gel because of their high pH. As a result, few gelling agents of natural origin are compatible with these bases.

Moreover, these compositions generally comprise mineral or organic fillers. Indeed, the latter allow in particular to confer body, rigidity and / or softness to a composition, and can increase the effectiveness of absorption and release of active ingredients for example at the skin. Thus, these compositions must have a rheology for suspending these charges stably.

Therefore, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions whose viscosity allows a pleasant and easy application by the consumer, and the stabilization of a suspension of charges. The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition having a consistency and a rheology for a simple and pleasant application of the composition, and which is capable of stabilizing a suspension of charges. Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

at least one fatty acid neutralized with a mineral base or a fatty acid salt,

- xanthan gum,

at least one polysaccharide, and

at least one mineral or organic filler.

Unexpectedly, it has been observed that the combination of a liquid soap base and several polysaccharides including xanthan gum, not only allowed to gel the composition and therefore to increase its viscosity, but also to stabilize a suspension of charges.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "filler" is understood to mean an inert substance in the form of solid, insoluble particles dispersed in the medium of the composition. The fillers may also be referred to as "inert particles".

As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as silica, clays, ceramic beads, calcium carbonate, titanium oxides, talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) marketed under the name LUZENAC 15 M00 ^® by Luzenac, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as that marketed under the name kaolin SUPREME ^® by Imerys, or organic fillers such as starches as for example the product sold under the name MAIZE STARCH B ^® by ROQUETTE, corn starch, spheres NATPURE HOLLOW BEAD, CELLULOBEAD D-10 Nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 UD NAT COS ^® by Atochem, the copolymer based microspheres of vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methacrylonitrile enclosing isobutane, expanded as those sold under the name EXPA NCEL OF 551 ^® by the company Expancel, the micronized plant powder (such as fruit powders Lessonia the company) or non-micronized, or the powder grains of rice hulls, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be mentioned as fillers, exfoliating particles that will allow the exfoliation of the skin. As exfoliating particles, it is possible to use exfoliating or exfoliating particles of mineral, vegetable or organic origin. So, we can use for example the beads or the polyethylene powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or as the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Clear 2 by the company Dupont; nylon particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as Eyraud's pumice 3 / B; hulls of crushed fruit stones such as crushed apricot kernels or nut hulls; sawdust, wood flour, cork flour; glass beads; alumina (aluminum oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as, for example, spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the names Unisphères by Induchem, agar capsules sold under the names Primasponge by the Cognis company, and spheres based on jojoba esters marketed under the names Florasphères by Floratech; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least one mineral filler, in particular talc.

The compositions according to the invention are particularly advantageous in that they have the possibility of flowing and can for example be packaged in a pump bottle.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one fatty acid neutralized with a mineral base or a fatty acid salt.

The term "liquid soap" thus refers to the fatty acid neutralized with a mineral base or the fatty acid salt.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, advantageously from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

It can be a fatty acid alone or a mixture of fatty acids.

According to the invention, the fatty acid is a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the fatty acid is a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is a carboxylic acid comprising a saturated alkyl chain, linear or branched, having from 8 to 16, preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty acid is a mixture of myristic acid and lauric acid. The fatty acid is generally introduced into the composition in free form. The addition of a mineral base then makes it possible to perform the neutralization within the composition itself.

The amount of fatty acid introduced into the composition is generally from 1% to 25%, advantageously from 5% to 15% of the total weight of the composition.

The amount of fatty acid is for example 7% of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the pH of the compositions according to the invention is greater than or equal to 9, and in particular strictly greater than 9, or even greater than or equal to 9.5.

Thus, according to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the invention have a pH greater than or equal to 9, and contain, as fatty acid, a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain. having from 8 to 16, preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

The mineral base used to neutralize the fatty acid is generally chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides or else ammonia.

Typically, the mineral base is selected from alkali metal hydroxides.

Preferably, the mineral base used is potassium hydroxide.

The amount of mineral base introduced into the composition is generally from 1% to 10%, advantageously from 1% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

The amount of mineral base is for example 3% of the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a fatty acid salt selected from potassium laurate, sodium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium cocoate, sodium cocoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises a fatty acid salt selected from potassium laurate, potassium cocoate and mixtures thereof.

In addition, the composition of the invention comprises xanthan gum.

The amount of xanthan gum introduced into the composition is generally from 0.1% to 3%, advantageously from 0.25% to 0.75% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention also comprises at least one polysaccharide. In the context of the invention, this polysaccharide is different from the xanthan gum.

It may be a polysaccharide alone or a mixture of polysaccharides.

Generally, this polysaccharide or this mixture of polysaccharides is present in an amount of 0.1% to 3%, advantageously 0.25% to 1% of the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of carrageenans, optionally substituted cellulosic compounds, guar derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to one embodiment, the polysaccharide is a carrageenan.

Carrageenans are a family of linear polysaccharides, comprising long galactan chains, extracted from red algae such as Chondrus crispus, but also Kappaphycus alvarezii and Euchema denticulatum. Carrageenans are essentially used as a thickener, gelling agent and / or stabilizer, especially in food and cosmetic compositions.

Carrageenans include iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan, kappa carrageenan and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, these carrageenans are chosen from the following compounds: Iota carrageenan (Aquagel);

- Kappa carrageenan;

- Satiagel carrageenan lambda / kappa mixture;

- Carrageenan lambda.

According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide is a cellulosic compound, optionally substituted. In the context of the invention, the term "cellulose compound" means a polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues united by β-1, 4 bonds.

Among the cellulose compounds, there may be mentioned non-ionic cellulose ethers, including alkylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, mixed celluloses hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses modified with an alkyl chain.

The polysaccharide is for example chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses.

Preferably, the polysaccharide is hydroxyethylcellulose.

According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide is a guar derivative.

In the context of the present invention, guar is the plant Cyanopsis tetragonoloba. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, the guar derivatives denote the various polysaccharides that may be derived from this plant, such as guar gum. They can be used as a thickener, saturant and / or emulsifier, especially in foods.

The polysaccharide is, for example, hydroxypropyl guar.

According to one variant, the polysaccharide is a mixture of hydroxypropylguar and hydroxyethylcellulose.

Thus, the polysaccharide may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylguar and mixtures thereof.

According to the invention, the composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.

By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a suitable medium for cosmetic applications. The cosmetically acceptable medium is adapted to the surface on which a composition of the invention is applied, such as for example the skin.

The cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition generally comprises an aqueous phase, that is to say a phase comprising water. It may also include other solvents such as glycols, and especially propanediol.

Generally, the composition comprises a water content of at least 70%, advantageously from 70% to 90% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one adjuvant selected from the group consisting of oils, actives, fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents, pigments, pearlescent agents and dyes. These adjuvants and their concentrations are such that they do not modify the properties desired for the composition of the invention.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one surfactant, especially a foaming surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants such as alkylpolyglucosides (APG), amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises at least one oil.

The oil or oils are liquid fatty substances at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba and babassu oils; , sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nuts, marula, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia , arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, the shea butter oil;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R COOR ² and R OR ² in which R ¹ represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl erucate -2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; and

- their mixtures. The following oils may also be mentioned:

the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and at least one alcohol comprising 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by COGNIS company,

fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin), such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH,

octydodecanol,

volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 to 13 carbon atoms.

As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from less a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C ₉ ), n-decane (C ₀ ), n-undecane (On) and n-dodecane ( Ci ₂ ), n-tridecane (Ci ₃ ), n-tetradecane (C), n-pentadecane (C ₅ ), n-hexadecane (C ₆ ) and n-heptadecane (C ₇ ) and mixtures thereof . According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C1 1) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the name INCI dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer;

and their mixtures.

Preferably, the oil is chosen from vegetable oils as mentioned above.

Among the oils, mention may be made of vegetable oils, esters and alkanes.

As a vegetable oil, mention may be made of jojoba oil and macadamia oil.

As ester or ether, mention may be made of dicaprylyl carbonate and dicaprylyl ether. As an alkane, there may be mentioned in particular undecane, squalane and mineral oils.

The amount of oils that can be added to the composition is generally from 0.1% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Among the pigments, the iron oxides associated with titanium oxide are preferably used. Mention may also be made of micas, lacquers and oxides of barium or aluminum.

Generally, the amount of pigments introduced into the composition is from 0.1% to 25% of the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, among the active agents, there may be mentioned sunscreens; desquamating agents; moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; pro-pigmentants; alpha-hydroxy acids; anti-bacterial agents; anti-radical agents; anti-pollution agents; anti-inflammatories; retinoids; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; hydrolysed, partially hydrolyzed or unhydrolyzed proteins; enzymes, hormones, vitamins and their derivatives, flavonoids and isoflavones, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the active agents used are those conventionally used in skincare products, sunscreens, plant extracts, vitamins and natural or synthetic fillers.

The composition of the invention comprises, for example, ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) as a preservative and / or sequestering agent. The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as a product for cleaning and / or removing makeup from human keratin materials, in particular the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is understood to mean skin, nails and integuments such as the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.

The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention as a cleansing product for the eyes, face or lips,

The composition of the invention can also be used as a product for the shower, as a bath product, as a hand-cleaning product and as a shampoo, or for cleaning the face.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for cleaning and / or removing make-up of human keratinous materials, comprising applying at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of human keratinous materials comprising the application of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to the invention to said keratin materials.

EXAMPLES Several cosmetic compositions according to the invention were prepared.

Example 1

The procedure is as follows:

Heat phase A for 1 / 2h at 75 ° C with stirring

- Add phase B

Cool to 50 ° C to add phase C

Adjust the pH to 9.5

Cool with stirring to room temperature and add phase D The phases A, B, C and D as mentioned above correspond to the compounds indicated in the table below. Type% in phases

INCI

cosmetic mass

Active potassium hydroxide 3A

Active disodium EDTA salt 0.1 B

Talc load 10 D

0.8 M hydroxyethylcellulose polymer

Polymeric xanthan gum 0.3 C

Solvent water 75.8 A

3 D solvent glycol

Myristic acid fatty acid 2,3 A

Lauric Acid Fatty Acid 4.7A

The composition obtained is a pearly white gel, stable for 2 months at room temperature.

Example 2

The procedure is as follows:

Heat phase A for 1 / 2h at 75 ° C under agifetion

Add phase B

Cool to 50 ° C to add phase C

Adjust the pH to 9.5

Cool with stirring to room temperature and add phase D

Phases A, B, C and D as mentioned above correspond to the compounds indicated in the table below.

The composition obtained is a pearly white gel, stable for 2 months at room temperature. Example 3

The procedure is as follows:

Heat phase A for 1 / 2h at 75 ° C under agifetion

Add phase B

Cool to 50 ° C to add phase C

Adjust the pH to 9.5

Cool with stirring to room temperature and add phase D

These composition examples demonstrate that the addition of xanthan gum and other polysaccharide to a liquid soap base provides the composition with the ability to stably suspend fillers, such as talc.

Example 4

The procedure is as follows:

Heat phase A for 1 / 2h at 75 ° C under agifetion

Add phase B

Cool to 50 ° C to add phase C

Adjust the pH to 9.5

Cool with stirring to room temperature and add phase D Phases A, B, C and D as mentioned above correspond to the compounds indicated in the table below.

Claims

Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

at least one fatty acid neutralized with a mineral base or a fatty acid salt, said fatty acid being a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms,

- xanthan gum,

at least one polysaccharide, and

at least one mineral or organic filler.

The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is a carboxylic acid comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain having from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of lauric acid, myristic acid and mixtures thereof.

Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the mineral base is selected from alkali metal hydroxides.

Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the mineral base is potassium hydroxide.

The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the fatty acid salt is selected from the group consisting of potassium laurate, potassium cocoate and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of carrageenans, optionally substituted cellulosic compounds, guar derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan, kappa carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylguar and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the mineral or organic filler is talc.

1 1. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising water in a content of at least 70%, advantageously from 70% to 90% of the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, whose pH is greater than or equal to 9.

13. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, as a product for cleaning and / or removing make-up of human keratin materials.

14. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 13, as a make-up remover of the eyes, face or lips.

15. A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for cleaning and / or removing make-up of human keratin materials comprising applying at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 to said keratin materials.