WO2013030421A2 - Procédé de fabrication de chaussure et chaussure produite au moyen dudit procédé - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication de chaussure et chaussure produite au moyen dudit procédé Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013030421A2
WO2013030421A2 PCT/ES2012/070595 ES2012070595W WO2013030421A2 WO 2013030421 A2 WO2013030421 A2 WO 2013030421A2 ES 2012070595 W ES2012070595 W ES 2012070595W WO 2013030421 A2 WO2013030421 A2 WO 2013030421A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
sole
template
last
footwear
cut
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/ES2012/070595
Other languages
English (en)
Spanish (es)
Other versions
WO2013030421A3 (fr
Inventor
Juan María REDIN GORRAIZ
Original Assignee
Redin Gorraiz Juan Maria
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from ES201131447A external-priority patent/ES2432076B1/es
Application filed by Redin Gorraiz Juan Maria filed Critical Redin Gorraiz Juan Maria
Publication of WO2013030421A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013030421A2/fr
Publication of WO2013030421A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013030421A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00—Lasts
    • A43D3/02—Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/12—Stuck or cemented footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the field of shoe manufacturing processes and do shoes ⁇ obtained thereby.
  • Said invention is a shoe manufacturing process, which employs a last, a template, a cut and a sole and comprises the phases of: a) preparation of the cut and the raw sole; b) preparation of the form and template, where the template reflects the negati ⁇ exact vo plant of the mold, leaving both surfaces defined at each point (n) by coorde ⁇ space noughts (X n, Y n, Z n ) of a continuous function; c) assembly of the cut in the last and template assembly, forming a block in which the cut embraces the last and template assembly as a glove; d) assembly of said block in the sole by gluing or injection.
  • the last and the template have a constant traction line, with their heel and toe dimensions always being guided to maintain that traction line with respect to the ground plane.
  • the last and the template have an asymmetric cross- sectional profile with respect to any cutting plane and an asymmetrical longitudinal profile with respect to at least the extreme cutting planes.
  • the insole presents its contoured contour with respect to the contour of the sole and of a certain height that corresponds to the thickness of the insole itself, in the achievement of a peri- metral where the cut is fixed by sewing or gluing.
  • the sole in one embodiment, is monobloc, said sole being configured as a single piece, without joints or the like between several components; in another embodiment said sole comprises an outer sole and a padding, said outer sole being constituted as an open container for its upper part which houses the padding inside, so that the whole of the cut mounted on the last and template joins by its inferior part to the superior of the set of outer sole and padding that form the sole.
  • EP1340434 's patent, referred to a process for manufacturing waterproof footwear, footwear and do obteni ⁇ ;
  • patent US6713006 refers to a proce ⁇ ment construction of footwear and footwear which is obtained by this procedure (which includes in its sole a stiffening soul, and a polyurethane base on which, in turn, polyurethane is injected with prior inter ⁇ position of a grid, the cut being arranged on this assembly, using a sealing ring).
  • the sole has a tensile riveted shear employs staples and nails (metá objects ⁇ licos) and does not use mold: it is given the shape with a leading, with which gives an irregular finish (irregularities in both the right / left feet and numbers or repetitions of numbers).
  • the present invention is charac ⁇ terizada established and in the independent claims, mien ⁇ after the dependent claims describe other characteristics of the same.
  • the present invention relates to a process of manufacturing footwear ⁇ which the desired traction was accurately obtained starting from an irregular form in the plant, developed by perfect scaling.
  • a template is developed that reflects the exact negative of the sole plant that sits on the sole respects said traction with respect to the plane, previously calculated using the heel height and exit control of toe.
  • the irregularities that concur in the current manufacturing processes are avoided, since the cut is mounted on the last and template assembly, the cut being subject to the template by means of a glued assembly , by lateral sewing of edges (strobel type) or by other systems lacking staples or rivets.
  • the footwear obtained in this process has technical advantages over those known: the desired traction is obtained (exactly and always the same). In addition, the use of staples and any other metal objects anchor is removed, raps ⁇ Tando a much greener and sustainable manufacturing.
  • the manufacturing process is characterized in that using a last, a template, a cut and a sole comprises the phases of: a) preparation of the cut and the raw sole; b) preparation of the last and the template, where the template reflects the exact negative of the last, with both surfaces defined at each point (n) by the spatial coordinates (Xn, Yn, Zn) of a continuous function . c) mounting the cutting assembly and mold pla ⁇ tilla gummed or sewn side edges, forming a block that embraces cutting mode glove mold assembly and template;
  • the "first grade” parameters are the standard machine parameters (common to all lasts) and the “second grade” parameters are the variables (in width and thickness) for each type of last.
  • the last and the template have a constant traction line, with their heel and toe dimensions always being guided to maintain that traction line with respect to the ground plane.
  • the heel height is variable with respect to the ground plane.
  • the toe level is variable, depending on the total length of the footwear and the continuous function defines the plant.
  • the last and the template have an asymmetric transverse profile for any cutting plane.
  • the last and the template have an asymmetrical longi tudinal profile with respect to at least the extreme cutting planes.
  • the footwear obtained in accordance with this process is characterized in that the template, which reflects the exact negative of the last plant, has a differentiated contour tucked in its lower part with respect to the last of the last plant so that, in the In practice, the edge of the sole can be accommodated, presenting this differentiated contour a certain height that corresponds to the thickness of the template itself, in the achievement of a perimeter seat where the cut is fixed by sewing or gluing.
  • the cutting assembly mounted on the last ⁇ do template and binds to an embodiment of sole, which is in one piece, thus setting a single piece.
  • Another advantage is the ease of assembly of the sole it is nothing more than attach it to the rest of the compo ⁇ nents of footwear.
  • the assembly section mounted on the last and template is attached to said sole, comprising an outsole and a filler, said exte sole ⁇ rior formed as an open container being by its upper part that houses the filling inside, so that the assembly of the cut mounted on the last and template joins by its lower part to the upper part of the set of outer sole and padding that form the sole.
  • An advantage of this embodiment of the sole is that the mentioned configuration of said sole allows a great versatility of configurations without adding weight with respect to when the sole is a single solid piece.
  • Another advantage is the simplicity of assembly of the sole because normally it is by inserting the padding into the outer sole.
  • Figure 1 represents a general schematic view. elevation of the outer profile of the last, in which the longitudinal curvature of its traction line is observed.
  • 2 shows an overview esque ⁇ matic elevation of the inner profile of the mold, in which the longitudinal curvature of the traction line is observed.
  • Figures 3a, 3b, 3c represent sections ge ⁇ schematic neral in profile form, wherein the transverse curvature of the line pull for different indicated specific slices ⁇ as A3, B3 and C3 is observed, corresponding to the Figure 1.
  • the traction line is defined by the conjunction of the surfaces of the last and the template, both surfaces being defined at each point (n) by the spatial coordinates ⁇ les (Xn, Yn, Zn) of a continuous function.
  • FIG. 5 shows a general diagrammatic section is ⁇ elevational footwear obtained according to the invention, in which are shown all components: mold, template, cut and mounted sole (finished shoe). The cut is sewn or glued to the perimeter seat or contoured contour of the template.
  • Figure 6 represents a schematic general section in profile corresponding to Figure 5, for appreciate the perimetral seat, whose height ⁇ sponds to the thickness of the template is run.
  • Figure 7 represents a profile view of a monobloc sole with economizers in it.
  • Figure 8 represents the sole of Figure 7 which includes a housing to house the template.
  • Figure 9 represents the sole of Figure 8 with a template, in which the upper edge of the sole is below the upper surface of the template and between the inner side surface of the sole and the template there is a space to accommodate the cut .
  • Figure 10 represents the sole of Figure 9 with the particularity that the upper edge of the sole is below the upper surface of the insole at the toe and flush at the heel.
  • Figure 11 represents a cross-sectional view of the sole of the figure in which template and sole include economizers.
  • Figure 12 represents a thin template of between 2 and 5 rom.
  • Figure 13 represents a template with camillon on its lower surface.
  • Figure 14 represents a template with cam ⁇ gloss on its upper surface.
  • Figure 15 represents a sectional view transverse of a sole with the upper edge of the outer sole flush to the upper surface of the padding and economizers in both.
  • Figure 16 represents the sole of Figure 15 whose padding includes a housing to house the template.
  • Figure 17 represents the sole of Figure 15 with economizers only in the padding.
  • Figure 18 represents the sole of Figure 17 whose padding includes a housing to house the template.
  • Figure 19 depicts a cross-sectional view of a sole with the upper edge of the outer sole below the top surface of the padding and economizers only in the padding.
  • Figure 20 represents the sole of Figure 19 in which in the heel area the upper edge of the outer sole is flush with the upper surface of the padding.
  • Figure 21 represents the sole of Figure 19 with economizers in the padding and in the outer sole.
  • Figure 22 represents the sole of Figure 21 in which in the heel area the upper edge of the outer sole is flush with the upper surface of the padding.
  • Figure 23 represents a thin template of between 2 and 5 rom.
  • Figure 24 represents a template with cam ⁇ gloss on its lower surface.
  • Figure 25 represents a template with cam ⁇ gloss on its upper surface.
  • Figure 26 represents a cross section of Figure 15, together with the template, cut and last, with economizers in the template, padding and outsole.
  • Figure 27 represents a cross section of Figure 16, together with the template, cut and last, the template being thin, with economizers in the padding and outsole.
  • Figure 28 represents a cross section of Figure 17, together with the template, cut and last, the template being thin, with economizers in the filling.
  • Figure 29 represents a cross section of Figure 20, together with the template, cut and last, the template forming and filling a single piece, with economizers therein.
  • Figure 30 represents a cross section of Figure 21, together with the template, cut and last, the template forming and filling a single piece, with economizers in it and in the outer sole.
  • the object of the invention relates to a process of manufacturing footwear, and the footwear obtained in said process.
  • the shoe manufacturing process employs a last (1), a template (2), a cut (3) and a sole (4), and comprises the phases of:
  • the template (2) reflects the exact negative of the last plant (1). Both surfaces are defined at each point (n) by the spatial coordinates (Xn, Yn, Zn) of a continuous function that responds to the following equations:
  • the MAQUI ⁇ na has a standard form introduced (for example, for women's footwear, Knight or as a child).
  • the variation of these parameters is the first degree variation.
  • second degree parameters are understood as the variable parameters that are added or introduced to modify the existing standard last in order to provide what the customer wishes (for example, in a mountain boot you have to contemplate wearing a thick sock and it is not the same as a shoe).
  • the variation of these parameters is the second degree variation.
  • the last (1) and the template (2) have a constant traction line.
  • Your heel dimensions (Ct) and toe (Cp) are always guided to maintain the same traction line with respect to the ground plane (Ps), regardless of the size of the footwear.
  • the heel height (Ct) is variable with respect to the ground plane (Ps).
  • the toe level (Cp) is variable, depending on the total length (Lt) of the footwear and the continuous function that defines the plant.
  • Variation values of the heel (Ct) and toe (Cp) dimensions, as well as the total length (Lt) of the footwear for numbers between 36 and 42 in the last lady scale are defined, by way of non-limiting example, in the following table:
  • the last (1) and the template (2) have an asymmetric longitudinal profile with respect to at least the inner end plane (lli) and the outer end plane (lie) of cutting.
  • the last (1) and the template (2) have an asymmetric longitudinal profile with respect to all longitudinal cutting planes, in accordance with the continuous function that defines the plant.
  • the template (2) which reflects the exact negative of the plant of the mold (1) has a distinct outline and tucking the contour of the sole of the last (1) at its bottom for ensam ⁇ better blar the sole ( 4) .
  • This differentiated contour has a certain height (h) that corresponds to the thickness of the template itself (2), so that a perimeter seat (21) is created, where the cut (3) is fixed by sewing or gluing.
  • the cutting assembly mounted on the last ⁇ do template and binds to an embodiment of the sole, which is in one piece (5), and setting One piece
  • its elaboration is simple and straightforward, without elaborating said piece according to known techniques. It takes advantage of the processing of materials known as polyurethane (PU), which allow to include configurations such as emptying or saving. With these, it is achieved that the weight of the sole is analogous and, therefore competitive, against soles of one or several pieces in rubber.
  • PU polyurethane
  • the upper surface of the sole (5) has a housing (5.1) to accommodate the template (2), which facilitates assembly and can provide an aesthetic benefit since the template (2) is fully or partially housed in said housing (5.1) as in the open or closed part of a shoe, such as the heel area of the clogs.
  • Said template (2) which can be ⁇ WANT thickness, normally are the usual thickness exceeding 5 rom.
  • the insole (2) is 2 to 5 mm thick, it refers to a thin insole and is used in thin closed shoes that can also have an open area, such as summer shoes and clogs.
  • between the inner side surface of the sole (5) and planti ⁇ lla (2) may include a space (5.1.1) to accommodate the cut (3).
  • the upper edge of the sole (5) can be flush with the upper surface of the template (2), or it can be below the upper surface of the template (2), or even one part is flush and another below, like the upper edge of the sole (5) is below the upper surface of the insole (2) at the toe and flush at the heel.
  • the cut assembly (3) mounted on the last (1) and template (2) joins a sole (9), which comprises an outer sole (9.1) and a padding ( 9.2), the outsole (9.1) formed as a reci being ⁇ piente open at its top which houses inside the padding (9.2), so that the entire cutting (3) mounted on the last (1) and insole (2) is joined by its lower part to the upper part of the outer sole assembly (9.1) and padding (9.2) that form the sole (9)
  • the top surface of the refill (9.2) has a housing (9.3) to accommodate the template (2), which facilitates assembly and can provide an aesthetic benefit since the template (2) is housed completely or partially in said housing (9.3) as in the closed or open part of a shoe, such as the heel area of the clogs
  • the template (2) mentioned can be of any thickness, usually the usual ones are thicker than 5 rom.
  • the insole (2) is 2 to 5 mm thick, it refers to a thin insole and is used in thin shoes that also have an open area, such as summer shoes and clogs.
  • a space (9.4) can be included between the inner side surface of the outer sole (9.1) and the padding (9.2) to accommodate the cut.
  • the upper edge of the outer sole (9.1) can be flush with the upper surface of the padding (9.2), or it may be below the upper surface of the padding (9.2), or even one part is flush and another below, as the upper edge of the outer sole (9.1) is below the upper surface of the padding (9.2) at the toe and flush at the heel.
  • a shifter (11) as a reinforcement on its upper or lower surface.
  • the template (2) can be included economizers (12), or when the template (2) and the padding (9.2) form a single piece (10) they can also include economizers (13). Also, the padding (9.2) can have economizers (14), in the same way that the outer sole (9.1) can also have economizers (15).
  • the materials are commonly used in footwear, with the use of rubber for the outer sole (9.1) and polyurethane for padding (9.2) being preferred.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de fabrication de chaussure dans lequel on utilise un embauchoir, une semelle intérieure, une pièce coupée et une semelle, ledit procédé comprenant les phases suivantes: a) préparation de la pièce coupée et de la semelle sous sa forme première; b) préparation de l'embauchoir et de la semelle intérieure, ladite semelle intérieure représentant en négatif la forme exacte de la plante de l'embauchoir, les deux surfaces étant définies au niveau de chaque point (n) par les coordonnées spatiales (Xn,Yn,Zn) d'une fonction continue; c) montage de la pièce coupée sur l'ensemble embauchoir et semelle intérieure, formant un bloc dans lequel la pièce coupée entoure tel un gant l'ensemble embauchoir et semelle intérieure; d) montage dudit bloc sur la semelle par collage ou injection. Dans la chaussure produite, la semelle intérieure présente un bord périphérique rentré par rapport au bord périphérique de la semelle qui est elle-même une unité monobloc qui se présente sous forme d'une pièce unique, ladite semelle comprenant, dans une autre forme de réalisation, une semelle extérieure et un garnissage.
PCT/ES2012/070595 2011-09-02 2012-07-31 Procédé de fabrication de chaussure et chaussure produite au moyen dudit procédé WO2013030421A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ES201131447A ES2432076B1 (es) 2011-09-02 2011-09-02 Proceso de fabricacion de calzado, y calzado obtenido en dicho proceso
ESP201131447 2011-09-02
ES201231148 2012-07-19
ES201231151 2012-07-19
ESP201231148 2012-07-19
ESP201231151 2012-07-19

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2013030421A2 true WO2013030421A2 (fr) 2013-03-07
WO2013030421A3 WO2013030421A3 (fr) 2013-06-27

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Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2160991A (en) * 1937-05-12 1939-06-06 Schwartz Russell Plato Shoe construction and last
US2716294A (en) * 1953-02-12 1955-08-30 Schwartz Russell Plato Shoe and shoe last
US3496584A (en) * 1968-11-22 1970-02-24 Arthur Leslie Heath Shoe and shoe last
US3913160A (en) * 1973-04-12 1975-10-21 Herbert Funck Method for the production of cushioned-sole shoes and last to perform the method
WO1998014083A1 (fr) * 1996-10-02 1998-04-09 Hbn Shoe, Llc Chaussure et procede de fabrication associe
US6321464B1 (en) * 1991-02-05 2001-11-27 Georgia Boot Llc Shoe with insole as part sole filler and method of making same
EP1516551A2 (fr) * 2003-09-20 2005-03-23 County Footwear (UK) Limited Forme pour chaussure orthopédique et chaussure orthopédique
ES2273989T3 (es) * 2002-04-19 2007-05-16 Ciscal S.P.A Procedimiento para graduar una serie de cortes de zapato distribuidos en una serie de tamaños a partir de un corte base y un corte de zapato asi obtenido.
ES2278894T3 (es) * 2002-04-19 2007-08-16 Formificio Milanese Team S.R.L. Procedimiento para desarrollar una serie de hormas de calzado distribuida en una serie de tallas a partir de una horma base.

Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2160991A (en) * 1937-05-12 1939-06-06 Schwartz Russell Plato Shoe construction and last
US2716294A (en) * 1953-02-12 1955-08-30 Schwartz Russell Plato Shoe and shoe last
US3496584A (en) * 1968-11-22 1970-02-24 Arthur Leslie Heath Shoe and shoe last
US3913160A (en) * 1973-04-12 1975-10-21 Herbert Funck Method for the production of cushioned-sole shoes and last to perform the method
US6321464B1 (en) * 1991-02-05 2001-11-27 Georgia Boot Llc Shoe with insole as part sole filler and method of making same
WO1998014083A1 (fr) * 1996-10-02 1998-04-09 Hbn Shoe, Llc Chaussure et procede de fabrication associe
ES2273989T3 (es) * 2002-04-19 2007-05-16 Ciscal S.P.A Procedimiento para graduar una serie de cortes de zapato distribuidos en una serie de tamaños a partir de un corte base y un corte de zapato asi obtenido.
ES2278894T3 (es) * 2002-04-19 2007-08-16 Formificio Milanese Team S.R.L. Procedimiento para desarrollar una serie de hormas de calzado distribuida en una serie de tallas a partir de una horma base.
EP1516551A2 (fr) * 2003-09-20 2005-03-23 County Footwear (UK) Limited Forme pour chaussure orthopédique et chaussure orthopédique

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