WO2012167903A2 - Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de gommage - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de gommage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012167903A2
WO2012167903A2 PCT/EP2012/002372 EP2012002372W WO2012167903A2 WO 2012167903 A2 WO2012167903 A2 WO 2012167903A2 EP 2012002372 W EP2012002372 W EP 2012002372W WO 2012167903 A2 WO2012167903 A2 WO 2012167903A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
stearate
polyglyceryl
sorbitan
cosmetic
preparations
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2012/002372
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2012167903A3 (fr
Inventor
Stefanie Von Thaden
Manuela Köhler
Rainer Kröpke
Jens Nielsen
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO2012167903A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012167903A2/fr
Publication of WO2012167903A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012167903A3/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants

Definitions

  • the invention encompasses cosmetic or dermatological exfoliating preparations containing particulate polyglyceryl-10-stearate.
  • Hydrodispersions are known. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid internal (discontinuous) lipid phase in an external aqueous (continuous) phase. Hydrodispersions are - as well as emulsions characterized by a similar phase arrangement - metastable systems and therefore inclined to a state of two in to pass on coherent discrete phases. In a classic O / W emulsion, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents the
  • hydrodispersions contain only very small amounts of emulsifiers or can even be completely free from
  • Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
  • Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
  • one of the two liquids W / O
  • the liquids pure or as solutions
  • O W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the inverse principle, the basic character here being determined by the oil.
  • Emulsions for formation and stabilization generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
  • Peeling (English, to peel) or peeling cure is a cosmetic treatment, in which superficial layers of the skin are removed flatly.
  • peeling In a superficial peeling, the uppermost horny layer of the skin is removed mechanically or chemically. This treatment is colloquially called peeling, many providers call this method as microdermabrasion.
  • Polyethylene common salt, sea salt, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium chloride, sugar, clay, sand, plastic particles, crushed or ground kernels of walnut shells, apricot, peach or almond kernels are usually added to the preparations as peeling agents.
  • peeling agents are solid particulate substances which have an abrasive effect, they must be rinsed off together with the removed skin after use.
  • the exfoliating particles are rinsed during rinsing in the wastewater and it form unsightly crumb residue in the sink. Furthermore, most known peeling substances are not degraded. It is desirable to provide a Peeiingzurung available that avoids the disadvantages listed.
  • cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
  • glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate polyglyceryl-10-stearate
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
  • Polyglycerate M O-Stearate (PG-10 Stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
  • Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1-S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
  • Polyglycery M O-stearate is known from the production of ice cream and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
  • Heliogel® which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
  • PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
  • the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising particulate polyglyceryl-10-stearate.
  • PG-10 stearate is a solid which, as such, can be used in a variety of individually adjusted particle sizes.
  • the preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises a proportion of PG-10-stearate dissolved in the water and / or fat phase of the
  • This non-particulate polyglyceryl-10-stearate serves as an emulsifier.
  • the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
  • the formulations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus fulfill the desire for well-tolerated, mild products without compromising stability.
  • Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
  • the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
  • polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
  • the preparation according to the invention is formulated in the form of a gel or as a cleaning preparation containing surfactant.
  • the preparation according to the invention acts as an exfoliating preparation because of the particulate PG-10 stearate. This means that the preparation can be applied to the skin, rubbed in or massaged, resulting in an abrasive effect and the corresponding peeling effect.
  • PG-10-stearate advantageously dissolves after some time, and the desired effect, the indication of the end of treatment, is thereby felt by the user.
  • polyglyceryl stearate As a peeling agent, which are solid at room temperature and dissolve, the dissolution indicates the end of the application. In addition, can be dispensed with the application of a further cleaning preparation. In the case of PG-10 stearate, it is also an emulsifier that is biodegradable.
  • the preparation according to the invention thus enables a peeling treatment without the need for additional cleaning agents. Furthermore, PG-stearate dissolves in the water, leaving no residue in sinks or
  • the peeling agents are then advantageously selected from the group polyethylene, common salt, sea salt, sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, magnesium sulfate, magnesium chloride, sugar, clay, sand, plastic particles, crushed or crushed cores of
  • the cosmetic specialist since PG-10 stearate can also be added as emulsifier, preferably as sole emulsifier, to the preparations, the cosmetic specialist has far-reaching options for providing individually tailored preparations with regard to peeling activity and emulsion stability.
  • PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases will get the same product. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
  • Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
  • Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
  • the consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
  • a process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
  • PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
  • Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or change in droplet size with time or creaming.
  • the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
  • Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
  • additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
  • Ammonium soaps ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
  • Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
  • Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
  • Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
  • Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
  • Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate Isolan GPS
  • polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Isolan GI 34
  • polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride
  • propylene glycol stearate SE propylene glycol fatty acid ester
  • propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester rapeseed lecithin
  • sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp.
  • Sorbitan monolaurate sorbate 20
  • sorbitan di-citrate sorbitan butucate
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
  • the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
  • Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolyte ⁇ , organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanner, buffers, pH regulators, herbal
  • Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
  • This process is called hot / hot process.
  • Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
  • thermally labile active substances for example natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or else individual perfume ingredients.
  • Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
  • the preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W, W / O, W / O W, O / W / O emulsions and hydrodispersions, where O may also stand for silicone oils.
  • the preparation is based on a O / W emulsion or
  • Hydrodispersion or formulated as a cleaning preparation Hydrodispersion or formulated as a cleaning preparation.
  • Vitamin E acetate 0.1 0.1

Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques de gommage contenant du polyglycéryl-10-stéarate particulaire.
PCT/EP2012/002372 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de gommage WO2012167903A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE201110077053 DE102011077053A1 (de) 2011-06-07 2011-06-07 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Peelingszubereitung
DE102011077053.4 2011-06-07

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012167903A2 true WO2012167903A2 (fr) 2012-12-13
WO2012167903A3 WO2012167903A3 (fr) 2013-05-23

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2012/002372 WO2012167903A2 (fr) 2011-06-07 2012-06-05 Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de gommage

Country Status (2)

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DE (1) DE102011077053A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012167903A2 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014095295A2 (fr) * 2012-12-19 2014-06-26 Beiersdorf Ag Composition de nettoyage par pelage présentant des cristaux solubles dans l'eau
US9717674B1 (en) 2016-04-06 2017-08-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising biodegradable abrasive particles
US10806692B2 (en) 2016-10-03 2020-10-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2909087A1 (de) 1979-03-08 1980-09-11 Beiersdorf Ag Verfahren und vorrichtung zur ermittlung des viskositaetsverhaltens von massen
WO2003082182A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Gels et emulsions phospholipidiques cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques reticulees a base d'emulsifiants contenant des oxydes d'ethylene ou de propylene

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CA2224798A1 (fr) * 1995-06-22 1997-01-09 Matthew T. Scholz Compositions hydro-alcooliques stables
CN1098120C (zh) * 1996-05-23 2003-01-08 大正制药株式会社 微滴乳状液
EP1917956A3 (fr) * 2002-07-25 2008-12-31 Lion Corporation Composition de préparation externe
US20040057921A1 (en) * 2002-09-23 2004-03-25 Walsh Star Marie Compositions for exfoliating skin and treating blackheads
AU2003268771A1 (en) * 2002-11-18 2004-06-15 Kose Corporation Cosmetic pack preparation
US20060127427A1 (en) * 2004-12-15 2006-06-15 Vernice Joseph J Surface coated abrasive material for cosmetic products
JP5394107B2 (ja) * 2009-03-26 2014-01-22 株式会社ファンケル 洗顔クリーム

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2909087A1 (de) 1979-03-08 1980-09-11 Beiersdorf Ag Verfahren und vorrichtung zur ermittlung des viskositaetsverhaltens von massen
WO2003082182A2 (fr) 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Beiersdorf Ag Gels et emulsions phospholipidiques cosmetiques ou pharmaceutiques reticulees a base d'emulsifiants contenant des oxydes d'ethylene ou de propylene

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014095295A2 (fr) * 2012-12-19 2014-06-26 Beiersdorf Ag Composition de nettoyage par pelage présentant des cristaux solubles dans l'eau
WO2014095296A2 (fr) * 2012-12-19 2014-06-26 Beiersdorf Ag Compositions de nettoyage présentant un effet pelage à base de constituants solubles dans l'eau sous forme cristalline
WO2014095296A3 (fr) * 2012-12-19 2014-09-25 Beiersdorf Ag Compositions de nettoyage présentant un effet pelage à base de constituants solubles dans l'eau sous forme cristalline
WO2014095295A3 (fr) * 2012-12-19 2014-10-02 Beiersdorf Ag Composition de nettoyage par pelage présentant des cristaux solubles dans l'eau
US9717674B1 (en) 2016-04-06 2017-08-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising biodegradable abrasive particles
US10806692B2 (en) 2016-10-03 2020-10-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles
US11166905B2 (en) 2016-10-03 2021-11-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE102011077053A1 (de) 2012-12-13
WO2012167903A3 (fr) 2013-05-23

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