WO2012160169A1 - Composition cosmétique colorée expansée par aérosol - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique colorée expansée par aérosol Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012160169A1
WO2012160169A1 PCT/EP2012/059764 EP2012059764W WO2012160169A1 WO 2012160169 A1 WO2012160169 A1 WO 2012160169A1 EP 2012059764 W EP2012059764 W EP 2012059764W WO 2012160169 A1 WO2012160169 A1 WO 2012160169A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
expanded
composition according
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PCT/EP2012/059764
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English (en)
Inventor
Audrey Valois
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2012160169A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012160169A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • Aerosol-expanded coloured cosmetic composition
  • the present invention relates to an aerosol-expanded cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin.
  • the term “keratin materials” means, in the broad sense, the skin, the lips, the hair and/or the eyelashes. Preferably, it refers to the skin.
  • cosmetic compositions are usually in the form of solutions, gels, more or less fluid creams or loose or compact powders.
  • users of skincare products are increasingly in search of products that are pleasant to use and that have a novel texture.
  • Cosmetic compositions of this type are generally in the form of temporary mousses produced just before use.
  • compositions dispensed from a container by means of a mechanical pump connected to a dispensing head are either aerosol products dispensed from a pressurized container, by means of a propellant and thus forming a mousse, or compositions dispensed from a container by means of a mechanical pump connected to a dispensing head.
  • the desired expanded cosmetic compositions do not contain any foaming surfactant and have improved texture and comfort properties on application.
  • a non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in a base composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least one dyestuff makes it possible, after expansion in the presence of a propellant gas, to obtain an expanded composition (mousse) that has good texture and comfort properties on application, and that also has good makeup result properties (homogeneity of the deposit and coverage), and which can achieve this in particular even in the presence of a large content of dyestuffs (e.g. pigments), for which it is known that they can have an impact on the cosmeticity and/or the makeup result of a composition, in particular of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • dyestuffs e.g. pigments
  • the invention thus relates to an aerosol-expanded cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous phase, an oily phase, at least one dyestuff and at least one non- emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight and especially at least 8% by weight of dyestuffs, and at least 5% by weight and especially at least 8% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic storage and dispensing kit that can form an aerosol-expanded composition, comprising
  • a base composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous phase, an oily phase, a dyestuff and at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer, and
  • an expanded composition dispenser for dispensing the said base composition in the form of an aerosol-expanded composition, this dispenser comprising at least:
  • the invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the said keratin materials, in particular the skin, of an expanded composition as defined according to the invention.
  • the expanded composition according to the invention is advantageous in several respects. It has a light, creamy and fondant mousse texture on application to the keratinic materials. It spreads out easily, in particular onto the skin, and allows to obtain a uniform covering make-up, in particular of the skin without visible marks.
  • the makeup or the deposit obtained has a powdery, velvety finish and is comfortable to wear, having no drying-out or tautness effect; the made-up or treated skin is pleasantly soft.
  • the terms “the composition” and “the compositions” mean the expanded cosmetic composition and/or the base composition.
  • the base composition serving to obtain the expanded composition has an ingredient composition similar to that of the expanded composition except for its higher density insofar as it is free of air or of hydrocarbon-based or inert gas.
  • the expanded compositions according to the invention are stably formed in the form of a mousse by means of a base composition and a propellant.
  • the base composition according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous phase, an oily phase, at least one dyestuff and at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer.
  • the content of dyestuff(s) is at least 5% or even at least 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • it will be an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the base composition of the invention (unexpanded) has a hardness ranging from 5 to 40 g, in particular from 10 to 40 g, especially from 10 to 30 g or even from 15 to 25 g, measured using a TA-XT2 texture analyser (texturometer) sold by the company Rheo.
  • the hardness is likened to the compression force (in grams) measured during the penetration at 20°C of a cylinder 1 .2 cm in diameter to a depth of 5 mm and at a speed of 1 mm/second.
  • the viscosity of the base composition of the invention may also be measured. The viscosity measurement is generally performed at 20°C, using a Rheomat RM180 viscometer equipped with a No.
  • the base composition of the invention thus has at 20°C, using a Rheomat RM180 rheometer with a No. 3 spindle, a viscosity preferably ranging from 30 to 55 DU (Deviation Units), in particular from 35 to 50 DU, or even from 35 to 45 DU, corresponding to values ranging from 10 to 20 poises (i.e. values ranging from 1 to 2 Pa.s).
  • DU Deviation Units
  • the base composition of the invention has at 20°C, using a Rheomat RM180 rheometer with a No. 3 spindle, a viscosity preferably ranging from 35 to 45 DU, corresponding to values ranging from 12 to 17 poises (i.e. values ranging from 1 .2 to 1 .7 Pa.s).
  • Aqueous phase preferably ranging from 35 to 45 DU, corresponding to values ranging from 12 to 17 poises (i.e. values ranging from 1 .2 to 1 .7 Pa.s).
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase generally comprising water and optionally a hydrophilic organic solvent, for instance monoalcohols and polyols, in particular C 2 to C 6 polyols, for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • a hydrophilic organic solvent for instance monoalcohols and polyols, in particular C 2 to C 6 polyols, for example ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol or glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises butylene glycol or propylene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition comprises butylene glycol.
  • the solvents are chosen as a function of their compatibility with the desired mousse texture.
  • the aqueous phase generally represents from 35% to 80%, or even from 40% to 75%, for example from 55% to 70%, relative to its total weight.
  • water is present in the composition in a content ranging from 40% to 70% by weight, especially from 50% to 60% by weight or even from 50% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the monoalcohols and polyols represent from 2% to 10% by weight and especially from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the composition comprises less than 1 % by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 0.5% by weight or even less than 0.1 % by weight of glycerol relative to the total weight of the composition, so as to avoid inducing a tacky feel.
  • composition according to the invention also generally comprises at least one surfactant, in particular a non-foaming surfactant.
  • This surfactant may be chosen from all the emulsifiers conventionally used for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.
  • nonionic surfactants and especially esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e.
  • derivatives containing oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated units such as glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C 8 - C 2 4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; oxyethylenated fatty acid ethers of sugars (glucose or alkylglucose); sucrose esters; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids polyethylene glycol esters
  • Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CFA name glyceryl stearate
  • glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
  • Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate), and mixtures thereof.
  • polyethylene glycol stearate polyethylene glycol monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate
  • CTFA name polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate
  • Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • CTFA name glyceryl stearate SE
  • Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: methyl glucose dioleate); the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate); the ester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside and of lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and
  • oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of alkylglucose examples include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG- 20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the product sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA name PEG- 20 methyl
  • sucrose esters examples include sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
  • fatty alcohol ethers examples include polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.
  • sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 1 10 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF; laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by the
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least polyol esters of fatty acids containing a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably glyceryl stearate.
  • the composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen from glyceryl stearate and stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, from
  • the composition of the invention comprises less than 1 % by weight, or even less than 0.5% by weight and in particular less than 0.1 % by weight, or even is free of foaming surfactant.
  • foaming surfactant means a foaming surfactant of ionic, anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic type, such as alkylpolyglucosides (APG), oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulfosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulfoacetates, polypeptides, anionic alkyl polyglucoside derivatives, betaines, N- alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates and alkylamphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.
  • APG alkylpolyglucosides
  • Oily phase The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase generally comprising at least one oil that may be chosen from volatile oils and non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
  • the oily phase comprises at least a first nonvolatile silicone oil.
  • the oily phase comprises at least a first non-volatile silicone oil and also at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is a hydrocarbon-based ester oil comprising less than 40 carbon atoms, preferably such as isononyl isononanoate.
  • the total content of non-volatile oils in the composition will generally range from 1 % to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, in particular from 2% to 30% by weight, or even from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • the non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, which may be fluorinated, and/or non-volatile silicone oils.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ® , squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof,
  • oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R-i represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 2 to 28 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, on condition that R-i + R 2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci 2 to Ci 5 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2- hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyal
  • octyldodecanol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMSs nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms
  • phenyl silicones for instance pheny
  • the composition comprises at least one nonvolatile silicone oil, in particular optionally phenylated polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS).
  • PDMS phenylated polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil and also at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil is a hydrocarbon-based ester comprising less than 40 carbon atoms. This makes it possible to further improve the spreadability of the product onto keratin materials.
  • the esters in accordance with the invention may be monoesters, diesters or polyesters and are more particularly monoesters, i.e. bearing only one ester function. These esters may be linear, branched or cyclic, and saturated or unsaturated. In particular, they are branched and saturated. They may also be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the hydrocarbon-based esters may correspond to the formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a fatty acid residue containing from 2 to 28 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 28 carbon atoms. More particularly, the groups R and R' are such that the corresponding ester is non-volatile.
  • the hydrocarbon-based monoesters, diesters or polyesters that may be used in the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention comprise less than 40 carbon atoms and more than 10 carbon atoms.
  • non-volatile esters may especially be of Cio to C 26 and in particular of Ci 4 to C 24 . They may be chosen from esters of C 2 to Ci 8 acids and, especially, of C 2 to C 20 alcohols or of C 2 to C 8 polyols or mixtures thereof.
  • They advantageously comprise less than 25 carbon atoms.
  • esters may be chosen from a non-limiting list comprising neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and isostearyl isononanoate, but also isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-di
  • the said ester may also be chosen from synthetic esters, especially of fatty acid, for instance purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate or octyl stearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates, and mixtures thereof.
  • synthetic esters especially of fatty acid, for instance purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl palmitate or octyl stearate
  • hydroxylated esters for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates, and mixtures thereof.
  • the ester used in the cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from isononyl isononanoate and 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least isononyl isononanoate.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.
  • the volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and volatile fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially linear or branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes such as C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyl ® .
  • C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes such as C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyl ® .
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 5 centistokes (5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and preferably from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 5 centistokes (5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and preferably from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile fluoro oils: mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention advantageously comprises from 1 % to 40% by weight and preferably from 2% to 30% by weight of oily phase relative to its total weight. These contents take into account the oils that may be associated with the crosslinked silicone elastomers, when these elastomers are in the form of crosslinked silicone elastomer gels.
  • non-volatile silicone oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight and in particular from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 1 % to 10% by weight and in particular from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example, fatty acids, fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, and waxes.
  • the fatty phase may also comprise compounds that are solid at room temperature (20°C) such as waxes, these components possibly improving the stability of the expanded composition. These compounds are either added in molten form, or in solid form in the oily phase, heated to a temperature above the melting point of the solid.
  • These compounds may be waxes or wax-like compounds, for example natural renewable waxes (insect, animal and plant waxes), fossil waxes (petroleum wax, lignite wax, peat wax or ozokerite), synthetic waxes (Fischer-Tropsch waxes, polyethylene waxes or amide waxes), high-melting paraffins, esters, fats, long-chain carboxylic acids, or C10 to C22 long-chain alcohols, each of these waxes having a melting or solidification point of greater than room temperature
  • the composition of the invention comprises less than 1 % by weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight or even less than 0.1 % by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the expanded coloured composition and the coloured cosmetic base of the invention comprise at least one non-emulsifying elastomeric organopolysiloxane (also known as a silicone elastomer). It is more particularly a crosslinked silicone elastomer.
  • the crosslinked silicone elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is conveyed in a second silicone oil (especially one that is different from the oil described above), in particular a linear silicone oil with a viscosity ranging from 1 to 10 cSt.
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer or "elastomeric organopolysiloxane” or “silicone elastomer” means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially with the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractability. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
  • non-emulsifying silicone elastomer means organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerol units.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane that may be obtained:
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst, for instance as described in patent application EP-A-295 886.
  • A2 crosslinking addition reaction
  • B2 of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon
  • C2 platinum catalyst
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy- terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A2) is the base reactant for the formation of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (C2).
  • Compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example of C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
  • the organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear chain structure is preferred.
  • Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
  • the organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and
  • Compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for compound (A2).
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule in compound (A2) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule in compound (B2) is at least 4.
  • Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure, especially in a linear chain, branched chain or cyclic structure.
  • Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (A).
  • compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in compound (B2) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is in the range from 1/1 to 20/1 .
  • Compound (B2) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers and dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
  • Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • the catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
  • organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described previously, for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
  • substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl
  • aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or x
  • Non-emulsifying elastomers are especially described in patents US 4 970 252, US 4 987 169, US 5 412 004, US 5 654 362 and US 5 760 1 16 and in patent application JP-A-61 -194 009.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer according to the invention is mixed with at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil, such as that defined hereinbelow as vehicle.
  • Use may be made especially of those sold under the names DC9040 and DC9041 by the company Dow Corning; KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41 , KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the company Shin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel and Gransil SR DC556 Gel from the company Gransil RPS from Grant Industries; 1229- 02-167, 1229-02-168 and SFE 839 from the company General Electric.
  • a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane dispersed in a dimethicone 6 cSt such as KSG16 from Shin-Etsu is used.
  • silicone elastomer is in the form of spherical particles as described in patent applications JP-A-61 -194 009, EP-A-242 219, EP-A-295 886 and EP-A-765 656.
  • They may be in the form of elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, such as those sold under the names Dow Corning 9505 Powder and Dow Corning 9506 Powder by the company Dow Corning; these powders have the I NCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer; or alternatively those described in document JP-A-02-243 612, such as the products sold under the name Trefil Powder E-506C by the company Dow Corning.
  • the silicone elastomer may be in the form of a silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin.
  • the silicone resin may be a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, the content of which is incorporated herein by way of reference.
  • Such elastomer powders coated with silicone resin are especially sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101 , KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin- Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may also be powders of a hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold especially under the name KSP-200 by the company Shin-Etsu; powders of a hybrid silicone functionalized with phenyl groups, sold especially under the name KSP-300 by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • Such powders correspond to the INCI name dimethicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer and in particular vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
  • the silicone elastomer particles may have a JIS-A hardness of less than or equal to 80 (especially ranging from 5 to 80) and preferably less than or equal to 65 (especially ranging from 5 to 65).
  • the JIS-A hardness is measured according to the method JIS K 6301 (1995) established by the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee.
  • the silicone elastomer particles may have a size ranging from 0.1 to 500 ⁇ , preferably from 3 to 200 ⁇ and better still from 10 to 20 ⁇ . These particles may be in spherical, flat or amorphous form, and preferably in spherical form.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer in the form of a gel in which the crosslinked silicone elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil, in particular at least one silicone oil.
  • the composition may or may not also comprise at least one silicone elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin.
  • the non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an active material content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, or even from 0.5% to 3% by weight and in particular from 1 % to 3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff.
  • the dyestuff(s) are present in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, in particular from 8% to 20% by weight and especially from 10% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the composition will comprise at least 5% by weight and especially at least 8% by weight of dyestuff(s), and in particular at least 5% by weight and especially at least 8% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff, chosen especially from pigments, nacres, and liposoluble and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least pigments.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent particles of any shape, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized.
  • dyes should be understood as meaning compounds that are generally organic, which are soluble in water or in fatty substances such as oils.
  • the pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface- treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder.
  • composition will comprise at least mineral pigments chosen from titanium dioxide and iron oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D&C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.
  • the nacreous pigments can be chosen from white nacreous pigments, such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide- coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or with chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • white nacreous pigments such as mica covered with titanium oxide or with bismuth oxychloride
  • coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with iron oxides, titanium oxide- coated mica covered with in particular ferric blue or with chromium oxide, or titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green
  • the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as humectants, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds and anti-wrinkle active agents.
  • adjuvants that are common in cosmetics, such as humectants, preserving agents, antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds and anti-wrinkle active agents.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into lipid vesicles.
  • the expanded composition according to the invention finds its application in caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips and/or the hair, and preferentially the skin.
  • the expanded composition according to the invention is an expanded complexion composition.
  • COSMETIC KIT The invention also relates to a cosmetic storage and dispensing kit that can form an aerosol-expanded composition, comprising
  • a base composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous phase, an oily phase, a dyestuff and at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer, and
  • an expanded composition dispenser for dispensing the said base composition in the form of an aerosol-expanded composition, this dispenser comprising at least:
  • the dispenser (b) comprises at least:
  • a manually actuated mechanism comprising a pump for producing a volume of expanded composition
  • a dispensing head in fluid communication with the said mechanism, for dispensing the said expanded composition.
  • Such conditioning and dispensing devices conventionally comprise a pressurized container (reservoir) containing the product conditioned in aerosol form.
  • the container may comprise, for example, a valve equipped with a hollow valve-actuating stem enabling controlled dispensing of the product to be applied.
  • the known devices comprise a diffuser that is equipped with a collar enabling it to be fixed onto the pressurized container, in particular onto the valve cup, and with a diffusion head.
  • the head comprises a dispensing channel inside which is housed the hollow outlet stem of the container, and at least one product outlet orifice connected to the dispensing channel.
  • the diffuser may comprise a single outlet orifice and diffusion branches that radiate from the said orifice.
  • the diffuser comprises a plurality of outlet orifices.
  • the outlet orifices may be arranged so as to obtain a diffusion grille.
  • the diffuser is made by moulding at least one plastic.
  • the collar and the head are advantageously made as a piece derived from plastic material.
  • the container is equipped with a product dispensing valve provided with an actuating stem for dispensing product when it is actuated.
  • the base composition is as previously described. According to one particular embodiment, the base composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the propellant is especially chosen from air, hydrocarbon-based gases and inert gases, and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon-based gases, for instance propane, n-butane or isobutane, and mixtures thereof; fluoro gases, for instance chlorodifluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, chlorodifluoroethane, dichlorotetrafluoroethane, etc., and mixtures thereof; fluorohydrocarbon gases; dimethyl ether and mixtures of dimethyl ether with one or more hydrocarbon-based gases; nitrogen, air and carbon dioxide and mixtures thereof may also be used as inert propellant gases in the present invention.
  • hydrocarbon-based gases for instance propane, n-butane or isobutane, and mixtures thereof
  • fluoro gases for instance chlorodifluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, chlorodi
  • the propellant is chosen from hydrocarbon-based gases containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular isobutane, propane or n-butane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the propellant(s) are present in the cosmetic kit according to the invention in a proportion ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 1 % to 8% by weight or even from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the base composition (unexpanded).
  • the propellant(s) are present in the cosmetic kit according to the invention in a proportion of 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the base composition (unexpanded).
  • the degree of expansion (DE) obtained with a base composition according to the invention expanded in the presence of a propellant advantageously ranges from 200% to 600%, in particular from 300% to 500% or even from 300% to 400% according to the following formula:
  • d emulsion corresponds to the density of the emulsion before expansion and "d mousse” corresponds to the density of the mousse after expansion;
  • density "d” of a compound itself being defined as the ratio of its mass per unit volume to the mass per unit volume of a reference compound (which is water for liquid compounds).
  • the expanded composition is obtained according to the invention from a base composition in an expanded-composition aerosol dispenser containing, besides the base composition, a propellant (gas).
  • the dispenser comprises a reservoir ("pressurized container”) containing the base composition and the propellant gas in liquid form and a dispensing head (“diffuser”) for dispensing the expanded composition.
  • a reservoir pressurized container
  • the propellant gas in liquid form
  • a dispensing head for dispensing the expanded composition.
  • a valve is crimped onto the reservoir; it may or may not be equipped with a dip tube.
  • a dip tube is generally present; in the case of an aerosol dispenser to be used head downwards, no dip tube is present. According to a preferred mode, an aerosol dispenser to be used head upwards will be used.
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example 3 comparative (invention (invention with PMMA, with silicone with silicone boron nitride) elastomer in elastomer in powder form) gel form)
  • the coloured base composition in oil-in-water emulsion form (before expansion) is prepared according to the following protocol:
  • Phase A1 is weighed out in the main beaker and the temperature of the contents of the beaker is raised to 70°C.
  • A2 is added with stirring using a Moritz blender at a sufficient speed to create a vortex.
  • the mixture is left to swell at 70°C with stirring until the thickeners A2 have been fully dispersed and swollen.
  • a pigmentary paste is prepared from phase A3 and is ground by three successive treatments in a three-roll mill.
  • Phase A3 is added to the main beaker at 70°C with stirring using a Moritz blender at a sufficient speed to create a vortex. The whole is left to disperse for a minimum of 10 minutes.
  • Phase B is weighed out in the second beaker and the solid elements are melted by heating to 80°C. After total melting of the constituents, the temperature of the contents of the beaker is cooled to 70°C.
  • the emulsion is prepared at 70°C with stirring using a Moritz blender at a sufficient speed to create a vortex.
  • the temperature of the emulsion formed is cooled to room temperature by means of cold-water baths, while stirring using the
  • Phase C is added to the emulsion formed, followed by phases D and E, with sufficient stirring. Stirring is effected for at least 10 minutes.
  • the composition thus prepared is then left to stand for 24 hours, and then expanded with aerosol according to the following protocol:
  • An amount Q of the emulsion is weighed out in an aerosol can.
  • the valve is crimped onto the can.
  • Base composition 95 Propellant (isopropane/propane/butane) 5
  • the leaktightness of the aerosol is checked by dipping it for 10 minutes in a bath at 50°C and checking that there is no emission of gas bubbles in the bath.
  • the diffuser is fixed onto the valve.
  • the expanded compositions 1 to 3 thus prepared are applied at a rate of 0.15 g of product per half-face.
  • Example 1 comparative with PMMA and Nylon fillers
  • Example 2 (invention with silicone elastomer in the form of powder coated with a silicone resin) dries less quickly than composition 1 ; the makeup result is more uniform than that obtained for composition 1.
  • Example 3 (invention with silicone elastomer in the form of a gel in a silicone oil) dries even less quickly and produces the best makeup result (homogeneity, coverage).
  • compositions expanded according to the invention were prepared, with pigment contents respectively of 15%, 12.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the said base composition.
  • compositions 4 to 6 were prepared according to the following protocol: • Phase A1 is weighed out in the main beaker and brought to a temperature of 65°C with stirring using a Moritz blender so as to create a gentle stirring vortex.
  • a pigmentary paste is prepared with phase A2.
  • Phase A2 is added with stirring into phase A1 while maintaining at 65°C, and the whole is mixed until the pigments are uniformly dispersed in phase A1.
  • Phase B is melted and the temperature is adjusted to 65°C.
  • the emulsion is prepared with stirring using a Moritz blender, and the temperature of the emulsion is then rapidly reduced.
  • Phase C and phase D are added. After cooling the formulation to 25°C, phase E is added and stirring is continued.
  • compositions 4 to 6 were measured on compositions 4 to 6 according to the protocols described previously:
  • composition 4 average hardness of 38 g measured with a texturometer
  • Composition 5 average hardness of 25 g measured with a texturometer; viscosity of 45 DU measured using a Rheomat 180 rheometer with a No. 3 spindle (i.e. 17 poises, that is to say 1 .7 Pa.s);
  • Composition 6 average hardness of 15 g measured with a texturometer; viscosity of 35 DU measured using a Rheomat 180 rheometer with a No. 3 spindle (i.e.
  • the formulations are then left to stand for 24 hours before being conditioned as aerosol by mixing.
  • compositions 4 to 6 according to the invention form expanded compositions that are very easy to apply and give a uniform, matt makeup result.
  • composition 5 (with 12.5% pigments) was measured according to the protocol described previously in a 60 ml container with:
  • Emulsion density (before expansion) 1.12
  • Composition 4 was evaluated by a panel of 10 fluid-foundation users, on the basis of the following criteria: application, perception, makeup result, and remanence and comfort in the course of the day.
  • compositions 4 to 6 were also evaluated for their mattness, colour and homogeneity performance, by means of a Chromasphere with a definition of 410x410 pixels, according to the following protocol:
  • the measurements are taken in a standardized manner at 20°C, before and after application with the bare fingers of 100 mg of composition onto the half-face of a model, at the following times:
  • a colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after making up was performed by measuring the red, yellow and luminance indices, a * , b * and L * , respectively.
  • an image is acquired using a Chromasphere, at a definition of 410x410 pixels.
  • the results are expressed in the following manner: The colour is quantified by the red, yellow and luminance indices analysed by the camera (a * , b * and L * , respectively).
  • the colour remanence is calculated by the variation of these variables after 3 hours of makeup (deltaE94).
  • Li,ai,bi are the coordinates in the colorimetric space of the first colour to be compared and L 2 ,a 2 ,b2 are those of the second colour. • Measurement of the immediate mattness and the mattness remanence
  • the mattness of a region of skin is measured using a polarimetric camera, which is a black and white polarimetric imaging system, with which images are acquired in parallel (P) and crossed (C) polarized light.
  • a polarimetric camera which is a black and white polarimetric imaging system, with which images are acquired in parallel (P) and crossed (C) polarized light.
  • P-C parallel polarimetric imaging system
  • the brightness is quantified, by measuring the average greyscale of the brightest 5% of pixels corresponding to the bright areas.
  • the measurements are performed on a panel of individuals, who are kept in an air-conditioned waiting room (22°C ⁇ 2°C) 15 minutes before the start of the test. They remove their makeup and an image of one of their cheeks is acquired using the polarimetric camera. This image allows measurement of the gloss at TO before applying makeup.
  • about 100 mg of the composition described above are weighed out in a watch glass, and are applied with the bare fingers onto the half-face on which the measurement at TO was taken.
  • a negative value means that the makeup reduces the gloss of the skin and that it thus has a matt effect.
  • a colorimetric measurement of the skin before and after makeup was taken by measuring the averages for the planes a * (green-red), b * (blue-yellow) and L * (luminance).
  • Each image obtained using the camera is processed by coxellography.
  • the standard deviation of each monochromatic plane is calculated.
  • the product of the three standard deviations is equal to the coxellographic index. This parameter is used for the statistical calculations. The more uniform the skin, the smaller the standard deviation.
  • the coxellographic index changes in the same direction since is the product of the standard deviations in the three planes a * , b * and L * .
  • composition 4 Composition 5
  • Composition 6 Composition 6
  • compositions (15% pigments) (12.5% pigments) (10% pigments) Immediate matting effect +++ +++ +++

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique expansée par aérosol et destinée à prendre soin des substances kératiniques et/ou à les maquiller. Ladite composition cosmétique comprend, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins une phase aqueuse, une phase huileuse, au moins un colorant et au moins un élastomère de silicone réticulé, non émulsifiant.
PCT/EP2012/059764 2011-05-25 2012-05-24 Composition cosmétique colorée expansée par aérosol WO2012160169A1 (fr)

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FR1154564A FR2975596B1 (fr) 2011-05-25 2011-05-25 Composition cosmetique coloree foisonnee par aerosol
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US61/506,178 2011-07-11

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Cited By (2)

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JP2015147752A (ja) * 2014-02-07 2015-08-20 株式会社コーセー エアゾール型化粧料
JP2018509435A (ja) * 2015-03-24 2018-04-05 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー 発泡性組成物、エアゾール製品、及び皮膚の感覚的な利益を改善するためのそれらの使用方法

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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JP2015147752A (ja) * 2014-02-07 2015-08-20 株式会社コーセー エアゾール型化粧料
JP2018509435A (ja) * 2015-03-24 2018-04-05 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー 発泡性組成物、エアゾール製品、及び皮膚の感覚的な利益を改善するためのそれらの使用方法
JP2020090527A (ja) * 2015-03-24 2020-06-11 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニーＴｈｅ Ｐｒｏｃｔｅｒ ＆ Ｇａｍｂｌｅ Ｃｏｍｐａｎｙ 発泡性組成物、エアゾール製品、及び皮膚の感覚的な利益を改善するためのそれらの使用方法
US10716740B2 (en) 2015-03-24 2020-07-21 The Procter & Gamble Company Foam compositions, aerosol products, and methods of using the same to improve sensory benefits to the skin
JP7019735B2 (ja) 2015-03-24 2022-02-15 ザ プロクター アンド ギャンブル カンパニー 発泡性組成物、エアゾール製品、及び皮膚の感覚的な利益を改善するためのそれらの使用方法

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FR2975596B1 (fr) 2013-08-02

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