WO2011095451A2

WO2011095451A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a volatile linear alkane and a pasty compound

Info

Publication number: WO2011095451A2
Application number: PCT/EP2011/051295
Authority: WO
Inventors: Mickaël Poletti; Christine Meunier
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2010-02-04
Filing date: 2011-01-31
Publication date: 2011-08-11
Also published as: WO2011095451A3; FR2955768B1; FR2955768A1

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one pasty compound of plant origin is applied to the skin, said pasty compound being present in a content of greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a volatile linear alkane and a pasty compound

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile linear alkane and one pasty compound, and the use thereof in the cosmetics field.

For various reasons linked in particular to more comfortable use (softness, emollience and the like), current cosmetic compositions comprise an aqueous phase and one or more oils, and are, for example, in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water (O/W) type constituted of an aqueous dispersant continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase.

These compositions are particularly desired in the cosmetics industry owing to the fact that they comprise an aqueous phase as external phase, which gives them, when they are applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.

Now, over the past few years, the cosmetics market has been marked by a very high demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want formulations that are free of chemicals, over which they prefer natural compounds or compounds of natural origin, reputed for their better tolerance and affinity with the skin, and which are more environmentally friendly. The term "natural compound" is intended to mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, as appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. The term compounds "of natural origin" is intended to mean a natural compound having undergone one or more secondary chemical or industrial treatments generating modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents which may or may not have undergone transformations, as indicated above.

By way of nonlimiting example of a secondary chemical or industrial treatment generating modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (system of reference for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in the manuals recognized in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.

It is therefore sought to formulate compositions comprising fatty substances compatible with the formulation of "natural" and/or "bio-certified" cosmetic products, and which have good cosmetic properties, while at the same time being stable, even in the presence of quite a high level of fatty substance (typically greater than 10%).

The applicant has discovered that the combination of a pasty fatty compound of plant origin with a volatile linear alkane, preferably of plant origin, makes it possible to obtain a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which is stable over time and which has good cosmetic properties, in particular an emollient/moisturizing sensation on application to the skin, rapid penetration into the skin and a non-greasy feel. A subject of the present invention is therefore a method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one pasty compound of plant origin is applied to the skin, said pasty compound being present in a content of greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean herein a medium compatible with the skin.

Pasty compound

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

A pasty compound is, at a temperature of 23°C, in the form of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound is less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23°C, represents from 20% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. At 23°C, this liquid fraction more preferably represents from 25% to 85%, and better still from 30% to 60% by weight of the pasty compound.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, made up of a iquid fraction and of a solid fraction.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is "in the solid state" when the whole of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is "in the liquid state" when the whole of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instruments, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10°C per minute, according to standard ISO 1 1357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C, preferably represents from 40% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, better still from 50% to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measurd at 32°C, is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20°C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyser (for example the TA-XT2i from Rheo) equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is performed at 20°C at the centre of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The hardness value recorded is that of the maximum peak.

The pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound can be chosen in particular from isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference lso-Jojoba-50^®, orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil, for instance Lipex 203 from the company Aarhuskarlshamn, and mixtures thereof.

The pasty compound is present in the composition according to the invention in a content of greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 10%, better still greater than or equal to 12% by weight and even better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight.

The amount of pasty compound can range, for example, from 5% to 40% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, in particular from 10% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile linear alkane

The expression "one or more volatile linear alkane(s)" is intended to mean, without distinction, "one or more volatile linear alkane oil(s)".

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (approximately 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term "volatile linear alkane" suitable for the invention is intended to mean a cosmetic linear alkane capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid at ambient temperature, and which has in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1 .5 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

More preferably still, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

More preferably still, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The evaporation rate of a volatile alkane in accordance with the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can in particular be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described hereinafter.

15 g of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent are placed in a crystallizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance which is in a chamber of approximately 0.3 m³ with controlled temperature (25°C) and hygrometry (50% relative humidity).

The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being stirred, with ventilation being provided by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, operating at 2700 rpm) arranged vertically above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, at a distance of 20 cm relative to the bottom of the crystallizing dish.

The mass of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals.

The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg/cm²) as a function of time (in min).

The evaporation rate, which corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained, is then calculated. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit surface area (cm²) and per unit time (minute).

According to one preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known as saturated vapour pressure) at ambient temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C).

More preferably still, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C).

More preferably still, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention can have a flashpoint within the range of from 30 to 120°C, and more particularly from 40 to 100°C. The flashpoint is in particular measured according to standard ISO 3679.

According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 1 1 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to one advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm²/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin. Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in

14

the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C isotope of carbon

14 14 1?

(carbon 14); in particular, the C isotope can be present in a CI C ratio of greater than or equal to 1 x 10^"16, preferably greater than or equal to 1 x 10^"15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5 x 10^" , and better still greater than or equal to 1 .5 x 10^" Preferably, the ¹⁴C/¹²C ratio ranges from 6 x 10^"13 to 1 .2 x 10^"12.

14

The amount of C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art, such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or accelerator mass spectrometry.

Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant starting material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc. By way of example of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 or WO 2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon) from the company Cognis. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or from palm oil.

By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1 ), n- dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C1 1 ) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by the company Sasol under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, respectively, and also mixtures thereof.

The volatile linear alkane may be used alone.

Alternatively or preferentially, use may be made of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes which differ from one another in the number of carbons n by at least 1 , in particular which differ from one another in the number of carbons by 1 or 2.

According to a first embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and which differ from one another in the number of carbons by at least 1 . By way of examples, mention may in particular be made of C10/C1 1 , C1 1/C12 or C12/C13 volatile linear alkane mixtures. According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and which differ from one another in the number of carbons by at least 2. By way of examples, mention may in particular be made of C10/C12 or C12/C14 volatile linear alkane mixtures, for an even number of carbons n, and the C1 1/C13 mixture for an odd number of carbons n.

According to one preferred embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes containing from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and which differ from one another in the number of carbons by at least two, and in particular a C1 1/C13 volatile linear alkane mixture or a C12/C14 volatile linear alkane mixture.

Other mixtures combining more than two volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, for instance a mixture of at least three volatile linear alkanes containing from 7 to 14 carbon atoms and which differ form one another in the number of carbons by at least 1 , are also part of the invention, but mixtures of two volatile linear alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said two volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the lowest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

According to another embodiment of the invention, use is made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the highest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of the following mixtures:

from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 60% to 75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14,

- from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, preferably from 24% to 40% by weight, of Cn+x volatile linear alkane with x greater than or equal to 1 , preferably x=1 or x=2, with n+x between 8 and 14,

relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight of branched hydrocarbons,

and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons,

- and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight and preferentially less than 0.1 % by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention can be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising:

from 55% to 80% by weight, preferably from 60% to 75% by weight, of C1 1 volatile linear alkane (n-undecane),

- from 20% to 45% by weight, preferably from 24% to 40% by weight, of

C13 volatile linear alkane (n-tridecane),

relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to one particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is an n-undecane/n- tridecane mixture. In particular, such a mixture can be obtained according to example 1 or example 2 of WO 2008/155059.

According to another particular embodiment, n-dodecane such as the product sold under the reference Parafol 12-97 by Sasol is used.

According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane such as the product sold under the reference Parafol 14-97 by Sasol is used.

According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, preferably from 1 % to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 15% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and/or hydrophilic solvents such as polyols.

The amount of water in the composition can range, for example, from 0.5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 90% by weight, better still from 10% to 80% by weight, even better still from 40% to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The water used in the composition of the invention may be demineralized pure water, but also mineral water and/or spring water and/or seawater, i.e. the water of the composition may be partially or totally constituted of water chosen from mineral waters, spring waters, seawaters and mixtures thereof. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case of a spring water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia, dissolved minerals and/or trace elements. These waters are known to be employed for specific treatment purposes according to the particular trace elements and minerals that they contain, such as the moisturization and desensitization of the skin, or the treatment of certain dermatoses. The terms "mineral water" and "spring water" will denote not only natural mineral or spring waters but also those enriched in additional mineral constituents and/or trace elements, and also aqueous mineral solutions and/or solutions containing trace elements prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled water).

A natural spring water or mineral water used according to the invention may, for example, be chosen from Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris- les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise a water-soluble organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and in particular 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, polyols, for instance glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol or pentanediol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8 or dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the glycol is glycerol which gives better comfort on application. Other polyols may be added to the glycerol in so far as the qualities of the composition are maintained. The amount of polyol(s) can range, for example, from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 10% by weight, even better still from 2% to 10% by weight, and even better still from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise a surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, but only in so far as the presence of these surfactants does not affect the comfort (innocuousness) of the composition.

Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk- Othmer", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. a) Anionic surfactants

The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside, soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin are protein hydrolysates containing a hydrophobic group, it being possible for said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin, and the hydrophobic group may in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. As anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may more particularly be made of wheat, soybean, oat or silk protein hydrolysates, containing an alkyl chain containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and salts thereof. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt. Mention may be made, for example, of sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salts of hydrolysates of silk protein modified with lauric acid, such as the product sold under the name Kawa Silk by the company Kawaken; sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salts of hydrolysates of wheat protein modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda (CTFA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol LW 30 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids); sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salts of hydrolysates of oat protein comprising an alkyl chain containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more especially sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salts of hydrolysates of oat protein modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol Oat (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl oat amino acids), Proteol SAV 50S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl amino acid), Proteol APL (INCI name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) by the company SEPPIC, Amaranth S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth proteins), and mixtures thereof.

As alkyl ether sulphates, mention may, for example, be made of the sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225^® or Texapon N702 Pate^® by the company Cognis, the ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 370^® by the company Cognis, and the ammonium (C12-C14) alkyl ether (9 EO) sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20^® by the company Rhodia Chimie.

As sulphonates, mention may, for example, be made of alpha-olefin sulphonates, for instance the sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40^® by the company Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege^® and Sulframine AOS PH 12^® sold by the company Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG^® by the company Stepan, the sodium secondary olefin sulphonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30^® by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates, for instance the sodium xylenesulphonate sold under the names Manrosol SXS30^®, Manrosol SXS40^® and Manrosol SXS93^® by the company Manro. As alkyl sulphoacetates, mention may be made of lauryl sulphoacetate, such as, for example, that which is sold as a mixture with sodium methyl 2-sulpholaurate and disodium 2-sulpholaurate, under the reference Stepan Mild PCL by the company Stepan.

As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates, for instance sodium cocoyi isethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P^® by the company Jordan.

As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyl taurate sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate^® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, for instance the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF^® by the company Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT- 30-T^® by the company Nikkol, and the sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol PMT^® by the company Nikkol.

As sulphosuccinates, mention may, for example, be made of the oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl monosulphosuccinate (70/30 C12/C14) sold under the names Setacin 103 Special^® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4^® by the company Witco, the disodium salt of a C12-C14 alkyl hemisulphosuccinate, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste^® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135^® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) laurylamide monosulphosuccinate sold under the name Lebon A-5000^® by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50^® by the company Witco, disodium salt of lauryl monosulphosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB F12P^® sold by the company Witco, and the ricinoleic

monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333^® by the company Witco.

As phosphates and alkyl phosphates, mention may, for example, be made of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as the lauryl monophosphate sold under the name MAP 20^® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, a mixture of monoester and diester (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31^® by the company Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric acid monoester and diester sold under the name Crafol AP-20^® by the company Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester^® by the company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(C12-C13)alkyl phosphate sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40^® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60^® by the company Uniqema, or the potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09^® by the company Rhodia Chimie. The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be glyceryl ethers, carbonates, sulphosuccinates, tartrates or citrates obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may, for example, be made of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1 ,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET^® by the company Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1 ,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under the name Essai 512 MP^® by the company SEPPIC, and the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1 ,4) citric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC^® by the company Cesalpinia.

In particular, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or totally saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. They are alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal soaps or soaps of organic bases. As fatty acids, use may be made of linear or branched, saturated fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may in particular be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and mixtures thereof.

As basic agents, use may be made, for example, of alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline-earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium hydroxide), ammonium hydroxide, or else organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.

The soaps may in particular be fatty acid alkali salts, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide (KOH).

The amount of basic agent should be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized. Mention may in particular be made of sodium or potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium cocoate or else the stearic acid salts of KOH formed in situ. The derivatives of soybean oil and salts thereof are in particular the fatty acids and fatty acid salts derived from soybean oil (the INCI name of which is "glycine soja oil" or "soybean oil"), and in particular the salts of alkali metals, such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, and of fatty acids derived from soya, such as potassium soyate, for instance the product sold by the company Noveon.

As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of the sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, the sodium cocoylglycinate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, the disodium cocoylglutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, the sodium lauroylglutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS1 1 , the sodium lauroylsarcosinate sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Oramix L 30, the sodium stearoylglutamate and disodium stearoylglutamate sold by the company Ajinomoto under the names Amisoft HS21 P and HS1 1 Pf, and the sodium cocoylsarcosinate sold by the company Zschimmer & Schwarz under the name Protelan LS 901 1/C. Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oat, such as Proteol Oat sold by the company SEPPIC or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl amino acids, such as Proteol SAV 50S from SEPPIC.

The amino acid derivatives can be chosen, for example, from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as the sodium lauroylsarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97^® by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30^® by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoylsarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN^® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoylsarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN^® by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30^® by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE^® by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone Alta^® by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoylglutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12^® by the company Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12^® by the company Ajinomoto, triethanolamine cocoylglutamate, sold under the name Amisoft CT-12^® by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name Asparack^® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates. The derivatives of lactic acids or salts thereof can be chosen from derivatives of acyllactylic acid, and salts thereof (lactylates) such as stearoyi lactylate, for instance the product sold by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2980; the sodium stearoyi lactylate as proposed, for example, by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2990, by the company Karlshamns AB under the name Akoline SL, by the company Uniquema under the name Priazul 2134 or else by Dr Straetmans under the name Dermofeel SL; sodium isostearoyl lactylate, such as the product sold by Uniquema under the name Priazul 2133; sodium behenoyl lactylate, for example sold by the company Rita Corporation under the name Pationic SBL; sodium cocoyl lactylate, such as the product sold by the company Rita under the name Pationic SCL, sodium oleoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate (Pationic 138C from Caravan), and sodium caproyl lactylate (Capmul S8L-G from Abitec).

Mention may also be made of the mixture of sodium cocoamphoacetate, glycerol, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoylglutamate, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate sold by the company Cognis under the reference Plantapon SF. b) Amphoteric surfactants

The amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) may be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates and alkylamphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.

As betaines, mention may in particular be made of alkylbetaines, such as, for example, cocobetaine, for instance the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30^® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name Genagen KB^® by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine^® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, and oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO) Betaine^® by the company Shin Nihon Rica. Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, mention may be made, for example, of the cocamidopropylbetaine sold under the name Lebon 2000 HG^® by the company Sanyo, under the name Empigen BB^® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or else those sold as a mixture with glyceryl laurate, such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or the lauramidopropylbetaine sold under the name Rewoteric AMB12P^® by the company Witco.

As sultaines, mention may be made of the cocoylamidopropylhydroxysulphobetaine sold under the name Crosultaine C-50^® by the company Croda.

As alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APACs), mention may be made of the sodium cocoyl- polyaminocarboxylate sold under the name Ampholak 7 CX/C^® and Ampholak 7 CX^® by the company Akzo Nobel, the sodium stearylpolyamidocarboxylate sold under the name Ampholak 7 TX/C by the company Akzo Nobel, and the sodium carboxymethyloleylpoly- propylamine sold under the name Ampholak X07/C^® by the company Akzo Nobel.

As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), for instance the product sold under the name Miranol C2M Concentre NP^® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl- N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate). c) Nonionic surfactants

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen, for example, from alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), maltose esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobicized gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of glycerol, oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of sorbitan, glucamine derivatives, such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-N-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.

As alkyl polyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic (glucoside) group preferably comprising 1 .2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, for example, of decyl glucoside (alkyl-C9/C1 1 - polyglucoside (1 .4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10^® by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 U P^® by the company Cognis, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10^® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 1 10^® by the company SEPPIC or Plantacare 810 P by the company Cognis; lauryl glucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N^® and Plantacare 1200^® by the company Cognis; and cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/U P^® by the company Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, sold under the name Montanov 82 by the company SEPPIC; C12 to C20 alkyl glucosides such as those sold as a mixture with C14 to C22 fatty alcohols, under the reference Montanov L by the company SEPPIC.

The oxyalkylenated glyceryl esters are in particular polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl esters of fatty acids and hydrogenated derivatives thereof. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from hydrogenated and oxyethylenated glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm Ll-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates, for instance PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and mixtures thereof.

The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid esters of sugars. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen, for example, from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol.

The fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol are preferably Ci₆-C₂2 fatty acid esters containing from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.

The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to 40.

By way of example of fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50 or 100 ethylene oxide units, such as the products sold, respectively, under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 EO; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51 , Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 EO; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 and Myrj 59 P by the company Croda.

The C16-C22 fatty acid esters of sorbitan are in particular esters of C16-C22 acids and of sorbitan and are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with sorbitol. These esters may be chosen in particular from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates or oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates are preferably used, and preferentially sorbitan stearates.

By way of example of a sorbitan ester that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by the company Croda under the name Span 40, sorbitan monooleate sold by the company Croda under the name Span 80 V, sorbitan trioleate sold by the company Uniquema under the name Span 85 V; the sorbitan ester used is preferably sorbitan tristearate.

The fatty acid esters of glycerol may be obtained in particular from an acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As fatty acid esters of glycerol, mention may in particular be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), and glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid ester of glycerol is chosen from glyceryl stearates. Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol monostearate (100 EO), and in particular the product comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda. As sucrose esters, mention may be made of esters of sucrose and of fatty acids containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms, it being possible for said esters to comprise from 2 to 5 fatty chains, for instance sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose cocoate or sucrose myristate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of sucrose cocoate, for instance Tegosoft PSE from the company Goldschmidt, sucrose myristate, such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1416 from Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods Corp., sucrose laurate for instance Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, sucrose laurate, for instance Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, the mixture of sucrose esters and of palmitic and/or stearic acids (I NCI name sucrose palmitate) as sold under the reference Surfhope SE COSME C-1616.

By way of examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sucrose and of fatty acids, mention may also be made of:

- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F1 10, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, denoting, respectively, the sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73% of monoester and 27% of di- and triester, from 61 % of monoester and 39% of di-, tri- and tetraester, from 52% of monoester and 48% of di-, tri- and tetraester, from 45% of monoester and 55% of di-, tri- and tetraester, and from 39% of monoester and 61 % of di-, tri- and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;

- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B370 and corresponding to the sucrose behenate formed from 20% of monoester and 80% of diester-tri ester-polyester;

- the sucrose mono-di-palmitostearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, as described above, which is preferably of natural origin, in which are included the compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical synthesis. This nonionic surfactant can in particular be chosen from alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of glycerol, as described above, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of plant origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example, xanthan gum). This plant-derived polysaccharide may, where appropriate, be chemically modified so as to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkylcelluloses (e.g.: hydroxyethylcellulose). As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of: algal extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof. By way of examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30^® and UTC10^® from the company Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of the sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol^® by the company ISP; b) gums, such as guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxy propyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; as examples, mention may be made of the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105^® by the company Rhodia; the mannan and konjac^® gum (1 % glucomannan) sold by the company GfN; c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables, for instance blond pea, from tubers, for instance potato or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of the rice starch Remy DR I^® sold by the company Remy; the maize starch B^® from the company Roquette; the potato starch modified with 2- chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace^® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure^® by the company National Starch; d) dextrins, such as the dextrin extracted from maize under the name Index^® from the company National Starch; e) celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl celluloses and hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of the cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS^® and Natrosol Plus 330^® from Aqualon; and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1 %, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight. It may be totally free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers.

Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (of the carbopol family), acrylic/alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co)polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methyl- propanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen, Sepigel or Simulgel, or Aristoflex). Fatty phase

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all of the liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, including the fatty substances which are liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) or oils (which form the oily phase), and in particular the volatile linear alkane, the fatty substances which are solid at ambient temperature, such as the waxes, or else the pasty compounds, fatty alcohols and fatty acids.

Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the volatile linear alkane, an "additional" oil, which may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 % to 20% by weight, and better still from 2% to 8% by weight.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, brazil nut oil, marula oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R¹COOR² and R¹OR² in which R¹ represents a fatty acid or fatty alcohol residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R² represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non- volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, or hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil^®;

- silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, especially volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicat.es, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the following oils:

- esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid containing at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms and even better still from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and of at least one alcohol containing from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and better still from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols containing 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC by the company Cognis,

- fatty acid ethers containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis),

- glyceryl ethers containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, for instance 2-ethylhexyl glyceryl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin), such as Sensiva SC 50 from the company Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

Preferably, the additional oil is chosen from plant oils, in particular coconut oil, Babassu oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition (comprising the oils) comprises less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1 % by weight of oils of non-plant origin. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the composition comprises exclusively oils of plant origin.

The composition according to the invention may have a total oil content (including the volatile linear alkanes and the additional oils) ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 60% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the total oil content in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 5%, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may go up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes have a melting point of greater than 30°C and better still greater than 45°C.

For the purpose of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax is measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is the following: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at the heating rate of 10°C/minute, and is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/rminute and, finally, is subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample, as a function of the temperature, is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "hard wax" is intended to mean a wax having, at 20°C, a hardness of greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, and even better still ranging from 6 to 25 MPa. The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive force at 20°C by means of the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company Rheo, which is equipped with a stainless steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter that moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

The measurement protocol is the following: the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +10°C. The melted wax is poured into a container with a diameter of 25 mm and a depth of 20 mm. The wax is recrystallized at ambient temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least one hour at 20°C before the hardness or tack measurement is performed.

The spindle of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm/s, and then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 0.3 mm, the spindle is kept fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at the speed of 0.5 mm/s.

The hardness value is the maximum compressive force measured, divided by the surface area of the cylinder of the texturometer in contact with the wax.

As wax, mention may be made of waxes of plant origin, such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumach wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with fatty alcohols comprising a C12 to C18 chain, sold by the company Sophim in the phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, cetyl, stearyl and behenyl alcohols, laurel wax and ouricury wax.

The wax may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetics field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, fragrance peptizers, colouring materials, fillers or hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and the amounts thereof should be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 % to 10% of the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition used in the method according to the invention comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1 %, better still less than 0.5% by weight, relative to its total weight, of pigments, in particular of metal oxides, such as iron oxides. According to one particular embodiment, the composition used in the method according to the invention is free of pigments.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of calmatives such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden tree water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and salts thereof; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils; vitamins such as, for example, retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E) niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and derivatives thereof such as, for example, esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes, such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts, and in particular plankton extracts; and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additive(s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name Luzenac 15 M00^® by the company Luzenac, kaolin or aluminium silicate, for instance the product sold under the name Kaolin Supreme^® by the company Imerys, or organic fillers such as starch, for instance the product sold under the name Amidon De Mais B^® by the company Roquette, nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name Orgasol 2002 UD NAT COS^® by the company Atochem, expanded microspheres based on a vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer encapsulating isobutane, such as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE^® by the company Expancel. It is also possible to add fibres to the composition of the invention, for instance nylon fibres (Polyamide 0.9 dtex 0.3 mm sold by Etablissements Paul Bonte, or cellulose or "Rayon" fibres (Rayon Flock RCISE N0003 M04^® sold by the company Claremont Flock Corporation).

The compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to the skin (body, face, scalp) and can in particular constitute care products, makeup products, makeup- removing products or cleansing products for the skin. The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All the amounts are given as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated, as appropriate, as chemical names or as INCI names.

Examples 1 and 2: Face care creams

Ex. 1 Ex. 2

(invention) (comparative)

Active material composition

Water qs 100 qs 100

Glycerol 7.2 7.2

A1

Sodium phytate 0.05 0.05

Potassium sorbate 0.15 0.15

A2 Xanthan gum 0.17 0.17

B Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2

Cetearyl glucoside as a mixture with cetearyl

alcohol (Montanov 68 from Seppic) 5 5

Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axoi C62 pellets from Evonik

Goldschmidt) 1 1

Cetearyl alcohol 1.5 1.5

Biological shea butter (Emile Noel) 16 -

Castor oil (pharmaceutical castor oil from Olvea) - 16

Babassu oil 3 3

Mixture comprising predominantly n-undecane:

n-tridecane as prepared according to application

WO2008/155059 8 8

Tocopherols 0.1 0.1 Carnauba wax 1 1

Water 1.13 1.13 c Sodium hydroxide 0.07 0.07

Glycerol 0.6 0.6

Anisic acid 0.2 0.2

Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5

Benzyl alcohol 1 1

D fragrance 0.25 0.25

qs pH 5.2 +/- qs pH 5.2 +/-

Citric acid 0.2 0.2

Appearance of phase B at 80°C before non- homogeneous

emulsification homogeneous

18 UD

1 1 UD spindle 4

Viscosity Rheomat (200 rpm) measured at 10 spindle 4

(i.e.

min at 25°C - 24h after formulation (i.e. 27

approximately

poises) 43 poises)

16 UD

46 UD

Viscosity Rheomat (200 rpm) measured at 10 spindle 4

spindle 3 min at 25°C - after 2 months at ambient (i.e.

(i.e. 17 temperature (25°C) approximately

poises) 37 poises)

Difference in viscosity: 6 poises 10 poises

Production procedure:

A1 is cold-solubilized - A2 is added until complete hydration is obtained.

A1 + A2 are heated to 70°C.

The ingredients of phase B are heated to 80°C.

B is emulsified in A at 70°C.

Phase C is heated at 65°C until it is homogeneous, and it is introduced into the emulsion at 65°C.

The ingredients of phase D are introduced into the emulsion when the latter has returned to a temperature below 40°C.

The emulsion is then poured at approximately 40°C.

Five qualified individuals evaluated the sensory properties of each composition by applying the compound tested to the back of the hand.

The composition of example 1 was judged to provide a more emollient sensation on application and a more rapid penetration than that of comparative example 2, and it also does not leave a greasy film on the skin, unlike composition 2.

In addition, the composition of example 1 exhibits a small variation in viscosity over time; it is more stable over time than the composition of example 2.

Claims

1 . Method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, characterized in that a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, at least one volatile linear alkane and at least one pasty compound of plant origin is applied to the skin, said pasty compound being present in a content of greater than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Method according to Claim 1 , characterized in that said volatile linear alkane comprises from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 1 to 14 carbon atoms.

Method according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-heptane, n-octane, n-nonane, n- undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile linear alkane is chosen from dodecane and tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes which differ from one another in the number of carbons n by at least 1 , in particular which differ from one another in the number of carbons by 1 or 2.

Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising:

- from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 45% by weight, preferably from 24% to 40% by weight, of Cn+x volatile linear alkane with x greater than or equal to 1 , preferably x=1 or x=2, with n+x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

7. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition comprises an n-undecane:n-tridecane (C1 1/C13) mixture comprising:

- from 55% to 80% by weight, preferably from 60% to 75% by weight, of

C1 1 volatile linear alkane (n-undecane),

- from 20% to 45% by weight, preferably from 24% to 40% by weight, of

C13 volatile linear alkane (n-tridecane),

relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 0.5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkanes, preferably from 1 % to 40% by weight, in particular from 5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 15% by weight.

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound(s) is (are) a lipophilic fatty compound or lipophilic fatty compounds with a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which comprise(s), at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound comprises a liquid fraction, measured at 23°C, representing from 20% to 97% by weight of the pasty compound.

1 1 . Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is chosen from isomerized jojoba oil, orange wax, cupuacu butter, shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, cocoa butter, mango oil, and mixtures thereof.

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is present in a content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 12% by weight and even better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of pasty compound ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, better still from 10% to 30% by weight, in particular from 10% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 12% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1 %, better still less than 0.5% by weight, relative to its total weight, of pigments, in particular of metal oxides.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is free of pigments.