WO2011079971A2 - Cosmetics containing euk-134 and/or euk-118 and at least one cosmetic care substance - Google Patents

Cosmetics containing euk-134 and/or euk-118 and at least one cosmetic care substance Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011079971A2
WO2011079971A2 PCT/EP2010/061811 EP2010061811W WO2011079971A2 WO 2011079971 A2 WO2011079971 A2 WO 2011079971A2 EP 2010061811 W EP2010061811 W EP 2010061811W WO 2011079971 A2 WO2011079971 A2 WO 2011079971A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
euk
hair
weight
acid
preferred
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PCT/EP2010/061811
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German (de)
French (fr)
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WO2011079971A3 (en
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Volker Scheunemann
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2011079971A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011079971A2/en
Publication of WO2011079971A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011079971A3/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one conditioner, as well as the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
  • hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated.
  • they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.
  • Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction in melanin synthesis, which leads to graying of the follicle.
  • the complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) and stem cell factor (SCF) ligands into the cell's interior.
  • alpha-MSH alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone
  • SCF stem cell factor
  • Gp100 is a protein of the melanosomal membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.
  • the active substance EUK-134 chloro [[2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis [(nitrilo-CN) methylidyne]] to [6-methoxyphenolato-KO]]] - manganese, ethylbisiminoethylguajacol-manganese chloride, Ethyl bisiminoethyl guaiacol manganese complex, 2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis (nitrilomethylidyne) bis [6-methoxy] phenol manganese complex) exhibits an anti-oxidative effect.
  • the active substance EUK-1 18 ((acetato-KO) [[2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis [(nitrilo-CN) -methylidyne] bis [3,5-dimethoxyphenolato-KO]] (2-) ] manganese) is structurally analogous to EUK 134 and also has anti-oxidative properties.
  • WO 2003/103616 describes the use of an active substance which mimics the activity of DOPAChrom tautomerase, to protect the melanocytes of the hair follicle from cytotoxic agents, in particular those which are associated with oxidative stress (inter alia TNF alpha, TGF beta, IL1 beta etc .). In addition to many other active substances is called anti-oxidative mimic EUK-8.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide active compounds or active agent combinations and compositions containing them which are suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, without the described disadvantages of the methods known in the prior art to influence the hair color or degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair. Furthermore, there is a need for such agents which, in addition to influencing the natural pigmentation process, improve the skin and / or hair in appearance and / or structure.
  • the object is achieved by the provision of cosmetic compositions containing a. EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and b. at least one care substance.
  • the cosmetic contains EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one care substance in a physiologically acceptable carrier.
  • EUK-134 or the agents according to the invention for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.
  • EUK-134 is used.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.
  • Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.
  • Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dye.
  • the cosmetic composition EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 contains 18 in a total amount of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2nd Wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
  • care substances in particular those active ingredients to understand that have a nourishing effect on the skin and / or hair.
  • Suitable care substances are, for example, conditioning agents, in particular skin and / or hair conditioners, preferably moisturizers, emollients, moisturizers, cell-activating and / or protective substances.
  • Particularly suitable care substances are selected from the group of polymers (preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers), plant extracts, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, carbohydrates, quinones, in particular biochinones, preferably ubiquinones, bisabolol and / or bisaboloxides, taurine, silicones, furanones, herbal Oils, urea and urea derivatives, natural betaines, creatine, ectoine, aH yd roxy carboxylic acid, a-ketocarboxylic acid or ß-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form, fatty acid triglycerides, flavonoids and / or isoflavonoids.
  • polymers preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers
  • plant extracts preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers
  • vitamins preferably ubiquinones, bisabolol and / or bisaboloxides, taurine
  • Preferred conditioners are selected from the group monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, taurine, carnitine, carnitine derivatives, creatine, ectoine, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Particularly preferred care substances are selected from panthenol, pantolactone and / or carnitine or carnitine derivatives.
  • the cosmetic agent contains the at least one care substance in a total amount of 0.000001 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.0001 to 2 wt preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. If more than one of the above care products is combined, the stated quantities apply to the total amount of these care substances.
  • the care substance contained according to the invention is preferably at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils.
  • compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
  • vitamin A The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, inter alia, vitamin B (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 .
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • panthenol triacetate the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has become established.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions, which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors contain, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H, with preferred agents being panthenol (( ⁇ ) -2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (Vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-as
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)
  • R as a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono- , Di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
  • R 2 and R 3 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
  • R 4 is hydrogen, a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical,
  • R 5 and R 6 each represent hydrogen, methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical, a group -COR 16 , where R 6 is a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4
  • R 7 is a methyl, a C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2
  • the compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) is (R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-T-butyrolactone and / or D, L-4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or (S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or D, L-2-hydroxy-3 , 3-dimethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl- ⁇ -butyrolactone and / or 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or tetra
  • Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% pantolactone, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0,000001 - 10th % By weight of pantolactone.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound.
  • Natural betaine compounds according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R 3 N + -CH 2 -X-COO " according to IUPAC rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, just as no other zwitterionic compounds where the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge are formally O, S, B or C, but do not conform to IUPAC Rule C-816.1
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0, 1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. , in each case based on the total composition.
  • a particularly preferred care substance selected from natural betaines is carnitine (3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonium) -butyric acid betaine, [(R) -3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl] -trimethylammonium betaine), more preferably L-carnitine.
  • carnitine derivatives can also be used.
  • Preferred carnitine derivatives are in particular selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl carnitine, carnitine fumarate, carnitine citrate,
  • Lauroyl carnitine and most preferably carnitine tartrate are particularly preferred.
  • Carnitine derivatives Acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially preferred L-carnitine tartrate.
  • the L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).
  • carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative is added to the cosmetic agent in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001.
  • 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134 0.000001 to 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone
  • 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18 0.000001 - 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone
  • 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) 0.000001 - 10 wt% carnitine tartrate and with 0.000001 - 10 wt% pantolactone
  • the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine.
  • Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate.
  • ectoine is preferred in amounts of from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.00001 to% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 agents or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134; 0.000001 - 10% by weight ectoine and with 0.000001 - 10% by weight panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight ectoine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% ectoine and 0.000001 - 10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 - 10% by weight of ectoine and with 0.000001 - 10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight ectoine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone;
  • the compositions according to the invention contain creatine.
  • Creatine is the common name for / V-methyl-guanidinoacetic acid or / V-amidinosarcosine.
  • creatine is preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, especially preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
  • 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 agents or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of creatine and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001 - 10 wt% creatine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% creatine and 0.000001 - 10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of creatine and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight creatine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EU
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve skin moisture while omitting comedogenic substances.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert.
  • Butyl or C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or Ci-C4-hydroxyalkyl groups are, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R- ⁇ - R 4 is a C 2 -C 6 -Hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or CrC 4 -hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert.
  • Butyl or C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or Ci-C4-hydroxyalkyl groups are, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R and R 2 and at least simultaneously one of R 3 and R 4 is a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis- ⁇ , ⁇ '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight. %, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably 2 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition.
  • A alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea
  • N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea a crystalline solid at room temperature
  • Hydrovance commercial product from the National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as a care substance at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract).
  • Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience.
  • Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.
  • Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid as a care substance.
  • Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate, preferably selected from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides.
  • preferred cosmetic agents in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they have a care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.75 to 2.5% by weight
  • Carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides, preferred carbohydrates being selected from
  • Monosaccharides (in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose)
  • Disaccharides in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose.
  • compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight
  • compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight
  • the agents according to the invention may therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR 4 - or a chemical bond
  • R, R 2 , R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C 1 -C 6) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (d-Ce) -alkylene group, or a ( C 1 -C 6) -acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, CH 3, -CH 2 CH 3, - (CH 2) 2 CH 2, -CH (CH 3) 2, - (CH 2) 3 CH 3, -CH (CH 3) CH 2 CH 3, CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -C (CH 3 ) 3
  • R 4 is -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 ,
  • n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1% by weight of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, with preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
  • n 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight
  • compositions according to the invention or agents to be used according to the invention contain by weight
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones.
  • preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-Ib)
  • n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula
  • the agents according to the invention may preferably also contain plant extracts (L) as care substance (s). Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • L plant extracts
  • s care substance
  • extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are especially suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • compositions according to the invention or the compositions used according to the invention comprise at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones.
  • Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), ⁇ -glucosylrutin, ⁇ -glucosylmyricetin, ⁇ -glucosylisoquercetin, ⁇ -glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5J-trihydroxy-4'- methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-r
  • Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are ⁇ -glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside. Also preferred are those constructed from two flavonoid units Biflavonoids, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Flavo- noiditsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention or the compositions used according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract.
  • the isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.
  • isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand.
  • the isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
  • the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar.
  • Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose.
  • Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.
  • the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract.
  • a substance mixture obtained from a plant in particular a plant extract.
  • Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas.
  • Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St.
  • apple seed extract contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoiditsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form.
  • Preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids or ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-succinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.
  • Particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid.
  • a particularly preferred ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid.
  • the esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid, ⁇ -ketocarboxylic acid and / or ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a Salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition ,
  • the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention contains as care substance at least one fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture, preferably with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • a fatty acid triglyceride is a triester of glycerol with three different or identical fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid according to the invention is an aliphatic carboxylic acid having a long, almost exclusively unbranched carbon chain and a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acids of the fatty acid triglycerides may carry saturated or unsaturated carbon chains, wherein at least 80 wt .-% of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride must be at least monounsaturated and therefore must have at least one C-C double bond.
  • Unsaturated fatty acids may have a double bond in their carbon chain both in (E) and in (Z) configuration, with multiple double bonds in the fatty acid, both fatty acids with double bonds exclusively in (ZJ configuration, exclusively in (E) configuration or can also be used in mixed configuration, but preferred are unsaturated fatty acids with all-fZJ configuration.
  • Preferred unsaturated fatty acids according to the invention are palmitoleic acid (C16: 1 9Z), oleic acid (C18: 1 9Z), elaidic acid (C18: 1 9E), eicosenoic acid (gondoic acid, C20: 1 1 1Z), erucic acid (C22: 1 13Z), nervonic acid ( C24: 1 15Z), linoleic acid (C18: 2 9Z12Z), Y- (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 6Z9Z12Z), o (alpha) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 9Z12Z15Z), ⁇ -elaeostearic acid (C18: 3 9Z, 1 1 E, 13E) and arachidonic acid (C20: 4 5Z8Z1 1Z14Z).
  • the fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention can, however, also contain proportionally esters of saturated fatty acids with glycerol in addition to esters with unsaturated fatty acids.
  • the composition preferably contains mixtures of fatty acid triglycerides, wherein glycerol is esterified with different unsaturated and saturated fatty acids, as long as it is ensured that the molar proportion of unsaturated fatty acids at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 85 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 88 % By weight, based in each case on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture.
  • Preferred fatty acid triglycerides which can be used according to the invention are a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides, which is distinguished by the proportion of Y- (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 c6c9c12; also (a / - Z) -6,9,12-octatrienoic acid ) Among the fatty acids at least 15 wt .-%, preferably at least 18 wt .-% and in particular at least 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture is.
  • compositions according to the invention contain as fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixture with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • a measure of the unsaturation of a compound or of a mixture of compounds is the so-called iodine number. especially for mixtures, determine the proportion of CC double bonds, where a high number stands for a high proportion of double bonds.
  • the person skilled in the determination of the iodine number is well known, it can for example be determined by the method DGF CV-1 1 b.
  • fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which have an iodine number of at least 125, preferably of at least 130 and in particular of 130 to 150.
  • fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which have a proportion of ⁇ -linolenic acid of at least 15% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride mixture, and an iodine number of at least 125.
  • Suitable fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures according to the invention are, in particular, natural oils which have the abovementioned features, which are preferably of vegetable origin.
  • An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture in the form of a natural, vegetable oil is used in the composition according to the invention.
  • the vegetable oil has been found to be particularly suitable from the seeds of European woody plants, in particular from Borago officinalis L. (borage).
  • Borage oil is obtained either by mechanical pressing from the seeds of Borago officinalis L. and subsequent refining as a fatty oil or by extraction and subsequent refining, preference being given to oil obtained by compression, in particular by cold pressing.
  • a further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture the oil from seeds of Borago officinalis L. (borage).
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent comprises the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture with a proportion of unsaturated fatty acids of at least 80% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture, in a proportion of 0.01 to 10% by weight. -%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent contains.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of use, and selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).
  • Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the
  • Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one in the molecule - carry or -S0 3 ⁇ _) group - COO ⁇ _).
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group and alkyl or acyl group capable of forming inner salts - C 2 4 are.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acylsarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides.
  • the long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as.
  • cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride.
  • Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • 18 - fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having from 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 10 to 15% by weight, each based on the weight of the agent included.
  • hair treatment compositions which contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic ( s) surfactant (s), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula
  • n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2
  • M is a cation from the group Na + , K + NH 4 + , Mg 2+ , Zn 2+ , preferably Na + ,
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are further characterized in that they additionally contain amphoteric surfactant (s), preferably from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimidodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate C 2 - C 8 - acyl sarcosine, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalky
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions, contain as amphoteric T.
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms
  • surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine.
  • surfactants of the formula (I) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (I).
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions, with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants, can be betaines of the formula (II)
  • R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (VII).
  • nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions are preferred which contain as nonionic surfactants alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • Alkylpolyglycosides are nonionic surfactants made entirely from renewable resources (sugar building blocks, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are accessible by acid-catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, especially glucose (or starch) or butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols.
  • alkyl monoglucoside alkyl- ⁇ -D- and ⁇ -D-glucopyranoside and small amounts of glucofuranoside
  • alkyldiglucosides -isomaltosides, maltosides, etc.
  • alkyl oligoglucosides maltotriosides, tetraosides, etc.
  • the average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range C8-C16 is 1, 2-1, 5.
  • alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO - (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
  • R is alkyl
  • Z is sugar
  • x is the number of sugar units.
  • Ci 2 - to Ci6-alkyl groups consisting essentially of Ci 2 - to Ci6-alkyl groups or
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).
  • agents contain amphoteric polymers or not
  • further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.
  • Preferred cationic polymers are, for example
  • Celquat ® quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially.
  • JR® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • cationic guar derivatives in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ® and Jaguar ® products,
  • Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ® HS 1 10, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are available.
  • Cationic protein hydrolysates may also be used as cationic polymers, preferred agents being one or more cationic protein hydrolyzates from the group Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Con
  • hair treatment compositions which - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt cationic polymer (s), with preferred cationic polymer (s) being selected from poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium -37) and / or; quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or cationized honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acryl
  • the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred. in which the amphoteric polymer (s) co-polymers of at least one of the monomers trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylate and / or trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylate and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylat and or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or
  • the agents according to the invention additionally contain polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids in addition to the at least one care substance.
  • the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids.
  • Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, ⁇ Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-s
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain, in addition to EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one care substance, one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • preferred cosmetic agents in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1 , 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or Lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine included.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight
  • hair treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, further preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions are preferred which additionally 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - contain alpha-bisabolol.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the care substances, further substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss.
  • a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight.
  • Hair root stabilizing substances in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole included.
  • Additional antidandruff active ingredients for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione
  • climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level.
  • laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.
  • agents according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • antidandruff active ingredients in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
  • a preferred form of preparation of the cosmetic agent according to the invention takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions.
  • These preferably contain besides EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one care substance at least one monohydric alcohol and optionally contain a gelling agent.
  • a further subject of the present invention is a cosmetic agent, in particular hair treatment agent containing
  • compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol.
  • ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 75% by weight preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents in particular hair treatment compositions, contain exclusively ethanol.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions, which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.
  • agents according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent.
  • a gelling agent Through the use of these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant.
  • agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment agents, which are - based on their weight - 0, 15 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7 wt .-%, further preferably 0.3 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 5 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicas and / or layered silicates and / or organo-layer silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fat Derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC)
  • compositions according to the invention in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ® 1 1-80 is.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: 'vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and Methylhy- hydroxypropylcellulose, starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, shellac, polyvinyl siloxanes. Glycosidically substituted silicones.
  • the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I).
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
  • compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, more preferably 0, 1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • a particularly preferred group of care agents are the silicones.
  • Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Benefits have been observed especially in hair and scalp treatment.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention in particular hair treatment compositions, increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which can be obtained, for example, from reflected in higher melting temperatures in differential thermal analysis.
  • compositions according to the invention cause an increase in the elasticity and, surprisingly, sebum-regulating effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, for improving at least one of the properties
  • a further subject of the present invention is the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 the agents according to the invention for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
  • the term "influencing the natural pigmentation process” means the positive or negative influence on the natural coloration / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. understood biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles.
  • the skin, the mucosa, the hair and its hair follicles, glands and nails especially skin, mucous membranes, hair and hair follicles to understand.
  • the term skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane.
  • Hair or hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair are very particularly preferred under the term skin appendages especially preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles.
  • the influencing of the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influencing at least one partial step of the natural pigmentation process.
  • This influence relates in particular to the regulation of such molecular signals that influence the biological or natural pigmentation process.
  • the regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation process by gene regulation i. the regulation at the expression level, and / or enzyme regulation, i. the regulation at the activity level, and / or the regulation at the hormone level.
  • gene regulation i. the regulation at the expression level
  • enzyme regulation i. the regulation at the activity level
  • regulation at the hormone level particularly preferred is the regulation of melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, preferably of the hair, inter alia, the regulation of gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit.
  • MCR1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • gp100 gp100
  • ckit the regulation of tyrosinase
  • the regulation at the enzyme level includes.l
  • the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated or stimulated.
  • the positive influence preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or excitation or increase) is understood as influencing, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation process.
  • Particularly preferred as regulation at the hormone level is the induction of melanogenesis-stimulating hormones, in particular alpha-MSH and / or ACTH (corticotrophin, adrenocorticotropin, adrenocorticotropic hormone).
  • an enzyme-level regulation e.g., tyrosinase
  • stimulation especially increase in the amount and / or activity of the enzyme (e.g., tyrosinase), as well as any other form of stimulation.
  • the pigmentation process in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle
  • the natural pigmentation process in particular melanogenesis
  • the melanogenesis is preferably influenced in the melanocytes, particularly preferably the hair or the hair follicle.
  • a mere increase in the number of vital, viable or melanocytes capable of producing melanin in the hair follicle or the increase in their general vitality is preferably not included.
  • the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.
  • the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes is particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • This is achieved, for example, by an increase in gene expression of signaling molecules such as MCR1 (Melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit achieved.
  • the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention.
  • melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes is preferably stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.
  • the stimulation of the pigmentation means in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.
  • compositions according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 are suitable for stimulating or improving the pigmentation of the hair.
  • the hair is maintained during the application (improved).
  • hair granulation, in particular of human hair is prevented, preferably substantially prevented, and / or reduced by the compositions according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18.
  • hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.
  • a prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying.
  • hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.
  • hair that has already been grayed out is repigmented by the use according to the invention of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 or the agents according to the invention.
  • the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic.
  • the use according to the invention which aims at the hair growth caused by the natural aging process, in particular non-diseased hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use which does not represent a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease, thus being non-therapeutic.
  • the use according to the invention takes place topically, ie by application to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or scalp, in particular the scalp.
  • already gray hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 or the agents according to the invention.
  • the agents according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 are capable of positively influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, in particular stimulate.
  • the combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner.
  • a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.
  • the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages.
  • this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle.
  • the compositions used in the invention are suitable for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, preferably in melanocytes, and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 is brought into contact with hair and / or skin topically.
  • Example 1 is intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it.
  • Example 1 is intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it.
  • the ligands involved in melanogenesis such as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone alpha) bind to various receptors, by which the corresponding signal is transmitted to the cell interior.
  • the receptor for SCF is ckit
  • the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1).
  • MCR-1 melanocortin receptor 1
  • Gp100 is a protein found and stabilized in the membrane of melanosomes. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive influence on melanogenesis, there is an increase in the number of melanosomes required for transport. A substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore a pigment stimulating agent.
  • Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which both cause gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and also induce gene expression of gp100.
  • the determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.
  • RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription.
  • the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal.
  • the fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to the O-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed.
  • gp100 In addition to the induction of gene expression, translation into the corresponding proteins is also important for influencing cellular mechanisms.
  • the expression of gp100 was therefore additionally detected at the protein level by Western Blot technique.
  • Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its true color, whereby the coloration is produced by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complicated and often regulated synthesis process. First, tyrosine is converted by the enzyme tyrosinase into L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then through several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments.
  • L-DOPA L-dihydroxyphenylalanine
  • An active agent which positively influences melanogenesis and leads to an increased melanin content in hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, preventing hair graying and / or stimulating pigmentation.
  • Table 3 Melanin content in organotypic hair follicle cell cultures after treatment with EUK-134
  • the melanin content of the organotypic hair follicle cell cultures could be induced compared to the untreated control.
  • the values differ highly significantly (p-value determined by Student t-test), at a use concentration of 0.1% significantly from the control value.

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Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetics containing EUK-134 and/or EUK-118 and at least one cosmetic care substance, as well as the use of EUK-134 and/or EUK-118 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and/or skin appendages.

Description

„Kosmetische Mittel, enthaltend EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 und mindestens einen Pflegestoff "Cosmetic products containing EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one conditioner
Die Erfindung betrifft kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 und mindestens einen Pflegestoff, sowie die Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden. The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one conditioner, as well as the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
Haare besitzen neben ihrer eigentlichen physiologischen Aufgabe wie Wärmeisolierung und Lichtschutz eine nicht zu unterschätzende psychosoziale Funktion. Sie dienen unter anderem als Mittel der zwischenmenschlichen Kommunikation und stellen ein Zeichen der eigenen Individualität dar. Veränderungen, wie beispielsweise die Ergrauung, können zu einer massiven Beeinträchtigung des Selbstbewusstseins der betroffenen Person führen. In addition to their actual physiological tasks such as thermal insulation and light protection, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.
Bisher werden nicht die Ursachen der Haarergrauung bekämpft, sondern die Haare zur Grauabdeckung mit Hilfe von chemischen oft aggressiven und damit das Haar schädigenden Colorationen behandelt. Darüber hinaus beklagen Kunden häufig mangelnde Verträglichkeit (Jucken, Brennen, Stechen) und Nachhaltigkeit (Ansatz muss regelmäßig nachgefärbt werden). Die Wirksamkeit der zurzeit vereinzelt auf dem Markt befindlichen biologischen Produkte ist wissenschaftlich nicht erwiesen und oft zweifelhaft. Signifikant wirksame, biologisch aktive Wirkstoffe, die den Ergrauungsprozess direkt an der Wurzel beeinflussen, kommen nicht zum Einsatz.  So far, the causes of hair graying are not combated, but the hair is treated for gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and thus damaging the hair colorations. In addition, customers often complain of lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be re-dyed regularly). The effectiveness of currently isolated on the market biological products is not scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the graying process directly at the root, are not used.
Die Pigmentierung im Haarfollikel wird durch ein definiertes komplexes Set molekularer Signale gesteuert. Da die Melanogenese in ergrauten Follikeln offensichtlich beeinflusst ist, kann davon ausgegangen werden, dass im ergrauten Follikel Teile dieses Netzwerkes in ihrer Funktion modifiziert sind. Eine Folgeerscheinung ist die Verminderung der der Melaninsynthese, die zum Ergrauen des Follikels führt. Zu dem komplexen Set molekularer Signale, die die Melanogenese beeinflussen, gehören unter anderem die Expression von MCR1 (Melanocortinrezeptor 1 ), gp100 sowie ckit. MCR1 und ckit sind Rezeptoren, die Schlüsselsignale der Melanogenese durch die Bindung ihrer Liganden alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) und stem cell factor (SCF) ins Zellinnere weiterleiten. Gp100 ist ein Protein der Melanosomenmembran und reguliert darüber hinaus weitere melanogneserelevante Proteine. Da diese Parameter von essentieller Bedeutung bei der Haarfollikelpigmentierung sind, ist es von Vorteil, diese Parameter zu beeinflussen, wenn durch die Anwendung einer Testformulierung die Melaninsynthese in den Haarfollikelzellen aufrechterhalten oder reaktiviert werden soll. Durch geeignete Wirkstoffformulierungen die Pigmentierung und damit Jugendlichkeit der Haare zu erhalten, ist eine Herausforderung für die kosmetische Forschung.  Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction in melanin synthesis, which leads to graying of the follicle. The complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) and stem cell factor (SCF) ligands into the cell's interior. Gp100 is a protein of the melanosomal membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.
Der Wirkstoff EUK-134 (Chloro[[2,2'-[1 ,2-ethandiylbis[(nitrilo-KN)methylidyn]]bis[6- methoxyphenolato-KO]]]-Mangan, Ethylbisiminoethylguajacol-Mangan Chlorid, Ethylbisiminoehtylguaiacol-Mangan-Komplex, 2,2'-[1 ,2-ethandiylbis(nitrilomethylidyne)bis [6- methoxy]-phenol Mangan Komplex) zeigt eine anti-oxidative Wirkung. The active substance EUK-134 (chloro [[2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis [(nitrilo-CN) methylidyne]] to [6-methoxyphenolato-KO]]] - manganese, ethylbisiminoethylguajacol-manganese chloride, Ethyl bisiminoethyl guaiacol manganese complex, 2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis (nitrilomethylidyne) bis [6-methoxy] phenol manganese complex) exhibits an anti-oxidative effect.
Der Wirkstoff EUK-1 18 ((acetato-KO)[[2,2'-[1 ,2-ethanediylbis[(nitrilo-KN)-methylidyne]-bis[3,5- dimethoxyphenolato-KO]](2-)]-manganese) ist strukturell analog zu EUK 134 und weist ebenfalls anti-oxidative Eigenschaften auf.  The active substance EUK-1 18 ((acetato-KO) [[2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis [(nitrilo-CN) -methylidyne] bis [3,5-dimethoxyphenolato-KO]] (2-) ] manganese) is structurally analogous to EUK 134 and also has anti-oxidative properties.
Die WO 2003/103616 beschreibt die Verwendung eines Wirkstoffs, der die Aktivität der DOPAChrom-Tautomerase nachahmt, zum Schutz der Melanozyten des Haarfollikels vor cytotoxischen Agentien, insbesondere solchen die mit oxidativem Stress verknüpft sind ( u. a. TNF alpha, TGF-beta, IL1 beta etc.). Neben vielen anderen Wirkstoffen wird als anti-oxidativ wirkendes Mimetikum EUK-8 genannt.  WO 2003/103616 describes the use of an active substance which mimics the activity of DOPAChrom tautomerase, to protect the melanocytes of the hair follicle from cytotoxic agents, in particular those which are associated with oxidative stress (inter alia TNF alpha, TGF beta, IL1 beta etc .). In addition to many other active substances is called anti-oxidative mimic EUK-8.
Die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung ist es daher, Wirkstoffe bzw. Wirkstoffkombinationen und Mittel, enthaltend diese, bereitzustellen, die geeignet sind, den natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozess, insbesondere im Haar bzw. Haarfollikel, zu beeinflussen, ohne die beschriebenen Nachteile der im Stand der Technik bekannten Methoden zur Beeinflussung von Haarfarbe bzw. Haarergrauungs- grad und jugendlichem Aussehen des Haares aufzuweisen. Weiterhin besteht der Bedarf an solchen Mitteln, die zusätzlich zur beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses, Haut und/oder Haar in Aussehen und/oder Struktur verbessern.  The object of the present invention is therefore to provide active compounds or active agent combinations and compositions containing them which are suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, without the described disadvantages of the methods known in the prior art to influence the hair color or degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair. Furthermore, there is a need for such agents which, in addition to influencing the natural pigmentation process, improve the skin and / or hair in appearance and / or structure.
Die Aufgabe wird gelöst durch die Bereitstellung kosmetischer Mittel, enthaltend a. EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 und b. mindestens einen Pflegestoff.  The object is achieved by the provision of cosmetic compositions containing a. EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and b. at least one care substance.
Bevorzugt enthält das kosmetische Mittel EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 sowie mindestens einen Pflegestoff in einem physiologisch verträglichen Träger.  Preferably, the cosmetic contains EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one care substance in a physiologically acceptable carrier.
Weiterhin wird die Aufgabe gelöst durch die Verwendung von EUK-134 bzw. den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden.  Furthermore, the object is achieved by the use of EUK-134 or the agents according to the invention for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.
Besonders bevorzugt wird in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mitteln bzw. bei den erfindungsgemäßen Verwendungen EUK-134, ohne EUK-1 18, eingesetzt.  Particularly preferred in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention or in the uses according to the invention EUK-134, without EUK-1 18, is used.
Die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel zeigen über die Beeinflussung der natürlichen Pigmentierung hinaus verbesserte Pflegeeffekte an Haut und Haar.  In addition to influencing the natural pigmentation, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.
Besonders an keratinischen Fasern sind die positiven Effekte deutlich ausgeprägt, so dass bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel sind. Haarbehandlungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Haarfärbemittel, Blondiermittel, Haarshampoos, Haarkonditionierer, konditionierende Shampoos, Haarsprays, Haarspülungen, Haarkuren, Haarpackungen, Haar-Tonics, Dauerwell-Fixierlösungen, Haarfärbe- shampoos, Haarfärbemittel, Haarfestiger, Haarlegemittel, Haarstyling-Zubereitungen, Fönwell- Lotionen, Schaumfestiger, Haargele, Haarwachse oder deren Kombinationen. Besonders bevorzugte Haarbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet sind, dass sie als Shampoo, Haar-Tonics, Haarkur, Haarspülung, Haarschaum, Haarfestiger, Haarspray, Haargel und/oder Haarfärbe mitte konfektioniert sind. Im Hinblick auf die Tatsache, dass der Verbraucher aus Zeit- und Bequemlichkeitsgründen oft die Anwendung mehrerer unterschiedlicher Mittel und/oder mehrere Anwendungsschritte scheut, sind diese Mittel besonders vorteilhaft. Especially on keratinic fibers, the positive effects are clearly pronounced, so that preferred inventive cosmetic agents, especially hair treatment agents. Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair coloring shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving Lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dye. In view of the fact that the consumer For reasons of convenience, the use of several different means and / or several application steps often shies, these means are particularly advantageous.
Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthält das kosmetischen Mittel EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,00001 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,0001 - 2 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,001 - 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 contains 18 in a total amount of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2nd Wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.
Als Pflegestoff im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind insbesondere solche Wirkstoffe zu verstehen, die einen pflegenden Effekt auf die Haut und/oder das Haar besitzen. Geeignete Pflegestoffe sind beispielsweise Konditioniermittel, insbesondere Haut- und/der Haarkonditioniermittel, bevorzugt Feuchthaltemittel, Emollientien, Moisturizer, zellaktivitierende und/oder -schützende Substanzen.  As a care substance in the context of the present invention are in particular those active ingredients to understand that have a nourishing effect on the skin and / or hair. Suitable care substances are, for example, conditioning agents, in particular skin and / or hair conditioners, preferably moisturizers, emollients, moisturizers, cell-activating and / or protective substances.
Besonders geeignete Pflegestoffe sind ausgewählt aus der Gruppe Polymere (bevorzugt kationische und/oder amphothere Polymere), Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Provitamine oder Vitaminvorstufen, Kohlenhydrate, Chinone, insbesondere Biochinone, bevorzugt Ubichinone, Bisabolol und/oder Bisaboloxiden, Taurin, Silikone, Furanone, pflanzliche Öle, Harnstoff und Harnstoffderivate, natürliche Betaine, Kreatin, Ectoin, a-H yd roxy carbonsäure, a-Ketocarbonsäure oder ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure oder deren Ester-, Lacton- oder Salzform, Fettsäuretriglyceride, Flavonoide und/oder Isoflavonoide.  Particularly suitable care substances are selected from the group of polymers (preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers), plant extracts, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, carbohydrates, quinones, in particular biochinones, preferably ubiquinones, bisabolol and / or bisaboloxides, taurine, silicones, furanones, herbal Oils, urea and urea derivatives, natural betaines, creatine, ectoine, aH yd roxy carboxylic acid, a-ketocarboxylic acid or ß-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form, fatty acid triglycerides, flavonoids and / or isoflavonoids.
Bevorzugte Pflegestoffe sind ausgewählt aus der Gruppe Monosaccharide, Disaccharide, Oligosaccharide, Taurin, Carnitin, Carnitinderivate, Kreatin, Ectoin, Panthenol und Pantolacton. Besonders bevorzugte Pflegestoffe sind ausgewählt aus Panthenol, Pantolacton und/oder Carnitin bzw. Carnitinderivate.  Preferred conditioners are selected from the group monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, taurine, carnitine, carnitine derivatives, creatine, ectoine, panthenol and pantolactone. Particularly preferred care substances are selected from panthenol, pantolactone and / or carnitine or carnitine derivatives.
Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthält das kosmetischen Mittel den mindestens einen Pflegestoff in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,00001 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,0001 - 2 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,001 - 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels. Wenn mehrere der genannten Pflegestoffe kombiniert werden, gelten die angegebenen Mengen für die Gesamtmenge dieser Pflegestoffe. Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform ist der erfindungsgemäß enthaltene Pflegestoff bevorzugt mindestens ein Haarkonditioniermittel, ausgewählt aus kationischen Polymeren, kationischen Tensiden, Silikonen und/oder pflanzlichen Ölen.  According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent contains the at least one care substance in a total amount of 0.000001 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.00001 to 5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.0001 to 2 wt preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. If more than one of the above care products is combined, the stated quantities apply to the total amount of these care substances. According to a preferred embodiment, the care substance contained according to the invention is preferably at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils.
Eine weitere ganz besonders bevorzugte Gruppe von Pflegestoffen der erfindungsgemäßen Mittel sind Vitamine, Provitamine oder Vitaminvorstufen. Diese werden nachfolgend beschrieben:  Another very particularly preferred group of care agents of the compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:
Zur Gruppe der als Vitamin A bezeichneten Substanzen gehören das Retinol (Vitamin A-ι) sowie das 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2). Das ß-Carotin ist das Provitamin des Retinols. Als Vitamin A-Komponente kommen erfindungsgemäß beispielsweise Vitamin A-Säure und deren Ester, Vitamin A-Aldehyd und Vitamin A-Alkohol sowie dessen Ester wie das Palmitat und das Acetat in Betracht. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Vitamin A-Komponente bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung. Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören u. a. Vitamin B-ι (Thiamin), Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin), Vitamin B3. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist. Ebenfalls dazu gehört Vitamin B5 (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthe- nolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B5-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1 - 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. Weiterhin kann Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal) eingesetzt werden. Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure). Vitamin C wird in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel eingesetzt. Die Verwendung in Form des Palmitinsäureesters, der Glucoside oder Phosphate kann bevorzugt sein. Die Verwendung in Kombination mit Tocopherolen kann ebenfalls bevorzugt sein. Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol). Tocopherol und seine Derivate, worunter insbesondere die Ester wie das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat fallen, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Vitamin F. Unter dem Begriff "Vitamin F" werden üblicherweise essentielle Fettsäuren, insbesondere Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden. Vitamin H. Als Vitamin H wird die Verbindung (3aS, 4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-c ]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure bezeichnet, für die sich aber inzwischen der Trivialname Biotin durchgesetzt hat. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten. The group of substances referred to as vitamin A include retinol (vitamin A-1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, inter alia, vitamin B (thiamine), vitamin B 2 (riboflavin), vitamin B 3 . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Also included is vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) can be used. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die zusätzlich als Pflegestoff - bezogen auf sein Gewicht - 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 4 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,25 bis 3,5 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,5 bis 3 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-% Vitamine und/oder Pro-Vitamine und/oder Vitaminvorstufen enthalten, die vorzugsweise den Gruppen A, B, C, E, F und H zugeordnet werden, wobei bevorzugte Mittel Panthenol ((±)-2,4-Dihydroxy-A/-(3-hydroxypropyl)- 3,3-dimethyl-butyramid, Provitamin B5) und/oder Pantothensäure (Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5) und/oder Niacin, Niacinamid bzw. Nicotinamid (Vitamin B3) und/oder L-Ascorbinsäure (Vitamin C) und/oder Thiamin (Vitamin B-ι) und/oder Riboflavin (Vitamin B2, Vitamin G) und/oder Biotin (Vitamin B7, Vitamin H) und/oder Folsäure (Vitamin B9, Vitamin Bc oder Vitamin M) und/oder Vitamin B6 und/oder Vitamin B12 enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Mittel enthalten als Pflegestoff - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,01 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,025 bis 12,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 7,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,5 bis 5 Gew.-% mindestens eines 2- Furanonderivats der Formel (Fur-I) und/oder der Formel (Fur-Il) In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors contain, preferably the groups A, B, C, E, F and H, with preferred agents being panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin B 5 ) and / or pantothenic acid (Vitamin B 3 , vitamin B 5 ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B 3 ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B 2 , vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B 7 , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B 9 , vitamin B c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B 6 and / or vitamin B 12 . Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)
Figure imgf000006_0001
Figure imgf000006_0001
in welchen die Reste R bis R 0 unabhängig voneinander stehen für: in which the radicals R to R 0 are independently of one another
- Wasserstoff, -OH, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest,  Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,
- -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, --C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
- -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, --C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
- -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest, --C 2 - C 4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
- eine Gruppe -OR , mit R als einem -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, a group -OR, with R as a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono- , Di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
- eine Gruppe -NR 2R13, wobei R 2 und R 3 jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, - a group -NR 2 R 13 , wherein R 2 and R 3 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
- eine Gruppe -COOR 4, wobei R 4 steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest, a group -COOR 4 , where R 4 is hydrogen, a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated hydrocarbon radical, or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical,
- eine Gruppe -CONR 5R16, wobei R 5 und R 6 jeweils stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl-, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest, - eine Gruppe -COR16, wobei R 6 steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 a group -CONR 5 R 16 , where R 5 and R 6 each represent hydrogen, methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4 - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical, a group -COR 16 , where R 6 is a methyl, a C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 4
- gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C4 - gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a -C 2 -C 4 -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
- eine Gruppe -OCOR 7, wobei R 7 steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C2 - C30 - gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 a group -OCOR 7 , where R 7 is a methyl, a C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2
- C30 - gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C2 - C30 - gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyaminokohlenwasserstoffrest, - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C 30 - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, , Tri- or polyaminocarbon residue,
mit der Maßgabe, daß für den Fall, wenn R7 und R8 für -OH und gleichzeitig R9 oder R 0 für Wasserstoff stehen, die verbleibende Gruppe R9 oder R 0 nicht für einen Dihydroxyethylrest steht. In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der erfindungsgemäßen Lehre wird als Verbindung entsprechend der Formel (Fur-I) (R)-(-)-4-Hydroxymethyl-T-butyrolacton und/oder D,L- 4-Hydroxymethyl-y-butyrolacton und/oder (S)-(+)-4-Hydroxymethyl-y-butyrolacton und/oder R-(-)-2- Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-y-butyrolacton und/oder D,L-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-y-butyrolacton und/oder S(+)-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-y-butyrolacton und/oder 4-Hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3(2H)-furanon und/oder Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure und/oder Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, Na-Salz und/oder Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, K-Salz und/oder 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy- 2-furanon und/oder Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3/-/)-furanon eingesetzt. In einer ganz besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der erfindungsgemäßen Lehre wird als Verbindung entsprechend der Formel (Fur-I) Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon eingesetzt. with the proviso that in the case when R 7 and R 8 are -OH and at the same time R 9 or R 0 is hydrogen, the remaining group R 9 or R 0 is not a dihydroxyethyl. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, the compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) is (R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-T-butyrolactone and / or D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or (S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or D, L-2-hydroxy-3 , 3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid and / or tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, Na salt and / or tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, K salt and / or 2,5-dihydro -5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3 / - /) - furanone used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone.
Besonders bevorzugt sind die Kombination sind Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol. Particularly preferred are the combination means or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol.
Weiterhin besonders bevorzugte Kombinationen sind Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton.  Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% pantolactone, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0,000001 - 10th % By weight of pantolactone.
Ebenfalls bevorzugt sind die folgenden Kombinationen in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bzw. die Verwendung von:  Likewise preferred are the following combinations in the agents according to the invention or the use of:
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (Panthenol und Pantolacton);  0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt% (panthenol and pantolactone);
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (Panthenol und Pantolacton); 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt% (panthenol and pantolactone);
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (Panthenol und Pantolacton). Die o.a. Gewichtsangaben sind jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels. Im Falle von zwei Komponenten der gleichen Gruppe stellen die angegebenen Mengen die Gesamtmenge aus beiden Komponenten dar. 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (panthenol and pantolactone). The above weights are in each case based on the total weight of the composition. In the case of two components of the same group, the quantities given represent the total amount of both components.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mindestens eine natürliche Betainverbindung. Erfindungsgemäße natürliche Betainverbindungen sind natürlich vorkommende Verbindungen mit der Atomgruppierung R3N+-CH2-X-COO" gemäß lUPAC-Regel C-816.1. Sogenannte Betaintenside (synthetisch) fallen nicht unter die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Betainverbindungen, ebenso wenig andere zwitterionische Verbindungen, in denen sich die positive Ladung an N oder P und die negative Ladung formal an O, S, B oder C befindet, die aber nicht der lUPAC-Regel C-816.1 entsprechen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Betainverbindungen sind Betain (Me3N+-CH2-COO") und Carnitin (Me3N+-CH2-CHOH-CH2-COO"), jeweils mit Me = Methyl und X = C-C-Einfachbindung (im Falle des Betains) oder X = -CHOH-CH2- (im Falle des Carnitins). In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R 3 N + -CH 2 -X-COO " according to IUPAC rule C-816.1 So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, just as no other zwitterionic compounds where the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge are formally O, S, B or C, but do not conform to IUPAC Rule C-816.1 Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me 3 N + -CH 2 - COO " ) and carnitine (Me 3 N + -CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -COO " ), each with Me = methyl and X = CC single bond (in the case of the betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH 2 - (in the case of carnitine).
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine natürliche Betainverbindung in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 3 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.  Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0, 1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. , in each case based on the total composition.
Ein besonders bevorzugter Pflegestoff ausgewählt aus natürlichen Betainen ist Carnitin (3- Hydroxy-4-(trimethylammonium)-buttersäurebetain, [(R)-3-Carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl]- trimethylammoniumbetain), besonders bevorzugt L-Carnitin.  A particularly preferred care substance selected from natural betaines is carnitine (3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonium) -butyric acid betaine, [(R) -3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl] -trimethylammonium betaine), more preferably L-carnitine.
Weiterhin können auch Carnitinderivate eingesetzt werden. Bevorzugte Carnitinderivate sind insbesondere ausgewählt aus Carnitin-Tartrat, Acetyl-Carnitin, Carnitin-Fumarat, Carnitin-Citrat, Furthermore, carnitine derivatives can also be used. Preferred carnitine derivatives are in particular selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl carnitine, carnitine fumarate, carnitine citrate,
Lauroyl-Carnitin und besonders bevorzugt Carnitin-Tartrat. Besonders bevorzugt sind die L-Lauroyl carnitine and most preferably carnitine tartrate. Particularly preferred are the
Carnitin-Derivate Acetyl-L-Carnitin, L-Carnitin-Fumarat, L-Carnitin-Citrat, Lauroyl-L-Carnitin und besonderes bevorzugt L-Carnitin-Tartrat. Die genannten L-Carnitin-Verbindungen sind beispielsweise von der Firma Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Deutschland) erhältlich. Carnitine derivatives Acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially preferred L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).
Gemäß einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird Carnitin und/oder das Carnitinderivat dem kosmetischen Mittel in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,00001 - According to a further preferred embodiment, carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative is added to the cosmetic agent in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001.
5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,0001 - 2 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,001 - 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels, eingesetzt. 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition used.
Besonders bevorzugt sind die Kombination sind Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol.  Particularly preferred are the combination means or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol.
Weiterhin besonders bevorzugte Kombinationen sind Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin. Ebenfalls bevorzugt sind die folgenden Kombinationen in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bzw. die Verwendung von: Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt% carnitine; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% carnitine, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0,000001 - 10th Wt% carnitine. Likewise preferred are the following combinations in the agents according to the invention or the use of:
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK- 1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol.  0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of carnitine and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10 wt% carnitine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10% by weight of carnitine and with 0.000001 - 10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 - 10% by weight carnitine and with 0.000001 - 10% by weight pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10 wt% carnitine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% carnitine and with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% carnitine tartrate and 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol.
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Carnitintartrat und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% carnitine tartrate and with 0.000001 - 10 wt% pantolactone;
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Ectoin. Ectoin ist der Trivialname für 2-Methyl-1 ,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidin-4-carboxylat. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist Ectoin in Mengen von 0,000001 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,00001 bis Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten.  In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferred in amounts of from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.00001 to% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
Besonders bevorzugte Kombinationen, die erfindungsgemäß verwendet bzw. in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln eingesetzt werden, sind:  Particularly preferred combinations which are used according to the invention or used in the agents according to the invention are:
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK- 1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin.  0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt% ectoine; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% ectoine, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0,000001 - 10th Wt% ectoine.
Weiterhin besonders bevorzugte Kombinationen sind Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.- % Ectoin; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Ectoin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton;  Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134; 0.000001 - 10% by weight ectoine and with 0.000001 - 10% by weight panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight ectoine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% ectoine and 0.000001 - 10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 - 10% by weight of ectoine and with 0.000001 - 10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight ectoine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% ectoine and with 0.000001 - 10 wt% pantolactone;
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Kreatin. Kreatin ist der Trivialname für /V-Methyl-guanidino-essigsäure bzw. /V-Amidinosar- kosin. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist Kreatin in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,01 bis 0, 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for / V-methyl-guanidinoacetic acid or / V-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, especially preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and most preferably 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.
Besonders bevorzugte Kombinationen, die erfindungsgemäß verwendet bzw. in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln eingesetzt werden, sind:  Particularly preferred combinations which are used according to the invention or used in the agents according to the invention are:
0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK- 1 18 mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin.  0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001 - 10 wt% creatine; 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 with 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% creatine, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) with 0,000001 - 10th Wt% creatine.
Weiterhin besonders bevorzugte Kombinationen sind Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-118; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.- % Kreatin; mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK- 1 18), 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Kreatin und mit 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton;  Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of creatine and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001 - 10 wt% creatine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% creatine and 0.000001 - 10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-134; 0.000001 to 10% by weight of creatine and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% EUK-1 18; 0.000001 - 10% by weight creatine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001 - 10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt% creatine and 0.000001 - 10 wt% pantolactone;
Weitere bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zur Verbesserung der Hautfeuchtigkeit unter Verzicht auf komedogene Substanzen mindestens ein alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierten Harnstoff der allgemeinen Formel (A) enthalten ist, Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve skin moisture while omitting comedogenic substances.
Figure imgf000010_0001
Figure imgf000010_0001
(A)  (A)
in der R-ι , R2, R3 und R4 unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n- Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C2-C6-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder Ci-C4-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R-ι - R4 eine C2-C6-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder CrC4-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt. in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or Ci-C4-hydroxyalkyl groups are, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R-ι - R 4 is a C 2 -C 6 -Hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or CrC 4 -hydroxyalkyl groups.
Weitere bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der mindestens eine alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierte Harnstoff der allgemeinen Formel (A) ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen, in denen R-ι , R2, R3 und R4 unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C2-C6-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder Ci-C4-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R-ι und R2 und gleichzeitig mindestens einer der Reste R3 und R4 eine C2-C6-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder CrC4-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt. Weitere bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der mindestens eine alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierte Harnstoff der allgemeinen Formel (A) ausgewählt ist aus Bis-Ν,Ν'- (2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or Ci-C4-hydroxyalkyl groups are, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R and R 2 and at least simultaneously one of R 3 and R 4 is a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl groups. Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis-Ν, Ν'- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens einen alkyl- oder hydroxyalkylsubstituierten Harnstoff gemäß Formel (A), insbesondere N,N'-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 - 50 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 - 20 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 1 - 10 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 2 - 5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. N,N'-Bis- (2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff, bei Raumtemperatur ein kristalliner Feststoff, ist beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt Hydrovance der National Starch and Chemical Company als ca. 45 - 55 %ige wässrige Lösung mit einem Gehalt an Harnstoff und Ammoniumlactat erhältlich.  Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight. %, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably 2 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total composition. N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, is available, for example, as a Hydrovance commercial product from the National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Pflegestoff mindestens einen Olivenblattextrakt (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Olivenblattextrakt ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Oleanoline DPG von der Firma Vincience erhältlich. Ein weiterer erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugter Olivenblattextrakt ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. von der Firma Fruitarom erhältlich. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain as a care substance at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens einen Olivenblattextrakt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 1 - 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf den Extrakt als Handelsprodukt tel quel in der gesamten erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Olivenblattextrakte können einen hohen Gehalt an Oleanolsäure und/oder Oleanol aufweisen. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Oleanolsäure, Oleanol und/oder Oleuropein. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie Oleanolsäure, Oleanol und/oder Oleuropein in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,00001 bis 2 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 1 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 0, 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten.  Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention. Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen als Pflegestoff Ursolsäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie Ursolsäure in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,00001 bis 2 Gew.- %, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 1 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 0, 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten.  In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid as a care substance. Compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.
Als weiteren bevorzugten Pflegestoff können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel mindestens ein Kohlenhydrat, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der Monosaccharide, Disaccharide und/oder Oligosaccharide enthalten. Hier sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie als Pflegestoff - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,05 bis 4,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 bis 4 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,5 bis 3,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,75 bis 2,5 Gew.-% Kohlenhydrat(e), ausgewählt aus Monosacchariden, Disacchariden und/oder Oligosacchariden enthalten, wobei bevorzugte Kohlenhydrate ausgewählt sind aus As a further preferred care substance, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate, preferably selected from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they have a care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.75 to 2.5% by weight Carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides, preferred carbohydrates being selected from
Monosachhariden, (insbesondere D-Ribose und/oder D-Xylose und/oder L-Arabinose und/oder D-Glucose und/oder D-Mannose und/oder D-Galactose und/oder D-Fructose und/oder Sorbose und/oder L-Fucose und/oder L-Rhamnose)  Monosaccharides, (in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose)
Disacchariden, (insbesondere Saccharose und/oder Maltose und/oder Lactose und/oder Trehalose und/oder Cellobiose und/oder Gentiobiose und/oder Isomaltose).  Disaccharides, (in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose).
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel bzw. erfindungsgemäß zu verwendende Mittel enthalten bezogen auf ihr Gewicht  Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose.  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose.
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose.  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose.
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,- 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose. - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel bzw. erfindungsgemäß zu verwendende Mittel enthalten bezogen auf ihr Gewicht Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,  - 0.000001 - 10% by weight of EUK-134, 0.000001 - 10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose.  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose.
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose.  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose.
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) , 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,  0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-134 and EUK-1 18, 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose. - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose.
Es hat sich gezeigt, daß der Einsatz bestimmter Chinone eine Antischuppen- und Anti- Haarausfallwirkung verstärkt sowie Vorteile in Bezug auf Kämmbarkeit und Glanz bewirkt. Als weiteren Bestandteil können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel daher 0,0001 bis 5 Gew.-% mindestens eines Biochinons der Formel (Ubi) It has been found that the use of certain quinones enhances anti-dandruff and anti-hair loss effects as well as combability and gloss benefits. When further component, the agents according to the invention may therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)
Figure imgf000013_0001
Figure imgf000013_0001
enthalten in der contained in the
X, Y, Z stehen unabhängig voneinander für -O- oder -NH- oder NR4- oder eine chemische Bindung X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR 4 - or a chemical bond
R , R2, R3 stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte Arylgruppe oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte (Ci-Ce)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe oder eine Polyhydroxyalkylgruppe oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte (d-Ce)- Alkylengruppe, oder einen (Ci-Ce)-Acylrest, wobei bevorzugte Reste unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, CH3, -CH2CH3, -(CH2)2CH2, -CH(CH3)2, -(CH2)3CH3, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, - CH2CH(CH3)2, -C(CH3)3 R, R 2 , R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C 1 -C 6) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (d-Ce) -alkylene group, or a ( C 1 -C 6) -acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, CH 3, -CH 2 CH 3, - (CH 2) 2 CH 2, -CH (CH 3) 2, - (CH 2) 3 CH 3, -CH (CH 3) CH 2 CH 3, CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -C (CH 3 ) 3
R4 steht für -CH3, -CH2CH3, -(CH2)2CH2, -CH(CH3)2, R 4 is -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 ,
(CH2)3CH3, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -C(CH3)3 (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -C (CH 3 ) 3
n steht für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.  n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie als Pflegestoff - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0, 1 Gew.-% mindestens eines Ubichinons und/oder mindestens eines Ubichinols und/oder mindestens eines Derivates dieser Substanzen enthalten, wobei bevorzugte Mittel ein Ubichinon der Formel (Ubi) enthalten  Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1% by weight of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, with preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)
Figure imgf000013_0002
Figure imgf000013_0002
(Ubi),  (Ubi)
in der n für die Werte = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10, besonders bevorzugt für 10 (Coenzym Q10) steht. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel bzw. erfindungsgemäß zu verwendende Mittel enthalten bezogen auf ihr Gewicht in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10). Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-% CoenzymQI O;  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.0001 to 1 wt .-% coenzyme QI O;
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-% CoenzymQI O;  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.0001 to 1 wt .-% coenzyme QI O;
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-% CoenzymQI O. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel bzw. erfindungsgemäß zu verwendende Mittel enthalten bezogen auf ihr Gewicht  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.0001 to 1 wt .-% coenzyme QI O. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention or agents to be used according to the invention contain by weight
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und CoenzymQI O;  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol and / or pantolactone and coenzyme QI O;
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und CoenzymQI O;  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol and / or pantolactone and coenzyme QI O;
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) , 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und CoenzymQI O;  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18), 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol and / or pantolactone and coenzyme QI O;
Alternativ zu den besonders bevorzugten Ubichinonen oder zusätzlich zu ihnen können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel auch Plastochinone enthalten. Hier sind bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie 0,0002 bis 4 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0005 bis 3 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 2 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,0015 bis 1 und insbesondere 0,002 bis 0,5 Gew.-% mindestens eines Plastochinons der Formel (Ubi-Ib) enthalten  As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-Ib)
Figure imgf000014_0001
Figure imgf000014_0001
in der n für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 steht, wobei besonders bevorzugt Mittel Plastochinon PQ-9 der Formel in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula
Figure imgf000014_0002
Figure imgf000014_0002
enthalten. contain.
Bevorzugt können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel auch Pflanzenextrakte (L) als Pflegestoff(e) enthalten. Üblicherweise werden diese Extrakte durch Extraktion der gesamten Pflanze hergestellt. Es kann aber in einzelnen Fällen auch bevorzugt sein, die Extrakte ausschließlich aus Blüten und/oder Blättern der Pflanze herzustellen.  The agents according to the invention may preferably also contain plant extracts (L) as care substance (s). Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
Erfindungsgemäß sind vor allem die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Henna, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Weißdorn, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Fichtennadel, Roßkastanie, Sandelholz, Wacholder, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Malve, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Thymian, Melisse, Hauhechel, Huflattich, Eibisch, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel bevorzugt. According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, Almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool Coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are preferred.
Besonders bevorzugt sind die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Hauhechel, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel. Ganz besonders für die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung geeignet sind die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi und Melone.  Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.
Als Extraktionsmittel zur Herstellung der genannten Pflanzenextrakte können Wasser, Alkohole sowie deren Mischungen verwendet werden. Unter den Alkoholen sind dabei niedere Alkohole wie Ethanol und Isopropanol, insbesondere aber mehrwertige Alkohole wie Ethylenglykol und Propylenglykol, sowohl als alleiniges Extraktionsmittel als auch in Mischung mit Wasser, bevorzugt. Pflanzenextrakte auf Basis von Wasser/Propylenglykol im Verhältnis 1 : 10 bis 10: 1 haben sich als besonders geeignet erwiesen. As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
Die Pflanzenextrakte können erfindungsgemäß sowohl in reiner als auch in verdünnter Form eingesetzt werden. Sofern sie in verdünnter Form eingesetzt werden, enthalten sie üblicherweise ca. 2 - 80 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz und als Lösungsmittel das bei ihrer Gewinnung eingesetzte Extraktionsmittel oder Extraktionsmittelgemisch.  The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
Weiterhin kann es bevorzugt sein, in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln Mischungen aus mehreren, insbesondere aus zwei, verschiedenen Pflanzenextrakten einzusetzen.  Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen bzw. die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zusammensetzungen mindestens ein Flavonoid oder mindestens einen Flavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakt.  In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention or the compositions used according to the invention comprise at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Flavonoide umfassen die Glycoside der Flavone, der Flavanone, der 3-Hydroxyflavone (Flavonole), der Aurone und der Isoflavone. Besonders bevorzugte Flavonoide sind ausgewählt aus Naringin (Aurantiin, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucosid), α-Glucosylrutin, a- Glucosylmyricetin, a-Glucosylisoquercetin, a-Glucosylquercetin, Dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), Hesperidin (3',5J-Trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rhamnoglucosid, Hesperitin-7-O-rhamnoglu- cosid), Neohesperidin, Rutin (3,3',4',5,7-Pentahydroxyflavon-3-rhamnoglucosid, Quercetin-3- rhamnoglucosid), Troxerutin (3,5-Dihydroxy-3',4',7-tris(2-hydroxyethoxy)-flavon-3-(6-0-(6-deoxy-a- L-mannopyranosyl)-ß-D-glucopyranosid)), Monoxerutin (3,3',4',5-Tetrahydroxy-7-(2-hydroxy- ethoxy)-flavon-3-(6-0-(6-deoxy-a-L-mannopyranosyl)-ß-D-glucopyranosid)), Diosmin (3',4',7- Trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanon-7-rhamnoglucosid), Eriodictin und Apigenin-7-glucosid (4',5,7- Tri hyd roxyf la vo η-7-g I u cos id ) .  The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5J-trihydroxy-4'- methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3, 5-Dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-0- (6-deoxy-a-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin ( 3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-0- (6-deoxy-aL-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyf la vo η-7-g I u cos id) ,
Erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte Flavonoide sind α-Glucosylrutin, Naringin und Apigenin-7-glucosid. Ebenfalls bevorzugt sind die aus zwei Flavonoideinheiten aufgebauten Biflavonoide, die z. B. in Gingko-Arten vorkommen. Weitere bevorzugte Flavonoide sind die Chalkone, vor allem Phloricin, Hesperidinmethylchalkon und Neohesperidindihydrochalkon. Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside. Also preferred are those constructed from two flavonoid units Biflavonoids, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein Flavonoid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die Flavo- noidaktivsubstanz in der gesamten kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Flavo- noidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen bzw. die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zusammensetzungen mindestens ein Isoflavonoid oder mindestens einen Isoflavonoid-reichen Pflanzenextrakt. Zu den Isoflavonoiden werden an dieser Stelle die Isoflavone und die Isoflavon-Glycoside gezählt. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention or the compositions used according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.
Unter Isoflavonen sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung Stoffe zu verstehen, die Hydrierungs-, Oxidations- oder Substitutionsprodukte des 3-Phenyl-4H-1-benzopyrans darstellen, wobei eine Hydrierung in der 2,3-Stellung des Kohlenstoffgerüsts vorliegen kann, eine Oxidation unter Ausbildung einer Carbonylgruppe in der 4-Stellung vorliegen kann, und unter Substitution der Ersatz eines oder mehrerer Wasserstoffatome durch Hydroxy- oder Methoxy-Gruppen zu verstehen ist. Zu den erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Isoflavonen zählen beispielsweise Daidzein, Genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A und Formononetin. Als Isoflavone besonders bevorzugt sind Daidzein, Genistein, Glycitein und Formononetin.  For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.
In den erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Isoflavon-Glycosiden sind die Isoflavone über mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe mit mindestens einem Zucker glycosidisch verknüpft. Als Zucker kommen Mono- oder Oligosaccharide, insbesondere D-Glucose, D-Galactose, D-Glucuronsäure, D-Galact- uronsäure, D-Xylose, D-Apiose, L-Rhamnose, L-Arabinose und Rutinose in Betracht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Isoflavon-Glycoside sind Daidzin und Genistin. In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.
Erfindungsgemäß weiterhin bevorzugt ist es, wenn die Isoflavone und/oder deren Glycoside als Bestandteile eines aus einer Pflanze gewonnenen Substanzgemisches, insbesondere eines pflanzlichen Extraktes, in den Zubereitungen enthalten sind. Solche pflanzlichen Substanzgemische können in dem Fachmann geläufiger Weise beispielsweise durch Auspressen oder Extrahieren aus Pflanzen wie Soja, Rotklee oder Kichererbsen gewonnen werden. Besonders bevorzugt werden in den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen Isoflavone oder Isoflavon-Glycoside in Form von aus Soja gewonnenen Extrakten eingesetzt, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Produktbezeichnung Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) oder Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) im Handel erhältlich sind. Ein weiterer besonders bevorzugter Isoflavonoid-reicher Pflanzenextrakt ist Apfelkernextrakt, insbesondere das Handelsprodukt Ederline von Seporga. Ederline enthält Phytohormone, Isoflavonoide, Phytosterole, Triterpenoide, Tocopherole und natürliche Wachse. It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein Isoflavonoid in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,00001 bis 1 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 0,1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in der gesamten kosmetischen Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Besonders bevorzugt sind die Kombinationen von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134; 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18; von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18); Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition. Particularly preferred are the combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134; From 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and from 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-1 18; from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18);
Weiterhin bevorzugt sind Kombinationen von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol; von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Panthenol;  Also preferred are combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% of isoflavonoids from soybean, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% panthenol; 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-1 18 and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol; from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy, 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol;
Weiterhin bevorzugt sind Kombinationen von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton; von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK- 134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% Pantolacton;  Also preferred are combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% of isoflavonoids from soybean, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% pantolactone; 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-1 18 and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone; from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy, 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone;
Weiterhin bevorzugt sind Kombinationen von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (Panthenol und Pantolacton); 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (Panthenol und Pantolacton); von 0,0005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% Isoflavonoiden aus Soja, 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-1 18) und 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% (Panthenol und Pantolacton);  Also preferred are combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% of isoflavonoids from soybean, 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% (panthenol and pantolactone); From 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soya and from 0.000001 to 10% by weight EUK-1 18 and from 0.000001 to 10% by weight (panthenol and pantolactone); from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soya, 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-1 18) and 0.000001 to 10% by weight (panthenol and pantolactone) ;
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen neben der erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombination mindestens eine a-Hydroxycarbon- säure, α-Ketocarbonsäure oder ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure oder deren Ester-, Lacton- oder Salzform. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren oder α-Ketocarbonsäuren sind Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Weinsäure, Citronensäure, 2-Hydroxybutansäure, 2,3-Dihydroxypropansäure, 2- Hydroxypentansäure, 2-Hydroxyhexansäure, 2-Hydroxyheptansäure, 2-Hydroxyoctansäure, 2- Hydroxydecansäure, 2-Hydroxydodecansäure, 2-Hydroxytetradecansäure, 2-Hydroxyhexadecan- säure, 2-Hydroxyoctadecansäure, Mandelsäure, 4-Hydroxymandelsäure, Äpfelsäure, Erythrar- säure, Threarsäure, Glucarsäure, Galactarsäure, Mannarsäure, Gularsäure, 2-Hydroxy-2-methyl- bernsteinsäure, Gluconsäure, Brenztraubensäure, Glucuronsäure und Galacturonsäure. Besonders bevorzugte α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren sind Milchsäure, Citronensäure, Glycolsäure und Gluconsäure. Eine besonders bevorzugte ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure ist Salicylsäure. Die Ester der genannten Säuren sind ausgewählt aus den Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, Butyl-, Amyl-, Pentyl-, Hexyl-, 2-Ethylhexyl-, Octyl-, Decyl-, Dodecyl- und Hexadecylestern. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie neben der erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombination mindestens eine α-Hydroxycarbonsäure, a-Ketocarbonsäure und/oder ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure oder ein Derivat, insbesondere einen Ester, ein Lacton oder ein Salz hiervon, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0, 1 - 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 - 1 - 2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Als weiteren wesentlichen Inhaltsstoff enthält das erfindungsgemäße Mittel des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands als Pflegestoff mindestens ein Fettsäuretriglycerid oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemisch, bevorzugt mit einem hohen Anteil an ungesättigten Fettsäuren. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-succinic acid, gluconic acid, Pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a Salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition , As a further essential ingredient, the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention contains as care substance at least one fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture, preferably with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids.
Erfindungsgemäß ist ein Fettsäuretriglycerid ein Triester aus Glycerin mit drei unterschiedlichen oder identischen Fettsäuren. Als Fettsäure gilt erfindungsgemäß eine aliphatische Carbonsäure mit langer, nahezu ausschließlich unverzweigter Kohlenstoff-Kette und einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Die Fettsäuren der Fettsäuretriglyceride können gesättigte oder ungesättigte Kohlenstoffketten tragen, wobei zumindest 80 Gew.-% der im Triglycerid enthaltenen Fettsäuren zumindest einfach ungesättigt sein muss und daher mindestens eine C-C-Doppelbindung aufweisen muss.  According to the invention, a fatty acid triglyceride is a triester of glycerol with three different or identical fatty acids. The fatty acid according to the invention is an aliphatic carboxylic acid having a long, almost exclusively unbranched carbon chain and a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids of the fatty acid triglycerides may carry saturated or unsaturated carbon chains, wherein at least 80 wt .-% of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride must be at least monounsaturated and therefore must have at least one C-C double bond.
Ungesättigte Fettsäuren können eine Doppelbindung in ihrer Kohlenstoffkette sowohl in (E)- als auch in (Z)- Konfiguration besitzen, wobei bei mehreren Doppelbindungen in der Fettsäure sowohl Fettsäuren mit Doppelbindungen ausschließlich in (ZJ-Konfiguration, ausschließlich in (E)- Konfiguration oder auch in gemischter Konfiguration einsetzbar sind. Bevorzugt sind jedoch ungesättigte Fettsäuren mit all-fZJ-Konfiguration.  Unsaturated fatty acids may have a double bond in their carbon chain both in (E) and in (Z) configuration, with multiple double bonds in the fatty acid, both fatty acids with double bonds exclusively in (ZJ configuration, exclusively in (E) configuration or can also be used in mixed configuration, but preferred are unsaturated fatty acids with all-fZJ configuration.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte ungesättigte Fettsäuren sind Palmitoleinsäure (C16:1 9Z), Ölsäure (C18:1 9Z), Elaidinsäure (C18: 1 9E), Eicosensäure (Gondosäure; C20:1 1 1Z), Erucasäure(C22:1 13Z), Nervonsäure (C24: 1 15Z), Linolsäure (C18:2 9Z12Z), Y-(gamma)-Linolensäure (C18:3 6Z9Z12Z), o(alpha)-Linolensäure (C18:3 9Z12Z15Z), α-Elaeostearinsäure (C18:3 9Z, 1 1 E,13E) und Arachidonsäure (C20:4 5Z8Z1 1Z14Z).  Preferred unsaturated fatty acids according to the invention are palmitoleic acid (C16: 1 9Z), oleic acid (C18: 1 9Z), elaidic acid (C18: 1 9E), eicosenoic acid (gondoic acid, C20: 1 1 1Z), erucic acid (C22: 1 13Z), nervonic acid ( C24: 1 15Z), linoleic acid (C18: 2 9Z12Z), Y- (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 6Z9Z12Z), o (alpha) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 9Z12Z15Z), α-elaeostearic acid (C18: 3 9Z, 1 1 E, 13E) and arachidonic acid (C20: 4 5Z8Z1 1Z14Z).
Die erfindungsgemäß einsetzbaren Fettsäuretriglyceride oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemische können an Glycerin jedoch neben Estern mit ungesättigten Fettsäuren auch anteilig Ester mit gesättigten Fettsäuren enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt enthält das Mittel Gemische von Fettsäuretriglyceriden, wobei Glycerin mit unterschiedlichen ungesättigten und gesättigten Fettsäuren verestert ist, solange sichergestellt ist, dass der molare Anteil an ungesättigten Fettsäuren mindestens 80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt mindestens 85 Gew.-% und insbesondere bevorzugt mindestens 88 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht aller Fettsäuren des Fettsäuretriglycerids oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemischs, beträgt.  The fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention can, however, also contain proportionally esters of saturated fatty acids with glycerol in addition to esters with unsaturated fatty acids. According to the invention, the composition preferably contains mixtures of fatty acid triglycerides, wherein glycerol is esterified with different unsaturated and saturated fatty acids, as long as it is ensured that the molar proportion of unsaturated fatty acids at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 85 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 88 % By weight, based in each case on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt einsetzbare Fettsäuretriglyceride sind dabei ein Gemisch von Fettsäuretriglyceriden, das sich dadurch auszeichnet, dass der Anteil an Y-(gamma)-Linolensäure (C18:3 c6c9c12; auch (a//-Z)-6,9,12,-Octatriensäure) unter den Fettsäuren mindestens 15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt mindestens 18 Gew.-% und insbesondere mindestens 20 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht aller Fettsäuren des Fettsäuretriglycerids oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemischs, beträgt.  Preferred fatty acid triglycerides which can be used according to the invention are a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides, which is distinguished by the proportion of Y- (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 c6c9c12; also (a / - Z) -6,9,12-octatrienoic acid ) Among the fatty acids at least 15 wt .-%, preferably at least 18 wt .-% and in particular at least 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture is.
Erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthalten als Fettsäuretriglyceride oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemisch mit einem hohen Anteil an ungesättigten Fettsäuren. Ein Maß für die Ungesättigtheit einer Verbindung bzw. eines Gemisches von Verbindungen stellt die sogenannte lodzahl dar. Damit lässt sich, insbe- sondere bei Gemischen, der Anteil an C-C-Doppelbindungen bestimmen, wobei eine hohe Zahl für einen hohen Anteil an Doppelbindungen steht. Dem Fachmann ist die Bestimmung der lod- Zahl wohl bekannt, sie kann beispielsweise nach der Methode DGF C-V-1 1 b bestimmt werden. Compositions according to the invention contain as fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixture with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids. A measure of the unsaturation of a compound or of a mixture of compounds is the so-called iodine number. especially for mixtures, determine the proportion of CC double bonds, where a high number stands for a high proportion of double bonds. The person skilled in the determination of the iodine number is well known, it can for example be determined by the method DGF CV-1 1 b.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind dabei insbesondere Fettsäuretriglyceride oder Fettsäuretri- glyceridgemische, welche eine lodzahl von mindestens 125, bevorzugt von mindestens 130 und insbesondere von 130 bis 150 besitzen. Particular preference is given according to the invention to fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which have an iodine number of at least 125, preferably of at least 130 and in particular of 130 to 150.
Besonders bevorzugt sind dabei Fettsäuretriglyceridgemische, welche einen Anteil an γ-Linolen- säure von mindestens 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht aller Fettsäuren des Fettsäuretriglyceridgemischs, und eine lodzahl von mindestens 125 besitzen.  Particular preference is given to fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which have a proportion of γ-linolenic acid of at least 15% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride mixture, and an iodine number of at least 125.
Als erfindungsgemäße Fettsäuretriglyceride oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemische eignen sich insbesondere natürliche Öle, welche die vorgenannten Merkmale, welche vorzugsweise pflanzlicher Herkunft sind. Suitable fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures according to the invention are, in particular, natural oils which have the abovementioned features, which are preferably of vegetable origin.
Eine Ausführungsform des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands ist daher dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass im erfindungsgemäßen Mittel das Fettsäuretriglycerid oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemisch in Form eines natürlichen, pflanzlichen Öls eingesetzt wird.  An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture in the form of a natural, vegetable oil is used in the composition according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders geeignet hat sich als pflanzliches das Öl aus den Samen von Rauhblattgewächsen, insbesondere von Borago officinalis L. (Borretsch) herausgestellt. Borretsch- öl wird entweder durch mechanische Pressung aus den Samen von Borago officinalis L. und anschließender Raffination als fettes Öl oder durch Extraktion und anschließende Raffination erhalten, wobei durch Pressung, insbesondere durch kalte Pressung gewonnenes Öl bevorzugt ist. Eine weitere Ausführungsform des ersten Erfindungsgegenstands ist daher dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Mittel als Fettsäuretriglycerid oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemisch das Öl aus Samen von Borago officinalis L. (Borretsch) enthält.  According to the invention, the vegetable oil has been found to be particularly suitable from the seeds of European woody plants, in particular from Borago officinalis L. (borage). Borage oil is obtained either by mechanical pressing from the seeds of Borago officinalis L. and subsequent refining as a fatty oil or by extraction and subsequent refining, preference being given to oil obtained by compression, in particular by cold pressing. A further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture the oil from seeds of Borago officinalis L. (borage).
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Mittel das Fettsäuretriglycerid oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemisch mit einen Anteil an ungesättigten Fettsäuren von mindestens 80 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht aller Fettsäuren des Fettsäuretriglycerids oder Fettsäuretriglyceridgemischs, in einem Anteil von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0, 1 bis 3 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des anwendungsbereiten Mittels, enthält.  Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent comprises the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture with a proportion of unsaturated fatty acids of at least 80% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture, in a proportion of 0.01 to 10% by weight. -%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent contains.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können weitere Wirk- und Hilfsstoffe beinhalten. Diese werden nachfolgend beschrieben.  The agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.
Vorzugsweise enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel zusätzlich mindestens einen Emulgator bzw. ein Tensid, wobei oberflächenaktive Substanzen je nach Anwendungsgebiet als Tenside oder als Emulgatoren bezeichnet werden und aus anionischen, kationischen, zwitterionischen, ampholytischen und nichtionischen Tensiden und Emulgatoren ausgewählt sind.  The agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of use, and selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie - bezogen auf sein Gewicht - 0,5 bis 70 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1 bis 60 Gew.-% und insbesondere 5 bis 25 Gew.-% anionische(s) und/oder nichtionische(s) und/oder kationische(s) und/oder amphotere(s) Tensid(e), enthalten. Bevorzugte anionische Tenside und Emulgatoren sind Acylglutamate, Acylisethionate, Acylsarcosinate und Acyltaurate, jeweils mit einem linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0, 1 , 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen, der in besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsformen aus einem Octanoyl-, Decanoyl-, Lauroyl-, Myristoyl-, Palmitoyl- und Stearoylrest ausgewählt ist, Ester der Weinsäure, Zitronensäure oder Bernsteinsäure bzw. der Salze dieser Säuren mit alkylierter Glucose, insbesondere die Produkte mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate und Disodium Coco-Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Alkylpolyglycolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäuren mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Ethoxygruppen im Molekül, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Ethoxygruppen. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s). Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.
Als zwitterionische Tenside und Emulgatoren werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen bezeichnet, die im Molekül mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und mindestens eine - COO<_) - oder -S03 <_) -Gruppe tragen. Besonders geeignete zwitterionische Tenside und Emulgatoren sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl- ammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, und 2- Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. Ein bevorzugtes zwitterionisches Tensid ist das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamidderivat. Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one in the molecule - carry or -S0 3 <_) group - COO <_). Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Unter ampholytischen Tensiden und Emulgatoren werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen verstanden, die außer einer C8 - C24 - Alkyl- oder -Acylgruppe mindestens eine freie Aminogruppe und mindestens eine -COOH- oder -S03H-Gruppe enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind. Beispiele für geeignete ampholytische Tenside sind N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylaminopropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxy- ethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugte ampholytische Tenside sind das N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylamino- ethylaminopropionat und das d2 - Ci8 - Acylsarcosin. Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 - contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 3 H group and alkyl or acyl group capable of forming inner salts - C 2 4 are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the d 2 -C 8 -acylsarcosine.
Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind weiterhin kationische Tenside vom Typ der quartären Ammoniumverbindungen, der Esterquats und der Amidoamine. Bevorzugte quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen sind Ammoniumhalogenide, insbesondere Chloride und Bromide, wie Alkyl- trimethylammoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride und Trialkylmethylammonium- chloride. Die langen Alkylketten dieser Tenside weisen bevorzugt 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatome auf, wie z. B. in Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Distearyldimethyl- ammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid und Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid. Weitere bevorzugte kationische Tenside sind die unter den INCI- Bezeichnungen Quaternium-27 und Quaternium-83 bekannten Imidazolium-Verbindungen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel, die zusätzlich Fettalkohol(e) und/oder Fettalkoholalkoxylat(e), vorzugsweise Ci2-22-Fettalkohol(e) und/oder Ci2-22-Fettalkoholethoxylat(e) mit 10 bis 30 EO-Einheiten, besonders bevorzugt C16.18-Fettalkohol(e) und/oder C16.18- Fettalkoholethoxylat(e) mit 12 bis 20 EO-Einheiten, vorzugsweise in Mengen von 5 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 7,5 bis 17,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 10 bis 15 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des Mittels, enthalten. Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Are very particularly preferred composition of the invention, the addition of fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C 2 -22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 2-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 10 to 30 EO units , particularly preferably C 16 . 18 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 16 . 18 - fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having from 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 10 to 15% by weight, each based on the weight of the agent included.
Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,1 bis 20 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,25 bis 17,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 5 bis 15 Gew.-% anionische(s) Tensid(e), besonders bevorzugt Fettalkoholethersulfate der Formel  In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic ( s) surfactant (s), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula
H3C-(CH2)n-(OCH2CH2)k-OS03 " M+ H 3 C- (CH 2 ) n - (OCH 2 CH 2 ) k -OSO 3 " M +
enthalten, in der n für Werte von 5 bis 21 , vorzugsweise von 7 bis 19, besonders bevorzugt von 9 bis 17 und insbesondere von 1 1 bis 13 und k für Werte von 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10, vorzugsweise für 1 , 2 oder 3 und insbesondere für 2 stehen, und M für ein Kation aus der Gruppe Na+, K+ NH4 +, Mg2+, Zn2+, vorzugsweise für Na+, stehen. in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation from the group Na + , K + NH 4 + , Mg 2+ , Zn 2+ , preferably Na + ,
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel sind weiter dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie zusätzlich amphotere(s) Tensid(e), vorzugsweise aus den Gruppen der N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkylimino- dipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2- Alkylaminopropionsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, Alkylamino- essigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat Ci2 - Ci8 - Acylsarcosin, N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium- glycinate, beispielsweise Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N- dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, 2- Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinatder unter der INCI- Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betain bekannten Verbindungen, der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate bekannten Verbindungen, enthalten, wobei bevorzugte Mittel das bzw. die amphotere(n) Tensid(e) in Mengen von 1 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 2,5 bis 12 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 5 bis 10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are further characterized in that they additionally contain amphoteric surfactant (s), preferably from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimidodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate C 2 - C 8 - acyl sarcosine, N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N- dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinatder compounds known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, which compounds are known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, preferred agents comprising the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 12 wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel enthalten als amphotere T  Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, contain as amphoteric T.
Figure imgf000021_0001
Figure imgf000021_0001
in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht Diese Tenside werden nach der INCI-Nomenklatur als Amidopropylbetaine bezeichnet, wobei die Vertreter, die sich von Kokosfettsäuren ableiten, bevorzugt sind und als Cocoamidopropylbetaine bezeichnet werden. Besonders bevorzugt werden erfindungsgemäß Tenside der Formel (I) eingesetzt, die ein Gemisch der folgenden Vertreter sind: in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms These surfactants are referred to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (I) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
H3C-(CH2)7-C(0)-NH-(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO~, H3C-(CH2)9-C(0)-NH-(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO~ H3C-(CH2)11-C(0)-NH-(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO", H3C-(CH2)13-C(0)-NH-(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO" H3C-(CH2)15-C(0)-NH-(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO", H 3 C- (CH 2) 7 -C (0) -NH- (CH 2) 3 N + (CH 3) 2 CH 2 COO ~, H 3 C- (CH 2) 9 -C (0) -NH - (CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO ~ H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 11 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO " , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 13 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO " H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 15 -C (O) -NH - (CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO " ,
H3C-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7-C(0)-NH-(CH2)3N+(CH3)2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -CH = CH- (CH 2 ) 7 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 3 N + (CH 3 ) 2 CH 2 COO "
Besonders bevorzugt werden Tenside der Formel (I) innerhalb engerer Mengenbereiche eingesetzt. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,25 bis 8 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,5 bis 7 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,75 bis 6,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 1 bis 5,5 Gew.-% Tensid(e) der Formel (I) enthalten.  Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (I) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (I).
Zusätzlich zu dem bzw. den Amphotensiden der Formel (I) oder an deren Stelle können die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, mit besonderem Vorzug als amphotere Tenside Betaine der Formel (II)  In addition to the amphoteric surfactant (s) of the formula (I) or in its place, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants, can be betaines of the formula (II)
Figure imgf000022_0001
Figure imgf000022_0001
enthalten, in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht. in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.
Diese Tenside werden nach der INCI-Nomenklatur als Amphoacetate bezeichnet, wobei die Vertreter, die sich von Kokosfettsäuren ableiten bevorzugt sind und als Cocoamphoactetate bezeichnet werden.  These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.
Besonders bevorzugt werden erfindungsgemäß Tenside der Formel (II) eingesetzt, die ein According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) which have a
Gemisch der folgenden Vertreter sind: Mixture of the following representatives are:
H3C-(CH2)7-C(0)-NH-(CH2)2NH+(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 2 NH + (CH 2 CH 2 OH) CH 2 CH 2 COO "
H3C-(CH2)9-C(0)-NH-(CH2)2NH+(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 9 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 2 NH + (CH 2 CH 2 OH) CH 2 CH 2 COO "
H3C-(CH2)11-C(0)-NH-(CH2)2NH+(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 11 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 2 NH + (CH 2 CH 2 OH) CH 2 CH 2 COO "
H3C-(CH2)13-C(0)-NH-(CH2)2NH+(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 13 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 2 NH + (CH 2 CH 2 OH) CH 2 CH 2 COO "
H3C-(CH2)15-C(0)-NH-(CH2)2NH+(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 15 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 2 NH + (CH 2 CH 2 OH) CH 2 CH 2 COO "
H3C-(CH2)7-CH=CH-(CH2)7-C(0)-NH-(CH2)2NH+(CH2CH2OH)CH2CH2COO" H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -CH = CH- (CH 2 ) 7 -C (O) -NH- (CH 2 ) 2 NH + (CH 2 CH 2 OH) CH 2 CH 2 COO "
Besonders bevorzugt werden Tenside der Formel (II) innerhalb engerer Mengenbereiche eingesetzt. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,25 bis 8 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,5 bis 7 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,75 bis 6,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 1 bis 5,5 Gew.-% Tensid(e) der Formel (VII) enthalten. Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, bevorzugt, bei denen der Rest R in den Formeln (I) und (II) ausgewählt ist aus H3C-(CH2)7-, H3C-(CH2)9-, H3C-(CH2)i , H3C-(CH2)13-, H3C-(CH2)15-, H3C-(CH2)7-CH=CH- (CH2)7- oder Mischungen aus diesen. Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (VII). In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are preferred in which the radical R in the formulas (I) and (II) is selected from H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -, H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 9 - , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) i , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 13- , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 15- , H 3 C- (CH 2 ) 7 -CH = CH- (CH 2 ) 7 - or mixtures of these.
Besonders bevorzugte nichtionische Tenside sind Alkylpolyglycoside. Demnach sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die als nichtionische Tenside Alkylpolyglycoside der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)x enthalten, wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions are preferred which contain as nonionic surfactants alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.
Alkylpolyglycoside (APG) sind nichtionische Tenside, die vollständig aus nachwachsenden Rohstoffen (Zuckerbausteine, vorwiegend Glucose z.B. aus Maisstärke und Fettalkohol z.B. aus Kokosöl) hergestellt werden. Alkylpolyglycoside sind durch sauer katalysierte Reaktion (Fischer- Reaktion) von Zuckern, insbesondere Glucose (oder Stärke) oder von Butylglycosiden mit Fettalkoholen zugänglich.  Alkylpolyglycosides (APG) are nonionic surfactants made entirely from renewable resources (sugar building blocks, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are accessible by acid-catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, especially glucose (or starch) or butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols.
Dabei entstehen komplexe Gemische aus Alkylmonoglucosid (Alkyl-a-D- und -ß-D-glucopyranosid sowie geringe Anteile -glucofuranosid), Alkyldiglucosiden (-isomaltoside, -maltoside etc.) und Alkyloligoglucosiden (-maltotrioside, -tetraoside etc.). Der durchschnittliche Polymerisationsgrad kommerzieller Produkte, deren Alkyl-Reste im Bereich C8-C16 liegen, beträgt 1 ,2-1 ,5.  Complex mixtures of alkyl monoglucoside (alkyl-α-D- and β-D-glucopyranoside and small amounts of glucofuranoside), alkyldiglucosides (-isomaltosides, maltosides, etc.) and alkyl oligoglucosides (maltotriosides, tetraosides, etc.) are formed. The average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range C8-C16 is 1, 2-1, 5.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt werden Alkylpolyglycoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO- (Z)x eingesetzt, wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglycoside, bei denen R According to the invention, preference is given to using alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO - (Z) x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R
im wesentlichen aus C8- und Cio-Alkylgruppen, consisting essentially of C 8 and C 10 -alkyl groups,
im wesentlichen aus Ci2- und Ci4-Alkylgruppen, essentially of C 2 - and Ci4 alkyl groups,
im wesentlichen aus C8- bis Ci6-Alkylgruppen oder consisting essentially of C 8 - to C 16 -alkyl groups or
im wesentlichen aus Ci2- bis Ci6-Alkylgruppen oder consisting essentially of Ci 2 - to Ci6-alkyl groups or
im wesentlichen aus d6 bis C-|8-Alkylgruppen besteht. essentially from d 6 to C- | 8 alkyl groups.
Als Zuckerbaustein Z können beliebige Mono- oder Oligosaccharide eingesetzt werden. Üblicherweise werden Zucker mit 5 bzw. 6 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie die entsprechenden Oligosaccharide eingesetzt. Solche Zucker sind beispielsweise Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose, Ribose, Xylose, Lyxose, Allose, Altrose, Mannose, Gulose, Idose, Talose und Sucrose. Bevorzugte Zuckerbausteine sind Glucose, Fructose, Galactose, Arabinose und Sucrose; Glucose ist besonders bevorzugt. As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendbaren Alkylpolyglycoside enthalten im Schnitt 1 , 1 bis 5 Zuckereinheiten. Alkylpolyglycoside mit x-Werten von 1 , 1 bis 2,0 sind bevorzugt. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind Alkylglycoside, bei denen x 1 ,1 bis 1 ,8 beträgt.  The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.
Zusätzlich zu den genannten Tensiden können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel auch anionische, kationische und gegebenenfalls auch weitere amphotere bzw. zwitterionische bzw. nichtionische Tenside enthalten.  In addition to the surfactants mentioned, the agents according to the invention may also contain anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
Als weiteren Pflegestoff können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Polymers aus der Gruppe der kationischen und/oder amphoteren Polymere enthalten. Vorzugsweise wird das Polymer bzw. werden die Polymere innerhalb engerer Mengenbereiche eingesetzt. So sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,05 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,2 bis 3,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,25 bis 2,5 Gew.-% amphotere(s) Polymer(e), enthalten. As a further care substance, the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers. Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).
Unabhängig davon, ob in den Mitteln amphotere Polymere enthalten sind oder nicht, sind weiter bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,05 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,2 bis 3,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,25 bis 2,5 Gew.-% kationische(s) Polymer(e), enthalten.  Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.
Bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise Preferred cationic polymers are, for example
quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat® und Polymer JR® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 und Polymerquaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially. The compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer ®
JR®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate, JR® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives,
kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686,  cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,
kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat® 50, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia®Guar und Jaguar® vertriebenen Produkte, cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar ® and Jaguar ® products,
polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid- Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon- Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat®734 und Gafquat®755 im Handel erhältlich, Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden, Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,  quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.  and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
Gleichfalls als kationische Polymere eingesetzt werden können die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-24 (Handelsprodukt z. B. Quatrisoft® LM 200), bekannten Polymere. Ebenfalls erfindungsgemäß verwendbar sind die Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons, wie sie als Handelsprodukte Copolymer 845 (Hersteller: ISP), Gaffix® VC 713 (Hersteller: ISP), Gafquat®ASCP 101 1 , Gafquat®HS 1 10, Luviquat®8155 und Luviquat® MS 370 erhältlich sind. Als kationische Polymere können auch kationische Proteinhydrolysate eingesetzt werden, wobei bevorzugte Mittel ein oder mehrere kationische Proteinhydrolysate aus der Gruppe Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltri- monium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein enthalten. Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ® HS 1 10, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are available. Cationic protein hydrolysates may also be used as cationic polymers, preferred agents being one or more cationic protein hydrolyzates from the group Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrim Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydr olyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,05 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,2 bis 3,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,25 bis 2,5 Gew.-% kationische(s) Polymer(e), enthalten, wobei bevorzugte kationische(s) Polymer(e) ausgewählt ist/sind aus Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) und/oder; quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivaten (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) und/oder kationischen Alkylpolyglycosiden und/oder kationisiertem Honig und/oder kationischen Guar-Derivaten und/oder polymeren Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalzen und deren Copolymeren mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure und/oder Copolymeren des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats und/oder Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymeren und/oder quaterniertem Polyvinylalkohol und/oder Polyquaternium 2 und/oder Polyquaternium-7 und/oder Polyquaternium 17 und/oder Polyquaternium 18 und/oder Polyquaternium 24 und/oder Polyquaternium 27. In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt cationic polymer (s), with preferred cationic polymer (s) being selected from poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium -37) and / or; quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or cationized honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers and / or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or Polyquaternium 2 and / or Polyquaternium-7 and / or Polyquaternium 17 and / or Polyquaternium 18 and / or Polyquaternium 24 and / or Polyquaternium 27th
Zusätzlich zu den kationischen Polymeren oder an ihrer Stelle können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel amphotere Polymere enthalten. Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel bevorzugt, bei denen das/die amphotere(n) Polymer(e) Co-Polymerisate mindestens eines der Monomere Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid und/oder Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid und/oder Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid und/oder Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat und/oder Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat und/oder Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid und/oderIn addition to the cationic polymers or in their place, the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers. In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred. in which the amphoteric polymer (s) co-polymers of at least one of the monomers trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylate and / or trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylate and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylat and or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or
Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat und/oder Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit mindestens einem der Monomere Acrylsäure und/oder Methacrylsäure und/oder Crotonsäure und/oder 2-Methyl-crotonsäure sind. Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylate and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylate and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylate having at least one of the monomers acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methylcrotonic acid.
Gemäß einer weiteren, besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel neben dem mindestens einen Pflegestoff zusätzlich Polymere, Proteine, Proteinhydrolysate und/oder Aminosäuren. According to a further, particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally contain polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids in addition to the at least one care substance.
Neben dem mindestens einen Pflegestoff können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel mit besonderem Vorzug eine oder mehrere Aminosäuren enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt einsetzbare Aminosäuren stammen aus der Gruppe Glycin, Alanin, Valin, Leucin, Isoleucin, Phenylalanin, Tyrosin, Tryptophan, Prolin, Asparaginsäure, Glutaminsäure, Asparagin, Glutamin, Serin, Threonin, Cystein, Methionin, Lysin, Arginin, Histidin, ß-Alanin, 4-Aminobuttersäure (GABA), Betain, L-Cystin (L-Cyss), L-Citrullin, L-Theanin, 3 ',4 '-Dihydroxy-L-phenylalanin (L-Dopa), 5 '- Hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-Homocystein, S-Methyl-L-methionin, S-Allyl-L-cystein-sulfoxid (L-Alliin), L- frans-4-Hydroxyprolin, L-5-Oxoprolin (L-Pyroglutaminsäure), L-Phosphoserin, Kreatin, 3-Methyl-L- histidin, L-Ornithin, wobei sowohl die einzelnen Aminosäuren als auch Mischungen eingesetzt werden können.  In addition to the at least one care substance, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) , L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthalten neben EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 und mindestens einem Pflegestoff eine oder mehrere Aminosäuren in engeren Mengenbereichen. Hier sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,02 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,075 bis 1 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Aminosäure(n), vorzugsweise aus der Gruppe Glycin und/oder Alanin und/oder Valin und/oder Lysin und/oder Leucin und/oder Threonin enthalten.  Preferred agents according to the invention contain, in addition to EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one care substance, one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1 , 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or Lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine included.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthalten bezogen auf ihr Gewicht  Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% glycine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% glycine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin, - 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% glycine, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% alanine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% alanine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% alanine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin. - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine.
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% glycine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% glycine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% glycine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% alanine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% alanine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% alanine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0, 1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin, - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine,
- 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-% EUK-1 18 und 0,75 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin. Ein weiterer, bevorzugter einsetzbarer Pflegestoff, der aktivierende Eigenschaften besitzt, ist das Taurin. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel enthalten als Pflegestoff - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,01 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,025 bis 12,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 7,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,5 bis 5 Gew.-% Taurin (2-Aminoethansulfonsäure).  - 0.000001 - 10 wt .-% EUK-1 18 and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine. Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, further preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).
Bevorzugt ist auch der zusätzlich Einsatz von Bisabolol und/oder Bisabololoxiden in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die zusätzlich 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 4 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,02 bis 2,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,1 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-% Bisabolol und/oder Oxide von Bisabolol, vorzugsweise (-)-alpha-Bisabolol enthalten.  Preference is also given to the additional use of bisabolol and / or bisabolol oxides in the agents according to the invention. Here, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions are preferred which additionally 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-% bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - contain alpha-bisabolol.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können zusätzlich zu den Pflegestoffen weitere Stoffe enthalten, die Haarausfall verhindern, lindern oder heilen. Insbesondere ist ein Gehalt an haarwurzelstabilisierenden Wirkstoffen vorteilhaft. Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel bevorzugt, die zusätzlich - bezogen auf sein Gewicht - 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Haarwurzel-stabilisierende Stoffe, insbesondere Minoxidil und/oder Finasterid und/oder Ketoconazol enthalten. The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the care substances, further substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight. Hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole included.
Durch zusätzliche Antischuppenwirkstoffe (beispielsweise Climbazol, Piroctone Olamine oder Zink- Pyrithion) wird die Menge des Schuppen verursachenden Hefepilzes gezielt reduziert, die Keimflora erreicht wieder die normale prozentuale Zusammensetzung und die Abschuppung wird auf das physiologische Maß reduziert. Labortests haben jedoch nachgewiesen, daß die unterschiedlichen Artvertreter des Pityrosporum ovale unterschiedlich gut auf die Antischuppenwirkstoffe reagieren. Um alle Schuppenerreger maximal zu bekämpfen ist daher eine Kombination von Anti-Schuppenwirkstoffen am erfolgreichsten.  Additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione) are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.
Zusammenfassend sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel bevorzugt, die zusätzlich - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-% Antischuppenwirkstoffe, insbesondere Piroctone Olamine (1- Hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trirnethylpentyl)pyridin-2(1 H)-on, Verbindung mit 2-Aminoethanol, 1 : 1 ) und/oder Zink-Pyrithion und/oder Selensulfid und/oder Climbazol und/oder Salicylsäure oder Fumarsäure enthalten.  In summary, agents according to the invention which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.
Eine bevorzugte Konfektionierungsform des erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittels, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittels, erfolgt in Form von Haar-Tonics oder Haarwässern. Diese enthalten bevorzugt neben EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 und mindestens einem Pflegestoff mindestens einen einwertigen Alkohol und optional einen Gelbildner enthalten.  A preferred form of preparation of the cosmetic agent according to the invention, in particular hair treatment agent, takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain besides EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 and at least one care substance at least one monohydric alcohol and optionally contain a gelling agent.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ein kosmetisches Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, enthaltend A further subject of the present invention is a cosmetic agent, in particular hair treatment agent containing
(a) EuK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18,  (a) EuK-134 and / or EUK-1 18,
(b) einen Pflegestoff,  (b) a care substance,
(c) 0, 1 bis 90 Gew.-% mindestens eines einwertigen Alkohols aus der Gruppe Ethanol, n-Propanol, Isoporopanol, n-Butanol,  (c) 0, 1 to 90 wt .-% of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,
(d) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Gelbildners.  (D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten 0,1 bis 90 Gew.-% mindestens eines einwertigen Alkohols aus der Gruppe Ethanol, n-Propanol, Isoporopanol, n-Butanol. Unter diesen sind Ethanol und/oder ispopropanol besonders bevorzugt. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,5 bis 85 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 1 bis 80 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 5 bis 75 Gew.- %, weiter bevorzugt 10 bis 70 Gew.-% und insbesondere 25 bis 60 Gew.-% Ethanol und/oder Isopropanol enthalten.  The compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 75% by weight preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.
Besonders bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, enthalten ausschließlich Ethanol. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 5 bis 80 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 7,5 bis 70 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 10 bis 60 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 20 bis 55 Gew.-% und insbesondere 25 bis 50 Gew.-% Ethanol enthalten, besonders bevorzugt.  Particularly preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, contain exclusively ethanol. Here are cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.
Ganz besonders bevorzugte sind kosmetische Mittel, die Very particularly preferred are cosmetic agents that
(a) EuK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18, (b) Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton, (a) EuK-134 and / or EUK-1 18, (b) panthenol and / or pantolactone,
(c) 0, 1 bis 90 Gew.-% mindestens eines einwertigen Alkohols aus der Gruppe Ethanol, n-Propanol, Isoporopanol, n-Butanol, bevorzugt Ethanol oder Propanol,  (c) 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol, preferably ethanol or propanol,
(d) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Gelbildners enthalten.  (D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können zusätzlich einen Gelbildner enthalten. Durch den Einsatz dieser Gelbildner kann die Haftung der Mittel auf dem Haar verbessert und die Applikation angenehmer gestaltet werden. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0, 15 bis 9 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,25 bis 7 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,3 bis 6 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,4 bis 5 Gew.-% mindestens eines Gelbildners aus den Gruppen der Kieselsäuren und/oder Schichtsilicate und/oder Organoschichtsilicate und/oder Metallseifen und/odergehärtetes Ricinusöl und/oder modifizierte Fett-Derivate und/oder Polyamide und/oder Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) und/oder Carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) und/oder Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) und/oder Hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) und/oder Ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) und/oder Polyvinylalkohole und/oder Polyacrylsäure und/oder Polymethacrylsäuren sowie deren Salze und/oder Polyacrylamide und/oder Polyvinylpyrrolidon und/oder Polyethylenglycole und/oder Styrol-Maleinsäureanhydrid-Copolymerisate sowie deren Salze und/oder Copolymere und/oder Terpolymere von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure und/oder Cellulose und/oder Stärke und/oder Xanthan enthalten.  The agents according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent. Through the use of these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Here, agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment agents, which are - based on their weight - 0, 15 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7 wt .-%, further preferably 0.3 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.4 to 5 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicas and / or layered silicates and / or organo-layer silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hardened castor oil and / or modified fat Derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and / or polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or polymethacrylic acids and their salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or polyethylene glycols and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of acr ylsäure and methacrylic acid and / or cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan gum.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel, insbesondere auch die erfindunsgemäßen Haarwässer und/oder Haar-Tonics, Emulgatoren (F) enthalten.  In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention, in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel Emulgatoren (F) enthalten. Hydrophile Emulgatoren bilden bevorzugt O/W - Emulsionen und hydrophobe Emulgatoren bilden bevorzugt W/O - Emulsionen. Unter einer Emulsion ist eine tröpfchenförmige Verteilung (Dispersion) einer Flüssigkeit in einer anderen Flüssigkeit unter Aufwand von Energie zur Schaffung von stabilisierenden Phasengrenzflächen mittels Tensiden zu verstehen. Die Auswahl dieser emulgierenden Tenside oder Emulgatoren richtet sich dabei nach den zu dispergierenden Stoffen und der jeweiligen äußeren Phase sowie der Feinteiligkeit der Emulsion. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Emulgatoren bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 - 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,5 - 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel.  In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.
Bevorzugt können die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mindestens einen nichtionogenen Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert von 8 bis 18 enthalten. Nichtionogene Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von 10 - 15 können erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sein. The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
Als weiterhin vorteilhaft hat es sich gezeigt, wenn zusätzlich zu dem bzw. den Polymer(en) aus der Gruppe der kationischen und/oder amphoteren Polymere weitere Polymere (G) in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln enthalten sind. In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform werden den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln daher weitere Polymere zugesetzt, wobei sich sowohl anionische als auch nichtionische Polymere als wirksam erwiesen haben. Bei den anionischen Polymeren (G2) handelt es sich um anionische Polymere, welche Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen aufweisen. Beispiele für anionische Monomere, aus denen derartige Polymere bestehen können, sind Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäureanhydrid und 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure. Dabei können die sauren Gruppen ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen. Bevorzugte Monomere sind 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und Acrylsäure. It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, further polymers are added to the compositions according to the invention, both anionic and nonionic polymers having proven effective. The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
Als ganz besonders wirkungsvoll haben sich anionische Polymere erwiesen, die als alleiniges oder Co-Monomer 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure enthalten, wobei die Sulfonsäuregruppe ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen kann. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
Besonders bevorzugt ist das Homopolymer der 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure, das beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Rheothik®1 1-80 im Handel erhältlich ist. More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ® 1 1-80 is.
(G4) enthalten. (G4).
Geeignete nichtionogene Polymere sind beispielsweise: 'Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhy- droxypropylcellulose, Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, Schellack Polyvinylpyrrolidone Siloxane. Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone. Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: 'vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and Methylhy- hydroxypropylcellulose, starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, shellac, polyvinyl siloxanes. Glycosidically substituted silicones.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß auch möglich, daß die Zubereitungen mehrere, insbesondere zwei verschiedene Polymere gleicher Ladung und/oder jeweils ein ionisches und ein amphoteres und/oder nicht ionisches Polymer enthalten.  It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
Die weiteren Polymere (G) sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1 bis 5, insbesondere von 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-%, sind besonders bevorzugt.  The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
Weiterhin kann in einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung ein erfindungsgemäßes Mittel auch UV - Filter (I) enthalten. Die erfindungsgemäß zu verwendenden UV-Filter unterliegen hinsichtlich ihrer Struktur und ihrer physikalischen Eigenschaften keinen generellen Einschränkungen. Vielmehr eignen sich alle im Kosmetikbereich einsetzbaren UV-Filter, deren Absorptionsmaximum im UVA(315-400 nm)-, im UVB(280-315nm)- oder im UVC(<280 nm)-Bereich liegt. UV-Filter mit einem Absorptionsmaximum im UVB-Bereich, insbesondere im Bereich von etwa 280 bis etwa 300 nm, sind besonders bevorzugt.  Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
Die UV-Filter (I) sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln üblicherweise in Mengen 0,1 -5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,4-2,5 Gew.-% sind bevorzugt.  The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions according to the invention usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können weiterhin eine 2-Pyrrolidinon-5-carbonsäure und deren Derivate (J) enthalten. Bevorzugt sind die Natrium-, Kalium-, Calcium-, Magnesium- oder Ammoniumsalze, bei denen das Ammoniumion neben Wasserstoff eine bis drei d- bis C4- Alkylgruppen trägt. Das Natriumsalz ist ganz besonders bevorzugt. Die eingesetzten Mengen in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln betragen vorzugsweise 0,05 bis 10 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 5, und insbesondere 0,1 bis 3 Gew.%. The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, more preferably 0, 1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3% by weight.
Eine besonders bevorzugte Gruppe von Pflegestoffen stellen die Silikone dar. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Mittel enthalten das bzw. die Silikon(e) vorzugsweise in Mengen von 0, 1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,25 bis 7 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 0,5 bis 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. A particularly preferred group of care agents are the silicones. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie, bezogen auf ihr Gewicht, 0,01 bis 10 Gew.%, vorzugsweise 0, 1 bis 8 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,25 bis 7,5 Gew.% und insbesondere 0,5 bis 5 Gew.% aminofunktionelle(s) Silikon(e) enthalten.  Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel weisen vorteilhafte Eigenschaften auf und verleihen den mit ihnen behandelten Haaren ebenfalls vorteilhafte Eigenschaften. Insbesondere bei der Haar- und Kopfhautbehandlung wurden Vorteile beobachtet. So steigern erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmittel, die Elastizität der mit ihnen behandelten Haare und führen zu einer innerstrukturellen Stärkung der Haarfasern, welche sich z.B. in höheren Schmelztemperaturen bei der Differenzthermoanalyse niederschlägt. The compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Benefits have been observed especially in hair and scalp treatment. Thus, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which can be obtained, for example, from reflected in higher melting temperatures in differential thermal analysis.
Es zeigt sich auch eine Verbesserung der Naß- und Trockenkämmbarkeiten sowie eine Verhinderung frühzeitiger Splißbildung bei den behandelten Haaren. Auf der Haut und insbesondere der Kopfhaut bewirken die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel eine Erhöhung der Elastizität und überraschenderweise sebumregulierende Effekte. Der optische Eindruck„fettiger" Haut oder Haare wird damit vermieden bzw. abgeschwächt.  There is also an improvement in wet and dry combabilities and prevention of premature splitting in the treated hair. On the skin and in particular the scalp, the compositions according to the invention cause an increase in the elasticity and, surprisingly, sebum-regulating effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung die Verwendung von erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mitteln, insbesondere Haarbehandlungsmitteln, zur Verbesserung mindestens einer der Eigenschaften  Another object of the present invention is the use of cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, for improving at least one of the properties
Zugfestigkeit von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren;  Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;
Kämmbarkeit von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren;  Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;
Farbbrillanz von coloriertem Haar,  Color brilliance of colored hair,
Verringerung der Elastizitätsabnahme von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren bei Beschädigung durch atmosphärische Einwirkungen.  Reduction in elasticity of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, when damaged by atmospheric agents.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK- 1 18 den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden. A further subject of the present invention is the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 the agents according to the invention for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.
Unter dem Begriff der Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses wird im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung die positive oder negative Beeinflussung der natürlichen Farbgebung/Färbung und/oder Pigmentierung der Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilde, insbesondere die Stimulierung oder die partielle oder vollständige Inhibierung des natürlichen, d.h. biologischen Pigmentierungsprozesses in Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden, insbesonderen Haaren bzw. Haarfollikeln verstanden.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "influencing the natural pigmentation process" means the positive or negative influence on the natural coloration / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, i. understood biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles.
Unter Haut und Hautanhangsgebilde im erfindungsgemäßen Zusammenhang sind die Haut, die Schleimhaut, die Haare und ihre Haarfollikel, Drüsen und Nägel, insbesondere Haut, Schleimhaut, Haare und Haarfollikel, zu verstehen. Besonders bevorzugt ist unter dem Begriff Haut die Haut ohne Schleimhaut zu verstehen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist unter dem Begriff Hautanhangsgebilde Haare bzw. Haarfollikel, bevorzugt Körperhaar, Barthaar und Kopfhaar, ganz besonders bevorzugt Barthaar und Kopfhaar, ganz besonders bevorzugt Kopfhaar bzw. die entsprechenden Haarfollikel zu verstehen. Under skin and skin appendages in the context of the invention, the skin, the mucosa, the hair and its hair follicles, glands and nails, especially skin, mucous membranes, hair and hair follicles to understand. The term skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Hair or hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, are very particularly preferred under the term skin appendages especially preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles.
Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird unter der Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses, die positive oder negative Beeinflussung mindestens ein Teilschritt des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses verstanden. Diese Beeinflussung betrifft insbesondere die Regulation solcher molekularer Signale, die den biologischen bzw. natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozess beeinflussen.  According to a preferred embodiment, the influencing of the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influencing at least one partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence relates in particular to the regulation of such molecular signals that influence the biological or natural pigmentation process.
Bevorzugt ist die Regulation des biologischen bzw. natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses durch Genregulation, d.h. die Regulation auf Expressionsebene, und/oder Enzymregulation, d.h. die Regulation auf Aktivitätsebene, und/oder die Regulation auf Hormonebene. Besonders bevorzugt ist die Regulation der Melanogenese, insbesondere in den Melanozyten, bevorzugt des Haares, unter anderem die Regulation der Genexpression von MCR1 (Melanocortinrezeptor 1 ), gp100 sowie ckit. Weiterhin ist auch die Regulation der Tyrosinase, sowohl der Genexpression der Tyrosinase als auch die Regulation auf Enzymebene umfasst.l  Preferably, the regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation process by gene regulation, i. the regulation at the expression level, and / or enzyme regulation, i. the regulation at the activity level, and / or the regulation at the hormone level. Particularly preferred is the regulation of melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, preferably of the hair, inter alia, the regulation of gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. Furthermore, the regulation of tyrosinase, both the gene expression of tyrosinase and the regulation at the enzyme level includes.l
Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird der natürliche Pigmentierungsprozess des Haares beeinflusst, insbesondere stimuliert bzw. angeregt. Insbesondere wird als Beeinflussung die positive Beeinflussung, bevorzugt die positive Regulation (Hochregulation bzw. Aktivierung bzw. Anregung bzw. Erhöhung) verstanden, die zu einer Stimulierung des natürlichen, biologischen Pigmentierungsprozesses führt. Besonders bevorzugt ist die Stimulierung der Melanogenese im menschlichen Haarfollikel, insbesondere des Kopfhaares (der Haarfollikel, die sich auf der Kopfhaut/dem Oberkopf befinden). Besonders bevorzugt als Regulation auf Hormonebene ist die Induktion melanogenesestimulierender Hormone, insbesondere alpha-MSH und/oder ACTH (Corticotrophin, Adrenocorticotropin, adrenocorticotropes Hormon). Besonders bevorzugt als Regulation auf Enzymebene (beispielsweise der Tyrosinase) ist die Stimulation, insbesondere Erhöhung der Menge und/oder Aktivität des Enzyms (z.B. der Tyrosinase) sowie jegliche andere Form der Stimulation.  According to a preferred embodiment, the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated or stimulated. In particular, the positive influence, preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or excitation or increase) is understood as influencing, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation process. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, especially the hair of the head (the hair follicles located on the scalp / head). Particularly preferred as regulation at the hormone level is the induction of melanogenesis-stimulating hormones, in particular alpha-MSH and / or ACTH (corticotrophin, adrenocorticotropin, adrenocorticotropic hormone). Particularly preferred as an enzyme-level regulation (e.g., tyrosinase) is stimulation, especially increase in the amount and / or activity of the enzyme (e.g., tyrosinase), as well as any other form of stimulation.
Erfindungsgemäß kann der Pigmentierungsprozess, insbesondere die Melanogenese, der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde, bevorzugt des Haares bzw. des Haarfollikels beeinflusst werden. Insbesondere kann der natürliche Pigmentierungsprozeß, insbesondere die Melanogenese, bei Säugetieren, besonders bevorzugt bei Menschen beeinflusst werden. Die Melanogenese wird bevorzugt in den Melanozyten, insbesondere bevorzugt des Haares bzw. des Haarfollikels beeinflusst. Eine reine Erhöhung der Anzahl vitaler, lebensfähiger bzw. zur Produktion von Melanin fähiger Melanozyten im Haarfollikel bzw. die Erhöhung deren allgemeiner Vitalität ist bevorzugt nicht umfasst. Bevorzugt wird der Pigmentierungsprozess, bevorzugt die Melanogenese, des menschlichen Haares bzw. des menschlichen Haarfollikels beeinflusst.  According to the invention, the pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle, can be influenced. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, can be influenced in mammals, particularly preferably in humans. The melanogenesis is preferably influenced in the melanocytes, particularly preferably the hair or the hair follicle. A mere increase in the number of vital, viable or melanocytes capable of producing melanin in the hair follicle or the increase in their general vitality is preferably not included. Preferably, the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.
Unter Stimulierung der Melanogenese, bevorzugt der Melanogenese im Haarfollikel, ist erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt die Stimulierung, Erhöhung, Anregung bzw. Verbesserung der Melaninsynthese in den Melanozyten (bevorzugt der Melanozyten im Haarfollikel) zu verstehen. Dies wird beispielsweise durch eine Erhöhung der Genexpression von Signalmolekülen wie MCR1 (Melanocortinrezeptor 1 ), gp100 sowie ckit erreicht. Gemäß einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird die Beeinflussung, bevorzugt Stimulierung, der Melanogenese durch die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung erreicht. Insbesondere wird die Melanogenese, insbesondere in den Melanozyten, bevorzugt im Haar bzw. Haarfollikel der behaarten Kopfhaut und/oder des Bartes, insbesondere beim Menschen stimuliert. By stimulating melanogenesis, preferably melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably the melanocytes in the hair follicle) is particularly preferred according to the invention. This is achieved, for example, by an increase in gene expression of signaling molecules such as MCR1 (Melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit achieved. According to a preferred embodiment, the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention. In particular, melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, is preferably stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.
Im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung ist unter der Stimulierung der Pigmentierung insbesondere die Verbesserung, Erhöhung und/oder Stimulierung des Transports der Melanosomen in die den Haarfollikel umgebende Keratinozyten sowie weiterhin die mit dem Auge oder entsprechend geeigneten Meßmethoden wahrnehmbare Pigmentierung des einzelnen Haares, einer Auswahl von Haaren, insbesondere einem Areal behaarter Haut, insbesondere Kopfhaut, oder des gesamten Kopf- und/oder Barthaares zu verstehen.  For the purposes of the present invention, the stimulation of the pigmentation means, in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.
Überraschenderweise wurde gefunden, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 dazu geeignet ist, die Pigmentierung des Haares zu stimulieren bzw. zu verbessern. Gleichzeitig erhält wird das Haar bei der Anwendung (verbessert) gepflegt. Im Rahmen einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird durch die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 die Haarergrauung, insbesondere des menschlichen Haares, verhindert, bevorzugt im wesentlichen verhindert, und/oder verringert. Unter Haarergrauung ist im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sowohl die optisch durch die Mischung weißer und pigmentierter Haare wahrnehmbare Haarergrauung sowie die Pigmentverdünnung in einem einzelnen Haar, also die Ergrauung eines einzelnen Haares, zu verstehen.  Surprisingly, it has been found that the compositions according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 are suitable for stimulating or improving the pigmentation of the hair. At the same time the hair is maintained during the application (improved). Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, hair granulation, in particular of human hair, is prevented, preferably substantially prevented, and / or reduced by the compositions according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18. For the purposes of the present invention, hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.
Eine Verhinderung der Haarergrauung erfolgt insbesondere bei noch nicht ergrauten Haaren, eine Verringerung der Haarergrauung kann sowohl bei bereits ergrautem als auch bei noch nicht ergrauten Haaren stattfinden. In dem einen Fall werden Haarfollikel, in welchen die Melanogenese nicht, nicht mehr oder nicht vollständig funktioniert bzw. gestört oder reduziert ist, wieder zur Melanogenese angeregt/stimuliert, während in nicht ergrauten Haaren/Haarfollikeln eine Störung, Reduktion bzw. Herunterregulation der Melanogenese gar nicht erst oder nur in geringerem Maße stattfindet. A prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying. In one case, hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced, again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.
Gemäß einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird bereits ergrautes Haar durch die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 bzw. den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln repigmentiert.  According to a further preferred embodiment, hair that has already been grayed out is repigmented by the use according to the invention of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 or the agents according to the invention.
Gemäß einer weiteren besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform handelt es sich bei der erfindungsgemäßen Verwendung um eine kosmetische Verwendung, die nicht-therapeutisch ist. Insbesondere die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung, die auf die durch den natürlichen Alterungsprozeß entstehende, insbesondere nicht-krankhafte Haarergrauung abzielt, ist eine rein kosmetische Verwendung, die keine Behandlung und/oder Prophylaxe einer Krankheit darstellt somit nicht-therapeutisch ist.  According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic. In particular, the use according to the invention, which aims at the hair growth caused by the natural aging process, in particular non-diseased hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use which does not represent a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease, thus being non-therapeutic.
Gemäß einer besonderen Ausführungsform erfolgt die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung topisch, d.h. durch Auftragen auf die Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilde, insbesondere die Gesichts- und/oder Kopfhaut, insbesondere die Kopfhaut. Gemäß einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform wird bereits ergrautes Haar durch die erfindungsgemäße Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 bzw. die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel repigmentiert. According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention takes place topically, ie by application to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or scalp, in particular the scalp. According to a further preferred embodiment, already gray hair is repigmented by the use according to the invention of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 or the agents according to the invention.
Überraschender weise wurde gefunden, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bzw. die Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18, in der Lage ist, den natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozess, insbesondere im Haar bzw. Haarfollikel, in synergistischer Weise positiv zu beeinflussen, insbesondere zu stimulieren. Die erfindungsgemäße Kombination induzierte sowohl die Genexpression von MCR-1 als auch die von ckit und gp100 in synergistischer Weise. Darüber hinaus konnte eine synergistische Steigerung der Melaninsynthese beobachtet werden.  Surprisingly, it has been found that the agents according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 are capable of positively influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, in particular stimulate. The combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.
Durch Anwendung der erfindungsgemäßen Kombination bzw. erfindungsgemäße verwendeter Mittel kann somit der natürliche Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden beeinflusst, inbesondere stimuliert werden. Insbesondere kann damit der natürliche Pigmentierungsprozess des Haares, des Haarfollikels bzw. im Haarfollikel beeinflusst, insbesondere stimuliert, werden. Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mittel sind geeignet, die Pigmentierung des Haares stimulieren und/oder verbessern, die Melanogenese, insbesondere im Haarfollikel, zu stimulieren, die Haarergrauung zu verhindern und/oder verringern sowie ergrautes Haar zu repigmentieren. By applying the combination according to the invention or agents used according to the invention, the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages. In particular, this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle. The compositions used in the invention are suitable for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.
Bezüglich weiterer bevorzugter Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Verwendung gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln Gesagte.  With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agents used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist ein Verfahren zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden, insbesondere Stimulierung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses, insbesondere der Melanogenese, bevorzugt in Melanozyten, und/oder der Pigmentierung des Haares, zur Verhinderung und/oder der Verringerung der Haarergrauung und/oder zur Repigmentierung von ergrautem Haar, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass man EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 topisch mit Haar und/oder Haut in Kontakt bringt. Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, preferably in melanocytes, and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 is brought into contact with hair and / or skin topically.
Bezüglich weiterer bevorzugter Ausführungsformen des erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den erfindungsgemäßen Verwendungen bzw. Mitteln Gesagte.  With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the uses or agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
Die nachstehenden Beispiele sollen den Gegenstand der Erfindung näher erläutern, ohne ihn zu beschränken. Beispiel 1 : The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it. Example 1 :
Nachweis der differentiellen Expression von melanogeneserelevanten Genen nach Behandlung mit EUK-134  Detection of the differential expression of melanogenesis-relevant genes after treatment with EUK-134
Die an der Melanogenese beteiligten Liganden wie SCF oder alpha-MSH (Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone alpha) binden an verschiedene Rezeptoren, durch die das entsprechende Signal ins Zellinnere weitergeleitet wird. Der Rezeptor für SCF ist ckit, der Rezeptor für alpha-MSH ist MCR-1 (Melanocortin Receptor 1 ). Solche Substanzen, die eine Veränderung der Expression von MCR-1 und/oder ckit hervorrufen, können die Melanogenese beeinflussen. Im Falle einer Induktion (Hochregulierung oder Stimulierung) der Genexpression der entsprecheden Rezeptoren, ist von einer Stimulierung der Melanogenese auszugehen.  The ligands involved in melanogenesis, such as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone alpha) bind to various receptors, by which the corresponding signal is transmitted to the cell interior. The receptor for SCF is ckit, the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1). Such substances which cause a change in the expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit may influence melanogenesis. In the case of induction (upregulation or stimulation) of the gene expression of the corresponding receptors, a stimulation of the melanogenesis is to be assumed.
Gp100 ist ein Protein, das in der Membran von Melanosomen vorkommt und diese stabilisiert. Da nach Applikation von Substanzen, die die Melanogenese positiv beeinflussen, vermehrt Melanin in den Zellen produziert wird, kommt es auch zu einer Vermehrung der zum Transport benötigten Melanosomen. Eine Substanz, die die Genexpression von gp100 induziert, ist daher ein die Pigmentierung stimulierenderWirkstoff.  Gp100 is a protein found and stabilized in the membrane of melanosomes. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive influence on melanogenesis, there is an increase in the number of melanosomes required for transport. A substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore a pigment stimulating agent.
Besonders bevorzugte Substanzen, die den natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden, insbesondere Haaren bzw. Haarfollikeln stimuieren, sind solche, die sowohl die Genexpression von MCR-1 und/oder ckit hervorrufen als auch die Genexpression von gp100 induzieren.  Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which both cause gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and also induce gene expression of gp100.
Die Bestimmung des Ausmaßes der Veränderung der Genexpression nach einer Applikation solcher Substanzen auf geeignete Zellen/Zellsysteme/Gewebekulturen, kann Aussagen über die Effektivität des Wirkstoffes liefern.  The determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.
Nach Herstellung von dreidimensionalen organotypischen Haarfollikelzellkulturen aus dermalen Papillenzellen auf Microcarriern wurden diese für 72h mit EUK-134 inkubiert. Zur Durchführung der PCR wird zunächst mit Hilfe des RNeasy Mini Kits der Fa. Qiagen die RNA aus den organotypischen Zellkulturen isoliert und mittels reverser Transkription in cDNA umgeschrieben. Bei der anschließenden PCR Reaktion, die mit Hilfe genspezifischer Primer für die jeweiligen Gene durchgeführt wird und die der Amplifikation der gesuchten Genabschnitte dient, wird die Bildung der PCR-Produkte online über ein Fluoreszenzsignal detektiert. Das Fluoreszenzsignal ist dabei proportional zur Menge des gebildeten PCR-Produktes. Je stärker die Expression eines bestimmten Gens ist, desto größer ist die Menge an gebildetem PCR-Produkt und umso höher ist das Fluoreszenzsignal.  After preparation of three-dimensional organotypic hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells on microcarriers, they were incubated with EUK-134 for 72 h. To carry out the PCR, the RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
Zur Quantifizierung der Genexpression wird die unbehandelte Kontrolle gleich 1 gesetzt und die Expression der zu bestimmenden Gene darauf bezogen (x-fache Expression). Dabei werden Werte, die größer/gleich der 1 ,8fachen Expression oder kleiner/gleich der 0,5 fachen Expression der unbehandelten Kontrolle sind als signifikant differentiell exprimiert eingestuft. Werte, die größer/gleich der 1 ,5fachen Expression oder kleiner/gleich der OJfachen Expression der unbehandelten Kontrolle sind als tendenziell differentiell exprimiert eingestuft.  To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8 times the expression or less than or equal to 0.5 times the expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to the O-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed.
Tabelle 1 : Einfluss von EUK-134 auf die Expression melanogenese-regulierender Gene Konz gp100 ckit Table 1: Influence of EUK-134 on the expression of melanogenesis-regulating genes Conc gp100 ckit
MW SD MW SD  MW SD MW SD
Unbehandelt 1,0 0,96 1,0 0,35  Untreated 1.0 0.96 1.0 0.35
EUK-134 0,005% 1,2 1 ,05 2,0 2, 18  EUK-134 0.005% 1.2 1, 05 2.0 2, 18
0,01 % 1,7 0,40 2,6 1 , 10  0.01% 1.7 0.40 2.6 1, 10
0,05% 4,5 1 ,98 7,0 0,23  0.05% 4.5 1, 98 7.0 0.23
0,1 % 3,1 0,29 7,0 0, 18  0.1% 3.1 0.29 7.0 0, 18
Nach der Applikation von EUK-134 konnte für beide untersuchten Gene gp100 und ckit eine konzentrationsabhängige Induktion der Genexpression im Vergleich zur unbehandelten Kontrolle nachgewiesen werden. Following the application of EUK-134, a concentration-dependent induction of gene expression was detected for both genes gp100 and ckit compared to the untreated control.
Beispiel 2: Example 2:
Nachweis der Induktion von gp100 mittels Western Blot Analyse  Evidence of Induction of gp100 by Western Blot Analysis
Neben der Induktion der Genexpression ist die Translation in die entsprechenden Proteine ebenfalls von Bedeutung für die Beeinflussung zellulärer Mechnismen. Die Expression von gp100 wurde daher zusätzlich auf Proteinebene mittels Western Blot Technik nachgewiesen. Dazu wurden aus dreidimensionalen organotypischen Haarfollikelzellkulturen aus dermalen Papillenzellen und Haarfollikelmelanozyten, die über 72h mit EUK-134 behandelt wurden, die Proteine extrahiert und elektrophoretisch aufgetrennt. Anschließend erfolgte die Übertragung der Proteine auf eine Nitrocellulosemembran (Blotting). Auf dieser Membran kann das gesuchte Protein dann mittels spezifischer Antikörper detektiert und im Verhältnis zur unbehandelten Kontrolle (=1 ) quantifiziert werden.  In addition to the induction of gene expression, translation into the corresponding proteins is also important for influencing cellular mechanisms. The expression of gp100 was therefore additionally detected at the protein level by Western Blot technique. For this purpose, the proteins were extracted from three-dimensional organotypical hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells and hair follicle melanocytes, which were treated with EUK-134 for 72 h, and separated by electrophoresis. Subsequently, the proteins were transferred to a nitrocellulose membrane (blotting). On this membrane, the protein sought can then be detected by means of specific antibodies and quantified in relation to the untreated control (= 1).
Tabelle 2: Einfluss von EUK-134 auf die Expression von gp100 bezogen auf die unbehandelte Kontrolle [%]
Figure imgf000036_0001
Table 2: Influence of EUK-134 on the expression of gp100 relative to the untreated control [%]
Figure imgf000036_0001
Bei einer Einsatzkonzentration von 0,1 % konnte die Proteinexpression von gp100 im Vergleich zur unbehandelten Kontrolle um 24% induziert werden. Beispiel 3: At a use concentration of 0.1%, the protein expression of gp100 could be induced by 24% compared to the untreated control. Example 3:
Stimulierung der Melaninsynthese  Stimulation of melanin synthesis
Beim Melanin handelt es sich um einen Farbstoff, welcher in den Melanosomen der Melanocyten produziert und gespeichert wird. Melanin gibt dem Haar seine eigentliche Farbe, wobei die Färbung durch ein Gemisch von zwei Arten des Melanins, Eu- und Pheomelanin entsteht. Die Melanogenese ist ein komplizierter und vielfach regulierter Syntheseprozess. Dabei wird zunächst Tyrosin durch das Enzym Tyrosinase in L-Dihydroxyphenylalanin (L-DOPA) und dann über mehrere Zwischenschritte in die verschiedenen Melaninpigmente umgesetzt. Ein Wirkstoff, der die Melanogenese positiv beeinflusst und zu einem erhöhten Melaningehalt in den Haarfollikelmelanozyten führt, ist besonders geeignet den natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden zu beeinflussen, die Haarergrauung zu verhindern und/oder die Pigmentierung stimulieren.  Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its true color, whereby the coloration is produced by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complicated and often regulated synthesis process. First, tyrosine is converted by the enzyme tyrosinase into L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then through several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments. An active agent which positively influences melanogenesis and leads to an increased melanin content in hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, preventing hair graying and / or stimulating pigmentation.
Zur Untersuchung des Melaningehaltes wurden isolierte, organ-kultivierte Haarfollikel über 7 Tage mit EUK-134 behandelt. Als Kontrolle dienten unbehandelte Haarfollikel. Nach 7 Tagen wurden die Haarfollikeläquivalente homogenisiert und das Melanin mittels NaOH (1 M) + 10% DMSO bei 100°C über 45 min extrahiert. Aliquots der Proben wurden anschließend in eine 96well Platte überführt und die Extinktion bei 492 nm gemessen. Evaluiert wurde der Anstieg des Melaningehaltes von Tag 0 zu Tag 7. Dazu wurden alle Werte auf die unbehandelte Kontrolle an Tag 7 (=100%) bezogen.  To study the melanin content, isolated, organ-cultured hair follicles were treated with EUK-134 for 7 days. Untreated hair follicles were used as controls. After 7 days, the hair follicle equivalents were homogenized and the melanin extracted with NaOH (1 M) + 10% DMSO at 100 ° C over 45 min. Aliquots of the samples were then transferred to a 96well plate and the absorbance measured at 492 nm. The increase in the melanin content was evaluated from day 0 to day 7. All values were related to the untreated control on day 7 (= 100%).
Tabelle 3: Melaningehalt in organotypischen Haarfollikelzellkulturen nach Behandlung mit EUK-134  Table 3: Melanin content in organotypic hair follicle cell cultures after treatment with EUK-134
Figure imgf000037_0001
Figure imgf000037_0001
Sowohl bei einer Einsatzkonzentration von 0,05% sowie von 0,1 % konnte der Melaningehalt der organotypischen Haarfollikelzellkulturen im Vergleich zur unbehandelten Kontrolle induziert werden. Dabei unterscheiden sich die Werte bei einer Konzentration von 0,05% hochsignifikant (p-Wert bestimmt mittels Student t-test), bei einer Einsatzkonzentration von 0,1 % signifikant vom Kontrollwert.  Both at a use concentration of 0.05% and 0.1%, the melanin content of the organotypic hair follicle cell cultures could be induced compared to the untreated control. At a concentration of 0.05%, the values differ highly significantly (p-value determined by Student t-test), at a use concentration of 0.1% significantly from the control value.

Claims

Patentansprüche: claims:
1. Kosmetisches Mittel, enthaltend 1. Cosmetic agent containing
a. EUK-134 und/oder EUK 1 18 sowie  a. EUK-134 and / or EUK 1 18 as well as
b. mindestens einen Pflegestoff.  b. at least one care substance.
2. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 in einer Gesamtmenge von von 0,000001 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,00001 - 5 Gew.- %, besonders bevorzugt 0,0001 - 2 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,001 - 1 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des Mittels, enthält.  2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 in a total amount of from 0.000001 - 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001 - 5 wt%, especially preferably 0.0001 - 2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains.
3. Kosmetisches Mittel nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Pflegestoff ausgewählt ist aus Polymeren (bevorzugt kationische und/oder amphothere Polymeren), Pflanzenextrakte, Vitamine, Provitamine oder Vitaminvorstufen, Kohlenhydrate, Chinone, insbesondere Biochinone, bevorzugt Ubichinone, Bisabolol und/oder Bisaboloxiden, Taurin, Silikone, Furanone, pflanzliche Öle, Harnstoff und Harnstoffderivate, Kreatin, Ectoin, a-Hydro- xycarbonsäure, α-Ketocarbonsäure oder ß-Hydroxycarbonsäure oder deren Ester-, Lacton- oder Salzform, Fettsäuretriglyceride, Flavonoide und/oder Isoflavonoide; insbesondere ausgewählt aus der Gruppe Monosaccharide, Disaccharide, Oligosaccharide, Taurin, Carnitin, Carnitinderivate, Kreatin, Ectoin, Panthenol und Pantolacton, besonders bevorzugt Panthenol, Pantolacton, Carnitin und/oder Carnitintartrat.  3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the care substance is selected from polymers (preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers), plant extracts, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, carbohydrates, quinones, especially biochinones, preferably ubiquinones, bisabolol and or bisaboloxides, taurine, silicones, furanones, vegetable oils, urea and urea derivatives, creatine, ectoine, α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form, fatty acid triglycerides, flavonoids and / or isoflavones; in particular selected from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, taurine, carnitine, carnitine derivatives, creatine, ectoine, panthenol and pantolactone, more preferably panthenol, pantolactone, carnitine and / or carnitine tartrate.
4. Verwendung von EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 oder einer Zubereitung gemäß Anspruch 1 bis 3 zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden, insbesondere des Haares.  4. Use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 or a preparation according to claim 1 to 3 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the hair.
5. Verwendung nach Anspruch 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens ein Teilschritt des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses stimuliert wird.  5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that at least one sub-step of the natural pigmentation process is stimulated.
6. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 4 oder 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Pigmentierung des Haares stimuliert und/oder verbessert wird.  6. Use according to one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that the pigmentation of the hair is stimulated and / or improved.
7. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 4 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Melanogenese, insbesondere in den Melanozyten, bevorzugt im Haar, beeinflusst, bevorzugt stimuliert, wird.  7. Use according to one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, preferably in the hair, influenced, preferably stimulated, is.
8. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 4 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Haarergrauung verhindert und/oder verringert wird.  8. Use according to one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the hair graying is prevented and / or reduced.
9. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 4 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das ergraute Haar repigmentiert wird.  9. Use according to one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the gray hair is repigmented.
10. Verwendung nach einem der Ansprüche 4 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Verwendung eine kosmetische, nicht-therapeutische Verwendung ist.  Use according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that the use is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use.
1 1. Verfahren zur Beeinflussung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses von Haut und/oder Hautanhangsgebilden, insbesondere Stimulierung des natürlichen Pigmentierungsprozesses, insbesondere der Melanogenese, bevorzugt in Melanozyten, und/oder der Pigmentierung des Haares, zur Verhinderung und/oder der Verringerung der Haarergrauung und/oder zur Repigmentierung von ergrautem Haar, dadurch gekennzeichnet,dass man EUK-134 und/oder EUK-1 18 topisch mit Haar und/oder Haut in Kontakt bringt. 1 1. A method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, preferably in melanocytes, and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing the Haarergrauung and / or to Gray hair repigmentation, characterized in that EUK-134 and / or EUK-1 18 are contacted topically with hair and / or skin.
PCT/EP2010/061811 2009-12-18 2010-08-13 Cosmetics containing euk-134 and/or euk-118 and at least one cosmetic care substance WO2011079971A2 (en)

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