DE102009054980A1 - Cosmetic compositions containing EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and at least one conditioner - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic agents containing EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and at least one care substance, and the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 to influence the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.

Description

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and at least one conditioner, as well as the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

In addition to their actual physiological tasks such as thermal insulation and light protection, hair has a psychosocial function that should not be underestimated. Among other things, they serve as a means of interpersonal communication and are a sign of their own individuality. Changes, such as the graying, can lead to a massive impairment of the self-confidence of the person concerned.

So far, the causes of hair graying are not combated, but the hair is treated for gray coverage with the help of chemical often aggressive and thus damaging the hair colorations. In addition, customers often complain of lack of compatibility (itching, burning, stinging) and sustainability (approach must be re-dyed regularly). The effectiveness of currently isolated on the market biological products is not scientifically proven and often doubtful. Significantly effective, biologically active agents that affect the graying process directly at the root, are not used.

Pigmentation in the hair follicle is controlled by a defined complex set of molecular signals. Since melanogenesis in gray follicles is obviously influenced, it can be assumed that parts of this network are modified in the gray follicle. A sequelae is the reduction in melanin synthesis, which leads to graying of the follicle. The complex set of molecular signals affecting melanogenesis includes, among others, the expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. MCR1 and ckit are receptors that relay key melanogenesis signals through the binding of their alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (alpha-MSH) and stem cell factor (SCF) ligands into the cell's interior. Gp100 is a protein of the melanosomal membrane and also regulates other melanogno-relevant proteins. Since these parameters are of essential importance in hair follicle pigmentation, it is advantageous to influence these parameters if the application of a test formulation is intended to maintain or reactivate melanin synthesis in the hair follicle cells. Maintaining the pigmentation and thus the youthfulness of the hair through suitable formulations of active ingredients is a challenge for cosmetic research.

The active ingredient EUK-134 (chloro [[2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis [(nitrilo-κN) methylidyne]] to [6-methoxyphenolato-κO]]] - manganese, ethylbisiminoethylguajacol-manganese chloride, ethylbisiminoethylguaiacol-manganese Complex, 2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis (nitrilomethylidyne) bis [6-methoxy] phenol manganese complex) shows an anti-oxidative effect.

The active substance EUK-118 ((acetato-κO) [[2,2 '- [1,2-ethanediylbis [(nitrilo-κN) -methylidyne] bis [3,5-dimethoxyphenolato-κO]] (2-)] manganese) is structurally analogous to EUK 134 and also has anti-oxidative properties.

The WO 2003/103616 describes the use of an active agent that mimics the activity of DOPAChrom tautomerase to protect the melanocytes of the hair follicle from cytotoxic agents, particularly those associated with oxidative stress (including TNF alpha, TGF beta, IL1 beta, etc.). In addition to many other active substances is called anti-oxidative mimic EUK-8.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide active substances or active substance combinations and compositions containing them, which are suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle, without the described disadvantages of the methods known in the prior art to influence the hair color or degree of hair graying and youthful appearance of the hair. Furthermore, there is a need for such agents which, in addition to influencing the natural pigmentation process, improve the skin and / or hair in appearance and / or structure.

The object is achieved by the provision of cosmetic compositions containing a. EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and b. at least one care substance.

Preferably, the cosmetic contains EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and at least one care substance in a physiologically acceptable carrier.

Furthermore, the object is achieved by the use of EUK-134 or the agents according to the invention for influencing the natural pigmentation process of the skin and / or skin appendages.

With particular preference, EUK-134, without EUK-118, is used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention or in the uses according to the invention.

In addition to influencing the natural pigmentation, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention show improved care effects on the skin and on the hair.

Especially on keratinic fibers, the positive effects are clearly pronounced, so that preferred inventive cosmetic agents, especially hair treatment agents. Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions , Mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they are formulated as shampoo, hair tonics, hair conditioner, hair conditioner, hair foam, hair setting agent, hair spray, hair gel and / or hair dyeing agent. In view of the fact that the consumer often shies away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps for reasons of time and convenience, these means are particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic contains EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 in a total amount of 0.000001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-2 wt .-%, exceptionally preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

As a care substance in the context of the present invention are in particular those active ingredients to understand that have a nourishing effect on the skin and / or hair. Suitable care substances are, for example, conditioning agents, in particular skin and / or hair conditioners, preferably moisturizers, emollients, moisturizers, cell-activating and / or protective substances.

Particularly suitable care substances are selected from the group of polymers (preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers), plant extracts, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, carbohydrates, quinones, in particular biochinones, preferably ubiquinones, bisabolol and / or bisaboloxides, taurine, silicones, furanones, herbal Oils, urea and urea derivatives, natural betaines, creatine, ectoine, α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form, fatty acid triglycerides, flavonoids and / or isoflavonoids.

Preferred conditioners are selected from the group monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, taurine, carnitine, carnitine derivatives, creatine, ectoine, panthenol and pantolactone. Particularly preferred care substances are selected from panthenol, pantolactone and / or carnitine or carnitine derivatives.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent contains the at least one conditioning agent in a total amount of 0.000001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-2 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. If more than one of the above care products is combined, the stated quantities apply to the total amount of these care substances.

According to a preferred embodiment, the care substance contained according to the invention is preferably at least one hair conditioning agent selected from cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones and / or vegetable oils.

Another very particularly preferred group of care agents of the compositions according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below: The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others, vitamin B ₁ (thiamine), vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin), vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent. Also included is vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Furthermore, vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal) can be used. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors contain, preferably the groups A, B, Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin B ₅ ) and / or pantothenic acid (C, E, F and H) are preferred. Vitamin B ₃ , vitamin B ₅ ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B ₁ ) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B ₂ , Vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B ₇ , vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B ₉ , vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin B ₆ and / or vitamin B ₁₂ .

in welchen die Reste R¹ bis R¹⁰ unabhängig voneinander stehen für:

• – Wasserstoff, -OH, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl- oder Hydroxymethylrest,
• – -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -NR¹²R¹³, wobei R¹² und R¹³ jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -CONR¹⁵R¹⁶, wobei R¹⁵ und R¹⁶ jeweils stehen für Wasserstoff, Methyl einen -C₂–C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest, – eine Gruppe -COR¹⁶, wobei R¹⁶ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂–C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,

mit der Maßgabe, daß für den Fall, wenn R⁷ und R⁸ für -OH und gleichzeitig R⁹ oder R¹⁰ für Wasserstoff stehen, die verbleibende Gruppe R⁹ oder R¹⁰ nicht für einen Dihydroxyethylrest steht.Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur-I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

in which the radicals R ¹ to R ¹⁰ are independently:

• Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,
• -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
• - saturated C ₂ -C ₄ mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• - saturated C ₂ -C ₄ mono- or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino hydrocarbon,
• A group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• A group -CONR ¹⁵ R ¹⁶ , where R ¹⁵ and R ^{16 are} each hydrogen, methyl is a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbyl radical, - a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or on or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical,

with the proviso that when R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{10 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ¹⁰ does not represent a dihydroxyethyl radical.

The compounds of the formulas (Fur-I) and (Fur-II) are used as intermediates in the synthesis of natural products and in the preparation of medicaments and vitamins. The preparation of the active compounds according to the formulas (Fur-I) and (Fur-II) can be carried out, for example, by reacting primary alcohols with acrylic acids. Furthermore, compounds of the formula (Fur-I) are obtained by reactions starting from hydroxypivaldehyde. Also, carbonylations of alkynes lead to substituted 2-furanones of the formula (Fur-I) or (Fur-II). Finally, the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II) can be obtained by intramolecular esterification of the corresponding hydroxycarboxylic acids. For example, the following compounds are obtained in one of the previously identified synthetic routes: 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone, tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone, or 3,4-dimethyl-5-pentylidenedihydro-2 (5H) -furanone or 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone. Of course, the 2-furanones according to the invention include all possible stereoisomers as well as their mixtures. By the 2-furanones according to the invention, the odor of the cosmetic agent is not permanently affected, so that a perfuming of the agent must be done separately.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -NR¹²R¹³, wobei R¹² und R¹³ jeweils unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COR¹⁶, wobei R¹⁶ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxyalkylrest, oder einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

Preferred compounds of the formula (fur-I) and / or of the formula (fur-II) may be compounds in which the substituents R ¹ , R ² and R ⁷ independently of one another represent:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• A group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -NR ¹² R ¹³ , wherein R ¹² and R ¹³ each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , wherein R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or - or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or on or di-unsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or on or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxyalkyl radical, or a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest oder
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

In a further embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it has been found that in the case of the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) or of the formula (Fur-II), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{8 are} preferably, independently of one another,

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical or
• - a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest oder
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Triaminokohlenwasserstoffrest.

Furthermore, it may be preferred for the radicals R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁹ and R ¹⁰ in the active substance according to the formula (I) and / or formula (II) according to the invention independently of one another to be:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical or
• - a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COR¹⁶, wobei R¹⁶ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, a compound of the formula (Fur-I) is used. It may be preferred that in a compound of the formula (fur-I), the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently of one another:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ¹⁶ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or on or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -OCOR ¹⁷ , wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ -saturated or on or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

• – Wasserstoff, einen -OH-, einen Methyl-, Methoxy-, Aminomethyl-, Hydroxymethylrest,
• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -COOR¹⁴, wobei R¹⁴ steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OCOR¹⁷, wobei R¹⁷ steht für einen Methyl-, einen -C₂-C₃₀-gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen -C₂-C₃₀ – gesättigten oder ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di-, Tri- und/oder Polyhydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

Furthermore, in this particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention, it may be advantageous if in the compounds of the formula (Fur-I) the radicals R ³ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent:

• Hydrogen, an -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl, hydroxymethyl radical,
• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• A group -COOR ¹⁴ , where R ¹⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,
• - a group -OCOR ^17, wherein R ¹⁷ is a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₃₀ saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated branched, or linear hydrocarbon group, a -C ₂ -C ₃₀ - saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- and / or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical.

• – einen -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest,
• – eine Gruppe -OR¹¹, mit R¹¹ als einem -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Kohlenwasserstoffrest, -C₂-C₄-gesättigten oder ein- oder zweifach ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Mono-, Di- oder Trihydroxykohlenwasserstoffrest.

In this preferred embodiment, it may furthermore be advantageous for the compounds of the formula (Fur I) for the radicals R 5 and R 6 to stand independently for:

• A C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical,
• A group -OR ¹¹ , with R ¹¹ as a -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear Mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbon radical.

• – (R)-(–)-4-Hydroxymethyl-ϒ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – D,L-4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – (S)-(+)-4-Hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – R-(–)-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – D,L-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – S(+)-2-Hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolacton und/oder
• – 4-Hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3(2H)-furanon und/oder
• – Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure und/oder
• – Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, Na-Salz und/oder
• – Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, K-Salz und/oder
• – 2,5-Dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanon und/oder
• – Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon

eingesetzt. In einer ganz besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der erfindungsgemäßen Lehre wird als Verbindung entsprechend der Formel (Fur-I) Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2(3H)-furanon eingesetzt.In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as the compound according to the formula (Fur-I)

• - (R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-Υ-butyrolactone and / or
• - D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - (S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - D, L-2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• - S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or
• 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or
• - Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure and / or
• - Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure, Na salt and / or
• Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, K salt and / or
• 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or
• Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone

used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound corresponding to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone.

Particularly preferred are the combination means or the use of 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt .-% panthenol, 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-118 with 0 , 000001-10% by weight of panthenol, 0.000001-10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol.

Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt .-% pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt.% EUK-118 with 0.000001-10 wt.% Pantolactone, 0.000001-10 wt.% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10 wt. -% pantolactone.

Likewise preferred are the following combinations in the agents according to the invention or the use of:
0.000001-10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt% (panthenol and pantolactone);
0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118 with 0.000001-10 wt% (panthenol and pantolactone);
0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10 wt% (panthenol and pantolactone).

The o. A. Weight data are in each case based on the total weight of the composition. In the case of two components of the same group, the quantities given represent the total amount of both components.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one natural betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. , in each case based on the total composition.

A particularly preferred care substance selected from natural betaines is carnitine (3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonium) -butyric acid betaine, [(R) -3-carboxy-2-hydroxypropyl] -trimethylammonium betaine), more preferably L-carnitine.

Furthermore, carnitine derivatives can also be used. Preferred carnitine derivatives are in particular selected from carnitine tartrate, acetyl carnitine, carnitine fumarate, carnitine citrate, lauroyl carnitine and particularly preferably carnitine tartrate. Particularly preferred are the L-carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and particularly preferably L-carnitine tartrate. The L-carnitine compounds mentioned are available, for example, from Lonza GmbH (Wuppertal, Germany).

According to a further preferred embodiment, carnitine and / or the carnitine derivative is added to the cosmetic agent in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.0001-2% by weight. %, most preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition used.

Particularly preferred are the combination means or the use of 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt .-% carnitine tartrate, 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-118 with 0 , 000001-10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10 wt% panthenol.

Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt .-% carnitine; 0.000001-10 wt.% EUK-118 with 0.000001-10 wt.% Carnitine, 0.000001-10 wt.% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10 wt. -% carnitine.

Likewise preferred are the following combinations in the agents according to the invention or the use of:
0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine and with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% carnitine and with 0.000001-10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight carnitine and with 0.000001-10% by weight pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine; with 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% carnitine and with 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone; 0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine tartrate and with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% carnitine tartrate, and 0.000001-10 wt% panthenol. 0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine tartrate and with 0.000001-10% by weight of pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10% by weight of carnitine tartrate; with 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone; 0.000001-10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10% by weight carnitine tartrate and with 0.000001-10% by weight pantolactone;

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ectoine. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferred in amounts of from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.00001 to% by weight, preferably 0.0001 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and exceptionally preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred combinations which are used according to the invention or used in the agents according to the invention are:
0.000001-10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt% ectoine; 0.000001-10 wt.% EUK-118 with 0.000001-10 wt.% Ectoine, 0.000001-10 wt.% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10 wt. -% Ectoin.

Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight ectoine and with 0.000001-10% by weight panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10% by weight ectoine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% ectoine and with 0.000001-10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight ectoine and with 0.000001-10% by weight pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10% by weight ectoine; with 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% ectoine and with 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone;

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

Particularly preferred combinations which are used according to the invention or used in the agents according to the invention are:
0.000001-10 wt% EUK-134 with 0.000001-10 wt% creatine; 0.000001-10 wt.% EUK-118 with 0.000001-10 wt.% Creatine, 0.000001-10 wt.% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) with 0.000001-10 wt. -% Creatine.

Further particularly preferred combinations are agents or the use of 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134; 0.000001-10% by weight creatine and with 0.000001-10% by weight panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10 wt% creatine; with 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% creatine and 0.000001-10 wt% panthenol; 0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; 0.000001-10 wt% creatine and 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% EUK-118; 0.000001-10 wt% creatine; with 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone; 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10 wt% creatine and 0.000001-10 wt% pantolactone;

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁–R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve skin moisture while omitting comedogenic substances.

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one alkyl or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight. %, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, more preferably 1-10 wt .-% and most preferably 2-5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, included. N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, is available, for example, as a Hydrovance commercial product from National Starch and Chemical Company as an approximately 45-55% aqueous solution containing urea and ammonium lactate.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain as a care substance at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An inventively particularly preferred olive leaf extract is available under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from the company Vincience. Another invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 1 to 2% by weight. %, in each case based on the extract as a commercial product tel quel in the entire composition according to the invention.

Olive leaf extracts may have a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight .-%, in each case based on the total composition of the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain ursolic acid as a care substance. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise ursolic acid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight, in each case to the entire composition of the invention.

• – Monosachhariden, (insbesondere D-Ribose und/oder D-Xylose und/oder L-Arabinose und/oder D-Glucose und/oder D-Mannose und/oder D-Galactose und/oder D-Fructose und/oder Sorbose und/oder L-Fucose und/oder L-Rhamnose)
• – Disacchariden, (insbesondere Saccharose und/oder Maltose und/oder Lactose und/oder Trehalose und/oder Cellobiose und/oder Gentiobiose und/oder Isomaltose).

As a further preferred care substance, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate, preferably selected from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they have a care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides, wherein preferred carbohydrates are selected from

• Monosaccharides, (in particular D-ribose and / or D-xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose)
• - Disaccharides, (in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose).

• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118) und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118) und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118) und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight

• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• - 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1.5 wt .-% fructose.
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• - 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-118 and 0.75 to 1.5 wt .-% fructose.
• 0.000001-10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.75-1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• - 0.000001-10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.75-1.5 wt% fructose.

• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118), 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118) und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118) und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight

• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of fructose.
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and EUK-118, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,
• - 0.000001-10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,
• 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.75-1.5 wt% fructose.

enthalten in der
X, Y, Z stehen unabhängig voneinander für -O- oder -NH- oder NR⁴- oder eine chemische Bindung
R¹, R², R³ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte Arylgruppe oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte (C₁-C₆)-Alkylgruppe oder eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe oder eine Polyhydroxyalkylgruppe oder eine gegebenenfalls substituierte (C₁-C₆)-Alkylengruppe, oder einen (C₁-C₆)-Acylrest, wobei bevorzugte Reste unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -(CH₂)₂CH₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -(CH₂)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -C(CH₃)₃
R⁴ steht für -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -(CH₂)₂CH₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -(CH₂)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -C(CH₃)₃
n steht für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.It has been found that the use of certain quinones enhances anti-dandruff and anti-hair loss effects as well as combability and gloss benefits. As a further constituent, the compositions according to the invention can therefore contain from 0.0001 to 5% by weight of at least one biochinone of the formula (Ubi)

contained in the
X, Y, Z are independently -O- or -NH- or NR ⁴ - or a chemical bond
R ¹ , R ² , R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group or a polyhydroxyalkyl group or an optionally substituted (C ₁ -C ₆ ) - Alkylene group, or a (C ₁ -C ₆ ) -acyl radical, preferred radicals being selected independently of one another from -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃
R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃
n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

in denen
R¹, R², R³ stehen jeweils unabhängig voneinander für -H, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -(CH₂)₂CH₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -(CH₂)₃CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH(OH₃)₂, -C(CH₃)₃
R⁴ steht für -CH₃, oder -CH₂CH₃, oder -(CH₂)₂CH₂, oder -CH(CH₃)₂
n steht für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.Preferred compounds of the formula (Ubi) according to the invention are, for example

in which
R ¹ , R ² , R ³ are each independently -H, -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (OH ₃ ) ₂ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃
R ⁴ is -CH ₃ , or -CH ₂ CH ₃ , or - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₂ , or -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂
n stands for values from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.

in der n für die Werte = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10, besonders bevorzugt für 10 (Coenzym Q10) steht.Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0, 1% by weight of at least one ubiquinone and / or at least one ubiquinol and / or at least one derivative of these substances, with preferred agents containing a ubiquinone of the formula (Ubi)

in which n stands for the values = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, particularly preferably 10 (coenzyme Q10).

• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-% CoenzymQ10;
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-% CoenzymQ10;
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118) und 0,0001 bis 1 Gew.-% CoenzymQ10.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight

• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.0001% to 1% by weight of coenzyme Q10;
• - 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.0001 to 1% by weight of coenzyme Q10;
• 0.000001-10 wt% (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.0001 to 1 wt% coenzyme Q10.

• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und CoenzymQ10;
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118, 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und CoenzymQ10;
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% (EUK-134 und EUK-118), 0,000001–10 Gew.-% Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton und CoenzymQ10;

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention or compositions to be used according to the invention contain based on their weight

• - 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and coenzyme Q10;
• - 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118, 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and coenzyme Q10;
• - 0.000001-10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118), 0.000001-10% by weight of panthenol and / or pantolactone and coenzyme Q10;

in der n für Werte von 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise von 2 bis 15 und insbesondere für 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 steht, wobei besonders bevorzugt Mittel Plastochinon PQ-9 der Formel

enthalten.As an alternative to the particularly preferred ubiquinones or in addition to them, the agents according to the invention may also contain plastoquinones. Here, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they are 0.0002 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2 wt .-%, more preferably 0.0015 to 1 and in particular 0.002 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one plastoquinone of the formula (Ubi-Ib)

in which n stands for values of 1 to 20, preferably of 2 to 15 and in particular for 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, whereby particularly preferred means Plastochinon PQ-9 of the formula

contain.

The agents according to the invention may preferably also contain plant extracts (L) as care substance (s).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts which are described on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, issued by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, starting table are listed.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the use according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention or the compositions used according to the invention comprise at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract.

The flavonoids preferred according to the invention include the glycosides of the flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4 '-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, hesperetin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3', 4 ', 5,7-pentahydroxy-flavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3, 5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), monoxerutin ( 3,3 ', 4,5-tetrahydroxy 7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside), diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5 -methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extremely preferred flavonoids according to the invention are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the constructed from two flavonoid biflavonoids, z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one flavonoid in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the flavonoid active substance in the entire cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention or the compositions used according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids.

For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position may be present, and by substitution of the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

It is furthermore preferred according to the invention if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides are contained in the preparations as constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a plant extract. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be obtained in a manner familiar to the person skilled in the art, for example by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soya, red clover or chickpeas. Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of extracts obtained from soybean are particularly preferably used in the preparations according to the invention, as described, for example, under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) are commercially available. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline from Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one isoflavonoid in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight. %, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition.

The combinations are particularly preferably from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids Soy and 0.000001-10% by weight EUK-134; From 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and from 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-118; from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118);

Also preferred are combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% of isoflavonoids from soybean, 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.000001-10 wt .-% panthenol; 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol; from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy, 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of panthenol;

Also preferred are combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% of isoflavonoids from soy, 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.000001-10 wt .-% pantolactone; From 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone; from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy, 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of pantolactone;

Also preferred are combinations of 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% isoflavonoids as soybean, 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.000001-10 wt .-% (panthenol and pantolactone); 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy and 0.000001 to 10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.000001 to 10% by weight (panthenol and pantolactone); from 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight of isoflavonoids from soy, 0.000001 to 10% by weight (EUK-134 and EUK-118) and 0.000001 to 10% by weight (panthenol and pantolactone);

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0, 01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

As a further essential ingredient, the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention contains as care substance at least one fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture, preferably with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids.

According to the invention, a fatty acid triglyceride is a triester of glycerol with three different or identical fatty acids. The fatty acid according to the invention is an aliphatic carboxylic acid having a long, almost exclusively unbranched carbon chain and a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids of the fatty acid triglycerides may carry saturated or unsaturated carbon chains, wherein at least 80 wt .-% of the fatty acids contained in the triglyceride must be at least monounsaturated and therefore must have at least one C-C double bond.

Unsaturated fatty acids can have a double bond in their carbon chain both in the (E) and in the (Z) configuration, with multiple double bonds in the fatty acid, with both fatty acids having double bonds exclusively in (Z) configuration, exclusively in (E) configuration or can also be used in mixed configuration. However, unsaturated fatty acids with all (Z) configuration are preferred.

Preferred unsaturated fatty acids according to the invention are palmitoleic acid (C16: 19Z), oleic acid (C18: 1 9Z), elaidic acid (C18: 1 9E), eicosenoic acid (gondoic acid, C20: 11Z), erucic acid (C22: 1 13Z), nervonic acid (C24: 1 15Z), linoleic acid (C18: 2 9Z12Z), γ- (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 6Z9Z12Z), α- (alpha) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 9Z12Z15Z), α-elaeostearic acid (C18: 3 9Z, 11E , 13E) and arachidonic acid (C20: 4 5Z8Z11Z14Z).

The fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention can, however, also contain proportionally esters of saturated fatty acids with glycerol in addition to esters with unsaturated fatty acids. According to the invention, the composition preferably comprises mixtures of fatty acid triglycerides, wherein glycerol is esterified with different unsaturated and saturated fatty acids, as long as it is ensured that the molar fraction of unsaturated fatty acids at least 80 wt .-%, preferably at least 85 wt .-% and particularly preferably at least 88% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture.

Fatty acid triglycerides which can preferably be used according to the invention are a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides, which is distinguished by the fact that the proportion of γ- (gamma) -linolenic acid (C18: 3 c6c9c12; also (all-Z) -6,9,12-octatrienoic acid) the fatty acids at least 15 wt .-%, preferably at least 18 wt .-% and in particular at least 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or Fettsäuretriglyceridgemischs.

Compositions according to the invention contain as fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixture with a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids. A measure of the unsaturation of a compound or of a mixture of compounds is the so-called iodine number. This makes it possible, in particular for mixtures, to determine the proportion of C-C double bonds, where a high number stands for a high proportion of double bonds. The person skilled in the determination of the iodine number is well known, it can for example be determined by the method DGF C-V-11b.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which have an iodine value of at least 125, preferably of at least 130 and in particular of 130 to 150.

Particular preference is given to fatty acid triglyceride mixtures which have a proportion of γ-linolenic acid of at least 15% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride mixture, and an iodine value of at least 125.

Suitable fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid triglyceride mixtures according to the invention are, in particular, natural oils which have the abovementioned features, which are preferably of vegetable origin.

An embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture in the form of a natural, vegetable oil is used in the composition according to the invention.

According to the invention, the vegetable oil has been found to be particularly suitable from the seeds of European woody plants, in particular from Borago officinalis L. (borage). Borage oil is obtained either by mechanical pressing from the seeds of Borago officinalis L. and subsequent refining as a fatty oil or by extraction and subsequent refining, preference being given to oil obtained by pressing, in particular by cold pressing.

A further embodiment of the first subject of the invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture the oil from seeds of Borago officinalis L. (borage).

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent comprises the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture with a proportion of unsaturated fatty acids of at least 80% by weight, based on the total weight of all fatty acids of the fatty acid triglyceride or fatty acid triglyceride mixture, in a proportion of 0.01 to 10% by weight. -%, preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent contains.

The agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

The agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of use, and selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Acylglutamate der Formel (I),
  
  in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0, 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht, beispielsweise Acylglutamate, die sich von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten, wie beispielsweise C_12/14- bzw. C_12/18-Kokosfettsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure und/oder Stearinsäure, insbesondere Natrium-N-cocoyl- und Natrium-N-stearoyl-L-glutamat,
• – Ester einer hydroxysubstituierten Di- oder Tricarbonsäure der allgemeinen Formel (II),
  
  in der X = H oder eine -CH₂COOR-Gruppe ist, Y = H oder -OH ist unter der Bedingung, dass Y = H ist, wenn X = -CH₂COOR ist, R, R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetallkation, eine Ammoniumgruppe, das Kation einer ammoniumorganischen Base oder einen Rest Z bedeuten, der von einer polyhydroxylierten organischen Verbindung stammt, die aus der Gruppe der veretherten (C₆-C₁₈)-Alkylpolysaccharide mit 1 bis 6 monomeren Saccharideinheiten und/oder der veretherten aliphatischen (C₆-C₁₆)-Hydroxyalkylpolyole mit 2 bis 16 Hydroxylresten ausgewählt sind, unter der Maßgabe dass wenigstens eine der Gruppen R, R¹ oder R² ein Rest Z ist,
• – Ester der Sulfobernsteinsäure oder der Sulfosuccinate der allgemeinen Formel (III),
  
  in der M^(n+/n) für n = 1 ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallkation, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder das Kation einer ammonium-organischen Base und für n = 2 ein Erdalkalimetallkation darstellt und R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetallkation, eine Ammoniumgruppe, das Kation einer ammonium-organischen Base oder einen Rest Z bedeuten, der von einer polyhydroxylierten organischen Verbindung stammt, die aus der Gruppe der veretherten (C₆-C₁₈)-Alkylpolysaccharide mit 1 bis 6 monomeren Saccharideinheiten und/oder der veretherten aliphatischen (C₆-C₁₆)-Hydroxyalkylpolyole mit 2 bis 16 Hydroxylresten ausgewählt ist, unter der Maßgabe, dass wenigstens eine der Gruppen R¹ oder R² ein Rest Z ist,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglycolethersulfate der Formel R-(O-CH₂-CH₂)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1–12 ist,
• – gemischte oberflächenaktive Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030 ,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an C_8-22-Fettalkohole darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglycolester,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate.

Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Acylglutamates of the formula (I),
  
  in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate,
• Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (II),
  
  wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols with from 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,
• Esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (III),
  
  in which M ^{(n + / n)} for n = 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base and for n = 2 an alkaline earth metal cation and R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1-12,
• Mixed hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030 .
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C _8-22 fatty alcohols,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates,
• - sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäure(partial)ester, wie Hydagen^®HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis), insbesondere von gesättigten C_8-30-Fettsäuren,
• – alkoxylierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxylierte Fettsäurealkylester,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide, Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide und Fettamine sowie deren Ethylenoxid- oder Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester sowie deren Ethylenoxid- oder Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte,
• – Alkylpolyglycoside entsprechend der allgemeinen Formel RO-(Z)_x wobei R für Alkyl, Z für Zucker sowie x für die Anzahl der Zuckereinheiten steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Alkylpolyglycoside, bei denen R
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen

besteht.Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol fatty (partial) ester as Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis), especially of saturated C _8-30 fatty acids,
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,
• - amine oxides,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides and fatty amines and their ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and methyl glucoside fatty acid esters and their ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,
• - Alkylpolyglycoside according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x wherein R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R
• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Substituted from C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups

consists.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen, z. B. Montanov^®68,
• – Sterine, z. B. Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin und Mykosterine,
• – Phospholipide, z. B. Lecithine bzw. Phosphatidylcholine,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Dehymuls^®PGPH) oder Triglycerindiisostearat (Lameform^®TGI),
• – alkoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane (INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone Copolyol).

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

• - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. B. Montanov ^® 68,
• - sterols, e.g. Ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol and mycosterols,
• - Phospholipids, z. B. lecithins or phosphatidylcholines,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH) or Triglycerindiisostearat (Lameform ^® TGI),
• - alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol).

The preferred nonionic surface-active substances have been the alkylpolyglycosides, optionally mixed with fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines type. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Very particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention which additionally contain fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C _12-22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C _12-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) with 10 to 30 EO units , particularly preferably C _16-18 fatty alcohols) and / or C _16-18 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 17, 5 wt .-% and in particular from 10 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic ( s) surfactant (s), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _n - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _k -OSO ₃ ^- M ⁺ in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, more preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 11 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 , 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation from the group Na ⁺ , K ⁺ NH ₄ ⁺ , ½Mg ²⁺ , ½Zn ²⁺ , preferably Na ⁺ .

• – N-Alkylglycine,
• – N-Alkylpropionsäuren,
• – N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren,
• – N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren,
• – N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine,
• – N-Alkyltaurine,
• – N-Alkylsarcosine,
• – 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat,
• – Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat
• – C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylsarcosin,
• – N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat,
• – N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat,
• – 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe
• – Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat
• – der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betain bekannten Verbindungen,
• – der unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate bekannten Verbindungen,

enthalten, wobei bevorzugte Mittel das bzw. die amphotere(n) Tensid(e) in Mengen von 1 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 2,5 bis 12 Gew.-% und insbesondere von 5 bis 10 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are further characterized in that they additionally contain amphoteric surfactant (s), preferably from the groups of

• - N-alkylglycines,
• N-alkylpropionic acids,
• N-alkylaminobutyric acids,
• N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,
• N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines,
• N-alkyl taurines,
• N-alkyl sarcosines,
• 2-alkylaminopropionic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• Alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,
• - cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate
• C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine,
• N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate,
• N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate,
• - 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group
• Cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate
• The compounds known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine,
• The compounds known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate,

preferred agents containing the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of 1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 12 wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 10 wt .-%, in each case based on the total agent included.

in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht Diese Tenside werden nach der INCI-Nomenklatur als Amidopropylbetaine bezeichnet, wobei die Vertreter, die sich von Kokosfettsäuren ableiten, bevorzugt sind und als Cocoamidopropylbetaine bezeichnet werden. Besonders bevorzugt werden erfindungsgemäß Tenside der Formel (I) eingesetzt, die ein Gemisch der folgenden Vertreter sind: H₃C-(CH₂)₇-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)₃N⁺(CH₃)₂CH₂COO^– H₃C-(CH₂)₉-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)₃N⁺(CH₃)₂CH₂COO^– H₃C-(CH₂)₁₁-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)₃N⁺(CH₃)₂CH₂COO^– H₃C-(CH₂)₁₃-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)₃N⁺(CH₃)₂CH₂COO^– H₃C-(CH₂)₁₅-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)₃N⁺(CH₃)₂CH₂COO^– H₃C-(CH₂)₇-CH=CH-(CH₂)₇-C(O)-NH-(CH₂)₃N⁺(CH₃)₂CH₂COO^– Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, contain as amphoteric surfactants betaines of the formula (I)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms. These surfactants are designated according to the INCI nomenclature as Amidopropylbetaine, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids, preferred and are referred to as Cocoamidopropylbetaine. According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (I) which are a mixture of the following representatives: H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- ( CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (I) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (I).

enthalten, in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht.In addition to the amphoteric surfactant (s) of the formula (I) or in its place, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, with particular preference as amphoteric surfactants, can be betaines of the formula (II)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as amphoacetates, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as cocoamphoactetates.

in der R für einen geradkettigen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ein- bzw. mehrfach ungesättigten Alkyl- oder Alkenlyrest mit 8 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen und M für ein Kation steht.For reasons of production technology, surfactants of this type always also contain betaines of the formula (IIa)

in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and M is a cation.

These surfactants are referred to according to the INCI nomenclature as Amphodiacetate, wherein the representatives derived from coconut fatty acids are preferred and are referred to as Cocoamphodiactetate.

According to the invention, particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) which are a mixture of the following representatives:
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -C (O) -N- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-
H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -C (O) -NH- (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ⁺ (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^-

Particular preference is given to using surfactants of the formula (II) within narrower ranges of amounts. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.25 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.75 to 6.5% by weight and in particular 1 to 5.5 wt .-% of surfactant (s) of the formula (VII).

• – H₃C-(CH₂)₇-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₉-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₁₁
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₁₃-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₁₅-
• – H₃C-(CH₂)₇-CH=CH-(CH₂)₇-

oder Mischungen aus diesen.In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are preferred in which the radical R in the formulas (I) and (II) is selected from

• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -
• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₉ -
• - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₁
• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₃ -
• - H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₁₅ -
• H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -CH = CH- (CH ₂ ) ₇ -

or mixtures of these.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides. Accordingly, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment agents, which are preferred as nonionic surfactants Alkylpolyglycoside of the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

Alkylpolyglycosides (APG) are non-ionic surfactants which are produced entirely from renewable raw materials (sugar components, predominantly glucose, for example from corn starch and fatty alcohol, for example from coconut oil). Alkyl polyglycosides are accessible by acid-catalyzed reaction (Fischer reaction) of sugars, especially glucose (or starch) or butyl glycosides with fatty alcohols.

Complex mixtures of alkyl monoglucoside (alkyl-α-D- and -β-D-glucopyranoside and small amounts of glucofuranoside), alkyldiglucosides (-isomaltosides, maltosides, etc.) and alkyl oligoglucosides (maltotriosides, tetraosides, etc.) are formed. The average degree of polymerization of commercial products whose alkyl radicals are in the range C8-C16 is 1.2-1.5.

• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- und C₁₀-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- und C₁₄-Alkylgruppen,
• – im wesentlichen aus C₈- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₂- bis C₁₆-Alkylgruppen oder
• – im wesentlichen aus C₁₆ bis C₁₈-Alkylgruppen besteht.

Alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO (Z) _x are preferably used according to the invention, where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• Consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• Essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

In addition to the surfactants mentioned, the agents according to the invention may also contain anionic, cationic and optionally also further amphoteric or zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^®KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• - alkyl sulfates,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• - monoglyceride sulphates,
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines can be used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are Ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

• – Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloriden mit vorzugsweise 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und/oder
• – Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride mit vorzugsweise 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und/oder
• – Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride mit vorzugsweise 10 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und/oder
• – Cetyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und/oder
• – Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und/oder
• – Distearyldimethylammoniumchlorid und/oder
• – Lauryldimethylammoniumchlorid und/oder
• – Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid und/oder
• – Tricetylmethylammoniumchlorid
• – Quaternium-27 und/oder
• – Quaternium-83 und/oder
• – N-Methyl-N(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-(ditalgacyloxyethyl)ammonium-methosulfat und/oder
• – N-Methyl-N(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-(distearoyloxyethyl)ammonium-methosulfat und/oder
• – N,N-Dimethyl-N,N-distearoyloxyethyl-ammoniumchlorid und/oder
• – N,N-Di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-(fettsäureesterethyl)-ammoniumchlorid.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain as cationic care substance - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, From 2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic surfactant (s) from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds and / or esterquats and / or amidoamines, with preferred cationic surfactant (s) is / are selected

• - Alkyltrimethylammoniumchloriden having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
• - Dialkyldimethylammoniumchloride having preferably 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
• - Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride preferably having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and / or
• Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or
• Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and / or
• Distearyldimethylammonium chloride and / or
• - Lauryldimethylammonium chloride and / or
• - Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and / or
• - tricetylmethylammonium chloride
• - Quaternium-27 and / or
• - Quaternium-83 and / or
• - N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (ditalgacyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or
• - N-methyl-N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (distearoyloxyethyl) ammonium methosulfate and / or
• - N, N-dimethyl-N, N-distearoyloxyethyl ammonium chloride and / or
• - N, N-di (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N- (fatty acid ethyl) ammonium chloride.

As a further care substance, the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.

Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

in der R¹ = -H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Cationic polymers which can preferably be used according to the invention are described below: homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹ is a methyl group
• - R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol (with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and Tridecylpolyoxypropylen polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name : PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) as the non-ionic monomer, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C _1-4 alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^®H 100, Celquat^®L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686 ,
• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^®50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^®FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with diethyl sulfate Copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Cationic protein hydrolysates may also be used as cationic polymers, preferred agents being one or more cationic protein hydrolysates from the group Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimon Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrol yzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

• – Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) und/oder;
• – quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivaten (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) und/oder
• – kationischen Alkylpolyglycosiden und/oder
• – kationisiertem Honig und/oder
• – kationischen Guar-Derivaten und/oder
• – polymeren Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalzen und deren Copolymeren mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure und/oder
• – Copolymeren des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats und/oder
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymeren und/oder
• – quaterniertem Polyvinylalkohol und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 2 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium-7 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 17 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 18 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 24 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 27.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt and more preferably from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), with preferred cationic polymer (s) being selected

• Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or;
• - quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or
• Cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or
• - cationised honey and / or
• Cationic guar derivatives and / or
• Polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or
• Quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or
• Polyquaternium 2 and / or
• Polyquaternium-7 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 17 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 18 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 24 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 27.

• A) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Z-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵A^(–) (Z-I) In der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• B) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Z-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (Z-II) in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

In addition to the cationic polymers or in their place, the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers. In the context of the present invention preferably usable amphoteric polymers are composed essentially together

• A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (ZI), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (ZI) In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, such monomers of formula (ZI), which are derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Also preferred are those monomers of the formula (ZI) in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a most preferred monomer of formula (Z-I).

Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (Z-I) and (Z-II) by polymerization processes known per se. The polymerization can be carried out either in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution. The alcohols used are alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably isopropanol, which simultaneously serve as polymerization regulators. However, other components than regulators may also be added to the monomer solution, eg. For example, formic acid or mercaptans, such as thioethanol and thioglycolic acid. The initiation of the polymerization takes place with the aid of free-radical-forming substances. For this purpose, redox systems and / or thermally decomposing radical formers of the azo compound type, such. As azoisobutyronitrile, azo-bis (cyanopentanoic acid) or azo-bis (amidinopropane) dihydrochloride can be used. As redox systems are z. B. combinations of hydrogen peroxide, potassium or ammonium peroxodisulfate and tertiary butyl hydroperoxide with sodium sulfite, sodium dithionite or hydroxylamine hydrochloride as a reduction component.

The polymerization can be carried out isothermally or under adiabatic conditions, depending on the concentration ratios by the heat of polymerization released, the temperature range for the course of the reaction between 20 and 200 ° C may vary, and the reaction may be carried out under the autogenous pressure. Preferably, the reaction temperature is between 20 and 100 ° C.

The pH during the copolymerization may vary within a wide range. Advantageously, polymerization is carried out at low pH values; however, pH values above the neutral point are also possible. After the polymerization is treated with an aqueous base, for. As sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia, adjusted to a pH between 5 and 10, preferably 6 to 8. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the examples.

Be particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the formula (Z-I) were present in excess over the monomers of formula (Z-II). It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (ZI) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 , consist.

• A) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Z-I), R¹-CH=CR²CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵A^(–) (Z-I) in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(–) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist und
• B) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Z-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (Z-II) in der R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the amphoteric polymer (s) comprise monomers A) and B), wherein A) and B) are selected from

• A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (ZI), R ¹ -CH = CR ² CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (ZI) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and
• B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

With particular preference, the amphoteric polymers used in the agents according to the invention contain monomers from the group of the acrylamides and / or methacrylamides with alkylammonium groups. Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methyl-crotonic acid have proven useful as monomers with anionic groups which are additionally present in the polymers.

• – Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder,
• – Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid und/oder
• – Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid und/oder
• – Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid und/oder
• – Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder
• – Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat und/oder
• – Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat und/oder
• – Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder,
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat und/oder
• – Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit mindestens einem der Monomere
• – Acrylsäure und/oder
• – Methacrylsäure und/oder
• – Crotonsäure und/oder
• – 2-Methyl-crotonsäure

sind.In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amphoteric polymer (s) are co-polymers of at least one of the monomers

• Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or
• - Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid and / or
• - trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or
• - Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid and / or
• - Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid and / or
• - Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat and / or
• - Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat and / or
• - Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat and / or
• Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or
• - Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid and / or
• Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or
• Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide and / or
• - Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid and / or
• - Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat and / or
• - Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat and / or
• - Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat with at least one of the monomers
• - acrylic acid and / or
• - methacrylic acid and / or
• - Crotonic acid and / or
• - 2-methyl-crotonic acid

are.

• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Trimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Acrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Methacrylsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit Crotonsäure
• – Copolymere von Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylat mit 2-Methyl-crotonsäure

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are:

• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium propylmethacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid with 2-methyl crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of Ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamid with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of Ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamid with 2-methyl crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid
• - Copolymers of ethyldimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

According to a further, particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally contain polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids in addition to the at least one care substance.

In addition to the at least one care substance, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group of glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, series, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) , L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain, in addition to EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and at least one care substance, one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1 , 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or Lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine included.

As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention also contain (an) amino acid (s).

Amino acids which can be used particularly preferably according to the invention are selected from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid) , L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0 , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-134 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin.
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Glycin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Alanin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Glucosemonohydrat und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Saccharose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin,
• – 0,000001–10 Gew.-% EUK-118 und 0,75 bis 1,5 Gew.-% Fructose und 0,1 bis 0,25 Gew.-% Valin.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75-1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1-0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75-1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1-0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of valine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-134 and 0.75-1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1-0.25% by weight of valine,
• - 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-134 and 0.75 to 1.5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine.
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of glycine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75-1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1-0.25% by weight of alanine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75% to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of valine,
• 0.000001-10% by weight of EUK-118 and 0.75-1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1-0.25% by weight of valine,
• - 0.000001-10 wt .-% EUK-118 and 0.75 to 1.5 wt .-% fructose and 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% valine.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, further preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Preference is also given to the additional use of bisabolol and / or bisabolol oxides in the agents according to the invention. Here, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions are preferred which additionally 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1.5% by weight of bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, in addition to the care substances, further substances which prevent, alleviate or heal hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:
Propecia (Finasteride) is currently the only preparation that is approved worldwide and has been proven in many studies to be effective and tolerable. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.

Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal effects on hair follicles, spironolactone can be used in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented.

In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

Additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, piroctone oil amines or zinc pyrithione) are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.

In summary, agents according to the invention which additionally comprise, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone oleamines (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations. In many cases, the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. These surfactants have been described in detail above.

A preferred form of preparation of the cosmetic agent according to the invention, in particular hair treatment agent, takes place in the form of hair tonics or hair lotions. These preferably contain besides EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 and at least one conditioner at least one monohydric alcohol and optionally contain a gelling agent.

• (a) EuK-134 und/oder EUK-118,
• (b) einen Pflegestoff,
• (c) 0,1 bis 90 Gew.-% mindestens eines einwertigen Alkohols aus der Gruppe Ethanol, n-Propanol, Isoporopanol, n-Butanol,
• (d) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Gelbildners.

A further subject of the present invention is a cosmetic agent, in particular hair treatment agent containing

• (a) EuK-134 and / or EUK-118,
• (b) a care substance,
• (c) from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol,
• (D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

The compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol from the group of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol. Among these, ethanol and / or isopropanol are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 85% by weight, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, particularly preferably from 5 to 75% by weight preferably 10 to 70 wt .-% and in particular 25 to 60 wt .-% ethanol and / or isopropanol.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, contain exclusively ethanol. Here are cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, which - based on their weight - 5 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 70 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 20 to 55 Wt .-% and in particular 25 to 50 wt .-% ethanol, more preferably.

• (a) EuK-134 und/oder EUK-118,
• (b) Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton,
• (c) 0,1 bis 90 Gew.-% mindestens eines einwertigen Alkohols aus der Gruppe Ethanol, n-Propanol, Isoporopanol, n-Butanol, bevorzugt Ethanol oder Propanol,
• (d) 0 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens eines Gelbildners enthalten.

Very particularly preferred are cosmetic agents that

• (a) EuK-134 and / or EUK-118,
• (b) panthenol and / or pantolactone,
• (c) from 0.1 to 90% by weight of at least one monohydric alcohol selected from the group consisting of ethanol, n-propanol, isoporopanol, n-butanol, preferably ethanol or propanol,
• (D) 0 to 10 wt .-% of at least one gelling agent.

The agents according to the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent. Through the use of these gelling agents, the adhesion of the agents on the hair can be improved and the application can be made more pleasant. Here, agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment agents, which - based on their weight - 0.15 to 9 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7 wt .-%, further preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5% by weight of at least one gelling agent from the groups of silicic acids and / or layered silicates and / or organophosphorus silicates and / or metal soaps and / or hydrogenated castor oil and / or modified Fat derivatives and / or polyamides and / or hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) and / or carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) and / or hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC) and / or hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) and / or ethylhydroxyethylcellulose (EHEC) and / or polyvinyl alcohols and / or polyacrylic acid and / or polymethacrylic acids and their salts and / or polyacrylamides and / or polyvinylpyrrolidone and / or polyethylene glycols and / or styrene-maleic anhydride copolymers and their salts and / or copolymers and / or terpolymers of Acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or cellulose and / or starch and / or xanthan gum.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention, in particular also the hair lotions and / or hair tonics according to the invention, may contain emulsifiers (F).

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^®PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, further polymers are added to the compositions according to the invention, both anionic and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for all or some of the sulfonic acid group to be present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

Particularly preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic Copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^®VA 64 und Luviskol^®VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^®XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200°C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as such, under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan ^® OS, Uvinul ^® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ^®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl -1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo Helio ^pan® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate, and 2-cyano-3, 3-diphenylacrylate 2'-ethylhexyl acrylate. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2 Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1 -yl-methanesulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) - toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy- 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 '-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazo-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-ox Oborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Preference is given to those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to a further embodiment of the invention, preference is given to those UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. In principle, this group can be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is bound by a cationic group Q, in particular a quaternary amino function, is replaced. Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, the structural part U, also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.

The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283) and Dodecyldimethylaminobenzamidopropyl-tosylate (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and Urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1 , 2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageously in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may additionally support the active substance complex (A). Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids used according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids used according to the invention include, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl , Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

A particularly preferred group of care agents are the silicones.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen; b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen; c) Thiolgruppen; d) Carboxylatgruppen; e) hydroxylierten Gruppen; f) alkoxylierten Gruppen; g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen; h) amphoteren Gruppen; i) Bisulfitgruppen; j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; k) Carboxygruppen; l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silicon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht siliconhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silicon enthält; oder deren Gemischen.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone, preferably a silicone, selected from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups; l) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ; or their mixtures.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean. Preferred silicones are described below. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-I), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula Si-1, the compounds are preferably:
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃
where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o. G. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^-1 at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s ^{-1 being} particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may, for. B. by the formula M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2) x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M wherein R in the above formula is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon group of 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar group of the general formula -R ¹ HZ wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group attached to hydrogen and the group Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "A" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, Ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "Is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.

• – G ist -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -O-CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -O-CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -O-CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)₂, -O-CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₃, -O-CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -O-CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -O-C(CH₃)₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus • -Q-N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂ • -Q-N(R'')₂ • -Q-N⁺(R'')₃A^– • -Q–N⁺H(R'')₂A^– • -Q-N⁺H₂(R'')A^– • -Q-N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^–, wobei jedes Q für eine chemische Bindung, -CH₂-, -CH₂-CH₂-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂-, -C(CH₃)₂-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂CH₂-, -CH₂C(CH₃)₂-, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₂- steht, R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, -CH₂-CH(CH₃)Ph, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II) R ' _a G _3-a -Si (OSiG ₂ ) _n - (OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a R ' _a (Si-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from • -QN (R'') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R'') ₂ • -QN (R'') ₂ • -QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- • -Q-N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^- • -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- • -QN (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R '' H ₂ A ^- , where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R '' is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, - CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, Iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Also particularly preferred are agents according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred , The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt especially 0.5 to 5 wt .-% amino-functional) silicone (s) included.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 30 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht.The INCI CYCLOMETHICONE designated cyclic dimethicones are inventively used with preference. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV R ₃ Si [O-SiR ₂ ] _x - (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-IV), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers. Cosmetic compositions according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, are therefore characterized in that they are transparent or translucent. In the context of the present invention, transparent or translucent is understood as meaning a composition which has an NTU value of less than 100. The Nephelometric Turbidity Unit (NTU) value is a unit used in water treatment for turbidity measurements in liquids. It is the unit of turbidity measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

The compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. Benefits have been observed especially in hair and scalp treatment. Thus, cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment agents, increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which can be, for. B. reflected in higher melting temperatures in the differential thermal analysis.

There is also an improvement in wet and dry combabilities and prevention of premature splitting in the treated hair. On the skin and in particular the scalp, the compositions according to the invention cause an increase in the elasticity and, surprisingly, sebum-regulating effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened.

• – Zugfestigkeit von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren;
• – Kämmbarkeit von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren;
• – Farbbrillanz von coloriertem Haar,
• – Verringerung der Elastizitätsabnahme von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren bei Beschädigung durch atmosphärische Einwirkungen.

Another object of the present invention is the use of cosmetic agents according to the invention, in particular hair treatment compositions, for improving at least one of the properties

• Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;
• Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;
• - color brilliance of colored hair,
• - Reduction in the elasticity of keratin fibers, especially human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents.

Another object of the present invention is the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 agents of the invention for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term influencing the natural pigmentation process is the positive or negative influence on the natural coloration / coloring and / or pigmentation of the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the stimulation or the partial or complete inhibition of the natural, d. H. understood biological pigmentation process in skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles.

Under skin and skin appendages in the context of the invention, the skin, the mucosa, the hair and its hair follicles, glands and nails, especially skin, mucous membranes, hair and hair follicles to understand. The term skin is particularly preferably to be understood as meaning the skin without mucous membrane. Hair and hair follicles, preferably body hair, beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably beard hair and head hair, very particularly preferably hair on the head or the corresponding hair follicles are to be understood by the term skin appendages.

According to a preferred embodiment, the influencing of the natural pigmentation process means the positive or negative influencing at least one partial step of the natural pigmentation process. This influence relates in particular to the regulation of such molecular signals that influence the biological or natural pigmentation process.

Preferably, the regulation of the biological or natural pigmentation process by gene regulation, d. H. the regulation at the expression level, and / or enzyme regulation, d. H. the regulation at the activity level, and / or the regulation at the hormone level. Particularly preferred is the regulation of melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, preferably of the hair, inter alia, the regulation of gene expression of MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. Furthermore, the regulation of tyrosinase, both the gene expression of tyrosinase and the regulation at the enzyme level includes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the natural pigmentation process of the hair is influenced, in particular stimulated or stimulated. In particular, the positive influence, preferably the positive regulation (upregulation or activation or excitation or increase) is understood as influencing, which leads to a stimulation of the natural, biological pigmentation process. Particularly preferred is the stimulation of melanogenesis in the human hair follicle, especially the hair of the head (the hair follicles located on the scalp / head). Particularly preferred as regulation at the hormone level is the induction of melanogenesis-stimulating hormones, in particular alpha-MSH and / or ACTH (corticotrophin, adrenocorticotropin, adrenocorticotropic hormone). Especially preferred as regulation at the enzyme level (for example the tyrosinase) is the stimulation, in particular increase of the amount and / or activity of the enzyme (eg the tyrosinase) as well as any other form of stimulation.

According to the invention, the pigmentation process, in particular the melanogenesis, the skin and the skin appendages, preferably the hair or the hair follicle, can be influenced. In particular, the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, can be influenced in mammals, particularly preferably in humans. The melanogenesis is preferably influenced in the melanocytes, particularly preferably the hair or the hair follicle. A mere increase in the number of vital, viable or melanocytes capable of producing melanin in the hair follicle or the increase in their general vitality is preferably not included. Preferably, the pigmentation process, preferably the melanogenesis, of the human hair or of the human hair follicle is influenced.

By stimulating melanogenesis, preferably melanogenesis in the hair follicle, the stimulation, enhancement, stimulation or improvement of the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes (preferably the melanocytes in the hair follicle) is particularly preferred according to the invention.

This is achieved, for example, by increasing the gene expression of signal molecules such as MCR1 (melanocortin receptor 1), gp100 and ckit. According to a preferred embodiment, the influence, preferably stimulation, of the melanogenesis is achieved by the use according to the invention. In particular, melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, is preferably stimulated in the hair or hair follicles of the hairy scalp and / or the beard, in particular in humans.

For the purposes of the present invention, the stimulation of the pigmentation means, in particular, the improvement, enhancement and / or stimulation of the transport of the melanosomes into the keratinocytes surrounding the hair follicle, and furthermore the pigmentation of the individual hair perceptible with the eye or correspondingly suitable measuring methods, a selection of hairs , in particular an area of hairy skin, in particular the scalp, or of the entire head and / or whisker.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the agents according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 is suitable for stimulating or improving the pigmentation of the hair. At the same time the hair is maintained during the application (improved).

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the means according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 prevents, preferably substantially prevents, and / or reduces hair graying, in particular of human hair. For the purposes of the present invention, hair graying is understood as meaning both the hair graying which is visually discernible by the mixture of white and pigmented hair and the pigment dilution in a single hair, that is to say the graying of a single hair.

A prevention of hair graying takes place especially in hair not grayed, a reduction in hair graying can take place both in already grayed as well as hair not yet graying. In one case, hair follicles in which the melanogenesis is not, no longer or not completely or disturbed or reduced, again stimulated / stimulated to melanogenesis, while in non-grayed hair / hair follicles a disorder, reduction or down-regulation of melanogenesis not first or only to a lesser extent.

According to a further preferred embodiment, hair that has already been grayed out is repigmented by the use according to the invention of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 or the agents according to the invention.

According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the use according to the invention is a cosmetic use which is non-therapeutic. In particular, the use according to the invention, which aims at the hair growth caused by the natural aging process, in particular non-diseased hair graying, is a purely cosmetic use which does not represent a treatment and / or prophylaxis of a disease, thus being non-therapeutic.

According to a particular embodiment, the use according to the invention takes place topically, ie by application to the skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the face and / or scalp, in particular the scalp.

According to a further preferred embodiment, hair that has already been grayed out is repigmented by the use according to the invention of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 or the agents according to the invention.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the agents according to the invention or the use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 is capable of positively influencing, in particular stimulating, the natural pigmentation process, in particular in the hair or hair follicle , The combination according to the invention induced both gene expression of MCR-1 and that of ckit and gp100 in a synergistic manner. In addition, a synergistic increase in melanin synthesis was observed.

By applying the combination according to the invention or agents used according to the invention, the natural pigmentation process can thus be influenced, in particular stimulated, by the skin and / or skin appendages. In particular, this can be used to influence, in particular stimulate, the natural pigmentation process of the hair, the hair follicle or in the hair follicle. The compositions used in the invention are suitable for stimulating and / or improving the pigmentation of the hair, stimulating melanogenesis, in particular in the hair follicle, preventing and / or reducing hair graying, and repigmenting grayed hair.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agents used according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Another object of the present invention is a method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, preferably in melanocytes, and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or repigmentation of grayed hair, characterized in that EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 is contacted topically with hair and / or skin.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the uses or agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it.

Example 1:

Detection of the differential expression of melanogenesis-relevant genes after treatment with EUK-134

The ligands involved in melanogenesis, such as SCF or alpha-MSH (melanocyte stimulating hormone alpha) bind to various receptors, by which the corresponding signal is transmitted to the cell interior. The receptor for SCF is ckit, the receptor for alpha-MSH is MCR-1 (melanocortin receptor 1). Such substances which cause a change in the expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit may influence melanogenesis. In the case of induction (upregulation or stimulation) of the gene expression of the corresponding receptors, a stimulation of the melanogenesis is to be assumed.

Gp100 is a protein found and stabilized in the membrane of melanosomes. Since melanin is increasingly produced in the cells after the application of substances that have a positive influence on melanogenesis, there is an increase in the number of melanosomes required for transport. A substance that induces gene expression of gp100 is therefore a pigment stimulating agent.

Particularly preferred substances which stimulate the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular hair or hair follicles, are those which both cause gene expression of MCR-1 and / or ckit and also induce gene expression of gp100.

The determination of the extent of the change in gene expression after administration of such substances to suitable cells / cell systems / tissue cultures can provide information about the effectiveness of the active ingredient.

After preparation of three-dimensional organotypic hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells on microcarriers, they were incubated with EUK-134 for 72 h. To carry out the PCR, the RNA from the organotypic cell cultures is first isolated with the aid of the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.

To quantify gene expression, the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression). Values greater than or equal to 1.8-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.5-fold expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed. Values greater than or equal to 1.5-fold expression or less than or equal to 0.7-fold expression of the untreated control are considered to tend to be differentially expressed. Table 1: Influence of EUK-134 on the expression of melanogenesis-regulating genes Konz gp100 c-kit MW SD MW SD untreated 1.0 0.96 1.0 0.35 CEC 134 0.005% 1.2 1.05 2.0 2.18 0.01% 1.7 0.40 2.6 1.10 0.05% 4.5 1.98 7.0 0.23 0.1% 3.1 0.29 7.0 0.18

Following the application of EUK-134, a concentration-dependent induction of gene expression was detected for both genes gp100 and ckit compared to the untreated control.

Example 2:

Evidence of Induction of gp100 by Western Blot Analysis

In addition to the induction of gene expression, translation into the corresponding proteins is also important for influencing cellular mechanisms. The expression of gp100 was therefore additionally detected at the protein level by Western Blot technique. For this purpose, the proteins were extracted from three-dimensional organotypical hair follicle cell cultures from dermal papilla cells and hair follicle melanocytes, which were treated with EUK-134 for 72 h, and electrophoretically separated. Subsequently, the proteins were transferred to a nitrocellulose membrane (blotting). On this membrane, the protein sought can then be detected by means of specific antibodies and quantified in relation to the untreated control (= 1). Table 2: Influence of EUK-134 on the expression of gp100 relative to the untreated control [%] Conc [%] gp100 untreated 100 CEC 134 0.1 124

At a use concentration of 0.1%, the protein expression of gp100 could be induced by 24% compared to the untreated control.

Example 3:

Stimulation of melanin synthesis

Melanin is a dye that is produced and stored in the melanosomes of melanocytes. Melanin gives the hair its true color, whereby the coloration is produced by a mixture of two types of melanin, eu- and pheomelanin. Melanogenesis is a complicated and often regulated synthesis process. First, tyrosine is converted by the enzyme tyrosinase into L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) and then through several intermediate steps in the various melanin pigments. An active agent which positively influences melanogenesis and leads to an increased melanin content in hair follicle melanocytes is particularly suitable for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, preventing hair graying and / or stimulating pigmentation.

To examine the melanin content, isolated, organ-cultured hair follicles were treated with EUK-134 for 7 days. Untreated hair follicles were used as controls. After 7 days, the hair follicle equivalents were homogenized and the melanin extracted by NaOH (1M) + 10% DMSO at 100 ° C for 45 min. Aliquots of the samples were then transferred to a 96well plate and the absorbance measured at 492 nm. The increase in the melanin content was evaluated from day 0 to day 7. All values were related to the untreated control on day 7 (= 100%). Table 3: Melanin content in organotypic hair follicle cell cultures after treatment with EUK-134 Melanin content [%] Konz d7 p-value [%] MW SD untreated 100 5 CEC 134 0.05 150 9 0.0009 0.1 131 5 0.037

Both at a use concentration of 0.05% and 0.1%, the melanin content of the organotypic hair follicle cell cultures could be induced compared to the untreated control.

At a concentration of 0.05%, the values differ highly significantly (p-value determined by student t-test), at a use concentration of 0.1% significantly from the control value.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• WO 2003/103616 [0007]
• WO 92/13829 [0022]
• DE 3725030 A [0109]
• DE 4413686 [0150]

Claims (11)

Cosmetic agent containing a. EUK-134 and / or EUK 118 as well b. at least one care substance. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 in a total amount of 0.000001-10% by weight, preferably 0.00001-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0, 0001-2 wt .-%, most preferably 0.001-1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the care substance is selected from polymers (preferably cationic and / or amphoteric polymers), plant extracts, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, carbohydrates, quinones, especially biochinones, preferably ubiquinones, bisabolol and / or Bisaboloxides, taurine, silicones, furanones, vegetable oils, urea and urea derivatives, creatine, ectoine, α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form, fatty acid triglycerides, flavonoids and / or isoflavonoids; in particular selected from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides, oligosaccharides, taurine, carnitine, carnitine derivatives, creatine, ectoine, panthenol and pantolactone, more preferably panthenol, pantolactone, carnitine and / or carnitine tartrate. Use of EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 or a preparation according to claim 1 to 3 for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular the hair. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that at least one sub-step of the natural pigmentation process is stimulated. Use according to one of claims 4 or 5, characterized in that the pigmentation of the hair is stimulated and / or improved. Use according to one of Claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the melanogenesis, in particular in the melanocytes, is influenced, preferably stimulated, preferably in the hair. Use according to one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the hair graying is prevented and / or reduced. Use according to any one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that the gray hair is repigmented. Use according to any one of claims 4 to 9, characterized in that the use is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic use. Method for influencing the natural pigmentation process of skin and / or skin appendages, in particular stimulation of the natural pigmentation process, in particular melanogenesis, preferably in melanocytes, and / or the pigmentation of the hair, for preventing and / or reducing hair graying and / or for repigmenting gray hair, characterized in that bringing EUK-134 and / or EUK-118 topically with hair and / or skin in contact.