Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/85—Polyesters
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
  • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
  • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
  • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
  • C08K5/0008—Organic ingredients according to more than one of the "one dot" groups of C08K5/01 - C08K5/59
  • C08K5/0041—Optical brightening agents, organic pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

• Cosmetic composition comprising a dyestuff, said dyestuff and cosmetic treatment method
• the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising novel dyestuffs, said dyestuffs and a cosmetic treatment method employing them.
• the makeup compositions generally contain dyestuffs, such as pigments or dyes, which impart the desired colors to the deposited makeup.
• dyestuffs such as pigments or dyes
• the number of dyestuffs that can be used in cosmetics is particularly limited, in particular because they must be registered on positive regulatory lists, which are different according to the economic zones (Europe, USA, Japan). The widening of the colorimetric range from authorized dyestuffs would therefore be a major asset, even more so if they are coloring matter of natural origin.
• dyestuffs such as water-soluble dyes may in certain cases have a tendency to disgorge, which may be the case, for example in the case of makeup compositions such as lipstick or nail polish. , a claw on the lips or on the nails, as well as an alteration of the quality of the make-up.
• the object of the present invention is to propose novel dyestuffs which can be used in cosmetics, not having the disadvantages of the prior art.
• the encapsulation or coating of dye compounds with / with biopolyesters made it possible to obtain dyestuffs having adjustable colorimetric properties; in particular, the modulation of the hue (delta E) may be dependent on the rate of encapsulation / coating and / or the preparation method used.
• the water-soluble or lipophilic dyes can be perfectly immobilized, which implies that their disgorging is particularly limited.
• the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one dyestuff comprising a biopolyester and a dye compound, said biopolyester comprising repeating units of formula (I) as defined above.
• said coloring compound being chosen from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, or inorganic or organic (insoluble) pigments, and mixtures thereof.
• Another object of the invention is the coloring material as such.
• the dyestuffs according to the invention may have a very wide range of riate color in the visible range and I 1 UV, may depend on the nature of the dye compound, its concentration, and / or the employed preparation method, which allows the use of particularly advantageous in the compositions cosmetics, especially make-up. This is particularly remarkable and advantageous since these dyestuffs may have a substantially identical basic composition, that is to say based on biopolyesters, which makes it possible to simplify their implementation in cosmetic compositions, said materials dyes being easily interchangeable within the same base composition, this making it possible to avoid the adaptations of each composition to the nature of each dyestuff.
• the dyestuffs according to the invention also have the advantage of not disgorging in the usual cosmetic media, they include conventional carbon oils or silicone oils.
• the dyestuffs advantageously have good coverage.
• biopolyesters that can be used in the preparation of the dyestuffs according to the present invention are preferably polyesters of natural origin or from bioresources.
• R is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom
• n is between 450 and 1400.
• R is selected from hydrogen, methyl, ethyl.
• biopolyesters according to the invention may preferably be homopolymers or copolymers comprising only monomers of formula (I).
• They can also be copolymers comprising, in addition to monomers of formula (I), additional monomers.
• R ' is a linear or branched, C1-C18 saturated alkyl chain or a hydrogen atom; and m is between 450 and 1400.
• ethylenically unsaturated monomers usually used in cosmetics, such as vinyl monomers, in particular (meth) acrylic monomers.
• the monomers of formula (I) represent 30 to 100% by weight, in particular 40 to 95% by weight, or even 55 to 90% by weight, and even more preferably 70 to 80% by weight. weight, of the total weight of the biopolyester.
• the additional monomers can therefore be absent (0%) or be present in a proportion of 0.1% to 70% by weight, in particular 5 to 60% by weight, in particular 45% by weight, and even more preferably 20 to 30% by weight. in weight.
• biopolyesters that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture:
• polyalkanoates in particular poly (hydroxybutyrate), and in particular (hydroxybutyrate) or PHB, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyvalerate or PHBV, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyhexanoate; or PHBHx, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctonoate or PHBO, polyhydroxybutyrate-co-polyhydroxyoctadecanoate or PHBOd.
• the polyalkanoates may in particular comprise the following repeating units, alone or as a mixture: hydroxybutyrate hydroxyvalerate hydroxyhexanoate
• the biopolyesters according to the invention have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of between 40,000 and 100,000 g / mol (ie 40 to 100 kDa).
• the coloring compounds that can be used to prepare the dyestuffs according to the invention can be chosen from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes or inorganic or organic (insoluble) pigments. A mixture of coloring compounds can be used.
• the dyes likely to be used in the present invention are preferably selected from the following families, alone or in mixture: the family of curcunoids, which notably comprises curcumin, turmeric, curry, saffron and their extracts;
• riboflavin family, which notably comprises riboflavin (or vitamin B2) and its derivatives;
• porphyrins which notably comprises chlorophyll, chlorophylline and their derivatives, especially their cupric complexes;
• carotenoid family which includes carotenes and xantophylls; beta-carotene, lutein, canthaxanthin, lycopene, apocarotenal (beta-apo-8-carotenal), annatto, bixin, norbixin, annatto, zeaxanthin;
• betalain family which includes betanin, beetroot red (beetroot red);
• the anthocyanin family which includes the elderberry; the family of isotins to which the indigoids belong, and in particular indigo, indirubine, indigotine, halogenoindigo such as dichloroindigo, di-bromoindigo, thioindigos, indigo acetates;
• azorubine (or carmoisine); amaranth (or azorubine S);
• capsantine or capsorubin or paprika or paprika extract
• curcumin fat-soluble pigment
• riboflavin water-soluble dye
• chlorophyll organic pigment
• anthocyanins water-soluble pigments
• dye compounds selected from carotenoids, anthocyanins, betanin, caramel and annatto (bixin, norbixin).
• the dyestuffs according to the invention are preferably in powder form (solid) or in dispersion in an aqueous and / or organic solvent.
• They preferably comprise 40 to 95% by weight of biopolyesters and 5 to 60% by weight of coloring compounds. Preferably, they comprise 50 to 90% by weight, or even 55 to 85% by weight of biopolyesters and 10 to 50% by weight, or even 15 to 45% by weight of coloring compounds; they may furthermore comprise additives, solvents or others, for example already present in the dye compounds.
• the weight ratio between the dye compounds and the biopolyesters is preferably between 0.05 and 1.2; in particular between 0.1 and 1.0, and more preferably between 0.2 and 0.8; and preferentially between 0.45 and 0.8.
• this weight ratio is between 0.45 and 1, 2, or even between 0.5 and 1, 0 and even better between 0.5 and 0.8.
• the dyestuffs according to the invention can be obtained by different methods.
• solubilization or possible dispersion of the dye compounds in a suitable solvent in particular water and / or dichloromethane; mixing and forming an emulsion, water-in-oil or oil-in-water in the presence of a suitable surfactant, especially sodium lauryl sulphate or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate;
• a suitable surfactant especially sodium lauryl sulphate or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate
• the dyestuff can thus be obtained in the form of a dispersion (powder dispersed in a solvent) or in the form of a powder (dry powder, when all the solvents have been evaporated).
• the dyestuffs according to the invention by a melting / grinding process, comprising the steps of: - heating the biopolyesters at a temperature above their melting temperature, so as to make them fluid so as to be able to mix them with the coloring compounds;
• coloring compounds as such or in dispersion / solution in a suitable solvent; mixing, for example with a kneader or an extruder,
• the dyestuff in the form of a dispersion (powder dispersed in a solvent) or, more preferably, in the form of a powder.
• the dyestuffs according to the invention may advantageously be used in the cosmetics field.
• compositions may be present in cosmetic compositions in a proportion of 0.1 to
• Said cosmetic composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with cutaneous tissues such as the skin of the face or the body, and keratin materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the skin. nails.
• a cosmetically acceptable medium that is to say a medium that is compatible with cutaneous tissues such as the skin of the face or the body, and keratin materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the skin. nails.
• composition may then comprise, according to the intended application, the usual constituents for this type of composition.
• the composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise a liquid fatty phase, which may comprise at least one compound chosen from oils and / or solvents of mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, carbonated, hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based, volatile or non-volatile, singly or in combination to the extent that they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and are compatible with the intended use.
• volatile is intended to mean any compound capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials, or the lips, in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 1 atm).
• this volatile compound has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg).
• non-volatile means a compound remaining on the keratin materials or the lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0, 13Pa).
• the cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention may comprise, in a liquid fatty phase, at least one oil and / or a solvent which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
• esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols advantageously, said ester is a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate or has the following formula: R'i-COO-R ' 2 where:
• R '1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and whose hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more a plurality of heteroatoms selected from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions, and
• R'2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and of which the hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions.
• R'i and / or R'2 may carry one or more substituents selected, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O and / or N, such as amino, amino , alkoxy, hydroxyl.
• R'i groups are those derived from preferably higher fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic and isostearic acids. , arachidic, behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, oleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof.
• R'i is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R ' 2 is a branched unsubstituted alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preference from 9 to 11 ato- my carbon.
• C 8 -C 48 esters optionally incorporating into their hydrocarbon chain one or more heteroatoms from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions; and more particularly purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, C 2 to C 5 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate; and the heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, as well as isopropyl
• hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; branched C8-C16 esters, especially isohexyl neopentanoate.
• oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C 4 to C 24 , the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, maize, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, ofnadooulier, passionflower, muscat rose, jojoba, palm, calophyllum; or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810 ®", "812 ®” and "8
• C6-C32 monoalcohols in particular C12-C26, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2 -butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and octyldodecanol;
• hydrocarbon oils volatile or not, of synthetic or mineral origin, which may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 5 to 100 carbon atoms, and in particular petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, squalane, perhydrosqualine and their mixtures.
• linear, branched and / or cyclic C5-C48 alkanes and preferably branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins); especially decane, heptane, dodecane, cyclohexane; as well as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane. 5 / silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile;
• Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups.
• the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenylthiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
• PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
• phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenylthiloxanes,
• the liquid fatty phase may further comprise additional oils and / or solvents, which may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
• fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils;
• - oils of animal origin - C 6 to C 40 ethers, especially C 10 -C 40 ; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether;
• - C8-C32 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.
• - Bifunctional oils comprising two functions selected from ester and / or amide and comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably 10 to 24 carbons, and 4 heteroatoms selected from O and N; preferably the amide and ester functions being in the chain; ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone;
• aldehydes which are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde;
• the liquid fatty phase may represent 1 to 90% by weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 75% by weight, in particular from 10 to 60% by weight, or even 25 to 55% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
• the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax of vegetable, animal, mineral, synthetic or even silicone origin.
• hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax can be mentioned alone or as a mixture; Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax; paraffin waxes of lignite; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; the wax of Montan; ozokerites; polyethylene waxes; waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyls, alkoxys and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.
• composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional dyestuffs which may be chosen from pulverulent compounds such as pigments, fillers, pearlescent agents and flakes, and / or liposoluble or water-soluble dyes.
• additional dyestuffs which may be chosen from pulverulent compounds such as pigments, fillers, pearlescent agents and flakes, and / or liposoluble or water-soluble dyes.
• the dyestuffs in particular pulverulent, may be present in the composition in a content of from 0.01 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, or even from 1 to 30% by weight.
• pigments it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.
• the pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, interferential or not.
• inorganic pigments mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue.
• organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.
• the pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, blue. ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
• the fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon and polyethylene, poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, nitrile and the like.
• organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
• Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow, 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 , yellow quinoline. They may represent 0.01 to 20% of the weight of the composition and better still 0.1 to 6%.
• the water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice, methylene blue and may represent 0.01 to 6% of the total weight of the composition.
• composition may furthermore comprise other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions, and which may be chosen from thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, leveling agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers and in particular film-forming liposoluble polymers; surfactants, emulsifiers; fillers, and mixtures thereof.
• other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions may be chosen from thickeners, gelling agents, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, leveling agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers and in particular film-forming liposoluble polymers; surfactants, emulsifiers; fillers, and mixtures thereof.
• compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a suspension, in particular a dispersion of oil in water by means of vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a two-phase or multiphase lotion; a spray; a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and in particular stick or cup, or a compacted solid.
• a cosmetic composition in particular in the form of a suspension, in particular a dispersion of oil in water by means of vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple
• compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin of the body or face, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, and more particularly for the makeup of the lips, eyelashes, hair and / or face. They can therefore be in the form of a care product or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning, cleaning, shaping and / or hair care; they are advantageously in the form of makeup composition, including mascara, lipstick, blush, eyeshadow, foundation.
• the subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyebrows and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on the said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
• This process makes it possible in particular to make up said keratin materials, in particular the lips, the face, the eyelids and / or the cheeks, by application of a composition of lipstick, eyeshadow or cheeks, or foundation. according to the invention.
• a dyestuff according to the invention is prepared by a melt / grind process.
• Colorimetric measurements are carried out on the dyestuffs according to the invention, in comparison with the close or identical coloring compounds.
• a dyestuff according to the invention is prepared by an inverse emulsion-solvent evaporation method.
• PHB poly (hydroxybutyrate)
• surfactant Isolan GPS from Goldschmidt
• HPLC water 0.2 g of Elderberry dye (503267d of Sensient) is dissolved in HPLC water.
• the two mixtures are mixed, and emulsified at 6500 rpm for 10 minutes with an ultraturrax.
• the solvents are evaporated under reduced pressure (rotavarch) for 1 hour at 40 ° C., then concentrated to dryness and passed to the cryogrind.
• a saturated violet powder is obtained with a yield of 78%.
• a dyestuff according to the invention is prepared by a direct emulsion-solvent evaporation method.
• the two mixtures are mixed and emulsified at 650 rpm for 3 minutes and then at 770 rpm for 10 minutes with a magnetic bar stirrer.
• the solavnts are evaporated under reduced pressure (rotary evaporator) for 1 hour at 40 ° C., then centrifuged and filtered. In the end, 15 mg of dyestuff are obtained in the form of a dark orange powder.
• a cosmetic composition of the lipstick type comprising (% by weight): - 5% of coloring matter of Example 1 - 15% of polyethylene wax
• a cosmetic composition of the lipstick type comprising (% by weight):
• a cosmetic composition of mascara comprising (% by weight):
• a cosmetic composition of eyeshadow comprising (% by weight):
• a styling gel cosmetic composition comprising (% by weight): dyestuff of Example 4 1%

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• 2009
  • 2009-03-11 FR FR0951503A patent/FR2942963B1/fr active Active
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