WO2023009717A1 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023009717A1 WO2023009717A1 PCT/US2022/038666 US2022038666W WO2023009717A1 WO 2023009717 A1 WO2023009717 A1 WO 2023009717A1 US 2022038666 W US2022038666 W US 2022038666W WO 2023009717 A1 WO2023009717 A1 WO 2023009717A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic composition
- composition
- weight
- composition according
- wax
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 241
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 66
- -1 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 70
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 69
- 229920000903 polyhydroxyalkanoate Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 57
- 239000005014 poly(hydroxyalkanoate) Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 239000000806 elastomer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 44
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 30
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 claims description 26
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 claims description 26
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 229920006037 cross link polymer Polymers 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 21
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 150000002194 fatty esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- SJZRECIVHVDYJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-hydroxybutyric acid Chemical compound OCCCC(O)=O SJZRECIVHVDYJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920002050 silicone resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920000331 Polyhydroxybutyrate Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 claims description 4
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- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910002029 synthetic silica gel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- NYHNVHGFPZAZGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(O)C(O)=O NYHNVHGFPZAZGA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- ZZSNKZQZMQGXPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethyl cellulose Chemical compound CCOCC1OC(OC)C(OCC)C(OCC)C1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC)C(CO)O1 ZZSNKZQZMQGXPY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
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- 229920000520 poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) Polymers 0.000 description 5
- BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-Pentadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C BANXPJUEBPWEOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WHBMMWSBFZVSSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-hydroxybutyric acid Chemical compound CC(O)CC(O)=O WHBMMWSBFZVSSR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 3
- JRHWHSJDIILJAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hydroxypentanoic acid Chemical compound CCCC(O)C(O)=O JRHWHSJDIILJAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- JHWNWJKBPDFINM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Laurolactam Chemical compound O=C1CCCCCCCCCCCN1 JHWNWJKBPDFINM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
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- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 description 3
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
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- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- FPYJFEHAWHCUMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N maleic anhydride Chemical compound O=C1OC(=O)C=C1 FPYJFEHAWHCUMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 239000004005 microsphere Substances 0.000 description 3
- VLKZOEOYAKHREP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-Hexane Chemical compound CCCCCC VLKZOEOYAKHREP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O ULQISTXYYBZJSJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229940043268 2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane Drugs 0.000 description 2
- REKYPYSUBKSCAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-hydroxypentanoic acid Chemical compound CCC(O)CC(O)=O REKYPYSUBKSCAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- KAKZBPTYRLMSJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Butadiene Chemical group C=CC=C KAKZBPTYRLMSJV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- LEEDMQGKBNGPDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isoeicosane Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LEEDMQGKBNGPDN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 125000003158 alcohol group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
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- 229910000423 chromium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N decanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O GHVNFZFCNZKVNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium stearate Chemical compound [Mg+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O HQKMJHAJHXVSDF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
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- OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Malonic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)=O OFOBLEOULBTSOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001736 Metabolix Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 240000007817 Olea europaea Species 0.000 description 1
- OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Palmitinsaeure-octylester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCCCCCCC OQILCOQZDHPEAZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004264 Petrolatum Substances 0.000 description 1
- JFZHPFOXAAIUMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phenylethylmalonamide Chemical compound CCC(C(N)=O)(C(N)=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 JFZHPFOXAAIUMB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001328 Polyvinylidene chloride Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 108010039491 Ricin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920013623 Solprene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006362 Teflon® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000005212 Terminalia tomentosa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- CQPFMGBJSMSXLP-UHFFFAOYSA-M acid orange 7 Chemical compound [Na+].OC1=CC=C2C=CC=CC2=C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 CQPFMGBJSMSXLP-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000001252 acrylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004442 acylamino group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000004279 alanine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000001931 aliphatic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000001014 amino acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001413 amino acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K azanium;manganese(3+);phosphonato phosphate Chemical compound [NH4+].[Mn+3].[O-]P([O-])(=O)OP([O-])([O-])=O UHHXUPJJDHEMGX-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L azure blue Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[Al+3].[S-]S[S-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-].[O-][Si]([O-])([O-])[O-] IRERQBUNZFJFGC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- POJOORKDYOPQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-L barium(2+) 5-chloro-2-[(2-hydroxynaphthalen-1-yl)diazenyl]-4-methylbenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Ba+2].C1=C(Cl)C(C)=CC(N=NC=2C3=CC=CC=C3C=CC=2O)=C1S([O-])(=O)=O.C1=C(Cl)C(C)=CC(N=NC=2C3=CC=CC=C3C=CC=2O)=C1S([O-])(=O)=O POJOORKDYOPQLS-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 235000013871 bee wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012166 beeswax Substances 0.000 description 1
- GONOPSZTUGRENK-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl(trichloro)silane Chemical compound Cl[Si](Cl)(Cl)CC1=CC=CC=C1 GONOPSZTUGRENK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001222 biopolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- DBZJJPROPLPMSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromoeosin Chemical compound O1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2C21C1=CC(Br)=C(O)C(Br)=C1OC1=C(Br)C(O)=C(Br)C=C21 DBZJJPROPLPMSN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IAQRGUVFOMOMEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N butene Natural products CC=CC IAQRGUVFOMOMEM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004204 candelilla wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013868 candelilla wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940073532 candelilla wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbonic acid Chemical compound OC(O)=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000001732 carboxylic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- DGQLVPJVXFOQEV-JNVSTXMASA-N carminic acid Chemical compound OC1=C2C(=O)C=3C(C)=C(C(O)=O)C(O)=CC=3C(=O)C2=C(O)C(O)=C1[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O DGQLVPJVXFOQEV-JNVSTXMASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940074979 cetyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- OIQPTROHQCGFEF-UHFFFAOYSA-L chembl1371409 Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].OC1=CC=C2C=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=CC2=C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 OIQPTROHQCGFEF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- PZTQVMXMKVTIRC-UHFFFAOYSA-L chembl2028348 Chemical compound [Ca+2].[O-]S(=O)(=O)C1=CC(C)=CC=C1N=NC1=C(O)C(C([O-])=O)=CC2=CC=CC=C12 PZTQVMXMKVTIRC-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- ZLWLTDZLUVBSRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-K chembl2360149 Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].O=C1C(N=NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)=C(C(=O)[O-])NN1C1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 ZLWLTDZLUVBSRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- XFVGXQSSXWIWIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N chloro hypochlorite;titanium Chemical compound [Ti].ClOCl XFVGXQSSXWIWIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QFSKIUZTIHBWFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N chromium;hydrate Chemical compound O.[Cr] QFSKIUZTIHBWFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000013065 commercial product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940075479 d & c red no. 27 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940086624 d&c orange no. 10 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940099449 d&c orange no. 4 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940058010 d&c red no. 21 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075484 d&c red no. 30 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075493 d&c red no. 6 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940057946 d&c red no. 7 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000005690 diesters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N diglycerol Chemical class OCC(O)COCC(O)CO GPLRAVKSCUXZTP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- HBGGXOJOCNVPFY-UHFFFAOYSA-N diisononyl phthalate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)OCCCCCCC(C)C HBGGXOJOCNVPFY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VPWFPZBFBFHIIL-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium 4-[(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl)diazenyl]-3-oxidonaphthalene-2-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)C1=CC(C)=CC=C1N=NC1=C(O)C(C([O-])=O)=CC2=CC=CC=C12 VPWFPZBFBFHIIL-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- RAGZEDHHTPQLAI-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;2',4',5',7'-tetraiodo-3-oxospiro[2-benzofuran-1,9'-xanthene]-3',6'-diolate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].O1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2C21C1=CC(I)=C([O-])C(I)=C1OC1=C(I)C([O-])=C(I)C=C21 RAGZEDHHTPQLAI-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229920006341 elastomeric alloy Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000004185 ester group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000001033 ether group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- GJQLBGWSDGMZKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethylhexyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(CC)CCCCC GJQLBGWSDGMZKM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000855 fermentation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004151 fermentation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000001153 fluoro group Chemical group F* 0.000 description 1
- 125000000524 functional group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 description 1
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002314 glycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052736 halogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000002367 halogens Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N hentriacontane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC IUJAMGNYPWYUPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AHAREKHAZNPPMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexa-1,3-diene Chemical compound CCC=CC=C AHAREKHAZNPPMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid hexadecyl ester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- RRAMGCGOFNQTLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexamethylene diisocyanate Chemical compound O=C=NCCCCCCN=C=O RRAMGCGOFNQTLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000012907 honey Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920006007 hydrogenated polyisobutylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000005984 hydrogenation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052588 hydroxylapatite Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N isododecane Natural products CC(C)(C)CC(C)CC(C)(C)C VKPSKYDESGTTFR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004491 isohexyl group Chemical group C(CCC(C)C)* 0.000 description 1
- 229940097413 isopropyl maleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940060384 isostearyl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940119170 jojoba wax Drugs 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000002634 lipophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- HGPXWXLYXNVULB-UHFFFAOYSA-M lithium stearate Chemical compound [Li+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O HGPXWXLYXNVULB-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 235000010187 litholrubine BK Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940105112 magnesium myristate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019359 magnesium stearate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- DMRBHZWQMKSQGR-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium;tetradecanoate Chemical compound [Mg+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O DMRBHZWQMKSQGR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- PHLASVAENYNAOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl-bis[[methyl(diphenyl)silyl]oxy]-phenylsilane Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1[Si](C)(C=1C=CC=CC=1)O[Si](C=1C=CC=CC=1)(C)O[Si](C)(C=1C=CC=CC=1)C1=CC=CC=C1 PHLASVAENYNAOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000012170 montan wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- DUWWHGPELOTTOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-(5-chloro-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)-3-oxobutanamide Chemical compound COC1=CC(OC)=C(NC(=O)CC(C)=O)C=C1Cl DUWWHGPELOTTOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002790 naphthalenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- SWDYEOBSKYXKLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octacosanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O SWDYEOBSKYXKLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CCCMONHAUSKTEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecene Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC=C CCCMONHAUSKTEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005702 oxyalkylene group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 description 1
- 239000012188 paraffin wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019809 paraffin wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000003921 particle size analysis Methods 0.000 description 1
- XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D pentacalcium;hydroxide;triphosphate Chemical compound [OH-].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[Ca+2].[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O.[O-]P([O-])([O-])=O XYJRXVWERLGGKC-UHFFFAOYSA-D 0.000 description 1
- YWAKXRMUMFPDSH-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentene Chemical compound CCCC=C YWAKXRMUMFPDSH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940066842 petrolatum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940057874 phenyl trimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZYIBVBKZZZDFOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N phloxine O Chemical compound O1C(=O)C(C(=C(Cl)C(Cl)=C2Cl)Cl)=C2C21C1=CC(Br)=C(O)C(Br)=C1OC1=C(Br)C(O)=C(Br)C=C21 ZYIBVBKZZZDFOY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052698 phosphorus Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000004987 plasma desorption mass spectroscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001013 poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-4-hydroxybutyrate) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001483 poly(ethyl methacrylate) polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006294 polydialkylsiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001451 polypropylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088417 precipitated calcium carbonate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- PNXMTCDJUBJHQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N propyl prop-2-enoate Chemical compound CCCOC(=O)C=C PNXMTCDJUBJHQJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000004805 propylene group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([*:1])C([H])([H])[*:2] 0.000 description 1
- IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N quinbolone Chemical compound O([C@H]1CC[C@H]2[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@]4(C=CC(=O)C=C4CC3)C)CC[C@@]21C)C1=CCCC1 IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000002441 reversible effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- PYWVYCXTNDRMGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N rhodamine B Chemical compound [Cl-].C=12C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C2OC2=CC(N(CC)CC)=CC=C2C=1C1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O PYWVYCXTNDRMGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004170 rice bran wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019384 rice bran wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920003031 santoprene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012176 shellac wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000005373 siloxane group Chemical group [SiH2](O*)* 0.000 description 1
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006132 styrene block copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000001273 sulfonato group Chemical group [O-]S(*)(=O)=O 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 1
- BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetrafluoroethene Chemical group FC(F)=C(F)F BFKJFAAPBSQJPD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920006344 thermoplastic copolyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002725 thermoplastic elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002397 thermoplastic olefin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006345 thermoplastic polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920006342 thermoplastic vulcanizate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 125000003396 thiol group Chemical group [H]S* 0.000 description 1
- DHCDFWKWKRSZHF-UHFFFAOYSA-L thiosulfate(2-) Chemical group [O-]S([S-])(=O)=O DHCDFWKWKRSZHF-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000012546 transfer Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004627 transmission electron microscopy Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940117985 trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl-bis(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](O[Si](C)(C)C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 LINXHFKHZLOLEI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SMYKBXMWXCZOLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris-decyl benzene-1,2,4-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCC)C(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCC)=C1 SMYKBXMWXCZOLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940098697 zinc laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc;dodecanoate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O GPYYEEJOMCKTPR-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/0229—Sticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
Definitions
- the present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions, and specifically to cosmetic lip compositions utilizing polyhydroxy alkanoates and silicone elastomers to provide improved pigment and filler dispersion and spreading.
- a solid lipstick may be moldable, into which the powders and colorants are not easily dispersible, while a liquid lip product containing the same may be far more dispersible, but not moldable. Such tradeoffs lead to inferior products.
- the ability to improve the dispersion pigments and fillers, and to improve solid spreading, in cosmetics, even in solid, waxy, or pasty cosmetic products, is therefore useful and desirable while maintaining a good level of glide, skin feel and comfort.
- anhydrous cosmetic composition that provides improved pigment and filler powders dispersion and spreading, including when formulated as a solid, waxy, or pasty cosmetic product (e.g., a traditional lipstick).
- the disclosed anhydrous composition generally requires three components: (i) a polyhydroxyalkanoate; (ii) a polysiloxane elastomer; and (iii) a filler, a pigment, or both.
- the disclosed composition is in the form of a solid lipstick.
- the polyhydroxyalkanoate(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of, e.g., between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition.
- the polyhydroxyalkanoate comprises (i) a polyhydroxybutyrate, (ii) polyhydroxy pentanoate (ii) poly [(R)-3- hydroxyhexanoate] (PHHx), (iv) a crosspolymer comprising monomers from hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoate acid, and/or hydroxyhexanoate, or (v) a combination thereof or derivatives thereof.
- the polysiloxane elastomer may be present in an amount of, e.g., between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition.
- the polysiloxane elastomer consists of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin (such as a silsesquioxane resin).
- the cosmetic composition may optionally be free or substantially free of some materials, or classes of materials.
- the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of UV filters, polyamides, acrylic polymers, hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles, and/or cellulose or ethylcellulose-based polymer particles.
- the cosmetic composition also includes a silicone crosspolymer in amount of between, e.g., 5% and 30% by weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition also includes a wax and a hydrocarbon oil.
- the cosmetic composition may consist, or consist essentially of: the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment; and optionally a filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, an additional polymer, a fatty ester, a non-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof.
- the expression “at least one” means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
- the term “about [a number]” is intended to include values rounded to the appropriate significant digit. Thus, “about 1” would be intended to include values between 0.5 and 1.5, whereas “about 1.0” would be intended to include values between 0.95 and 1.05. As used herein, the terms “include”, “includes” and “including” are meant to be non- limiting.
- the term “substantially free [of an ingredient]” means that the composition contains less than 1% of the identified ingredient.
- the term “free [of an ingredient]” means the composition contains less than 0.1% of the identified ingredient.
- substituted means comprising at least one substituent.
- substituents for substitution include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalky groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
- the substituent(s) may be further substituted.
- compositions and methods of the present disclosure where the claimed invention “consists essentially of’ the identified ingredients and/or process steps, the “basic and novel properties” of such compositions and/or methods are “improved dispersion of pigments and/or fillers”, “improved solid spreading”, and “providing a matte or mattifying finish.”
- anhydrous composition that generally requires at least three components: (i) a polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA); (ii) a polysiloxane elastomer; and (iii) a filler, a pigment, or both.
- the composition may comprise any form, although preferably the composition is in the form of a solid, waxy, or pasty cosmetic product, such as a solid, moldable lipstick.
- the cosmetic composition generally includes at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA).
- PHAs are known to be biodegradable and can be produced via, e.g., environmentally friendly fermentation processes.
- PHAs can substitute for more traditional polymer powders (such as PMMA or Nylon) in various bases to provide equivalent viscosity modification, mattifying effects, and sebum transfer resistance.
- the polyhydroxyalkanoates drive the improvements in volume and removability and are biodegradable.
- PHAs are a sub-family of polyesters, which can be made with hydroxyl carboxylic acid monomers where the various monomers have one or more carbon chain lengths.
- the monomers of the polyhydroxyalkanoate should be in the form of a powder. This will preferably involve PHAs comprised of at least one monomer that has a carbon chain length of between 3 and 6 and more specifically between 4 and 6.
- Preferred PHAs utilize short chain length monomers, and are based on carboxylic acids having 3 carbons (propionic or propanoic acid), 4 carbons (butyric or butanoic acid), 5 carbons (valeric or pentanoic acid), or 6 carbons (caproic or hexanoic acid).
- Polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB or PH3B).
- Polyhydroxybutyrate is a polymer of 3 hydroxybutyric acid, and conforms to the formula represented by the structure shown below:
- Butanoic acid 3-hydroxy-, (3R)-, homopolymer
- PHB anoic acid
- TianAn Biopolymer a compound that has a wide range of properties
- Eckart or MicroPowders a compound that has a wide range of properties
- Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer (PHB-PHV copolymer). Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer is the copolymer that conforms generally to the structure shown below.
- Pentanoic acid 3-hydroxy-, (3R)-, polymer with (3R)-3- hydroxybutanoic acid, and has an INCI name of Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic copolymer.
- Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co- 3-hydroxyvalerate) is the copolymer of hydroxybutyric acid and hydroxypentanoic acid that conforms generally to the structure below:
- PHAs can be obtained from Eckart (a member of the Altana group), Tianan Enmat or MicroPowders.
- polyhydroxyalkanoates include poly-3- hydroxyproprionate (P3HP), poly-3 -hydroxy valerate (PHV), and poly-4-hydroxybutyrate (P4HB).
- the chain length of the monomeric constituents of the PHA may have a chain length between 1 and 6 carbons.
- the PHA has a chain length between 4 and 6 carbons, such as between 3 and 5 carbons, such as between 4 and 5 carbons, or such as 4 carbons.
- the PHA has a chain length between 4 and 6 carbons. All ranges are inclusive of endpoints.
- the PHA is poly-3-hydroxybutyrate (PHB), poly-3- hydroxyvalerate (PHV), poly [(R)-3-hydroxypentanoate] (PHHP), poly [(R)-3- hydroxyhexanoate] (PHHx), poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV), poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyexanoate) (PHBH), poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-4- hydroxybutyrate), poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate-co-4-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBW), or a combination thereof.
- PHB poly-3-hydroxybutyrate
- PV poly-3- hydroxyvalerate
- PHHP poly [(R)-3-hydroxypentanoate]
- PHx poly [(R)-3- hydroxyhexanoate]
- PHBV poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate)
- PHBH poly (3-hydroxybutyrate
- the PHA may be a crosspolymer comprising monomers from hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, and/or hydroxy hexanoic acid.
- the PHA may be a part of a copolymer, or the copolymer may be derived from two or more PHAs.
- the composition comprises only a single PHA. In other embodiments, the composition comprises a plurality of PHAs.
- the PHA is PHB, such as PHB available from Micropowders sold under the trade name BIOSOFT 915.
- the PHA can also be a Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer sold under the trade name Ecofil B110 from Eckart America or 3- Hydroxybutyrate / 3-Hydroxyhexanoate copolymer sold under the trade name Techpolymer EFA-20X from Sekisui Plastics Co. and PHB particles from Tianan from the ENMATTM brand.
- the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 0.01% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 0.1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 0.5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 2% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of PHA present in the composition is ⁇ 50% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is ⁇ 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is ⁇ 15% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is ⁇ 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is ⁇ 5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is ⁇ 3% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of PHA present (XPHA) in the composition is 0.1% ⁇ XPHA ⁇ 30% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% ⁇ XPHA ⁇ 8%. In still more preferred embodiments, 1% ⁇ XPHA ⁇ 5%.
- average particle diameter it is meant particularly according, unless otherwise indicated, the diameter d50 (median value), that is, the value of the diameter below which 50% by weight of the particle population is found (see “A Guidebook to Particle Size Analysis "published by Horiba Instruments Inc. 2016, available at www.horiba.com/fileadmin/uploads/Scientific/eMag/PSA/Guidebook/pdf/PSA_Guidebook.p dl). It can be determined by laser diffraction technique, according to the ISO 13320:2008 standard or determined with TEM Transmission Electron Microscopy.
- the PHA is in the form of particles having an average diameter (d50) less than 100 pm.
- the d50 is less than 50 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is less than 30 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is less than 20 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 0. 1 nm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 1 nm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 100 nm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 1 pm. In preferred embodiments, the d50 is between 0.1 nm and 50 mih, and more preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm. In some embodiments, the d50 is between 8 pm and 12 pm. In a preferred embodiment, the d50 is 10 pm.
- the PHA is selected to have an oil absorption of between 60 to 150 grams of one or more desired oils per 100 grams of PHA.
- the desired one or more oils is natural or synthetic sebum.
- the desired one or more oils is a cosmetic oil present in the composition, such as a silicone, an ester, a fragrance, or an antioxidant.
- the cosmetic composition also contains a polysiloxane elastomer, preferably in the form of a polysiloxane particle.
- the polysiloxane elastomer is a spherical elastomer, and preferably a non-emulsifying elastomer.
- the spherical non emulsifying elastomer silicone is provided as an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, and particularly a silsesquioxane resin coating.
- spherical non-emulsifying elastomer silicone is Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silseqsquioxane Crosspolymer, available commercially from Shin-Etsu, including, e.g., KSP- 100 (5 pm average diameter particles), KSP-101 (12 pm average diameter particles), KSP-102 (30 pm average diameter particles), and KSP-105 (2 pm average diameter particles).
- additional polysiloxane elastomers are utilized.
- the additional polysiloxane elastomer comprises, e.g., polydimethylsiloxane, particularly crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane.
- the additional polysiloxane elastomer comprises, e.g., non- spherical elastomer particles in a gel form, such as a silicone elastomer may be chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) or Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), dispersed in a linear silicone or cyclic oil.
- a silicone elastomer may be chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) or Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), dispersed in a linear silicone or cyclic oil.
- dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer such as USG-105® and USG-107A® from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506® and DC9701® from the company Dow Coming; dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from the company Shin-Etsu; dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane, such as KSG-15®; cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9040®, DC9045® and DC5930® from the company Dow Coming; dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041® from the company Dow Coming dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as
- the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 0.01% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 0.1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 0.5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is ⁇ 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is ⁇ 5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is ⁇ 4% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is ⁇ 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is or ⁇ 2% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present (XPSE) in the composition is 0.1% ⁇ XPSE ⁇ 8% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% ⁇ XPSE ⁇ 5% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of spherical non-emulsifying polysiloxane elastomer present (XSNEPSE) in the composition is 0.1% ⁇ XSNEPSE ⁇ 8% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% ⁇ XSNEPSE ⁇ 5%.
- the total amount of spherical non-emulsifying polysiloxane elastomer present (XSNEPSE) in the composition is 1% ⁇ XSNEPSE ⁇ 5%. In some embodiments, the total amount of additional polysiloxane elastomer is between 1% and 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of additional polysiloxane elastomer is between 10% and 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of additional polysiloxane elastomer is between 20% and 30% by weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition also contains a pigment, a filler, or both.
- the cosmetic compositions may contain at least one cosmetically acceptable pigment.
- suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof.
- a pigment should be understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles.
- Said pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the present disclosure but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
- inorganic pigments useful in the present disclosure include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index under the reference Cl 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under references Cl 77,499, 77, 492 and, 77,491; manganese violet (Cl 77,742); ultramarine blue (Cl 77,007); chromium oxide (Cl 77,288); chromium hydrate (Cl 77,289); and ferric blue (Cl 77,510) and mixtures thereof.
- organic pigments and lakes useful in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (Cl 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (Cl 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (Cl 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (Cl 15,510), D&C Orange No. (Cl 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (Cl 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (Cl 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (Cl 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (Cl 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (Cl 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (Cl 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (Cl 45,425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (Cl 15,985), D&C Red No. 30 (Cl 73,360), D&C Red No. 3 (Cl 45,430) and the dye or lakes based on cochineal carmine (Cl 75,570) and mixtures thereof.
- pearlescent pigments useful in the present disclosure include those selected from the group consisting of the white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
- white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
- the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 0.1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 10% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of pigment present in the composition is ⁇ 40% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is ⁇ 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is ⁇ 25% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is ⁇ 20% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is ⁇ 15% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of pigment present (XPIGMENT) in the composition is 1% ⁇ XPIGMENT ⁇ 30% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 5% ⁇ XPIGMENT ⁇ 25% by weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may further comprise at least one filler.
- filler should be understood as meaning colorless natural or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. Thus, the filler is different from the pigment described above.
- the fillers may be inorganic or organic and of any shape (for instance, platelet, spherical, and oblong shapes) and with any crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like).
- suitable additional fillers include, but are not limited to, talc; mica; silica; kaolin; powders of polyamide such as Nylon®; roIn-b-3- alanine powders; polyethylene powders; polyurethane powders, such as the powder formed of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400 by Toshiki; the powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®); lauroyllysine; starch; boron nitride; polymeric hollow microspheres, such as microspheres of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel
- poly(methyl methacrylate) particles precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate; basic magnesium carbonate; hydroxyapatite; hollow silica microspheres; glass microcapsules; ceramic microcapsules; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium myristate; barium sulphate; and mixtures thereof.
- the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 0.1%
- the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 5%, by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is
- the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 80% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 70% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 60% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 50% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is
- the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 25% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 20% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is
- the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 10% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is ⁇ 5% by weight of the composition.
- the total amount of filler present (XFILLER) in the composition is 1% ⁇ XFTT J BR ⁇ 25% by weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, 1% ⁇ XFILLER ⁇ 15% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% ⁇ XFILLER ⁇ 5%. In another preferred embodiments, 5% ⁇ XFILLER ⁇ 10% by weight of the composition.
- the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anhydrous cosmetic composition may consist or consist essentially of: (1) the polyhydroxyalkanoate; (2) the polysiloxane elastomer; (3) the pigment; and (4) optionally (a) the filler, (b) an antioxidant, (c) a fragrance, (d) a non-pigment colorant (such as an oil-soluble dye) , (e) a wax, (1) a hydrocarbon, (g) an additional polymer, (h) a fatty ester, (i) a non-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof.
- the cosmetic composition further comprises a silicone crosspolymer.
- the cosmetic composition further comprises a wax and a hydrocarbon oil.
- the cosmetic composition comprises a silicone crosspolymer, a wax, and a hydrocarbon oil.
- the anhydrous cosmetic composition consists or consists essentially of the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment, and optionally the filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, anon-pigment colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, an additional polymer, a fatty ester, anon-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof.
- the composition consists or consists essentially of the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment, the filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a non-pigment colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, a fatty ester, and a non volatile silicone.
- the composition consists or consists essentially of the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment, the filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a wax, a hydrocarbon, a fatty ester, and a non-volatile silicone.
- “Wax” as used herein means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 200° C., and in particular up to 120° C., including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- Preferred waxes are those having a melting point of greater than or equal to 45° C. and in particular greater than or equal to 55° C.
- waxes are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral and/or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
- the waxes are hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes
- “Hydrocarbon-based wax” means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain groups such as, for example, alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
- silicone wax means compounds comprising at least one silicon atom, preferably comprising Si — O groups.
- the wax comprises a polar wax.
- the polar wax is hydrocarbon-based. Suitable hydrocarbon- based waxes include, for example, beeswax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, shellac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel wax and olive wax.
- the polar wax is an ester wax. “Ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function or group.
- ester waxes include: i) the waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting point ranges from about 25 to about 120° C., such as for example C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)-stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40-alkyl stearate, Specific examples of such waxes are sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®.
- Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
- Other specific examples include esters of polyethylene glycol and of montanic acid (octacosanoic acid), such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
- the polar wax is an oil-soluble polar modified polymer.
- “Polar modified polymer” as used herein refers to a hydrophobic homopolymer or copolymer which has been modified with hydrophilic unit(s).
- Oil-soluble as used herein means that the polar modified polymer is soluble in oil, and may be, e.g., a high carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer, or a low carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer.
- “High carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer” means a polymer containing more than 20 carbon atoms.
- Suitable monomers for the hydrophobic homopolymers and/or copolymers include, but are not limited to, cyclic, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C22-C40 compounds such as, C22-C28 compounds, C24-C26 compounds, C26- C28 compounds, and C30-C38 compounds, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the monomers are C24-26 compounds, C26-C28 compounds or C30-C38 compounds.
- “Low carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer” means a polymer containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
- Suitable monomers for the hydrophobic homopolymers and/or copolymers include, but are not limited to, cyclic, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C2-C20 compounds such as, for example, styrene, ethylene, propylene, isopropylene, butylene, isobutylene, pentene, isopentene, isoprene, hexene, isohexene, decene, isodecene, and octadecene, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the monomers are C2-C8 compounds, more preferably C2-C6 compounds, and most preferably C2-C4 compounds such as ethylene, propylene and butylene.
- Suitable hydrophilic unit(s) for polar modified polymers include, but are not limited to, maleic anhydride, acrylates, alkyl acrylates such as, for example, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, and butyl acrylate, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
- maleic anhydride acrylates
- alkyl acrylates such as, for example, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, and butyl acrylate
- PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
- the oil-soluble high carbon polar modified polymer waxes can be used, including, e.g., C26-C28 alpha olefin maleic acid anhydride copolymer waxes commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE.
- CM 401 is a maleic anhydride modified wax having a Mw of 2025 and a crystallinity of 11%
- C2-C3 polar modified waxes can be used, including, e.g., polypropylene and/or polyethylene-maleic anhydride modified waxes (“PEMA,” “PPMA.” “PEPPMA”) commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE, Specific examples of such waxes include products marketed by Clariant under the LicoCare name having designations such as PP207.
- PEMA polypropylene and/or polyethylene-maleic anhydride modified waxes
- PEPPMA polyethylene-maleic anhydride modified waxes
- Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE
- Specific examples of such waxes include products marketed by Clariant under the LicoCare name having designations such as PP207.
- Suitable polar modified polymers include, but are not limited to A-C 573 A (ETHYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Drop Point, Mettler : 106° C.) from Honeywell, A-C 596 A (PROPYLENE- MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Drop Point, Mettler : 143° C.) from Honey well, A- C 597 (PROPYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Drop Point, Mettler : 141° C.) from Honeywell, ZeMac® copolymers (from VERTELLUS) which are 1:1 copolymers of ethylene and maleic anhydride, polyisobutylene-maleic anhydride sold under the trade name ISOBAM (from Kuraray), polyisoprene-graft-maleic anhydride sold by Sigma Aldrich, poly(maleic anhydride-octadecene) sold by Chevron Philips Chemical Co., poly (ethylene-co-
- the wax is an alcohol wax.
- Alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e., comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
- the at least one long-chain alcohol wax has an average carbon chain length of between about 20 and about 60 carbon atoms, most preferably between about 30 and about 50 carbon atoms.
- Suitable examples of long-chain alcohol waxes include but are not limited to alcohol waxes commercially available from Baker Hughes under the Performacol trade name such as, for example, Performacol 350 (INCI Name: C20-C40 alcohols), 425 (INCI Name: C20-C40 alcohols) and 550 (INCI Name: C30-050 alcohols).
- the long-chain alcohol wax has a melting temperature range from about 93° C. to about 105° C.
- Another example of a commercial product comprising a suitable alcohol wax is Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.
- the wax is an apolar wax.
- Apolar waxes are, in particular, hydrocarbon-based waxes formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O and P.
- apolar wax means a wax that is formed exclusively from apolar wax and not from a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.
- apolar waxes examples include hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes.
- Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
- An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
- microcrystalline waxes include Multi wax W 445® sold by the company Sonnebom and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.
- the cosmetic composition uses a low level of waxes in the composition, where the total amount of wax is ⁇ 6.5% by weight of the composition.
- the wax is present in an amount between 3% and 6.5% by weight of the composition.
- the cosmetic composition may also comprise a hydrocarbon.
- the hydrocarbon is a hydrocarbon oil.
- the hydrocarbon oil is a volatile hydrocarbon oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl, the C8 to Cl 6 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate and their mixtures.
- the hydrocarbon may be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
- the hydrocarbons comprise or consist of aliphatic hydrocarbons.
- Aliphatic hydrocarbons include, e.g., vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
- Examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons can also include linear, branched, or cyclic C6-C16 lower alkanes, including hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
- hydrocarbons may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the cosmetic composition may also include an additional cosmetically-acceptable polymer.
- an additional cosmetically-acceptable polymer may be, e.g., thermoplastic elastomers such as Styrenic block copolymers (TPE-s), Thermoplastic olefins (TPE-o), Elastomeric alloys (TPE-v or TPV), Thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPU), Thermoplastic copolyester, Thermoplastic polyamides, Santoprene (ExxonMobil), Termoton (Termopol Polimer), Amitel (DSM), Solprene (Dynasol), Engage (Dow Chemical), Hytrel (DuPont), Dryflex and Mediprene (ELASTO), Kraton (Kraton Polymers), Pibiflex, Forprene, Termoton-v, Sofprene (SBS) and Larprene (SEBS).
- the polymer is a polymer based on starch,
- fatty esters may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the cosmetic composition may also include a fatty ester.
- fatty ester includes esters derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol. This may include a linear (unbranched) fatty ester, such as cetyl palmitate, as well as a branched fatty ester, such as ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, etc.
- the fatty ester comprises an aromatic ester such as tridecyl trimellitate.
- the fatty ester comprises esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name) sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Cremer Oleo,
- fatty esters may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the cosmetic composition may also comprise a non-volatile silicone.
- a non-volatile silicone Mention is made, as example of non-volatile silicone oils, of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as those of the phenyl trimethicone type, those of the phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate type or those of the trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane type; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, in particular C8-C20 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C20 fatty alcohols, or polyoxyalkylenes (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene); aminated polysiloxanes; polys
- non-volatile silicones may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
- the cosmetic composition may be free, or substantially free, of certain materials.
- the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of UVA and/or UVB-absorbing components (UV filters), polyamides, acrylic polymers, hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles, cellulose or ethylcellulose- based polymer particles, or a combination thereof.
- the disclosed combination of PHA and polysiloxane elastomer provides the functionality currently provided by, e.g., Nylon 12 or PMMA, and thus, in preferred embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of Nylons (such as Nylon 12) and PMMA.
- the composition can be applied to lips in order to provide a matte color or mattifying effect to the lips.
- Example 1
- a first comparative example (Cl) used nylon 12, while the other formulations used various PHAs.
- Two comparative examples are shown (Cl, C2) and three exemplary formulations (E1-E3).
- the pigments are grinded with a mixture of the non-volatile silicone oils, fillers, and fatty esters to great a pigment grind.
- the pigment grind and waxes are then placed in a kettle and heated up to 95 ° C and mixed until homogenous. Once homogenous, the crosspolymers and the rest of the powders and antioxidants/fragrance are added and mixed until homogenous.
- the hot formulations are poured into lipstick molds and cooled to room temperature before transferring to a chilled environment and then placed in lipstick packs.
- the exemplary compositions provide a matte finish, good glide smoothness, and good dispersion, as compared to the comparative formulations.
- replacing the PHAs with other particulates e.g., amorphous silica, see C2
- Example 2 Formulations were also created to compare pigment grinds and PHAs alone versus the pigment grinds and PHAs in combination with the polysiloxane elastomer. For example, samples were created using various pigments and PHB alone, as well as samples using those pigments and PHB combined with Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu). Each sample was then evaluated via a drawdown test where a small sample is placed at the top end of a Hegman gauge and then drawn down with a flat edge along the grooves. The drawdown of the pigment grind with PHB alone began streaking at approximately
- the silicone elastomer in combination with the PHAs, improves the dispersion of particulates, such as pigments and fillers, in formulations.
- the disclosed combination improves dispersion in formulations that are not inherently free- flowing, such as in pasty, waxy, or solid cosmetic compositions.
Abstract
Anhydrous cosmetic compositions that provide improved dispersion of pigments and fillers, and solids spreading, as well as providing a matte color or mattifying effect. The anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprise a polyhydroxyalkanoate; a polysiloxane elastomer; and a filler, a pigment, or both.
Description
COSMETIC COMPOSITION
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
The present application claims priority to U.S. Patent Application No. 17/387,420 filed July 28, 2021, and French Patent Application No 2109087 filed on July 31, 2021, the entirety of which are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety.
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions, and specifically to cosmetic lip compositions utilizing polyhydroxy alkanoates and silicone elastomers to provide improved pigment and filler dispersion and spreading.
BACKGROUND
Many cosmetic products, and particularly lipsticks, are designed to allow a user to apply a colorant or pigment to lips, skin, etc. while maintaining a good level of skin feel and comfort of wearing the cosmetic product. Often, cosmetic chemists must balance tradeoffs in properties of such products, such as between dispersibility and viscosity or moldability as well as good mechanical properties. A solid lipstick may be moldable, into which the powders and colorants are not easily dispersible, while a liquid lip product containing the same may be far more dispersible, but not moldable. Such tradeoffs lead to inferior products.
Thus, the ability to improve the dispersion pigments and fillers, and to improve solid spreading, in cosmetics, even in solid, waxy, or pasty cosmetic products, is therefore useful and desirable while maintaining a good level of glide, skin feel and comfort.
BRIEF SUMMARY
Disclosed is an anhydrous cosmetic composition that provides improved pigment and filler powders dispersion and spreading, including when formulated as a solid, waxy, or pasty cosmetic product (e.g., a traditional lipstick).
The disclosed anhydrous composition generally requires three components: (i) a polyhydroxyalkanoate; (ii) a polysiloxane elastomer; and (iii) a filler, a pigment, or both. Advantageously, the disclosed composition is in the form of a solid lipstick.
The polyhydroxyalkanoate(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of, e.g., between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition. Advantageously, the polyhydroxyalkanoate
comprises (i) a polyhydroxybutyrate, (ii) polyhydroxy pentanoate (ii) poly [(R)-3- hydroxyhexanoate] (PHHx), (iv) a crosspolymer comprising monomers from hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoate acid, and/or hydroxyhexanoate, or (v) a combination thereof or derivatives thereof.
The polysiloxane elastomer may be present in an amount of, e.g., between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition. Advantageously, the polysiloxane elastomer consists of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin (such as a silsesquioxane resin).
The cosmetic composition may optionally be free or substantially free of some materials, or classes of materials. For example, advantageously, the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of UV filters, polyamides, acrylic polymers, hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles, and/or cellulose or ethylcellulose-based polymer particles.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition also includes a silicone crosspolymer in amount of between, e.g., 5% and 30% by weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition also includes a wax and a hydrocarbon oil.
Advantageously, the cosmetic composition may consist, or consist essentially of: the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment; and optionally a filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, an additional polymer, a fatty ester, a non-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof.
Also disclosed is a method for providing matte color or effect to lips, by first providing an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polyhydroxyalkanoate; a polysiloxane elastomer; and a pigment, filler, or both, and then applying the anyhydrous cosmetic composition to lips.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
As used herein, articles such as “a” and “an” when used in a claim, are understood to mean one or more of what is claimed or described.
As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
All percentages listed are by weight unless otherwise noted.
As used herein, the term “about [a number]” is intended to include values rounded to the appropriate significant digit. Thus, “about 1” would be intended to include values between 0.5 and 1.5, whereas “about 1.0” would be intended to include values between 0.95 and 1.05.
As used herein, the terms “include”, “includes” and “including” are meant to be non- limiting.
As used herein, the term “substantially free [of an ingredient]” means that the composition contains less than 1% of the identified ingredient. The term “free [of an ingredient]” means the composition contains less than 0.1% of the identified ingredient.
As used herein, “substituted” means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents for substitution include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalky groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
For purposes of the compositions and methods of the present disclosure where the claimed invention “consists essentially of’ the identified ingredients and/or process steps, the “basic and novel properties” of such compositions and/or methods are “improved dispersion of pigments and/or fillers”, “improved solid spreading”, and “providing a matte or mattifying finish.”
Disclosed is an anhydrous composition that generally requires at least three components: (i) a polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA); (ii) a polysiloxane elastomer; and (iii) a filler, a pigment, or both. The composition may comprise any form, although preferably the composition is in the form of a solid, waxy, or pasty cosmetic product, such as a solid, moldable lipstick.
PHA
The cosmetic composition generally includes at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA). PHAs are known to be biodegradable and can be produced via, e.g., environmentally friendly fermentation processes.
Surprisingly, PHAs can substitute for more traditional polymer powders (such as PMMA or Nylon) in various bases to provide equivalent viscosity modification, mattifying effects, and sebum transfer resistance.
The polyhydroxyalkanoates drive the improvements in volume and removability and are biodegradable. As is known in the art, PHAs are a sub-family of polyesters, which can be made with hydroxyl carboxylic acid monomers where the various monomers have one or more carbon chain lengths. Surprisingly, not all polyhydroxyalkanoates can perform adequately in the disclosed compositions.
Here, the monomers of the polyhydroxyalkanoate should be in the form of a powder. This will preferably involve PHAs comprised of at least one monomer that has a carbon chain length of between 3 and 6 and more specifically between 4 and 6. Preferred PHAs utilize short chain length monomers, and are based on carboxylic acids having 3 carbons (propionic or propanoic acid), 4 carbons (butyric or butanoic acid), 5 carbons (valeric or pentanoic acid), or 6 carbons (caproic or hexanoic acid).
Non-limiting examples of monomers that can form the PHAs may generally have the
some embodiments, only a single monomer is present. In other embodiments, different monomers are utilized; in some embodiments, one monomer has n=4 and at least one other monomer has n=l, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6.
Polyhydroxybutyrate (PHB or PH3B). Polyhydroxybutyrate is a polymer of 3 hydroxybutyric acid, and conforms to the formula represented by the structure shown below:
This is also known as: Butanoic acid, 3-hydroxy-, (3R)-, homopolymer, and is, available commercially as, e.g., PHB from Metabolix or TianAn Biopolymer or Eckart or MicroPowders
Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer (PHB-PHV copolymer). Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer is the copolymer that conforms generally to the structure shown below.
This is also known as: Pentanoic acid, 3-hydroxy-, (3R)-, polymer with (3R)-3- hydroxybutanoic acid, and has an INCI name of Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic copolymer.
Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxy valerate) (PHBV). Poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co- 3-hydroxyvalerate) is the copolymer of hydroxybutyric acid and hydroxypentanoic acid that conforms generally to the structure below:
Various suitable PHAs can be obtained from Eckart (a member of the Altana group), Tianan Enmat or MicroPowders.
Other non-limiting examples of suitable polyhydroxyalkanoates include poly-3- hydroxyproprionate (P3HP), poly-3 -hydroxy valerate (PHV), and poly-4-hydroxybutyrate (P4HB).
In some embodiments, the chain length of the monomeric constituents of the PHA may have a chain length between 1 and 6 carbons. In preferred embodiments, the PHA has a chain length between 4 and 6 carbons, such as between 3 and 5 carbons, such as between 4 and 5 carbons, or such as 4 carbons. In some embodiments, the PHA has a chain length between 4 and 6 carbons. All ranges are inclusive of endpoints.
In certain embodiments, the PHA is poly-3-hydroxybutyrate (PHB), poly-3- hydroxyvalerate (PHV), poly [(R)-3-hydroxypentanoate] (PHHP), poly [(R)-3- hydroxyhexanoate] (PHHx), poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBV), poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyexanoate) (PHBH), poly (3-hydroxybutyrate-co-4- hydroxybutyrate), poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyvalerate-co-4-hydroxyvalerate) (PHBW), or a combination thereof.
The PHA may be a crosspolymer comprising monomers from hydroxybutyric acid, hydroxypentanoic acid, and/or hydroxy hexanoic acid.
The PHA may be a part of a copolymer, or the copolymer may be derived from two or more PHAs.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises only a single PHA. In other embodiments, the composition comprises a plurality of PHAs.
Preferably, the PHA is PHB, such as PHB available from Micropowders sold under the trade name BIOSOFT 915. The PHA can also be a Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer sold under the trade name Ecofil B110 from Eckart America or 3-
Hydroxybutyrate / 3-Hydroxyhexanoate copolymer sold under the trade name Techpolymer EFA-20X from Sekisui Plastics Co. and PHB particles from Tianan from the ENMAT™ brand.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 0.01% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 0.1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 0.5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is > 2% by weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is < 50% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is < 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is < 15% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is < 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is < 5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of PHA present in the composition is < 3% by weight of the composition.
In preferred embodiments, the total amount of PHA present (XPHA) in the composition is 0.1% < XPHA < 30% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% < XPHA < 8%. In still more preferred embodiments, 1% < XPHA < 5%.
In the context of the present disclosure and of the appended claims, by "average particle diameter" it is meant particularly according, unless otherwise indicated, the diameter d50 (median value), that is, the value of the diameter below which 50% by weight of the particle population is found (see "A Guidebook to Particle Size Analysis "published by Horiba Instruments Inc. 2016, available at www.horiba.com/fileadmin/uploads/Scientific/eMag/PSA/Guidebook/pdf/PSA_Guidebook.p dl). It can be determined by laser diffraction technique, according to the ISO 13320:2008 standard or determined with TEM Transmission Electron Microscopy.
In certain embodiments, the PHA is in the form of particles having an average diameter (d50) less than 100 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is less than 50 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is less than 30 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is less than 20 pm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 0. 1 nm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 1 nm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 100 nm. In certain embodiments, the d50 is greater than 1 pm. In preferred embodiments, the d50 is between 0.1
nm and 50 mih, and more preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm. In some embodiments, the d50 is between 8 pm and 12 pm. In a preferred embodiment, the d50 is 10 pm.
In certain embodiments, the PHA is selected to have an oil absorption of between 60 to 150 grams of one or more desired oils per 100 grams of PHA. In certain embodiments, the desired one or more oils is natural or synthetic sebum. In certain embodiments, the desired one or more oils is a cosmetic oil present in the composition, such as a silicone, an ester, a fragrance, or an antioxidant.
Polysiloxane Elastomer
The cosmetic composition also contains a polysiloxane elastomer, preferably in the form of a polysiloxane particle.
In preferred embodiments, the polysiloxane elastomer is a spherical elastomer, and preferably a non-emulsifying elastomer. In more preferred embodiments, the spherical non emulsifying elastomer silicone is provided as an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, and particularly a silsesquioxane resin coating. An example of such a spherical non-emulsifying elastomer silicone is Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silseqsquioxane Crosspolymer, available commercially from Shin-Etsu, including, e.g., KSP- 100 (5 pm average diameter particles), KSP-101 (12 pm average diameter particles), KSP-102 (30 pm average diameter particles), and KSP-105 (2 pm average diameter particles).
In some embodiments, additional polysiloxane elastomers are utilized.
In some embodiments, the additional polysiloxane elastomer comprises, e.g., polydimethylsiloxane, particularly crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane.
In some embodiments, the additional polysiloxane elastomer comprises, e.g., non- spherical elastomer particles in a gel form, such as a silicone elastomer may be chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name) or Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), dispersed in a linear silicone or cyclic oil. Mention may be made especially of the compounds having the following INCI names: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as USG-105® and USG-107A® from the company Shin-Etsu; DC9506® and DC9701® from the company Dow Coming; dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from the company Shin-Etsu; dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane, such as KSG-15®; cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9040®, DC9045® and DC5930® from the company Dow Coming; dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, such as DC9041® from the company Dow Coming dimethicone (and) dimethicone
crosspolymer, such as Dow Coming EL-9240® Silicone Elastomer Blend from the company Dow Coming (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)); and C4-24 alkyl dimethicone/divinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA® from the company Alzo.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 0.01% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 0.1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 0.5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is < 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is < 5% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is < 4% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is < 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present in the composition is or < 2% by weight of the composition.
In preferred embodiments, the total amount of polysiloxane elastomer present (XPSE) in the composition is 0.1% < XPSE < 8% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% < XPSE < 5% by weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the total amount of spherical non-emulsifying polysiloxane elastomer present (XSNEPSE) in the composition is 0.1% < XSNEPSE < 8% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% < XSNEPSE < 5%.
In some embodiments, the total amount of spherical non-emulsifying polysiloxane elastomer present (XSNEPSE) in the composition is 1% < XSNEPSE < 5%. In some embodiments, the total amount of additional polysiloxane elastomer is between 1% and 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of additional polysiloxane elastomer is between 10% and 30% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the total amount of additional polysiloxane elastomer is between 20% and 30% by weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition also contains a pigment, a filler, or both.
Pigment
The cosmetic compositions may contain at least one cosmetically acceptable pigment. Examples of suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic
pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. A pigment should be understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Said pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the present disclosure but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present disclosure include those selected from the group consisting of rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, coded in the Color Index under the reference Cl 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under references Cl 77,499, 77, 492 and, 77,491; manganese violet (Cl 77,742); ultramarine blue (Cl 77,007); chromium oxide (Cl 77,288); chromium hydrate (Cl 77,289); and ferric blue (Cl 77,510) and mixtures thereof.
Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (Cl 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (Cl 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (Cl 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (Cl 15,510), D&C Orange No. (Cl 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (Cl 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (Cl 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (Cl 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (Cl 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (Cl 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (Cl 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (Cl 45,425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (Cl 15,985), D&C Red No. 30 (Cl 73,360), D&C Red No. 3 (Cl 45,430) and the dye or lakes based on cochineal carmine (Cl 75,570) and mixtures thereof.
Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present disclosure include those selected from the group consisting of the white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.
The precise amount and type of pigment employed in embodiments of the disclosed compositions will depend on the color, intensity and use of the cosmetic composition and, as a result, will be determined by those skilled in the art of cosmetic formulation.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 0.1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 5% by weight
of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is > 10% by weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is < 40% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is < 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is < 25% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is < 20% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of pigment present in the composition is < 15% by weight of the composition.
In preferred embodiments, the total amount of pigment present (XPIGMENT) in the composition is 1% < XPIGMENT < 30% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 5% < XPIGMENT < 25% by weight of the composition.
Filler
The cosmetic composition according to the present disclosure may further comprise at least one filler.
As used herein, the term “filler” should be understood as meaning colorless natural or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. Thus, the filler is different from the pigment described above.
The fillers may be inorganic or organic and of any shape (for instance, platelet, spherical, and oblong shapes) and with any crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Examples of suitable additional fillers include, but are not limited to, talc; mica; silica; kaolin; powders of polyamide such as Nylon®; roIn-b-3- alanine powders; polyethylene powders; polyurethane powders, such as the powder formed of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400 by Toshiki; the powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®); lauroyllysine; starch; boron nitride; polymeric hollow microspheres, such as microspheres of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), and microspheres of acrylic acid copolymers; silicone resin powders, for example, silsesquioxane powders (for instance, silicone resin powders disclosed in European Patent No. 0 293 795 and Tospearls® from Toshiba); poly(methyl methacrylate) particles; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate; basic magnesium carbonate; hydroxyapatite; hollow silica microspheres; glass microcapsules; ceramic microcapsules; metal soaps derived from
organic carboxylic acids comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium myristate; barium sulphate; and mixtures thereof.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 0.1%,
> 1% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 3% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 5%, by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is > 8% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is
> 10% by weight of the composition.
In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 80% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 70% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 60% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 50% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is
< 40% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 30% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 25% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 20% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is
< 15% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 10% by weight of the composition. In certain embodiments, the total amount of filler present in the composition is < 5% by weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the total amount of filler present (XFILLER) in the composition is 1% < XFTT J BR < 25% by weight of the composition. In preferred embodiments, 1% < XFILLER < 15% by weight of the composition. In more preferred embodiments, 1% < XFILLER < 5%. In another preferred embodiments, 5% < XFILLER < 10% by weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anhydrous cosmetic composition may consist or consist essentially of: (1) the polyhydroxyalkanoate; (2) the polysiloxane elastomer; (3) the pigment; and (4) optionally (a) the filler, (b) an antioxidant, (c) a fragrance, (d) a non-pigment colorant (such as an oil-soluble dye) , (e) a wax, (1) a hydrocarbon, (g) an additional polymer, (h) a fatty ester, (i) a non-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof. For example, in some embodiments, the cosmetic
composition further comprises a silicone crosspolymer. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition further comprises a wax and a hydrocarbon oil. In still other embodiments, the cosmetic composition comprises a silicone crosspolymer, a wax, and a hydrocarbon oil.
In some embodiments, the anhydrous cosmetic composition consists or consists essentially of the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment, and optionally the filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, anon-pigment colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, an additional polymer, a fatty ester, anon-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof. In another example, no additional polymer is present, and the composition consists or consists essentially of the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment, the filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a non-pigment colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, a fatty ester, and a non volatile silicone. In other embodiments, no additional polymer or non-pigment colorant is present, and the composition consists or consists essentially of the polyhydroxyalkanoate, the polysiloxane elastomer, the pigment, the filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a wax, a hydrocarbon, a fatty ester, and a non-volatile silicone.
Wax
“Wax” as used herein means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25° C.), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30° C., which may be up to 200° C., and in particular up to 120° C., including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Preferred waxes are those having a melting point of greater than or equal to 45° C. and in particular greater than or equal to 55° C.
Preferred waxes are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral and/or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the waxes are hydrocarbon-based or silicone waxes “Hydrocarbon-based wax” means a wax formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain groups such as, for example, alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. “Silicone wax” means compounds comprising at least one silicon atom, preferably comprising Si — O groups.
In some embodiments, the wax comprises a polar wax.
In some embodiments, the polar wax is hydrocarbon-based. Suitable hydrocarbon- based waxes include, for example, beeswax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, shellac wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, laurel wax and olive wax.
In some embodiments, the polar wax is an ester wax. “Ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function or group. Examples of ester waxes include: i) the waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting point ranges from about 25 to about 120° C., such as for example C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)-stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40-alkyl stearate, Specific examples of such waxes are sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®. or Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen. Other specific examples include esters of polyethylene glycol and of montanic acid (octacosanoic acid), such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant. ii) bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene, iii) waxes of diesters of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3 — ( — OCO — R4 — COO — R.5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C.30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and is preferably linear and unsaturated, iv) waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, and v) hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil.
In some embodiments, the polar wax is an oil-soluble polar modified polymer. “Polar modified polymer” as used herein refers to a hydrophobic homopolymer or copolymer which has been modified with hydrophilic unit(s). “Oil-soluble” as used herein means that the polar modified polymer is soluble in oil, and may be, e.g., a high carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer, or a low carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer.
“High carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer” means a polymer containing more than 20 carbon atoms. Suitable monomers for the hydrophobic homopolymers and/or copolymers include, but are not limited to, cyclic, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C22-C40 compounds such as, C22-C28 compounds, C24-C26 compounds, C26- C28 compounds, and C30-C38 compounds, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Preferably, the monomers are C24-26 compounds, C26-C28 compounds or C30-C38 compounds.
“Low carbon oil-soluble polar modified polymer” means a polymer containing 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Suitable monomers for the hydrophobic homopolymers and/or copolymers include, but are not limited to, cyclic, linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted, C2-C20 compounds such as, for example, styrene, ethylene, propylene, isopropylene, butylene, isobutylene, pentene, isopentene, isoprene, hexene, isohexene, decene, isodecene, and octadecene, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. Preferably, the monomers are C2-C8 compounds, more preferably C2-C6 compounds, and most preferably C2-C4 compounds such as ethylene, propylene and butylene.
Suitable hydrophilic unit(s) for polar modified polymers include, but are not limited to, maleic anhydride, acrylates, alkyl acrylates such as, for example, methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, and butyl acrylate, and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
In some embodiments, the oil-soluble high carbon polar modified polymer waxes can be used, including, e.g., C26-C28 alpha olefin maleic acid anhydride copolymer waxes commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE. Specific examples of such waxes include products marketed by Clariant under the LicoCare name having designations such as CM 401, which is a maleic anhydride modified wax having a Mw of 2025 and a crystallinity of 11%, C30-C38 olefm/isopropylmaleate/maleic anhydride copolymer sold by Baker Hughes under the name Performa® V 1608, and C24-C26 alpha olefin acrylate copolymer wax commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE CA301 LP3346 based on a polar backbone with C24-26 side chains with alternating ester and carboxylic acid groups.
In some embodiments, C2-C3 polar modified waxes can be used, including, e.g., polypropylene and/or polyethylene-maleic anhydride modified waxes (“PEMA,” “PPMA.” “PEPPMA”) commercially available from Clariant under the trade name LICOCARE or LICOCENE, Specific examples of such waxes include products marketed by Clariant under the LicoCare name having designations such as PP207. Other suitable polar modified polymers include, but are not limited to A-C 573 A (ETHYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Drop Point, Mettler : 106° C.) from Honeywell, A-C 596 A (PROPYLENE- MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Drop Point, Mettler : 143° C.) from Honey well, A- C 597 (PROPYLENE-MALEIC ANHYDRIDE COPOLYMER; Drop Point, Mettler : 141° C.) from Honeywell, ZeMac® copolymers (from VERTELLUS) which are 1:1 copolymers of ethylene and maleic anhydride, polyisobutylene-maleic anhydride sold under the trade name
ISOBAM (from Kuraray), polyisoprene-graft-maleic anhydride sold by Sigma Aldrich, poly(maleic anhydride-octadecene) sold by Chevron Philips Chemical Co., poly (ethylene-co- butyl acrylate-co-maleic anhydride) sold under the trade name of Lotader (e.g. 2210, 3210, 4210, and 3410 grades) by Arkema, copolymers in which the butyl acrylate is replaced by other alkyl acrylates (including methyl acrylate [grades 3430, 4404, and 4503] and ethyl acrylate [grades 6200, 8200, 3300, TX 8030, 7500, 5500, 4700, and 4720) also sold by Arkema under the Lotader name, and isobutylene maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name ACO- 5013 by ISP.
In some embodiments, the wax is an alcohol wax. “Alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e., comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. When alcohol waxes are used, preferably, the at least one long-chain alcohol wax has an average carbon chain length of between about 20 and about 60 carbon atoms, most preferably between about 30 and about 50 carbon atoms. Suitable examples of long-chain alcohol waxes include but are not limited to alcohol waxes commercially available from Baker Hughes under the Performacol trade name such as, for example, Performacol 350 (INCI Name: C20-C40 alcohols), 425 (INCI Name: C20-C40 alcohols) and 550 (INCI Name: C30-050 alcohols). Most preferably, the long-chain alcohol wax has a melting temperature range from about 93° C. to about 105° C. Another example of a commercial product comprising a suitable alcohol wax is Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.
In some embodiments, the wax is an apolar wax. Apolar waxes are, in particular, hydrocarbon-based waxes formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O and P. In particular, the term “apolar wax” means a wax that is formed exclusively from apolar wax and not from a mixture also comprising other types of waxes that are not apolar waxes.
Examples of apolar waxes include hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes. Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies. An ozokerite that may be mentioned is Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. Examples of microcrystalline waxes include Multi wax W 445® sold by the company Sonnebom and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt. Examples of microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the disclosure as apolar waxes include polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L®, and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
If present, waxes may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
In some preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition uses a low level of waxes in the composition, where the total amount of wax is < 6.5% by weight of the composition. In these embodiments, the wax is present in an amount between 3% and 6.5% by weight of the composition.
Hydrocarbons
The cosmetic composition may also comprise a hydrocarbon.
In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon is a hydrocarbon oil. In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon oil is a volatile hydrocarbon oil having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar or Permethyl, the C8 to Cl 6 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate and their mixtures.
In some embodiments, the hydrocarbon may be a volatile hydrocarbon oil.
In some embodiments, the hydrocarbons comprise or consist of aliphatic hydrocarbons. Aliphatic hydrocarbons include, e.g., vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, polydecenes, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof. Examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, can also include linear, branched, or cyclic C6-C16 lower alkanes, including hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
If present, hydrocarbons may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Additional Polymer
The cosmetic composition may also include an additional cosmetically-acceptable polymer. This may be, e.g., thermoplastic elastomers such as Styrenic block copolymers (TPE-s), Thermoplastic olefins (TPE-o), Elastomeric alloys (TPE-v or TPV), Thermoplastic polyurethanes (TPU), Thermoplastic copolyester, Thermoplastic polyamides, Santoprene (ExxonMobil), Termoton (Termopol Polimer), Amitel (DSM), Solprene (Dynasol), Engage (Dow Chemical), Hytrel (DuPont), Dryflex and Mediprene (ELASTO), Kraton (Kraton
Polymers), Pibiflex, Forprene, Termoton-v, Sofprene (SBS) and Larprene (SEBS). In some embodiments, the polymer is a polymer based on starch, gum, and/or cellulose.
If present, fatty esters may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, and preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Fatty Ester
The cosmetic composition may also include a fatty ester. The term “fatty ester” includes esters derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol. This may include a linear (unbranched) fatty ester, such as cetyl palmitate, as well as a branched fatty ester, such as ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, etc.
In some embodiments, the fatty ester comprises an aromatic ester such as tridecyl trimellitate.
In some embodiments, the fatty ester comprises esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (INCI name) sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Cremer Oleo,
If present, fatty esters may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
Non-Volatile Silicones
The cosmetic composition may also comprise a non-volatile silicone. Mention is made, as example of non-volatile silicone oils, of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups or alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups at the end of the silicone chain, which groups have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as those of the phenyl trimethicone type, those of the phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate type or those of the trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane type; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, in particular C8-C20 fatty acids, fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C20 fatty alcohols, or polyoxyalkylenes (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene); aminated polysiloxanes; polysiloxanes comprising a hydroxyl group; and their mixtures.
If present, non-volatile silicones may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably from about 1% to about 40%, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween. In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be free, or substantially free, of certain materials. For example, in some embodiments, the cosmetic composition may be free or substantially free of UVA and/or UVB-absorbing components (UV filters), polyamides, acrylic polymers, hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles, cellulose or ethylcellulose- based polymer particles, or a combination thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the disclosed combination of PHA and polysiloxane elastomer provides the functionality currently provided by, e.g., Nylon 12 or PMMA, and thus, in preferred embodiments, the composition is free or substantially free of Nylons (such as Nylon 12) and PMMA.
Once the composition is provided, the composition can be applied to lips in order to provide a matte color or mattifying effect to the lips. Example 1
Several lipstick compositions were created, as described in Table 1, below. A first comparative example (Cl) used nylon 12, while the other formulations used various PHAs. Two comparative examples are shown (Cl, C2) and three exemplary formulations (E1-E3). To produce each formulation, the pigments are grinded with a mixture of the non-volatile silicone oils, fillers, and fatty esters to great a pigment grind. The pigment grind and waxes are then placed in a kettle and heated up to 95°C and mixed until homogenous. Once homogenous, the crosspolymers and the rest of the powders and antioxidants/fragrance are added and mixed until homogenous. Once completed, the hot formulations are poured into lipstick molds and cooled to room temperature before transferring to a chilled environment and then placed in lipstick packs.
Evaluations
The various lip products were evaluated for, finish (shiny or matte), glide smoothness, dispersion, and feel. Table 2
As seen in the table above, the exemplary compositions provide a matte finish, good glide smoothness, and good dispersion, as compared to the comparative formulations. Of particular note, replacing the PHAs with other particulates (e.g., amorphous silica, see C2) resulted in small, undispersed globs appearing after application.
Further, it is noted that when replacing the PHAs with hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles and using dimethicone (PDMS) as opposed to the two listed crosspolymers, resulted in shiny (as opposed to matte) finish, and poor dispersion of the pigments and fillers. Example 2 Formulations were also created to compare pigment grinds and PHAs alone versus the pigment grinds and PHAs in combination with the polysiloxane elastomer. For example, samples were created using various pigments and PHB alone, as well as samples using those
pigments and PHB combined with Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer (KSP-100, Shin-Etsu). Each sample was then evaluated via a drawdown test where a small sample is placed at the top end of a Hegman gauge and then drawn down with a flat edge along the grooves. The drawdown of the pigment grind with PHB alone began streaking at approximately
25 pm, and heavy streaking was seen at 20 pm and below. When the KSP-100 was added, streaking did not begin until approximately 20 pm, with only 3-4 streaks in total.
Thus, it is clear that the silicone elastomer, in combination with the PHAs, improves the dispersion of particulates, such as pigments and fillers, in formulations. In particular, the disclosed combination improves dispersion in formulations that are not inherently free- flowing, such as in pasty, waxy, or solid cosmetic compositions.
Example 3
Those skilled in the art will recognize or be able to ascertain using no more than routine experimentation many equivalents to the specific embodiments of the disclosure described herein. Such equivalents are intended to be encompassed by the following claims.
Claims
1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition, comprising: a polyhydroxy alkanoate; a polysiloxane elastomer; and a filler, a pigment, or both.
2. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysiloxane elastomer consists of an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin.
3. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the silicone resin is a silsesquioxane resin.
4. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the polyhydroxyalkanoate comprises (i) a polyhydroxybutyrate, (ii) poly [(R)-3- hydroxypentanoate] (PHHP), (iii) poly [(R)-3-hydroxyheaxanoate] (PHHx), (iv) a crosspolymer comprising monomers from hydroxybutyric acid and/or hydroxyhexanoic acid, or (v) a combination thereof.
5. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the polyhydroxyalkanoate is present in an amount of between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition.
6. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein polysiloxane elastomer is present in an amount of between 1% and 5% by weight of the composition.
7. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 6, further comprising a silicone crosspolymer in amount of between 5% and 30% by weight of the composition.
8. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 7, further comprising a wax in an amount of between 3% and 6.5% by weight of the composition.
9. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyhydroxyalkanoate has a particle diameter (d50) of 8 pm to 12 pm.
10. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is a solid lipstick.
11. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising a wax and a hydrocarbon oil.
12. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising an antioxidant, a fragrance, a colorant, a wax, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, an additional polymer, a fatty ester, a non-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof.
13. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein: the cosmetic composition is substantially free of UV filters; the cosmetic composition is substantially free of hydrophilic synthetic amorphous silica particles; the cosmetic composition is substantially free of polyamides; the cosmetic composition is substantially free of acrylic polymers; the cosmetic composition is substantially free of cellulose or ethylcellulose-based polymer particles; or a combination thereof.
14. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anhydrous cosmetic composition consists essentially of: the polyhydroxyalkanoate; the polysiloxane elastomer; the pigment; and optionally a filler, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a colorant, a wax, a hydrocarbon, an additional polymer, a fatty ester, a non-volatile silicone, or a combination thereof.
15. A method for providing matte color or effect to lips, comprising: providing an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a polyhydroxyalkanoate; a polysiloxane elastomer; and a pigment, filler, or both; and
applying the anyhydrous cosmetic composition to lips.
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US17/387,420 US20230050835A1 (en) | 2021-07-28 | 2021-07-28 | Cosmetic composition |
US17/387,420 | 2021-07-28 | ||
FRFR2109087 | 2021-07-31 | ||
FR2109087A FR3126313B1 (en) | 2021-08-31 | 2021-08-31 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION |
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