WO2010061027A1 - Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento. - Google Patents
Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento. Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2010061027A1 WO2010061027A1 PCT/ES2009/070525 ES2009070525W WO2010061027A1 WO 2010061027 A1 WO2010061027 A1 WO 2010061027A1 ES 2009070525 W ES2009070525 W ES 2009070525W WO 2010061027 A1 WO2010061027 A1 WO 2010061027A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- stones
- stone
- jewel
- metal
- recess
- Prior art date
Links
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 19
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 239000010953 base metal Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000010437 gem Substances 0.000 claims description 17
- 229910001751 gemstone Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000002093 peripheral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000003466 welding Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910001111 Fine metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010970 precious metal Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 6
- PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N gold Chemical compound [Au] PCHJSUWPFVWCPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000010931 gold Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052737 gold Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000000078 claw Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000000295 complement effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005323 electroforming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002708 enhancing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011888 foil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004927 fusion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000155 melt Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005498 polishing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005201 scrubbing Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C17/00—Gems or the like
- A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
- A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
- A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for setting jewels, that is to fix the stone in a hole or recess existing in the metal of which the piece is made, which internally presents the approximate shape and dimensions of stones to receive in it and a peripheral surface of support in which the stones deposited in the referred housings settle, in position of definitive assembly.
- Chatotes and muzzles are hollow metal circuits closed by their faces; Chatotes are smaller than socks.
- the rails are elongated, continuous or discontinuous gaps, in which the stones
- a groove is made in the inner part of the hole by means of a burr or buril, parallel to its outer edge.
- the stone is set in the said pressure hole or slightly deforming the upper surface of the groove made to slightly reduce the inside diameter of the hole so that the stone is trapped in it, by chiseling, stabbing, or also making grains or star peaks on the upper side of the metal, using a buril or other suitable tool.
- the fixing of stones in a rail can also be done by pressing the sides of the rail, or by squeezing one side while hitting the opposite until they are secured. Also often it used a method of crimping called neat, consisting of scrubbing the workpiece with a burr, making fine cuts and polishing with the tool to form 'a metal surface which is above the stone at the periphery which hold in definitive position.
- Document FR-2476459 describes an industrial process for manufacturing jewelry, nowadays conventional, comprising the following operations: first, the jewel base is made from the precious material, for example, a ring; second, a cylindrical bore of suitable dimensions is made on said base, by
- REPLACEMENT SHEET (Rule 26) a drill bit; third, by means of an offset reamer, the contour of said cylindrical bore is made of a crimping throat, the dimensions of which must be adapted to those of the stone, and finally, the stone is placed in the throat of the crimping and held by interlocking.
- Document ES-U0205316 describes a setting that has a base bar, in which a plurality of contiguous holes of conical openings have been made, and along a side of its upper surface, receives a thread of suitable section, on whose inner side an angular and longitudinal groove has been made, so that the stones fit into those holes, while their lateral edges or vertices are introduced into the angular groove, completing the fastening by means of the axial arrangement, on the side opposite of the bar, of a plurality of vertical threads or claws, which are knocked down and tightened on the stones, ensuring its assembly and enhancing it by the fact that the base bars can adopt any necessary drawing or drawing.
- Document W9815202 describes a method of crimping stones on the surface of a jewel made by electroforming, in which a base is made that externally presents the shapes and dimensions with a thickness close to that of the gold layer that forms the wall of The jewel that must be obtained and provided with stone reception housings, is deposited in the base before the placement of the stones, a protective layer, and then a thin layer of gold, the stones are placed in said housings, deposit a second layer of
- REPLACEMENT SHEET (Regia 28) gold, thicker, and finally said base and said protective layer are removed or removed.
- the process of crimping jewels of the invention provides for the setting of the stones by means of threads or fine metal sheets of the same material as the jewel, which are welded on the sides of the recess in which the stone is set and above it so that it is firmly attached and imperceptibly.
- These stone fastening threads are optionally welded all along and wide or interrupted at specific points, they can also be welded at the corners of the recess or hole in which the stone is inserted. When it is a composition in a rail, they can also be welded between two attached stones from side to side of the hole, in this case forming a separating element between the stones placed in said rail.
- the welding is carried out by laser beam, since it is a fusion welding process that, by using the energy provided by a laser beam to melt and recrystallize the material or materials to be joined, does not require external material input, more than the melt, which gives a very fine and homogeneous finish.
- Figure 1 shows a perspective view of a jewel made with the process of the invention.
- the jewel made by this innovative crimping procedure is made of precious metals (1) and stones (2) set in an existing housing (12) or practiced in the base metal (1), which internally presents the approximate shape and dimensions of the stones to be received in é ⁇ and a peripheral surface (11) on which the stones deposited in the aforementioned housings rest and rest in the final assembly position.
- the sides of said recess (12) are framed by a wire or metallic foil (2), which has been welded through all or part of the periphery of said recess (12) and which constitutes the mechanical means. of retention of the stone or stones (2), which are thus set in the metal (1) of the jewel.
Landscapes
- Adornments (AREA)
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP09828672.7A EP2389827A4 (de) | 2008-11-25 | 2009-11-24 | Schmuckherstellungsverfahren und resultierendes schmuckelement |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| ESP200803350 | 2008-11-25 | ||
| ES200803350A ES2328780B2 (es) | 2008-11-25 | 2008-11-25 | Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento. |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2010061027A1 true WO2010061027A1 (es) | 2010-06-03 |
Family
ID=41258517
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/ES2009/070525 WO2010061027A1 (es) | 2008-11-25 | 2009-11-24 | Procedimiento de engaste de joyas y joya obtenida con dicho procedimiento. |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP2389827A4 (de) |
| ES (1) | ES2328780B2 (de) |
| WO (1) | WO2010061027A1 (de) |
Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102008160A (zh) * | 2010-06-18 | 2011-04-13 | 林惠锋 | 钻石组合 |
| WO2017092760A1 (en) * | 2015-12-03 | 2017-06-08 | Pandora A/S | A method for manufacture of a piece of jewellery and a piece of jewellery |
| IT201900024766A1 (it) * | 2019-12-19 | 2021-06-19 | Desire S R L | Monile e procedimento di montaggio di pietre taglio baguette per la realizzazione dello stesso |
Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB1218540A (en) * | 1968-09-19 | 1971-01-06 | Achim Schilling | Gem settings |
| ES205316U (es) | 1974-08-14 | 1976-02-01 | Marco Roca Ernesto | Engaste perfeccionado para joyas. |
| FR2476459A1 (fr) | 1980-02-25 | 1981-08-28 | Diamant Applic | Procede industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de preference en metal precieux, comportant des pierres serties |
| ES8200219A1 (es) * | 1979-09-17 | 1981-11-01 | Vitau Jean | Procedimiento para montar piedras preciosas o similares y montura de piedras preciosas o similares para la aplicacion del procedimiento |
| FR2488496A1 (fr) * | 1980-08-12 | 1982-02-19 | Chirol Francis | Monture pour pierres precieuses ou analogues et son procede de fabrication |
| EP0276184A1 (de) * | 1987-01-19 | 1988-07-27 | Cartier International B.V. | Verfahren zum Einfassen von Edelsteinen sowie nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Schmuckstück |
| WO1998015202A1 (fr) | 1996-10-09 | 1998-04-16 | P.G.C.M. Conception | Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6851278B2 (en) * | 2003-05-07 | 2005-02-08 | Jerry Keenan | Gemstone encased in ring |
-
2008
- 2008-11-25 ES ES200803350A patent/ES2328780B2/es not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2009
- 2009-11-24 WO PCT/ES2009/070525 patent/WO2010061027A1/es active Application Filing
- 2009-11-24 EP EP09828672.7A patent/EP2389827A4/de not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| GB1218540A (en) * | 1968-09-19 | 1971-01-06 | Achim Schilling | Gem settings |
| ES205316U (es) | 1974-08-14 | 1976-02-01 | Marco Roca Ernesto | Engaste perfeccionado para joyas. |
| ES8200219A1 (es) * | 1979-09-17 | 1981-11-01 | Vitau Jean | Procedimiento para montar piedras preciosas o similares y montura de piedras preciosas o similares para la aplicacion del procedimiento |
| FR2476459A1 (fr) | 1980-02-25 | 1981-08-28 | Diamant Applic | Procede industriel de fabrication de bijoux, notamment de bagues, de preference en metal precieux, comportant des pierres serties |
| FR2488496A1 (fr) * | 1980-08-12 | 1982-02-19 | Chirol Francis | Monture pour pierres precieuses ou analogues et son procede de fabrication |
| EP0276184A1 (de) * | 1987-01-19 | 1988-07-27 | Cartier International B.V. | Verfahren zum Einfassen von Edelsteinen sowie nach dem Verfahren hergestelltes Schmuckstück |
| WO1998015202A1 (fr) | 1996-10-09 | 1998-04-16 | P.G.C.M. Conception | Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
| Title |
|---|
| See also references of EP2389827A4 |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| ES2328780A1 (es) | 2009-11-17 |
| ES2328780B2 (es) | 2010-06-01 |
| EP2389827A4 (de) | 2015-03-18 |
| EP2389827A1 (de) | 2011-11-30 |
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