WO2009125274A2

WO2009125274A2 - A method for cosmetic/aesthetic treatment of the epidermis of the human body

Info

Publication number: WO2009125274A2
Application number: PCT/IB2009/005195
Authority: WO
Inventors: Carolina Redaelli
Original assignee: Dermophisiologique S.R.L.
Priority date: 2008-04-09
Filing date: 2009-04-06
Publication date: 2009-10-15
Also published as: WO2009125274A3; ITMI20080619A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for cosmetic/aesthetic treatment of the epidermis of the human body, including at least one step in which four consecutive types of treatment of the epidermis are performed, namely: a first skin cleaning treatment; a second treatment for activating/re-activating cell exchanges; a third treatment for oxygenating cells; a fourth treatment for restructuring and/or re-balancing the tissue, with subsequent restoring of its physiological function.

Description

"A METHOD FOR COSMETIC/AESTHETIC TREATMENT OF THE EPIDERMIS OF THE HUMAN BODY" DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to a method for the cos- metic/aesthetic treatment of the epidermis of the human -"foody (face and/or body), comprising at least one step in which four consecutive types of treatment of the epidermis are carried out, in particular: a first treatment for cleaning the skin, both on the surface and in depth; a second treatment for activating and/or re-activating passive and active intra/extra-membrane cell exchanges; a third treatment for supplying oxygen (oxygenating) to the activated cells, with consequent stimulation of microcirculation; a fourth treatment for restructuring and/or re-balancing the tissue comprising the activated _ and oxygenated cells, with the subsequent restoring of its natural physiological function. Said method enables to obtain immediate and lasting results in the treatment of all imperfections and/or alterations of the epidermis of the face and/or body, whatever the origin thereof.

Cosmetic methods for treating imperfections and/or alterations of the epidermis of the human body, as com- monly used in beauty salons and/or professional insti- tutes, are characterized by a number of drawbacks which as a rule (especially in the case of aged people and/or people whose functional situation or trophism of epidermal cells is compromised by various causes, including some types of skin diseases) do not enable to obtain immediate, and above all lasting results. Among these drawbacks the following can be mentioned as mere examples: an insufficient restoring of the physiological function of epidermal cells; the low possibility to adjust/customize treatment as a function of patient's type and problems; improvised treatments with a high error margin affecting the result, unacceptably long treatment times; high costs for the patient; not wholly satisfactory final results; need to repeat the treatment in short times.

Therefore, there is still the need in this field to obviate the epidermis imperfections of a patient, whatever the cause thereof, to such an extent as to avoid the above described problems and to obtain the desired results within acceptable times, in a lasting manner without requiring new treatments in short times.

Above all, there is still the need in this field to solve the epidermis imperfections of a patient, what- ever the cause thereof, to such an extent as to recov- er the correct and natural skin physiology of said patient.

As far the Applicant knows, a method of cosmetic treatment that is able to satisfactorily obviate the above described drawbacks is not known.

The .present invention aims at adequately meeting the needs referred to above.

This aim, which will be evident from the following detailed description, has been achieved by the Appli- cant, who has unexpectedly found that a method of cosmetic/aesthetic treatment including at least one step in which a series of suitable and specific types of epidermis treatments is able to adequately meet the above described problems. An object of the present invention is therefore a method of cosmetic/aesthetic treatment of the epidermis of a patient, as disclosed in the appended independent claim. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are disclosed in the appended dependent claims and in the following detailed description.

The method of treatment according to the present invention (hereinafter defined for convenience's sake ^λM-step method") is an orderly and pre-arranged method aiming at a higher effectiveness of results in the treatment of all imperfections and/or alterations of the epidermis, whatever the origin thereof (e.g. ageing or various diseases) . It is basically based on an innovative sequential application of a number of topi- cal treatments, founded per se on physiological, anatomical and cosmetological knowledge. It ensures beauticians immediate and lasting positive results, optimizes their work, cancels "dead times" in which the beauty institute is not productive and therefore al- lows a better economical management of the activity.

Said method comprises at least one step (referred to as treatment, execution or intervention step) in which four specific types of topical treatments are carried out- consecutively on the epidermis. Said treatments include: • a) a first skin cleaning treatment; b) a second treatment involving the activation/reactivation of cell exchanges (cell exchanges include both passive and active exchanges, as is well known in the art) ; cj a third treatment involving oxygen supply (oxygenation) to the .cells and the tissue undergoing treatment, with subsequent optimal stimulation of microcirculation; d) a fourth .treatment involving the restructuring and/or re-balancing of the cells and tissue, with sub- sequent functional restoring of the natural -physiology of the cells and the tissue formed thereby. -. The sequence of the aforesaid treatment is essential to obtain the desired results, since every treatment enables and maximizes the results that can be obtained with the following intervention.

If only one of the aforesaid treatments is not carried out, it is not possible to obtain the immediate and lasting results -characterizing the 4-step method of the present invention.

For instance, an oxygenation treatment (step c) ) carried out on cells whose capacity of intra/extra- membrane osmotic exchange has not been previously ac- tivated or re-activated (step b) ) is absolutely insufficient (or even. wholly ineffective) .

The main concept underlying the method of the present invention^' is that any skin problem (either due to a disease or to an imperfection) is due to an altered function of the cells. As a result, the cell will produce a "bad" tissue which will work "badly"; the result will therefore be a tissue with an unattractive appearance (imperfections) or a pathologic tissue (altered tissue) . Therefore, in order to be able to treat every aesthet- ic imperfection and/or alteration of the skin of the face and/or body, it is necessary to bring skin cells back to their physiological metabolism and trophism and keep them. This is achieved by the application of the specific sequence of the treatments a) to d) as described above. Each of said treatments is carried out by topical application (also referred to as laying) of suitable products performing on epidermal cells the actions listed above.

Said products will be suitably selected among ad hoc products, either new or known in the art, which are able to effectively perform the following operations: a) a cleaning action, on the surface and in the mean time as deep as possible of the epidermis, so as to enable to eliminate all dead cells and impurities accompanying them and the maximum skin penetration of the products used in the following treatments; b) activation and/or re-activation of active and pas- sive exchanges in the cells of the tissue undergoing cleaning, so as to enable the optimal establishment or restoring of the mechanisms of osmotic interchange between intra- and extra-cellular environment, which are fundamental for allowing cell detoxination and troph- ism; as a matter of fact, in order to be functional, cells must have a high and effective membrane permeability; c) oxygenation of the cells and tissue re-activated in treatment b) (i.e. brought back into optimal "communi- cation" with the outside environment) , so as to enable the stimulation of microcirculation and enhance vascularization, with subsequent epidermis renewal and skin toning up; d) restructuring and/or re-balancing of skin tissue oxygenated in treatment c) , by stimulating cell metabolism, the restoring of the skin barrier, of the hy- drolipidic film and of the intercorneocytary cement • By way of absolutely non-limiting example of the invention, the following contains a detailed description of a particularly preferred embodiment of the treatment/execution step of the method according to the invention.

First step - treatment a) : surface and deep skin cleaning. The product preferably used in this embodiment makes the object of Italian patent application No. MI2007A002098 (which is herein incorporated as reference) and is made up of a magnetic gommage mask cream, comprising a creamy, non aqueous base rich in nourish- ing and soothing substances and in sebum-like fats, which was added with irregularly shaped microspheres or microparticles of iron oxide, which are incorporated and wrapped into a lipidic film. Said product is provided with a magnet and a toner and is marketed by Dermophisiologique S.r.l. under the registered name Dermomagnetic^®.

As is known, the upper skin layer is the corneous layer, which is coated by a hydroldpidic film made up of the secretion of the sweat and sebaceous glands . Said film on the one hand protects skin but on the other keeps inside dead cells and part of waste substances let out with sweat and sebum. After first washing the skin (preparatory step) the above product is applied onto the skin with a delicate massage and gets emulsified on the surface with the hydrolipidic film lifting/incorporating dead surface corneocytes. It further gets deeper between dead corneocytes coating the follicular orifice (incorporating them) and into the surface portion of said follicular orifice. The following removal with the magnet of magnetized iron particles also removes excess sebum and dead corneocytes bonded with iron microspheres. After removing the magnetic ferrous part and the residues bonded thereto, the creamy part remains on the skin, which crea- my part is rich in sebum-like lipids and gets mixed with the sebum of the pilosebaceous follicle, cleaning the latter by likeness. After massaging the residual creamy part, the latter is removed by the special tonic provided (closing step) , basically comprising an aromatic water rich in soothing and decongestive active substances. The magnetic mask cream described above leaves skin clean from the surface to the inside of the pilosebaceous follicle. Moreover, the physical stimulation of magnetized particles inside the fol- licle also performs a toning-up action. Both surface and deep cleaning enables a more effective action of treatments made in the following steps, greatly enhancing skin permeability. Second step - treatment b) : activation or re- activation of active and passive osmotic cell exchanges .

The use of a commercial mixture of Dead Sea salts, suitably purified and crystallized (an absolutely non- limiting example of a product that can be used is the mixture of Dead Sea salts marked by Dermophisiologique S.r.l. under the name SaIi Osmoderm) , has proved to be particularly preferred. Thanks to their particular area of origin, said salts contain calcium (calcium chloride: 0.5%), sodium (sodium chloride: 15%) potas- sium (potassium chloride: 25%), magnesium (magnesium chloride: 32%) and bromine (0.3%). The characteristic composition of these salts enables ^'the establishment or restoring of osmotic interchange mechanisms due to the difference in concentration between the inside and outside of our body and also inside the skin between intra- and extra-cellular environment. Preferably, a highly concentrated solution of said salts is applied onto the skin and the whole body is wrapped with bandages soaked in said solution. A concentration of min- erals much higher than the concentration inside the body lies on the skin surface. Through the skin, which acts as a semi-permeable membrane, a double effect is obtained: minerals are recalled inwards to re-balance the concentration of the two solutions, and liquids charged with toxins are released from the inside to the outside, thus obtaining a skin re-mineralizing effect combined with a draining and detoxinating effect. Thanks to the particular percentage of the single minerals contained in said salts, the re-mineralizing and detoxinating action is combined with a re-balancing action of active exchanges of the cell membrane thanks to the specific electric charges of said minerals, particularly the high potassium and magnesium concentration and the low sodium concentration. Treatment with said salts allows skin and its cells to restore -l i¬

the fundamental exchange activities so as to enable detoxination and the following absorption and use of substances for the restoring of the natural physiological metabolism. Third step - treatment c) : oxygen supply to the cells. In this case, particularly preferred has proved the application of a mud cream comprising: clays, bento- nite and kaolin, Fucus brown seaweeds and phytoex- tracts such as: borage, winter savory, lavender, cam- phor, cinnamon, rosemary, capsicum (an absolutely non- limiting example of a product that can be used is the product marketed by Dermophisiologique S.r.l. under the name Thermofango) . The basic action of said mud cream is to stimulate derma microcirculation. It is a hyperemizing product increasing skin vascularization and therefore cell oxygenation and the venous and lymphatic drainage of the skin tissue.

These actions of the sequence of the 4-step method of the present invention are performed after skin clean- ing and stimulation of osmotic cell exchanges: therefore oxygen supply and drainage find the cells ready to be nourished and the tissue ready to be drained in an optimal way. This does not occur with traditional treatments, wherein the oxygenation treatment is per- formed directly after skin cleaning, when cells have not been activated or re-activated for optimal osmotic exchanges. As a result, as already mentioned, the cell (and the tissue) is not able to use wholly (but only to a minimum extent, i.e. to an insufficient extent) the beneficial effects of oxygenation. Conversely, in the case of the present invention the above mud cream, through the stimulation of microcirculation, stimulates the metabolism of all activated skin cells and is therefore fully effective for epidermal renewal, for dermal stimulation and thus for skin toning up and adipocyte stimulation.

Fourth step - treatment d) : restructuring and/or rebalancing of skin cells and tissue. In this preferred embodiment, the combined topical and synergic application of three products with mutually complementary action has proved to be particularly useful .

The first product is a mixture of several acids selected among: alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), e.g. glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid; beta hydroxy acids

(BHA), e.g. salicylic acid; alpha keto acids (AKA), e.g. pyruvic acid (an absolutely non-limiting example of a product that can be used is the product marketed by Dermophisiologique S.r.l. under the name Eos gel). Said product performs a combined peeling, which indue- es. a complete skin restructuring thanks to the kerato- lytic action on epidermis and the stimulating action on dermal cells.

Said product is combined with a gel mask containing an ATP inducing tripeptide, which supplies energy to the cells. Said ATP inducing tripeptide is a synthetic peptide made up of a sequence of three amino acids: arginine, glycine, serine, which is the same as the binding site of G protein (bound to membrane receptor) with adenine of ATP. Said tripeptide is the starter of ATP synthesis and of the release of intracellular calcium, which in their turn give rise with synergic actions to various metabolic processes contrasting ageing. The increased energy reserves, ATP, of the cell maintain the structural and functional integrity of the skin. Calcium takes part in many cellular processes such as: cell differentiation, glycogen metabolism and thus energy- synthesis, membrane permeability. From an epidermal point of view, said tripeptide restores the normal turnover of keratinocytes and induces an increase of keratin in keratinocytes, thus reinforcing the skin barrier. Moreover, it promotes the synthesis of fillagrin which, beyond stabilizing kera- tin filaments, is also a precursor of NMFs (Normal Moisturizing Factors)-, therefore it reinforces and hydrates the corneous layer. From a dermal -point of view, it increases cell migration during reparatory processes . Skin topical application of said tripeptide results in an epidermal renewal, in the reinforcement of the skin barrier and in a synthesis of dermal tissue. Skin acquires tone, turgidness, compactness, smoothness and elasticity (an absolutely non-limiting example of .a product that can be used is the product marketed by Dermophisiologique S.r.l. under the name Biolift) . In skin cells, first stimulated with the mixture of acids ^' described above and then "energized" by the ATP inducing tripeptide, there occurs a keratinocyte sti- mulation with an increased production of keratin and of the fibroblast, with the subsequent, immediate production of collagen.

The restructuring and/or re-balancing treatment ends with the application of one or more products re- balancing and maintaining in the skin normal ..physiological activities (an absolutely non-limiting example of products that can be used includes the products marketed by Dermophisiologique S.r.l. under the names Xomega fango, Xomega sierό, Xomega crema) . Said prod- ucts re-balance the skin tissue by restoring the skin barrier, in particular: the hydrolipidic film, kerati- nocytes, the intercorneocytary cement; the redistribution of water content in the skin, thus ensuring the correct amount of water for epidermis and der- ma. Moreover, they support and maintain dermal anatomical structures.

As far as Xomega products referred to above are concerned, they act in a selected and specific emulsifying context thanks to: liposomization of every single active substance, thus ensuring vehiculation and targeted and specific synergic action; cold ^' emulsification, so as to keep the properties of active substances intact and ^' their bioavailability high; use in the form of liquid crystals, thus obtaining, high bioavailability, vehiculation, absorption and receiving capacity by the tissue, lasting action in time. Said products are characterized by a high concentration, - quality and purity of active substances. Thanks to their peculiar formulation, they perform synergy of action of the active substances constituting them (synergic action of active substances) at more levels in skin tissue. As mentioned above, said products enable to: firm up, tone up and indirectly hydrate derma thanks to the components: asiaticoside (Centella phytosome titre 70%), unsaponifying part of olive, wheat and soy oil, GAG precursors, soy phytoestrogens; restore the epidermal water balance thanks to the components: saccharide isomerate (complex sugar contained in NMF) , PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) , NMF (normal moisturizing factor) , panthenol, allantoin, muci- lages (calendula and chamomile) ; restore the epidermal lipidic balance thanks to the components: currant and musk rose oil, rich in alpha linolenic acid (omega 3) , gamma linoleic acid (omega 6) , linoleic acid (all of them PUFA, polyunsaturated fatty acids) ; ceramides; unsaponifying parts of olive, wheat and soy oil; restore the correct barrier function thanks to the components: omega 3, omega 6, ceramides; restore the normal skin reactivity, de-redden, heal thanks to the components: soy phytoestrogens (40%) .

The example of topical treatment combined in four sequential application steps (a) to d) ) described above discloses a particularly preferred embodiment of the execution step of the method of treatment according to the invention, in which some specific products that have proved particularly active onto cells of skin tissue are indicated by way of non-limiting examples. In order to carry out the afore said method, other products, either new or known in the art, can be used, which products perform the same action as the above products or a similar action.

The 4-step method of the present invention includes a series of specific protocols for the treatment of every single face or body imperfection and/or altera- tion for every type of skin.

By mere way of absolutely non-limiting example, for every imperfection it is possible to prepare at least three protocols divided into age brackets: first bracket 18 to 25 years of age; second bracket 25 to 40 years of age; third bracket 40 years of age and above. This division would allow to treat the same imperfection, even in the same patient, differently according to age. For instance: ^'acne in a 20-year-old patient has different features with respect to acne in the same patient aged 40, which will be even different from acne at 50 years of age. Every protocol can include a sequence of e.g. weekly treatments, wherein said treatments are performed with cosmetic products whose characteristics of formulation are combined with the four treatment steps a) to d) as above. ■ On average the four-step topical treatment, a) to d) , described above lasts for about 2 months, with ave- ragely weekly sessions. In particular, in the second month 4 to 5 sessions can be made. If necessary, a booster cycle can also be made 6 months after the end of said treatment.

As a rule, every treatment step is divided into three stages, preparation, laying and closing. In the laying stage the product characterizing the treatment is ap- plied, whose formulation ensures actions targeted to the physiological step to be re-activated. The products used in the preparation, closing and laying of the product serve to customize the treatment to skin type and imperfection. The specific sequence of treatments a) to d) ensures that the activity of every single product used reaches its maximum effectiveness.

As a rule the treatment/execution step (4-step method) of the present invention is part of a general plan of cosmetic/aesthetic treatment allowing to program and perform in the best possible way the work of the beauty institute or salon. Said general plan preferably includes the following steps: Step A) : Check-up and diagnosis In this step, personal data are collected and a corresponding record is prepared for identifying/focusing the problems and class the patient in a general category. Check-up can be made for instance by: interviewing the patient; using instruments detecting objective skin values, such as e.g. moisturizing (water content in the corneous layer and in the hydrolipidic film) , sebum present on skin surface (hydrolipidic film) , pH, which identifies the value of skin acidity, temperature, expressing them as numbers; visual and tactile analysis of skin and subcutis condition and color. The whole of the results obtained allows to formulate a diagnosis (e.g. seborrhoeic skin in a patient belonging to an age bracket, as already referred to above) . This step is followed by: Step B) : Planning

Depending on the diagnosis of previous step A) , on the type of patient (young person, adult, aged person, male, female: in the latter case the period of the patient's menstrual cycle should be .considered) and on the time of the year, treatment sequences to be per- formed are programmed, e.g. on a weekly basis. If necessary, it will therefore be possible to adapt/adjust/customize treatments according to the patient's current situation. Eventually, there is the third step, which is the object of the present invention, namely: Step C) : Treatment/execution

Said step consists in the sequential treatments a) to d) as described in detail above.

Claims

1. A method for cosmetic/aesthetic treatment of a patient, including at least one step in which the following topical treatments are performed consecutively on the epidermis: a) a first skin cleaning treatment; b) a second treatment involving the activation/reactivation of cell exchanges in said skin; c) a third treatment involving oxygen supply to said skin and to the tissue formed thereby; d) a fourth treatment involving the restructuring and/or re-balancing of said cells and of said tissue.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein:

- during treatment a) at least a product is applied onto the skin, which product removes from the epidermis dead cells and impurities accompanying them, both on the surface and in depth;

- during treatment b) at least one product is applied onto the cleaned skin, which product establishes and/or restores the mechanism of -osmotic interchange of cell membrane between the intra- and extra-cellular environment ;

- during treatment c) at least one product is applied onto the skin, which ^"product supplies oxygen to the cells and tissue re-activated by treatment b) ; - during treatment d) at least one product is applied onto the skin, which product restores the skin barrier; preferably, several products with mutually complementary effect are applied.

3. The method according to claim 2, wherein:

- said at least one product applied during treatment a) consists of a magnetic gommage mask cream.

4. The method according to claim 2, wherein:

- said at least one product applied during treatment b) consists of a mixture of Dead Sea salts.

5. The method according to claim 2, wherein:

- said at least one product applied during treatment c) consists of a mud cream comprising: clays, seaweeds and phytoextracts .

6. The method according to claim 2, wherein:^'

- said at least one product applied during treatment d) is selected among: a product comprising a mixture of physiologically compatible acids having a kerato- lytic effect onto the epidermis; a product containing an ATP inducing compound, preferably a tripeptide; one or more products comprising mixtures of active substances of natural origin having a stimulating effect onto cell metabolism.

7. The method according to claim 6, wherein during said treatment d) three products having a 'mutually complementary effect are applied, said three products being: a product comprising a mixture of physiologically compatible acids having a keratolytic effect onto the epidermis; a product containing an ATP induc- ing tripeptide; a product comprising a mixture of active substances of natural origin having a stimulating effect onto cell metabolism.