FR2825918A1 - Cosmetic treatment of stretch marks comprises applying rubefacient, trophic, vascularizing and moisturizing compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic method for treating stretch marks comprises the sequential topical application of a rubefacient composition, a trophic composition based on a complex of amino acids, a plant extract composition that intensifies dermal vascularization, a moisturizing composition and optionally a composition that accelerates the suppression of dyschromia.

Description

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 The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment of stretch marks.

 Stretch marks result from the deterioration of the elastic fibers of the epidermis. They are in the form of small lines resembling barely sinuous scars, drawing a network on the skin of the belly, breasts and thighs. They form on the skin subjected to exaggerated distension. Stretch marks appear as streaks of purplish pink color at the beginning and over time take on a pearly white color that gives a streaked scar look.

 Stretch marks are particularly unbearable in young women and in women with dark or matte skin.

 Normally because of its elasticity, the skin can adapt to variations in weight. However, when these changes are too fast, the ability of the skin to adapt may be exceeded. This is particularly the case during adolescence, in the case of hormonal upheavals (puberty, bodybuilding, etc.), in case of pregnancy and in the case of sudden variations in weight. These conditions may aggravate a hereditary predisposition.

 Many attempts have been made to reduce or eliminate stretch marks, either using the laser or using different compounds, but none has really succeeded.

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 Among the compounds used to reduce or eliminate stretch marks, there may be mentioned retinoic acid in topical application (US Pat. Nos. 4,603,146 and 5,143,163), hydrolysis extracts of Alchemilla (US Pat. No. 4,054,649), alphahydroxy acids such as glycolic acid (US Patent No. 5,444,091) and unsaponifiable avocado fats (International Application WO 99/43298).

 Abdominal surgery has also been used to remove stretch marks, but it is a heavy operation that leaves a legacy.

 There is therefore a need to attenuate and / or eliminate stretch marks, whether of mechanical etiology (due to a variation of stretching) or hormonal (related to adolescence and / or endocrine disorders).

 The inventors have come to the conclusion that in order to treat existing stretch marks, it is necessary to bring active ingredients to the place where they must act and to reinstate the dead zones at the origin of the stretch marks.

 The cosmetic process according to the invention allows the excitation of the fibroblasts which have become inert, the cellular trophic contribution, the intensification of the vascular activity in the dermis, the hyperhydration of the treated zones and possibly the activation of the production of melanin to suppress dyschromia.

 This method plays on the thickness of the stretch mark, that is to say on the fibroblastic cells that constitute collagen and therefore has a deep action.

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 Also, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for the treatment of stretch marks, characterized in that it comprises the sequential application of a rubbing composition, a trophic composition based on an acid complex amino, a composition based on plant extracts intensifying the vascularization of the dermis, a moisturizing composition and optionally a composition accelerating the removal of dyschromia, each of these compositions being applied topically.

 In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the compositions are milks, liquid gels or gels.

 In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the compositions used have the following composition (expressed in%): - rubéfiante composition (Synchrony nl formula): - propylene glycol 9, 5-11, 5 - lactic acid 2.5 -3.5 - citric acid 2-4 - gluconic acid 2-4 - polyacrylate 1, 5-2 - red thyme (essential oil) 1, 4-1, 6 - xanthan gum 0, 09-0, 11 - allantoin 0 , 4-0, 6 - Emulherba (polysaccharide, blowing agent) 0.2-0, 26 - ethyl nicotinate 0.14-0.16 - preservative (triclosan) 0, 09-0, 11 - water QSP 100

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- allantoïne 0, 9-1, 11 - carbopol 0, 7-0, 9 - acide ascorbique 0, 09-0, 11 - tri-éthanol amine triclosan 0, 09-0, 11 - extrait de thé vert 0, 09-0, 11 - eau QSP 100 - composition vascularisante à base d'extraits végétaux (formule Synchrony n 3) : - Hedera helix 1, 5-2,2 - Hamamelis 1, 5-2,2 - Cupressus 1, 5-2,2 - Ruscus 1, 5-2,2 - Gingko biloba 1, 5-2,2 - Symphytum 1, 5-2,2 (les six végétaux sont des extraits hydroglycoliques) - carbopol 0,7-0, 9 - tri-éthanol amine triclosan 0, 09-0, 11 - eau QSP 100 - composition hydratante (formule Synchrony n 4 : - Oleth 10-oleth 5 5-7 - paraffine liquide 3,5-4, 5 - extrait hydroglycolique d'Alchemilla 2,5-3, 5 - Trophic composition (Synchrony formula n 2): - Phytokeratin (amino acid complex) 4,5-5,5 - Hydroglycolic extract of papaya 2,5-3,5 - Organic silicon 1,5-2,2 - Extract Symphytum glycols 1, 5-2,2 - Equisetum 0, 9-1, 11 - Tenuiflora mimosa extract 0, 9-1, 11

- allantoin 0, 9-1, 11 - carbopol 0, 7-0, 9 - ascorbic acid 0, 09-0, 11 - tri-ethanol amine triclosan 0, 09-0, 11 - green tea extract 0, 09- 0, 11 - water QSP 100 - vascularizing composition based on plant extracts (Synchrony formula n 3): - Hedera helix 1, 5-2,2 - Hamamelis 1, 5-2,2 - Cupressus 1, 5-2, 2 - Ruscus 1, 5-2,2 - Gingko biloba 1, 5-2,2 - Symphytum 1, 5-2,2 (the six plants are hydroglycolic extracts) - carbopol 0,7-0,9-tri- ethanol triclosan amine 0, 09-0, 11 - water QSP 100 - hydrating composition (Synchrony formula n 4: - Oleth 10-oleth 5 5-7 - liquid paraffin 3,5-4,5 - Alchemilla 2 hydroglycolic extract, 5-3, 5

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- Hydroglycolic extract of Centella asiatica
1, 5-2,2 - hydrolytic extract of Malva sylv 1,5-2,2-sorbitol 1,5-2,2 - almond oil 1,5-2,2 - extract of Delesseria chondrus laminaria
1, 4-1, 6 - Jojoba oil 0, 9-1, 11 - Aenanthera oil 0, 9-1, 11 - allantoin 0, 9-1, 11 - sodium polyacrylate 0.7-0, 9 5-chloromethyl-2H-isothiazol-3-one 0.0-0.0, 11-urea 2-water QSP 100
The compositions used in the process according to the invention may be applied by any means conventionally used in the field, in particular by manual application, to roller or ultrasonic means.

In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, said compositions are penetrated using ultrasonic devices of medium and controlled power, the characteristics of which are as follows:

<Tb>
<tb> Models
<tb> HS-3008 <SEP> SC-2001
<tb> Frequency <SEP> 1 <SEP> MHz / sec <SEP> 1 <SEP> MHz / sec
<tb> Volts <SEP> 24 <SEP> VDC <SEP> 24 <SEP> VDC
<tb> Power <SEP> High <SEP> 350 <SEP> mA <SEP> 130 <SEP> mA
<tb> Power <SEP> average <SEP> 270 <SEP> mA <SEP> 100 <SEP> mA
<tb> Power <SEP> Low <SEP> 150 <SEP> mA <SEP> 80 <SEP> mA
<tb> Timer <SEP> 15 <SEP> min <SEP> 15 <SEP> min
<tb> Pulsed <SEP> wave <SEP> Yes <SEP> Yes
<tb> Wave <SEP> continues <SEP> Yes <SEP> Yes
<Tb>

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The method according to the invention makes it possible to act simultaneously on several physiological parameters thanks to the different compositions used; in addition, the bioavailability of the various compositions is very good, especially when using ultrasound.

 The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it.

1. Operating procedure
The clinical study was performed on 5 women who were treated in 8 sessions over 28 days with a sequential application at t0, t4, t8, t11, t14, t18, t21 and t25.

 The application of the products is carried out at one leg, the other leg being untreated and used as a control.

 For each subject, the treatment is applied on stretch marks and on a healthy part without stretch marks on the same thigh.

 Composition No. 1, in the form of a liquid gel, is applied every evening on the stretch marks of the randomized thigh from the first day and for 15 days.

 Composition No. 4, in the form of a milk, is applied every morning and every day for 1 month.

 The compositions are applied by the subject himself by round massage with the fingertips and until complete penetration of the product.

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 Compositions Nos. 2 and 3, in the form of gels, are applied to t0, t4, t8, t11, t14, t18, t21, t25 and t28 using an HS 3800 ultrasonic apparatus from Shine Fun Beauty. Company Co, Ltd in Taiwan due to an ultrasound pass for 5 min with gel n 2, then for 5 min with gel n 3.

 Evaluations are performed at t0, t + 14 days and t + 28 days by self-evaluation, dermatological evaluation, fingerprint analysis, ultrasound at 20 MHz.

1. 1 Self-assessment
The self-evaluation is carried out by each person treated and by the dermatologist from a questionnaire.

1. 2 Impression Analysis
The fingerprint analysis of the skin macrorelief is performed at t0, tl4 and t28 using a silicone resin (SILFLO, Flexico Developments Ltd in Great Britain). After polymerization, the Silflo resin impressions will be peeled off the skin and then listed.

 The imprints will be the size of a wrinkle footprint and will be performed on subjects standing on a selected stretch mark at 0 on each thigh.

The fingerprints are analyzed by the shadows technique with an incidence of 25.

 The fingerprints are positioned on an Oxy plate and will be illuminated by constant illumination at an incidence of 25. Digital images of these

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 fingerprints are then made with a digital camera CCD-RGB type XC-711 / 711P from Sony in the same lighting conditions and focal.

 These images are processed using Visilog 5.02 software from Noesis SA in France.

 After binarization, subtraction of the background noise and foliage, the parameters extracted from the acquisitions made on the fingerprints of stretch marks are: the depth of the cutaneous microrelief of the stretch mark and the orientation of the main stretch mark relative to the healthy tissue.

1. 3 Ultrasonography
Ultrasound ultrasound at 20 MHz is performed with a Dermcup 2020 (2MT in France) equipped with a probe working at a central frequency of 20 MHz. The high resolution ultrasound acquisitions are made for each time at t0, tl4 and t28 and for each thigh on the same stretch mark and on some healthy skin near the stretch mark. The field of view will be kept constant for a given subject at all the measurement times, as well as the gain.

 For each measurement style (healthy skin and stretch mark of each thigh), two measurements of cutaneous thickness (dermis and epidermis) per image are performed on each acquired image.

 Two images will be acquired successively on each measurement zone and at each time of the study. For each time and for each subject, the average of the 4

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 values obtained and the corresponding standard deviation will be calculated, as well as the average of the individual differences, of the thickness of the skin between t0 and tl4 or t28.

2. Results
2. 1 Self-evaluation
According to the self-evaluation by the people treated, 83% of them are satisfied after 14 days and consider that the treatment according to the invention is effective, 50% of them considering that the stretch marks are less deeper, more discreet, attenuated and more flexible.

 At 14 days, the various compositions entering this treatment are well tolerated and do not cause any irritation.

 At 28 days, 100% of the people are satisfied and 80% consider that the treatment according to the invention is much more effective than the usual products. 80% of people believe that stretch marks are less deep and more attenuated.

 The products are also well tolerated after 28 days.

 At the level of the treated healthy skin, there is also a slight increase in the thickness of the skin by the anti-stretch marks concept compared to the control zone which has a slight variation.

2.2 Analysis of fingerprints
The results are given in Table 1.

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 At the level of the treated area, the fingerprint analysis shows a change in the skin network orientation at the level of stretch marks compared to healthy skin. On the other hand, at the level of the control zone, no modification is observed on the orientation of the cutaneous network.

Table 1
Orientation variations
Tissue deviations healthy-stretch marks (degrees)

<Tb>
<tb> Time <SEP> Treated <SEP> Witness <SEP> Trait <SEP> t-Control
<tb> TO-6, <SEP> 32-4, <SEP> 89-1, <SEP> 43
<tb> T + 14 <SEP> j <SEP> 4, <SEP> 46-4, <SEP> 799, <SEP> 24
<tb> T <SEP> + <SEP> 28 <SEP> d <SEP> 9, <SEP> 66-5, <SEP> 6215, <SEP> 27
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2.3 Ultrasound
The results are collated in Table 2.

 The results show at the level of stretch marks a significant and regular increase in the thickness of the skin treated by the method according to the invention compared to the control zone which remains relatively stable.

Table 2
Average measurements of the skin thickness of all subjects (mm)

<Tb>
<tb> Skin <SEP> Healthy <SEP> Stretch Marks
<tb> Treated <SEP> Control <SEP> Treated <SEP> Control
<tb> TO <SEP> Mean <SEP> 1, <SEP> 90 <SEP> 1.86 <SEP> 1.63 <SEP> 1.63
<tb> Difference <SEP> type <SEP> 0.46 <SEP> 0.45 <SEP> 0.53 <SEP> 0.54
<tb> Mean <SEP> 1.92 <SEP> 1.75 <SEP> 1.70 <SEP> 1.61
<tb> Variation <SEP> type <SEP> 0.35 <SEP> 0.49 <SEP> 0.51 <SEP> 0.46
<tb> T + 28 <SEP> j <SEP> Mean <SEP> 1.95 <SEP> 1.90 <SEP> 1.97 <SEP> 1.78
<tb> Difference <SEP> type <SEP> 0, <SEP> 29 <SEP> 0, <SEP> 32 <SEP> 0.46 <SEP> 0, <SEP> 30
<Tb>

Claims (4)

 1. Cosmetic process for the treatment of stretch marks, characterized in that it comprises the sequential application of a rubbing composition, a trophic composition based on an amino acid complex, a composition based on plant extracts intensifying the vascularization of the dermis, a moisturizing composition and optionally a composition accelerating the removal of dyschromia, each of these compositions being applied topically. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the compositions are in the form of milk, liquid gel or gel. 3. Method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the compositions used have the following composition (expressed in%): - rubéfiante composition (Synchrony formula nl): - propylene glycol 9, 5-11, 5 lactic acid 2,5-3,5-citric acid 2-4-gluconic acid 2-4-polyacrylate 1,5-2-red thyme (essential oil) 1,4-1,6-xanthan gum 0,9- 0, 11 - ranging 0.4-0.6 - Emulherba (polysaccharide, swelling agent) 0.2-0.26 - ethyl nicotinate 0.14-0.16 <Desc / Clms Page number 12>  QSP 100 - water QSP 100 - vascularizing composition based on plant extracts (Synchrony formula n 3): - Hedera helix 1, 5-2,2 - Hamamelis 1, 5-2,2 - Cupressus 1, 5-2,2 - Ruscus 1, 5-2,2 - Gingko biloba 1, 5-2,2 - Symphytum 1, 5-2,2 (the six plants are hydroglycolic extracts) - carbopol 0,7-0,9 - tri-ethanol amine triclosan 0, 09-0, 11 - water QSP 100

 - trophic composition (Synchrony formula n 2): - phytokeratin (amino acid complex) 4,5-5,5 - 2,5-1,5-glycyllolic papaya extract - organic silicon 1,5-2,2 - extract Symphytum glycols 1, 5-2,2 - Equisetum 0, 9-1, 11 - mimosa extract Tenuiflora 0, 9-1, 11 - allantoin 0, 9-1, 11 - carbopol 0.7-0, 9 - ascorbic acid 0, 09-0, 11 - tri-ethanol amine triclosan 0, 09-0, 11 - green tea extract 0, 09-0, 11

 - preservative (triclosan) 0, 09-0, 11 - water QSP 100 <Desc / Clms Page number 13> 1,4-1,6 - Jojoba oil 0.9-1, 11 - Aenanthera oil 0.9-1, 11 - allantoin 0.9-1, 11 - sodium polyacrylate 0.7-0.9 - 5-chloromethyl-2H-isothiazol-3-one 0.09-0.11 - urea 2 - water QSP 100 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the compositions are applied using ultrasound. 1,5-2, 2 - hydrolytic extract of Malva sil 1.5-2, 2 - sorbitol 1.5-2, 2 - almond oil 1.5-2, 2 - extract of Delesseria chondrus laminaria  hydrating composition (Synchrony formula n 4): Oleth 10-oleth 5 5-7 liquid paraffin 3.5-4.5-Hydrogolic extract of Alchemilla 2.5-3.5 Hydrogolic extract of Centella asiatica