WO2009092934A1 - Cosmetic composition, in particular makeup composition for keratinic materials, having improved cosmetic properties - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition, in particular makeup composition for keratinic materials, having improved cosmetic properties Download PDFInfo
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- WO2009092934A1 WO2009092934A1 PCT/FR2009/050013 FR2009050013W WO2009092934A1 WO 2009092934 A1 WO2009092934 A1 WO 2009092934A1 FR 2009050013 W FR2009050013 W FR 2009050013W WO 2009092934 A1 WO2009092934 A1 WO 2009092934A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising at least two particular silicone resins, said composition being intended to be applied to keratin materials, such as skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair.
- the composition according to the invention may be a make-up composition and / or a care composition for keratin materials, in particular skin and lips.
- the composition may be a sunscreen composition.
- Make-up or skincare products of the human skin or lips such as foundations or lipsticks generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers.
- compositions when they are applied to the skin or the lips, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say of being deposited at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact, such as a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or skin. It follows a poor persistence of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the foundation composition or lipstick. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable traces especially on the blouse collar can exclude some women from the use of this type of makeup.
- compositions tend to migrate, that is to say, to spread inside the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin that surround the lips and eyes, resulting in an unsightly effect. It is known to improve the holding and non-transfer properties of cosmetic compositions by introducing silicone resins comprising MQ units.
- silicone resins comprising MQ units.
- These patents disclose compositions comprising a mixture of organosiloxane resins and diorganosiloxane with a volatile oil.
- the application is more catchy, that is to say less slippery, since the amount of non-volatile oil is low so as not to alter the behavior. deposit on keratin materials and in particular the lips.
- compositions in particular lipsticks, having good properties of resistance to transfer and color retention, while providing a brilliant makeup result.
- the inventors have shown that it is possible to reconcile slippery application, color retention, and brightness by combining, in a cosmetic composition, containing at least one volatile oil, at least one solid silicone resin preferably comprising MQ units, and a liquid silicone resin also preferably comprising MQ units.
- a cosmetic composition containing at least one volatile oil, at least one solid silicone resin preferably comprising MQ units, and a liquid silicone resin also preferably comprising MQ units.
- Such a composition has cosmetic properties, in particular the application properties, improved with respect to known compositions containing a silicone resin and a volatile oil. It has been shown that by substituting a portion of the solid silicone resin with a more fluid silicone resin, it is possible to improve the sliding and the gloss while maintaining an equivalent non-transfer level.
- the composition of the invention also has good deposition properties, in particular color, on keratin materials. This type of cosmetic composition is stable over time (no
- one of the objects of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile oil and at least one silicone resin solid at 25 ° C., solubilized or dispersed in said volatile oil, the composition also containing a liquid silicone resin.
- at least one of the two silicone resins comprises at least one siloxylated silicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and / or aralkyl radicals.
- the silicone resin solid at 25 ° C is the silicone resin solid at 25 ° C.
- the silicone resin liquid at 25 ° C. is, at this temperature and at atmospheric pressure, a viscosity measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard. between 5 and 200,000 cSt.
- the solid resin may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight.
- the liquid resin may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight.
- the mass ratio between the liquid resin and the solid resin may be between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between 1/4 and 1/1.
- the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising a volatile oil, and the combination of a first organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and a second organosiloxane resin comprising at least one a siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl and aralkyl radicals.
- At least one of the resins may be a solid resin at 25 ° C., the other then being a liquid resin at 25 ° C.
- the resins considered in the present invention may comprise units of formula: (R R 2 R 3 SiO) x (SiO 4 Z 2 ) Y in which: x and y are integers; and
- R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group or an OH group.
- the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a certain amount. ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight.
- the mass ratio between the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals and the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals may be between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between
- the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight.
- the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals may be a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin and the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals may be a phenylpropyl resin. dimethyl-siloxysilicate.
- the volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise a pulverulent phase comprising pigments, nacres, fillers or their mixture. They may in some embodiments be free of non-volatile oil. By “free” is meant 0% to 2%, and preferably 0% to 1%.
- compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyamide polymer or copolymer chosen from polyamides-organosiloxanes.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, and / or at least one pasty fatty substance.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise water of 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight.
- compositions according to the invention are free of water. "No water” means less than 0.5% water.
- the water composition does not contain water added independently of any small amounts of water present in certain raw materials of the composition.
- the composition according to the invention can be in the solid form.
- solid means a composition of high consistency. This is particularly the case of a stick or a gloss in pot.
- the hardness of a solid composition may be between 30 and 300 g, especially between 50 and 250 g and preferably between 70 and 230 g.
- the hardness of a stick can be measured by the so-called "butter-cutting thread” method, which consists of cutting a stick of lipstick 8 mm in diameter and measuring the hardness at 20 ° C., by means of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100 mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) needed to cut a stick under these conditions.
- the hardness of a composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 g, preferably from 50 to 250 g and for example from 70 to 230 g.
- the subject of the invention is also, according to a third aspect, a process for making up keratin materials, in particular for the lips, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition as described above.
- the invention further relates, in a fourth aspect, the use of a composition as described above, to obtain a comfortable makeup, shiny, having good properties of non-transfer and color retention.
- composition of the invention comprises a mixture of two different silicone resins.
- one of the resins is liquid at 25 0 C (and atmospheric pressure), while the other is solid at 25 0 C (and atmospheric pressure).
- the solid organosiloxane resins used in the present invention are soluble or dispersible in the volatile oil of the composition to form homogeneous and transparent dispersions or solutions.
- silicone resins solids according to the invention are distinguished from silicone fillers such as TOSPEARLS particles marketed by General Electric, and which are too crosslinked to be soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene, isoparaffins or cyclic siloxanes. More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
- the resin marketed under the reference SR100O by the company General Electric may in particular be suitable as a solid silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
- the resin marketed under the reference Silshine 151 by the company General Electric may in particular be suitable as liquid silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
- silicone resin the silicone resins which are soluble or dispersible in the volatile oil of the composition are preferred. This is particularly the case of the MQ resin sold under the reference SR100O by the company General Electric, which forms in the isododecane homogeneous and transparent dispersions. While this is not the case for such charges as TOSPEARLS particles that are marketed by General Electric.
- the two resins are resins comprising units of formula:
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group or an OH group.
- x and y are integers different from zero.
- the first silicone resin is substituted with alkyl radicals and the second silicone resin is substituted with aralkyl radicals and alkyl radicals.
- the liquid siloxane resin may typically have a viscosity of between 5 and 200,000 cSt at 25 ° C., preferably between 20 and 10,000 cSt, more preferably between 100 and 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C.
- silicone resins are known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the different monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
- the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (R) 3 SiOiZ 2 , the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
- the letter D means a Difunctional unit (R) 2 SiO 2 ⁇ in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms
- T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (R) SiO 3/2.
- R represents a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or a hydroxyl group.
- Q signifies a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
- At least one of the two silicone resins comprises a unit Q.
- the two silicone resins each comprise at least one Q unit.
- silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and the number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain , the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.
- silicone resins which may be akylsiloxysilicates trimethylsiloxysilicates the formula [(R) 3 SiO] x (SiO 4/2) y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging 50 to 80, and the R group is as defined above, - the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2) x (T units) wherein x is greater than 100 and the R group is as defined above.
- Polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694.
- polymethylsilsesquioxane resins examples include those may be mentioned sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units of CH 3 Si0 3/2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH 3 ) 2 SiC> 2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of the formula CH 3 Si0 3/2 and have terminal Si-OH (silanol) in the KR-242A reference, which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and Si-OH end groups or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.
- Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units of CH 3 Si0 3/2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH
- trimethylsiloxysilicate resins As solid silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins, optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR100O by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J” by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", “DC 593” by Dow Corning.
- liquid silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units
- MQ-T resins As silicone resins comprising MQ units, mention may also be made of MQ-T resins.
- the MQ-T resin preferably comprises the units: (iii) (R 3 SiO 3/2 ) c and with
- the resins are such that at least 40 mol% of the R 3 groups are propyl groups.
- the propyl siloxane resins MQ-T according to the present invention may be manufactured by any method known in the state of the art for the manufacture of siloxane resins of the general formula R n SiO (4- n ) / 2, where R represents alkyl group and n being generally less than 1.8.
- MQ-T propyl resins can also be manufactured by the methods described below. Examples of MQ-T propyl resins according to this invention include:
- the propyl resins MQ-T comprising the units: ((CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ) a ,
- the MQ-T propyl resins comprising the units: ((CH 3) 3 Si0 1/2) a, ((CH 3) 2 Si0 2/2) b, ((CH 3) (C 6 H 5) SiO 2 Z 2 V,
- the propyl resins MQ-T comprising the units: ((CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ) a , ((CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 ) b , ((CH 3 ) (C 6 H 5 ) SiO 2 Z 2 V,
- the MQ-T resins can be prepared according to the process described in application WO 2005/075542.
- the mass ratio between the liquid silicone resin and the solid silicone resin may be between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between 1 and 4. / 4 and 1/1.
- the solid silicone resin may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a quantity of 1%. at 20% by weight.
- the liquid silicone resin may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0, 5% to 20% by weight.
- the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight.
- the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.5 % to 20% by weight.
- the mass ratio between the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals and the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals may be between 1 / 10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, preferably between 1/4 and 1/1.
- composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil.
- the oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils.
- volatile oil an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm) mm of
- composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrocarbon-based volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 10 ° C. to 120 ° C., preferably from 20 ° C. to 75 ° C., and preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 75 ° C. C at 50 ° C.
- the volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as C 5 -C 16 ⁇ -isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched esters Cs-Ci6 such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by Shell, may also be used.
- the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
- volatile oils for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 atoms silicon, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
- R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
- oils of general formula (I) mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1, 1,1, 3,5, 5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group.
- volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.
- the oil of formula (I) for which R is an ethyl group may especially be that sold under the name BAYSILONE TP 3886 and the oil for which R is a group butyl may especially be that sold under the name Baysilone TP 3887 by the company Bayer Silicones.
- the volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight. and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight.
- the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.
- the wax is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 200 0 C and in particular up to 120 0 C.
- the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.
- the melting point corresponds to the temperature the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.
- the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
- DSC differential scanning calorimeter
- a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, then is cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 0 C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 0 C to 100 0 C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute.
- the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
- the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic and mixtures thereof.
- Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.
- hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.
- waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains there may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
- isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company.
- silicone waxes C30-C45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE
- fluorinated waxes C30-C45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE
- waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
- wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, can be used.
- a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®",
- microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO
- micro waxes of synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS
- micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders
- the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and wax synthetic such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro POWDERS
- polyethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
- the waxes may especially be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to
- composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound.
- the term "pasty" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction. and a solid fraction.
- the pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin.
- a pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
- the pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, fluorinated or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: o homopolymers of olefins, o copolymers of olefins, o homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 6 alkyl groups; 30, and o oligomers homo and copolymers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups Cs-C 30, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more dio
- esters the following are particularly preferred: the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by Sasol, arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by
- the pasty fatty substances may in particular be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
- composition of the invention may also comprise at least one agent for gelling the liquid fatty phase of the composition.
- the gelling agent may increase the viscosity of the liquid fatty phase and may lead to a solid or flowable composition when it is introduced into said liquid fatty phase.
- ethylenic gelling agent that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of Kraton G 1650 (SEBS), Kraton G 1651 (SEBS), Kraton G1652 (SEBS), Kraton G1657X (SEBS), Kraton G1701X (SEP), Kraton G1702X (SEP), Kraton G1726X (SEB), Kraton DI lOl (SBS), Kraton D-1102 (SBS), Kraton D-1107 (SIS), Gelled Permethyl 99A-750, Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-58, Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-59, Versagel 5970 and Versagel 5960 (blend of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane) from Penreco, and OS 129880, OS 129881 and OS 84383 from Lu
- the gelling agent may be a modified clay.
- Other inorganic gelling agents that can be used in the invention include silica, such as fumed silica.
- the fumed silica may have a particle size which may be nanometric or micrometric, for example from about 5 nm to 200 ⁇ m.
- the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and better still from 1 to 15% by weight.
- Non-volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil.
- non-volatile oil means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
- the non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or their mixtures.
- silicone oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.
- Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and glutamate.
- lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203
- triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, safflower,nadooulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / cap
- esters may in particular be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or palmitate.
- esters in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or palmitate.
- non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition, mention may be made of: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones and phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
- PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
- phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones and phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
- the non-volatile oil may represent from 0.1 to 40% by weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight. , the total weight of the composition.
- the non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention, in a content of less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight. and more preferably less than 1% by weight.
- the composition according to the invention may be free of non-volatile oil.
- composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase comprises water.
- the water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.
- the aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ether of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, the alkyl (C 1 -C 4) ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol carylyl glycol and mixtures thereof.
- the aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dich
- the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble compound or hydrodispersible compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.
- the aqueous phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight.
- composition according to the invention may comprise a pulverulent phase chosen in particular from pigments, pearlescent agents and / or fillers and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention may comprise pigments.
- pigments should be understood to mean particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
- the pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments.
- pigments it is possible to use metal oxides such as iron oxides (in particular those of yellow, red, brown or black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. ; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue and mixtures thereof.
- pigments of iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide.
- the pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition.
- the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
- the N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl.
- the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
- the amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
- alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
- Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.
- the pigments may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.
- the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers and / or nacres.
- the particulate phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise nacres.
- nacres it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition.
- the nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium-coated mica, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- white pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium-coated mica, or bismuth oxychloride
- colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers.
- the fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Tefion® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and microbeads silicone resin (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate,
- the filler may be a polyurethane powder.
- the polyurethane powder is not film-forming, that is to say that it does not form a continuous film when it is deposited on a support such as the skin, after having been mixed with a volatile solvent to allow its deposit.
- the polyurethane powder is a copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone.
- Such a polyurethane powder is sold, for example, under the names "Plastic Powder D-400” and "Plastic Powder D-800" by Toshiki.
- the filler may be an N-acylated amino acid powder.
- the N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
- the amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
- composition according to the invention may comprise additional dyes chosen from water-soluble and liposoluble dyes.
- the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, caramel.
- Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Green No. 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow No. 11, D & C Purple No. ° 2, D & C Orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyamide polymer or copolymer which may be chosen from polyamide homopolymers, polyamides branched with fatty chains, polyamides-organosiloxanes, polyamide-polyester copolymers, polyamide-polyacrylic copolymers, and their mixtures.
- polyamide polymer or copolymer which may be chosen from polyamide homopolymers, polyamides branched with fatty chains, polyamides-organosiloxanes, polyamide-polyester copolymers, polyamide-polyacrylic copolymers, and their mixtures.
- polyamide resins are especially those marketed under the Versamid® brand by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the trademark Onamid®, in particular Onamid S or C.
- These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000.
- the polyamides sold by the company Arizona Chemical can also be used under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662). ) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by Henkel.
- polyamide polymers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamides branched by pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms. each fatty end chain being bonded to the polyamide backbone by at least a linking group, in particular ester. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer backbone and in particular the polyamide backbone.
- Other linking groups that may be mentioned include ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiurea and thiourethane groups. These polymers are more especially those described in the document
- U.S.-A-5783657 from Union Camp.
- Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 are sold respectively in the form of an 80% gel (of active ingredient) in a mineral oil and 100 % (in active matter). They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C.
- These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 di-acid condensed on ethylene diamine, with a weight average molecular weight of approximately 6000.
- the terminal ester groups result esterification of the remaining acid termini with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also referred to as cetylstearyl alcohol).
- Polyamide polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyamides comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the main chain or in the form of a graft.
- the polymers are, for example, those described in US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 444, US-A-6,051,216 US-A-5,981,680 and WO 04-054524, the contents of which are incorporated in the present application. by reference.
- the polyamide polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight.
- composition according to the invention may be in any form acceptable and customary for a cosmetic composition.
- Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition.
- the compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly for lip makeup. , eyelashes and / or face.
- They can therefore be in the form of a care product and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, leather hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning and / or hair care; they are advantageously in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss (gloss), blush or eyelid, foundation.
- composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds.
- the invention also relates to the use of a liquid silicone resin in a composition containing a volatile oil and a solid resin, such as for example an MQ resin or a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, especially in the proportions and the chemical constitution described. above for lip makeup to improve comfort and slippery application.
- a liquid silicone resin in a composition containing a volatile oil and a solid resin, such as for example an MQ resin or a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, especially in the proportions and the chemical constitution described. above for lip makeup to improve comfort and slippery application.
- the subject of the invention is also a process for the makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on the said materials of a composition cosmetic as defined above.
- This process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to care or to make lips, by application of a composition of lipstick or lip gloss (gloss) according to the invention.
- the invention also relates to the use of the compositions described above for lip makeup.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and a composition as previously described disposed within said compartment.
- the container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.
- the closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap. on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.
- the container may be associated with an applicator, particularly in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire.
- a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622.
- It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular from molding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529.
- the applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380.
- the applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, felt, or spatula.
- the applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426.
- the applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example the patent FR 2 761 959.
- the product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
- the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag.
- an impregnated support in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag.
- Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the WO 01/03538.
- the closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing.
- the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction.
- snap-fastening is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.
- the container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material.
- thermoplastic materials examples include polypropylene or polyethylene.
- the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).
- the container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.
- the container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition.
- the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. .
- the latter can be driven by a piston mechanism.
- the container may comprise a mechanism, including rack, or with a threaded rod, or with a helical ramp, and able to move a stick towards said opening.
- a mechanism is described, for example, in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566.
- Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.
- the container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom.
- a housing is described for example in the application WO 03/018423 or in the patent FR 2 791 042.
- the container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
- the composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (at room temperature) or pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant (aerosol).
- a propellant as an aerosol
- the container is equipped with a valve (of the type used for aerosols).
- phase E The charges and pigments of phase E are ground in half of phase A. Phase B is then dispersed in the other half of phase A. Once homogeneous, the latter mixture is heated to 110 ° C., then add phase C, then phase D until melting waxes. Crushed fillers and pigments and phase F are added to the fatty phase at 100 ° C.
- the composition is poured into a mold to give it the shape of a stick 8 mm in diameter.
- the composition 1 according to the invention is brighter and more slippery on application than the comparative composition 2.
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Abstract
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing at least one volatile oil and at least one silicone resin solid at 25°C and solubilised or dispersed in said volatile oil, the composition further containing a silicone resin that is liquid at 25°C.
Description
COMPOSITION COSMETIQUE. NOTAMMENT DE MAQUILLAGE DES MATIERES KERATINIQUES. A PROPRIETES COSMETIQUES AMELIOREES COSMETIC COMPOSITION. NOTABLY MAKE-UP OF KERATINIC MATERIALS. IMPROVED COSMETIC PROPERTIES
La présente invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins deux résines siliconées particulières, ladite composition étant destinée à être appliquée sur les matières kératiniques, comme la peau, les lèvres, les cils, les sourcils, les ongles, les cheveux.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least two particular silicone resins, said composition being intended to be applied to keratin materials, such as skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hair.
La composition selon l'invention peut être une composition de maquillage et/ou une composition de soin des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau et des lèvres. La composition peut être une composition de protection solaire.The composition according to the invention may be a make-up composition and / or a care composition for keratin materials, in particular skin and lips. The composition may be a sunscreen composition.
Les produits de maquillage ou de soin de la peau ou des lèvres des êtres humains comme les fonds de teint ou les rouges à lèvres contiennent généralement des phases grasses telles que des cires et des huiles, des pigments et/ou charges.Make-up or skincare products of the human skin or lips such as foundations or lipsticks generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and / or fillers.
Ces compositions, lorsqu'elles sont appliquées sur la peau ou les lèvres, présentent l'inconvénient de transférer, c'est-à-dire de se déposer au moins en partie, en laissant des traces, sur certains supports avec lesquels elles peuvent être mises en contact, comme notamment un verre, une tasse, une cigarette, un vêtement ou de la peau. Il s'ensuit une persistance médiocre du film appliqué, nécessitant de renouveler régulièrement l'application de la composition de fond de teint ou de rouge à lèvres. Par ailleurs, l'apparition de ces traces inacceptables notamment sur les cols de chemisier peut écarter certaines femmes de l'utilisation de ce type de maquillage.These compositions, when they are applied to the skin or the lips, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say of being deposited at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact, such as a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or skin. It follows a poor persistence of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the foundation composition or lipstick. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable traces especially on the blouse collar can exclude some women from the use of this type of makeup.
De plus, ces compositions ont tendance à migrer, c'est-à-dire à se propager à l'intérieur des rides et des ridules de la peau qui entourent les lèvres et les yeux, entraînant un effet inesthétique. II est connu d'améliorer les propriétés de tenue et de non transfert des compositions cosmétiques en y introduisant des résines siliconées comprenant des motifs MQ. A titre d'exemple de documents décrivant de telles compositions, on peut citer les brevets ou demandes de brevet US 6 071 503, US 6 074 654, US 6 139 823, US 6 340 466, WO 97/17058 et WO 97/17059. Ces brevets décrivent des compositions comprenant un mélange de résines d'organosiloxane et de diorganosiloxane avec une huile volatile. Le dépôt obtenu avec ces compositions a effectivement une très bonne tenue mais devient très vite mat. Or, l'une des attentes des consommatrices, notamment vis-à-vis des produits de
rouges à lèvres, est d'obtenir un maquillage satiné une fois appliqué sur les lèvres. Il est donc souvent nécessaire d'ajouter une seconde composition qui apporte de la brillance et réduit aussi le collant de la première.In addition, these compositions tend to migrate, that is to say, to spread inside the wrinkles and fine lines of the skin that surround the lips and eyes, resulting in an unsightly effect. It is known to improve the holding and non-transfer properties of cosmetic compositions by introducing silicone resins comprising MQ units. By way of example of documents describing such compositions, mention may be made of the patents or patent applications US Pat. No. 6,071,503, US Pat. No. 6,074,654, US Pat. No. 6,139,823, US Pat. No. 6,340,466, WO 97/17058 and WO 97/17059. . These patents disclose compositions comprising a mixture of organosiloxane resins and diorganosiloxane with a volatile oil. The deposit obtained with these compositions actually has a very good performance but quickly becomes dull. One of the expectations of consumers, especially with regard to lipsticks, is to get a satiny makeup when applied to the lips. It is therefore often necessary to add a second composition that provides shine and also reduces the stickiness of the first.
Cependant, les produits de maquillage « double geste » sont contraignants pour l'utilisatrice, nécessitant notamment d'avoir les deux compositions à disposition et un temps suffisant pour appliquer deux couches de maquillage différentes. Le maquillage des lèvres est plus délicat.However, the "double gesture" makeup products are restrictive for the user, requiring in particular to have both compositions available and sufficient time to apply two different makeup layers. The makeup of the lips is more delicate.
De plus, dans le cas de compositions solides, par exemple sous forme de stick, l'application est plus accrocheuse, c'est-à-dire moins glissante, car la quantité d'huile non volatile est faible pour ne pas altérer la tenue du dépôt sur les matières kératiniques et en particulier les lèvres.In addition, in the case of solid compositions, for example in the form of a stick, the application is more catchy, that is to say less slippery, since the amount of non-volatile oil is low so as not to alter the behavior. deposit on keratin materials and in particular the lips.
Il existe donc un besoin pour des compositions cosmétiques, notamment de rouges à lèvre, présentant des bonnes propriétés de résistance au transfert et de tenue dans le temps de la couleur, tout en procurant un résultat maquillage brillant. Les inventeurs ont montré qu'il était possible de concilier application glissante, tenue de la couleur, et brillance en associant, dans une composition cosmétique, contenant au moins une huile volatile, au moins une résine siliconée solide comprenant de préférence des motifs MQ, et une résine siliconée liquide comprenant également de préférence des motifs MQ. Une telle composition présente des propriétés cosmétiques, en particulier les propriétés d'application, améliorées par rapport aux compositions connues contenant une résine siliconée et une huile volatile. Il a été montré qu'en substituant une partie de la résine siliconée solide, par une résine siliconée plus fluide, il est possible d'améliorer le glissant et la brillance tout en maintenant un niveau de non-transfert équivalent. La composition de l'invention présente en outre de bonnes propriétés de tenue du dépôt, notamment de la couleur, sur les matières kératiniques. Ce type de composition cosmétique est stable au cours du temps (on n'observe pas d'exsudation) et conduit, après application sur les lèvres, à un dépôt confortable et brillant.There is therefore a need for cosmetic compositions, in particular lipsticks, having good properties of resistance to transfer and color retention, while providing a brilliant makeup result. The inventors have shown that it is possible to reconcile slippery application, color retention, and brightness by combining, in a cosmetic composition, containing at least one volatile oil, at least one solid silicone resin preferably comprising MQ units, and a liquid silicone resin also preferably comprising MQ units. Such a composition has cosmetic properties, in particular the application properties, improved with respect to known compositions containing a silicone resin and a volatile oil. It has been shown that by substituting a portion of the solid silicone resin with a more fluid silicone resin, it is possible to improve the sliding and the gloss while maintaining an equivalent non-transfer level. The composition of the invention also has good deposition properties, in particular color, on keratin materials. This type of cosmetic composition is stable over time (no exudation is observed) and leads, after application to the lips, to a comfortable and shiny deposit.
De manière plus spécifique, l'un des objets de l'invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une huile volatile et au moins une résine siliconée solide à 25 0C, solubilisée ou dispersée dans ladite huile volatile, la composition contenant en outre une résine siliconée liquide.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, au moins l'une des deux résines siliconées comporte au moins un motif silo xy silicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et/ou des radicaux aralkyles.More specifically, one of the objects of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile oil and at least one silicone resin solid at 25 ° C., solubilized or dispersed in said volatile oil, the composition also containing a liquid silicone resin. According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the two silicone resins comprises at least one siloxylated silicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and / or aralkyl radicals.
Selon une variante préférée, il s'agit de la résine siliconée solide à 25 0C. De préférence, la résine siliconée liquide à 25 0C est, à cette température et à pression atmosphérique, de viscosité mesurée selon la norme ASTM D-445 comprise entre 5 et 200 000 cSt.According to a preferred variant, it is the silicone resin solid at 25 ° C. Preferably, the silicone resin liquid at 25 ° C. is, at this temperature and at atmospheric pressure, a viscosity measured according to the ASTM D-445 standard. between 5 and 200,000 cSt.
La résine solide peut être présente dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1 % à 20 % en poids.The solid resin may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight.
La résine liquide peut être présente dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids.The liquid resin may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight.
Le ratio massique entre la résine liquide et la résine solide peut être compris entre 1/10 et 4/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 2/1, et plus préférentiellement entre 1/4 et 1/1.The mass ratio between the liquid resin and the solid resin may be between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between 1/4 and 1/1.
Selon un autre aspect, l'invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique comprenant une huile volatile, et l'association d'une première résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et d'une seconde résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et aralkyles.According to another aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising a volatile oil, and the combination of a first organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and a second organosiloxane resin comprising at least one a siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl and aralkyl radicals.
Selon cet autre aspect, au moins l'une des résines peut être une résine solide à 25 0C, l'autre étant alors une résine liquide à 25 0C.According to this other aspect, at least one of the resins may be a solid resin at 25 ° C., the other then being a liquid resin at 25 ° C.
Les résines considérées dans la présente invention peuvent comprendre des motifs de formule : (RiR2R3SiO)x(SiO4Z2)Y dans laquelle : x et y sont des entiers ; etThe resins considered in the present invention may comprise units of formula: (R R 2 R 3 SiO) x (SiO 4 Z 2 ) Y in which: x and y are integers; and
Ri, R2, R3 représentent indépendamment un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbones, un groupement aryle ou un groupement OH. La résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles peut être présente en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une teneur
allant de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids.R 1, R 2 and R 3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group or an OH group. The resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a certain amount. ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight.
Le ratio massique entre que la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles et la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles peut être compris entre 1/10 et 4/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 2/1, et plus préférentiellement entreThe mass ratio between the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals and the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals may be between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between
1/4 et 1/1.1/4 and 1/1.
La résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles peut être présente en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une teneur allant de 1 % à 20 % en poids.The resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight.
A titre d'exemple, la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles peut être une résine triméthyl-siloxysilicate et la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles peut être une résine phénylpropyl-diméthyl-siloxysilicate. L'huile volatile peut être présente en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 1 % à 80 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 5 % à 70 % en poids.By way of example, the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals may be a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin and the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals may be a phenylpropyl resin. dimethyl-siloxysilicate. The volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre une phase pulvérulente comprenant des pigments, des nacres, des charges ou leur mélange. Elles peuvent dans certains modes de réalisation, être exemptes d'huile non volatile. Par « exemptes » on entend de 0 % à 2 %, et de préférence, de 0 % à 1 %.The compositions according to the invention may comprise a pulverulent phase comprising pigments, nacres, fillers or their mixture. They may in some embodiments be free of non-volatile oil. By "free" is meant 0% to 2%, and preferably 0% to 1%.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre au moins un polymère ou copolymère polyamide choisi parmi les polyamides-organosiloxanes.The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyamide polymer or copolymer chosen from polyamides-organosiloxanes.
En outre, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre au moins une cire, et/ou au moins un corps gras pâteux.In addition, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax, and / or at least one pasty fatty substance.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre de l'eau de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0,5 à 5 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 3 % en poids.The compositions according to the invention may comprise water of 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight.
Alternativement, les compositions selon l'invention sont exemptes d'eau. Par « exemptes d'eau », on entend moins de 0,5 % d'eau. De préférence, la composition d'eau ne contient pas d'eau ajoutée de manière indépendante des éventuelles faibles quantités d'eau présente dans certaines matières premières de la composition.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous la forme solide.Alternatively, the compositions according to the invention are free of water. "No water" means less than 0.5% water. Preferably, the water composition does not contain water added independently of any small amounts of water present in certain raw materials of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can be in the solid form.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par solide une composition de consistance élevée. C'est le cas notamment d'un stick ou d'un gloss en pot. La dureté d'une composition solide peut être comprise entre 30 et 300 g, notamment entre 50 et 250 g et de préférence entre 70 et 230 g.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid" means a composition of high consistency. This is particularly the case of a stick or a gloss in pot. The hardness of a solid composition may be between 30 and 300 g, especially between 50 and 250 g and preferably between 70 and 230 g.
Ces valeurs reflètent la texture d'une composition solide, notamment apte à se déliter sur les matières kératiniques, qu'elle soit coulée en pot ou coulée sous la forme d'un stick. La dureté d'un stick peut être mesurée par la méthode dite « du fil à couper le beurre », qui consiste à couper un bâton de rouge à lèvres de 8 mm de diamètre et à mesurer la dureté à 20 0C, au moyen d'un dynamomètre DFGHS 2 de la société Indelco- Chatillon se déplaçant à une vitesse de 100 mm/minute. Elle est exprimée comme la force de cisaillement (exprimée en gramme) nécessaire pour couper un stick dans ces conditions. Selon cette méthode la dureté d'une composition selon l'invention va notamment de 30 à 300 g, de préférence de 50 à 250 g et par exemple de 70 à 230 g.These values reflect the texture of a solid composition, especially able to disintegrate on keratin materials, whether it is poured into a pot or cast in the form of a stick. The hardness of a stick can be measured by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists of cutting a stick of lipstick 8 mm in diameter and measuring the hardness at 20 ° C., by means of a DFGHS 2 dynamometer from the company Indelco-Chatillon moving at a speed of 100 mm / minute. It is expressed as the shear force (expressed in grams) needed to cut a stick under these conditions. According to this method the hardness of a composition according to the invention ranges from 30 to 300 g, preferably from 50 to 250 g and for example from 70 to 230 g.
L'invention a aussi pour objet, selon un troisième aspect, un procédé de maquillage des matières kératiniques, notamment des lèvres, comprenant l'application sur lesdites matières d'une composition cosmétique telle que décrite précédemment. L'invention a encore pour objet, selon un quatrième aspect, l'utilisation d'une composition telle que décrite précédemment, pour obtenir un maquillage confortable, brillant, présentant de bonnes propriétés de non transfert et de tenue dans le temps de la couleur.The subject of the invention is also, according to a third aspect, a process for making up keratin materials, in particular for the lips, comprising the application to said materials of a cosmetic composition as described above. The invention further relates, in a fourth aspect, the use of a composition as described above, to obtain a comfortable makeup, shiny, having good properties of non-transfer and color retention.
Résines siliconéesSilicone resins
La composition de l'invention comprend un mélange de deux résines siliconées différentes.The composition of the invention comprises a mixture of two different silicone resins.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre, une des résines est liquide à 25 0C (et pression atmosphérique), tandis que l'autre est solide à 25 0C (et pression atmosphérique). Avantageusement, les résines organosiloxanes solides utilisées dans la présente invention sont solubles ou dispersibles dans l'huile volatile de la composition pour former des dispersions ou solutions homogènes et transparentes. En cela, les résines silicones
solides selon l'invention se distinguent de charges siliconées telles que les particules TOSPEARLS commercialisés par General Electric, et qui sont trop réticulées pour être solubles dans des solvants organiques tels que le toluène, le xylène, les isoparafmes ou les siloxanes cycliques. De manière plus générale, par le terme « résine », on entend un composé dont la structure est tridimensionnelle. Ainsi, au sens de la présente invention, une polydiméthylsiloxane n'est pas une résine de silicone.According to one mode of implementation, one of the resins is liquid at 25 0 C (and atmospheric pressure), while the other is solid at 25 0 C (and atmospheric pressure). Advantageously, the solid organosiloxane resins used in the present invention are soluble or dispersible in the volatile oil of the composition to form homogeneous and transparent dispersions or solutions. In this, silicone resins solids according to the invention are distinguished from silicone fillers such as TOSPEARLS particles marketed by General Electric, and which are too crosslinked to be soluble in organic solvents such as toluene, xylene, isoparaffins or cyclic siloxanes. More generally, the term "resin" means a compound whose structure is three-dimensional. Thus, within the meaning of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
La résine commercialisée sous la référence SRlOOO par la société General Electric peut notamment convenir comme résine siliconée solide au sens de la présente invention.The resin marketed under the reference SR100O by the company General Electric may in particular be suitable as a solid silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
La résine commercialisée sous la référence Silshine 151 par la société General Electric peut notamment convenir comme résine siliconée liquide au sens de la présente invention.The resin marketed under the reference Silshine 151 by the company General Electric may in particular be suitable as liquid silicone resin within the meaning of the present invention.
Par résine de silicone on préfère les résines de silicones solubles ou dispersibles dans l'huile volatile de la composition. C'est en particulier le cas de la résine MQ commercialisée sous la référence SRlOOO par la société General Electric qui forme dans l'isododécane des dispersions homogènes et transparentes. Alors que ce n'est pas le cas de charges telles que les particules TOSPEARLS qui sont commercialisés par General Electric. Selon un autre mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, les deux résines sont des résines comprenant des motifs de formule :By silicone resin, the silicone resins which are soluble or dispersible in the volatile oil of the composition are preferred. This is particularly the case of the MQ resin sold under the reference SR100O by the company General Electric, which forms in the isododecane homogeneous and transparent dispersions. While this is not the case for such charges as TOSPEARLS particles that are marketed by General Electric. According to another embodiment of the invention, the two resins are resins comprising units of formula:
(RiR2R3Si0)x(Si04/2)y dans laquelle : x et y sont des entiers ; et - R1, R2, R3 représentent indépendamment un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone, un groupement aryle ou un groupement OH.(RIR 2 R 3 Si0) x (Si0 4/2) y wherein: x and y are integers; and R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group or an OH group.
Au sens de l'invention, x et y sont des entiers différents de zéro.For the purposes of the invention, x and y are integers different from zero.
En particulier, la première résine siliconée est substituée par des radicaux alkyles et la deuxième résine siliconée est substituée par des radicaux aralkyles et radicaux alkyles.
La résine de siloxane liquide, peut avoir typiquement une viscosité comprise entre 5 et 200 000 cSt à 25 0C, de préférence entre 20 et 10 000 cSt, de préférence encore entre 100 et 10 000 cSt à 25 0C.In particular, the first silicone resin is substituted with alkyl radicals and the second silicone resin is substituted with aralkyl radicals and alkyl radicals. The liquid siloxane resin may typically have a viscosity of between 5 and 200,000 cSt at 25 ° C., preferably between 20 and 10,000 cSt, more preferably between 100 and 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C.
La nomenclature des résines de silicone est connue sous le nom de "MDTQ", la résine étant décrite en fonction des différentes unités monomériques siloxane qu'elle comprend, chacune des lettres "MDTQ" caractérisant un type d'unité.The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the different monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
La lettre M représente l'unité Monofonctionnelle de formule (R)3SiOiZ2, l'atome de silicium étant relié à un seul atome d'oxygène dans le polymère comprenant cette unité.The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (R) 3 SiOiZ 2 , the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
La lettre D signifie une unité Difonctionnelle (R)2SiO2^ dans laquelle l'atome de silicium est relié à deux atomes d'oxygèneThe letter D means a Difunctional unit (R) 2 SiO 2 ^ in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms
La lettre T représente une unité Trifonctionnelle de formule (R)SiO3/2.The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (R) SiO 3/2.
Dans les motifs M, D, T définis précédemment, R représente un radical hydrocarboné (notamment alkyle) ayant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone ou un groupe phényl ou bien encore un groupe hydroxyle. Enfin, la lettre Q signifie une unité tétrafonctionnelle Siθ4/2 dans laquelle l'atome de silicium est lié à quatre atomes d'oxygènes eux mêmes liés au reste du polymère.In the units M, D, T defined above, R represents a hydrocarbon radical (especially alkyl) having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.
Selon une variante de réalisation de l'invention, au moins l'une des deux résines siliconées comprend une unité Q. De préférence, les deux résines siliconées comprennent chacune au moins une unité Q.According to one embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two silicone resins comprises a unit Q. Preferably, the two silicone resins each comprise at least one Q unit.
Diverses résines siliconées de propriétés différentes peuvent être obtenues à partir de ces différentes unités, les propriétés de ces polymères variant en fonction du type de monomères (ou unités), de la nature et du nombre du radical R, de la longueur de la chaîne polymérique, du degré de ramification et de la taille des chaines pendantes.Various silicone resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the nature and the number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain , the degree of branching and the size of the hanging chains.
A titre d'exemple de ces résines siliconées, on peut citer : les akylsiloxysilicates qui peuvent être des triméthylsiloxysilicates de formule [(R)3SiO]x(Siθ4/2)y (unités MQ) dans laquelle x et y sont des entiers allant de 50 à 80, et le groupement R est tel que défini plus haut, - les polysilsesquioxanes de formule (RSiO3/2)x (unités T) dans laquelle x est supérieur à 100 et le groupement R est tel que défini plus haut. Des polyméthylsilsesquioxanes sont décrits dans le document US 5 246 694.
A titre d'exemples de résines polyméthylsilsesquioxanes commercialement disponibles, on peut citer celles commercialisés : par la société Wacker sous la référence Resin MK tels que la Belsil PMS MK : polymère comprenant des unités répétitives CH3Si03/2 (unités T), pouvant aussi comprendre jusqu'à 1 % en poids d'unités (CH3)2SiC>2/2 (unités D) et présentant un poids moléculaire moyen d'environ 10000, par la société SHIN-ETSU sous les références KR-220L qui sont composées d'unités T de formule CH3Si03/2 et ont des groupes terminaux Si-OH (silanol), sous la référence KR-242A qui comprennent 98 % d'unités T et 2 % d'unités diméthyle D et ont des groupes terminaux Si-OH ou encore sous la référence KR-251 comprenant 88 % d'unités T et 12 % d'unités dimethyl D et ont des groupes terminaux Si-OH.Examples of these silicone resins, there may be mentioned: which may be akylsiloxysilicates trimethylsiloxysilicates the formula [(R) 3 SiO] x (SiO 4/2) y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging 50 to 80, and the R group is as defined above, - the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO 3/2) x (T units) wherein x is greater than 100 and the R group is as defined above. Polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694. Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, those may be mentioned sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units of CH 3 Si0 3/2 (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH 3 ) 2 SiC> 2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of the formula CH 3 Si0 3/2 and have terminal Si-OH (silanol) in the KR-242A reference, which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and Si-OH end groups or also under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.
Comme résines siliconées solides comprenant des motifs MQ siloxysilicates, on peut citer les résines triméthylsiloxysilicate éventuellement sous forme de poudres. De telles résines sont commercialisées sous la référence SRlOOO par la société General Electric ou sous la référence TMS 803 par la société Wacker. On peut encore citer les résines triméthylsiloxysilicate commercialisées dans un solvant tel que la cyclométhicone, vendues sous la dénomination « KF-7312J » par la société Shin-Etsu, « DC 749 », « DC 593 » par la société Dow Corning.As solid silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins, optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR100O by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by Dow Corning.
Comme résines siliconées liquides comprenant des motifs MQ siloxysilicates, on peut également citer les résines aralkylesiloxysilicate, telle que la phénylpropyldiméthylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 commercialisée par la société GeneralAs liquid silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units, mention may also be made of aralkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company General
Electric); sa viscosité est comprise entre 280 et 600 cSt à 25 0C. La préparation de telles résines est décrite notamment dans le brevet US5817302.Electric); its viscosity is between 280 and 600 cSt at 25 ° C. The preparation of such resins is described in particular in patent US5817302.
Comme résines siliconées comprenant des motifs MQ, on peut également citer des résines MQ-T. La résine MQ-T comprend de préférence les unités :
(iii) (R3Si03/2)c et
avecAs silicone resins comprising MQ units, mention may also be made of MQ-T resins. The MQ-T resin preferably comprises the units: (iii) (R 3 SiO 3/2 ) c and with
R1, R2 et R3 représentant indépendamment un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone, un groupement aryle, un groupement carbinol, une groupement
alcool ou un groupement amino, a étant compris entre 0,05 et 0,5, b étant compris entre zéro et 0,3, c étant supérieur à zéro, d étant compris entre 0,05 et 0,6, a + b + c + d = 1.R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group, a group an alcohol or an amino group, a being between 0.05 and 0.5, b being between zero and 0.3, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a + b + c + d = 1.
De préférence, les résines sont telles qu'au moins 40 % en moles des groupements R3 sont des groupements propyle. Les résines de propyle siloxane MQ-T selon la présente invention peuvent être fabriquées par tout procédé connu dans l'état de la technique pour la fabrication de résines de siloxane de formule générale RnSi0(4-n)/2, R représentant un groupement alkyle et n étant généralement inférieur à 1,8. Les résines de propyle MQ-T peuvent également être fabriquées par les procédés décrits ci-dessous. Comme exemples de résines de propyle MQ-T selon cette invention, on peut citer :Preferably, the resins are such that at least 40 mol% of the R 3 groups are propyl groups. The propyl siloxane resins MQ-T according to the present invention may be manufactured by any method known in the state of the art for the manufacture of siloxane resins of the general formula R n SiO (4- n ) / 2, where R represents alkyl group and n being generally less than 1.8. MQ-T propyl resins can also be manufactured by the methods described below. Examples of MQ-T propyl resins according to this invention include:
(R3Si03/2)c, avec R3 = CH3CH2CH2- et ;(R 3 Si0 3/2) c, with R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 - and;
- les résines de propyle MQ-T comprenant les unités : ((CH3)3Si01/2)a,the propyl resins MQ-T comprising the units: ((CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ) a ,
((CH3)2Si02/2)b, (R3Si03/2)c, avec R3 = CH3CH2CH2- et ;((CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 ) b , (R 3 SiO 3/2 ) c , with R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 - and;
- les résines de propyle MQ-T comprenant les unités : ((CH3)3Si01/2)a, ((CH3)2Si02/2)b, ((CH3)(C6H5)SiO2Z2V,- the MQ-T propyl resins comprising the units: ((CH 3) 3 Si0 1/2) a, ((CH 3) 2 Si0 2/2) b, ((CH 3) (C 6 H 5) SiO 2 Z 2 V,
(R3Si03/2)c, avec R3 = CH3CH2CH2- et (SiO4/2)d ;
- les résines de propyle MQ-T comprenant les unités :
(R3Si03/2)c, avec R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, et (C6H5Si03/2)c ;(R 3 SiO 3/2 ) c , with R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 - and (SiO 4/2 ) d; the propyl resins MQ-T comprising the units: (R 3 Si0 3/2) c, with R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 -, and (C 6 H 5 Si0 3/2) c;
- les résines de propyle MQ-T comprenant les unités : ((CH3)3Si01/2)a, ((CH3)2Si02/2)b, ((CH3)(C6H5)SiO2Z2V,the propyl resins MQ-T comprising the units: ((CH 3 ) 3 SiO 1/2 ) a , ((CH 3 ) 2 SiO 2/2 ) b , ((CH 3 ) (C 6 H 5 ) SiO 2 Z 2 V,
(R3Si03/2)c, avec R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, (C6H5Si03/2)c et ; a ayant une valeur totale dans la résine comprise entre 0,05 et 0,5, la somme de b + b' ayant une valeur totale dans la résine comprise entre zéro et 0,3, c ayant une valeur totale dans la résine comprise entre 0,05 et 0,65 et d ayant une valeur totale dans la résine comprise entre 0,05 et 0,6.(R 3 Si0 3/2) c, with R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 -, (C 6 H 5 Si0 3/2) and c; a having a total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.5, the sum of b + b 'having a total value in the resin of between zero and 0.3, c having a total value in the resin between 0.05 and 0.65 and d having a total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.6.
Les résines MQ-T peuvent être préparées selon le procédé décrit dans la demande WO 2005/075542.The MQ-T resins can be prepared according to the process described in application WO 2005/075542.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, le ratio massique entre la résine de silicone liquide et la résine de silicone solide peut être compris entre 1/10 et 4/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 2/1, et plus préférentiellement entre 1/4 et 1/1.According to a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio between the liquid silicone resin and the solid silicone resin may be between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between 1 and 4. / 4 and 1/1.
Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, la résine de silicone solide peut être présente dans la composition en une quantité allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une quantité de 1 % à 20 % en poids. Selon un mode particulier de réalisation, la résine de silicone liquide peut être présente dans la composition en une quantité allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une quantité de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids.According to a particular embodiment, the solid silicone resin may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a quantity of 1%. at 20% by weight. According to a particular embodiment, the liquid silicone resin may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0, 5% to 20% by weight.
Dans ce mode de réalisation, la résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles peut être présente dans la composition en une quantité allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une quantité de 1 % à 20 % en poids.In this embodiment, the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 1% to 20% by weight.
Dans ce mode de réalisation la résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un
motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles peut être présente dans la composition en une quantité allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une quantité de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids.In this embodiment, the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount of 0.5 % to 20% by weight.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, le ratio massique entre la résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles et la résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles peut être compris entre 1/10 et 4/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 2/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 1/1.According to a preferred embodiment, the mass ratio between the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals and the organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals may be between 1 / 10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, preferably between 1/4 and 1/1.
Huile volatileVolatile oil
La composition selon l'invention comprend au moins une huile volatile.The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil.
L'huile peut être choisie parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées, les huiles siliconées, les huiles fluorées.The oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils.
Par « huile volatile », on entend une huile (ou milieu non aqueux) susceptible de s'évaporer au contact de la peau en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique. L'huile volatile est une huile cosmétique volatile, liquide à température ambiante, ayant notamment une pression de vapeur non nulle, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique, en particulier ayant une pression de vapeur allant de 0,13 Pa à 40 000 Pa (10~3 à 300 mm de Hg), et de préférence allant de 1,3 Pa à 13 000 Pa (0,01 à 100 mm de Hg), et préférentiellement allant de 1,3 Pa à 1300 Pa (0,01 à 10 mm deBy "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ~ 3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm) mm of
Hg).Hg).
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre une huile volatile hydrocarbonée notamment choisie parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées ayant un point éclair allant de 10 0C à 120 0C, de préférence allant de 20 0C à 75 0C, et préférentiellement allant de 30 0C à 50 0C.The composition according to the invention may comprise a hydrocarbon-based volatile oil chosen in particular from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 10 ° C. to 120 ° C., preferably from 20 ° C. to 75 ° C., and preferably ranging from 30 ° C. to 75 ° C. C at 50 ° C.
Les huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles peuvent être choisies parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbones, et notamment les alcanes ramifiés en Cs-C i6 comme les isoalcanes en Cs-Ci β d'origine pétrolière (appelées aussi isoparaffines) comme l'isododécane (encore appelé 2,2,4,4,6-pentaméthylheptane), l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, et par exemple les huiles vendues sous les noms commerciaux d'Isopars ou de Permetyls, les esters ramifiés en Cs-Ci6 tel que le néopentanoate d'iso-hexyle, et leurs mélanges. D'autres huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles comme les distillats de pétrole,
notamment ceux vendus sous la dénomination Shell SoIt par la société SHELL, peuvent aussi être utilisées. De préférence, le solvant volatil est choisi parmi les huiles volatiles hydrocarbonées ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone et leurs mélanges.The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as C 5 -C 16 β-isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched esters Cs-Ci6 such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by Shell, may also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
Comme huiles volatiles, on peut aussi utiliser les silicones volatiles, comme par exemple les huiles de silicones linéaires ou cycliques volatiles, notamment celles ayant une viscosité < 8 centistokes (8.10~6 m2/s), et ayant notamment de 2 à 7 atomes de silicium, ces silicones comportant éventuellement des groupes alkyle ou alkoxy ayant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone. Comme huile de silicone volatile utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer notamment l'octaméthyl cyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthyl cyclopentasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl cyclohexasiloxane, l'heptaméthyl hexyltrisiloxane, l'heptaméthyloctyl trisiloxane, l'hexaméthyl disiloxane, l'octaméthyl trisiloxane, le décaméthyl tétrasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl pentasiloxane et leurs mélanges.As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of <8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 atoms silicon, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
On peut également citer les huiles linéaires alkyltrisiloxanes volatiles de formule générale (I) :It is also possible to mention volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I):
où R représente un groupe alkyle comprenant de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone et dont un ou plusieurs atomes d'hydrogène peuvent être substitués par un atome de fluor ou de chlore. where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
Parmi les huiles de formule générale (I), on peut citer : le 3-butyl 1, 1,1, 3,5, 5,5-heptaméthyl trisiloxane, le 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptaméthyl trisiloxane, et le 3-éthyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptaméthyl trisiloxane, correspondant aux huiles de formule (I) pour lesquelles R est respectivement un groupe butyle, un groupe propyle ou un groupe éthyle.Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1, 1,1, 3,5, 5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 , 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group.
On peut également utiliser des solvants volatils fluorés tels que le nonafluorométhoxybutane ou le perfluorométhylcyclopentane.It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane.
L'huile de formule (I) pour laquelle R est un groupe éthyle peut notamment être celle vendue sous le nom BAYSILONE TP 3886 et l'huile pour laquelle R est un groupe
butyle peut notamment être celle vendue sous le nom BAYSILONE TP 3887 par la société BAYER SILICONES.The oil of formula (I) for which R is an ethyl group may especially be that sold under the name BAYSILONE TP 3886 and the oil for which R is a group butyl may especially be that sold under the name Baysilone TP 3887 by the company Bayer Silicones.
L'huile volatile peut être présente dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 1 % à 80 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 5 % à 70 % en poids.The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight. and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight.
Cire(s)Wax (es)
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre au moins une cire. La cire est d'une manière générale un composé lipophile, solide à température ambiante (25 0C), à changement d'état solide/liquide réversible, ayant un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 30 0C pouvant aller jusqu'à 200 0C et notamment jusqu'à 120 0C.The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. The wax is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 200 0 C and in particular up to 120 0 C.
En particulier, les cires convenant à l'invention peuvent présenter un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 45 0C, et en particulier supérieur ou égal à 55 0C. Au sens de l'invention, la température de fusion correspond à la température du pic le plus endothermique observé en analyse thermique (DSC) telle que décrite dans la norme ISO 11357-3 ; 1999. Le point de fusion de la cire peut être mesuré à l'aide d'un calorimètre à balayage différentiel (DSC), par exemple le calorimètre vendu sous la dénomination « MDSC 2920 » par la société TA Instruments. Le protocole de mesure est le suivant :In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows:
Un échantillon de 5 mg de cire disposé dans un creuset est soumis à une première montée en température allant de -20 0C à 100 0C, à la vitesse de chauffe de 10 °C/minute, puis est refroidi de 100 0C à -20 0C à une vitesse de refroidissement de 10 °C/minute et enfin soumis à une deuxième montée en température allant de -20 0C à 100 0C à une vitesse de chauffe de 5 °C/minute. Pendant la deuxième montée en température, on mesure la variation de la différence de puissance absorbée par le creuset vide et par le creuset contenant l'échantillon de cire en fonction de la température. Le point de fusion du composé est la valeur de la température correspondant au sommet du pic de la courbe représentant la variation de la différence de puissance absorbée en fonction de la température.A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C. to 100 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./min, then is cooled from 100 ° C. to -20 0 C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 0 C to 100 0 C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
Les cires susceptibles d'être utilisées dans les compositions selon l'invention sont choisies parmi les cires, solides, à température ambiante d'origine animale, végétale,
minérale ou de synthèse et leurs mélanges.The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic and mixtures thereof.
A titre illustratif des cires convenant à l'invention, on peut notamment citer les cires hydrocarbonées comme la cire d'abeille, la cire de lanoline, et les cires d'insectes de Chine, la cire de son de riz, la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candellila, la cire d'Ouricury, la cire d'Alfa, la cire de berry, la cire de shellac, la cire du Japon et la cire de sumac ; les cires d'orange et de citron, les cires microcristallines, les paraffines et l'ozokérite ; les cires de polyéthylène, les cires obtenues par la synthèse de Fisher-Tropsch et les copolymères cireux ainsi que leurs esters.Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.
On peut aussi citer des cires obtenues par hydrogénation catalytique d'huiles animales ou végétales ayant des chaînes grasses, linéaires ou ramifiées, en Cs-C32. Parmi celles-ci, on peut notamment citer l'huile de jojoba isomérisée telle que l'huile de jojoba partiellement hydrogénée isomérisée trans fabriquée ou commercialisée par la sociétéThere may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company.
Désert Whale sous la référence commerciale Iso-Jojoba-50®, l'huile de tournesol hydrogénée, l'huile de ricin hydrogénée, l'huile de coprah hydrogénée, l'huile de lanoline hydrogénée, et le tétrastéarate de di-(triméthylol-l,l,l propane) vendu sous la dénomination de Hest 2T-4S® par la société HETERENE.Whale Desert under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (trimethylol) tetrastearate. l, l, l propane) sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
On peut encore citer les cires de silicone (C30-C45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE), les cires fluorées.Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-C45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes.
On peut également utiliser les cires obtenues par hydrogénation d'huile de ricin estérifiée avec l'alcool cétylique vendues sous les dénominations de Phytowax ricin 16L64® et 22L73® par la société SOPHIM. De telles cires sont décrites dans la demande FR-A- 2792190.It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
Comme cire, on peut utiliser un (hydroxystéaryloxy)stéarate d'alkyle en C20- C40 (le groupe alkyle comprenant de 20 à 40 atomes de carbone), seul ou en mélange. Une telle cire est notamment vendue sous les dénominations « Kester Wax K 82 P® »,As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, can be used. Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®",
« Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® » et « Kester Wax K 80 P® » par la société KOSTER KEUNEN."Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by KOSTER KEUNEN.
Comme microcires pouvant être utilisées dans les compositions selon l'invention, on peut citer notamment les micro cires de carnauba telles que celle commercialisée sous la dénomination de MicroCare 350® par la société MICROAs microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO
POWDERS, les micro cires de cire synthétique telles que celle commercialisée sous la dénomination de MicroEase 114S® par la société MICRO POWDERS, les micro cires
constituées d'un mélange de cire de carnauba et de cire de polyéthylène telles que celles commercialisées sous les dénominations de Micro Care 300® et 310® par la société MICRO POWDERS, les micro cires constituées d'un mélange de cire de carnauba et de cire synthétique telles que celle commercialisée sous la dénomination Micro Care 325® par la société MICRO POWDERS, les micro cires de polyéthylène telles que celles commercialisées sous les dénominations de Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® et 250S® par la société MICRO POWDERS et les micro cires de polytétrafluoroéthylène telles que celles commercialisées sous les dénominations de Microslip 519® et 519 L® par la société MICRO POWDERS. Les cires peuvent notamment être présentes dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,5 à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, en particulier de 1 à 20 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 5 à 15 % en poids.POWDERS, micro waxes of synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS, micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, the micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and wax synthetic such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro POWDERS, polyethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetrafluoroethylene micro waxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders. The waxes may especially be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight.
Composés pâteuxPaste compounds
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre, au moins un composé pâteux.The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound.
Par « pâteux » au sens de la présente invention, on entend un composé gras lipophile à changement d'état solide/liquide réversible, présentant à l'état solide une organisation cristalline anisotrope, et comportant à la température de 23 0C une fraction liquide et une fraction solide.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction. and a solid fraction.
Le composé pâteux est de préférence choisi parmi les composés synthétiques et les composés d'origine végétale. Un composé pâteux peut être obtenu par synthèse à partir de produits de départ d'origine végétale. Le composé pâteux peut avantageusement être choisi parmi : la lanoline et ses dérivés, les composés siliconés polymères ou non, les composés fluorés polymères ou non, les polymères vinyliques, notamment : o les homopolymères d'oléfmes, o les copolymères d'oléfines, o les homopolymères et copolymères de diènes hydrogénés,
o les oligomères linéaires ou ramifiés, homo ou copolymères de (méth)acrylates d'alkyles ayant de préférence un groupement alkyle en C8-C30, o les oligo mères homo et copolymères d'esters vinyliques ayant des groupements alkyles en Cs-C30, et o les oligomères homo et copolymères de vinyléthers ayant des groupements alkyles en Cs-C30, les polyéthers liposolubles résultant de la polyéthérification entre un ou plusieurs diols en C2-Ci00, de préférence en C2-C50, - les esters, et leurs mélanges.The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, fluorinated or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: o homopolymers of olefins, o copolymers of olefins, o homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 6 alkyl groups; 30, and o oligomers homo and copolymers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups Cs-C 30, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols, C 2 -C 00, preferably C2-C50, - esters , and their mixtures.
Parmi les esters, on préfère notamment : les esters d'un glycérol oligomère, notamment les esters de diglycérol, en particulier les condensats d'acide adipique et de glycérol, pour lesquels une partie des groupes hydroxyles des glycérols ont réagi avec un mélange d'acides gras tels que l'acide stéarique, l'acide caprique, l'acide stéarique et l'acide isostéarique et l'acide 12- hydroxystéarique, à l'image notamment de ceux commercialisé sous la marque Softisan 649 par la société Sasol, - le propionate d'arachidyle commercialisé sous la marque Waxenol 801 parAmong the esters, the following are particularly preferred: the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by Sasol, arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by
Alzo, les esters de phytostérol, les triglycérides d'acides gras et leurs dérivés, les esters de pentaérythritol, - les polyesters non réticulés résultant de la polycondensation entre un acide dicarboxylique ou un polyacide carboxylique linéaire ou ramifié en C4-C50 et un diol ou un polyol en C2-C50, les esters aliphatiques d'ester résultant de l'estérification d'un ester d'acide hydroxycarboxylique aliphatique par un acide carboxylique aliphatique, - les polyesters résultant de l'estérification, par un acide polycarboxylique, d'un ester d'acide hydroxy carboxylique aliphatique, ledit ester comprenant au moins deux groupes hydroxyle tels que les produits Risocast DA-H ®, et Risocast DA-L ®,
les esters de dimère diol et dimère diacide, le cas échéant, estérifiés sur leur(s) fonction(s) alcool(s) ou acide(s) libre(s) par des radicaux acides ou alcools tels que le Plandool-G, et leurs mélanges. Parmi les composés pâteux d'origine végétale, on choisira de préférence un mélange de stérols de soja et de pentaérythritol oxyéthyléné (5OE) oxypropyléné (5 OP), commercialisé sous la référence Lanolide par la société VEVY.Alzo, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, pentaerythritol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a C2-C50 polyol, the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, - the polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of a an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as Risocast DA-H ® and Risocast DA-L ® products, the esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols such as Plandool-G, and their mixtures. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5 PO), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen.
Les corps gras pâteux peuvent notamment être présents dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,5 à 50 % en poids, par rapport au poids de la composition, de préférence de 1 à 40 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 5 à 30 % en poids.The pasty fatty substances may in particular be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.
Gélifiant lipophileLipophilic gelling agent
La composition de l'invention peut également comprendre au moins un agent pour gélifier la phase grasse liquide de la composition.The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one agent for gelling the liquid fatty phase of the composition.
Le gélifiant peut augmenter la viscosité de la phase grasse liquide et peut conduire à une composition solide ou coulable, lors de son introduction dans ladite phase grasse liquide.The gelling agent may increase the viscosity of the liquid fatty phase and may lead to a solid or flowable composition when it is introduced into said liquid fatty phase.
Comme gélifiant éthylénique pouvant être utilisé dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple, le Kraton G 1650 (SEBS), le Kraton G 1651 (SEBS), le Kraton G1652 (SEBS), le Kraton G1657X (SEBS), le Kraton G1701X (SEP), le Kraton G1702X (SEP), le Kraton G1726X (SEB), le Kraton D-I lOl (SBS), le Kraton D-1102 (SBS), le Kraton D-1107 (SIS), le Gelled Permethyl 99A-750, le Gelled Permethyl 99A- 753-58, le Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-59, le Versagel 5970 et le Versagel 5960 (mélange de copolymère tribloc butylène/éthylène/styrène et de copolymère étoile éthylène/propylène/styrène dans l'isododécane) de chez Penreco, et OS 129880, OS 129881 et OS 84383 de chez Lubrizol (copolymère de styrène-méthacrylate).As an ethylenic gelling agent that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of Kraton G 1650 (SEBS), Kraton G 1651 (SEBS), Kraton G1652 (SEBS), Kraton G1657X (SEBS), Kraton G1701X (SEP), Kraton G1702X (SEP), Kraton G1726X (SEB), Kraton DI lOl (SBS), Kraton D-1102 (SBS), Kraton D-1107 (SIS), Gelled Permethyl 99A-750, Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-58, Gelled Permethyl 99A-753-59, Versagel 5970 and Versagel 5960 (blend of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane) from Penreco, and OS 129880, OS 129881 and OS 84383 from Lubrizol (styrene-methacrylate copolymer).
Le gélifiant peut être une argile modifiée. Comme autres gélifiants minéraux, pouvant être utilisés dans l'invention, on peut citer la silice, telle que la silice pyrogénée. La silice pyrogénée peut avoir une taille de particules pouvant être nano métrique ou micrométrique, par exemple allant d'environ 5 nm à 200 irai.The gelling agent may be a modified clay. Other inorganic gelling agents that can be used in the invention include silica, such as fumed silica. The fumed silica may have a particle size which may be nanometric or micrometric, for example from about 5 nm to 200 μm.
Le gélifiant lipophile peut être présent dans la composition selon l'invention en
une teneur allant de 0,05 à 40 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, et mieux de 1 à 15 % en poids.The lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and better still from 1 to 15% by weight.
Huile non volatile La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre une huile non volatile.Non-volatile oil The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « huile non- volatile », une huile ayant une pression de vapeur inférieure à 0,13 Pa. Les huiles non volatiles peuvent être des huiles hydrocarbonées, des huiles siliconées, des huiles fluorées, ou leurs mélanges. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « huile siliconée », une huile comprenant au moins un atome de silicium, et notamment au moins un groupe Si-O.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. The non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or their mixtures. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
On entend par « huile hydrocarbonée », une huile contenant principalement des atomes d'hydrogène et de carbone et éventuellement des atomes d'oxygène, d'azote, de soufre et/ou de phosphore. Comme huile hydrocarbonée non volatile, on peut notamment citer : les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale telles que les esters de phytostéaryle, tels que l'oléate de phytostéaryle, l'isostéarate de phytostéaryle et le glutamate de lauroyl/octyldodécyle/phytostéaryle (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), les triglycérides constitués d'esters d'acides gras et de glycérol dont les acides gras peuvent avoir des longueurs de chaînes variées de C4 à C24, ces dernières pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiées, saturées ou insaturées ; ces huiles sont notamment des triglycérides héptanoïques ou octanoïques, les huiles de germe de blé, de tournesol, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de maïs, d'abricot, de ricin, de karité, d'avocat, d'olive, de soja, d'amande douce, de palme, de colza, de coton, de noisette, de macadamia, de jojoba, de luzerne, de pavot, de potimarron, de courge, de cassis, d'onagre, de millet, d'orge, de quinoa, de seigle, de carthame, de bancoulier, de passiflore, de rosier muscat ; le beurre de karité ; ou encore les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stéarineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810®, 812® et 818® par la société Dynamit Nobel, les éthers de synthèse ayant de 10 à 40 atomes de carbone ;
les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique tels que la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que le Parleam, le squalane et leurs mélanges, et en particulier le polyisobutène hydrogéné, les esters de synthèse comme les huiles de formule RiCOOR2 dans laquelle Ri représente le reste d'un acide linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée notamment ramifiée contenant de 1 à 40 atomes de carbone à condition que Ri + R2 soit > 10.The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and glutamate. lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms ; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, synthetic esters such as formula oils RiCOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is> 10 .
Les esters peuvent être notamment choisis parmi les esters, notamment d'acide gras comme par exemple l'octanoate de cétostéaryle, les esters de l'alcool isopropylique, tels que le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyle, le palmitate de 2-éthyl-hexyle, le stéarate ou l'isostéarate d'isopropyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle, le stéarate d'octyle, les esters hydroxylés comme le lactacte d'isostéaryle, l'hydroxy stéarate d'octyle, l'adipate de diisopropyle, les heptanoates, et notamment l'heptanoate d'isostéaryle, octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, l'octanoate de cétyle, l'octanoate de tridécyle, le 4-diheptanoate et le palmitate d'éthyle 2-hexyle, le benzoate d'alkyle, le diheptanoate de polyéthylène glycol, le diétyl 2-d'hexanoate de propylèneglycol et leurs mélanges, les benzoates d'alcools en Ci2 à C15, le laurate d'hexyle, les esters de l'acide néopentanoïque comme le néopentanoate d'isodécyle, le néopentanoate d'iso tridécyle, le néopentanoate d'isostéaryle, le néopentanoate d'octyldocécyle, les esters de l'acide isononanoïque comme l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l'isononanoate d'isotridécyle, l'isononanoate d'octyle, les esters hydroxylés comme le lactate d'isostéaryle, le malate de di-isostéaryle ; les alcools gras liquides à température ambiante à chaîne carbonée ramifiée et/ou insaturée ayant de 12 à 26 atomes de carbone comme le 2-octyldodécanol, l'alcool isostéarylique, l'alcool oléique, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, et le 2- undécylpentadécano 1.The esters may in particular be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or palmitate. ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactact, hydroxyl stearate octyl, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl-2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, the benzoates of C 1 -C 15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopent acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, iso tridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2- undecylpentadecano 1.
Comme huiles siliconées non volatiles utilisables dans la composition, on peut citer : les polydiméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) non volatiles,
les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle ou alcoxy pendants et/ou en bouts de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant chacun de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone, les silicones phénylées comme les phényl triméthicones, les phényl diméthicones et les phényl triméthylsiloxy diphénylsiloxanes, et leurs mélanges.As non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition, mention may be made of: non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones and phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.
L'huile non volatile peut représenter de 0,1 à 40 % en poids de la composition, notamment de 0,1 à 20 % en poids, en particulier de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, voire moins de 5 % en poids, du poids total de la composition. Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, l'huile non volatile peut être présente dans la composition selon l'invention, en une teneur inférieure à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence inférieure à 3 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement inférieure à 1 % en poids. En particulier, la composition selon l'invention peut être exempte d'huile non volatile.The non-volatile oil may represent from 0.1 to 40% by weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight. , the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention, in a content of less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight. and more preferably less than 1% by weight. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be free of non-volatile oil.
Phase aqueuseAqueous phase
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre une phase aqueuse.The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
La phase aqueuse comprend de l'eau. L'eau peut être une eau florale telle que l'eau de bleuet et/ou une eau minérale telle que l'eau de VITTEL, l'eau de LUCAS ou l'eau de LA ROCHE POSAY et/ou une eau thermale.The aqueous phase comprises water. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.
La phase aqueuse peut également comprendre des solvants organiques miscibles à l'eau (à température ambiante - 25 0C) comme par exemple les monoalcools ayant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone tels que l'éthanol, l'isopropanol ; les polyols ayant notamment de 2 à 20 atomes de carbones, de préférence ayant de 2 à 10 atomes de carbone, et préférentiellement ayant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone, tels que le glycérol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le diéthylène glycol ; les éthers de glycol (ayant notamment de 3 à 16 atomes de carbone) tels que les alkyl(Ci-C4)éther de mono, di- ou tripropylène glycol, les alkyl(Ci- C4)éthers de mono, di- ou triéthylène glycol, le carylyl glycol et leurs mélanges. La phase aqueuse peut comprendre en outre des agents de stabilisation, par exemple le chlorure de sodium, le dichlorure de magnésium et le sulfate de magnésium.The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ether of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, the alkyl (C 1 -C 4) ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol carylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.
La phase aqueuse peut également comprendre tout composé hydrosoluble ou
hydrodispersible compatible avec une phase aqueuse tels que des gélifiants, des polymères filmogènes, des épaississants, des tensioactifs et leurs mélanges.The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble compound or hydrodispersible compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.
De préférence, la phase aqueuse peut être présente dans la composition selon l'invention en une teneur allant de 0,1 à 20 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0,5 à 10 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5 % en poids.Preferably, the aqueous phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight.
Phase pulvérulentePowdery phase
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre une phase pulvérulente notamment choisie parmi les pigments, les nacres et/ou les charges et leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention may comprise a pulverulent phase chosen in particular from pigments, pearlescent agents and / or fillers and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre des pigments.According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise pigments.
Par « pigments », il faut comprendre des particules, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans la phase organique liquide, destinées à colorer et/ou opacifier la composition.The term "pigments" should be understood to mean particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
Les pigments peuvent être des pigments minéraux ou organiques. Comme pigments, on peut utiliser les oxydes métalliques comme les oxydes de fer (notamment ceux de couleur jaune, rouge, brun, noir), les dioxydes de titane, l'oxyde de cérium, l'oxyde de zirconium, l'oxyde de chrome ; le violet de manganèse, l'ultramarine bleue, le bleu de prusse, le bleu outremer, le bleu ferrique et leurs mélanges.The pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, it is possible to use metal oxides such as iron oxides (in particular those of yellow, red, brown or black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide and chromium oxide. ; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue and mixtures thereof.
On utilise de préférence des pigments d'oxydes de fer et/ou de dioxyde de titane.It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide.
Les pigments peuvent être traités avec un agent hydrophobe pour les rendre compatible avec la phase organique de la composition. L'agent de traitement hydrophobe peut être choisi parmi les silicones comme les méthicones, les diméthicones, les perfluoroalkylsilanes ; les acides gras comme l'acide stéarique ; les savons métalliques comme le dimyristate d'aluminium, le sel d'aluminium du glutamate de suif hydrogéné, les perfluoroalkyl phosphates, les perfluoroalkyl silanes, les perfluoroalkyl silazanes, les polyoxydes d'hexafluoropropylène, les polyorganosiloxanes comprenant des groupes perfluoroalkylles perfluoropolyéthers, les acides aminés ; les acides aminés N-acylés ou leurs sels ; la lécithine, le trisostéaryle titanate d'isopropyle, et leurs mélanges.The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
Les acides aminés N-acylés peuvent comprendre un groupe acyle ayant de 8 à
22 atomes de carbones, comme par exemple un groupe 2-éthyl hexanoyle, caproyle, lauroyle, myristoyle, palmitoyle, stéaroyle, cocoyle. Les sels de ces composés peuvent être les sels d'aluminium, de magnésium, de calcium, de zirconium, de zinc, de sodium, de potassium. L'acide aminé peut être par exemple la lysine, l'acide glutamique, l'alanine. Le terme alkyl mentionné dans les composés cités précédemment désigne notamment un groupe alkyle ayant de 1 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence ayant de 5 à 16 atomes de carbone.The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Des pigments traités hydrophobes sont notamment décrits dans la demande EP-A- 1086683. Les pigments peuvent être présents, dans la composition selon l'invention, en une teneur allant de 0,1 à 40 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, en particulier allant de 1 % à 30 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement allant de 5 % à 15 % en poids.Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683. The pigments may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.
Outre les pigments, la phase pulvérulente de la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre des charges et/ou des nacres.In addition to the pigments, the pulverulent phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers and / or nacres.
Outre les pigments, la phase particulaire de la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre des nacres.In addition to the pigments, the particulate phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise nacres.
Par « nacres », il faut comprendre des particules irisées, notamment produites par certains mollusques dans leur coquille ou bien synthétisées, insolubles dans le milieu de la composition.By "nacres", it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition.
Les nacres peuvent être choisies parmi les pigments nacrés blancs tels que l'oxychlorure de bismuth, le mica recouvert de titane, ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, les pigments nacrés colorés tels que le mica titane avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane avec notamment du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane avec un pigment organique du type précité ainsi que les pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth.The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium-coated mica, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with especially ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre des charges.According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers.
Les charges peuvent être minérales ou organiques de toute forme, plaquettaires, sphériques ou oblongues, quelle que soit la forme cristallographique (par exemple feuillet, cubique, hexagonale, orthorombique, etc). On peut citer le talc, le mica, la silice, le kaolin, les poudres de polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® de chez Atochem), de poly-β-alanine et de polyéthylène, les poudres de polymères de tétrafiuoroéthylène (Téfion®), la lauroyl-lysine,
l'amidon, le nitrure de bore, les microsphères creuses polymériques telles que celles de chlorure de polyvinylidène/acrylonitrile comme l'Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), de copolymères d'acide acrylique (Polytrap® de la société Dow Corning) et les microbilles de résine de silicone (Tospearls® de Toshiba, par exemple), les particules de polyorganosiloxanes élastomères, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate et l'hydro-carbonate de magnésium, l'hydroxyapatite, les microsphères de silice creuses (Silica Beads® de Maprecos), les microcapsules de verre ou de céramique, les savons métalliques dérivés d'acides organiques carboxyliques ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone, par exemple le stéarate de zinc, de magnésium ou de lithium, le laurate de zinc, le myristate de magnésium.The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Tefion® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning) and microbeads silicone resin (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads®) of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or of lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.
La charge peut être une poudre de polyuréthane. En particulier, la poudre de polyuréthane n'est pas filmogène, c'est-à-dire qu'elle ne forme pas un film continu lorsqu'elle est déposée sur un support tel que la peau, après avoir été mélangée à un solvant volatile pour permettre son dépôt. Avantageusement, la poudre de polyuréthane est une poudre de copolymère de diisocyanate d'hexaméthylène et de triméthylol hexyl lactone. Une telle poudre de polyuréthane est notamment vendue sous les dénominations « PLASTIC POWDER D- 400 », « PLASTIC POWDER D-800 » par la société TOSHIKI.The filler may be a polyurethane powder. In particular, the polyurethane powder is not film-forming, that is to say that it does not form a continuous film when it is deposited on a support such as the skin, after having been mixed with a volatile solvent to allow its deposit. Advantageously, the polyurethane powder is a copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone. Such a polyurethane powder is sold, for example, under the names "Plastic Powder D-400" and "Plastic Powder D-800" by Toshiki.
Comme autre poudre de polyuréthane, on peut utiliser celle vendue sous la dénomination « PLASTIC POWDER CS-400 » par la société TOSHIKI.As another polyurethane powder, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Plastic Powder CS-400" by Toshiki.
La charge peut être une poudre d'acide aminé N-acylé. Les acides aminés N- acylés peuvent comprendre un groupe acyle ayant de 8 à 22 atomes de carbones, comme par exemple un groupe 2-éthyl hexanoyle, caproyle, lauroyle, myristoyle, palmitoyle, stéaroyle, cocoyle. L'acide aminé peut être par exemple la lysine, l'acide glutamique, l'alanine.The filler may be an N-acylated amino acid powder. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine.
Colorants additionnelsAdditional dyes
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre des colorants additionnels choisis parmi les colorants hydrosolubles et liposolubles. Les colorants hydrosolubles sont par exemple le jus de betterave, le bleu de méthylène, le caramel.The composition according to the invention may comprise additional dyes chosen from water-soluble and liposoluble dyes. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, caramel.
Par colorants liposolubles, il faut comprendre des composés généralement
organiques so lubies dans les corps gras comme les huiles.By fat-soluble dyes, it is necessary to understand compounds which are generally organic so faded in fats like oils.
Les colorants liposolubles sont par exemple le rouge Soudan, le D&C Red n° 17, le D&C Green n° 6, le β-carotène, l'huile de soja, le brun Soudan, le D&C Yellow n° 11, le D&C Violet n° 2, le D&C orange n° 5, le jaune quinoléine, le rocou, les bromoacides.Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Green No. 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow No. 11, D & C Purple No. ° 2, D & C Orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids.
Polymère ou copolymère polyamidePolyamide polymer or copolymer
La composition selon l'invention peut également comprendre au moins un polymère ou copolymère polyamide qui peut être choisi parmi les homopolymères polyamides, les polyamides ramifiés par des chaînes grasses, les polyamides- organosiloxane, les copolymères polyamide-polyester, les copolymères polyamide- polyacrylique, et leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyamide polymer or copolymer which may be chosen from polyamide homopolymers, polyamides branched with fatty chains, polyamides-organosiloxanes, polyamide-polyester copolymers, polyamide-polyacrylic copolymers, and their mixtures.
Comme polymère polyamide utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer les polymères décrits dans la demande EP 1 343 458 dont le contenu est incorporé dans la présente demande par référence, par exemple les résines polyamides résultant de la condensation d'un acide di-carboxylique aliphatique et d'une diamine (incluant les composés ayant plus de 2 groupes carbonyle et 2 groupes aminé), les groupes carbonyle et aminé de motifs unitaires adjacents étant condensés par une liaison amide. Ces résines polyamides sont notamment celles commercialisées sous la marque Versamid® par les sociétés General Mills, Inc. et Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 ou 1655) ou par la société Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., sous la marque Onamid® notamment Onamid S ou C. Ces résines ont une masse moléculaire moyenne en poids allant de 6000 à 9000. Pour plus d'information sur ces polyamides, on peut se référer aux documents US-A-3645705 et US-A-3148125. Plus spécialement, on utilise les Versamid® 930 ou 744. On peut aussi utiliser les polyamides vendus par la société Arizona Chemical sous les références Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) et le produit vendu sous la référence Macromelt 6212 par la société Henkel. Pour plus d'information sur ces polyamides, on peut se référer au document US-A-5500209.As the polyamide polymer that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymers described in the application EP 1 343 458, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference, for example the polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of a dicarboxylic acid. and aliphatic and diamine (including compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amino groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary units being fused by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are especially those marketed under the Versamid® brand by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the trademark Onamid®, in particular Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. For more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-3645705 and US-A-3148125. More especially, Versamid® 930 or 744 are used. The polyamides sold by the company Arizona Chemical can also be used under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662). ) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by Henkel. For more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-5500209.
Comme polymères polyamides utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer les polyamides ramifiés par des chaînes grasses pendantes et/ou des chaînes grasses terminales ayant de 6 à 120 atomes de carbone et mieux de 8 à 120 et notamment de 12 à 68 atomes de carbone, chaque chaîne grasse terminale étant liée au squelette polyamide par au moins
un groupe de liaison en particulier ester. De préférence, ces polymères comportent une chaîne grasse à chaque extrémité du squelette polymérique et en particulier du squelette polyamide. Comme autre groupe de liaison on peut citer les groupes éther, aminé, urée, uréthane, thioester, thiurée, thiouréthane. Ces polymères sont plus spécialement ceux décrits dans le documentAs polyamide polymers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamides branched by pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms. each fatty end chain being bonded to the polyamide backbone by at least a linking group, in particular ester. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polymer backbone and in particular the polyamide backbone. Other linking groups that may be mentioned include ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thiurea and thiourethane groups. These polymers are more especially those described in the document
US-A-5783657 de la société Union Camp. A titre d'exemple, on peut citer les produits commerciaux vendus par la société Arizona Chemical sous les noms Uniclear 80 et Uniclear 100. Ils sont vendus respectivement sous forme de gel à 80 % (en matière active) dans une huile minérale et à 100 % (en matière active). Ils ont un point de ramollissement de 88 à 94 0C. Ces produits commerciaux sont un mélange de copolymères d'un diacide en C36 condensé sur l'éthylène diamine, de masse moléculaire moyenne en poids d'environ 6000. Les groupes ester terminaux résultent de l'estérification des terminaisons d'acide restantes par l'alcool cétylique, stéarylique ou leurs mélanges (appelés aussi alcool cétylstéarylique) . Comme polymère polyamide utilisable dans l'invention, on peut également citer les polyamides comportant au moins un groupe polyorganosiloxane, constitué de 1 à 1000 unités organosiloxanes dans la chaîne principale ou sous forme de greffon. Les polymères sont par exemple ceux décrits dans les documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5,919,444, US-A-6,051,216 US-A-5, 981,680 et WO 04-054524 dont les contenus sont incorporés dans la présente demande par référence.U.S.-A-5783657 from Union Camp. By way of example, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold respectively in the form of an 80% gel (of active ingredient) in a mineral oil and 100 % (in active matter). They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C. These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 di-acid condensed on ethylene diamine, with a weight average molecular weight of approximately 6000. The terminal ester groups result esterification of the remaining acid termini with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also referred to as cetylstearyl alcohol). Polyamide polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyamides comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the main chain or in the form of a graft. The polymers are, for example, those described in US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 444, US-A-6,051,216 US-A-5,981,680 and WO 04-054524, the contents of which are incorporated in the present application. by reference.
A titre d'exemples de polymère utilisable, on peut citer un des polyamides obtenus conformément aux exemples 1 à 3 du document US-A-5 981 680, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la référence DC 2-8179 par Dow Corning.As examples of usable polymer, mention may be made of one of the polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680, such as the product sold under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning.
Le polymère polyamide peut être présent dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 60 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 0,1 % à 50 % en poids, de préférence allant de 0,5 à 40 % en poids, préférentiellement allant de 1 % à 30 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement allant de 1 % à 25 % en poids.The polyamide polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight.
Galéniquegalenic
La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous toute forme acceptable et usuelle pour une composition cosmétique.
L'homme du métier pourra choisir la forme galénique appropriée, ainsi que sa méthode de préparation, sur la base de ses connaissances générales, en tenant compte d'une part de la nature des constituants utilisés, notamment de leur solubilité dans le support, et d'autre part de l'application envisagée pour la composition. Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent être utilisées pour le soin ou le maquillage des matières kératiniques telles que les cheveux, la peau, les cils, les sourcils, les ongles, les lèvres, le cuir chevelu et plus particulièrement pour le maquillage des lèvres, des cils et/ou du visage.The composition according to the invention may be in any form acceptable and customary for a cosmetic composition. Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition. The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly for lip makeup. , eyelashes and / or face.
Elles peuvent donc se présenter sous la forme d'un produit de soin et/ou de maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage, des lèvres, des cils, des sourcils, des cheveux, du cuir cheveu ou des ongles ; d'un produit solaire ou autobronzant ; d'un produit capillaire notamment de coloration, de conditionnement et/ou de soin des cheveux ; elles se présentent avantageusement sous forme de mascara, de rouge à lèvres, de brillant à lèvres (gloss), de fard à joues ou à paupières, de fond de teint.They can therefore be in the form of a care product and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, leather hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning and / or hair care; they are advantageously in the form of mascara, lipstick, lip gloss (gloss), blush or eyelid, foundation.
Ingrédients cosmétiques usuels additionnelsAdditional usual cosmetic ingredients
La composition selon l'invention peut comprendre au moins un autre ingrédient cosmétique usuel pouvant être choisi notamment parmi les antioxydants, les parfums, les conservateurs, les neutralisants, les tensioactifs, les filtres solaires, les vitamines, les hydratants, les composés auto-bronzants, les actifs antirides, les émollients, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les agents anti-radicaux libres, les agents déodorants, les séquestrants, les agents filmogènes, et leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizers, self-tanning compounds. anti-wrinkle active agents, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, deodorant agents, sequestering agents, film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'une résine de silicone liquide dans une composition contenant une huile volatile et une résine solide, telle que par exemple une résine MQ ou une résine triméthylsiloxysilicate, notamment dans les proportions et la constitution chimique décrites ci-avant pour le maquillage des lèvres afin d'améliorer le confort et le glissant à l'application.The invention also relates to the use of a liquid silicone resin in a composition containing a volatile oil and a solid resin, such as for example an MQ resin or a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, especially in the proportions and the chemical constitution described. above for lip makeup to improve comfort and slippery application.
L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de maquillage des matières kératiniques, notamment de la peau du corps ou du visage, des lèvres, des ongles, des cheveux et/ou des cils, comprenant l'application sur lesdites matières d'une composition cosmétique telle que définie précédemment.The subject of the invention is also a process for the makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on the said materials of a composition cosmetic as defined above.
Ce procédé selon l'invention permet notamment le soin ou le maquillage des
lèvres, par application d'une composition de rouge à lèvres ou de brillant à lèvres (gloss) selon l'invention.This process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to care or to make lips, by application of a composition of lipstick or lip gloss (gloss) according to the invention.
L'invention concerne également l'utilisation des compositions décrites précédemment pour le maquillage des lèvres. La présente invention a également pour objet un ensemble cosmétique comprenant : un récipient délimitant au moins un compartiment, ledit récipient étant fermé par un élément de fermeture ; et une composition telle que décrite précédemment disposée à l'intérieur dudit compartiment.The invention also relates to the use of the compositions described above for lip makeup. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising: a container defining at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and a composition as previously described disposed within said compartment.
Le récipient peut être sous toute forme adéquate. Il peut être notamment sous forme d'un flacon, d'un tube, d'un pot, d'un étui, d'une boite, d'un sachet ou d'un boîtier.The container can be in any suitable form. It may especially be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case, a box, a bag or a case.
L'élément de fermeture peut être sous forme d'un bouchon amovible, d'un couvercle, d'un opercule, d'une bande déchirable, ou d'une capsule, notamment du type comportant un corps fixé au récipient et une casquette articulée sur le corps. Il peut être également sous forme d'un élément assurant la fermeture sélective du récipient, notamment une pompe, une valve, ou un clapet.The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a lid, a tearable strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap. on the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, including a pump, a valve, or a valve.
Le récipient peut être associé à un applicateur, notamment sous forme d'une brosse comportant un arrangement de poils maintenus par un fil torsadé. Une telle brosse torsadée est décrite notamment dans le brevet US 4 887 622. Il peut être également sous forme d'un peigne comportant une pluralité d'éléments d'application, obtenus notamment de moulage. De tels peignes sont décrits par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 796 529. L'applicateur peut être sous forme d'un pinceau, tel que décrit par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 722 380. L'applicateur peut être sous forme d'un bloc de mousse ou d'élastomère, d'un feutre, ou d'une spatule. L'applicateur peut être libre (houppette ou éponge) ou solidaire d'une tige portée par l'élément de fermeture, tel que décrit par exemple dans le brevet US 5 492 426. L'applicateur peut être solidaire du récipient, tel que décrit par exemple le brevet FR 2 761 959.The container may be associated with an applicator, particularly in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular from molding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, felt, or spatula. The applicator may be free (puff or sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure member, as described for example in US Patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example the patent FR 2 761 959.
Le produit peut être contenu directement dans le récipient, ou indirectement. A titre d'exemple, le produit peut être disposé sur un support imprégné, notamment sous forme d'une lingette ou d'un tampon, et disposé (à l'unité ou plusieurs) dans une boîte ou dans un sachet. Un tel support incorporant le produit est décrit par exemple dans la
demande WO 01/03538.The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be placed on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a tampon, and arranged (individually or in several) in a box or in a bag. Such a support incorporating the product is described for example in the WO 01/03538.
L'élément de fermeture peut être couplé au récipient par vissage. Alternativement, le couplage entre l'élément de fermeture et le récipient se fait autrement que par vissage, notamment via un mécanisme à baïonnette, par encliquetage, serrage, soudage, collage, ou par attraction magnétique. Par « encliquetage » on entend en particulier tout système impliquant le franchissement d'un bourrelet ou d'un cordon de matière par déformation élastique d'une portion, notamment de l'élément de fermeture, puis par retour en position non contrainte élastiquement de ladite portion après le franchissement du bourrelet ou du cordon. Le récipient peut être au moins pour partie réalisé en matériau thermoplastique.The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, clamping, welding, gluing, or magnetic attraction. By "snapping" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord. The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material.
A titre d'exemples de matériaux thermoplastiques, on peut citer le polypropylène ou le polyéthylène.Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
Alternativement, le récipient est réalisé en matériau non thermoplastique, notamment en verre ou en métal (ou alliage). Le récipient peut être à parois rigides ou à parois déformables, notamment sous forme d'un tube ou d'un flacon tube.Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy). The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube flask.
Le récipient peut comprendre des moyens destinés à provoquer ou faciliter la distribution de la composition. A titre d'exemple, le récipient peut être à parois déformables de manière à provoquer la sortie de la composition en réponse à une surpression à l'intérieur du récipient, laquelle surpression est provoquée par écrasement élastique (ou non élastique) des parois du récipient. Alternativement, notamment lorsque le produit est sous forme d'un stick, ce dernier peut être entraîné par un mécanisme à piston. Toujours dans le cas d'un stick, notamment de produit de maquillage (rouge à lèvres, fond de teint, etc.), le récipient peut comporter un mécanisme, notamment à crémaillère, ou avec une tige filetée, ou avec une rampe hélicoïdale, et apte à déplacer un stick en direction de ladite ouverture. Un tel mécanisme est décrit par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 806 273 ou dans le brevet FR 2 775 566. Un tel mécanisme pour un produit liquide est décrit dans le brevet FR 2 727 609.The container may include means for causing or facilitating the dispensing of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. . Alternatively, especially when the product is in the form of a stick, the latter can be driven by a piston mechanism. Still in the case of a stick, in particular makeup product (lipstick, foundation, etc.), the container may comprise a mechanism, including rack, or with a threaded rod, or with a helical ramp, and able to move a stick towards said opening. Such a mechanism is described, for example, in patent FR 2 806 273 or in patent FR 2 775 566. Such a mechanism for a liquid product is described in patent FR 2 727 609.
Le récipient peut être constitué d'un boîtier avec un fond délimitant au moins un logement contenant la composition, et un couvercle, notamment articulé sur le fond, et apte à recouvrir au moins en partie ledit fond. Un tel boîtier est décrit par exemple dans la demande WO 03/018423 ou dans le brevet FR 2 791 042.
Le récipient peut être équipé d'un essoreur disposé au voisinage de l'ouverture du récipient. Un tel essoreur permet d'essuyer l'applicateur et éventuellement, la tige dont il peut être solidaire. Un tel essoreur est décrit par exemple dans le brevet FR 2 792 618.The container may consist of a housing with a bottom defining at least one housing containing the composition, and a cover, in particular articulated on the bottom, and adapted to cover at least part of said bottom. Such a housing is described for example in the application WO 03/018423 or in the patent FR 2 791 042. The container may be equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
La composition peut être à la pression atmosphérique à l'intérieur du récipient (à température ambiante) ou pressurisée, notamment au moyen d'un gaz propulseur (aérosol). Dans ce dernier cas, le récipient est équipé d'une valve (du type de celles utilisées pour les aérosols).The composition may be at atmospheric pressure inside the container (at room temperature) or pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant (aerosol). In the latter case, the container is equipped with a valve (of the type used for aerosols).
L'invention est illustrée plus en détail dans les exemples suivants.The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
EXEMPLES :EXAMPLES
On a préparé deux rouges à lèvres ayant les compositions suivantes (les teneurs sont exprimées en pourcentage en poids) :
Two lipsticks having the following compositions were prepared (the contents are expressed as percentage by weight):
Mode opératoire :Operating mode:
Les charges et les pigments de la phase E sont broyés dans la moitié de la phase A. La phase B est ensuite dispersée dans l'autre moitié de la phase A. Une fois homogène ce dernier mélange est chauffé à 110 0C, on y ajoute ensuite la phase C, puis la phase D jusqu'à fusion des cires.
On ajoute les charges et pigments broyés et la phase F à la phase grasse à 100 0C.The charges and pigments of phase E are ground in half of phase A. Phase B is then dispersed in the other half of phase A. Once homogeneous, the latter mixture is heated to 110 ° C., then add phase C, then phase D until melting waxes. Crushed fillers and pigments and phase F are added to the fatty phase at 100 ° C.
On coule la composition dans un moule pour lui donner la forme de stick de 8 mm de diamètre. La composition 1 selon l'invention est plus brillante et plus glissante à l'application que la composition 2 comparative.
The composition is poured into a mold to give it the shape of a stick 8 mm in diameter. The composition 1 according to the invention is brighter and more slippery on application than the comparative composition 2.
Claims
1. Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une huile volatile et au moins une résine siliconée solide à 25 0C solubilisée ou dispersée dans ladite huile volatile, la composition contenant en outre une résine siliconée liquide à 25 0C.1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile oil and at least one solid silicone resin at 25 ° C. solubilized or dispersed in said volatile oil, the composition also containing a liquid silicone resin at 25 ° C.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins l'une des deux résines siliconées comporte au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et/ou des radicaux aralkyles.2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one of the two silicone resins comprises at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and / or aralkyl radicals.
3. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la résine siliconée liquide est de viscosité comprise entre 5 et3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid silicone resin has a viscosity of between 5 and
200 000 cSt.200,000 cSt.
4. Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins une huile volatile, et l'association d'une première résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et d'une seconde résine organosiloxane comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles.4. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one volatile oil, and the combination of a first organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and a second organosiloxane resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que lesdites résines comprennent des motifs de formule5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said resins comprise units of formula
(RiR2R3Si0)x(Si04/2)y dans laquelle : x et y sont des entiers ; et(RIR 2 R 3 Si0) x (Si0 4/2) y wherein: x and y are integers; and
R1, R2, R3 représentent indépendamment un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbones, un groupement aryle ou un groupement OH.R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group or an OH group.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 et 5, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins l'une des résines est une résine solide à 25 0C, l'autre étant une résine liquide à 25 0C.6. Composition according to any one of claims 4 and 5, characterized in that at least one of the resins is a solid resin at 25 0 C, the other being a liquid resin at 25 0 C.
7. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 6, caractérisée en ce que la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles est une résine triméthyl-siloxy silicate et en ce que la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles est une résine phénylpropyl-diméthyl-siloxysilicate.7. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals is a trimethylsiloxy silicate resin and in that the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals is a phenylpropyl-dimethylsiloxysilicate resin.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 et 5 à 7, caractérisée en ce que la résine solide est présente en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 1 % à 20 % en poids.8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5 to 7, characterized in that the solid resin is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight.
9. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 et 5 à 7, caractérisée en ce que la résine liquide est présente en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids.9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5 to 7, characterized in that the liquid resin is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight.
10. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 7, caractérisée en ce que la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles est présente en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une teneur allant de 1 % à 20 % en poids.10. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 25% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight.
11. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 7 et 10, caractérisée en ce que la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles est présente en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 30 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence en une teneur allant de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids.11. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7 and 10, characterized in that the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30%. % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight.
12. Composition l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 et 5 à 9, caractérisée en ce que le ratio massique entre la résine liquide et la résine solide est compris entre 1/10 et 4/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 2/1, et plus préférentiellement entre 1/4 et 1/1.12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and 5 to 9, characterized in that the mass ratio between the liquid resin and the solid resin is between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between 1/4 and 1/1.
13. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 7, 10 et 11, caractérisée en ce que le ratio massique entre que la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles et des radicaux aralkyles et la résine comportant au moins un motif siloxysilicate substitué par des radicaux alkyles est compris entre 1/10 et 4/1, de préférence entre 1/4 et 2/1, et plus préférentiellement entre 1/4 et 1/1.13. Composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, 10 and 11, characterized in that the mass ratio between the resin comprising at least one siloxysilicate unit substituted by alkyl radicals and aralkyl radicals and the resin comprising at least a siloxysilicate unit substituted with alkyl radicals is between 1/10 and 4/1, preferably between 1/4 and 2/1, and more preferably between 1/4 and 1/1.
14. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'huile volatile est présente en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence allant de 1 % à 80 % en poids, et préférentiellement allant de 5 % à 70 % en poids. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 70% by weight.
15. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une phase pulvérulente comprenant des pigments, des nacres, des charges ou leur mélange. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a pulverulent phase comprising pigments, pearlescent agents, fillers or their mixture.
16. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est exempte d'huile non volatile.16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of non-volatile oil.
17. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend au moins un polymère ou copolymère polyamide choisi parmi les polyamides-organosiloxanes, et/ou au moins une cire, et/ou au moins un corps gras pâteux.17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one polyamide polymer or copolymer chosen from polyamides-organosiloxanes, and / or at least one wax, and / or at least one pasty fatty substance.
18. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend de l'eau de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et de préférence de 0,5 à 5 % en poids, et plus préférentiellement de 1 à 3 % en poids, voire est exempte d'eau. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises water of 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 3% by weight, or even is free of water.
19. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition est sous forme solide et plus particulièrement, présente une dureté comprise entre 30 et 300 g, voire entre 50 et 250 g, voire entre 70 et 230 g.19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is in solid form and more particularly, has a hardness of between 30 and 300 g, even between 50 and 250 g, or between 70 and 230 g.
20. Procédé de maquillage des matières kératiniques, notamment des lèvres, comprenant l'application sur lesdites matières d'une composition cosmétique telle que définie dans les revendications 1 à 19.20. A process for making up keratin materials, in particular for the lips, comprising applying to said materials a cosmetic composition as defined in claims 1 to 19.
21. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 19, pour obtenir un maquillage confortable, brillant, présentant de bonnes propriétés de non transfert et de tenue dans le temps de la couleur. 21. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, to obtain a comfortable makeup, shiny, having good properties of non-transfer and color retention.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0850081A FR2926022B1 (en) | 2008-01-08 | 2008-01-08 | COSMETIC COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR OF MAKE-UP OF KERATINIC MATERIALS, WITH IMPROVED COSMETIC PROPERTIES. |
FR0850081 | 2008-01-08 | ||
US2040408P | 2008-01-11 | 2008-01-11 | |
US61/020,404 | 2008-01-11 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2009092934A1 true WO2009092934A1 (en) | 2009-07-30 |
Family
ID=39710824
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/FR2009/050013 WO2009092934A1 (en) | 2008-01-08 | 2009-01-07 | Cosmetic composition, in particular makeup composition for keratinic materials, having improved cosmetic properties |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
---|---|
FR (1) | FR2926022B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2009092934A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
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WO2009071662A2 (en) * | 2007-12-05 | 2009-06-11 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition having improved properties |
US20220040054A1 (en) * | 2020-06-24 | 2022-02-10 | L'oreal | Long wear lip cosmetic sytem and topcoat |
Families Citing this family (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2934129B1 (en) | 2008-07-24 | 2014-05-02 | Oreal | COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS. |
FR2964870B1 (en) * | 2010-09-17 | 2012-10-19 | Oreal | SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF MAKE-UP |
FR3052357B1 (en) * | 2016-06-14 | 2019-08-30 | Chanel Parfums Beaute | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SILICONE-POLYURETHANE POLYMER AND A SILICONE RESIN |
FR3061006B1 (en) * | 2016-12-22 | 2020-10-02 | Oreal | SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF A SILICONE POLYAMIDE, A SILICONE RESIN AND A DISPERSE AQUEOUS PHASE |
US10888514B1 (en) * | 2019-09-24 | 2021-01-12 | L'oreal | Cosmetic compositions |
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JPH0624933A (en) * | 1992-03-18 | 1994-02-01 | Isehan:Kk | Finishing cosmetic compounded with solid silicone |
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WO2009071662A2 (en) * | 2007-12-05 | 2009-06-11 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition having improved properties |
WO2009071662A3 (en) * | 2007-12-05 | 2010-03-18 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition having improved properties |
US20220040054A1 (en) * | 2020-06-24 | 2022-02-10 | L'oreal | Long wear lip cosmetic sytem and topcoat |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
FR2926022B1 (en) | 2013-02-15 |
FR2926022A1 (en) | 2009-07-10 |
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