WO2009062804A1

WO2009062804A1 - Hair treatment agent having lychee extract and taurine

Info

Publication number: WO2009062804A1
Application number: PCT/EP2008/063975
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marcus Krueger; Dieter Goddinger
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2007-11-14
Filing date: 2008-10-16
Publication date: 2009-05-22
Also published as: EP2209461A1; DE102007054706A1

Abstract

The invention relates to an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. that is extraordinarily suitable in combination with taurine and/or a derivative of taurine in the context of an oxidative hair treatment for improving the shine of hair, for improving brightness, improving color retention, and protecting hair from UV radiation. By using a method for an oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent comprising at least one oxidizing agent contained in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed from the hair after an exposure time, wherein - immediately before applying the oxidative cosmetic agent, an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. is applied and optionally rinsed out again after an exposure time, and/or - the oxidative cosmetic agent further contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. in combination with taurine, and/or a derivative of taurine, it was possible to easily attain the parameters mentioned above with no adverse influence on the result of the oxidative effect of the agent.

Description

"Hair Treatment with Litchi Extract and Taurine"

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine for improving the finishing of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, for improving the shine of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and to protect the destructuring of keratin fibers, especially human hair, by UV radiation and to maintain hair growth.

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.

Consumers require a cosmetic product to have additional, targeted effects on the substrate in addition to having an excellent effect within its main application. For example, a keratin-containing fiber coloring agent should not only provide excellent coloration as a key parameter, but should also ensure that the fibers are easy to handle after dyeing, are well cared for, protected from environmental influences, and strengthened in the fibrous structure. Cosmetic agents that simultaneously target various parameters of the substrate are generally referred to in this application as a "2-in-1 product." By using a 2-in-1 product, the user saves the annoying multiple applications of a variety of cosmetic products.

The formulation of 2-in-1 products in combination with an oxidative treatment of keratin-containing fibers is difficult for a person skilled in the art. The necessary for the oxidative fiber treatment reactive oxidative ingredients, such as hydrogen peroxide, are not compatible with all cosmetic ingredients and active ingredients. Known cosmetic agents can thus decompose in combination with an oxidizing agent suitable for the oxidative fiber treatment during product storage or during use. The said cosmetic product would thus not fulfill the tasks of a 2-in-1 product. The permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Unfortunately, the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage. In the use of such oxidative hair treatment agents, the convenience of the consumer tends to be overcome by the use of a 2-in-1 product for subsequent applications to conceal the above-mentioned undesirable effects.

According to document US-A-2004/0101508 the extracts of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn are suitable for use in hair care. In particular, the flavone derivatives contained in the extract, and in particular the procyanidolic oligomers, have a favorable effect on the protection of the substrate from UV-A and UV-B radiation and from free radicals.

There is a need to further improve hair care products and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, a care complex should be provided, which can also be used in conjunction with oxidizing agent.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to reduce the previously described side effects of oxidative hair treatments in the context of a 2-in-i product already preferably during the oxidative hair treatment but also after the oxidative hair treatment, without the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with respect to color intensity Color fastness, whitening performance or corrugation, to deteriorate. In addition, in the form of a 2-in-1 product in an application step, the oxidative treatment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with the application of an effective fiber protection from environmental influences, such as UV protection, are connected.

Another object was to make the beneficial effects achieved in the oxidizing agent-containing medium usable outside of the oxidative hair coloring.

It has now surprisingly been found that the object is achieved to a great extent by the use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine. The effect even unfolds during the oxidative hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the composition according to the invention.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine for the equipment keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, with a

UV protection,

to improve the gloss of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

to improve the combability of keratinous fibers, especially human hair,

to improve the grip of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

- To improve the shape keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair.

- To maintain the natural growth of keratinic fibers, especially human hair.

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions , Mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that the consumer, but in particular men often shy away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps, means according to the invention are preferably those means which the consumer, in particular the man applies anyway. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.

The use of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine, can significantly improve the smear. This manifests itself in an improvement in the combability, feel or shape of keratinous fibers, especially human hair.

By combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber. As a measure of the combing used the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective. The measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices. The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the expert sensoryly senses and evaluates the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

By maintaining the natural growth of keratinous fibers, it is understood that the effects on natural hair growth are compensated by hair cosmetic treatments as outlined above, in particular by oxidative hair treatments, and no or at least slight effects on the natural growth of the keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness are present. The growth in thickness, the growth in length or the hair fullness can be determined both subjectively and objectively or in different test models.

In the context of an oxidative hair treatment, the action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.

The extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine, is preferably immediately before, during or after the oxidative hair treatment in the form of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.

As immediately before the oxidative hair treatment is understood in the context of the invention, an application directly followed by the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of the taurine-containing agent previously from Hair was rinsed or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "oxidative hair treatment" is understood as meaning an application which is either directly adjoining the oxidative hair treatment, wherein the extract of the pericap of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with a taurine and / or a derivative of the taurine-containing agent rinsing off the hair dye or bleach or the waving agent is applied to the preferably still wet, towel-dried hair, or only after several hours or days is applied to the dry or wet hair. In both cases, the agent according to the invention can be rinsed out again after a contact time of a few seconds up to 50 minutes or remain completely on the hair.

The extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn is preferably used in a cosmetic carrier. According to the invention, cosmetic creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, for example shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair, are particularly suitable as cosmetic carriers. But it is also conceivable to integrate the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-like formulation, which is dissolved in water before use. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.

An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

In a simultaneous application of the oxidative cosmetic agent and a cosmetic agent containing an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine, both agents, if appropriate, are mixed together just before use, or one after the other without intermediate flushing step be applied to the hair. In a preferred embodiment, the oxidative cosmetic agent used according to the invention therefore additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.

The extracts from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn used according to the invention are obtained from the pericarp (pericarp) of the plant by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof. Preferably suitable organic Solvents are ketones (eg acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols or halogenated hydrocarbons. Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols. Among the alcohols are (C ₁ to C ₆ ) - alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.

The extraction is preferably carried out at a temperature of 25 ⁰ C to 9O ⁰ C.

The pericarp extract of Litchi chinensis Sonn contains flavone derivatives, in particular flavanols, anthocyanins and flavonols. The derivatives are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, wherein the hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton or an oxidation in the 4-position may already be present. Substitution products are understood as meaning those derivatives which carry a hydroxy group or a methoxy group instead of a hydrogen atom. These include in particular flavans, flavan-3-ols (catechols, catechol oligomers), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyanides), flavones, flavonols and flavonones and derivatives thereof. Furthermore, the extract contains condensed tannins, also referred to as procyanidolic oligomers. These are oligomers which are formed in the biosynthesis by condensation of 2 to 8 monomer units of a catechin and / or epicatechin, such as e.g. Procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, oligoprocyanidines, leucoanthocyanidins, leucodelphinins, leucocyanines and anthocyanogens. The extract used according to the invention contains inter alia the proanthocyanidin A2, which is a dimer of the epicatechin having the following structure of the formula (I):

(I) A preferably usable extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, sold under the trade name Litchiderm ^® LS 9704 from Cognis distributed (INCI name (EU): Butylene Glycol, Litchi Chinensis; 0.8 wt .-% of active substance in butylene glycol)..

A second object of the invention are cosmetic compositions containing in a cosmetic

Wear a combination of

(i) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.

(ii) taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.

Preferred cosmetic carriers are those of the first subject of the invention.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention contain the extracted substances from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.2 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.005 to 0.02 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

The extracts from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn have been described in detail above. As a further essential component, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to this extract, taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.

Taurine was first isolated by the chemists Gmelin and Tiedemann from ox gall in 1827 by boiling with water or acid (taurine separates from taurocholic acid) and is first called "gall-asparagine"; The name "taurine" was first coined by Demaray in 1838 and comes from the Latin name "fei tauri" for bull's head or derives from the Greek word "tauros" for bull.

The trivial name "taurine" is doubly occupied in the literature with 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (1.) and (11S) -1-oxoeudesm-4-ene-12,6-α-olide (2.):

In the present invention, taurine means the formula according to 1. In the following, only 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and its derivatives and some other explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurines are discussed. The compound 2. was mentioned only for purposes of clear demarcation. Compounds of this type (2.) are not understood in the present invention to be taurine

1. 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, C ₂ H ₇ NO ₃ S, H 125.14, monoclinic colorless and odorless prisms, mp. 328 ⁰ C, decomposition above 300 ⁰ C. In water very soluble (65 g / L), insoluble in alcohol and diethyl ether. The molecule has two functional groups: an acidic sulfone group (pK _a1 1, 5) and a basic amino group (pK _a2 8,74), the isolectric point is at pH 5, 12.

The industrial synthesis starts from the raw materials ethene, ammonia and sodium sulfite and is shown in the following figure:

Etfcen Ethyi & ioxid 2-Λröoβthano «S-AmsnoethyM -ssdtat

H

wthylenwTiiπ Taunn

Taurine derivatives are taurines which may be substituted at the amino group. In this case, at least one of the hydrogen atoms, two or even all three of the possible hydrogen atoms of the internal salt of the taurine can be substituted independently of one another by at least one C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group or one C 2 -C 6 -hydroxyalkyl group. The C1 to C4 alkyl groups may be saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched. Preferred alkyl substituents are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl or n-hexyl.

Preferred taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine.

Other taurine derivatives also include taurines, which naturally occur as metabolites in plant and / or animal and / or marine organisms. These include, for example, although not preferred, degradation products of cysteine, especially cysteine sulfinic acid. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 15.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 10.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight of taurine and / or of a derivative of taurine.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain taurine and / or derivatives of taurine in the form of natural product extracts obtained from natural products containing taurine or derivatives thereof. On the one hand, animal extracts of the muscle meat, in particular of sheep, pigs and cattle, have proven to be particularly preferred, with extracts from the muscle meat of cattle being especially suitable. Very particular preference is given to extracts of seeds of the legumes and extracts of the prickly pear, Opuntia ficus indica. From fish, sponges and algae, further very particularly preferred extracts with a high content of taurine and / or derivatives of taurine are obtained.

The extracts are obtained by the usual methods known in the art. In the case of taurine and / or its derivatives, extraction with water and water-alcohol mixtures, in particular with ethanol, propanol or butanol as extractant, is preferred.

Agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one extract of animal muscle tissue, of seeds of legume or of prickly pear, and of sponges and algae. At least one extract of seeds of legumes, algae, sponges or prickly pears is particularly preferably contained.

Regardless of whether extracts are used as described above, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain the said extract (s) in amounts of 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use the agent according to the invention in the context of a color change of the hair. In particular, the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the compositions of the invention is excellent even in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agents according to the invention are different from atmospheric oxygen and have such an oxidation potential that makes it possible to link disulphide bridges within or between the proteins of the hair keratin, oxidatively lighten the natural color pigment melanin and / or to oxidize a developer-type oxidation dye precursor.

The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds, such as, for example, sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate,

Sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone n H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide in question.

According to the invention, the oxidative cosmetic agent can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which activates the oxidation of the substrate, such as, for example, oxidation dye precursors or melanin. Such catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.

Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of a color can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

Suitable enzymes are e.g. Peroxidases that can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention, which generate with the aid of atmospheric oxygen in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors in this way. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, e.g. Pyranose oxidase and e.g. D-glucose or galactose,

Glucose oxidase and D-glucose, glycerol oxidase and glycerin,

Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts, - alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH), Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and its salts, tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine, uricase and uric acid or their salts, choline oxidase and choline, amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

The oxidizing agent is preferably contained in an amount of from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent.

For the purpose of color change, the cosmetic agents additionally preferably contain at least one color-modifying component. According to task u.a. Improves the authenticity of the color obtained against environmental influences.

The color-changing component is again preferably selected

(A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or

(b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or

(e) at least one bleach booster.

As developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with another, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used ,

It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)

in which

G ¹ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci to _C4) alkyl, a (Ci to C ₄₎ - monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (Ci-C ₄₎ alkoxy- (C to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl radical; G ² represents a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkoxy - (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical which is substituted by a nitrogen-containing group;

G ³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to alkoxy Acetylaminoalkoxyrest, a Mesylamino- (C-ι-C ₄₎ or a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ - C ₄₎ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ -Hydroxyalkoxyrest, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ - carbamoylaminoalkoxy radical;

G ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical or, when G ³ and G ⁴ are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging α, ω-alkylenedioxo group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group ,

Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines of formula (E1) are selected from one or more compounds of the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine , 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine , N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N Bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, A-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N Dimethyl 3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-) Methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-diaminobenzo-1, 4-dioxane, and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Very particularly preferred according to the invention p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (ß-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, ß-dihydroxyethyl) - p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine , as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups.

Among the binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:

in which:

Z ¹ and Z ² independently of one another represent a hydroxyl or NH ₂ radical which is optionally substituted by a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, by a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridging Y or which is optionally part of a bridging ring system, the bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring, which is one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen , Sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be interrupted or terminated and may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or (C ₁ to C ₈ ) alkoxy, or a direct bond,

G ⁵ and G ⁶ independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) - Polyhydroxyalkyl, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -Anninoalkylrest or a direct compound to

Bridging Y,

G ⁷ , G ⁸ , G ⁹ , G ¹⁰ , G ¹¹ and G ¹² independently represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl radical, with the proviso that the compounds of the Formula (E2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule.

The substituents used in formula (E2) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

Preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are in particular selected from at least one of the following compounds: N, N'-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) - tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine , N, N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) -ethylenediamine, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1, 10-bis - (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Very particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol , Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)

in which: G ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) Alkoxy (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di- [(C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl] amino) - (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, and G ¹⁴ represents a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -Alkoxy- (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -cyanoalkyl radical, G ¹⁵ is hydrogen, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) Alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and G ¹⁶ is Was or a halogen atom.

The substituents used in formula (E3) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

Preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are, in particular, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4 -Amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino -2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2 -chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Very particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol and 4-amino 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -phenol.

Further, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E4) or their physiologically tolerated salts,

wherein

G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ and G ¹⁹ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkoxy group or an amino group and

G is a hydroxy group or a group -NG G wherein G and G are independently hydrogen, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl group, provided that a maximum of two of the groups of G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G ^{20 is} a hydroxy group and at most two of the radicals G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ and G ^{19 are} a hydrogen atom. In this case, it is again preferred if, according to formula (E4), at least two groups of G ¹⁷ , G ¹⁸ , G ¹⁹ and G stand for a group -NG G and at most two groups of G, G, G and G represent a hydroxy group.

Particularly preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetra-aminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4 , 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

Preferred pyrazole derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E5),

wherein

G ^23, G ^24, G ²⁵ are each independently a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ - alkyl group, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ monohydroxyalkyl, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ alkyl group -Polyhydroxy-, an optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted aryl- (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkyl group, with the proviso that when G ^{25 is} a Is hydrogen, G ^{26 in} addition to the aforementioned groups additionally for a group -

NH ₂ can stand,

G ²⁶ represents a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -

Monohydroxyalkyl group or a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) polyhydroxyalkyl group and

G ²⁷ represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted aryl group, a (C ₁ to

C ₄ ) alkyl group or a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -Monohydroxyalkylgruppe, in particular for a

Hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

Preferably in formula (E5) the radical -NG ²⁵ G ²⁶ binds to the 5 position and the radical G ²⁷ to the 3 position of the pyrazole cycle.

Particularly preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5- Diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3 phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4 5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4.5 Diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4, 5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5- (β-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, and their physiological compatible salts.

Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E6) and their tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:

in which:

G, G and G, G independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) - Polyhydroxyalkyl radical is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) - Aminoalkyl radical, which may be optionally protected by an acetyl ureide or a sulfonyl residue, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ alkylamino (Ci to _C4) alkyl, a di - [(d to _C4) - alkyl] - (d to C ₄ ) -anninoalkyl radical, wherein the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl or a di [(d to C ₄ ) -Hydroxyalkyl] - (C-ι to C ₄ ) aminoalkyl radical, the X radicals independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) - alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl, a (C ₂ to C ₄₎ - polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ aminoalkyl radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄₎ alkylamino (C ₁ to C ₄₎ alkyl, a DK ( C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl] - (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl or a DK (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an amino radical, a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl or DK (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino radical, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group,

- i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3, p has the value 0 or 1, q has the value 0 or 1 and n has the value 0 or 1, with the proviso that the sum of p + q is not equal to 0 is

if p + q equals 2, n has the value 0, and the groups NG ²⁸ G ²⁹ and NG ³⁰ G ³¹ occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);

if p + q is 1, n is 1, and the groups NG ²⁸ G ²⁹ (or NG ³⁰ G ³¹ ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);

The substituents used in formula (E7) are defined according to the invention analogously to the above statements.

When the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (E6) contains a hydroxy group at one of the 2, 5 or 7 positions of the ring system, there is a tautomeric equilibrium shown, for example, in the following scheme:

Among the pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E7) may be mentioned in particular:

Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

2,5-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;

2,7-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;

3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;

3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;

2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;

2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;

2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;

2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;

5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;

3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine; and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when a tautomeric equilibrium is present.

The pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E6) can be prepared as described in the literature by cyclization from an aminopyrazole or from hydrazine.

Very particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) - methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis- (2, 5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, A-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrinnidine , 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrinnidine, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

The following are examples of the substituents of the compounds of the formulas (E1) to

(E6) radicals are mentioned: examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH ₃ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

- (- / H ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkoxy radicals according to the invention are -OCH ₃ , -OCH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OCH (CH ₂ ) ₂ , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , in particular a methoxy or an ethoxy group.

Furthermore, as preferred examples of a (C 1 to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkyl group, -CH ₂ OH,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHCH (OH) CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, where the group

-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH is preferred.

A particularly preferred example of a (C ₂ to C ₄ ) polyhydroxyalkyl group is 1, 2

Dihydroxyethyl.

Examples of halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred examples.

Examples of nitrogen-containing groups are in particular -NH ₂ , (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -

Monoalkylamino groups, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -dialkylamino groups, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -

Trialkylammonium groups, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkylamino groups, imidazolinium and

NH ₃ ⁺ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -monoalkylamino groups are -NHCH ₃ , -NHCH ₂ CH ₃ , -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ ,

-NHCH (CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -dialkylamino group are -N (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -N (CH ₂ CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) trialkylammonium groups are -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ (CH ₂ CH ₃ ),

-N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) (CH ₂ CH ₃ ) ₂ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkylamino radicals are -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH,

-NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁ -NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -alkyl groups are the groups -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₃ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH (CH ₃ ),

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -O-CH (CH ₃ ).

Examples of hydroxy (C 1 -C ₄ ) -alkoxy radicals are -O-CH ₂ OH, -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH,

-0-CHCH (OH) CH _3, -0-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH. Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ , -O-

CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ ,

-O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃₁ -O-CH ₂ CH (NHC (O) CH ₃ ) CH ₃₁ -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHC (O) CH ₃ .

Examples of (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -carbamoylanninoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH-C (O) -NH ₂ ,

-O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH-C (O) -NH ₂₁ -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -NH-C (O) -NH ₂ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radicals are -CH ₂ NH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ ,

-CH ₂ CH (NH ₂ ) CH ₃₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -cyanoalkyl radicals are -CH ₂ CN, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CN, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CN.

Examples of (C 1 to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkylamino (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl radicals are -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH ₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH.

Examples of di [(Ci to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino- (Ci to C ₄ ) -alkyl radicals are

CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂ ,

-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂₁ -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ N (CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH) ₂ ,

An example of aryl groups is the phenyl group.

Examples of aryl (C 1 to C ₄ ) alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.

As coupler components m-Phenylendianninderivate, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds are usually used.

Preferred coupler components according to the invention are m-aminophenol and its derivatives, for example 5-amino-2-naphthylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-naphthylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2 6-dimethyl-3-anninophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-naphthylphenol, 5-amino-4-niethoxy-2-naphthylphenol, 5- (2'-methyl) Hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-naphthylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylannino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-naphthylphenol and 2,4 Dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as, for example, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis- (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1- Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-ethylbenzene , 2 - ({3 - [(2-Hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} -annino) ethanol, 2- ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenol yl} annino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4- ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine and 1-amino-3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4 Diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,

Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine , 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylannino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy 4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,

Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1 , 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,

Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,

Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, pyrimidine derivatives such as For example, 4,6-diaminopyrinnidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrinnidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrinnidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-naphthylpyrinnidine, 2-amino-4-hydroxy 6-methylpyrinnidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrinnidine, or methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-ethylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino 3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1, 5, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-naphthylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol , 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-anninophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably contain the developer components in an amount of from 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably contain the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent.

The composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte at least one combination of at least one compound of the component

1 compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with at least one compound of the component

2 compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds containing primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds.

Compounds according to the invention having a reactive carbonyl group (also referred to below as reactive carbonyl compounds or component 1) have at least one carbonyl group as reactive group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present. These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with a) amines and their derivatives to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.

Component 1 is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3 Hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-dihydroxyacetophenone Trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trimeth- oxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, A-hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylanninoacetophenone, 4-morpholinoacetophenone, 4-piperidinoacetophenone, A-imidazolinoacetophenone, 2-hydroxy-5-bromo-acetophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroacetophenone, acetophenone-2-carboxylic acid, acetophenone-4-carboxylic acid, benzophenone, A-

Hydroxybenzophenone, 2-aminobenzophenone, 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4,4'-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-1-acetonaphthone, 1-hydroxybenzophenone 2-acetonaphthone, chromone, chromone-2-carboxylic acid, flavone, 3-hydroxyflavone, 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone, quercetin, 1-indanone, 9 Fluorenone, 3-hydroxyfluorenone, anthrone, 1,8-dihydroxyanthrone, vanillin, coniferylaldehyde, 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 3-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3 -dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, A-hydroxy-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methylbenzaldehyde, 4 Hydroxy-2,3-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6-dimethylbenzaldehyde, A-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy -3,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 3,5-diethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 2,6-diethoxy-4-hy hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dimethoxbenzaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4- Dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2, 5,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, A-dimethyl-amine inbenzaldehyde, 4-diethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylannino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-pyrrolidinobenzaldehyde, A-

Morpholinobenzaldehyde, 2-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 4-piperidinobenzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3- 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-cinnamaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxy-4 hydroxy-cinnamic aldehyde, 4-dimethyl-amino-tin-aldehyde, 2-dimethyl-aminobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethyl-2-aminobenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-tin-aldehyde, 4-dibutylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diphenylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminocarboxy 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4- (1-imidazolyl) -benzaldehyde, piperonal, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, 2,3,6,7 -Tetrahydro-8-hydroxy-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, N-ethylcarbazole-3-aldehyde, 2-formyln-ethylene-1,3,3-trinnethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde),

2-indolaldehyde, 3-indolaldehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 1-acetylindole-3-aldehyde, 3-acetylindole, 1-methyl-3-acetylindole, 2- (1 ', 3 ', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) -acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2-aldehyde, 1-methyl-2-acetylpyrrole, 4-pyridine aldehyde, 2-pyridine aldehyde, 3-pyridine aldehyde, 4-acetylpyridine, 2-acetylpyridine , 3-acetylpyridine, pyridoxal, quinoline-3-aldehyde, quinoline-4-aldehyde, antipyrin-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitrofurfural, 2-thenoyl-trifluoro-acetone, chromon-3-aldehyde, 3- (5 ' Nitro-2'-furyl) acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) acrolein and imidazole-2-aldehyde, 1, 3-diacetylbenzene, 1, 4-diacetylbenzene, 1, 3,5-triacetylbenzene, 2- Benzoyl-acetophenone, 2- (4'-methoxybenzoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-furoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone and 2- (3'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone,

Benzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-dimethylanninobenzylideneacetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4- Diethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3-benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylanninobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclohexanone, 2- (4 '-Hydroxybenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethylanninobenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2-benzylidene-1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexanedione, 3- ( 4'-dimethylanninobenzylidene) -1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidene-5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2 - (4'-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclopentanone , 2 '- (4-hydroxybenzylidene) -cycl opentanone, 2- (4'-dimethylanninobenzylidene) cyclopentanone, 5- (4-dimethylanninophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-methoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (3,4-

Dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-

Piperidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-morpholinophenyl) -penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-

Pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 6- (4-dimethylanninophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3 , 5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-piperidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-morpholinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- ( 4 Pyrrolidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 5- (4-dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3,5-dienal, 2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-3 -nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-hydroxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-fluoro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde , 3-methoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-6-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2,4-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2.6 Dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4,5-dimethoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropiperonal, 5-nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3-nitrosalicylaldehyde , 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid, 4-nitro-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 3-nitrocinnamaldehyde, A-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 9-methyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 9-ethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 3-acetylcarbazole, 3 , 6-Diacetyl-9-ethylcarbazole, S-acetyl-θ-methylcarbazole, 1,4-dimethyl l-3-carbazolaldehyde, 1, 4,9-trimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 4-formyl-1-naphthylpyridine, 2-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, A-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1 -ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1 methylquinoline, 2-formyl-1-methylquinoline, 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-nichethylquinoline, 6 Formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-nichethylquinoline, 8-formyl-1-methylquinoline, 5-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-ethylquinoline, 7-formyl-1-ethylquinoline, , 8-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-benzylquinolinyl, 6-formyl-1-benzylquinoliniunono, 7-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzylquinolinone, 5-formyl-1-one allylquinoline, 6-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 7-formyl-i-allylquinoliniunn, and 8-formyl-i-allylquinolinol, 5-acetyl 1-methylquinolinium, 3-acetyl-1-methylquinoline, 7-acetyl-1-methylquinoline, 8-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, S-acetyl-1-ethylquinoline, θ-acetyl-1-ethylquinoline, 7 Acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-ethylquinoline, S-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinyl, 6-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinyl , 5-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, θ-acetyl-1-allylquinoline, 7-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and 8-acetyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 9-formyl-1-methylacridinol, 4- (2 ' -Formylvinyl) -1-methylpyridinium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -benzinnidazolinyl, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -imidazolium, 2- (4 ' -Formylphenyl) -3-n-ethylbenzothiazolines, 2- (4'-acetylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolines, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzoxazolines, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) 3-ethylbenzothiazolinyl, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolinyl, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-thienyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolinyl, 2- (3'-methyl) formylphenyl) -3-nne ethylbenzothiazolinyl, 2- (4'-formyl-1-naphthyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolinyl, 5-chloro-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolinyl, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3, 5-dinethylbenzothiazolium salts, preferably with benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethanesulfonate or tetrafluoroborate as counterion, isatin, 1-methylisatin, 1-allyl isatin, 1-hydroxymethyl-isatin, 5-chloro-isatin, 5-methoxy-isatin, 5-nitro-isatin, 6-nitro-isatin, 5-sulfo-isatin, 5-carboxy-isatin, quinisatin, 1-methyl-quinisatin, and any mixtures of the above compounds.

As CH-acidic compounds are generally considered to carry a bound to an aliphatic carbon atom hydrogen atom, wherein due to electron-withdrawing substituents activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond is effected. According to the invention, CH-acidic compounds also include enamines which are formed by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with a CH-acidic alkyl group in conjugation with the quaternary nitrogen.

The CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3-acetic acid, 1, 4-

Dimethylquinolinium iodide, 1, 2-dimethylquinolinium iodide, barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylbarbituric acid, oxindole, 3-indoxylatoacetate, 2-coumaranone, 5-hydroxybenzoic acid 2-cumaranone, 6-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazolin-5-one, indan-1, 2-dione, indan-1, 3-dione, indan-1-one, benzoylacetonitrile, 3-dicyanomethylenedan-1-one, 2-amino-4-imino-1,3-thiazoline hydrochloride, 5,5-dimethylcyclohexane-1,3-dione, 2H-1,4-benzoxazin-4H-3-one, 3-ethyl-2-methyl-benzoxazolium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium iodide, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium iodide, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium iodide, 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum iodide, 3-ethyl 2-methylbenzoxazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, and 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum p-toluenesulfonate.

Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2.5- Dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4- aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminophenol, 2,5-diaminoanisole, 2,5, diaminophenethol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- 2,5-diaminophenyl) -ethanol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-hydroxybenzoyl) ethyloxy) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 4-methylaminophenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-methyl- 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) phenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-naphthylphenol, 2-methyl-5-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-n-methoxy-2-naphthylphenol , 4-amino-2-hydroxynethylphenol, 2-

(Diethylaminomethyl) -4-anninophenol, 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-methylbenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-6- ethylbenzene, 2-amino-5-acetanediophenol, 1,3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, N, N-dimethyl-3-anninophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-anninophenol, 5-amino-4-fluoro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-5-fluorotoluene, 2,4-diamino-5- (2 -hydroxyethoxy) -toluene, 2,4-diamino-5-naphthylphenol, 3,5-diamino-2-nnethoxy-1-naphthylbenzene, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole, 2,6-bis- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 1, 3-diamino-2,4-demethoxybenzene, 3,5-diamino-2-nnethoxy-toluene, 2-aminobenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, A-aminobenzoic acid, 2- Aminophenylacetic acid, 3-aminophenylacetic acid, 4-aminophenylacetic acid, 2,3-diaminobenzoic acid, 2,4-diaminobenzoic acid, 2,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-aminosalicylic acid, 5-aminosalicylsä acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, A-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene 1-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino-4-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid, 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1, 3,5-triaminobenzene, 1, 2,4-triaminobenzene, 1, 2,4,5-tetraaminobenzene, 2,4,5-triaminophenol, pentaaminobenzene, hexaaminobenzene, 2, 4,6-triaminoresorcinol, 4,5-diaminobrencatechin, 4,6-diaminopyrogallol, 1- (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) -2-imidazolidinone, 4-amino-2 - ((4 - [(5-aminobenzyl) 2-hydroxyphenyl) ethyl] piperazinyl) methyl) phenol, 3,5-diamino-4-hydroxy-catechol, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, A-diazacycloheptane, aromatic nitriles such as 2-amino-4 -hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-amino-2-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-aminobenzonitrile, 2,4-diaminobenzonitrile, nitro group N-containing amino compounds such as 3-amino-6-methylannino-2-nitro-pyridine, picric acid, [8 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) -azo] -7-hydroxy-naphth-2-yl] - trimethylannonium chloride, [8 - ((4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo) -7-hydroxy-naphth-2-yl] -trimethyl-ammonium chloride (Basic Brown 17), 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene , 1-amino-2-nitro-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -annino] -benzene, 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1-Amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-chloro-5-nitro-N-2-hydroxyethyl-1,4-phenylenediamine, 1- [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitro-4-aminobenzene (HC Red # 3), 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrophenol, 6-nitro-o-toluidine, 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) -annino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 1-amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] 5-chlorobenzene (HC Red No. 10), 2- (4-amino-2-nitroanilino) benzoic acid, 6-nitro-2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2- (3-nitrophenylazo) -7-phenylazo-8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Acid blue No. 29), 1-amino-2- (2-hydroxy-4-nitrophenylazo) - 8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (palatinchrome green), 1-amino-2- (3-chloro-2-hydroxy-5-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (gallium), 4 -Amino-4'-nitrostilbene-2,2'-disulphonic acid disodium salt, 2,4-diamino-3 ', 5'-dinitro-2'-hydroxy-5-methylazobenzene (Mordant brown 4), 4'-amino 4-nitrodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4'-amino-3'-nitrobenzophenone-2-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-4-nitro-2- (2-nitrobenzylideneamino) -benzene, 2- [2- (diethylamino) ethylamino ] -5-nitroaniline, 3-amino-4-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-3'-nitrobiphenyl, 3-amino-4-nitro-acenaphthene, 2-amino-1-nitronaphthalene, 5-amino 6-nitrobenzo-1,3-dioxole, anilines, in particular nitro-group-containing anilines, such as 4-nitroaniline, 2-nitroaniline, 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1, 2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1 Amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 4-nitro-1,3-phenylenediamine min, 2-nitro-4-amino-1- (2-hydroxy-roxyethylamino) -benzene, 2-nitro-1-amino-4-bis [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] benzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-5-chloro-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, aromatic anilines or phenols with another aromatic radical, such as are shown in the formula II

in the

• R ⁷ represents a hydroxy or an amino group represented by CI_ ₄ alkyl, Ci. ₄ -Hydroxyalkyl-, d- ₄ - alkoxy- or C- |. ₄ -alkoxy-C- |. _4- alkyl groups may be substituted,

• R ^8, R ^9, R ^10, R ¹¹ and R ¹² independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy or an amino group by C ₄ alkyl, dC ₄ hydroxyalkyl, Ci-C ₄ -AIkOXy-, dC ₄ - can be substituted aminoalkyl or Ci-C ₄ -alkoxy-Ci-C ₄ -alkylgruppen, and

P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group having the formula IM

-Q '- (CH ₂ -Q-CH ₂ -Q ") _O - (III)

in the

Q signifies a direct bond, a CH ₂ or CHOH group, • Q 'and Q "are each independently an oxygen atom, an NR ¹³ group wherein R ¹³ is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group CI_ ₄ alkyl or a hydroxy-CI_ _4, wherein both groups together with the remainder of the molecule a 5- , 6- or 7-membered ring, means the group O- (CH ₂ ) _P -NH or NH- (CH ₂ ) _P -O, wherein p and p 'are 2 or 3, and

O is a number from 1 to 4,

such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulphonic acid mono- or di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfoxide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, 4,4 ' - Diaminodiphenylether, 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraamino-benzophenone, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1, 8-bis - (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) propane, 1,1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) -2-propanol, 1, 3 Bis- [N- (4-aminophenyl) -2-hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis [2- (4-aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine, N-phenyl-1,4-phenylenediamine and bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane.

The abovementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, in particular as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid.

Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy 3,5-diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl-pyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5- amino-2-pyridyl) amine, N- [2- (4-aminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-pyridyl) amine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4, 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-methylamino-4, 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diaminopyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methoxy-6-methyl-pyrimidine, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1, 2,4- triazole, 3-aminopyrazole, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 1-phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-4,5- diaminopyrazole, 4-amino-2, 3-dimethyl-1-phenyl-3-pyrazolin-5-one (4-aminoantipyrine), 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-aminoquinoline, 3-aminoquinoline, 8-aminoquinoline, 4-aminoquinaldine , 2-aminonicotinic acid, 6-aminonicotinic acid, 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5- Aminoindazole, 6-aminoindazole, 5-aminobenzinnidazole, 7-aminobenzinnidazole, 5-aminobenzothiazole, 7-aminobenzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholino-aniline and also indole and indoline derivatives, such as 4-aminoindole, 5- Aminoindole, 6-aminoindole, 7-aminoindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4-hydroxyindoline. Furthermore, as heterocyclic compounds according to the invention can be used in DE-U1-299 08 573 disclosed hydroxypyrimidines. The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.

Suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3 Dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-phenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4 , 6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyace- tophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-dimethylamino-4 -hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid and 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid.

The compounds of component 1 and the compounds of component 2 are preferably used in the cosmetic compositions in each case in an amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based on 100 g of the total Nuanciermittels used. The molar ratio of the compound of component 1 and the compound of component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably using equimolar amounts. The ready-to-use agent is prepared by separate mixing of components 1 and 2 immediately prior to application.

As precursors of naturally-analogous dyes, preference is given to using, as oxidizing dye precursor of the developer type, indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups may carry further substituents, e.g. Example in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. In a second preferred embodiment, the colorants contain at least one indole and / or indoline derivative.

Particularly suitable precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),

in the independently of each other

R ¹ is hydrogen, a C ¹ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C ¹ -C ₄ -hydroxy-alkyl group,

R ² is hydrogen or a -COOH group, wherein the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,

R ³ is hydrogen or a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group,

R ⁴ is hydrogen, a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group or a group -CO-R ⁶ , in which R ⁶ is a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group, and

R ⁵ represents one of the groups mentioned for R ^4, and physiologically compatible salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.

Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline,

N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and especially 5, 6-Dihydroxyindolin.

Also suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of the 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IVb),

R ¹ (IVb) in the independently of each other

R ¹ is hydrogen, a C ¹ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a C 1 -C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group,

R ³ is hydrogen or a C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl group,

Particularly preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6- dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Emphasized within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, and especially the 5,6 -Dihydroxyindol.

Preferred substantive dyes which are used in the cosmetic compositions as color-modifying component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 well-known compounds as well 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro 2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine 2'-carbo acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Further, the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(c) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned, for example, in EP-A2-998 908, which is incorporated herein by reference, in claims 6 to 11.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:

CH ₃ SO ₄ ^"

Cl ^"

(DZ3)

The compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The cosmetic compositions contain the substantive dyes preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use agent.

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, seder and alkano root are included.

It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the cosmetic products, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of the cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

The actual oxidative colorant is prepared by separate storage of the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before use by mixing. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent is therefore mixed before application from a composition comprising at least one color-modifying component in a cosmetic carrier and a further composition containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier.

When using oxidizing agents, the ready-to-use composition is conveniently prepared immediately prior to use by mixing a composition containing the oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing components. The resulting ready-to-use hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10.

For a color change by means of brightening or bleaching of the hair, in addition to the oxidizing agents, at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Bleach boosters are preferably used in bleaching agents for increasing the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide.

As bleach amplifiers, it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry O- and / or N-acyl groups of the stated C atom number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylene diamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, especially tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5- diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran. As bleach booster, carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts can preferably be used according to the invention. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate,

Sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.

As bleach booster of the type of monoalkyl carbonates and their derivatives, at least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention. Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),

R-O-C-O-H (V)

O

in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (V), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a Ci_ ₆ alkyl group. Examples of C 1 -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (V) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl - As well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

As an alternative to the carbonic acid monoester or in conjunction with it, carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. Here it is According to the invention, preference is given to using at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI)

R-NH-C-O-H (VI)

O in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (VI), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably R is a C-. _6- alkyl group. Examples of C 1 -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Bleach enhancers of the formula (VI) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (VI) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl , tert-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

The acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide may also be in neutralized form, i. salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides can also be used according to the invention. Carbonic acid monoesters or the carbonic acid monoamides which are present in completely or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its sodium salt, are preferred according to the invention.

As bleach boosters of the type of silyl carbonates and derivatives thereof, at least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention. Preference is given to using silyl carbonates of the formula (VII)

R ² R ¹ -Si-OCOR ⁴ (VII)

R ³ O

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R ^{4 is} a chemical bond to the Si atom or one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² or R ³ , is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or Aluminylgruppe or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

Preferred radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among these, the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in formula (VII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, terf-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred radicals R ⁴ in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.

As bleach booster, at least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention,

R ^z

R ¹ -Si-OC-NR ⁴ R ⁵ (VI II) R ³ O where the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or for a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R ¹ , R ² or R ³ , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted SiIyI or Aluminylgruppe or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubsti tuierten heterocycle stand.

Preferred radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among them, the alkyl groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl groups are preferred, so that compositions preferably used are characterized in that the groups R ¹ , R ² and R ³ in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n Propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, terf-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.

As further additional bleach boosters, in the compositions according to the invention preferably at least one compound selected from acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid may be contained.

Bleach amplifiers are preferably peroxo compounds. Among the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself. Moreover, the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (in particular

Ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxydisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxydiphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Among these peroxo compounds, which are also used in combination can be, according to the invention, the inorganic compounds are preferred. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate.

The bleach boosters are present in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 5-30% by weight, in particular in amounts of 8-20% by weight.

The cosmetic agents of the invention, when acting as a bleaching agent, contain as preferred alkalizing agent at least one compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarboxylates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.

The cosmetic agents used in the process according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations:

The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.

In many cases, the agents contain at least one surface-active substance, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surface-active substances being suitable in principle. The choice of surfactants depends on the nature of the agent. In the case of a shampoo, in particular at least one surfactant is selected from the group of anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surface-active substances. It is preferred here that at least one anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active substance is chosen. These surface-active substances are particularly preferably selected from the group of particularly mild surface-active substances. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. The ratio between anionic and zwitterionic surface-active substances is between 10: 1 and 1: 5. The ratio is particularly preferably 5: 1 to 1: 2.

If the agent is a hair conditioning composition, cationic and / or nonionic surfactants are preferably selected as surfactants. Again, a selection of the so-called mild surface-active substances is particularly preferred. The surfactants essentially comprise two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.

The term surfactants (T) is understood to mean surface-active substances which form adsorption layers at the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. The following surfactants are exclusively known compounds. Regarding the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews.

Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, Mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C Atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. B. consisting of coconut oil fatty acid available C ₁₂ - C ₁₈ -Fettsäurefraktion used, obtained according to the invention preferably suitable C ₁₂ - C ₁₈ acyl isethionates. It is known that sodium salts of C ₁₂ - to bring isethionates similar to soap based on fatty acid by kneading, milling, plodding, extruding, cutting and bar pressing into a form suitable for transport and for use - C _eighteenth In this way, needles, granules, noodles or bars can be produced. One application of the acyl isethionates are toilet soap pieces and syndets,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation. linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and salts thereof,

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _p - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _z -CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H, and / or

CH ₃ - (CH ₂ ) _y - (CH-SO ₃ M) - (CH ₂ ) _p -CHOH- (CH ₂ ) _z - CH ₂ -O- (C _n H _2n O) _x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2, and the sum (y + z + p) is a number from 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M is H or alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc and / or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions having C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers of the formula R ¹ - (CHOSO ₃ M) -CHR ³ - (OCHR ⁴ -CH ₂ ) n -OR ² with R ¹ , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ² for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ³ is hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R ^{4 is} hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, in which the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 C atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and nf r is a number ranging from 0 to 12, and further are the total number of C atoms from 2 to 44 contained in R ¹ and R ³ is,

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O ) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a Ci to C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical, is, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AIkO) _n SO ₃ M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion , such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , wherein R ³ to R ^{6 are} independently hydrogen or a C1 to C4 - Kohlenwasse rstoffrest,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

R ⁸ OC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as the straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are available, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product Akypo ^®.

Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8 - C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12 - 18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products, as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® has long been in the trade,

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the Molecule, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

In the compositions according to the invention it is particularly advantageous if mild anionic surfactants are used as anionic surfactants. In particular, by the mild anionic surfactants described below, the effect of the composition according to the invention is particularly mild and gentle especially with regard to the needs of stressed skin and damaged hair.

The term "mild surfactants" is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning surfactants which are found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral redness test, the BUS model (bovine and skin model), the human skin model, the Zeize test, the Draize test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringkammertest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants All test models have in common that a standard is measured against which the measurement results are obtained, in each of these test models there is a threshold below that of "mild surfactants" is spoken. This threshold is for example in the HET-CAM test 1, 5. This means that all surfactants which have a relative irritation score of 1, 5 and smaller, for example, in the HET-CAM test, are known as "mild." A person skilled in the art knows that a surfactant gives a different score in each test model. For example, a cocamidopropyl betaine may even be classified as "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more likely to be considered mild surfactants. A common and accepted classification defines surfactants as mild if they have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5 in the HET-CAM test. According to the invention, however, such surfactants are preferably used and understood as "mild surfactants" which are classified as "mild" in all current test models. Particularly preferred surfactants used are mild surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 1.2 in the HET-CAM test. Very mildly preferred surfactants used are surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 0.8 in the HET-CAM test. In all cases, the corresponding HET-CAM tests are carried out with a surfactant concentration of 3.0% active substance of the particular surfactant.

According to these test methods, the following anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention: Acyl lactylates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and their salts,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. As obtainable from coconut fatty acid C ₁₂ - C ₁₈ -Fettsäurefraktion used, obtained according to the invention preferably suitable C ₁₂ - C ₁₈ acyl isethionates,

Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8 - 24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12- 18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.

Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula

R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _{n is} R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represents hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydrocarbon radical,

Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula

ROC- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OCH ₂ - [CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _y H] -CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _z -SO ₃ X in which RCO is a linear or branched one Acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X stands for an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates are used in which RCO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

Amide ether carboxylic acids, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as the straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is Is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are available, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product Akypo ^®.

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a suitable fatty acid derivative, for example a fatty acid halide. These are prepared by condensation of C8 - C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids having 12 - 18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products, as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® has long been in the trade,

Acylglutamates and acylaspartates. If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Also, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. Particularly mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ^®.

Of course, all mild and anionic surfactants mentioned heretofore and in the following can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are in each case in the form of the lithium, magnesium, zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium, monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, triisopropylammonium, monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium , Tributylammonium, monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, mono-t-butylammonium, di-t-butylammonium, tri-t-butylammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as, for example, methylethylammonium, Dimethyl-ethyl-ammonium, methyl-diethylammonium, methyl-propyl-ammonium, methyl-ethyl-propyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisopropylammonium, ethyl-dibutyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course, the teaching of the invention comprises also the other not explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.

Other mild anionic surfactants, which very particularly preferably in the inventive

Composition are used, alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, - sulfates, phosphates and / or -isethionate, which are derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula (Tnio-2),

with the meaning

RC _{_6-22} alkyl or C _{_6-22} alkenyl,

G glycoside unit derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, p number from 1 to 10. Preferably, the mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic alkyl polyglycosides, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates, protein fatty acid condensates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates, acyl glutamates, and acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof.

Particular preference is given according to the invention to the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, acyl isethionates and also taurates and mixtures thereof.

Very particular preference is given to the use of anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

Most preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

If mixtures of at least two different mild anionic surfactants are used as the mild anionic surfactant, the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

It has been found according to the invention that the use of mild anionic surfactants and in particular of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates in the agents according to the invention leads to a reduction in skin irritation. This leads, in particular when used in the agent according to the invention, to a significantly significantly improved, smoother surface of the keratinic fibers and a less swollen skin surface.

In addition, it has been found according to the invention that when mild anionic surfactants are used, in particular the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates, in cleaning and care agents when applying these agents, the foaming is considerably improved , The foam is characterized in particular by a fine-pored, dense, creamy appearance. The foam is described as pleasantly soft and supple and easy to spread. At the same time, the foam is firm and well palpable. He shows a certain stamina and does not run spontaneously but only after a few minutes. This favors the already described easy spreadability of the foam. These Effects occur in the agents according to the invention especially when further formulated in combination with cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -OC-. ₁₂ alkenyl-COOM, -OSO ₃ M, -OP (O) (OM) ₂ or -0-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SO ₃ M with M = H, alkali metal, NH ₄ or one of the aforementioned counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium replaced.

In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -O-Ci_i ₂ - alkylene-COOM -0 (CH ₂ -) _n C00M with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferably, the radical is 0-CH ₂ -COONa.

Particular preference is given to using an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ^® LCG Cognis Germany.

In the alkyl glycosides of the general formula (Tnio-2), the glycoside units G are preferably derived from aldoses or ketoses.

Preferably, because of the better reactivity, the reducing saccharides, the aldoses, are used. Among the aldoses, glucose is particularly suitable for their easy accessibility and technical availability. The alkylglycosides which are particularly preferably used as starting materials are therefore the alkylglucosides.

The index p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, i. The distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound always has to be an integer and can take here especially the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyl glycoside an analytic calculated arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl glycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are used. Particular preference is given to those alkyl glycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and, in particular, lies between 1.1 and 1.4.

The alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and technical Fractions which, in addition to the saturated alcohols mentioned, may also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols and which are obtained on the basis of natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut oil or beef tallow. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.

In addition to the fatty alcohols mentioned, the alkyl glycosides can also be derived from synthetic primary alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40% by weight of branched isomers.

Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.

Processes for the preparation of these alkyl glycosides have been known to the skilled person for a long time.

The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes. The carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it is possible to react with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH ₂ -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock. Preferably, the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH ₂ -OH group, optionally with an agent capable of reacting one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring.

Other hydroxyl groups may also be etherified, for example.

The preparation of the isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products can be used for hair and body care. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described which contain alkyloligoglycoside isethionates and, for example, further anionic surfactants.

The preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the prior art. For example, the corresponding alkyl glycoside can be reacted with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid followed by neutralization. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known. Finally, detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates are described which can be used, for example, in hair rinses, hair dyes or hair waving agents.

The mild anionic surfactants used according to the invention and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are used in an amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably used in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt.%

The mild anionic surfactants used and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates can completely or partially replace the customary anionic surfactants in these compositions. Thus, the mild anionic surfactants according to the invention can be used as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants can be used with each other or with other conventional anionic surfactants. These conventional anionic surfactants are explained in more detail later. For example, the mild anionic surfactants and other anionic surfactants may be present in a weight ratio ranging from 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1 , 5, and most preferably 1, 5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be included in the compositions of the invention. This probably leads to an increased deposition of the agents on the surface of the skin and the hair, which manifests itself in the overall cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair. The particular charge effects of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants seem to play a role here.

Zwitterionic surfactants (tweets) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO ₃ ⁽⁾ group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Ampholytic surfactants (tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and for the formation of internal Salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, acylaminoethylaminopropionat the coconut and the C ₂ - C ₈ - sarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group, or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether or mixed fatty acid polyethers,

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, the Alkylphenolpolyglykolether or the Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, or mixed Alyklphenolpolyether, with a methyl or C ₂ - C ₆ - Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),

C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol, Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of formula (Tnio-1)

R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _W OR ³ (Tnio-1)

in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, as described for example in DE-OS 19738866,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters, addition products of ethylene oxide onto fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to formula (E4-II),

in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (Tnio-2) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1, used 1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length of C ₈ -C ₀ (DP = 1 to 3), which are obtained as first runnings in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₈ -Kokosfett- alcohol and with a proportion of less than 6 wt .-% C _2- alcohol can be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _{9 /} n-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci _{2 /} i ₄ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (Tnio-3),

R ⁵ CO-NR ⁶ - [Z] (Tnio-3)

R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (Tnio-4): R ⁷ CO- (NR ⁸ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH) J ₄ -CH ₂ OH (Tnio-4)

Glucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ⁷ CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides. Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petro-, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or those technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The sugar surfactants may preferably be present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.

Other typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formalin, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate. The compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred to start from the production of these substances from native plant or animal raw materials, so as to obtain substance mixtures with different, depending on the particular raw material alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

As additives for further improving the skin feel during and after the application, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention can therefore be recommended. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of from 0.1 to 20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of from 2 to 18. Such products can be obtained by addition of ethylene oxide onto z. B. fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial ester based on Ci ₂ -Ci ₈ fatty acids or produced on fatty acid alkanolamides. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship

HLB = 1/5 x (100 wt.% L),

where wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.

The cationic surfactants (Tkat) form the last group of surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the active ingredient complex according to the invention in that they like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants to a significantly improved cosmetic Contribute to the appearance of the skin. The cationic charge ensures a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces, especially of stressed skin. On the long fat residues of these molecular structures, in turn, more hydrophobically structured active ingredients can accumulate. As a result, an overall increased deposition of care substances on the surface of the skin is effected. In particular, the skin feeling is described as pleasantly soft to velvety soft.

Cationic surfactants (Tkat) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ) ^* with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (Tkat) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.

According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^®, ^® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palnnitoyloxyethyl) dinnethylannnnoniunnchlorid, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

As further cationic surfactants, the agents of the invention may comprise at least one quaternary imidazoline compound, i. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring. The formula (Tkat-1) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

RC

ormel (Tkat-1)

The radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms and very particularly preferably having at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred compound of the formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is known, for example, under the name Quaternium-91. In the formula (E5-V) is shown as the counterion methosulfate. However, according to the invention, the counterions also include the halides, such as chloride, fluoride, bromide, or else phosphates.

The imidazolines of the formula (Tkat-1) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7 , 5% by weight. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. An inventively particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercial stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The Alkylamidoamine may be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, but they can of course also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions according to the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Lanoquat ^® DES 50 or Empigen CSC.

Another example of a suitable cationic surfactant, quaternary sugar derivative is the commercially available product Glucquat ^® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".

Finally, cationic surfactants of the present invention are also understood to mean cationic compounds of the following general structure:

RCO-XN ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ^" (Tkat-2)

R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain, X is -O- or -NR ⁵ -,

R ¹ represents an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched. Examples of radicals according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyalkyl, dihydroxyalkyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl , Hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl,

R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxyl group, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, hexyl, iso -hexyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl and

A ^' represents a halide such as fluoride, chloride or bromide, an alkyl sulfate such as a methosulfate or ethosulfate, a phosphate, a citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate Within this structural class, the compounds of one of the following structures are preferably used:

CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂ oCONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₃ A ^" (Tkat-3) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ ( CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ (CHOH) CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-4) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ COOCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ A ^" (Tkat-5) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ CONH (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH A ^" (Tkat-6)

Examples of such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the recognition that mixtures of at least two cationic surfactants can be used. In this case, the cationic surfactants are preferably selected from at least two different structural classes of cationic surfactants.

The cationic surfactants (Tkat) are preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Of course, it is also preferable in the case of the cationic surfactants to select mild cationic surfactants. The criteria for selecting suitable mild surfactants have been previously described in detail. The corresponding mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats, cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat-2) and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the molecule.

Cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the compositions according to the invention are to be used as shower baths.

The surfactants (T) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the total agent used according to the invention , Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, with degrees ofomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component being preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols. Phospholipids. These include, in particular, the glucose phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (for example soybeans).

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1 - 5 wt .-% proved. It is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester. The following formula describes the mixed ester in more detail: R ¹ OOC-CH ₂ - (CHOH-COOR ¹ ) -CH ₂ -COO-CH) ₂ - [C (CH ₂ OH) (COOR ² ) 2]

Here, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohol radicals having a chain length of 8 to 30 C atoms or radicals of dimerization products of these fatty alcohols. The addition of such mixed esters a particularly pleasant feeling on the skin is achieved in the application of the body cleanser.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

Emulsifiers preferred according to the invention are the so-called mild emulsifiers. The mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by various methods. For example, the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model are used for this purpose. What is common to all test methods is that it is principally measured against a standard to which the results are referred. It is also pointed out that the chapter "Surfactants" has already described in detail how mild raw materials can be selected, as well as the selection of mild emulsifiers. According to these test methods, the following preferred emulsifiers have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates as already described for the surfactants, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates as already described for the surfactants, amide-ether carboxylic acids as described in the chapter on surfactants,

Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,

Zwitterionic surfactants (tweets)),

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho),

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the formula (Tnio-2),

Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type according to the formula (Tnio 3),

Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis),

Amine oxides,

Hydroxymix ethers, for example of the formula

R ¹ O [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _X (CH ₂ CHR ² O) _X [CH ₂ CH (OH) R ³ I _Z with R ^{1 as} linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical, R ^{3 is} a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, x stands for 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y stands for a number from 1 to 30 and z stands for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.

Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,

Addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,

Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),

esterquats

Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Sterols, Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.

Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol, Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

In the preferred case according to the invention that the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions should be improved, the particularly mild surfactants and emulsifiers are preferably used in the compositions. In these cases, the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates are used in amounts of less than 8% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight and more preferably less than 2.5% by weight. Most preferably, these compositions are free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free from" in this context means that these ingredients are not used in any way, but it is possible that they may be introduced into the composition by other ingredients, such as the use of silicone emulsions, so "free from" preferably means smaller than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.

It is known that oil-in-water emulsions, hereafter called O / W emulsions, prepared and stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers undergo phase inversion upon heating, ie, at higher temperatures, the outer, aqueous phase becomes the inner phase can be. This process is usually reversible, that is, the original type of emulsion reverts upon cooling. It is also known that the location of the phase inversion temperature (PIT) depends on many factors, for example the type and phase volume of the oil component, the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or the composition of the emulsifier system. Furthermore, it is known that emulsions prepared at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature are characterized by particular stability and fineness, while those prepared above the phase inversion temperature are less finely divided. Emulsions that undergo phase inversion at a certain temperature are called PIT emulsions. These PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention because they contain significantly less emulsifier due to the just sufficient amount of emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but also very mild and gentle on the skin and hair. If ionic surfactants are also used as emulsifiers in the PIT emulsions, these are particularly preferably added to the PIT emulsion only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the cooling process.

Very particularly cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers are used as further ingredients in the compositions according to the invention. Polymers are in cosmetic compositions used for a variety of reasons. Here, nonionic polymers are also considered.

In the following some examples of particularly preferred polymers are described. The distinction of the polymers which can be used according to the invention can be made on the basis of the charges of the polymers and / or because of their particularly pronounced properties in terms of their application. The term "particularly distinctive features" reflects the fact that polymers generally combine several properties in one molecule, but often one of the properties is particularly prominent and is decisive for the selection of this particular polymer.

First, polymers will be described based on their respective charges.

Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

Further cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers, which usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationically.

The cationic polymers according to the invention can be both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers having conditioning and / or thickening properties. The suitable cationic polymers are preferably fixing and / or conditioning polymers. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.

These two groups of polymers share a potentially cationic charge. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers can therefore via their cationic charge density can be characterized. The polymers of the invention are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density of at least equal to 3meq / g to 7 meq / g.

Another characteristic feature of the polymers according to the invention is their molecular weight. The molecular weight of the particular polymer is understood to mean the molecular weight which the manufacturer indicates in the corresponding data sheets by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer, a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u has proven to be suitable according to the invention. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u have proven to be particularly suitable. Polymers with a molecular weight of more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.

The deposition of polymers of surfactant solutions on the surface of keratinic fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not fully understood until today. The previously described selection of suitable polymers already takes place in the prior art according to the previously described criteria of charge density or molecular weight.

All known physical chemistry adsorption equations contain proportionality constants which are related to the degree of coverage of the surface. Without knowing the exact scientific background, however, the degree of coverage of the surface could be related to an adsorption probability of the polymers according to the invention. Defining the adsorption probability as the product of the cationic charge density and the molecular weight, this product can be used for the targeted selection of suitable inventive polymers.

Suitable polymers have a value of greater than 100,000 for the product of cationic charge density and molecular weight. Particularly suitable are polymers which have a value of at least 200,000 for this product. Especially suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value greater than 250,000. Most suitable are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.

Preference is given to those polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or alcohol in order to completely dissolve in the agent according to the invention. The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers, for example trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium,

Dialkyl diallyl ammonium and quaternary vinyl ammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / inylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers, for example silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and Acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (P1),

- (CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^" (P1)

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ ,

R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or

Hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X ^'is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (monomer-3) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. in the

Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ^' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are, for example, under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (3V Sigma) are commercially available. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, Mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (Pmonomer-3) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C-. _4- alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C-ι- ₄ -alkyl ester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers with amino groups are known under the INCI name Amodimethicone. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal. The N-containing silicone cationic polymer of the present invention may preferably be selected from the group consisting of siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups. Preferred according to the invention is the use of an aminosiloxane according to the following general formula (P-2),

wherein R = OH or CH _3, X = alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl and A, B and C = copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks are.

Amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids are most preferred according to the invention. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, isolaureth-6 and glycol; Dow Corning® 2-8194 microemulsion (26%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8177 microemulsion (12%) based on an amine-functionalized silicone polymer; Dow Corning® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine-functionalized polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.

The molecular weight of the aminosilicones is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.

The aminosilicone as a cationic polymer according to the invention is used in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10% by weight .% used. Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic ones

Derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or

Guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c X

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , R _b and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or

Alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20;

X ^' is a common counter anion and is preferably chloride.

A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ^® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, containing the - idealized - monomer unit: ^ CH ₂ OH HO NBt ₂

I II

CH-O CH- CH

- [- HC1 CH-O-CH CH-O-] "-

CH-CH ^ CH-O i i I

HO NBI ₂ CH ₂ OH

Unlike most hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged at biological pH levels, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions. The positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore considered to be useful in cosmetic hair and body care products Filmbildner used. In addition to the chitosans are also quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form into consideration. The insert can also be in the form of aqueous gels having a solids content in the range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as inexpensive raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting

(a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,

(b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with aqueous alkali hydroxide solution,

(c) again treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate with dilute aqueous mineral acid,

(d) the resulting decalcified third intermediate product finally treated with concentrated aqueous caustic alkali and thereby deacetylated to a level of from 0.05 to 0.5 and in particular from 0.15 to 0.25 mole of acetamide per mole of monomer unit, and

(e) optionally subjected to a pressure / temperature post-treatment to adjust the viscosity. The chitosans to be used according to the invention are completely or partially deacetylated chitins. The molecular weight of the chitosan can be distributed over a broad spectrum, for example from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. For example, a low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of from 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol is suitable. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is above 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 to 99%.

The chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization of the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. As a neutralizing agent, it is possible in principle to use all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids such as, for example, formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, hydrochloric acid and the like, of which the pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid is particularly preferred.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

quaternized CeIIu lose-derivatives, such as are available under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^® ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, in particular those sold under the tradename Cosmedia Guar and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric Dimethyldiallylammoniunnsalze and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylamnnoniunnchlorid)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names. According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiol in Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

The cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Amphoteric polymers, like the cationic polymers, are most preferred polymers.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SO ₃ ^~ groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Patent Application 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369. Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ⁽⁾ (monol)

in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and A ^'is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.

When a cationic group of the amphoteric or cationic polymers is derived from the monomer of the formula (monol), the radicals R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ in the formula (monol) are preferably methyl groups, Z is preferably an NH group and A ^{( )} preferably means a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (monol).

In formula (mono 2), A ^"is preferably a halide ion, in particular chloride or bromide.

Preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (Mono3) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Mono3) or their salts with an organic or inorganic acid,

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3)

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

As the monomer (Mono3) acrylic acid is used for the inventively preferred amphoteric polymers.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

In addition, in addition to a monomer (monol) or (mono 2) and a monomer (mono 3), the amphoteric polymers according to the invention may additionally contain one monomer (mono 4).

monomeric carboxamides of the general formula (mono 4)

R ¹⁰ -CH = CR ¹¹ -CNR ¹² (mono 4) IL HO in which R ¹⁰ and R ¹¹ independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{12 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C ₈ ) alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

(i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A ⁽⁾ (monol) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and

(Ii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3) in which R ⁰ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

With regard to the details of the preparation of these particularly preferred polymers is expressly made to the content of German Patent Application 39 29 973 reference. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Further amphoteric polymers which can be used according to the invention are the compounds mentioned in British Patent Application 2,104,091, European Patent Application 47,714, European Offenlegungsschrift 217,274, European Offenlegungsschrift 283,817 and German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer, where the sulfonic acid group may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt, have proven to be particularly effective ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a non-ionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred Be networking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types, a compound (monomer δ having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and a di- or polyisocyanate (monomer θ).

The compounds (monomer δ) may be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols. The compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds having 2 active hydrogen atoms.

Examples of compounds (Monomerδ) are ethylene glycol, 1, 2 and 1, 3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -Propylenglykole, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane, hexamethylenediamine and, diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.

Polyurethanes in which the compounds (monomer δ) are diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols having molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.

Polyesterols are usually obtained by modifying the compound (Monomerδ) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid. As compounds (Monomerθ) predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylene di (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate are used.

Furthermore, the polyurethanes used in the invention may contain other building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. With regard to the further building blocks, there is no fundamental restriction as to whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks.

For further information on the construction and production of polyurethanes, reference is expressly made to the articles in the relevant reviews such as Römpps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Enzyklopädie der technischen Chemie.

Polyurethanes which have proved to be particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases have been able to be characterized as follows:

- Only aliphatic groups in the molecule

- no free isocyanate groups in the molecule

- Polyether and polyester polyurethanes

- anionic groups in the molecule.

It has also proved advantageous in some cases when the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system but is stably dispersed.

Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, when the polyurethanes were not mixed directly with the other components, but introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, in particular about 35-45% and are also commercially available.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

Glycosidically substituted silicones.

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, for example by special polymerization processes or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying it into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Suitable polymers are, for example, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for example under the trade mark Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning). Other polymer powders, for example based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) having a particle size of 2 - (10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos Atochem SA, Paris). Further spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for example, the polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) from SEPPIC or (Plastic Powder A) from NIKKOL, the styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP) from NIKKOL, the polyethylene and polypropylene Powder (ACCUREL EP 400) from AKZO, or else silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or even spherical cellulose powders.

The polymer powders described above are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Polymers, regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic compositions. The description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions according to the invention does not necessarily correspond to an evaluation or significance of these polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle to be considered equivalent for use in the compositions of the invention, although some of these polymers may be preferred. Furthermore, due to the polyfunctionality of polymers, some polymers can be found in several descriptions with different effects. Polymers which can bring about several desired effects are therefore particularly preferred for use in the compositions according to the invention.

The choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use of the composition according to the invention.

Since polymers are often multifunctional, their functions can not always be clearly and clearly distinguished from each other. This applies in particular to film-forming and setting polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers will be described by way of example. However, it is explicitly stated at this point that both film-forming and fixing polymers are essential in the context of the present invention. Since both properties are not completely independent of each other, the term "setting polymers" always "film-forming polymers" understood and vice versa. Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the composition according to the invention. Because of their pronounced film formation properties, these polymers are very particularly preferred in the compositions of the invention. The use of at least one of these polymers is therefore also very particularly preferred according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are also understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the skin or on the hair. The film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.

Suitable synthetic, film-forming, setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers made up of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

For example, homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, of vinylpyrrolidone or of N-vinylformamide are suitable. Further suitable synthetic film-forming fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ^® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ^® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Elvanol ^® by Du Pont or Vinol ^® 523/540 from Air Products and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, among the Trade names Ucon® of Union Carbide. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.

Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.

Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone copolymer,

Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / HEMA / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Propyl Trimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / TDI / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylates / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl

Methacrylates / Diacetones Acrylamide / Hydroxypropyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Adipic Acid / CHDM / MA / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylene Glycol / Glycerol Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene glycol copolymer, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine copolymer, adipic acid / epoxypropyl diethylenetriamine copolymer, adipic acid / fumaric acid / phthalic acid / tricyclodecane dimethanol copolymer, adipic acid / isophthalic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimethylolpropane copolymer, adipic acid / neopentyl glycol / trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Albumen, AIIyI Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharide, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylate / Al IyI Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Benzoguanamine / Formaldehyde / Melamine Crosspolymer, Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Pentaerythritol / Neopentyl Glycol / Palmitic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Bis-PEG -15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-St earyl Dimethicone, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer, Butoxy Chitosan, Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Butylated Polyoxymethylene Urea, Butylated PVP, Butyl Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Trimethylolethane Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Butylethylpropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyl Methacrylate / DMAPA Acrylates / Vinylacetamide Crosspolymer, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, C5-6 Alkanes / Cycloalkanes / Terpene Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone / Polycyclohexenes Oxide Crosspolymer, C1-5 A Alkyl Galactomannan, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan Succinamide, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chitosan, Chitosan Adipate, Chitosan Ascorbate, Chitosan Formats, Chitosan Glycolate, Chitosan Lactate, Chitosan PCA, Chitosan Salicylate, Chitosan Succinamide, C5-6 Olefin / C8-10 Naphtha Olefin Copolymer, Collodion, Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba ) Resin, Copal, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, DEA-Styrene / Acrylates / DVB Copolymer, Dibutylhexyl IPDI, Didecyltetradecyl IPDI, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Diethylhexyl IPDI,

Diglycol / CHDM / isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Diglycol / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine / IPDI Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Glycol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / sebacic acid / piperazine / ethylenediamine copolymer, dilinoleyl alcohol / IPDI copolymer, Dimeticone PEG-8 polyacrylate, dimethicone / inyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer, dimethiconol / IPDI copolymer, dimethylamine / ethylenediamine / epichlorohydrin copolymer, dioctyldecyl IPDI, dioctyldodecyl IPDI, di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / A Copolymer, Ethylene / Calcium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / Magnesium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Zinc Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candeli lla) Wax Extract, Fibroin / PEG-40 / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Flexible Collodion, Formaldehyde / Melamine / Tosylamide Copolymer, Galactoarabinan, Glycereth-7 Hydroxystearate / IPDI Copolymer, Glycerol / MA / Rosin Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin / Phthalic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glycerol / Succinic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidyl C8-11 Acidate / Glycerol / Phthalic Anhydride Copolymer, Glycol Rosinate, Gutta Percha, Hexylene Glycol / Neopentyl Glycol / Adipic Acid / SMDI / DMPA Copolymer, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi OiI Copolymer, Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Hexyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Lauryl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Rosin, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax , Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Gadidae Protein, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Cystine Bis-PG Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG -7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylate / Butyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Acetate / Succinate, Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylic Copolymer, Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Isophorone Diamine / Cyclohexylamine / Isophthalic Acid / Azelaic Acid Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Pentaerythritol Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, 4,4'-Isopropylidenediphenol / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate / VA Copolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Maltodextrin, Mannan, Melia Azadirachta Conditioned Media / Culture, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methoxypolyoxymethylene Melamine, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer , Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Myroxylon Balsamum (Balsam ToIu) Resin, Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Resin, Nitrocellulose, Nylon 12/6/66 Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer,

Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Oxymethylene / Melamine Copolymer, Palmitic Acid / Pentaerythritol / Stearic Acid / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Pentaerythritol / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Cyclohexane Dicarboxylate, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phthalic Acid Denatured With Epoxy Resin Alkyd Resin, Phthalic Anhydride / Adipic Acid / Castor Oil / Neopentyl Glycol / PEG -3 / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Glycerin Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol copolymer, piperylene / butenes / pentenes copolymer, piperylenes / butenes / pentenes / pentadiene e Copolymer, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Polianthes Tuberosa Extract, Polyacrylamides, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polyacrylates-1, Polyacrylates-2, Polyacrylates-5, Polyacrylates-6, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyamides-1, Polybeta-Alanines, Polybeta-Alanines / Glutaric acid cross polymer, polybutyl acrylate, polybutylene terephthalate, polychlorotrifluoroethylene, polydiethylene glycol adipate / IPDI copolymer, polydimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, polyester-1, polyester-2, polyester-3, polyethylacrylate, polyethylene, polyethylene naphthalate, polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylglutamate, polyethylmethacrylate, polyglucuronic acid , Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearates / IPDI copolymer, polyisobutenes, polylysines, polymethacrylamides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polymethacrylic acid, polymethyl acrylates, polymethylglutamates, polymethyl methacrylates, polyoxyisobutylenes / methylene urea copolymer, polyoxymethylene melamines, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polypentenes, polyper fluoroperhydrophenanthrene, poly-p-phenylene terephthalamide, polyphosphorylcholine glycol acrylate, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium- 18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium- 51, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-61, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-11, Polysilicone-14, Polystyrene, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-2, Polyurethane-4, Polyurethane-5, Polyurethane- 6, Polyurethane-7, Polyurethane-8, Polyurethane-10, Polyu rethane-11, polyurethanes-12, polyurethanes-13, polyvinyl acetal, diethylaminoacetates, polyvinyl acetates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl butyral, polyvinylcaprolactam, polyvinyl chlorides, polyvinyl imidazolinium acetates, polyvinyl isobutyl ethers, polyvinyl laurates, polyvinyl methyl ethers, polyvinyl stearyl ethers, potassium acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Potassium Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-26 / HDI copolymer, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI copolymer, PPG-7 / succinic acid copolymer, PPG-26 / TDI copolymer, PPG-10 tocophereth-30, PPG-20 tocophereth-50, propylene glycol Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Pseudotsuga Menziesii (Balsam Oregon) Resin, Pullulan, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP, PVP Montmorillonite, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copo lymer, Quaternium-22, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin, Rubber Latex, Serum Albumin, Shellac, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium DVB / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer , Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium MA / Diisobutylene Copolymer, Sodium MA / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer , Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Diethylaminoethyl Ether, Stearamidopropyl Dimeth icone, Steareth-10 AIIyI Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Stearoyl Epoxy Resin, Stearyl HDI / PEG-50 Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrax Benzoin Gum, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Aimmonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene / Allyl Benzoate Copolymer, Styrene / DVB Crosspolymer, Styrene / Isoprene Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer , Styrene / methacrylamide / acrylate copolymer, styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, styrene / VA copolymer, styrene / P copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate / methyl methacrylate Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate Copolymer, TEA Acrylate / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, TEA Diricinoleate, TEA Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Tetrad ecyloctadecy I Behenate, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristate, Tetrad ecyloctadecy I Stearates, Titanium Isostearates, Tosylamides / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamides / Formaldehyde Res in, Tricontanyl PVP, Triethylene Glycol Rosinate, Trimethylol Propane, Cyclohexene Dicarboxylate, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer,

Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgary (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer,

VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl Maleate / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetate, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride / Vinyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethiconyl Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol Ester, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer,

VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / VA copolymer, welan gum, yeast beta-glucan, yeast polysaccharides, zein.

Finally, the antistatic effect of polymers is another essential function for cosmetic agents. With the help of the electrical properties of these polymers, the surfaces of the cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential. In hair care, for example, this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect" and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect in a specific pH range preference is given to those groups of polymers which at the same time also belong to at least one of the groups of fixing and / or film-forming polymers. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the finding that in each case at least one antistatic, at least one fixing and at least one film-forming polymer can be used in the compositions according to the invention. However, it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers has at least two of the desired properties.

Examples of such antistatic polymers are:

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silicon Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiIk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin / Keratin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium C hloride, gelatin / lysine / polyacrylamide hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, beta-glucan

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysates Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey,

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Whey, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidines Acetate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-2 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3

Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamine, PEG-2 Lauramine, PEG-5 Oleamine, PEG-15 Oleamine, PEG-30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG-5 Soyamine, PEG-8 Soyamine, PEG-10 Soyamine, PEG-15 Soyamine, PEG-2 Stearamine, PEG-5 Stearamine, PEG-10 Stearamine, PEG-15 Stearamine, PEG-50 Stearamine, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Amm onium chlorides, PEG-5 stearyl ammonium lactates, PEG-10 stearyl benzonium chlorides, PEG-6 stearyl guanidines, PEG-5 tallow amides, PEG-2 tallow amines, PEG-7 tallow amines, PEG-11 tallow amines, PEG-15 tallow Amines, PEG-20 Tallow Amines, PEG-25 Tallow Amines, PEG-3 Tallow Aminopropyl Amines, PEG-10 Tallow Aminopropyl Amines, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropyl Amines, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfates, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamines, PEG-3 Tallow Propylenedimonium Dimethosulfates, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chlorides, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chlorides, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chlorides,

Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium- 29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium- 39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1, Polyvinylimidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine , PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-18 Methosulfate, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-70, Quaternium- 71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hyd Rolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silica, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quaternium-89, Quaternium-90, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silicon, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate, Trigonella Foenu M-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate.

Of course, the emulsion-stabilizing polymers are also among the polymers preferred according to the invention. These are understood to mean polymers which essentially support the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions). Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, but the stabilizing polymers contribute to a reduction in the coalescence of the emulsified droplets by positively affecting the continuous or disperse phase. This positive influence may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in viscosity or a film formation on the surface of the droplets. These properties of the polymers in question can also in the inventive Compositions are particularly advantageously used to dissolve the powdery compositions according to the invention before and / or during the application of the powder in water.

Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / CIO-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium

Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1 -5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth -9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12- 14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tet ragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax , Hydroxybutyl methylcellulose, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl isostearyloxy isopropanolamine, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, lanolin, lanolin alcohol, magnesium Alginates, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecene / MA copolymer , Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Pectin, PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Carnauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer , PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-23/6 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8/3 Laurate, PEG / PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone, Polyacrylic Acid, Polyethylene, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Dextrin Octenyl Succinate, Potassium Polyacrylate , Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Com Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5 PPG-5 C12-14 sec-pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 sec-pareth-9, PPG-2 tocophereth-5, PPG-5 tocophereth-2, PPG-10 tocophereth-30, PPG-20 tocophereth -50, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodiu m Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / inyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfates, Sodium Dextrin Octenyl Succinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Alginate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Polypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA Alginate, TEA Dextrin Octenyl Succinate, Undecylenoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylen oyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

Polymers can increase the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases, their viscosity-increasing function is based on their solubility in water or their hydrophilic nature. They are used in both surfactant and emulsion systems. This property of the polymers is also advantageous in the compositions according to the invention before and / or during use.

The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems:

Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agarose, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, But Oxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenyl Succinate, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxy butyl methyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl chitosan, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl ethylene diamine carbomer, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearoxy ether, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphates, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (KeIp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Cellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose , Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearates, PEG-190 distearates, PEG-15 glyceryl tristearates, PEG-140 glyceryl tristearates, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ethers, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG -20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG-180 / octoxynol-40 / TMMG copolymer, PEG -150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearates, PEG-4 rapeseedamides, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, polyacrylates-3, polyacrylic acid, polycyclopentadienes, polyether-1, polyethylenes / isopropyl maleate / MA copolyol, polymethacrylic acid, polyquaternium-52, polyvinyl alcohol Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginates, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acr ylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate , Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylate / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch / Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydrox ypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginate, TEA Carbomer, Triticum Vulgaris (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Com) Starch.

Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of the non-aqueous phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products. For this purpose, polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids. They are also used for the gelation of cosmetic products with high lipid levels. This also contributes significantly to the excellent application of the agents according to the invention. The following are some of these polymers listed:

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, AIIyI Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Beeswax, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanoate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesterol l Stearates, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Com Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer,

Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Isobutylene / Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methylstyrene / Vinyl Tolene Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon 611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor OiI Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate , PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Succinate, PEG -5 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Triisostearate, PEG-5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic A Nhydride / Glycerin / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Polybutene, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polycyclopentadiene, Polydipentenes, Polyethylenes, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Polyricinoleate, Polyglycerol 5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates, polyisobutenes, polyisoprenes, polypentenes,

Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy Difluoromethyl Distearamide, Polypropylene, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-17, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor OiI Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP / Decene Copolymer , Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether , Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Carnauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluoropropyl Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoro Ropropyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer

Of course, in the composition according to the invention also microparticles, filled or unfilled, both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active ingredient from the capsules or the achievement of special optical, esthetic effects of Total formulation can be used. In this case, it may be particularly advantageous when polymers are incorporated as suspending aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:

Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonites, Biotites, Calcium Lignosulfonates , Com Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl Trimethicone Copolymer, Dimethylol Urea / Phenol / Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonates, Disteardimonium Hectorites, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearate, Hectorite, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer r, isobutylene / MA copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, maltodextrin, methacryloyl ethyl betaine / acrylate copolymer, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, myristoyl / PCA chitin, nitrocellulose, PEG Castor OiI Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEI-7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI-30, PEI 35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite, Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphates, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetates, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoates, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, Quaternium -18 Bentonite, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Silica Silylates, Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Dimaltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetates Isobutyrate / Butyl Benzyl Phthalate copolymer, tosylamide / epoxy resin, tosylamide / formaldehyde resin, VP / dimethylaminoethylnethacrylate copolymer, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / VA copolymer.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

In a preferred embodiment, it may also be advantageous to formulate at least one avivating and / or at least one film-forming, consolidating polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Thus, the polymer (P) according to the invention may be both a consolidating and / or film-forming polymer and a polymer having conditioning or softening and / or thickening properties.

The polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

The following ingredients additionally contribute to the achievement and further enhancement of the effects of the invention.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (D) as further active ingredient. With this composition, increased amounts of the active ingredients are deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically enhanced effects. In the process, this effect is further markedly increased by the further use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as deposition aids in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, there is a change in the charge of the surface, which can be measured, for example, by measuring the so-called Wilhelmy voltage. Fatty substances (D) are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ - C ₂₂ - and particularly preferably C ₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding fatty alcohols Alcohols resulting fatty acid esters are produced, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^®, ^® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexan (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids are preferably alcohols having 2 to 24 C Atoms. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate,

Propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid , Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or wild rose oil.

The following table shows the average wages in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention. Since the listed values are average values of the respective fatty acids, the sum of all fatty acids can also be greater or less than 100%. Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages.

Preferred natural oils contain at least all fat-printed fatty acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Particularly preferred natural oils contain the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of the fatty acids. A plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table characterizes these particularly preferred natural oils. Very particularly preferred oils are furthermore distinguished by an additional content of squalene. Highly preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a content of linolenic acids.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two of the natural oils listed in the above table can be mixed together. In this case, however, the natural oils must be selected so that the sum of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid gives at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids. Preferred blends of the natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, shea butter amaranth seed oil, camellina oil amaranth seed oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, camelina olive oil, shea butter olive oil, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil shea butter. However, more than three of the natural oils should not be mixed together. Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and should therefore be described in more detail as an example. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It is considered to be the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it is also called "The Berber Gold." This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little is known about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions.

Argan oil is the oil of the seed of argan fruit. The argan tree, Argania spinosa, is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fear with a plum or olive-like appearance can not be consumed. The tree can bear fruit several times a year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The kernels are about three times the size of hazelnuts. The kernels are pitched to recover the seeds. These seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to recover the oil. Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil. It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows the strongest vitamin E activity of all known vegetable oils. Furthermore, argan oil has a uniquely high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt.%. Argan oil is an excellent edible oil and dietary supplement. And also in cosmetic compositions argan oil is used because of its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids. The importance of argan oil is also based on the unique sterols contained in argan oil, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol. Argan oil contains to tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, which are composed as follows: about 40 to 60 mg tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg ß-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg δ-tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg of γ-tocopherol. The ratio of unsaturated to saturated fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1. The amount of sterols in the argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil. The content of fatty acids is more than 99% by weight, of which more than 80% by weight are unsaturated. The fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, Linoleic acid to 0.1% and gadoleic acid to 0.5%. The amount of linoleic acid in argan oil is about three times higher than that of olive oil.

Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions. The North Africans use argan oil to rub their skin before visiting a steam bath. It penetrates quickly into the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling. Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging and is also used to prevent itching. In hair care, it is recommended for brittle and dry hair and hair loss.

Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. Amaranth seed oil can be easily incorporated into hair cleansing and conditioner. Incorporated into these compositions, the hair treated therewith remains more glossy and has improved care properties, in particular improved combing properties, more gloss and improved feel. In particular, it has been found that a hair cleanser based on amaranth seed oil requires the least amount of solubilizer, while comparable other oils require a significantly higher amount of solubilizer in order to ensure stable incorporation of the oil into the shampoo. For example, the amaranth seed oil can be stable and clear incorporated into a shampoo at a certain concentration of solubilizers, while many other natural oils have a phase separation.

The lipid fraction of the amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides. In addition to oil and palmitic acid, linoleic acid is the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil. Myristic acid, stearic acid, vaccenic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid are also present in the fatty acid spectrum. Particularly noteworthy, however, is a particularly high proportion of squalene (6-12%) in amaranth seed oil, which is found in other conventional vegetable oils only in very low concentrations. In addition, the Amaranthsamenöl rich in many vitamin E derivatives (including α-, ß-, γ- and δ-tocopherol and α- and ß-tocotrienol) and has a remarkable proportion of the phytosterols Δ7-avenasterol, Δ7-campesterol, Δ7-sitosterol and Δ7-stigmasterol. A suitable oil according to the invention is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed OiI" from the company Euro Ingredients.

Shea butter is to be described in more detail as another example of natural oils. Shea butter according to the invention is by no means used alone but only in admixture with at least one further natural oil, so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid is at least 50% by weight. Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, iodine value 55 to 67, unsaponifiable 2 to 11%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 ⁰ C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin. The essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, α- and β-amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of α- and β-amyrin are as follows:

"-Amyrtn ß-amyrin

The structure of Lupeol is as follows:

These shea butter phytosterols are all triterpenes with more than 15 carbon atoms. Finally, in the shea butter also a share of waxes available. Shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in skin care products. However, it is also included in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratinic fibers.

In a most preferred embodiment, the compositions further contain squalene. Squalene is found in large quantities in shark fishes. In smaller quantities it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils. Squalene is also found in the natural lipid coat of keratinous fibers. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and are thus used most preferably according to the invention, can be found in Table 1 on the pages above. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.

[(all-E) -2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaene, spinacene]

In this most preferred drug combination, squalene is used in proportion to the combination of the fatty acids in an amount of 1: 1000. A ratio of 1: 100 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio of 1:50, most preferably 1:20 and most preferably 1:10 and most preferably a ratio of 1: 5.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.

A last group of substances which can additionally be used as fatty substances in the compositions according to the invention are silicone oils.

Silicone oils (Si) cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds.

More preferably, the silicones are selected from at least one member of the organosilicon compounds formed from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups; b) (per) fluorinated groups; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups; e) hydroxylated groups; f) alkoxylated groups; g) acyloxyalkyl groups; h) amphoteric groups; i) bisulfite groups; j) hydroxyacylamino groups; k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and m) sulfate or thiosulfate groups;

(iii) linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

(iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;

(v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;

(vi) or mixtures thereof. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Sil)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil .1):

R ² I

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiR ¹ ₃ )

IO - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _z - (SiR ¹ ₃ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicones of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)

(CH ₃₎ 3 Si- [O-Si (CH3) 2] χ-O-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 (Sil .2)

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10. It is in the context of the present invention as the silicone of formula (Sil) preferably the compounds:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) 2 Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₁ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₃ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₄ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₅ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₆ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₇ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₈ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₁₉ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ J ₃ Si [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the preferred compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones according to invention have at 2O ⁰ C to viscosities of 0.2 to 2 mmV ^1, wherein silicones having viscosities of 0.5 to 1 mmV ¹ are particularly preferred. The dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconone based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)

M (R _a Q _b Si0 ₍₄ - _a - _{b) / 2} ) _x (R _c Si0 ₍₄ - _{c) / 2} ) _y M (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula

R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

Carbon atoms,

Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, in which

R ^{1 is} a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms,

Carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group; a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and x a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25; and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000 and most preferred is from about 150 to about 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, - CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, - OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CHz) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _Z NH ₂ , where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for said Z is - N (CH ₂ ) _Z (CH ₂ ) _ZZ NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ .

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. the molar ratio of R ₃ Q _b SiO ₍₄ _a - _{b.) / 2} units to the R ₀ SiO ₍₄ _ _c y ₂ units in the formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to about 1: 65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula (Si-2) are employed, then the various variables Substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend. Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3)

R _'a G ₃ - _a -Si (OSiG ₂₎ _n - (OSiG _b R' _2-b) _m -O-SiG ₃ - _a -R _'a (Si-3),

where:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C / H ₂ C / H2C / H3, -L) ~ C / H (C / H3) 2) ~ C / H (L / H3) 2 _J-L) ~ C / H2C / Π2C / Π2C / Π3, -C / H2C / H2C / Π2C / Π3, -O-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ _2, -CH ₂ CH (CHs) _2, -0-CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -CH (CH ₃₎ CH ₂ CH _3, -OC (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ; a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1, m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") ₂ -QN (R ¹¹ J ₂ -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- -QN ⁺ H (R ") ₂ ^a" QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") ^a" -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R" H ₂ a ^", each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ - , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₂ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -, R "is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci. ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CHs) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ J ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, the as Amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5-7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric ), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80)..

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

(CH ₃₎ 3 Si- [O-Si (CH3) 2] n [O-Si (CH3)] _m-OSi (CH3) ₃ (Si-3a)

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -O] _n1 [Si (R> O] _m - [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -O] _n2 SiMe ₂ R (Si-3b),

I

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂ , wherein

R is -OH, (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) -

Alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group,

R 'is -OH, a (C ₁ to C ₂₀ ) alkoxy group or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and Is 150, where the sum (n1 + n2) is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of 1 to 2000, in particular of 1 to 10.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g is. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone (s).

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are used, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g , The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

According to the invention, it is also possible for the amodimethicones to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Only recently are completely new polyammonium polysiloxane compounds known, in which the siloxane substructures optionally via ammonium substructures with each other are connected. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic products are described, for example, in the published patent application WO 02/10257.

As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:

a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -A-E-, -E-A-, -A-E-A'- and / or -A'-E-A-, in which:

A is one of the groups: -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

A ^' means: -CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -,

-C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and

E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas:

- [CH ₂ CH ₂ OI _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) OIr and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] r, - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = O to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of the

Group A to the terminal oxygen atom group E each with the formation of

Bind ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER ² , wherein

A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ² is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ¹ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) and having

-OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic,

a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,

a3) at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula:

-KSK-, wherein S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - and wherein R ¹ is C ¹ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ¹ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when several groups S are present in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, wherein K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -

Hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) - and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, or optionally a bond to a divalent radical R ³ , and wherein R ^{3 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched Ci-C ₂₀ -

A hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R is as defined above in which the radicals K can be identical or different from one another, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence takes place via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group,

a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (s) ammonium group (s).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they have the above-defined components a1) to a4). The polysiloxane compounds are formed by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) to each other. Component a4) serves to neutralize the positive charges resulting from component a2).

The polysiloxane compounds of the invention may be oligomers or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds also include the case described below wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeating unit.

Polysiloxane compounds of the invention are naturally formed by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.

In the case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, the terminal atom groups result from the terminal atom groups of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). Thus, the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, in particular their formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, the optionally present in the structural components beyond free valences (as may occur in trivalent radicals as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) are preferably not used to build polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.

These polyammoniumpolysiloxanes are conveniently prepared by one of the methods described in the publication WO 02/10257.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ^® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above are very particularly preferred in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each based on the total composition.

The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

in which x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions.

The silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as disclosed, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1.

In summary, this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material which reacts with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction, with at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least one surfactant and water present are.

Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, the hydrosilylation reaction in which an Si-H group having an aliphatically unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes having some Si (C) _P- Si bonds (p = 1-6), the polysiloxanes also being referred to as polysiloxane-polysilalkylene copolymers.

The chain extension reaction may also include the reaction of an Si-OH group (e.g., a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (e.g., alkoxysilanes, silicates, or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes. The polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure:

R-Si (R ₂ HO-Si (R ₂ Hn-O-SiR ₃

In this structure, each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatically unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy, such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups are present per polymer, n is a positive number> 1. Preferably, a plurality of the reactive groups, more preferably> 90%, and especially> 98% of the reactive groups, at the terminal Si -Atomen bound in siloxane. Preferably, n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm ² / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm ² / s.

The polysiloxanes may be branched to a low degree (for example, <2 mol% of the siloxane units), but the polymers are substantially linear, more preferably fully linear. In addition, the substituents R may in turn be substituted, for example with N-containing groups (for example amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably, at least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, especially preferably methyl groups.

The organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane or a molecule that acts as a chain extender. When the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, one polysiloxane in the reaction has (at least) one reactive group, and a second polysiloxane has (at least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first.

If the organosilicone material comprises a chain-extending agent, it may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (e.g. disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a silazane. For example, a composition comprising a polysiloxane according to the above-described general structure having at least one Si-OH group can be chain extended by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium-containing catalysts is reacted. The metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material Presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group. The polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer. Representative aliphatic unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or a group R ² CH = CHR ³ in which R ^{2 is} a divalent aliphatic silicon-bonded chain and R ^{3 is} a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer.

This material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).

The polysiloxane having at least one aliphatic unsaturated group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials. The catalysts may take any known form, for example platinum or rhodium coated on support materials (such as silica gel or activated carbon) or other suitable compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids. Chloroplatinic acid either as a commercially available hexahydrate or in anhydrous form is a preferred catalyst because of good dispersibility in organosilicone systems and low color change.

In a further preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material having at least one alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane having at least one Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups , In this case, the catalyst used is again a metal-containing catalyst. For the reaction of an Si-OH group with an Si-OR group, there are many catalysts known from the literature, for example organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes. Examples include stannous octoate, dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin triceroate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, triethyltin tartrate, tin oleate, tin naphthenate, tin butyrate, tin acetate, tin benzoate, tin sebacate, Tin succinate, tetrabutyl titanate, tetraisopropyl titanate, tetraphenyl titanate, tetraoctadecyl titanate, titanium naphthanate, ethyl triethanolamine titanate, titanium diisopropyl diethyl acetoacetate, titanium diisopropoxy diacetyl acetonate and titanium tetra alkoxides in which the alkoxide is butoxy or propoxy.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R ₃ Si [O-SiR 2] χ- (CH ₂ ) _n - [O-SiR ₂ ] _y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the d. ₂₀ -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x or y is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. According to preferred means of the embodiment with a silicone are characterized in that the silicone is water-soluble.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

O) _b -R (Si-6)

R ¹ - Si- ^■ [OSi (CH ₃₎ _2] _x - (OC ₂ H ₄₎ _a - (OC ₃ H ₆₎ _b -OR "

(Si-7) where the radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, a

Alkoxy group having 1 to 12 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "are alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is a integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

Compounds falling within the above formulas are disclosed in the following patent applications, which are incorporated herein by reference: US-A-4,122,029; US-A-4,265,878; US-A-4,421,769 and GB-A-2,066,659.

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).

Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicone copolyols can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, as an aid for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers as Auxiliaries are used. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

When the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

The dimethicone copolyols (S3) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible for the dimethicone copolyols to form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, the amount of Dimethiconcopolyol up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt.% Based on the total composition.

Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. Dimethiconols form a further group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols of the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8 - I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):

R ²

I (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _x - Si - O - (SiR ² ₂ - O -) _y - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ )

I (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _z - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ )

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1,000 D and 10000000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ⁰ C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are from 1000 to 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

When the dimethiconols of the invention are used as an emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 μm to 10,000 μm, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 μm, and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously referred to Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), THV 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

If a mixture of at least two silicones is used, this mixture is in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .% And in particular 0.1 to 5 wt.% Of silicone mixture based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the mixture of silicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that a mixture of a plurality of fatty substances (D) from different classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fatty substances, can be used in the compositions according to the invention. The preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components necessarily contain at least one further silicone component in this case. Preferably, the Silicone component in this case selected from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof (P).

Proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of the skin and hair. Strengthening of the structure, that is to say restructuring in the sense of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage to the skin caused by most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured areas of the skin and restructured hair are characterized, for example, by improved strength, reduced roughness or improved grip. In addition, they have an optimized strength and elasticity.

Proteins and protein hydrolysates have been known for a long time and are widely used in cosmetics. Reference is made to the relevant literature. Of course, these protein hydrolysates, which have been known for a long time, can be used in an outstanding manner together with the novel protein hydrolysates and derivatives of the wool of the vicuna according to the invention.

It has long been known to use proteins but also modified proteins to achieve care effects in cosmetic preparations. Either water-soluble proteins or proteins modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, ie made water-soluble, are used for this purpose. In the case of the reactions to achieve adequate solubility in water, fibrous proteins often require such extensive degradation that the cosmetic effectiveness is no longer sufficient.

As a result, in particular an increase in mildness and skin compatibility but also, if desired, a fine creamy foam is achieved when the compositions according to the invention are used. This in its structure very fine, creamy and as extreme pleasantly feeling foam is achieved in all compositions, in which in particular surface-active substances are contained as further ingredients. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention is further increased by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases, even after the application of the particular composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative remains on the surface of the hair, resulting in an improved effect. The hair is thus significantly strengthened and smoothed in its structure. This effect is also clearly detectable with objective proofs of effectiveness such as, for example, the measurement of the combing forces of wet and dry hair, the measurement of the breaking forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin. A confirmation of these results can also be found in the results of the consumer tests.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. Of course, the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters. In the case of the N-acyl derivatives, the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters, the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course, the amino acids on both the N- Atom as well as be derivatized at the O atom at the same time. Of course, the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.

Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline , Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine. Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are very particularly preferably used. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes or soya are known. To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially. Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum." They are preferably native to tropical areas.The various parts of this genus of plants have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.From the seeds of the Moringa growths by a gentle extraction with water and This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons Preferred is a protein extract with a molecular weight of 3,000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 daltons The most preferred extract is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera The extract according to the invention naturally contains water and glycerol on the basis of the extraction The content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20% by weight A content of protein of 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred an extract with a protein content of 0.01 up to 5% by weight n are contained in the extract at least 30 wt.% Glycerol. Finally, water is contained in the extract according to the invention.

In the cosmetic compositions, the above-described protein extract from the seeds of the Moringa growths is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preferably, amounts of the extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition used.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.

Beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be easily obtained from cultivated mussels. The cultivation of the mussels can be done in fresh water as well as in sea water. This can affect the ingredients of the beads. Preferred according to the invention is a pearl extract which is obtained from in seawater or salt water cultured mussels. The pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Also included in beads are magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds, and phosphates.

To prepare the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the preparation of the pearl extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are understood to mean both demineralized water and seawater. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water or sea water, preferably. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions, the pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can be largely in the native state or already partially or largely present as protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albuminoid are already partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous if the bead extract is additionally enriched with at least one or more of these amino acids these amino acids. In the most preferred embodiment, the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.

Furthermore, depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending on the choice of extractant, a more or less large proportion of minerals and trace elements in the extract is found again. A preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic calcium salts as well as magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of the naturally occurring pearls.

Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions, one of the above-described pearl extracts is contained in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20% by weight. Preference is given to quantities of Extract of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Most preferably used amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Based on the total cosmetic composition.

Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

Silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of the sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr) ,

The water-insoluble fibroin belongs to the skieroproteins with a long-chain molecular structure. The main components of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another important structural feature of the fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-G Iy-Ala-G Iy-Ala-G Iy.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are understood in particular as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Siik. DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.

The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. For example, the Pentapharm sales brochure describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as a soothing, hydrating agent and film-making. The properties of a shampoo containing sericin as a caring component are described in "Ärztlichen Kosmetologie 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative is described, for example, in DE 31 39 438 A1 as a caring and curative for the hair.

Preference according to the invention as active ingredients may be used: native sericin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed SiIk, a mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their Methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture, the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10 to 40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably to 100 wt.% supplement, as well as their mixtures.

According to the invention can also be used as active ingredients: native, converted into a soluble form fibroin, hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as the main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, the amino acid sequence Ser -Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly, a mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, Tartrates, wherein in this mixture, the glycine and / or its derivatives in amounts of 20 to 60 wt.%, The alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10 to 40 wt.%, And the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .% are included, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100 wt.%, And their mixtures. If both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used simultaneously in the compositions according to the invention of the inventive composition, it may be preferred according to the invention that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin, is used in the native or, if appropriate, solubilized form. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.

When a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention that the two silk protein hydrolysates are in the ratio of 10:90 to 70:30, in particular 15:85 to 50:50 and very particularly 20:80 be used to 40:60 based on their respective contents of active ingredient in the preparations of the invention.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives of the present invention include the products commercially available under the INCI names: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiC, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl SiCl Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed SiCl, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiIk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silica, Quaternium -79 Hydrolyzed SiIk. Typical examples of the anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention include the products mentioned under the INCI names and commercially available: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silicon, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silicon or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silicon. Finally, as typical examples for the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention, the products commercially available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed SiIk.

The compositions used according to the invention contain the silk protein hydroxysates and / or derivatives thereof in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 to C ₄ alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the inventive compositions amount 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The skin, which naturally also includes the scalp, leaves behind the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a much better-looking, more vital, stronger impression with significantly improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and in the dry state. Furthermore, this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and damaged hair, leads to a regulation of the fat balance, so that the thus treated skin and hair greases more slowly and not prone to over-greasing. In addition, this ingredient has an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect. Finally, the split hair is regenerated and repaired by these agents again. These ingredients are able to penetrate the hair and strengthen and repair the hair from the inside out. This "repair effect" can be demonstrated objectively by means of DSC measurements, for example, these effects can also be verified subjectively in the consumer test.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include vitamin B ₁ (thiamine) vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)

Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. According to the invention, the Nico tainamide, which is contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. B. cetyl trimethyl ammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or fluoride, known as amine N, N, N ^'tris (2-hydroxyethyl) ^-N' -octadecyl-1, 3-diaminopropan- dihydrofluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. B. the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil® IB, ICI) or the 1, 1 ^' hexamethylene bis (4-chlorophenyl) biguanide ("chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-soluble, compatible salt, e.g. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, the 1, 3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the

6,6 ^'- methylene-bis- (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ( "bromochlorophene") and ^{^{2,4,4'-trichloro-2'}} hydroxy-diphenyl ether ( "triclosan").

Further suitable antimicrobial substances are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such. As the bisabolol, farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol.

Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further synergistic advantages. Therefore, the use of these substances is particularly advantageous.

Such combinations cause inter alia a pleasant fragrance of both the cosmetic composition, as well as the skin treated therewith and the treated hair. In this case, it may even be possible to dispense with the addition of further perfume oils and fragrances.

Furthermore, these plant extracts according to the invention also favorably influence the moisture balance of the skin and the hair. In addition, they have an anti-inflammatory and skin-calming effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian are used. Stinging nettles, hops, birch and burdock roots, for example, show particularly good hair-related effects. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves or the roots of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts listed in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergent e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root.

Particularly preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian, coffee, cocoa, moringa, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Especially suitable for the composition according to the invention are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

According to the invention, it may be highly preferred if so-called Ayurvedic plant extracts are used as plant extracts. An ayurvedic plant extract is to be understood as any plant extract which has been prepared according to the principles of Ayurvedic teachings. The fundamentals of Ayurvedic teaching can be found in the so-called "Veda." In Ayurvedic treatment with ayurvedic extracts and oils, three different treatments are usually performed by Ayurvedic therapists.

Traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). For the purposes of the present invention, preference is given to cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala). Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that mixtures of at least two of the ayurvedic plant extracts are used in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be preferred if one of the ayurvedic plant extracts is bilwa.

Santalum album (Chandana) is one of the sandalwood plants. Sandalwood is understood to mean woods of the family Fabaceae as well as woods of the family Santalaceae. The Santalaceae family includes, for example, Santalum album, the sandalwood tree. This supplies the white or yellow sandalwood. From the yellow sandalwood essential oils, the sandalwood, are obtained, which are also used in Western homeopathy in the case of urinary tract infections or kidney disease. In cosmetics, these essential oils are used exclusively as perfume oils or as components of perfume oil compositions. In particular, the steam extracted products are used as perfume oil ingredients.

Aegle Marmelos or Bilwa is a member of the Rutaceae family, which are related to citrus fruits. The tree is known in both Ayurvedic and Western homeopathic teaching. Bilwa is used especially in case of stomach ailments and diarrhea. In the compositions according to the invention, bilwa can help to improve the foaming behavior, such as foaming, foam volume, creaminess of the foam or the fine-poredness of the foam. At the same time, the necessary amount of surfactants and / or emulsifiers can be reduced. This in turn leads to a better compatibility of the respective cosmetic compositions. In particular, together with mild anionic surfactants, these effects of the Bilwa are achieved.

Cyperus rotundus (Nagar motha) is a grassy plant. In Ayurvedic medicine as well as in Greek medicine Cyperus rotundus has been used as an anti-inflammatory. Emblica officinalis (Amalki) is one of the oldest Indian fruits. The fruits are exceptionally nutritious and contain large amounts of vitamin C, among other things. Since this fruit contains five of the six tastes of human taste perception, this fruit is considered the best fruit in Ayurvedic teachings and most useful for maintaining health and healing Considered diseases. Based on scientific research, it is known that this fruit contains unique tannins and flavonoids.

Morinda Citrifolia (Ashyuka) has been used to treat almost all diseases. In particular, however, high blood pressure, heart problems and diabetes were treated with it.

Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) is one of the succulents. In Ayurvedic medicine, the plant is used as an anti-inflammatory, against arthritis and allergies.

Crocus sativus (Kumkuma) is widely used in India. It is used especially in rice dishes. In the teachings of Ayurveda, it also serves as an aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it should have fever-lowering effects. In food it is used as a spice and for coloring foods.

Nelumbo nucifera is a lotus plant. Both in the Indian teachings of Ayurveda and in Chinese medicine, Lotus is described as a benefactor for the entire physique. Lotus is also the symbol of prosperity, beauty, wealth and fertility.

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum is used as a warming plant. It stimulates blood circulation, especially of the outer limbs such as fingers and feet. It is therefore also used for colds. It increases the bioavailability of other plant extracts. Furthermore, it is used as a spice for food and drinks. In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, it may be particularly preferable to use Cinnamomum Zeylanikum as an Ayurvedic extract, if at the same time further plant extracts are to be used in the compositions according to the invention. This applies in particular to the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian , Coffee, cocoa, moringa, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. All these last-mentioned extracts have in common that they produce specific effects. These effects are the promotion of the blood circulation of the skin, a skin soothing effect, a growth, especially in the case of small skin lesions, promoting action, anticatalytic activity and regulation of sebum production of the skin to name only the essential effects.

Finally, in the compositions according to the invention it is furthermore advantageously possible to use an extract of a sweetgrass. Sweet grasses are botanically associated with the family Poaceae. The Poaceae comprise about 9,000 known species in about 650 genera. Its distribution is worldwide. The sweet grasses family have been very important for humans since ancient times. For example, the grasses include the cereals, but also sugar cane or lemongrass. Chemically, especially the seeds of the sweet grasses contain high levels of the proteins prolamins and glutamines. Examples of particularly important representatives are wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various types of millet (European millet, finger millet, millet as examples), sugar cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, oat oat, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistle grass, bamboo, cotton grass , also called cogon grass. As can only be seen from these few examples, the grasses are used very widely by humans for nutrition, as medicinal plants or as building material. In cosmetics, for example, the starch obtained from corn, rice or wheat is used. But essential oils, such as citronella oil from Cymbopogon are already used in cosmetics. Finally, the protein fractions obtained from the fruits of wheat, for example, are used to produce protein hydrolysates and their derivatives. In contrast, little is known about the use of the roots of sweet grasses. In the case of the extracts of the Poaceae according to the invention extracts of the roots of the respective grasses are used predominantly. Of course, however, extracts of all other plant parts can be used.

The Poaceae family is described in various textbooks. The details of each species vary between 9000 and 12000 species. However, the division into 13 subfamilies is uniform. The subfamilies as well as selected examples are:

1) anomochlooideae,

2) Pharoideae,

3) Puelioideae,

4) Aristidoideae,

5) Danthonioideae,

6) Arundinoideae,

7) Centothecoideae,

8) Chloridoideae, for example buffalo grass, silt grasses, dog tooth grasses or love grasses, 9) panicoideae, for example cymbopogon (lemongrass), sugar cane, zea (corn), paniceae (millet), lamprey grasses, andropogonodeae (also known as imperium cylindrica, grass or cogon grass),

10) Bambusoideae, for example bamboo,

11) Ehrhartoideae, for example Oryzeae (rice) or Zizania (wild rice),

12) Pooideae, for example aveneae (oat grass, oat oat, oats, honey grasses, perennial oats), Poeae (grasses, bluegrasses), Triticeae (couch grass, barley, wheat, rye) and

13) other species, which are not classified in any of the aforementioned subfamilies.

In principle, all types are suitable according to the invention for obtaining an extract from the roots. In principle, according to the invention, all root extracts of the Poaceae can also be used. According to the invention, however, the use of root extracts which are particularly rich in alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, in elements of the I and II subgroups of the Periodic Table and in organic and / or inorganic sulfur are preferred. This applies in particular to the extracts of the subfamilies 8) to 12). Preferred extracts are used from one of groups 9) to 12). Particularly preferred is an extract from one of groups 9) and 10). Within the groups 9) and 10), the extract of bamboo and flame grass is very particularly preferred. Most preferred is the extract from the roots of the flame grass, Imperata Cylindrica. Such a raw material, for example, under the trade name Moist 24 ^® by the company. Sederma commercially available.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that these extracts according to the invention themselves may in turn be part of a mixture of various further cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically usable premixes. For example, an extract of the invention may be included as a component of drug capsules from which it is released during use. Of course, such active ingredient capsules may also have further independent effects in the agents according to the invention. Such effects may be, for example, an exfoliating effect caused by the capsule as such. However, in general, the capsule shell is destroyed and released the active substance extract according to the invention and can in turn develop its effect. Such raw materials are available, for example from the company Cognis under the trade name Primasponge ^® commercially. An inventive representative of these raw materials is for example Primaspong SS Ivory, which contains a bamboo extract according to the invention. Another particularly preferred plant extract is an extract obtainable from plants of the genus Echinacea. This is to be understood as meaning an extract which, according to the invention, comprises the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and press juices of the sun-hat family (Echinacea, synonym: Brauneria Necker), in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), as well as to understand from these extracts to be recovered active substances. Particular preference is given to using pressed juices and extracts of sun-hatch plants, in particular of Echinacea purpurea (L) Moench.

Preferably, the pressed juices or extracts of herb (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root of Sonnenhutgewächse be obtained. The pressed juices are preferably obtained by mechanical pressing. Particularly preferred is a pressing according to the patented by the company. Flachsmann method according to EP 0 730 830 B1, the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.

The extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred.

It is possible to use both the extracts both in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures. Preferably, extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed. However, it is also possible to use those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used. Very particular preference is given to pressed juices from the fresh Echinacea purpurea herb (Echinacea purpurea Moench herba). In particular, the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient obtainable from plants of the genus Echinacea selected from pressed juices and extracts obtained from Echinacea purpurea. Other very special extracts, which are obtained from vegetable products, are the raw materials Vitis vinifera known under the INCII name. Under this name, both wine extracts and champagne extract are to be understood. Wine is an extremely complex mixture. To this day, not all ingredients of wine are clarified. After all, "wine" is not the same as "wine". Also white wine, red wine or rose is still too inaccurate. Strictly speaking, the respective grape variety should always be mentioned. As the research results of the University of Mainz show, wine consists of up to 800 different chemical substances. However, only about 400 different substances are known in their structure. Furthermore, the composition of the wine varies depending on grape variety, location, soil on which the vine grows, season, hours of sunshine, etc. A good sommelier, for example, is able to distinguish between two successive vintages in terms of taste, given the same situation, the same grape variety and the same aging of the wine. Therefore, it is not surprising if a wine extract is not the same as wine extract. Rather, it is also decisive here, from which grape variety, from which location, on which soil the relevant extracted plants have grown. There are now more than 16,000 grape varieties known. Nevertheless, according to the INCII declaration, only wine extracts are labeled "vitis vinifera".

Moderate and regular consumption of wine stimulates now scientifically proven the digestion. Wine prevents arteriosclerosis, keeps the vessels elastic and lowers blood lipid levels. The age-related degradation of brain functions is slowed down and thus the mental fitness is increased in old age. So it is not surprising that wine in different variants has found its way into cosmetic compositions.

A special and exclusive way of preparing wine is champagne. Champagne is made from Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, and when vines are grown, special care is taken to ensure that the nutrients in the soil best meet the growth of the grapes This particular way of growing the champagne grapes is continued in the pressing process, in particular the gentle treatment of the grapes prevents the color of the peel and the bittering in the must.

So special is the champagne among the wine drinks due to the special care and the special procedure in the production of sparkling wine, it is not surprising that Champagne itself has also found its way into cosmetic preparations. For example, skin creams are described in emulsion form, which were prepared with champagne as a solvent. However, the use of champagne as a solvent instead of water is very expensive. In addition, in the conventional hot process for the preparation of skin creams at temperatures of 75 ⁰ C and higher, essential ingredients of a thermal decomposition.

The extract of the champagne used in the present invention has not only the excellent known effects of the champagne as such, but moreover, in some of the user of cosmetic products significant advantages in connection with the compositions of the invention. If champagne itself is used in cosmetic compositions, substances may also be contained by the champagne in these cosmetic compositions, which show sensitizing or carcinogenic or toxic properties. However, when champagne is extracted at room temperature with a circulating glycerol-water mixture, a champagne extract is obtained which does not contain any ingredients having adverse effects. On the other hand, the ingredients of the champagne, which are relevant for the stimulating, anti-inflammatory, allergy-calming, astringent, antioxidant and vascular-strengthening effects, are still included. Furthermore, such a champagne extract is available in an almost constant quality. Finally, in the preparation of cosmetic compositions, the champagne extract can be added to a process step in which the temperature-sensitive ingredients are no longer subject to decomposition.

In addition to the excellent process properties of the champagne extract, it has further surprisingly been found that the champagne extract according to the invention in cosmetic compositions leads to a significantly improved moisture retention capacity of the skin and hair treated therewith. Associated with this, the skin feel and feel of dry skin and dry hair, as well as wet skin and wet hair, are described as being much more pleasant, gentler, softer, smoother and supple by subjects.

Although a champagne extract, like a wine extract, is usually obtained from the leaves, vines or grapes, and also from the aspect that the champagne extract and wine extract have the same INCII name "vinis vinifera", both extracts are distinctly different This is based on the special way how Champagne is cultivated and cultivated as well in the special way of processing the champagne grapes. For example, in the processing of the champagne grapes great emphasis is placed on the fact that the color and bitter substances of the grapes do not reach the juice of the grapes. Therefore, unlike the wine extract, the champagne extract does not or only to a very minor extent contain these ingredients as an impurity. Consequently, the properties of a wine extract and of the champagne extract according to the invention also differ.

Suitable extractants for producing the champagne extract according to the invention may include water, alcohols and ethoxylates of lower alcohols such as polyglycols and polypropylene glycols with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 mole of ethylene oxide up to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 1 mole to 50 moles, more preferably from 1 mole to 20 Mol ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof are used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, tertiary butanol, pentanols, hexanols, heptanols and octanols, and their ethoxilates with degrees of ethoxylation as described above, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerol and their ethoxylates with ethoxylation levels as previously shown, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable. For cosmetic purposes, extracts based on water / glycerol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 are also very well suited. Extracts having excellent activity are obtained when pure propylene glycol is used as the extractant.

Finally, a champagne extract which is most preferred according to the invention is obtained by subjecting the champagne produced by the customary processes to a liquid-liquid extraction. For this purpose, the champagne is extracted at room temperature with a circulating mixture of glycerol and water. Obtained is about 0.1 to 10% champagne extract. The ratio of glycerol to water in the extraction is about 10: 1 to 1: 1. A ratio of 10: 1 to 2: 1 is preferred. An example of a very particularly preferred champagne extract is the commercial product under the name Champagne ^Extract® Company Botanica.

The champagne extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 0.1 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture. Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes the knowledge that instead of the Chamapagner extract each isolated ingredients of the champagne can be used. The present invention also encompasses the teaching that the extracts according to the invention can additionally be enriched with the abovementioned individual compounds, which may be contained in the respective extract, both as a respective individual compound and as a mixture of different compounds. The use of the champagne extract is preferred according to the invention.

The champagne extract according to the invention is present in the cosmetic preparations in amounts of from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 5 wt.% In each case based on the total composition.

As extraction agent for the preparation of all of the aforementioned plant extracts, unless other extractants or methods are mentioned in the extracts themselves, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, in particular of at least two or more different plant extracts.

In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions. Rock crystal is a modification of silica. Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material. For example, quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda. Sand, which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as peeling body. In addition, quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special. The varieties of rock crystal, amethyst, smoky quartz, chrysoprase, citrine, morion or rose quartz are very much in demand as gemstones both as home decoration and as garment jewelery in many cultures. These crystals and minerals are a symbol of beauty, shine and riches. It has often been and is believed that these crystals have healing properties because they are water turned to stone. Other minerals containing amorphous or finely divided silica are the opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. In the following quartz refers exclusively to the mineral, crystallized modifications of the quartz, which satisfy the structural formula SiO ₂ and are free of impurities. Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example. Under no circumstances are the term "quartz" understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc. In particular, the term "quartz" understood and can be used according to the invention: quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, Amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. Preference is given to quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.

Finely ground quartz and an extract of finely ground quartz is used in cosmetic compositions to give the skin and hair a velvety, soft, pleasant feeling. Furthermore, the gloss of skin and hair is remarkably increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable stress on the skin and hair. Also on the hair subsequent treatments such as cold wave or dyeing processes are not only not adversely affected but there is no impairment.

The finely ground quartz, the quartz powder, is obtained by conventional methods for comminution and grinding of rocks. Quartz powder is used especially in particle sizes from 0.5 μm up to 500 μm. Particular preference is given to particle sizes of from 0.5 to 250 μm, very particularly preferably from 10 μm to 200 μm. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the finely-milled quartz is extracted by means of protic solvents and the resulting quartz extract is used in the cosmetic compositions. Also in this embodiment, quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, Rock crystal, smoky quartz, amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint used as starting materials for making a flour and subsequent extraction to the "quartz extract". Preferably used quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate are very particularly preferred smoky quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal is used, most preferably rock crystal.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanols, hexanols or heptanols, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and glycols, in particular glycol, diglycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol , Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water, mineral water or seawater. Extracts based on water and polyhydric alcohols in the ratio 1: 50 to 50: 1 have proved to be suitable according to the invention. A ratio of 1: 25 to 25: 1 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, with a ratio of water to polyhydric alcohol of 3: 1 to 1: 1 being most preferred. The invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water. Under mineral water is to understand water, which comes naturally from mineralized sources. For example, the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Leau de Vichy, etc. As the extraction method, any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used. A quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon. Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm. Particularly preferred is an extract with a content of silicon of at least 50 ppm. Very particular preference is given to an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon. The amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. The quartz extract may optionally be adjusted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract. The quartz extract usually has a pH of 4 to 11, preferably 6 to 11, more preferably 7 to 10 and most preferably 7.5 to 9.5. If adjustment of the pH value of the quartz extract is necessary, then the pH is carried out with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and its salts or with organic acids and their salts such as imidodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. The adjustment of the pH of the quartz extract with acids, which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment. An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ^® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.

As a further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine. Purine (7 / - / - imidazo [4,5-c /] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of the purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, - OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ - CH ₃ , where the following compounds are preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H)

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic agent may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or lotions, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the shampoo) can be used.

In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol, for example Propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1 , 3-propanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Hydantoins show several desirable beneficial effects in cosmetic compositions. One of these effects is their ability to favorably influence the swelling of the skin and hair. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1, 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - each based on the total agent - most preferably.

In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0, 25% by weight of hydantoin and / or hydantoin derivative (s), preferably 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin)

contain.

Another group of very particular ingredients of the compositions of the invention are biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).

Ubiquinones are the most widely used and therefore best studied biochinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are referred to as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or by number of C atoms as U -5, U-10, U-15 and so on. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, eg. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q-10 predominates. Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. You are in the Mitochondria where they allow the cyclic oxidation and reduction of substrates of the citric acid cycle.

The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of the isoprene radicals and are designated accordingly, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

The or the biochinone (s) is (are) in the inventive compositions - by weight - in an amount of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in an amount of 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in an amount of 0 , 00001 to 0.5%. Another particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are betaines. Under betaines are not to be understood Betaine with surface-active properties, as described in the chapter on surfactants or emulsifiers.

Under a betaine for the purposes of the present invention, the compounds are to be understood, which at the same time both a group -NR ₃ ^<+) as well as a group -CR ₂ contain COO ^'' ', of similar structure sulfobetaines and compounds containing a moiety -NR ₃ ⁺ and a grouping -CH ₂ OH.This definition is based on the definition in Rompp ^'s Lexikon Chemie - CD-ROM Version 2.0, Stuttgart / New York, Georg Thieme Verlag 1999. In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which Correspond to formula (AI).

R ¹ R ² R ³ N ⁺ - (CR ⁴ R ⁵ ) _X - (CR ⁶ R ⁷ ) _y - (CR ⁸ R ⁹ ) _Z - Y ^" (AI)

R ¹ , R ² , and R ³ here independently of one another represent:

• hydrogen,

• a methyl radical,

• a C2 - C8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical

R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ , R ⁷ , R ⁸ and R ⁹ are here independently of one another:

• hydrogen,

• OR ¹⁰ ,

• -OCOR ¹¹ ,

A methyl radical which can carry a 1H-imidazolyl-4-substituent,

• a C ₂ -C 8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, where R ¹⁰ is hydrogen, -CH ₃ or a C ₂ -C 30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical and R ¹¹ is -CH ₃ or a C2 - C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, x, y and z are independently an integer from 0 to 12 with the proviso that at least one of the parameters x, y or z is other than 0 and Y ^" is COO ^" , SO ₃ ^" or a hydroxy group in combination with a physiologically acceptable anion.

For the purposes of the invention, betaines are also to be understood as meaning those substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups are present only in the case of the dissolved substance and within certain pH ranges of the solution.

Of course, all physiologically acceptable salts of the betaines according to the invention, in particular also the mixed salts of the betaines, can be used according to the invention. Mixed salts are solid solutions of various substances. For the generally accepted definition of mixed crystals as solid solutions, reference is made, for example, to H. R. Christen, Fundamentals of General and Inorganic Chemistry, Sauerlander and SaIIe, 5th edition, 1977, on page 245 and expressly incorporated by reference. Furthermore, the different types of mixed crystal formation, such as isomorphism, homeomorphism, heteromorphism, random mixed crystal formation also called double salt formation, mixed crystals with or without miscibility gap, etc., according to the definition of Hollemann - Wiberg, Lehrbuch der anorganischen Chemie, Walter de Gruyter, 81. - 90th edition 1976, Chapter VII, The chemical bond under cc) The mixed crystal formation described on page 114, according to the invention among the mixed crystals of the active compounds of the formula (I) according to the invention. This definition is also expressly referred to.

Among the mixed salts of the betaines, on the one hand, the inorganic mixed salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydroiodides, sulfates, sulfites, hydrogen sulfates, hydrogen sulfites, carbonates and bicarbonates, mono-, di-, triphosphates or mixtures of phosphates and mixtures of these mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used , On the other hand, the mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used with organic carboxylic acids. Suitable examples of such acids include formic, acetic, propionic, butyric, isobutyric, valeric, isovaleric, pivalic, oxalic, malonic, succinic, glutaric, glyceric, glyoxylic, adipic, pimelic, suberic, azelaic, sebacic, Propiolic, crotonic, isocrotonic, elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, 4-hydroxybenzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, salicylic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, Bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, A-hydroxy phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid.

It may furthermore be preferred to use in particular organic polyfunctional carboxylic acids which, in addition to at least one carboxy group, additionally have at least one hydroxyl group and / or at least one amino group. Examples of these organic carboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, etc., which are attributable to the edible acids. Furthermore, amino acids such as histidine, arginine, lysine, citrulline, etc. are among the polyfunctional organic acids which can be used as mixed salts with the active compounds (I) according to the invention. According to the invention, it may be preferable to incorporate the mixed salts into the formulations in solid form. However, it is of course also possible to use the mixed salts in the form of their individual components.

The mixing ratio of the mixed salts according to the invention can be between 1: 50 and 50: 1, preferably between 10: 1 and 1:10, and very particularly preferably based on the respective molar masses of the individual components (betaine of the formula (I) / mixed salt-forming substance) between 3: 1 and 1: 3.

Examples of betains of the formula (AI) which are particularly suitable according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3 O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithitate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalaine, 1, 1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), Ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-Na, Na, Na-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, Choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound designated as betaine in the literature N, N, N-trimethylglycine. These mixed salts may be preferred according to the invention.

Carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives are preferably used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I).

The agents according to the invention contain the betaines in amounts of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, based on the total agent. A content of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% is preferred.

All types of isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, isocyanate trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates can be used according to the invention.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate or taurine are used. The compositions according to the invention may contain both a compound according to formula (A-I) and several, in particular two, compounds of formula (A-I).

Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain pharmacologically active substances to achieve certain effects, such as, for example, an anti-dandruff effect or effects against acne.

Examples of pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid. These substances are contained in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the entire composition.

Finally, experimental findings show that the compositions according to the invention are particularly well suited to deposit perfume oils or perfumes on the skin and hair in an increased amount. At the same time the perfume oils and fragrances remain much longer on the skin or the hair adhere. This leads to an increased acceptance of such compositions in the consumer.

Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of the compositions of the invention are perfumes. The excellent and completely surprising positive results of compositions containing the active compounds and perfumes according to the invention has already been described in detail above.

The term perfume means perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.

Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, chamomile ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).

Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum.

Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate,

Ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, floramate, melusate, jasmecyclate and benzylsalicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones eg the Jonone, oc- | somethylionon and Methylcedrylketon, to the alcohols Anethol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Geraniol, Linalool, Phenylethylalkohol and Terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly the Terpene and Balsame like Limonen and pinas.

Preferably, however, mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together produce an attractive fragrance. Also, lower volatility volatile oils, which are most commonly used as aroma components, are useful as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange blossom oil, orange peel oil, sandalwood oil, neroliol allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal , Lavandin oil, muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur, iso-E-super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

Further examples of fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3 ^rd . Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, with molecular weight also playing an important role in addition to the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" As the smell perception is based to a large extent on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance consists not only of volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part from less volatile , ie adherent fragrances. Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, Arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil , Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaϊva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil , Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja l, thyme oil, verbena, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, oil of wintergreen, ylang - ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil, citronella oil, lemon oil, and cypress oil.

But the higher-boiling or solid fragrances of natural or synthetic origin can be used in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances. These compounds include the following compounds and mixtures thereof: ambrettolide, - amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, Bornyl acetate, - bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone di-methyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol , Isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor, karvakrol, karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, cu-marine, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methylnaphthyl ketone, methyl n-nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, Muskon, naph thiol ethyl ether, - naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, cyclohexyl salicylate, Santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cimat alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

Among the more volatile fragrances, which are advantageously used in the context of the present invention, in particular the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more readily volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All of the aforementioned fragrances can be used alone or in a mixture according to the present invention with the advantages already mentioned.

If the boiling points of the individual fragrances are substantially below 300 ^° C., then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present, wherein preferably at least 50% of the fragrances contained have a boiling point below 300 ^° C., advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%. , in an even more advantageous manner at least 80%, in an extremely advantageous manner at least 90%, in particular even 100%.

Boiling points below 300 ^° C. are advantageous because the fragrances in question would have too low a volatility at higher boiling points. However, in order to be able to "flow out" of the particle at least partially and to develop fragrance, a certain volatility of the fragrances is advantageous.

It has previously been observed that some unstable perfume ingredients are sometimes poorly compatible with carrier material and, upon incorporation into the carrier, at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier is a porous mineral carrier, such as clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated zeolite. Unstable fragrances for the purposes of this invention can be identified by incorporating a perfume composition comprising at least 6 fragrances into activated / dehydrated zeolite X and storing the resulting sample for 24 hours at room temperature. Then the fragrances are extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography to determine the stability. A fragrance is considered to be unstable in the context of this invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95 wt .-% of this perfume decomposed into degradation products, and in the extraction can not be provided again. Is in the inventive agent less than 15 wt .-%, preferably less than 8 wt .-%, advantageously less than 6 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, of unstable perfume, based on the total Amount of perfume ad / absorbed in / on the particle, there is a preferred embodiment of the invention, wherein the unstable perfume in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.

If the perfume adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4, advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6, more preferably at least 7, even more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least Contains 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.

When the logP value of the perfume components adsorbed in / on the particle ad / is substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, more preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, in particular 90% of the perfume components fulfill this log requirement, then a preferred embodiment of the invention is present.

The logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The stated conditions for the logP are advantageous because it ensures that the fragrances can be better retained in the pores of the support material and also better on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation, which comprises the particles according to the invention) precipitate. The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; for example, contains the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS), Irvine, California, many such values along with references to the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated, for example, with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS. <br /><br/> In the case of calculated logP values, one usually speaks of ClogP values Clog-P values should also be used for hydrophobicity estimation if there are no experimental logP values for certain perfume ingredients.

If desired, the perfume can also be combined with a perfume fixative. It is believed that perfume fixatives can slow the exhalation of higher volatile fractions of perfume.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the perfume which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material comprises a perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, musk (derivatives) and mixtures thereof, the fixative amount preferably being from 1 to 55% by weight. , Advantageously, 2 to 50 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 40 wt .-% of the total amount of perfume.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the particles contain a viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume-increasing agent, preferably PEG (polyethylene glycol), advantageously having a molecular weight of 400 to 2000, wherein the viscosity increasing agent in a preferred manner in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is contained, based on the particles.

It has been found that the viscosity of liquids, especially perfume-raising agents, further contribute to the stabilization of the perfume in the particle when nonionic surfactant is present at the same time. The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I:

H- (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OH (I),

in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.

The particularly preferred polyethylene glycols include those having molecular weights between 400 and 2000. It can be used in particular also polyethylene glycols, which are present in a liquid state at room temperature and a pressure of 1 bar; Here is mainly of polyethylene glycol with a molecular weight of 200, 400 and 600 the speech.

The perfumes are generally added in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, of the total composition.

The perfumes may be added to the compositions in liquid form, neat or diluted with a solvent for perfuming. Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerol, propylene glycol, 1, 2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, etc.

Furthermore, the perfumes for the compositions of the invention may be adsorbed to a carrier which provides both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product and a controlled release in use. Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulfate, silica gels, zeolites, gypsum, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete, etc., or organic materials such as woods and cellulosic based materials. The perfume oils for the compositions according to the invention can also be microencapsulated, spray-dried, present as inclusion complexes or as extrusion products and added in this form to the compositions to be perfumed.

Optionally, the properties of the perfume oils modified in this way can be further optimized by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with a view to a more targeted release of fragrance, for which purpose preferably wax-like plastics, such as, for example, As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.

The consumer, in the perception of the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by a aesthetically appealing packaging, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, may associate the composition of the invention with a stimulant such as confectionery or beverages. By this association, in particular in children, oral ingestion or swallowing of the cosmetic composition can not be ruled out in principle. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, the compositions according to the invention contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. Bitter substances which are soluble in water at 20 ^° C. to at least 5 g / l are preferred according to the invention.

With regard to an undesirable interaction with optionally contained in the cosmetic compositions fragrance components, in particular a change in perceived by the consumer fragrance, the ionogenic bitter substances have proved the nonionic superior, lonogenic bittering agents, preferably consisting of organic (s) cation (s) and organic (s) Anion (s), are therefore preferred for the inventive preparations.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ^® and Indige-stin ^® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6-Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

The bittering agent is contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the molding. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight. Advantageous in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can be used as an ingredient in the present invention. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

One use of the short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment of the pH of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention. The composition according to the invention, in conjunction with a short-chain carboxylic acid, leads to improved skin smoothness and to an improved skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also include the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. In addition, however, neutralized acids can also be used with alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts. Furthermore, for reasons of formulation it may be preferable to select the carboxylic acid as active ingredient from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

The very particularly preferred short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.

Examples of particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also includes that these acids are used in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of amino acids which are used as mixed salts with these hydroxycarboxylic acids can, are carnitine, taurine, histidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine. A typical representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is, for example, carnitine tartrate.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several active substances of this group.

The short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. The substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl, Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function may optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and phosphate esters.

Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, Toluoylsäure, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, Bicarbaminsäure, 4,4 ^'- dicyano-6, 6 ^{'-binicotinsäure,} 8-Carbamoyloctansäure, 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1, 2,4,6,7-Napthalinpentaessigsäure, malonaldehydic, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propanetricarboxylic acid, a Dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds of general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one will assume a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component. Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils. As the monocarboxylic acid component, in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Normally, in the case of reactions according to Diels-Alder, mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.

In addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI), those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water are also usable according to the invention be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is one Mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^® ^® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, which in the context of the present application also include the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl- and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts. However, in the context of the invention, neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ^® EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

According to the invention, it is very particularly preferred to use the so-called edible acids as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention. These active compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 5% by weight.

A particularly diverse and interesting cosmetic active ingredient group are polyhydroxy compounds. The use according to the invention of polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other components according to the invention can therefore be particularly preferred. Under polyhydroxy compounds to understand organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.

In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:

Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,

Ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols,

Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts, in particular monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and -OH and -NH protecting groups known in the literature, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,

Aminodeoxysugars, deoxysugars, thiosugars, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as, for example, the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore Form of the methyl ethers and may be present as phosphate esters,

Very particular preference is given here to monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH - protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters. Also preferred are oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also being protected in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by customary and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters.

Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotriose. Furthermore, reference is made to the relevant specialist literature such as Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section IM, pages 393 and following.

Preferred polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythrose, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose , Particular preference is given to using glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose. However, the use of glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose is very particularly preferred

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the active ingredient is at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups. Among these compounds, those having 2 to 12 OH groups, and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and other 1, 2-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n - CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.

Important representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols. Among the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, glycerin is of outstanding importance.

In summary, compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.

Irrespective of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups used, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s).

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV)

H (CH ₂ ) _k (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (IV)

in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

It has been found that mixtures of "short chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers have advantages. In this context, "short-chain or long-chain" refers to the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol. Mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 5 are particularly preferred or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more. Preferred are mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol , the heptapropylene glycol, the octapropylene glycol, the nonapropylene glycol, the decapropylene glycol, the dodecapropylene glycol or the tetradecapropylene glycol, both n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives being preferred.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) in which n is the number 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV) in which n represents the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5 : 1 to 1: 1.

Very particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols having 2 to 12 C atoms in the molecular skeleton. These polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or unsaturated. The hydroxyl groups are very particularly preferably terminally adjacent or terminally separated from one another by the remainder of the chain. Examples of these polyols are: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1, 2-butanediol , 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 2,3-butanetriol, 1, 2,4-butanetriol, pentanediols, for example 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1, 2- Hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, octanediols, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol, 1, 12-dodecanediol with 10 moles of EO, dodecadienols.

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as eis - trans - isomers, diastereomers, epimers, anomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds. The polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight. up to 10% by weight.

Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Particularly preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:

aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,

Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde

Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben

1, 2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-heptanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 2- hexadecanediol,

Formaldehyde-releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea

Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, methyldibromoglutaronitrile,

Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,

Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,

Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid Active ingredients with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,

Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,

Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and its salts,

As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

In a further particularly preferred type of the compositions according to the invention, the water activity in the compositions according to the invention can also be reduced to the extent that growth of microorganisms can no longer take place. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.

The compositions according to the invention contribute to the preservation being possible in an outstanding manner with the mild preservative additives. But the complete abandonment of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.

The amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably from 0 to 1 wt.% And most preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt.% Based on the total amount of the composition ,

Further optional ingredients of the compositions of the invention are Deowirkstoffe. Deodorants can not only be used in deodorants to prevent underarm sweating. They can also be used in skin care products to influence sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.

The inventive compositions significantly increase analytically detectable the deposition of deodorant substances on the skin and hair. In the panel test, this is also noticeable through a significantly prolonged effect.

As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. It will probably be through the Cleavage of the citric acid ester releases the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that thereby the enzymes are inhibited. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. 5-Chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol, which is marketed under the trade name Irgasan® by Ciba-Geigy, Basel / CH, has also proved to be particularly effective.

Preferred agents of the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier in addition to the

Combination of (a) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., And b) at least

Taurine and / or a derivative of taurine additionally one of the following

Active substance combinations (i) to (xii):

(i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one protein hydrolyzate,

(ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one

wheat protein,

(iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one

(V) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one protein hydrolyzate, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least a silk protein hydrolyzate, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one collagen protein hydrolyzate,

(ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one protein hydrolyzate, (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one wheat protein hydrolyzate, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one silk protein hydrolyzate, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one collagen protein hydrolyzate. Preferred agents according to the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii):

(i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer, (ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one amphoteric polymer, (iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas ( M 1) and / or

(M2), (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one amphoteric copolymer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of the formula (M 1) and at least one monomer of the formula (M3), (v) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer, (vi) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one amphoteric polymer, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one Monomer of the above formulas (M1) and / or (M2), (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one amphoteric Copoylmer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of formula (M1) and at least a monomer of the formula

(M3),

(ix) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer, (x) at least one bleach booster and at least one amphoteric polymer, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one cationic polymer derived from at least one monomer from the abovementioned formulas (M1) and or (M2), (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one amphoteric Copoylmer, which is composed essentially of at least one monomer of formula (M 1) and at least one monomer of formula (M3).

Preferred agents according to the invention contain in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., Additionally one of the following active compound combinations (i) to (xii): (i) at least one color-modifying component and at least one fatty substance,

(ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ -

Fatty alcohol,

(iii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (iv) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (v) at least one color-modifying component and at least one natural or synthetic oil body, (vi At least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one fatty substance, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic wax, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one natural or synthetic oil body, (xi) at least one bleach booster and at least one fatty substance, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohol, (xiii) at least one bleach booster and at least one C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, (xiv) at least one bleach booster and at least a natural or synthetic

Wax, (xv) at least one bleach booster and at least one natural or synthetic one

Oil body.

The alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as the alkalizing agent according to the invention are preferably selected from the group formed from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Completely according to the invention Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1, 3-diol.

The alkalizing agent is more preferably selected from at least one compound from the group formed from 2-aminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol, Potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, D-arginine, DL-arginine, N-methylglucamine, morpholine, imidazole and urea.

Combination of (a) at least one oxidizing agent (preferably hydrogen peroxide) and (b) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., In addition one of the following

Active substance combinations (i) to (xii):

(i) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia,

(ii) at least one color-modifying component and at least one alkanolamine,

(iii) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,

(iv) at least one color-modifying component and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol,

(v) at least one color-modifying component and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-arginine,

(vi) at least developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

Ammonia, (vii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and at least one alkanolamine, (viii) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

2-aminoethane-1-ol, (ix) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

Ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (x) at least one developer component (and optionally a coupler component) and

2-aminoethan-1-ol and L-arginine, (xi) at least one bleach booster and ammonia, (xii) at least one bleach booster and at least one alkanolamine, (xiii) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (xiv) at least one bleach booster and ammonia and 2-aminoethane-1-ol, (xv) at least one bleach booster and 2-aminoethane-1-ol and L-arginine.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. Under UV light protection filters are organic substances too to be able to absorb ultra-violet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and A-

(Dimethylamino) benzoesäureamylester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, A-

Propyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy

4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and

Octyl.

Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium,

Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the aforementioned soluble substances come for this Purpose also insoluble pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

In a particularly preferred form of the present invention, the preparations of litchie extract and taurine and / or derivatives thereof comprise at least one polyhydroxy compound. The polyhydroxy compound is in particular selected from the carbohydrates. An inventively most preferred carbohydrate is glucose. Glucose supports both the penetration of the composition according to the invention and the effects both on the hair surface and in the interior of the hair as well as the nutrition of the hair follicles.

Describe caffeine as a synergistic additive

In the case of vitamins, the vitamins of the B series are described as being particularly preferred, in particular B6.

Divalent metal ions represent synergists, in particular Ca, Mg, Zn. In this case, these can be introduced into the compositions as counterions, for example, of the surfactants.

Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid Copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers,

Vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers, Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and Mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber structure-improving agents, especially mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl -2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Active ingredients such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,

Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ ,

C, E, F and H,

Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel,

Hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera,

Spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime,

Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow,

Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hauhechel, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow,

Meristem, ginseng and ginger root ,.

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

fatty,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

pigments

Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,

Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,

Antioxidants. With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

For the second subject of the invention applies mutatis mutandis what has been said for the first subject of the invention.

As already mentioned, the high care effect of the agents according to the invention is of particular importance, in particular, since it gives excellent results even in the presence of oxidizing agents, for example in the context of oxidative hair dyeing.

A third subject of the invention is therefore a method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier is applied to the hair and rinsed by the hair after an exposure time, immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle, an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn., applied and, if appropriate, rinsed off again after a contact time and / or the oxidative cosmetic agent additionally an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with at least one catechin and / or at least one catechin derivative.

The exposure time of the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine is preferably a few seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most preferably 1 to 30 minutes.

Again, it is preferred according to the invention to use the method according to the invention in the context of an oxidative hair coloring, the oxidative hair bleaching or the fixation in the context of a permanent wave. It is preferred to apply the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine, together with the oxidizing agent on the hair.

In a preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention as an oxidative hair dyeing process, the extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn, in Combination with a taurine and / or a derivative of taurine as a constituent of a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier additionally at least one oxidizing agent and at least one oxidation dye precursor applied in one step.

The oxidative hair dyes of this embodiment are preferably two-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine and at least one oxidation dye precursor. The second component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. These components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Shortly before use, both components are mixed together.

In the embodiment of the method according to the invention as an oxidative hair bleaching method, the extract of the pericarp from Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine as a constituent of a cosmetic agent, additionally contains at least one oxidizing agent and at least one bleach booster in a cosmetic carrier applied in one step.

The oxidative hair bleaches of this embodiment are preferably two- or three-component agents. The first component contains in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine and optionally at least one bleach booster. The bleach booster may also be formulated separately from the extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and or a derivative of taurine, for example in powder form, as an anhydrous paste or an anhydrous oil. Thereby, a three-component agent is obtained. The last component contains at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier. All components are preferably packaged separately in each case in a compartment and provided together in a packaging unit (kit). Just before use, all components are mixed together.

The multi-component means described above for carrying out the method according to the invention can be provided in a packaging unit. The packaging unit may comprise at least either a container containing the agent of the second subject of the invention or may comprise at least two containers, a first container containing an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent in a cosmetic carrier, a second container containing a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier, an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine, and optionally a third container containing at least one bleaching booster embedded in a cosmetic carrier. All Kontainer can also be chambers of a multi-chamber container.

For the third subject of the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the first and second subject of the invention.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

B e i s p e e l e

The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods. The following commercial products were used as raw materials:

Hydrenol D ^® C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Lorol ^® techn. C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -FeHaIkOhOl (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis Germany)

Stenol ^® 16/18 C ₁₆ --i ₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis) Lorol ^® 16 INCI name: Cetyl Alcohol (Cognis) Eumulgin ^® B1 Cetyl stearyl alcohol with 12 EO units

(INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis Germany)

Eumulgin ^® B2 Cetylstearylalkohol with about 20 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis Germany)

Edenor ^® C14 myristic acid (INCI name: Myristic Acid) (Cognis) Turpinal SL ^® 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonic acid (INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia)

Plantapon ^® LGC Alkylpolyglucosid-carboxylate sodium salt; 30% active substance (Cognis Germany)

Texapon ^® NSO UP sodium lauryl ether sulfate (27% active ingredient, INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (manufacturer: COGNIS) Texapon K 14 S 70 C

Laurylmyristylethersulfat sodium salt (ca. 68% to 73% active substance content ^'; INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (Cognis)

Disponil FES 77 IS ^® fatty alcohol ether sulfate (ca. 31-33% active substance content in water; INCI name: Sodium Sulfate Coceth-30) (Cognis) Akypo Soft 45 NV ^® 2- (C _{_12-14} fatty alcohol ethoxylate (4.5 EO)) - acetic acid sodium salt; 21% active substance; INCI name: Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate (KAO) Gluadin ^® W 40 wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 40% solids;

Name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben) (Cognis)

Plantacare ^® 1200 UP Ci ₂ -i- _6- fatty alcohol-1,4-glucoside (about 50-53% active ingredient content, INCI name: Lauryl Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis)

Lamesoft ^® PO 65 alkylpolyglucoside monoglyceride mixture (about 65-70%

Solid; INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis)

Aculyn ^® 33% 30 wt .- active substance in water (INCI name: acrylates copolymer) (Rohm & Haas)

DOW ^Corning® DB 110 A Nonionic Silicone Emulsion (10% by Weight Active Ingredient) (INCI name: dimethicone) (Dow Corning)

Dimethyltaurat Aristoflex ^® AVC copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and Ammoniumacryloyl-; (INCI name: ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, t-butyl alcohol) (Clariant)

Polymer ^® W 37194 approx. 20% by weight of active substance content in water; INCI name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer

(Stockhausen)

Cremophor ^® A 25 C ₁₆ fatty alcohol ethoxylated with ₈ -i 25 units of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Ceteareth-25) (BASF)

Beis piel recipes

oxidative color change agents

To prepare a ready-to-use colorant 50 g of a tinting cream of Table 2.2.1 were mixed with stirring with 50 g of a developer according to Table 2.2.2. From each staining cream, three different mixtures were prepared with the help of one of the three developers according to Table 2.2.2. It resulted from each dyeing cream 3 different application mixtures, which differed only in the content of hydrogen peroxide. When applied to the hair of the head and with a contact time of 30 minutes, after rinsing and drying with each application mixture, an excellent dyeing result or for F6 brightening result was achieved.

coloring creams

2.2.2 Developer

shampoo

shine Tonic

hair gel

hair spray

Claims

Patent claims

1. Use of an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine

- for the equipment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, with UV protection,

to improve the gloss of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

to improve the combability of keratinous fibers, especially human hair,

to improve the grip of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair,

To improve the shape of keratin fibers, especially human hair and

- To maintain the natural growth of keratinic fibers, especially human hair.

2. A composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, a combination of (i) an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, and

(ii) taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it contains the extracted substances from the Perikarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in an amount of 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

4. Composition according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 0.00001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.00005 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001 to 5 , 0 wt .-% and in particular 0.001 to 3.0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.

5. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that it contains an extract from the seeds of legumes and / or the prickly pear.

6. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one color-modifying component.

7. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the color-changing component is selected (A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or

(b) from oxo dye precursors and / or

(c) from at least one direct dye and / or

(D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or

(e) at least one bleach booster.

8. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 7, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant.

9. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 8, characterized in that it contains as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds.

10. Composition according to one of claims 2 to 9, characterized in that it is an oxidizing agent in an amount of 1, 0 to 10.0 wt .-% based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, is included.

11. A method for oxidative hair treatment, in which an oxidative cosmetic agent, comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent is applied to the hair and rinsed after a period of action of the hair, characterized in that

- immediately before the application of the oxidative cosmetic agent, a cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine, applied and optionally rinsed again after a contact time and / / or

- the oxidative cosmetic product additionally contains an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn.,.

12. Packaging unit comprising in a first container an oxidative cosmetic agent comprising in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent and in a second container a cosmetic agent comprising in a cosmetic carrier an extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn, in combination with taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.