DE102007060528A1 - Hair conditioning compositions containing imidazolines and selected silicones and / or cosmetic oils - Google Patents

Hair conditioning compositions containing imidazolines and selected silicones and / or cosmetic oils

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Publication number
DE102007060528A1
DE102007060528A1 DE200710060528 DE102007060528A DE102007060528A1 DE 102007060528 A1 DE102007060528 A1 DE 102007060528A1 DE 200710060528 DE200710060528 DE 200710060528 DE 102007060528 A DE102007060528 A DE 102007060528A DE 102007060528 A1 DE102007060528 A1 DE 102007060528A1
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ch
acid
copolymer
group
preferably
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German (de)
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Dieter Dr. Goddinger
Marcus Krueger
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/494Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4946Imidazoles or their condensed derivatives, e.g. benzimidazoles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine

Abstract

There are described cosmetic preparations, in particular hair conditioning compositions, which contain at least one imidazoline derivative having at least two long fat residues and at least one silicone and / or at least one cosmetic oil, wherein the weight ratio of imidazoline derivative to silicones and / or cosmetic oils 20: 1 to 1: 20 is.

Description

  • The The invention relates to hair treatment compositions containing cationic Imidazolines and selected silicones and / or cosmetic oils and the use of these agents for the treatment of skin and hair.
  • The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. Apart from the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:
    For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components. The oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For naturally acting dyeings but usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading. If the dyes formed or used directly in the course of color formation have significantly different fastnesses (eg UV stability, perspiration fastness, washfastness, etc.), then a noticeable and therefore undesirable color shift can occur over time. This phenomenon occurs more frequently when the hairstyle has hair or hair zones of different degrees of damage. An example of this is long hair, in which the hair tips exposed for a long time to all sorts of environmental influences are usually much more damaged than the relatively newly regrown hair zones.
  • For temporary stains become common Dyeing or toning agents used as coloring Component so-called direct pullers included. This is it They are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. For example, these dyes already belong from antiquity to the coloring of body and hair known henna. These dyes are against shampooing usually much more sensitive than oxidative stains, so much faster then a much undesirable Shade shift or even a visible "discoloration" entry.
  • After all has recently a novel dyeing process received great attention. In this process are precursors the natural hair dye melanin applied to the hair; These then form natural analogues in the course of oxidative processes in the hair Dyes off. In such processes, for example, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline used as dye precursor. In, in particular multiple, Application of agents with 5,6-dihydroxyindoline it is possible People with graying hair the natural hair color play. The coloration can be done with atmospheric oxygen take place as the sole oxidant, so that no further oxidizing agent must be resorted to. In persons with originally medium blonde to brown Hair, the indoline can be used as the sole dye precursor become. For use with persons with original red and especially dark to black hair color can on the other hand, satisfactory results are often only possible through co-use further dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors, be achieved.
  • Not lastly by the heavy use of the hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by cleaning the hair with shampoos and environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect to. Such care products affect the natural Structure and properties of hair. So afterwards to such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combing hair that optimizes hold and the fullness of the hair his or her hair protected from increased splitting be.
  • It is therefore common for a long time, the hair of a special To undergo post-treatment. It will, usually in the form of a conditioner, the hair with special active ingredients, for example, quaternary ammonium salts or special ones Polymers, treated. This treatment will vary depending on the formulation the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair improves and reduces the split rate.
  • Farther have recently become so-called combination preparations designed to reduce the overhead of the usual multi-stage process, especially when used directly by consumers.
  • These Preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example, to clean the hair, in addition to active ingredients, which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; simultaneously The packaging costs are reduced because one product is less used becomes.
  • The available drugs for both separate aftertreatment agents as well as for combined preparations generally act preferentially on the hair surface. Thus, active substances are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, give better wet or dry combabilities or prevent the splits. As important as the outer one However, the appearance of the hair is the inner structural cohesion of hair fibers, especially in oxidative and reductive processes as coloring and perms are strongly influenced can.
  • The However, known active ingredients may not meet all needs cover adequately. It therefore persists a need for drugs or drug combinations for cosmetic products with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye and / or electrolyte-containing Formulations there is a need for additional caring Active ingredients that easily incorporate into known formulations to let.
  • In Hair conditioning agents are in addition to quaternary ammonium compounds as a hair-care component in recent times also silicones used. Among the silicones are in particular cyclomethicones, Dimethicones, dimethiconols or the amino-functional silicones established as a suitable agent with good properties. So wear these compounds increase the gloss and a pleasant soft grip of skin and hair.
  • Farther have cosmetic oils in hair cosmetic compositions proven. So these compounds also contribute to one Increase the shine and a pleasant soft touch of skin and hair.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds of the mono-, di- and / or trialkylammonium type have been known for a long time. A disadvantage of these compounds, however, is their lack of biodegradability. Therefore, cationic compounds containing at least one ester group, the so-called ester quats, have been developed. These, however, show a sensation of being unpleasantly dull in terms of the feel and feel of wet skin and hair as well as the touch and feel of the rewashed skin or hair, which is also perceived as "squeaky" audible. Cationic imidazolines are known to the person skilled in the art as a further class of cationic surfactants, for example from the international published patent application WO 2006/012930 ,
  • It has now turned out to be completely surprising that an active ingredient combination of at least one derivative of the Imidazolines, as shown in the formula I, with at least two long fatty chains and at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional Silicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group the dimethicone and / or the group of cosmetic oils achieved particularly advantageous results. A most preferred combination of active ingredients in addition to at least a derivative of imidazolines according to the formula I with at least two long chains of fat at least one more Dimethicone and / or a cyclomethicone and further at least one cosmetic oil.
  • At the Use of this combination, it comes to surprisingly good Properties of the treated skin and hair, in particular for improved combability, improved shine and to an improved elasticity as well as to a clear increased wash resistance of dyed hair, as well as to a longer shelf life with a simultaneous better forming performance in corrugations such as water wave and perm.
  • A first aspect of the present invention is therefore a composition for the treatment of keratinic fibers containing
    • a) at least one quaternary imidazoline derivative having at least two long fat residues according to the formula I and
    • b) at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group the amino-functional silicones and / or the group of cyclomethiconols and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cosmetic oils and / or mixtures thereof, wherein the weight ratio of imidazoline derivatives (a) to the respective silicone polymer or cosmetic oil or mixtures thereof (b) 20: 1 to 1:20 based on the respective active substance contents, and
    • c) a cosmetic carrier.
  • The agents according to the invention contain an active ingredient combination of at least two constituents, the constituents a) and b) within a certain weight ratio to each other be used. In preferred inventive Means is the weight ratio of imidazoline derivatives a) of the formula I to one of the silicone derivatives and / or the cosmetic oil b) 20: 1 to 1:20, more preferably 10: 1 to 1:10 particularly preferred 5: 1 to 1: 5 and especially 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5.
  • In the preferred case, in which in addition to the ingredient a) continue both a silicone polymer and a cosmetic oil is included, the weight ratio is between the silicone polymer and the cosmetic oil at least 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably 3: 1 to 1: 5, in particular 1: 3 and most preferably 1: 2.
  • In this preferred case, in which both at least one silicone polymer and further at least one cosmetic oil as a component b), the silicone polymer is preferably selected from the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. In this case, it may further be particularly preferred if both a dimethicone and a cyclomethicone together with the cosmetic oil is included.
  • The Ingredients a) and b) are described in detail below. As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken refers This statement on the in the inventive Means necessarily contained ingredients a), and b).
  • Hair treatment agents For the purposes of the present invention, for example, hair dyes, bleaching agents, Hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, Hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, Hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, Hair products, hair styling preparations, fönwell lotions, Mousse, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. in the With regard to the fact that the consumer, in particular However, men often use several different ones Avoid means and / or multiple application steps are inventive Means preferred such means, which the consumer, in particular the man is using anyway. Preferred inventive Agents are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics.
  • Under Combability according to the invention is understood both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability the dry fiber. As a measure of combability serves the spent combing work or the spent Force during the combing process of a fiber collective. The measuring parameters can be sensory by the person skilled in the art be assessed or quantified by measuring equipment.
  • When Grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, the expert sensory the parameters fullness and suppleness of the collective feels and evaluates.
  • Under Shaping is the ability to understand a collective previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human Hair to give a shape change. In the hair cosmetics is also spoken of hairdressing.
  • Under the maintenance of natural keratinous growth Fibers is understood to be the influences on the natural Hair growth through hair cosmetic treatments as previously shown be compensated in particular by oxidative hair treatments and no or at least slight impact on the natural Growth of keratinic fibers in terms of thickness growth, the growth in length and / or in relation to the hair fullness available. Thickness growth, length growth or the hair fullness can be both subjective and also be determined objectively or in different test models.
  • Under an oxidative hair treatment according to the invention Action of an oxidative cosmetic agent containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, defined on hair.
  • When Cosmetic carriers are particularly suitable according to the invention Creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming Solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, in particular for use are suitable on the hair. But it is also conceivable, the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-shaped Formulation to integrate, which before application in water is solved. The cosmetic carriers can especially aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic be.
  • One aqueous cosmetic carrier at least 50% by weight of water.
  • For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers include aqueous solutions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C 1 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-Pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
  • When Ingredient a) contain the inventive At least one quaternary imidazoline compound, d. H. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring. The formula I shown below shows the structure of this Links.
  • Figure 00070001
  • The Radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical with one chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of Formula I contain for R in each case the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particular preference is given to compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms, and most preferably with at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred Compound of formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is, for example known as Quaternium-91. In the formula I is represented as the counterion methosulfate. According to the invention However, as counterions, the halides such as chloride, fluoride, Bromide, or phosphates.
  • The Imidazolines of the formula I are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably in Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of Contain 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%. The best results will be in this case with amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% in each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • When Ingredient b) contain the inventive Means at least one silicone polymer selected from Group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional Silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group the cyclomethicone. These ingredients are described below.
  • silicone oils (Si) cause a variety of effects. That's how they affect you For example, at the same time the dry and wet combabilities, the grip of dry and wet hair as well as the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and Styles is positively influenced by silicones. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art Structures of organosilicon compounds.
  • With particular preference the silicones are selected from at least one member of the si organo-lithium compounds formed from:
    • (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
    • (ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:
    • a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;
    • b) (per) fluorinated groups;
    • c) thiol groups;
    • d) carboxylate groups;
    • e) hydroxylated groups;
    • f) alkoxylated groups;
    • g) acyloxyalkyl groups;
    • h) amphoteric groups;
    • i) bisulfite groups;
    • j) hydroxyacylamino groups;
    • k) carboxy groups;
    • l) sulfonic acid groups; and
    • m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;
    • (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) n type with n>3;
    • (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
    • (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
    • (vi) or mixtures thereof.
  • The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Si1): (SiR 1 3 ) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiR 1 3 ) (Si 1 )
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Si1.1):
    Figure 00090001
  • The radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R 1 and R 2 is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R 1 and R 2 are methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -. Preferred as R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of July 20, 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. The word "about" defines a deviation from the stated value following the word "about" which is customary in the art for technically manufactured products. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".
  • Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the " Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.
  • If the Dimethicone invention as an emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Become used branched dimethicones, so to understand it that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicones that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferred is a degree of branching greater than 0.1%, and most preferably from greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching becomes thereby from the relationship of the unbranched monomers, the is the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicones entirely particularly preferred.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si1.2) (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 ] x O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (Si 1.2), in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • It is in the context of the present invention as the silicone of the formula (Si1) preferably the compounds:
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 2 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 3 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 4 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 5 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 6 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 7 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 8 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 9 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 10 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 11 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 12 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 13 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 14 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 15 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 16 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 17 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 18 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 19 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 20 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3
    where (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 , (CH 3 ) 3 Si-O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si-O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 and / or (CH 3 ) 3 Si [O- (CH 3 ) 2 Si] 2 -O-Si (CH 3 ) 3 are particularly preferred.
  • Of course can also mixtures of o. g. Silicones in the preferred be included in the invention.
  • The Dimethicones (Si1) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the dimethicones have their own phase in the compositions of the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of dimethicone up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may, for. By the formula (Si-2) M (R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2 ) x (R c SiO (4-c) / 2 ) y M (Si-2)
  • Be described, taking in the above formula
    R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms,
    Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, in which
    R 1 is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
    Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
    a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
    b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
    a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
    c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
    x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
    y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
    M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R in formula (Si-2) include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2 ) z NH 2 , where z is an integer greater than or equal to one. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (OH 2 ) (OH 2 ) NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X is independently selected from X 2 from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 OH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. The molar ratio of the R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2 units to the R c SiO ( 4-c) / 2 units in formula (Si-2) is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula (Si-2) are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone mixture.
  • Preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3) R 'a G 3-a -Si (OSiG 2) n - (OSiG b R' 2-b) m -O-SiG 3-a -R 'a (Si-3), where:
    G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH ( CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -O-CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , -C ( CH 3 ) 3 ;
    a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
    b stands for a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
    m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
    R 'is a monovalent radical selected from
    -QN (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R") 2
    -QN (R '') 2
    -QN + (R '') 3 A -
    -QN + H (R '') 2 A -
    -QN + H 2 (R '') A -
    -QN (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R''H 2 A - ,
    wherein each Q is a chemical bond, -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 C (CH 3 ) 2 -, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 2 -,
    R '' is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the C 1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C ( CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Cationic silicone oils, such as the commercially available Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone referred to as amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5 are suitable according to the invention -7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th Goldschmidt; diquaternary. Polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80).
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)
    Figure 00140001
    in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are described, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilyl amodimethicone) available.
  • Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
    Figure 00140002
    contain, in which
    R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (C 1 to C 20 ) alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group,
    R 'is -OH, a (C 1 to C 20 ) alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group and
    m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values of from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • These Silicones are labeled according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized amodimethicones, such as bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone (For example, as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA the company Clariant available).
  • Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are cosmetic or dermatological according to the invention Preparations preferred which contain an amino-functional silicone its amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per Grams of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.
  • According to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations are characterized that, based on their weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% amino-functional silicone (s) included.
  • Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the amodimethicones have their own phase in the compositions of the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.
  • Only recently, completely novel polyammonium polysiloxane compounds are known in which the siloxane substructures are optionally connected to each other via ammonium substructures. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic products are described, for example, in the published patent application WO 02/10257 described.
  • As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:
    • a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA-, in which: A is one of the groups: -CH 2 C (O ) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH 2 -, -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, A 'means: -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -, -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas: - [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] r - and / or - [OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2 ] r, - [OCH 2 CH 2 ] q -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH 2 group of the group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom group E each with formation of Bind ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER 2 , wherein A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R 2 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, by -O-, or -C (O) may be interrupted and substituted with -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic,
    • a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,
    • a3) at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-, in which S is -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O- [Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] n -Si (R 1 ) 2 - and in which R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 - C 22 is fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when there are several groups S in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -hydrocarbon radical, represented by -O-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) - and -N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, or optionally a bond to a bivalent radical R 3 represents and wherein R 3 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH, or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case where ss K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group takes place,
    • a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (s) ammonium group (s).
  • The Polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they are the components defined above a1) to a4). The polysiloxane compounds are thereby by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) formed together. Component a4) serves for neutralization the positive charges resulting from component a2).
  • The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can Be oligomeric or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds include the case described below, wherein the polysiloxane compound is just a repeating unit having.
  • polymers Polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are formed naturally by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.
  • in the Case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention the terminal atomic groupings result from the terminal atomic groupings of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.
  • In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric invention Polysiloxane compounds linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). Thus, the linear polymeric invention Polysiloxane compounds, in particular those from the repeat units formed linear polymeric backbone, by alternating stringing of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals, the contain at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3). This means, in addition, if necessary, in the structural components existing free valences (as with trivalent residues as Component a2) or in the case of trivalent radicals K) preferably do not serve the structure of polymeric side chains or polymeric Branches.
  • These polyammonium polysiloxanes are conveniently prepared by one of the methods disclosed in the Laid-Open Publication WO 02/10257 are described.
  • The above-described polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, for example un ter the trade name Baysilone® ® GE Bayer Silicones be obtained. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
  • The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above in the compositions according to the invention in from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight each with respect to the total composition used.
  • The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
    Figure 00180001
    in which x is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
  • The silicones described above have a backbone, which is composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course These Si-O-Si units can also be replaced by carbon chains be interrupted. Corresponding molecules are by chain extension reactions accessible and preferably come in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions for use.
  • The silicone-in-water emulsions which can be used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes, as described, for example, in US Pat US 5,998,537 and EP 0 874 017 A1 are disclosed.
  • In summary For example, this method of preparation comprises the emulsifying mixture of Components, one of which contains at least one polysiloxane, the other of which contains at least one organosilicone material, that with the polysiloxane in a chain extension reaction reacting, wherein at least one metal ion-containing catalyst for the chain extension reaction, at least a surfactant and water are present.
  • Chain extension reactions with polysiloxanes are known and may include, for example, the hydrosilylation reaction in which an Si-H group having an aliphatically unsaturated group in the presence of a platinum / rhodium catalyst to form polysiloxanes having some Si (C) p Si bonds (p = 1-6), the polysiloxanes also being referred to as polysiloxanes-polysilalkylenes copolymers.
  • The Chain extension reaction can also be the reaction of a Si-OH group (for example, a hydroxy-terminated polysiloxane) with an alkoxy group (for example, alkoxysilanes, silicates or alkoxysiloxanes) in the presence of a metal-containing catalyst to form polysiloxanes.
  • The polysiloxanes used in the chain extension reaction comprise a substantially linear polymer of the following structure: R-Si (R 2 ) - [- O-Si (R 2 ) -] n -O-SiR 3
  • In this structure, each R independently represents a hydrocarbon radical having up to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as an alkyl group (for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl), an aryl group (for example, phenyl), or group required for the chain extension reaction ("reactive group", for example, Si-bonded H atoms, aliphatically unsaturated groups such as vinyl, allyl or hexenyl, hydroxy, alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy or propoxy, alkoxy-alkoxy, acetoxy, amino, etc.), with the proviso that on average one to two reactive groups per polymer n, is a positive number> 1. Preferably, a plurality of reactive groups, more preferably> 90%, and in particular> 98% of the reactive groups, bound to the terminal Si atoms in the siloxane. Preferably, n is numbers describing polysiloxanes having viscosities between 1 and 1,000,000 mm 2 / s, more preferably viscosities between 1,000 and 100,000 mm 2 / s.
  • The Polysiloxanes can be branched to a low degree (For example, <2 Mol% of the siloxane units), or the polymers are, however, substantial linear, particularly preferably completely linear. In addition, you can the substituents R in turn be substituted, for example with N-containing groups (for example amino groups), epoxy groups, S-containing groups, Si-containing groups, O-containing groups, etc. Preferably At least 80% of the radicals R are alkyl radicals, particularly preferred Methyl groups.
  • The Organosilicone material that reacts with the polysiloxane in the chain extension reaction may be either a second polysiloxane, or a molecule, which acts as a chain extender. When the organosilicone material is a polysiloxane, it has the above-mentioned general structure. In these cases, a polysiloxane has in the reaction has at least one reactive group and a second polysiloxane (At least) a second reactive group that reacts with the first.
  • If the organosilicone material is a chain extender agent this may be a material such as a silane, a siloxane (for example, disiloxane or trisiloxane) or a Silazane. For example, a composition that is a polysiloxane according to the general structure described above comprises, which has at least one Si-OH group, chain-extended be prepared by reacting with an alkoxysilane (for example, a dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane) in the presence of tin or titanium containing Catalysts is reacted.
  • The metal-containing catalysts in the chain extension reaction are usually specific for a particular reaction. Such catalysts are known in the art and include, for example, metals such as platinum, rhodium, tin, titanium, copper, lead, etc. In a preferred chain extension reaction, a polysiloxane having at least one aliphatically unsaturated group, preferably an end group, is reacted with an organosilicone material Presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst which is a siloxane or polysiloxane having at least one (preferably terminal) Si-H group. The polysiloxane has at least one aliphatically unsaturated group and satisfies the general formula given above in which R and n are as defined above, with an average of between 1 and 2 groups R having one aliphatically unsaturated group per polymer. Representative aliphatic unsaturated groups are, for example, vinyl, allyl, hexenyl and cyclohexenyl or a group R 2 CH = CHR 3 , in which R 2 is a divalent aliphatic silicon-bonded chain and R 3 is a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group. The organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group preferably has the above-mentioned structure, wherein R and n are as defined above and wherein, on average, between 1 and 2 groups R is hydrogen and n is 0 or a positive integer.
  • This Material may be a polymer or a low molecular weight material such as a siloxane (for example, a disiloxane or a trisiloxane).
  • The Polysiloxane with at least one aliphatic unsaturated Group and the organosilicone material having at least one Si-H group react in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst. Such Catalysts are known in the art and include For example, platinum and rhodium-containing materials. The Catalysts can take any known form, for example on support materials (such as silica gel or Activated carbon) applied platinum or rhodium or other suitable Compounds such as platinum chloride, salts of platinum or chloroplatinic acids. One because of the good dispersibility in Organosilikonsystemen and the low color change is preferred catalyst Chloroplatinic acid either as commercially available Hexahydrate or in anhydrous form.
  • at Another preferred chain extension reaction is a polysiloxane with at least one Si-OH group, preferably an end group, reacted with an organosilicone material which is at least has an alkoxy group, preferably a siloxane having at least a Si-OR group or an alkoxysilane having at least two alkoxy groups. In this case, the catalyst again is a metal-containing catalyst used.
  • For the reaction of an Si-OH group with an Si-OR group, there are many catalysts known from the literature, for example organometallic compounds such as organotin salts, titanates or titanium chelates or complexes. Examples include stannous octoate, dibutyltin dilaurate, dibutyltin diacetate, dimethyltin-dineodeca noate, dibutyltin dimethoxide, isobutyltin tricosterate, dimethyltin dibutyrate, dimethyltin dineodecanoate, triethyltin tartrate, tin oleate, tin naphthenate, tin butyrate, tin acetate, tin benzoate, tin sebacate, tin succinate, tetrabutyl titanate, tetraisopropyl titanate, tetraphenyl titanate, tetraoctadecyl titanate, titanium naphthanate, ethyl triethanolamine Titanate, titanium diisopropyl diethyl acetoacetate, titanium diisopropoxy diacetyl acetonate and titanium tetra alkoxides in which the alkoxide is butoxy or propoxy.
  • Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5) R 3 Si [O-SiR 2 ] x - (CH 2 ) n - [O-SiR 2 ] y -O-SiR 3 (Si-5), in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the C 1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , - C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y are a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, stand and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
  • When additional silicones in addition to the dimethicones according to the invention, Dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclomethicones can water-soluble silicones in the inventive Be contained compositions.
  • With Preferably, these optional silicones are water-soluble. Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are for example from the Compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7) selected. Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated are.
  • Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
    Figure 00220001
    wherein
    • The radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group,
    • The radicals R 'and R "represent alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms,
    • X is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30,
    • Y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and
    • A and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.
  • Compounds falling within the above formulas are disclosed in the following patent applications, which are incorporated by reference: US-A-4,122,029 ; US-A-4,265,878 ; US-A-4,421,769 and GB-A-2,066,659 ,
  • Especially Preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example commercially available under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow) distributed products.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred dimethicone copolyols are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 (Dow).
  • Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicone copolyols can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the " Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.
  • If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention as Emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, completely more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Become used branched dimethicone copolyols, it is to be understood as that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicone copolyols that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and whole more preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree The branching is thereby from the relationship of the unbranched Monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols be particularly preferred.
  • The Dimethicone copolyols are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the dimethicone copolyols have their own Phase in the compositions of the invention form. In this case, the amount of dimethicone copolyol can be up to to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. Dimethiconols form a further group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I): (SiOHR 1 2 ) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiOHR 1 2 ) (Si 8 -I)
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8-II):
    Figure 00230001
  • The radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably R 1 and R 2 is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and am most preferred R 1 and R 2 is methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylheh, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -. Preferred as R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of Dimethiconole both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to those skilled in the art getting produced. For this purpose can be used as an aid for the production the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers used as adjuvants become. Of course, the emulsions the dimethiconole also directly by an emulsion polymerization process getting produced. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • If the dimethiconols according to the invention as emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethiconols that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and very special preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, too the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched Dimethiconole very particularly be preferred.
  • When Examples of such products are the following commercial products called: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company, AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Elend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel 51 1400 (Dubois Fils Stearinerie), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).
  • The Dimethiconols (Si8) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethiconols form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking it is briefly homogenized. In this case, the amount of dimethiconol may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.
  • If a mixture of at least two silicones is used so is this mixture in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of Silicone mixture based on the composition included.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the mixture of silicones has its own Phase in the compositions of the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.
  • Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that a mixture of several ingredients b) from the different ones mentioned classes, at least two different classes in the used compositions of the invention can be.
  • Farther fall under the inventive component b) the active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention cosmetic oils. Preferably, these oil bodies a melting point less than 50 ° C, more preferably less than 45 ° C, most preferably less than 40 ° C, most preferably less than 35 ° C and most preferably, the cosmetic oils are at one Temperature less than 30 ° C flowable. In the following, these oils are defined in more detail and described.
  • The natural and synthetic cosmetic oils include, for example:
    • - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
    • Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
    • - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B ), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ® V).
    • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
    • Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
    • Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
    • - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-1),
      Figure 00280001
      in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • When natural oils come for example amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, Thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, Elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, Cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, Almond oil, Marula oil, Evening primrose oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, Sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, Sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or Rosehip Oil.
  • In The following table shows the average salaries in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention listed. Because the listed values are averages The respective fatty acids can be the sum of all fatty acids also be larger or smaller than 100%.
  • Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages. Table 1: Fatty Acid Salaries of Oils oil Palmitic acid (C16: 0) Palmitoleic acid (C16: 1) Stearic acid (C18: 0) Oleic acid (C18: 1) Linoleic acid (C18: 2) Linolenic acid (C18: 3) squalene Amaranth seed oil + 18 - 3 25 40 - 8th Apricot kernel oil 6 1 1 62 27 - - Argan oil + 12 - 5 45 35 - - avocado oil - 18 - 60 12 - - babassu 8th - 2 14 3 - - cottonseed 24 1 3 18 53 - - Borage seed oil + 11 - 4 17 38 21 - Camelina oil 6 - 3 19 16 38 Thistle oil + 7 0.2 3 15 75 - - Peanut oil + 10 4 41 36 - - Pomegranate seed oil 10 - 6 19 17 66 - Grapefruit seed oil + 8th 0.5 5 18 70 0.5 Hemp oil + 7 - 2 10 57 21 - Hazelnut oil + 5 - 2 75 15 - - Elderberry seed oil + 7 - 2 12 42 35 - Currant seed oil + 7 - 1 13 44 27 - jojoba oil 3 1 - 10 - - - Cocoa butter + 26 - 35 35 3 - - linseed oil 5 0.5 4 22 17 52 - macadamia nut oil 9 19 3 60 2 - - Corn oil 13 0.5 2 31 50 2 - almond oil 8th 1 2 70 22 - - marula 11 - 7 75 4 - - Evening primrose oil + 7 - 2 7 71 10 - olive oil 12 1 3 73 10 - 3 Palm oil + 42 5 41 10 - - rapeseed oil 4 1 60 20 9 - rice oil 42 37 4 Sea buckthorn oil 33 35 1 26 7 2 - Sea buckthorn seed oil 8th - 2 21 34 30 - Sesame oil + 11 - 4 39 42 - - shea butter - - 40 48 - - - Soybean oil + 10 5 21 53 8th Sunflower oil + 6 4 28 61 - - Tea seed oil 65-85 Grapeseed oil + 7 - 3 25 63 - - Walnut oil + 8th - 3 17 60 12 Wheat germ oil 16 - 1 17 57 7 - Wild Rose Oil + 4 - 2 15 46 33 -
  • preferred Natural oils contain at least the fatty acids Palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Particularly preferred natural oils contain the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of fatty acids. A plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table, these are particularly preferred natural oils. Very particularly preferred oils are still characterized by an additional content of squalene. Maximum preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a proportion of linolenic acids.
  • Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that at least two of those listed in the table above natural oils can be mixed together. In this case, the natural oils however, be selected such that the sum of the fatty acids Palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids results. Preferred mixtures of natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, Amaranth seed oil with shea butter, Amaranth seed oil with camelina oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, Amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, with olive oil Camelina oil, olive oil with shea butter, macadamia nut oil and at least one seabuckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil with Shea butter. More than at most three of the natural oils but should not be mixed together.
  • Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and is therefore an example of something be described in more detail. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It is considered to be the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it is also called "The Berber Gold." This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little is known about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions.
  • Argan oil is the oil of the seed of the argan fruit. The argan tree, Argania Spinosa, is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fears with plum or olive-like Appearance can not be consumed. The tree can be several times bear fruit in the year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The cores are about three times as big as hazelnuts. The Cores are pitched to recover the seeds.
  • These Seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to win the oil. Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil.
  • It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows by all known vegetable oils the strongest vitamin E. Activity. Furthermore, argan oil has a unique high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt .-%. This makes argan oil an excellent one suitable cooking oil and dietary supplements. And also in cosmetic compositions is argan oil due to its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated Used fatty acids. The meaning of argan oil continues to be based on the unique argan oil Sterols, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol. Argan oil contains from tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, composed as follows: approx. 40 to 60 mg of α-tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg of β-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg of δ-tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg of γ-tocopherol. The Ratio of unsaturated to saturated Fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1. The amount of sterols in argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil. The content of fatty acids is more than 99 wt .-%, of which more than 80 wt .-% unsaturated are. The fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: Palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated Fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, linoleic acid to 0.1% and gadoleic acid up to 0.5%. The amount of linoleic acid is in argan oil about three times higher than olive oil.
  • Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions used. The North Africans use argan oil for rubbing the skin before visiting a steam bath. It penetrates quickly in the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling. Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging before and also finds use for preventing itching. In the Hair care gets it on brittle and dry hair as well recommended for hair loss.
  • One Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. Amaranth seed oil can easily be used in hair cleansing and -care agents are incorporated. In these compositions incorporated the treated hair remains with more shine as well as improved care properties, in particular improved Combing properties, more shine and an improved grip. Especially was found to be a hair cleanser based on Amaranth seed oil with minimal amounts of solubilizer gets by, while comparable other oils one clearly need higher amount of solubilizers, to a stable incorporation of the oil in the shampoo too guarantee. For example, can be the amaranth seed oil at a certain concentration at solubilizer stable and clear into a shampoo while working numerous other natural oils a phase separation exhibit.
  • The Lipid fraction of amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides. The linoleic acid provides besides oil and palmitic acid the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil In addition, however, myristic acid, stearic acid, Vaccenic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid in the fatty acid spectrum represented. Especially noteworthy is a special high proportion of squalene (6-12%) in amaranth seed oil, that in other conventional vegetable oils only in a great deal low concentrations can be found. In addition, the amaranth seed oil rich in numerous vitamin E derivatives (including α-, β-, γ- and δ-tocopherol and α- and β-tocotrienol) and has a notable proportion of the phytosterols Δ7-avenasterol, Δ7-campesterol, Δ7-sitosterol and Δ7-stigmasterol. An inventively suitable oil is for example under the trade name "Amaranth Seed Oil "from the company Euro Ingredients available.
  • Shea butter is to be described in more detail as another example of natural oils. Shea butter according to the invention is by no means used alone but solely in admixture with at least one further natural oil, so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid is at least 50% by weight.
  • Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, death number 55 to 67, unsaponifiable 2 to 11%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 ° C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin. The essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, α- and β-amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of α- and β-amyrin are as follows:
    Figure 00320001
  • The structure of Lupeol is as follows:
    Figure 00330001
  • These Phytosterols of shea butter are all triterpenes with more than 15 C atoms. Finally, in the shea butter, too a proportion of waxes available.
  • shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in care products used for the skin. However, it is also in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratin fibers.
  • In a most preferred embodiment, the compositions further contain squalene. Squalene is found in large quantities in shark fishes. In smaller quantities it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils. Squalene is also found in the natural lipid coat of keratinous fibers. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and are thus used most preferably according to the invention, can be found in Table 1 on the pages above. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.
    Figure 00330002
    [(all-E) -2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaene, spinacene]
  • In this most preferred drug combination, squalene is used in proportion to the combination of the fatty acids in an amount of 1: 1000. A ratio of 1: 100 is preferred. Especially be Preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio of 1:50, most preferably of 1:20 and most preferably of 1:10 and most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5. The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1-15 wt .-%.
  • A very particularly preferred embodiment contains in addition to the two ingredients a) and b) additionally at least another cationic compound. In this cationic compound it can be a cationic surfactant, a cationic polymer or at least one cationic surfactant and one cationic each Act polymer. Under cationic is in the sense of the invention in this embodiment also an amphoteric polymer to understand. For description and definition of both others cationic surfactants as well as the cationic and / or amphoteric Polymers will be discussed in the following description.
  • In In many cases, the agents contain at least one surfactant Substance, whereby in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. The choice of surfactants depends on the type of remedy. In the case of a shampoo will be in particular at least one surfactant from the group of anionic, the zwitterionic or nonionic surfactant Substances chosen. It is preferred that at least an anionic and at least one zwitterionic surface-active Substance is chosen. These are particularly preferred Surface-active substances from the group of selected especially mild surfactants. In many cases, however, it has proven to be advantageous the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic Select surfactants. The ratio is between anionic and zwitterionic surfactants between 10: 1 and 1: 5. Particularly preferred is the ratio 5: 1 to 1: 2.
  • provides the agent is a hair conditioning composition, then are preferred as surfactants cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. Also Here again is a selection of so-called mild surfactants Substances are particularly preferred.
  • The Surfactants include substantially two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.
  • Under surfactants (T) are surfactants, which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or in volume phases to micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases can aggregate, understood. One distinguishes anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged one hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which are both a negative as well as a compensating positive charge, cationic Surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, are positively charged have hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which no Charges but strong Dipolmomente have and in aqueous Solution are strongly hydrated. At the following mentioned Surfactants are exclusively known compounds. As regards the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews directed.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (tanion) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and Dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
    • - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
    • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
    • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
    • Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
    • - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. For example, if the C 12 -C 18 fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used, the C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates which are preferably suitable according to the invention are obtained. It is known that the sodium salts of C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and for use to bring. In this way, needles, granules, noodles or bars can be produced. One application of the acyl isethionates are toilet soap pieces and syndets,
    • - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C 8 -C 24 ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
    • - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
    • - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
    • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
    • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
    • Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and salts thereof, CH 3 - (CH 2 ) y -CHOH- (CH 2 ) p - (CH-SO 3 M) - (CH 2 ) z - CH 2 -O- (C n H 2n O) x -H, and / or CH 3 - (CH 2 ) y - (CH-SO 3 M) - (CH 2 ) p -CHOH- (CH 2 ) z - CH 2 -O- (C n H 2n O) x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) one Number of 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc and or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,
    • - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether of the formula R 1 - (CHOSO 3 M) -CHR 3 - (OCHR 4 -CH 2 ) n -OR 2 with R 1 , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R 2 for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R 3 is hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R 4 is hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n are a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of in R 1 and R 3 contains C atoms 2 to 44,
    • Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
    • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    • Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR 2 , in the R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 -hydrocarbon radical,
    • - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) n SO 3 M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical,
    • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R 8 OC- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y H] -CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z -SO 3 X, in which R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
    • - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R 1 -CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n CH 2 COOM, with R 1 as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ®.
    • - Acylglutamate of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) COOX, in the RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen , an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,
    • - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® has long been in the trade,
  • preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • In It is the compositions of the invention particularly advantageous when anionic surfactants as mild anionic Surfactants are used. In particular, by the mild described below anionic surfactants will effect the invention Composition particularly mild and gentle especially in view to the needs of stressed and stressed skin Hair.
  • By the term "mild surfactants" the skilled person understands surfactants, which in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the Neutralrottest, the BUS model (bovine udder skin model), the human skin model, the Zei, the Draize test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringkammertest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants.All in common with all test models is that in principle is measured against a standard to which the measurement results are obtained.In each of these test models there is a threshold below which is spoken of "mild surfactants". For example, this threshold is 1.5 in the HET-CAM test. This means that all surfactants which have a relative irritation score of 1.5 and smaller in the HET-CAM test, for example, are referred to as "mild." A person skilled in the art knows that a surfactant gives a different score in each test model. For example, a cocamidopropyl betaine may even be classified as "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more likely to be considered mild surfactants. A common and accepted classification defines surfactants as mild if they have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5 in the HET-CAM test. According to the invention, however, such surfactants are preferably used and understood as "mild surfactants" which are classified as "mild" in all current test models. Particularly preferred mild surfactants are those surfactants which have a relative irritation score of less than 1.2 in the HET-CAM test. Very particular preference is given to using those surfactants which have a relative irritation score in the HET-CAM test of less than 0.8 as mild surfactants. In all cases, the corresponding HET-CAM tests were carried out with a surfactant concentration of 3.0% active substance of the particular surfactant.
  • According to these test methods, the following anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:
    • Acyl lactylate,
    • Hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,
    • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and salts thereof,
    • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
    • Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
    • - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. B. the C 12 -C 18 fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid, the C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates which are preferably suitable according to the invention are obtained,
    • - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C 8 -C 24 ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
    • Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
    • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    • Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR 2 , in the R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 -hydrocarbon radical,
    • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula ROC- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y H] -CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z -SO 3 X, in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates are used in which RCO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
    • - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R 1 -CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n CH 2 COOM, with R 1 as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ®.
    • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a suitable fatty acid derivative, for example a fatty acid halide. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are combined with a Base are neutralized and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® has long been in the trade,
    • Acylglutamates and
    • - Acyl aspartates.
  • If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Fatty alcohol ether sulfates with limited homolog distribution are also referred to as "narrow range fatty alcohol ether sulfates." Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. *** " mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ®.
  • Of course can all mild and anionic mentioned so far and in the following Surfactants can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are each in the form of lithium, magnesium, Zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group in front. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, Monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, Dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium, monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, Triisopropylammonium, monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium, tributylammonium, Monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, Mono-t-butyl-ammonium, di-t-butyl-ammonium, tri-t-butyl-ammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as methyl ethyl ammonium, Dimethyl ethyl ammonium, methyl diethyl ammonium, methyl propyl ammonium, Methyl-ethyl-propyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisopropylammonium, ethyl-dibutyl-ammonium, Ethyldiisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course the teaching of the invention also not the others explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.
  • Further mild anionic surfactants which are very particularly preferably used in the composition according to the invention are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula ( Tnio-2), RO- (G) p (Tnio-2) with the meaning
    RC 6-22 alkyl or C 6-22 alkenyl,
    G glycoside unit, which is derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms,
    p number from 1 to 10.
  • Prefers The mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic Alkyl polyglycosides, the ether carboxylic acids, the acyl isethionates, the protein fatty acid condensates, the taurates, the sulfosuccinates, the fatty acid amide ether sulfates, the NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates (narrow range fatty alcohol ether sulfates), the acylglutamates and the acylasparaginates and their mixtures.
  • According to the invention especially preferred are the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, Acylisethionate and Taurate and mixtures thereof used.
  • All particularly preferred is the use of anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • Maximum preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • If mixtures of at least two different mild anionic surfactants are used as the mild anionic surfactant, the mixing ratio of these surfactants with one another is at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Preference is given to a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5 and most preferably from about 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5.
  • It was inventively found that the use of mild anionic surfactants and in particular of alkyl and / or Alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or -isoethionaten in the inventive compositions leads to a reduction in skin irritation. this leads to especially when used in the invention Means for a significantly significantly improved, smoother surface keratinic fibers and a less swollen skin surface.
  • About that In addition, it has been found according to the invention that Use of mild anionic surfactants, in particular the alkyl and / or Alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates in Means for cleaning and care in the application of these agents the foaming is significantly improved. The foam is drawing especially by a fine-pored, dense, creamy appearance out. The foam is as soft and supple and light described redistributable. At the same time the foam is firm and good tangible. He shows a certain stamina and runs not spontaneously but only after a few minutes. This favors the already described easy spreadability of the foam. These Effects occur in the inventive compositions especially if on combined with cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -OC 1-12 -alkenyl-COOM, -OSO 3 M, -OP (O) (OM) 2 or -O- CH 2 -CH 2 -SO 3 M replaced with M = H, alkali metal, NH 4 or one of the aforementioned counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium.
  • In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -OC 1-12 -alkylene-COOM-O (CH 2 -) n COOM with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferred is the radical O-CH 2 -COONa.
  • Particular preference is given to using an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ® LCG Cognis Germany.
  • In the alkyl glycosides of the general formula (Tnio-2) are derived the glycoside units G preferably from aldoses or ketoses.
  • Preferably become the reducing because of the better responsiveness acting saccharides, the aldoses used. Under the aldoses comes because of its easy accessibility and technical Availability in particular the glucose into consideration. The alkyl glycosides used as starting materials particularly preferably are therefore the alkylglucosides.
  • The Index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, d. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given connection must always be integer and here before For all the values p = 1 to 6, the value p is for a certain alkyl glycoside an analytical calculated calculated Size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl glycosides having a moderate degree of oligomerization p used from 1.1 to 3.0. Particularly preferred are those alkyl glycosides, whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and in particular between 1.1 and 1.4.
  • Of the Alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols with 6 bis 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol as well as technical fractions, in addition to the mentioned saturated Alcohols also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols can and are based on natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, Coconut oil or beef tallow are obtained. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.
  • Next The said fatty alcohols, the alkyl glycosides can also of synthetic primary alcohols with 6 to 22 Derived carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40 wt .-% branched isomers.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and Oils or mineral oils.
  • method for the preparation of these alkyl glycosides have long been the expert known.
  • The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes. The carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it is possible to react with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH 2 -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock. Preferably, the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH 2 -OH group, optionally with an agent capable of reacting one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring.
  • Further For example, hydroxyl groups may also be etherified.
  • The Preparation of isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products for Hair and body care can be used. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described, the Alkyloligoglykosidisethionate and for example other anionic Containing surfactants.
  • The Preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the State of the art. For example, the corresponding alkyl glycoside with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid, followed by neutralization. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical Preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.
  • After all are detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates described, for example, in hair conditioners, hair dyes or hair waving agents can be used.
  • The used according to the invention mild anionic Surfactants and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, Sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are in abundance from 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt .-% used
  • The used mild anionic surfactants and particularly preferred the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, Phosphates and / or isoethionates may be used in these agents completely or partially replace the usual anionic surfactants. Thus, the mildness of the invention anionic surfactants as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions can be used, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants with each other or with other usual anionic surfactants are used. This usual anionic surfactants are closer to later explained. For example, the mild anionic Surfactants and other anionic surfactants in a weight ratio in the range of 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 and most preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5 available.
  • The Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants can be used in the inventive Be included means. This probably leads to one increased deposition of agents on the surface the skin and hair, resulting in the overall cosmetic appearance makes the skin and hair noticeable. The special charge effects amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants appear to play a role to play.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants (tweets) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO 3 (-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood to mean such surface-active compounds those which contain, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyiglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (Tnio) contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example
    • Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
    • Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
    • Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
    • - with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ® LS, LT Dehydol ® types (Cognis),
    • C 12 -C 30 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • - polyol, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® grades (Cognis),
    • - alkoxylated triglycerides,
    • Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (Tnio-1) R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (Tnio-1) in the R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
    • - amine oxides,
    • - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
    • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
    • Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
    • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
    • Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R 4 O- [G] p (Tnio-2) in which R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (Tnio-2) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside with a middle oligomerization grad p used from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C 8 -C 10 (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C 8 -C 18 coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C 12 - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C 9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
    • Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (Tnio-3), R 5 CO-NR 6 - [Z] (Tnio-3) R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (Tnio-4): R 7 CO- (NR 8 ) -CH 2 - [CH (OH)] 4 -CH 2 OH (Tnio-4) Glucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, are preferably used as the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides. Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (Tnio-4) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • The Sugar surfactants can be used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based on the total Means be included. Amounts of 0.5-15 wt .-% are preferred, and very particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.
  • Further typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.
  • When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid as well as the sugar surfactants proved. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.
  • These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-Lau ryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.
  • at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are mixtures understood by homologues who are involved in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, Alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates as catalysts be used. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • As additives for further improving the skin feel during and after the application, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention can therefore be recommended. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1-20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18. Such products can be prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to z. B. fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial esters based on C 12 -C 18 fatty acids or produced on Fettsäurealkanolamide. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and he Computed by the relationship HLB = 1/5 × (100 wt% L), where wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.
  • The cationic surfactants (Tkat) form the last group of surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the invention Complex active in that they are like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants to a significantly improved cosmetic Contribute to the appearance of the skin. The cationic charge ensures for a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces in particular of stressed skin. At the long fat remnants of this In turn, molecular structures can be amplified attach more hydrophobic substances. This will total an increased deposition of care substances on the surface the skin causes. In particular, the skin feeling is called pleasantly soft to velvety soft.
  • Cationic surfactants (Tkat) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 ) + with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (Tkat) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two legs nylreste on. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ® KDMP (Clariant).
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®. The products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats ,
  • The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, they Of course, they can also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions according to the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Lanoquat ® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.
  • Another example of a suitable cationic surfactant, quaternary sugar derivative is the commercially available product Glucquat ® 100 is, according to INCI nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".
  • Finally, cationic surfactants of the present invention are also understood to mean cationic compounds of the following general structure: RCO-XN + R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 A - (Tkat-2) R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 11 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,
    X is -O- or -NR 5 -,
    R 1 represents an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, wherein substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of substitution,
    R 2 , R 3 and R 4 each independently represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 6 C atoms in the chain, which chain may be straight or branched. Examples of radicals according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, hexyl, iso-hexyl, hydroxyalkyl, dihydroxyalkyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl , Hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl,
    R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight-chain or branched, alkyl or alkenyl radical which may also be substituted by a hydroxyl group, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl, hexyl, iso -hexyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, dihydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, dihydroxybutyl, trihydroxybutyl, trihydroxypropyl, dihydroxyethyl and
    A - represents a halide, such as fluoride, chloride or bromide, an alkyl sulfate, such as a methosulfate or ethosulfate, a phosphate, a citrate, tartrate, maleate or fumarate. Within this structural class, preference is given to using the compounds of one of the following structures: CH 3 (CH 2 ) 20 CONH (CH 2 ) 3 - N + (CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 CH 3 A - (Tkat-3) CH 3 (CH 2 ) 20 CONH (CH 2 ) 3 - N + (CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 (CHOH) CH 2 OH A - (Tkat-4) CH 3 (CH 2 ) 20 COOCH 2 CHOHCH 2 - N + (CH 3 ) 3 A - (Tkat-5) CH 3 (CH 2) 20 CONH (CH 2) 3 - N + (CH 3) 2 -CH 2 CH 2 OH A - (Tkat-6)
  • Examples for such commercial products are Schercoquat BAS, Lexquat AMG-BEO, Akypoquat 131 or Incroquat Behenyl HE.
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention also the recognition that mixtures of at least two cationic Surfactants can be used. In this case will be the cationic surfactants preferably from at least two different Structural classes of cationic surfactants selected.
  • The cationic surfactants (Tkat) are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.
  • Of course it is according to the invention in the case of cationic Surfactants prefer to select mild cationic surfactants. The criteria for selecting suitable mild surfactants have already been previously described in detail. To the corresponding mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats, cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat-2) and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the molecule.
  • cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the inventive Compositions are to be used as shower baths.
  • The Surfactants (T) are preferred in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight 0.1-30% by weight and most preferably from 0.5-25 Wt .-%, based on the total used in the invention Medium, used.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
    • - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
    • C 12 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
    • Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
    • C 8 -C 22 -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
    • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68, -
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
    • - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
    • - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
    • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
    • - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
    • - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1-5 wt .-% proved. It is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester. The following formula describes the mixed ester in more detail: R 1 OOC-CH 2 - (CHOH-COOR 1 ) -CH 2 -COO-CH) 2 - [C (CH 2 OH) (COOR 2 ) 2 ]
  • Here, R 1 and R 2 are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohol radicals having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms or radicals of dimerization products of these fatty alcohols. The addition of such mixed esters a particularly pleasant feeling on the skin is achieved in the application of the body cleanser.
  • The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • Prefers can the compositions of the invention at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18 included. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value from 10-15 can according to the invention especially be preferred.
  • According to the invention preferred Emulsifiers are the so-called mild emulsifiers. The mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by different methods. For this purpose, for example the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model used. all Testing method in common is that in principle against a standard is measured to which the results are related. Farther It is noted that in the chapter "surfactants" already was described in detail how selected mild raw materials can be. This also applies to the choice of milder Emulsifiers.
  • According to these test methods, the following preferred emulsifiers have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:
    • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
    • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
    • Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
    • - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group
    • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
    • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    • Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates as already described for the surfactants,
    • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates as already described for the surfactants,
    • Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in the chapter on surfactants,
    • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,
    • - zwitterionic surfactants (tweezers)),
    • - Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho),
    • Sugar surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the formula (Tnio-2),
    • Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type according to the formula (Tnio-3),
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • - polyol, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® - types (Cognis),
    • - amine oxides,
    • - Hydroxymischether, for example of the formula R 1 O [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] x (CH 2 CHR 2 O) y [CH 2 CH (OH) R 3 ] z with R 1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 C atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical, R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 ° C Atoms, x standing for 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y for a number from 1 to 30 and z standing for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
    • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
    • Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
    • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
    • Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),
    • - Esterquats,
    • - Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.
    • C 8 -C 22 -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
    • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68, -
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
    • - Sterols, Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
    • - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
    • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
    • - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • In the inventively preferred case that the Compatibility of the cosmetic compositions improved should be the particularly mild surfactants and emulsifiers preferably used in the compositions. In these cases are the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates in amounts below of 8 wt .-%, preferably less than 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably less than 2.5 wt .-% used. Very particularly preferred are these Compositions free of alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free By "means in this context that these ingredients are not additionally used. It is possible, however, that they contain other ingredients, such as the Use of silicone emulsions, get into the composition. Preferably, "free of" therefore also means less than 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably less than 0.1 wt .-%.
  • It It is known that oil-in-water emulsions, henceforth Called O / W emulsions made with nonionic emulsifiers and stabilized, when heated, a phase inversion suffer, d. h., That at higher temperatures the outer, aqueous phase to can be internal phase. This process is usually reversible, d. h. That when cooling back the original Emulsion type regresses. It is also known that the Position of the phase inversion temperature (PIT) depends on many factors is, for example, the type and phase volume of the oil component, from the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or composition of the emulsifier system. Furthermore, it is known that emulsions, produced at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature be characterized by special stability and fineness while those above the phase inversion temperature are produced, are less finely divided. Emulsions at At a certain temperature phase inversion suffer PIT emulsions called. These PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention because it is due to the just enough amount of emulsifier contain significantly less emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but especially mild and gentle on the skin and the hair. Be in the PIT emulsions and ionic surfactants used as emulsifiers, then these are particularly preferred only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the Cooling process added to the PIT emulsion.
  • In the agents according to the invention become very special cationic and / or amphoteric and / or zwitterionic polymers used as further ingredients. Polymers are used in cosmetic Compositions used for a variety of reasons. Here, nonionic polymers are also considered.
  • in the The following are some examples of particularly preferred polymers described. The distinction of the invention used Polymers may be due to the charges of the polymers and / or due to their application-specific particularly pronounced Properties are made. The expression "particularly pronounced Properties "reflects the fact that polymers in the general combine several properties in one molecule. Often, however, one of the features is very special in the foreground and is just for the selection of this polymer prevail.
  • First Polymers are described by their respective charges.
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group via a C1-4 hydrocarbon group are bound to a built up from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof polymer backbone have been found to be particularly suitable.
  • Further Cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group, at certain pH levels as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • The cationic polymers according to the invention can both firming and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or avivierende polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or be thickening properties. For the suitable cationic Polymers are preferably consolidating and / or um conditioning polymers. Among polymers are both natural as well as synthetic polymers which are cationic or amphoteric can be loaded, to understand.
  • These Both groups of polymers have a potentially cationic charge together. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic Polymers can therefore have their cationic charge density be characterized. The invention Polymers are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density from at least 3 meq / g to 7 meq / g.
  • One another characteristic feature of the invention Polymers is their molecular weight. Below the molecular weight of the respective polymer is the molecular weight understood by the manufacturer in the corresponding Datasheets measured by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer has a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u as being suitable according to the invention proved. Have polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u proved to be particularly suitable. Polymers with one molecular weight more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.
  • The Deposition of polymers from surfactant solutions at the Surface of keratinous fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not complete until today Understood. The selection of suitable polymers shown above takes place in the prior art already after the previously shown Charge density or molecular weight criteria.
  • All contain known adsorption equations of physical chemistry Proportionality constants, which in connection with the degree of occupancy of the surface. Without the exact could know, however, scientific background the occupancy rate of the surface with an adsorption probability related polymers of the invention. Define the adsorption probability as the product from the cationic charge density and molecular weight, this product may be used for the targeted selection of suitable inventive polymers become.
  • suitable Polymers for the product are from the cationic charge density and the molecular weight is greater than 100,000 on. Particularly suitable are polymers which are suitable for this Product have a value of at least 200,000. Most notably suitable are those polymers in which this product a Value greater than 250,000. Most appropriate are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.
  • Prefers are those polymers that have sufficient solubility in water or alcohol to in the inventive Means at the time of going completely into solution.
  • The cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups in either the Polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more the monomers are contained. The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers be. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which contain at least one carry cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as Pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. As alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon Salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower Alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, especially preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacryl amide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. For example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • suitable For example, polymers with quaternary amine groups are in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium described polymers such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary End groups (Quaternium-80).
  • Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Homopolymers of the general formula (P1), - {CH 2 - [CR 1 COO- (CH 2 ) m N + R 2 R 3 R 4 ]} n X - (P1) in which R 1 = -H or -CH 3 ,
    R 2, R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups,
    m = 1, 2, 3 or 4,
    n is a natural number and
    X - is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (monomer-3) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
    • - R 1 is a methyl group
    • - R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
    • - m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X - include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ® CR (3V Sigma) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol (with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and Tridecylpolyoxypropylen polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name : PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (Pmonomer-3) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C 1-4 alkyl esters and methacrylic acid C 1-4 alky lester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • suitable Cationically active silicone compounds preferably have at least either an amino group or at least one ammonium group. suitable Silicone polymers with amino groups are under the INCI name Amodimethicone known. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups can be or terminal. The N-containing silicone as inventive cationic polymer may preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, Siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, Amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers with two terminal quaternaries Ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal Aminoalkyl.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of an aminosiloxane according to the following general formula (P-2),
    Figure 00610001
    wherein R = OH or CH 3 ; X = alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl, and A, B and C = copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks.
  • Amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids are most preferred according to the invention. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning ® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, and glycol; Dow Corning ® 2-8194 Microemulsion (26%) are based on an amine functional silicone polymer; Dow Corning ® 2-8177 Microemulsion (12%) are based on an amine functional silicone polymer; Dow Corning ® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine functional polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.
  • The Molecular weight of the aminosilicone is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.
  • The Amino silicone as inventive cationic Polymer is in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and completely particularly preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (P-3) GOBN + R a R b R c X -
    G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
    B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
    R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
    X - is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.
  • Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, containing the - idealized - monomer unit:
    Figure 00630001
  • in the Contrary to most hydrocolloids, which are biological pH values are negatively charged, put chitosans under these conditions cationic biopolymers. The positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces occur and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products also used as a film former. In addition to the chitosans come too quaternized, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form into consideration. The use can also in the form of aqueous gels having a solids content in the range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.
  • to Chitosans are produced by chitin, preferably the Shell remnants of crustaceans made as inexpensive raw materials be available in large quantities. The chitin is usually first by adding deproteinated by bases, by addition of mineral acids demineralized and finally by adding strong ones Bases are deacetylated, with molecular weights over one broad spectrum can be distributed.
  • In a preferred embodiment of the invention, particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting
    • (a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
    • (b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with aqueous alkali hydroxide solution,
    • (c) again treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
    • (d) finally treating the resulting decalcified third intermediate with concentrated aqueous caustic while deacetylating to a level of from 0.05 to 0.5, and more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25, mole of acetamide per mole of monomer unit, and
    • (e) optionally subjected to a pressure / temperature post-treatment to adjust the viscosity.
  • at the chitosans to be used according to the invention it is completely or partially deacetylated Chitins. The molecular weight of chitosan can via a be widely distributed, for example, from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. Suitable, for example, is a low molecular weight Chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is over 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 up to 99%.
  • The Chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free lawn groups. As a neutralizing agent in principle all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids are used such as formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, Lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, Hydrochloric acid u. a., Of which the Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure is particularly preferred.
  • A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 80%. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
    • - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
    • - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
    • - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ® Guar and Jaguar ®,
    • - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
    • - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
    • - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
    • - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
    • - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
    • - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • Other cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.
  • According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to the DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.
  • Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or Kerstin, from Pflan ze, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropy l Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
  • All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.
  • The cationic polymers are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.
  • amphoteric Polymers, like the cationic polymers, are very particular preferred polymers.
  • Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO - or -SO 3 - groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • Further inventively usable amphoteric polymers are those in the British Patent Application 2,104,091 , of the European Patent Application 47,714 , of the European Patent Application 217 274 , of the European Patent Publication 283,817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 mentioned compounds.
  • Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers:
    • Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 1), R 1 -CH = CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N ( +) R 3 R 4 R 5 A (-) (Mono 1) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and the anion is an organic or inorganic acid,
    • Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),
      Figure 00680001
      wherein R 6 and R 7 are independently a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and A - is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid.
  • If a cationic group of the amphoteric or cationic polymers is derived from the monomer of the formula (Mono1), the radicals R 3 , R 4 and R 5 in the formula (Mono 1) are preferably methyl groups, Z is preferably an NH group and is preferably a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion. It is particularly preferred in this case to use acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride as the monomer (Mono1).
  • In Formula (mono 2), A is preferably a halide ion, especially for chloride or bromide.
  • Preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are polymers whose anionic group is derived from at least one monomer of the formula (Mono3)
    • - Monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Mono3) or their salts with an organic or inorganic acid, R 8 -CH = CR 9 -COOH (mono 3) in which R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • When Monomer (Mono3) is preferred for the invention amphoteric polymers used acrylic acid.
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) with the monomer (Mono3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (Mono2) and (Mono3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
  • About that In addition, the inventive amphoteric Polymers besides a monomer (Mono1) or (Mono2) and a monomer (Mono3) additionally one monomer (Mono4)
  • - monomeric carboxamides of the general formula (mono 4),
    Figure 00690001
    in which R 10 and R 11 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups and R 12 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 - to C 4 ) alkyl group containing.
  • Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
  • Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
    • (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 1), R 1 -CH = CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A (-) (Mono 1) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are each independently alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer of 2 to 5 and the anion of an organic or inorganic acid is and
    • (ii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3), R 8 -CH = CR 9 -COOH (mono 3) in which R 0 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • With regard to the details of the preparation of these particularly preferred polymers is expressly based on the content of German patent application 39 29 973 Referenced. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (i) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.
  • The Generally, amphoteric polymers can be used both directly and as well in salt form, by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, is used according to the invention become.
  • The amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Further inventively usable amphoteric polymers are those in the British Patent Application 2,104,091 , of the European Patent Application 47,714 , of the European Patent Application 217 274 , of the European Patent Publication 283,817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 mentioned compounds.
  • at the anionic polymers are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective as the sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid contain, wherein the sulfonic acid group completely or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.
  • More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially.
  • Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be present in crosslinked form, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentae rythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.
  • Also sold under the name Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • The anionic polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types,
    • A compound (monomer 5 having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and
    • - a di- or polyisocyanate (monomer 6).
  • at the compounds (monomer 5) may be, for example, diols, Triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols. In this case, the compounds having more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually only in small amounts in combination with a large excess Compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms used.
  • Examples for compounds (Monomer5) are ethylene glycol, 1,2- and 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -propylene glycols, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, Propylene oxide and butylene oxide, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane, Hexamethylenediamine and α, ω-diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.
  • polyurethanes, in which the compounds (Monomer5) diols, triols and polyetherols may be preferred according to the invention be. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols with Molar masses between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.
  • polyesterols are usually by modification of the compound (Monomer 5) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, Isophthalic acid and adipic acid.
  • When Compounds (monomer 6) are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylenedi (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate.
  • Farther may be used in the invention Polyurethanes are still building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are especially suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. With regard to the further components there is no fundamental restriction whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks is.
  • In terms of Further information about the construction and production The polyurethane is expressly referred to the articles in the relevant reviews such as Römpps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Enzyklopadie der technischen Chemistry reference.
  • Polyurethanes which can be characterized as follows have proven particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases.
    • - Only aliphatic groups in the molecule
    • - no free isocyanate groups in the molecule
    • - Polyether and polyester polyurethanes
    • - anionic groups in the molecule.
  • It has also proved to be advantageous in some cases, if the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system, but instead is stably dispersed.
  • Farther it has proved to be suitable for the production of the invention Means proved to be advantageous if the polyurethanes are not direct mixed with the other components, but in the form of aqueous dispersions were introduced. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, especially about 35-45% and are also commercially available.
  • An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ® PUR (BASF).
  • The agents according to the invention can be used in one further embodiment nonionogenic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
    • - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
    • - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
    • - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
    • - shellac
    • - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ® (BASF).
    • - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble.
    • Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
    • - Glycosidically substituted silicones.
  • The Nonionic polymers are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.
  • According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, e.g. Example by special polymerization or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying in a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Suitable polymers are z. As polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for. B. under the trademark Polytrap ® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, e.g. Based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are having a particle size of 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos (Atochem SA , Paris) available. Other spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. NIKKOL's polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) or NIKKOL's (Plastic Powder A) copolymers, NIKKOL's styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP), AKZO's polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400), or also Silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powders.
  • The Polymer powders described above are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included. Amounts from 0.1 to 5 Wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • polymers can be independent of their chemical structure and charge even after their function in cosmetic compositions be characterized. The description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions of the invention not necessarily a rating or meaning of this Polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle equivalent for use in the invention See compositions, although some of these polymers may be preferred. Furthermore, some polymers can be found due to the polyfunctionality of polymers in several Descriptions of different effects again. polymers which can cause several desired effects are therefore particularly preferred for use in the invention Compositions.
  • The Choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use the composition of the invention.
  • There Polymers are often multifunctional, their Functions are not always clearly and clearly separated from each other become. In particular, this applies to film-making and festifying Polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers are to be exemplified to be discribed. However, it is explicitly referred to here that in the context of the present invention both film-forming and Firming polymers are essential. Because both properties are not completely independent from each other, are under the term "fixing polymers" always "film-forming Polymers "understood and vice versa.
  • To the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers counts the film formation. Among film-forming polymers are such polymers to understand which while drying a continuous film on the Skin, hair or nails. such Filmbildner can in the most different cosmetic Products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, Hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes be used. Particularly preferred are those polymers which sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be included in the agent according to the invention the application in completely dissolved form. Due to its pronounced property of film formation these polymers are in the agents according to the invention very particularly preferred. The use of at least one of these Polymers is therefore also completely according to the invention particularly preferred. The film-forming polymers can be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • Under Film-forming polymers are further inventively such Polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to transparent on the skin or hair To deposit polymer film. The film-forming polymers can both anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • suitable synthetic, film-forming, setting polymers are homo- or Copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers are: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such. B. vinyl acetate, Vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, Alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, Propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups are.
  • Suitable z. B. homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, fixing polymers are, for. B. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Akypomine ® P 191 from CHEM-Y, Emmerich, or Seeigel ® 305 from Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, Ucon ® Union Carbide sold under the trade names. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for. B. cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso SI ® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copo lymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylate / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / HEMA / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamides Copolymer , Acrylates / Propyl Trimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / TDI / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylates / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates / Diacetones Acrylamides / Hydroxypropyl Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Adipic Acid / CHDM / MA / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylene Glycol / Glycerol Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Fumaric Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolyme r, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Albumen, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer , Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1- 8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Protein, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Benzoguanamine / Formaldehyde / Melamine Crosspolymer, Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Pentaerythritol / Neopentyl Glycol / Palmi Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer, Butoxy Chitosan, Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Butylated Polyoxymethylene Urea, Butylated PVP, Butyl Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Trimethylolethane Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Butylethylpropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyl Methacrylate / DMAPA Acrylates / Vinylacetamide Crosspolymer, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, C5-6 Alkanes / Cycloalkanes / Terpene Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone / Polycyclohexenes Oxide Crosspolymer, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan Succinamide, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Cellulose Acetate, Cellulose Acetate Butyrate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chitosan, Chitosan Adipate, Chitosan Ascorbate, Chitosan Formats, Chitosan Glycolates, Chitosan Lactates, Chitosan PCA, Chitosan Salicylates, Chitosan Succinamides, C5-6 Olefin / C8-10 Naphtha Olefin Copolymer, Collodion, Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Copal, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer , Corn Starch Modified, C6-14 perfluoroalkylethyl acrylate / HEMA copolymer, DEA-styrene / acrylates / DVB C Opolymer, Dibutylhexyl IPDI, Didecyltetradecyl IPDI, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Diethylhexyl IPDI, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Diglycol / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine / IPDI Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Glycol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleyl Alcohol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylates, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethylamine / Ethylenediamine / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Dioctyldecyl IPDI, Dioctyldodecyl IPDI, Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Calcium Acrylates Copolymer, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / Magnesium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Zinc Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract, Fibroin / PEG-40 / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Flexible Collodion, Formaldehyde / Melamine / Tosylamide Copolymer, Galactoarabinan, Glycereth-7 Hydroxystearate / IPDI Copolymer, Glycerin / MA / Rosin Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glycerol / Succinic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylates, Glyceryl Polymethacrylates, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidyl C8-11 Acidate / Glycerol / Phthalic Anhydride Copolymer, Glycol Rosinate, Gutta Percha, Hexylene Glycol / Neopentyl Glycol / Adipic Acid / SMDI / DMPA Copolymer, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer , Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Hexyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Lauryl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Rosin, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Gadidae Protein, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylates / butyl acrylate copolymer, hydroxyethyl / methoxyethyl acrylate copolymer, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose acetate / succinate, hydroxypropyl oxidized starch, hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, hydroxypropyl xanthan gum, isobutylene / ethylmal eimide / hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer, isobutylene / MA copolymer, isobutylene / sodium maleate copolymer, isobutylmethacrylate / bis-hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer, isomerized linoleic acid, isophorone diamines / cyclohexylamine / isophthalic acid / azelaic acid copolymer, isophorone diamines / isophthalic acid / pentaerythritol copolymer, isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, 4,4'-Isopropylidenediphenol / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate / VA Copolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Maltodextrin, Mannan, Melia Azadirachta Conditioned Media / Culture, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methoxypolyoxymethylene Melamine, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Myr ica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Myroxylon Balsamum (Balsam Tolu) Resin, Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Resin, Nitrocellulose, Nylon 12/6/66 Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Octylacrylamides / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Oxymethylene / Melamine Copolymer, Palmitic Acid / Pentaerythritol / Stearic Acid / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylate Copolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Pentaerythritol / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Cyclohexane Dicarboxylate, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phthalic Acid Denatured With Epoxy Resin Alkyd Resin, Phthalic Anhydride / Adipic Acid / Castor Oil / Neopentyl Glycol / PEG-3 / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Glycerin Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydri de / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene / Pentadiene Copolymer, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum, Polianthes Tuberosa Extract, Polyacrylamide, Polyacrylamidomethylpropane Sulfonic Acid, Polyacrylates-1, polyacrylates-2, polyacrylates-5, polyacrylates-6, polyacrylic acid, polyamides-1, polybeta-alanines, polybeta-alanines / glutaric acid crosspolymers, polybutyl acrylates, polybutylenes terephthalates, polychlorotrifluoroethylenes, polydiethylene glycol adipate / IPDI copolymer, polydimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates, polyester-1, polyester-2, polyester-3, polyethylacrylates, polyethylenes, polyethylenes naphthalates, polyethylene terephthalates, polyethylglutamates, polyethylmethacrylates, polyglucuronic acid, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearates / IPDI copolymer, polyisobutenes, polylysines, polymethacrylamides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polymethacrylic acid , Polymethyl acrylates, poly methylglutamate, polymethyl methacrylate, polyoxyisobutylene / methylene urea copolymer, polyoxymethylene melamine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalate, polypentenes, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, poly-p-phenylenes terephthalamides, polyphosphorylcholines glycol acrylates, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium 6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium- 35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-4 8, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-61, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-11, Polysi licone-14, polystyrene, polyurethane-1, polyurethane-2, polyurethane-4, polyurethane-5, polyurethane-6, polyurethane-7, polyurethane-8, polyurethane-10, polyurethane-11, polyurethane-12, polyurethane-13, Polyvinylacetal Diethylaminoacetate, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Caprolactam, Polyvinyl Chloride, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Isobutyl Ether, Polyvinyl Laurate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether, Potassium Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Potassium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Potassium Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-26 / HDI Copolymer, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA Copolymer, PPG -12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-7 / Succinic Acid Copolymer, PPG-26 / TDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, Propylene Glycol Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Pseudotsuga Menziesii (Balsam Oregon Resin, Pullulan, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP, PVP Montmorillonite, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Quaternium-22, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin, Rubber Latex, Serum Albumin, Shellac, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium DVB / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium MA / Diisobutylene Copolymer, Sodium MA / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Diethylaminoethyl Ether, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Stearoyl Epoxy Resin, Stearyl HDI / PEG-50 Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer , Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrax Benzoin Gum, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene / Allyl Benzoate Copolymer, Styrene / DVB Crosspolymer, Styrene / Isoprene Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, styrene / methacrylamide / acrylate copolymer, styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, styrene / VA copolymer, styrene / VP copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate / methyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate Copolymer, TEA Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, TEA Diricinoleates, TEA Diricinoleates / IPDI Copolymer, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Tetradecyloctadecyl Behenates, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristates, Tetradecyloctadecyl Stearates, Titanium Isostearates, Tosylamides / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamides / Formaldehyde Resin, Tricontanyl PVP, Triethylene Glycol Rosinate, Trimethylol Propane, Cyclohexene Dicarboxylate, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl Maleate / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolyme R, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetate, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride / Vinyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethiconyl Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol Ester , VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecenes copolymer, VP / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / VA copolymer, welan gum, yeast beta-glucan, yeast polysaccharides, zein.
  • After all the antistatic effect of polymers is another for cosmetic means essential function. With the help of electric Properties of these polymers are the surfaces of cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and affects keratinic fibers in their electrical potential. For example, in hair care this way is called the "fly-away effect" designated and on the electrostatic repulsion of Hair fiber based effect diminished. But also on the skin surface In this way the skin feeling is influenced. Some of these polymers develop their optimal effect in a certain pH range. In the invention Compositions are those of this group of polymers preferably, which at the same time also at least one of the groups attributable to the fixing and / or film-forming polymers. Of course, the inventive Teach also the knowledge that in the invention Compositions also each at least one antistatic, at least a fixing and at least one film-forming polymer used can be. However, it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers is at least two of the desired Features.
  • Examples of such antistatic polymers are:
    Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylate Copolymer, AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Kerstin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin / Kerstin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium C Hloride, Gelatin / Lysine / Polyacrylamides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Beta-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Whey, Laurendimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed J Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidine Acetate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-2 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride , PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine , PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamines, PEG-2 Lauramines, PEG-5 Oleamines, PEG-15 Oleamines, PEG -30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG -5 Soyamines, PEG-8 Soyamines, PEG-10 Soyamines, PEG-15 Soyamines, PEG-2 Stearamines, PEG-5 Stearamines, PEG-10 Stearamines, PEG-15 Stearamines, PEG-50 Stearamines, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactate, PEG-10 Stearyl Benzonium Chloride, PEG-6 Stearylguanidine, PEG-5 Tallow Amide, PEG-2 Tallow Amine, PEG-7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG- 25 Tallow Amines, PEG-3 Tallow Aminopropyl Amines, PEG-10 Tallow Aminopropyl Amines, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropyl Amines, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfates, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamines, PEG-3 Tallow Propylene Presimonium Dimethosulfates, PG Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8 , Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Poly quaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium-32, polyquaternium-33, polyquaternium-34, polyquaternium 35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54, Polyquaternium-60, Polysilicone-1, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, PPG-2 Cocamine, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-40 Diethylmonium Chloride, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine , PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-18 Methosulfate, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33 , Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-70, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium -73, Quaternium-75, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quaternium-89, Quaternium-90, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Pr otein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate, Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate.
  • Of course also include the emulsion-stabilizing polymers to the according to the invention preferred polymers. this includes are polymers to understand the construction and stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions) substantially support. Surfactants and emulsifiers are a matter of course the essential ingredients, however, bear the stabilizing Polymers by positively influencing the continuous or the disperse phase to reduce the coalescence of emulsified droplets. This positive influence can be on an electrical repulsion, an increase viscosity or filming on the droplet surface based. These properties of the polymers in question can also in the compositions according to the invention be particularly advantageously used to the inventive powdery compositions before and / or during use to dissolve the powder in water.
  • Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose , Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gu m, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12 -14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth -20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamines, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl guar, H ydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Alginate, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose , Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerite, Pectin, PEG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Carnauba , PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG- 9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones, PEG / PPG -23 / 6 dimethicone, PEG / PPG-8/3 laurate, PEG / PPG-10/3 oleyl ether dimethicone, polyacrylic acid, polyethylenes, polyethylenes / isopropyl maleate / MA copolyol, polyglyce ryl-2 diisostearate / IPDI copolymer, polypropylene terephthalate, polysilicone-16, polyvi Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12- 14-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-2 tocophereth-5, PPG-5 Tocophereth-2, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG 20 Tocophereth-50, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Su Lfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium / TEA-Undecylenoyl Alginate, Sodium / TEA-Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Polypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA Alginates, TEA Dextrin Octenylsuccinates, Undecylenoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum , Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
  • polymers can change the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations increase. In aqueous phases based their the viscosity-increasing function on their solubility in water or its hydrophilic nature. They are both surfactant as well as used in emulsion-shaped systems. Also this property of the polymers is in the invention Means before and / or during the application of advantage.
  • The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems:
    Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth- 20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyl Dimethyitaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonia Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate , C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Bulk Polymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp), Magnesium Alginates, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan L ava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-15 Glyceryl Tristearate, PEG-140 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, PEG-100 / IPDI copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG copolymer, PEG-10 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, PEG-15 / lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M , PEG-160M, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, PEG-180 / Octoxynol-40 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-4 Rapeseedamide, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylate-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadiene, Polyether- 1, Polyethylene / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquaternium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum Polyacrylate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, PPG -14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamate, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate, Propylene Glycol Alginate, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer , Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, S Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyl Dimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylate / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginate, TEA -Carbomer, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Trometha Mine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch.
  • A Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of non-aqueous Phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products. These are polymers used, which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids are. They are also used for gelation of cosmetic Agents with high lipid levels used. This also contributes essential to the excellent application of the invention Agent at.
  • The following are some of these polymers listed:
    Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Beeswax, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer , Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18 -38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanoate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer , Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesteryl Stearates, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Corn Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Isobutylene / Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methylstyrene / Vinyl Tolene Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon 611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycols Copolymer, Piperyl ene / butenes / pentenes, polybutenes, polybutylenes terephthalates, polycyclopentadienes, polydipentenes, polyethylenes, polyethyleneterephthalates, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates, polyisobutenes, polyisoprenes, polypentenes, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoromethyl distearamides Polypropylene, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-17, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP / Decene Copolymer, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone copolymer, stearyl methacrylate / perfluorooctylethyl methacrylate copolymer, styrene e / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Carnauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluoropropyl Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer Of course, microparticles may also be filled in the composition of the present invention or unfilled, both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active agent from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation. In this case, it may be particularly advantageous when polymers are incorporated as suspending aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:
    Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonites, Biotites, Calcium Lignosulfonates , Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl Trimethicone Copolymer, Dimethylol Urea / Phenol / Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonates, Disteardimonium Hectorites, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearate, Hectorite, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolym he, isobutylene / MA copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, maltodextrin, methacryloyl ethyl betaine / acrylate copolymer, methoxy PEG-17 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, methoxy PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, myristoyl / PCA chitin, nitrocellulose, PEG -18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEI-7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI-30, PEI 35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite, Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphates, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetates, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoates, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVPNA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, Quaternium-18 Bentonite, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Q Uaternium-90 Bentonite, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Silica Silylates, Sodium Acrylates / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Dimaltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate / Butyl Benzyl phthalate copolymer, tosylamide / epoxy resin, tosylamide / formaldehyde resin, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / VA copolymer.
  • It It is also possible according to the invention that the used preparations several, in particular two different Polymers of the same charge and / or one ionic and one each containing amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • It may also be advantageous in a preferred embodiment be at least one avivating and / or at least one film-making, consolidating polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer formulate. Among polymers are both natural and also synthetic polymers which are anionic, cationic, amphoteric charged or non-ionic. So For example, the polymer (P) according to the invention can be both a setting and / or film-forming polymer as well as a polymer with conditioning or scavenging and / or thickening properties be.
  • The Polymers (P) are used in the invention Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included. Amounts from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • The The following ingredients additionally contribute to the achievement and further increase the inventive Effects at.
  • With particular advantage include the inventive Compositions fatty substances (Fat) as another active ingredient. By This composition will be increased amounts of the active ingredients deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in synergistically increased Effects. This effect is through the further Use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as a deposition aid in the compositions according to the invention clearly increased. There is a change the charge of the surface, which for example by the measurement of the so-called Wilhelmy voltage can be measured.
  • Under Fatty substances (fatac) are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which are both solid Form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion can exist, and natural and synthetic understand cosmetic oil components.
  • As fatty acids (fatal) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • The Use amount is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy. The amount is preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, with very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 Wt .-% can be.
  • As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which correspond to the reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products produced fatty alcohols are produced, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , z. B. Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ®, z. B. Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, z. B. Lorol® ® C8, Lorol® ® C14, C18 Lorol® ®, ® Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ®, z. B. Crodacol CS ®, ® Novol, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.
  • When natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax) can solid paraffins are used according to the invention or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, Ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes like For example, apple wax or citrus wax, micro waxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the company Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • The Use amount is 0.1-50 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.1-15 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • The Total amount of oil and fat components in the invention Average is usually 0.5-75 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 % By weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • One another synergistic active ingredient according to the invention in the inventive compositions with The active substance complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).
  • proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are capable of internal structure significantly restructure the skin and hair. Under structure strengthening, So restructuring in the context of the invention is a reduction the damage caused by various influences to understand the skin. Here, for example, the recovery plays the natural strength an essential role. restructured For example, skin areas and restructured hair stand out by improved strength, less roughness or through an improved grip. Additionally they point an optimized strength and elasticity.
  • proteins and protein hydrolysates have long been known and will widely used in cosmetic products. To this is on the Referenced relevant literature. Of course These are long known protein hydrolysates in outstanding way together with the new invention Protein hydrolysates and derivatives from the wool of Vikunja used become.
  • It has long been known in cosmetic preparations Proteins but also modified proteins for the achievement of caring To use effects. Either water-soluble proteins are used for this purpose or modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, So used water-soluble proteins. Just in the reactions to achieve a sufficient solubility in water is so much degradation in fiber proteins required that the cosmetic efficacy no longer is sufficient.
  • Thereby in particular, an increase in mildness and skin tolerance but also, if desired, a fine creamy foam achieved the application of the compositions of the invention. This in its structure very fine, creamy and as extreme pleasantly feeling foam is present in all compositions achieved in which in particular surface-active substances as further ingredients are included. The effectiveness of the invention Composition is characterized by the simultaneous use of Polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids further increased. In these cases remains after the application of each composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or whose derivative is on the surface of the hair, which leads to an improved effect. The hair is through clearly strengthened and smoothed in its structure. This effect is also clear with objective evidence such as the measurement of combing forces of wet and dry hair, measuring the breaking forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin detectable. A confirmation These results can also be found in the results of the consumer tests again.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). The term protein hydrolysates erfindungsge also understood total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. Of course, the present teaching according to the invention also encompasses that in the case of the amino acids, these may be present in the form of derivatives such as, for example, the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-esters. In the case of the N-acyl derivatives, the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group may be linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters, the alcohols on which the esterification is based are methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols having a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course, the amino acids can be simultaneously derivatized both at the N atom and at the O atom. Of course, the amino acids can also be used in salt form, in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • When Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are named: Alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, Cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, Isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline, Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, Threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, Glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, Proline, hydroxyproline, serine and asparagine. Very particularly preferred Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are used. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.
  • According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, Kerstin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, rice, corn, potatoes or soya are known. To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially.
  • Moringa growths have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their common name "Wunderbaum." They are preferably native to tropical areas.The various parts of this genus of plants have been used since ancient times, especially for medical purposes.From the seeds of the Moringa growths by a gentle extraction with water and This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50,000 daltons Preferred is a protein extract with a molecular weight of 3,000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 daltons The most preferred extract is obtained from the plant Moringa oleifera The extract according to the invention naturally contains water and glycerol due to the extraction The content of extracted protein in the extract is from 0.01 to 20% by weight A content of protein from 0.01 to 10% by weight is preferred. Particularly preferred is an extract with a protein content of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%. Furthermore, the extract contains at least 30% by weight of glycerol. Finally, water is contained in the extract according to the invention.
  • In The cosmetic compositions are the protein extract described above from the seeds of Moringa growth in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20 wt .-% included. Preference is given to amounts of the extract from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), Diahin ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosog ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Further According to the invention, preferred protein hydrolysates are of maritime origin. These include, for example Collagen hydrolysates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
  • beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic Calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be Easily gain from cultivated mussels. The cultivation The shells can be fresh in as well done in seawater. This can affect the ingredients of Impact beads. According to the invention is preferred a pearl extract, which cultured in marine or salt water Shells came. The pearls consist to a large extent from aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Furthermore, in pearls are still Magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds as well Contain phosphates.
  • to Preparation of the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. After that, the powdered beads with the usual Extracted methods. As extractant for the preparation of the pearl extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Underwater are both demineralized water, as well as sea water. Among the alcohols are there lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both alone Extractant as well as in mixture with demineralized water or seawater, preferred. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerine mixtures have proven to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions The pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can largely in a native state or already partially or largely as Protein hydrolysates are present. Preferred is a pearl extract, in which conchiolin and albumin already partially hydrolyzed available. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment It may be advantageous if the pearl extract in addition with at least one or more of these amino acids this Amino acids is enriched. In the most preferred embodiment the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.
  • Farther is found depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending from the choice of the extractant a more or less large Share of minerals and trace elements in the extract again. One preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic Calcium salts and magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of course occurring pearls.
  • Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
  • In the cosmetic compositions is one of those previously described Pearl extracts in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20% by weight contain. Preferably, amounts of the extract are from 0.01 up to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • One Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.
  • silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. Under Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread Fibroin. As a cement substance sericin keeps this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28 % By weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1 % By weight of dyes and mineral constituents.
  • The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt .-% hydroxy amino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37 Wt%), aspartate (Asp, 26 wt%), glycine (Gly, 17 wt%), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr).
  • The water-insoluble fibroin is associated with scleroproteins to count long-chain molecular structure. The main ingredients of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another essential structural feature of the fibroine is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.
  • Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are understood in particular as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ® Silk. The DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.
  • The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The properties of a shampoo containing sericin as a nourishing component are described in the "Medical Cosmetology 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative, for example, in the DE 31 39 438 A1 described as caring and conditioning for the hair.
  • According to the invention, it is possible to use as active ingredients:
    • - native sericin,
    • Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
    • - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt .-%, the aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt .-% and the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt .-%, with the proviso in that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100% by weight,
    • - And their mixtures.
  • According to the invention can be used as active ingredients:
    • Native fibroin converted into a soluble form,
    • Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
    • The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
    • A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as, for example, hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the glycine and / or or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt .-%, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt .-% and the tyrosine and its derivatives are contained in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .-%, with the Given that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight,
    • - And their mixtures.
  • If both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used simultaneously in the compositions according to the invention of the inventive composition, it may be preferred according to the invention that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin in the native or all if solubilized form is used. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof.
  • If a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their Derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention be that the two silk protein hydrolysates in proportion from 10:90 to 70:30, especially 15:85 to 50:50 and especially 20:80 to 40:60 based on their respective levels of active substance used in the preparations according to the invention become.
  • The Derivatives of the hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin include both anionic as well as cationized protein hydrolysates. The invention Protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin as well as those produced therefrom Derivatives may be derived from the corresponding proteins a chemical, especially alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis be won. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preferred are such Protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or their derivatives, their underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, among cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also quaternized amino acids and their mixtures to understand. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or the Amino acids are often quaternary Ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides carried out. Furthermore, the cationic Protein hydrolysates also be further derivatized. As typical Examples of the cationic according to the invention Protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those under the INCI names commercially available products called: cocodimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk. When typical examples of the invention anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those among the INCI names and commercially available Products called: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk. Ultimately are still typical examples of the present invention can be used Derivatives of sericin and fibroin under the INCI names commercially available products called: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Further usable according to the invention, although not necessarily preferred are the commercially available Products with the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk.
  • In the agents used in the invention are the Silk protein hydroxysates and / or their derivatives in amounts of 0.001-10 Wt .-% based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.
  • Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.
  • According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P) use.
  • The Protein hydrolysates (P) are in concentrations in the compositions from 0.001% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05 Wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.
  • A Another preferred group of ingredients of the invention Compositions with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred that the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.
  • The Skin, whereby under skin naturally also the scalp understood, leaves after the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a substantial neater, more vital, stronger impression with clear improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and also in the dry state. Furthermore, this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and of strained hair, leads to a regulation of Fetthaushaltes, so that the thus treated skin and hair slower greases and does not tend to overgrease. additionally This drug shows an anti-inflammatory and the Skin soothing effect. Finally, through this Active ingredients regenerated and repaired the split hair. These agents are able to penetrate the hair and to strengthen and repair the hair from within. This "repair effect" can be objectively measured by means of DSC measurements prove. These effects may also be, for example Subjectively proven in the consumer test.
  • The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
    • - Vitamin B 1 (thiamine)
    • - Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
    • - Vitamin B 3 . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
    • - Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
    • - Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the entire funds used. The use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually becomes essential Fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.
  • vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain vitamins, provitamins and Vita Precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. As cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride or known as the amine fluoride N, N, N'-tris- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N'-octadecyl-1,3-diaminopropandihydrofluorid. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. As the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil IB ®, ICI) or 1,1'-hexamethylene-bis- (4-chlorophenyl) -biguanide ( "chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-acceptable salt, z. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-aminohexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, 1,3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. B. the 6,6'-methylene-bis (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene") and the 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ("Triclosan").
  • Further suitable antimicrobial agents are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such as e.g. B. the bisabolol, the farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol.
  • After all result from the use of plant extracts (L) in the Compositions according to the invention further synergistic Advantages. Therefore, the use of these substances is particularly advantageous.
  • such Combinations cause, among other things, a pleasant scent both the cosmetic composition, as well as the treated therewith Skin as well as the treated hair. It may possibly even on the addition of other perfume oils and fragrances be waived.
  • Farther affect these plant extracts of the invention Also, the moisture balance of the skin and hair favorably. In addition, they show an anti-inflammatory and the skin soothing effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian be used. Show especially good effects in relation to the hair Nettle, hops, birch and burdock root.
  • Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only or to produce the roots of the plant.
  • Regarding the plant extracts usable according to the invention particular attention is drawn to the extracts mentioned in the page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic Medium, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- and detergent e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are.
  • According to the invention especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, Witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, Horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Valerian, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, Ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root are preferred.
  • Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Valerian, Coffee, cocoa, moringa, home toe, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
  • All especially for the composition according to the invention suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe Vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and Melon.
  • According to the invention it is most preferable if so-called plant extracts Ayurvedic plant extracts are used. Under an Ayurvedic Plant extract is any plant extract to understand which was produced according to the principles of Ayurvedic teaching. The Foundations of Ayurveda teaching can be called the "Veda" be removed.
  • To The traditional Ayurvedic plants include flegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). In the sense of the present Invention are cosmetic compositions containing flegle marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus rotundus (Nagar motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala) are preferred. Especially preferred are cosmetic compositions containing flegle marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). Of course The inventive teaching also includes that in the compositions according to the invention mixtures used from at least two of the ayurvedic plant extracts become. It may be preferred if one of the Ayurvedic Plant extracts Bilwa is.
  • Santalum Album (Chandana) is one of the sandalwood plants. Under sandalwood are woods of the family Fabaceae as also understood woods of the family Santalaceae. To the family the Santalaceaen include, for example, Santalum album, the sandalwood tree. This will deliver the white or yellow Sandalwood. The yellow sandalwood becomes essential oils, the sandalwood, which is also found in western homeopathy used in case of urinary tract infections or kidney disease become. In cosmetics, these essential oils are exclusive used as perfume oils or as components of perfume oil compositions. In particular, the products extracted with water vapor are called Perfume oil ingredients used.
  • Regle Marmelos or Bilwa belongs to the family Rutaceae, which are related to the citrus fruits. The tree is in both Ayurvedic and Western homeopathic Teaching known. Bilwa is especially in the case of stomach ailments and diarrhea used. In the compositions according to the invention can Bilwa contribute to the foaming behavior like foaming, Foam volume, creaminess of the foam or the fine pores of the To improve foam. At the same time, the necessary amount be reduced to surfactants and / or emulsifiers. this in turn leads to a better compatibility of the respective cosmetic compositions. In particular, together with mild anionic Surfactants achieve these effects of the Bilwa.
  • Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar motha) is a grassy plant. In medicine of Ayurveda as well as in Greek medicine became Cyperus Rotundus used as anti-inflammatory.
  • Emblica Officinalis (Amalki) is one of the oldest Indian fruits. The fruits are extremely nutritious and contain, among other things, large amounts of vitamin C. As these Fruit five of the six tastes of the human Taste sensations, this fruit is in the Ayurvedic teaching as best fruit and as most useful considered to preserve health and cure diseases. Due to scientific investigations it is known that just this fruit contains unique tannins and flavonoids.
  • Morinda Citrifolia (Ashyuka) has been used to treat almost all diseases used. In particular, however, too high blood pressure, heart problems and Diabetis treated with it.
  • Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) is one of the succulents. In the Ayurvedic Medicine is the plant as anti-inflammatory, against arthritis and allergies used.
  • Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma) is widely used in India. It is used especially in rice dishes. In the teaching of Ayurveda also serves as an aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it should be fever have lowering effects. In food it is used as a spice and used for coloring the foods.
  • Nelumbo Nucifera is a lotus plant. Both in the Indian doctrine of Ayurveda as well as in Chinese medicine is Lotus as a benefactor described for the entire physique. Lotus is at the same time the symbol of prosperity, beauty, wealth and fertility.
  • Cinnamomum Zeylanicum is used as a warming plant. It stimulates blood circulation, especially of the outer limbs such as fingers and feet. It is therefore also used for colds. It increases the bioavailability of other plant extracts. Furthermore, it is used as a spice for food and drinks. In the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, it may be particularly preferable to use Cinnamomum Zeylanikum as an Ayurvedic extract, if at the same time further plant extracts are to be used in the compositions according to the invention. This applies to especially for the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, valerian, coffee , Cocoa, moringa, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. All these last-mentioned extracts have in common that they produce specific effects. These effects are the promotion of the blood circulation of the skin, a skin calming effect, a skin, hair and nail growth promoting action, for example in the case of small skin injuries, an anticatalytic effect and a regulation of sebum production of the skin, only the essential ones To name effects.
  • After all can in the compositions of the invention furthermore advantageously an extract of a sweet grass be used. Sweet grasses are botanical belonging to the family of the Poaceae. The Poaceae include about 9000 known species in about 650 genera. Your dissemination is worldwide. The family of grasses have been very high for humans since ancient times Importance. For example, count among the grasses also the cereals, but also sugar cane or lemongrass. Especially the seeds of the grasses contain chemically high levels of the proteins prolamins and glutamines. Example of especially important representatives are wheat, barley, rye, oats, Spelled, corn, the different types of millet (European millet, crabgrass, Millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, Oat oats, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, Cotton grass, also called cogon grass. As only from these few Examples can be seen, the sweet grasses very diverse from humans to nutrition, as Medicinal plants or used as building material. In cosmetics will for example, the starch obtained from corn, rice or wheat used. But also essential oils, such as citronella oil from Cymbopogon are already used in cosmetics. After all are also made from the fruits of, for example, wheat, obtained protein fractions for the production of protein hydrolysates and their derivatives used. Little is known, however the use of the roots of sweet grasses. In the case of the extracts of the Poaceae according to the invention extracts of the roots of the respective grasses are predominantly used. Of course, however, also extracts all other plant parts are used.
  • The Poaceae family is described in various textbooks. The details of each species vary between 9000 and 12000 species. However, the division into 13 subfamilies is uniform. The subfamilies as well as selected examples are:
    • 1) anomochlooideae,
    • 2) Pharoideae,
    • 3) Puelioideae,
    • 4) Aristidoideae,
    • 5) Danthonioideae,
    • 6) Arundinoideae,
    • 7) Centothecoideae,
    • 8) Chloridoideae, for example buffalo grass, silt grasses, dog tooth grasses or love grasses,
    • 9) panicoideae, for example cymbopogon (lemongrass), sugar cane, zea (corn), paniceae (millet), lamprey grasses, andropogonodeae (also known as imperium cylindrica, grass or cogon grass),
    • 10) Bambusoideae, for example bamboo,
    • 11) Ehrhartoideae, for example Oryzeae (rice) or Zizania (wild rice),
    • 12) Pooideae, for example aveneae (oat grass, oat oats, oats, honey grasses, perennial oats), Poeae (grasses, bluegrasses), Triticeae (couch grass, barley, wheat, rye) and
    • 13) other species, which are not classified in any of the aforementioned subfamilies.
  • In principle, all types are suitable according to the invention for obtaining an extract from the roots. In principle, according to the invention, all root extracts of the Poaceae can also be used. According to the invention, however, the use of root extracts which are particularly rich in alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, in elements of the I and II subgroups of the Periodic Table and in organic and / or inorganic sulfur are preferred. This applies in particular to the extracts of the subfamilies 8) to 12). Preferred extracts are used from one of groups 9) to 12). Particularly preferred is an extract from one of groups 9) and 10). Within the groups 9) and 10), the extract of bamboo and flame grass is very particularly preferred. Most preferred is the extract from the roots of the flame grass, Imperata Cylindrica. Such a raw material, for example, under the trade name Moist 24 ® by the company. Sederma commercially available.
  • Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that these extracts according to the invention themselves in turn form part of a mixture of various other cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical ceutically usable premixes can be. For example, an extract of the invention may be included as a component of drug capsules from which it is released during use. Of course, such active ingredient capsules may also have further independent effects in the agents according to the invention. Such effects may be, for example, an exfoliating effect caused by the capsule as such. However, in general, the capsule shell is destroyed and released the active substance extract according to the invention and can in turn develop its effect. Such raw materials are available, for example from the company Cognis under the trade name Primasponge ® commercially. An inventive representative of these raw materials is for example Primaspong SS Ivory, which contains a bamboo extract according to the invention.
  • When Another particularly preferred plant extract is an extract available from plants of the genus Echinacea. This is to be understood as meaning an extract which, according to the invention, comprises the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and pressed juices the sun hat family (Echinacea, synonym: Brauneria Necker), in particular from Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), as well as from these extracts To understand active substances. Particularly preferred are pressed juices and extracts of coneflower, especially echinacea purpurea (L) Moench, used.
  • Preferably, the pressed juices or extracts of herb (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root of Sonnenhutgewächse be obtained. The pressed juices are preferably obtained by mechanical pressing. Particularly preferred is a pressing according to the patented by the company. Flachsmann method according to EP 0 730 830 B1 , the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference.
  • The Extracts can be made with water, as well as polar or apolar organic solvents and mixtures thereof in the Be prepared expert known manner. Extracts by Extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures, obtained can be, as well as press juice, are preferred.
  • It Both the extracts in both the original Extractants as well as extracts / pressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular Ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures are used. Prefers extracted or pressed material is used as a solid, the solvent (in particular as possible gently) was withdrawn. But it can also be such extracts / pressed juices are used, from which the solvent partially withdrawn was used, so that a thickened extract / press juice is used. Very particular preference is pressed juices from the fresh Echinacea purpurea herb (Echinacea purpurea moench herba). Especially The extracts and / or pressed juices are in solid form used.
  • According to one particularly preferred embodiment is the active ingredient, available from plants of the genus Echinacea from pressed juices and extracts from Echinacea purpurea be won.
  • Further very special extracts, which are extracted from vegetable products are the raw materials known under the INCII name Vitis vinifera. Under this designation are both wine extracts as well as champagne extract. Wine is an extreme complex mixture. To date, not all ingredients enlightened by wine. Finally, "wine" not just "wine." Also white wine, red wine or Rose is still too inaccurate. Strictly speaking, it would have to be in be spoken by each grape variety in each case. As the Examination results of the University of Mainz show exists Wine from up to 800 different chemical substances. From that However, there are only about 400 different substances in their structure known. Furthermore, the composition of the wine, depending on the grape variety, Location, soil on which the vine grows, season, hours of sunshine etc. different.
  • One good sommelier, for example, is capable of the same situation Grape variety and the same expansion of the wine quite two on each other to differentiate the following vintages in terms of taste. Therefore, it is not surprising if a wine extract does not equal to the wine extract is. Rather, it is also crucial here, from which grape variety, from which location, on which soil the relevant extracted plants have grown. There are now more than 16,000 grape varieties known. Nevertheless, wine extracts are according to the INCII declaration exclusively with the name "vitis vinifera" guided.
  • A special and exclusive way of preparing wine is champagne. Champagne is made from the "Pinot Meunier", "Pinot Noir" and "Chardonnay" grape varieties are already being carefully selected to ensure that the nutrients in the soil are as good as possible to the growth of the grapes, and that the nutrients reach the grapes' maturity as best they can This particular way of growing the champagne grapes is continued in the pressing process, in particular the careful treatment of the grapes prevents the color of the peel and the lattice from being found in the must.
  • So especially the champagne among the wine drinks due the special care and the special procedure in the sparkling wine production is, it is not surprising that champagne itself Entrance has found in cosmetic preparations. For example Skin creams in emulsion form described with champagne as Solvents were prepared. The use of champagne as a solvent instead of water, however, is very expensive. In addition, in the usual hot process for the production of skin creams at temperatures of 75 ° C and higher essential ingredients of thermal decomposition subject.
  • Of the extract of champagne used in the present invention not only the excellent known effects of champagne as such, but beyond that in some for the user of cosmetic products significant advantages in connection with the compositions according to the invention. If in cosmetic compositions champagne itself is used so can in these cosmetic compositions too Substances contained by the champagne, which sensitizing or show carcinogenic or toxic properties. Will, however Champagne at room temperature with a circulating glycerol - water mixture extracted, so a champagne extract is obtained, which no Contains ingredients with adverse effects. on the other hand are the ingredients of champagne, which are for the stimulating, anti-inflammatory, allergy-calming, astringent, anti-oxidative and vascular-strengthening Effects are relevant, continue to be included. Continue to stand such champagne extract in a nearly constant quality to disposal. Finally, the champagne extract added to a process step in the preparation of cosmetic compositions be, at which the temperature sensitive ingredients no Decomposition more subject.
  • additionally has the excellent process characteristics of champagne extract Surprisingly, it was further shown that the inventive Champagne extract in cosmetic compositions at a clear improved moisture retention capacity of the treated skin and the hair leads. Connected with it are the skin feeling as well as the hair feeling of dry skin and dry Hair as well as wet skin and wet hair as significant Pleasant, gentler, softer, smoother and smoother of subjects described.
  • Also if a champagne extract is in principle like a wine extract usually obtained from the leaves, the vines or the grapes, and also under the aspect that champagne extract and wine extract bear the same INCII name "vinis vinifera", so are Both extracts are clearly different. This is based on the special way how champagne is grown and cared for also in the special way of the further processing of the Champagne grapes. This is how the champagne grapes are processed great emphasis is placed on the coloring and bitterness the grapes do not get into the juice of the grapes. Therefore contains the champagne extract unlike the wine extract these ingredients not or only to a very minor extent as an impurity. Consequently, the characteristics of a wine extract differ as well and the champagne extract of the invention.
  • When Extraction agent for the preparation of the inventive Champagne extracts may contain water, alcohols and ethoxilates of lower alcohols such as polyglycols and polypropylene glycols with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 mole of ethylene oxide up to 100 mol Ethylene oxide, preferably from 1 mole to 50 mol, more preferably from 1 mole to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, as well as mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, Isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, tertiary butanol, Pentanols, hexanols, heptanols and octanols, and their ethoxylates with ethoxylation levels as previously described, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerin and their ethoxylates with degrees of ethoxylation as indicated above, both as sole extractant and in mixture with Water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 have proved to be particularly suitable proved. For cosmetic purposes, extracts are on the Base of water / glycerol in the ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 also very suitable. Extracts with excellent effects are obtained when pure propylene glycol as extractant is used.
  • Finally, a champagne extract which is most preferred according to the invention is obtained by subjecting the champagne produced by the customary processes to a liquid-liquid extraction. For this purpose, the champagne is extracted at room temperature with a circulating mixture of glycerol and water. Obtained is about 0.1 to 10% champagne extract. The ratio of glycerol to water in the extraction is about 10: 1 to 1: 1. Preferred is a ratio of 10: 1 to 2: 1. An example of a very particularly preferred champagne extract is the commercial product under the name Champagne Extract ® from Botanica.
  • The Champagne extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 0.1-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction Extracting agent or extractant mixture.
  • Of course the teaching according to the invention also includes the knowledge that instead of the Chamapagne extract the respectively isolated ingredients of champagne. The present Invention also includes the teaching that the invention Extracts with the aforementioned individual compounds which may be included in the respective extract, in addition both as a respective single compound and as a mixture of various compounds can be enriched. The use of the champagne extract is preferred according to the invention.
  • Of the Champagne extract according to the invention is in the cosmetic preparations in amounts of 0.001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 10% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% each based on the total composition contain.
  • Another plant extract is the extract of Perikarp from Litchie chinensis. In particular, in the formulation of compositions comprising the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention and oxidatively acting ingredients in the composition according to the invention, it is preferable to use this extract as well. The extracts from the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn used according to the invention. are obtained from the pericarp of the plant by extraction, preferably with organic solvents, water or mixtures thereof. Preferred organic solvents are ketones (eg acetone), ethers, esters, alcohols or halogenated hydrocarbons. Particularly preferred extractants are water and / or alcohols. Among the alcohols are (C 1 to C 6 ) alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • The Extraction is preferred at a temperature of 25 ° C up to 90 ° C performed.
  • The extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. contains flavone derivatives, in particular flavanols, anthocyanins and flavonols. The derivatives are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, wherein the hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton or an oxidation in the 4-position may already be present. Substitution products are understood as meaning those derivatives which carry a hydroxy group or a methoxy group instead of a hydrogen atom. These include, in particular, flavans, flavan-3-ols (catechols, catechol oligomers), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyanides), flavones, flavonols and flavonones, and derivatives thereof. Furthermore, the extract contains condensed tannins, also referred to as procyanidolic oligomers. These are oligomers which are formed in the biosynthesis by condensation of 2 to 8 monomer units of a catechin and / or epicatechin, such as. As procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, oligoprocyanidines, leucoanthocyanidins, leucodelphinins, leucocyanines and anthocyanogens. The extract used according to the invention contains inter alia the proanthocyanidin A2, which is a dimer of the epicatechin having the following structure of the formula (I):
    Figure 01110001
  • A preferred extract of the pericarp of Litchi chinensis Sonn. sold under the trade name Litchiderm ® LS 9704 from Cognis distributed (INCI name (EU): Butylene Glycol, Litchi Chinensis; 0.8 wt .-% of active substance in butylene glycol)..
  • When Extraction agent for the preparation of all previously mentioned plant extracts can, if not with the extracts themselves other extractants or methods are mentioned, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant as well as in admixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts on Base of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • The Plant extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction Extracting agent or extractant mixture.
  • Farther it may be preferred in the inventive Means mixtures of several, especially from at least two or more different plant extracts.
  • In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions. Rock crystal is a modification of silica. Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material. For example, quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda. Sand, which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as exfoliating body. In addition, quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special. The varieties of rock crystal, amethyst, smoky quartz, chrysoprase, citrine, morion or rose quartz are very much in demand as gemstones both as home decoration and as garment jewelery in many cultures. These crystals and minerals are a symbol of beauty, shine and riches. It has often been and is believed that these crystals have healing properties because they are water turned to stone. Other minerals containing amorphous or finely divided silica are the opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. In the following quartz refers exclusively to the mineral, crystallized modifications of the quartz, which satisfy the structural formula SiO 2 and are free of impurities. Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example. Under no circumstances are the term "quartz" understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc. In particular, the term "quartz" understood and can be used according to the invention: quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, Amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. Preference is given to quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.
  • Finely ground quartz and an extract of finely ground quartz is used in cosmetic co Compositions used to give the skin and hair a velvety, soft, comfortable feeling. Furthermore, the gloss of skin and hair is remarkably increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable stress on the skin and hair. Also on the hair subsequent treatments such as cold wave or dyeing processes are not only not adversely affected but there is no impairment.
  • Of the finely ground quartz, the quartz powder, is made according to usual Methods for comminution and grinding of rocks obtained. Quartz powder is particularly useful in particle sizes of 0.5 microns to 500 microns used. Especially preferred are particle sizes from 0.5 to 250 μm, very particular preferred from 10 microns to 200 microns. In a preferred embodiment according to the invention The finely ground quartz is made using protic solvents extracted and the resulting quartz extract is in the cosmetic Used compositions. Also in this embodiment are quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, Rock Crystal, Smoky Quartz, Amethyst, Chrysoprase, Citrine, Morion, Rose Quartz, Opal and its varieties Agate, Chafcedon, Onyx, Carnelian, Heliotrope, jasper or flint as starting materials for production a flour and the subsequent extraction to the "quartz extract" used. Preference is given to using quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, Rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is smoky quartz, Rose quartz and rock crystal used. Most preferred is rock crystal.
  • As extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanols, hexanols or heptanols, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and glycols, in particular glycol, diglycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol , Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water, mineral water or seawater. Extracts based on water and polyhydric alcohols in the ratio 1:50 to 50: 1 have proved to be suitable according to the invention. A ratio of 1:25 to 25: 1 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Most preferred is a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, with a ratio of water to polyhydric alcohol of 3: 1 to 1: 1 being most preferred. The invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water. Under mineral water is to understand water, which comes naturally from mineralized sources. For example, the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Léau de Vichy, etc. As the extraction method, any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used. A quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon. Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm. Particularly preferred is an extract with a content of silicon of at least 50 ppm. Very particular preference is given to an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon. The amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. The quartz extract may optionally be adjusted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract. The quartz extract usually has a pH of 4-11, preferably 6-11, more preferably 7-10 and most preferably 7.5-9.5. Should it be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract, the pH will be adjusted with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and its salts or with organic acids Acids and their salts such as iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid made. The adjustment of the pH of the quartz extract with acids, which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment. An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.
  • One Another optional raw material which is used in cosmetic compositions be used with very good performance properties can, are powdered and ground gemstones. The usage of powdered gemstones or semi-precious stones in cosmetic Compositions for the care and preservation of the natural Functions of keratinic fibers shows no adverse effect on the keratin fiber. Rather, be with a composition according to the present invention additionally containing powdered gemstones or semi-precious stones the natural ones Functions of the skin and keratinic fibers not only get but also improved.
  • The term "gemstone" is to be understood as meaning well-formed crystals of the aluminum oxide, Al 2 O 3, which are colored by traces of other oxides These gemstones frequently have the formula M I 2 O.Al 2 O 3 or M 1 AlO 2 to the gemstones also the colorful, but complex in their composition and structure constructed aluminosilicates having a boron content of at least 0.01 wt .-% boron, advantageously from 0.1 wt .-% boron, particularly preferably 1.0 wt .-% B, most preferably 5.0 wt% boron and most preferably 10 wt% boron based on the total composition of the gemstones These aluminosilicates are called tourmalines Because of their boron content, the tourmalines can also be considered and described as bristles. Another gemstone according to the definition given above is real amethyst, like aminomite, it contains boron as well as tourmaline boron phosphate, and furthermore, silicon dioxide, and real topaz is a fluorine-containing aluminum silicide icat and is also one of the gemstones according to the definition.
  • Semi-precious stones often have the formula M II O.Al 2 O 3 or M II Al 2 O 4 . The latter are also called spinels. Furthermore, for the purposes of this invention, all dyed varieties of Berylles be understood as gemstones. A very special gemstone in the sense of this invention is diamond. Ruby, sapphire, oriental emerald, oriental amethyst, oriental topaz, aquamarine, euclase, chrysoberyl, phenakite, padparadscha, alexandrite, the true emerald, the true amethyst, the real topaz and tourmaline are among the gemstones for the purposes of this invention. For the purposes of the present invention, semi-precious stones or spinels are understood as meaning, for example, the common spinel, zinc spinel, iron spinel and chromium spinel.
  • According to the invention preferred powdered gemstones are the diamond, ruby, sapphire, the real emerald, the real topaz, tourmaline and the real amethyst.
  • According to the invention also includes that the gems and semi-precious stones of course different according to their origin and exact composition May have colorations. According to the invention is also that the gems and semi-precious stones both natural as well as of synthetic origin.
  • All gems according to the invention and semi-precious stones are used as powders in the cosmetic compositions. The particle size of these powders is affected also the cosmetic effects of the compositions. The middle Particle size of the gemstones and semi-precious stones is at least 10 nm and at most 1 mm. particle less than 250 microns are particularly preferred when with the gemstones and semi-precious stones in the invention Drug compositions that restructures keratinic fiber is to be, with a simultaneous achievement of more shine, more volume, higher wet and dry tear strength, a smoother surface combined with better combing of wet and dry hair as well as a repair of hair splitting. Average particle sizes smaller than 100 μm are particularly preferred. An average particle size smaller than 50 μm is most preferable and a mean particle size of less than 30 microns is most preferred.
  • The powder of gemstones and semi-precious stones according to the invention be in the compositions of the invention used in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%. Preference is given to quantities from 0.01 up to 3.0% by weight, with amounts of from 0.1 up to 2.0% by weight. each most preferably based on the total composition are.
  • As a further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH 2 , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH 3 in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.
  • preferred Compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Cosmetic compositions characterized in that they - related on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) included.
  • Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, according to the invention, some representatives are especially prefers. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)
    Figure 01160001
    in which the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH 2 , -SH and the radicals R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 -CH 3 , where the following compounds are preferred:
    • Purine (R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Adenine (R 1 = NH 2 , R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Guanine (R 1 = OH, R 2 = NH 2 , R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Uric acid (R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = OH, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Hypoxanthine (R 1 = OH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • 6-purethiol (R 1 = SH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • 6-thioguanine (R 1 = SH, R 2 = NH 2 , R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Xanthine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Caffeine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = CH 3 )
    • - Theobromine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = H, R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Theophylline (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = CH 3 , R 5 = CH 3 , R 6 = H)
  • ever according to the intended use of the cosmetic products may vary the type and amount of purine derivative. In hair cosmetic In particular, caffeine has proven itself in formulations for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or Lotions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 0.25 wt .-%, further preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the composition) used can be.
  • As a further essential component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one imidazole derivative. According to the invention, the imidazole derivative is an imidazole according to one of the formulas Ect-I or Ect-II and / or a physiologically tolerable salt and / or an isomeric or stereomeric form of these compounds,
    Figure 01170001
    in which
    • R 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a branched or unbranched C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical or a C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl radical,
    • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a grouping -COOR 5 or a grouping -CO (NH) R 5 , wherein R 5 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl radical, an amino acid radical, a dipeptide or a tripeptide radical can
    • - R 3 and R 4 are each independently a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or one of the two radicals is a hydroxy group and
    • - n is an integer from 1 to 3.
  • Suitable physiologically acceptable salts of the general compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are, for example, the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, triethylamine or tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts and those which consist of the reaction of compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) with inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted (for example by one or more hydroxy groups) C 1 -C 4 mono- or dicarboxylic acids, aromatic carboxylic acids and sulfonic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, benzoic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid and p-toluenesulfonic acid. Examples of particularly preferred physiologically acceptable salts are the Na, K, Mg and Ca salts and ammonium salts of the compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II), and the salts which can be obtained by reacting compounds according to of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) with hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, citric acid and benzoic acid.
  • Under isomeric or stereoisomeric forms of the compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are all according to the invention occurring optical isomers, diastereomers, racemates, zwitterions, Cations or mixtures thereof understood.
  • The term amino acid, the stereoisomeric forms, eg. As D and L forms, the following compounds:
    Asparagine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, β-alanine, γ-aminobutyrate, N ε -acetyllysine, N δ -acetylornitin, N γ -acetyldiaminobutyrate, N α -acetyldiaminobutyrate, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, Threonine and tyrosine.
  • L-amino acids are preferred. Amino acid residues are derived from the corresponding amino acids. The following amino acid residues are preferred:
    Gly, Ala, Ser, Thr, Val, β-Ala, γ-aminobutyrate, Asp, Glu, Asn, Aln, N ε -Acetyllysin, N δ -Acetylornithin, N γ -Acetyldiaminobutyrat, N α -Acetyldiaminobutyrat.
  • The Short notation of the amino acids was carried out according to the commonly used Notation. The di- or tripeptide residues are in their chemical Nature after acid amides and disintegrate during hydrolysis in 2 or 3 amino acids. The amino acids in the di- or tripeptide residue are linked together by amide bonds.
  • With regard to the preparation of the di- and tripeptide radicals is expressly to the EP 0 671 161 A1 the company Marbert referenced. Also examples of di- and tripeptide residues are the disclosure of EP 0 671 161 A1 refer to.
  • Examples of C 1 -C 4 -alkyl groups in the compounds according to the invention are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl. Preferred alkyl groups are methyl and ethyl, methyl is a particularly preferred alkyl group. Preferred C 2 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl groups are the groups 2-hydroxyethyl, 3-hydroxypropyl or 4-hydroxybutyl; 2-hydroxyethyl is a particularly preferred hydroxyalkyl group.
  • Preferred compounds of the formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are those in which the radical R 1 is a methyl group.
  • Furthermore, those compounds according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) are favored in which the radical R 2 is the grouping -COOH.
  • Preference is also given to compounds of the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) in which the radicals R 3 and R 4 are each hydrogen or independently of one another hydrogen or a hydroxy group.
  • Further are especially such compounds according to the general Preferred formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II), in which n is for the number 2 is.
  • A very particularly preferred compound according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) is (S) -2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (Ectoin) and the physiologically acceptable salts of these Connection.
  • A furthermore very particularly preferred compound according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II) is (S, S) -5-hydroxy-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid (Hydroxyectoine) and the physiologically acceptable salts this connection.
  • In general, the compounds according to the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II), in particular ectoine, in the hair cleansing and hair treatment compositions in a concentration of 0.00001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00005-5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, be contained.
  • The agents according to the invention may be the compounds of the general formula (Ect-I) or (Ect-II), in particular ectoine, Also contained in the form of natural extracts, made from natural products were obtained, which are the compounds mentioned above. As special on the one hand gram-negative and gram-positive are preferred Bacteria for the extraction of the invention Compounds of formula (Ect-I) and (Ect-II) proved. Farther Extracts of halophilic and extremophilic bacteria are highest preferably suitable. Very particular preference is given to extracts the purple bacteria.
  • The Extracts are according to the usual known in the art Process won. An extraction with water and water - alcohol Mixtures, in particular with ethanol, propanol or butanol as extractant is preferred.
  • Independently of whether extracts are used as previously described inventive agent preferred, the / the said extract (s) in amounts of 0.00001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.00005 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.0001 to 3.0 wt .-% and in particular from 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-%, each based on the total Means, included.
  • One Another preferred active ingredient for additional use in the compositions of the invention is taurine and / or a derivative of taurine.
  • taurine was first introduced in 1827 by chemists Gmelin and Tiedemann from Ochsengalle isolated by boiling with water or acid (thereby splits taurine breaks down from taurocholic acid) and initially Called "gall-asparagine"; the name "Taurine" was not until 1838 of Demaray coined and dates from the Latin name "fel tauri" for bulls or derives from the Greek Word "tauros" for bull.
  • The trivial name "taurine" is doubly occupied in the literature with 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (1.) and (11S) -1-oxoeudesm-4-ene-12,6α-olide (2.):
    Figure 01200001
  • In The present invention with taurine is the formula according to FIG. meant. The following is exclusively about 2-Aminoethanesulfonic acid and its derivatives and some other explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine spoken. The Compound 2 was named for clear demarcation purposes only. Compounds of this type (2.) are used in the present invention not understood as taurine
  • The formula under 1 .: 2-Aminoethansulfonsäure, C 2 H 7 NO 3 S, has a mitlleres molecular weight M r 125.14, crystallized in monoclinic, colorless and odorless prisms having a melting point of 328 ° C and decomposes above 300 ° C. , In water, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid is very soluble (65 g / L), but insoluble in alcohol and diethyl ether. The molecule has two functional groups: an acidic sulfone group (pK a1 1.5) and a basic amino group (pK a2 8.74), and the isolectric point is at pH 5.12.
  • The industrial synthesis starts from the raw materials ethene, ammonia and sodium sulfite and is shown in the following figure:
    Figure 01200002
  • Under The derivatives of taurine are understood to be taurines which bind to the amino group may be substituted. Here can at least one of the hydrogen atoms, two or even all three the possible hydrogen atoms of the taurine's inner salt independently of one another by at least one C1-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group. The C1 to C4-alkyl groups can be saturated, unsaturated, straight-chain or branched. Preferred alkyl substituents are Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, iso-pentyl, neo-pentyl or n-hexyl.
  • preferred Taurine derivatives are N-monomethyltaurine and N, N-dimethyltaurine.
  • When Other taurine derivatives are also understood as taurines, which are known as Metabolites in plant and / or animal and / or marine organisms naturally occur. These include, for example, although not preferred, degradation products of cysteine, in particular the cysteinesulfinic acid.
  • Further Taurine derivatives in the context of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
  • Especially preferred are agents according to the invention, - related on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 2.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 1.0% by weight of taurine and / or of a derivative of the taurine.
  • The agents according to the invention can taurine and / or derivatives of taurine also in the form of natural product extracts which were obtained from natural products, which taurine or contain their derivatives. As particularly preferred have thereby on the one hand animal extracts of the muscle meat, in particular of sheep, swine and cattle, with particular extracts from the muscle meat of cattle are suitable. Very particularly preferred are extracts from seeds of legumes as well as extracts of prickly pear, Opuntia ficus indica. From fish, sponges and algae be further very particularly preferred extracts with a high Share of taurine and / or derivatives of taurine obtained.
  • The Extracts are according to the usual known in the art Process won. In the case of taurine and / or its derivatives is an extraction with water and water - alcohol mixtures, in particular with ethanol, propanol or butanol as extractant prefers.
  • According to the invention preferred Means are therefore characterized in that they are at least an extract of animal muscle tissue, from seeds of legume or the prickly pear, as well as sponges and algae. Particularly preferred is at least one extract of seeds of legumes, Algae, sponges or the prickly pear included.
  • Independently of whether extracts are used as previously described inventive agent preferred, the / the said extract (s) in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the total Means, included.
  • additionally It may be advantageous if in the inventive Compositions Penetration Aids and / or Swelling Agents (M) are included. These excipients make for a better Penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help to swell the keratin fiber. These are for example to include urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, Glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.
  • A particularly preferred group of swelling agents may be hydantoins. Hydantoins show several desirable beneficial effects in cosmetic compositions. One of these effects is their ability to favorably influence the swelling of the skin and hair. Therefore, compositions of the invention preferably contain 0.01 to 5 wt .-% hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Hydantoin derivatives are particularly preferably used according to the invention, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Regardless of whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, amounts of from 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred, from 0.05 to 1.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - in each case based on the entire remedy - most preferred.
  • In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention which are 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0, are preferred. 25% by weight of hydantoin and / or hydantoin derivative (s), preferably 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin)
    Figure 01220001
    contain.
  • A Another group of very special ingredients of the invention Compositions are biochinones. In the invention Means are one or more ubiquinone (s) under suitable biochinones and / or plastoquinone (e).
  • ubiquinones represent the most widely used and thus best studied Biochinones are. Ubiquinones are depending on the number of in the side chain linked isoprene units as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or referred to as number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. she preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most Mammals, including humans, are predominant Q-tenth Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are in the mitochondria where they are the cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle enable.
  • The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
    Figure 01230001
    with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.
  • Particularly according to the invention Preferably, the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.
  • Plastoquinones have the general structural formula
    Figure 01230002
    on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of the isoprene radicals and are designated accordingly, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.
  • The or the biochinone (s) is (are) in the inventive compositions - based on their weight In an amount of 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in an amount of 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.5%.
  • A another particularly preferred group of ingredients in the inventive cosmetic compositions are betaines. Under betaines are here not to understand Betaine with surface active Properties, as discussed in the chapter on surfactants or emulsifiers have been described.
  • For the purposes of the present invention, a betaine means compounds which simultaneously contain both a grouping -NR 3 ( +) and a grouping -CR 2 COO (-) , analogously constructed sulfobetaines and compounds which have a grouping -NR 3 + and a grouping -CH 2 OH. In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (Bet-I). R 1 R 2 R 3 N + - (CR 4 R 5 ) x - (CR 6 R 7 ) y - (CR 8 R 9 ) z -Y - (Bet-I)
  • R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 here independently of one another represent:
    • • hydrogen,
    • • a methyl radical,
    • • a C2-C8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , R 8 and R 9 are here independently of one another:
    • • hydrogen,
    • • OR 10 ,
    • • -OCOR 11 ,
    • A methyl radical which can carry a 1H-imidazolyl-4-substituent,
    • • a C 2 -C 8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, wherein R 10 is hydrogen, -CH 3 or a C2-C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon group and R 11 is -CH 3 or a C2-C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical,
    x, y and z are independently an integer from 0 to 12 with the proviso that at least one of the parameters x, y or z is other than 0 and Y - is COO - , SO 3 - or a hydroxy group in combination with a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • Under Betains within the meaning of the invention are also to be understood as meaning such substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups only at the dissolved Substance as well as within certain pH ranges of the solution available.
  • According to the invention of course, all physiologically compatible Salts of the betaines according to the invention, in particular also the mixed salts of betaines are used. Among mixed salts are solid solutions of various substances to understand. To the generally accepted definition of mixed crystals as solid Solutions to the textbooks on inorganic Chemistry or crystallography. Furthermore, the different types of mixed crystal formation, such as Isomorphism, homeomorphism, heteromorphism, statistical mixed crystal formation also called double salt formation, mixed crystals with or without miscibility gap etc., according to the previously mentioned textbooks defined according to the invention among the mixed crystals the active compounds of the formula (Bet-I) according to the invention Understood.
  • Among the mixed salts of the betaines, on the one hand, the inorganic mixed salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydroiodides, sulfates, sulfites, hydrogen sulfates, hydrogen sulfites, carbonates and bicarbonates, mono-, di-, triphosphates or mixtures of phosphates and mixtures of these mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used , On the other hand, the mixed salts of the betaines according to the invention can be used with organic carboxylic acids. Suitable examples of such acids are, for example, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, 4-hydroxybenzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, salicylic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4.4 '-Dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid.
  • It may furthermore be preferred, in particular organic polyfunctional Use carboxylic acids, in addition to at least one carboxy group additionally at least one hydroxy group and / or at least have an amino group. Examples of these organic Carboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, Tartaric acid or citric acid etc, which the edible acids attributable to. Furthermore, they include amino acids such as histidine, arginine, lysine, citrulline, etc. to the polyfunctional organic acids, which are mixed salts with the active compounds according to the invention (Bet-I) can be used. According to the invention it is preferred to include the mixed salts in solid form in the formulations incorporate. It is of course also possible to use the mixed salts in the form of their individual components.
  • The Mixing ratio of the invention Mixed salts can be based on the respective molecular weights of the individual Components (Betaine of the formula (Bet-I) / mixed salt-forming substance) between 1:50 and 50: 1, preferably between 10: 1 and 1:10 and most preferably between 3: 1 and 1: 3.
  • When Examples of inventive particularly suitable betaines of the formula (A-I) are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, Carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl-L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-palmitoyl-L-carnitine hydrochloride, Taurine, taurine lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, N α -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), Ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-N, N, N-trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), Choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound referred to in the literature as betaine N, N, N-trimethylglycine. These mixed salts may be preferred according to the invention be.
  • Prefers are carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives used. The inventive Compositions both a compound according to formula (Bet-I) as well as several, in particular two, compounds of the formula (Bet-I) included.
  • The agents according to the invention contain the betaines in amounts of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. A content of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% is preferred.
  • It According to the invention, all types of Isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, cis-trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates are used.
  • In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate or taurine are used. there can the compositions of the invention both a compound according to formula (Bet-I) as also several, in particular two, compounds of the formula (Bet-I) contain.
  • Farther can the cosmetic invention Compositions to achieve certain effects, such as an anti-dandruff effect, or effects against acne, pharmacologically contain active substances.
  • Examples for pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, Phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating Substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.
  • These Substances are purchased in amounts of from 0.01 up to 10% by weight in each case included on the entire composition.
  • After all show experimental findings that the invention Compositions are particularly well suited to perfume oils or fragrances on the skin and hair in an increased amount deposit. At the same time the perfume oils remain and fragrances significantly longer on the skin or hair be liable. This leads to increased acceptance such compositions in the consumer.
  • A Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of Compositions according to the invention are perfumes. The outstanding and completely surprising positive Results of compositions containing the inventive Active ingredients and perfumes have been previously described in detail.
  • With The term perfume are perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances meant. As perfume oils are called Mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • natural Fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, Roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, Caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelics, celery, cardamom, costus, Iris, Calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, Rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, Sage, thyme, chamomile), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, Pines), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax).
  • Farther come from animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum.
  • typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds the type of ester are z. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, Allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, Floramat, Melusat, Jasmecyclat and Benzylsalicylat. To the Ethern For example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane include the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, Citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionone and Methylcedrylketon, too the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, Linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms like limes and pinas.
  • Prefers However, mixtures of different fragrances are used, the together create an appealing scent. Also essential oils lower volatility, which is mostly used as aroma components are suitable as perfume oils, z. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, Juniper Berry Oil, Vetiver Oil, Oliban Oil, Galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange blossom oil, Orange peel oil, sandalwood oil, neroliol allylamylglycolate, cyclovertal, Lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-Damascone, Geranium oil Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate used alone or in mixtures.
  • Further examples of fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3rd. Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997 ,
  • Around To be perceptible, a perfume must be volatile being, besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure the molecular weight of the chemical compound also plays an important role plays. So most perfumes have molecular weights up to about 200 Dalton, while molar masses of 300 Daltons and above tend to be constitute an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of one of several changes Fragrances of composite perfume or fragrance during evaporation, taking the odor impressions in "top note", "heart or middle note" (middle note or body) and "base note" (end note or dry out). Because the smell perception to a large Part also based on the odor intensity, there is the Top note of a perfume or fragrance not only from volatile Compounds, while the base note to the largest Part of less volatile, d. H. adherent fragrances consists.
  • Adhesive-resistant fragrances which are advantageously usable in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, Arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, gingergrass oil , Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaiba balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, cumin oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil , Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja l, thyme oil, verbena, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil, Lem oil, lemon oil and cypress oil.
  • But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances natural or of synthetic origin may be within the scope of the present invention Invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, So fragrances are used. These connections include the following compounds as well as mixtures of these: Ambrettolide, amyl cinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, Anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, Ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, Benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, bornyl acetate, Bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, Eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, Heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, Hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, Indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, cu-marine, p-methoxyacetophenone, Methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methyl acetophenone, Methylchavikol, p-methylquinoline, methylnaphthylketone, methyln-nonylacetaldehyde, Methyl n-nonyl ketone, Muskon, naphthol ethyl ether, naphthol methyl ether, Nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, Pentadecanolide, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, Phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, Salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, Salicylic acid cyclohexyl ester, santalol, skatole, terpineol, Thymen, thymol, -undelactone, vanilin, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, Zimatalkohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, Zimtsäurebenzylester.
  • To the more volatile odoriferous substances, which are part of the present invention can be used advantageously include especially the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin used alone or in mixtures can be. Examples of more volatile Fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, Limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, Phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.
  • All The above-mentioned fragrances are alone or in a mixture according to present invention can be used with the advantages already mentioned.
  • Lie the boiling points of the individual fragrances substantially below 300 ° C, so is a preferred embodiment the invention, wherein preferably at least 50% of the contained Fragrances have a boiling point below 300 ° C, advantageously at least 60%, in a further advantageous manner at least 70%, more preferably at least 80%, in excess advantageously at least 90%, in particular even 100%.
  • boiling Below 300 ° C are therefore advantageous because the relevant Fragrance at higher boiling points too low volatility would have. But to at least partially "flow out" of the particle being able to develop and fragrance is a certain volatility the fragrances of advantage.
  • It was observed earlier that some, unstable Perfume ingredients sometimes with carrier material are not well compatible and after incorporation in the carrier at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier a porous mineral carrier, such as Clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated Zeolite. Unstable perfumes in the sense of this invention can thereby be identified as having a perfume composition, comprising at least 6 fragrances in activated / dehydrated Zeolite X incorporated and the resulting sample for Stored at room temperature for 24 hours. Then the perfumes extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography for stability to determine. A fragrance is then considered unstable in the sense of this Invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95% by weight of this perfume decomposes into degradation products and can not be recovered during the extraction.
  • are in the agent according to the invention less than 15 Wt .-%, preferably less than 8 wt .-%, advantageously less as 6 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, of unstable Perfume contains, based on the total perfume, which is ad / absorbed in / on the particle, so is a preferred Embodiment of the invention, wherein the unstable Perfume, in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.
  • When the perfume adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4, advantageously at least 5, more preferably at least 6, even more advantageously at least 7, in more preferably contains at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • If the logP value of the perfume components which are in / on the Particles ad / absorbed, substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, in a further advantageous manner at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, especially 90% of the perfume components of this meet log requirement, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • Of the logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of Perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the Partition coefficients between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the relationship between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with a higher distribution coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The conditions mentioned for The logP are advantageous because it ensures It will make the perfumes better in the pores of the carrier material can be restrained and also better on objects that are treated with the particles (for example indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation which contains the particles according to the invention) knock down. The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; for example contains the Pomona 92 database, available from the company Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS), Irvine, California many such values along with references to the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated, for example with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS. Calculated logP values are usually referred to as ClogP values. Within the scope of this invention, the term logP values also applies includes the Clog P values. Preferably, then Clog-P values used for hydrophobicity estimation, if no experimental logP values for certain perfume ingredients available.
  • If If desired, the perfume can also be made with a perfume fixative be combined. It is believed that perfume fixative the evaporation of the higher volatile fractions of Slow down perfumes.
  • According to one another preferred embodiment, the perfume comprises which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material from / Perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, Musk (derivatives) as well as mixtures of these, the fixative amount preferably 1 to 55% by weight, advantageously 2 to 50% by weight, even more advantageously 10 to 45% by weight, in particular 20 to 40% by weight the total amount of perfume is.
  • According to the invention it is especially in compositions with a higher proportion of perfume oils, being below a higher Proportion of perfume oil amounts of more than 0.1% by weight it is understood that it is necessary to have polyethylene glycols in the compositions in addition to use. The task and function of polyethylene glycols (PEG) consists on the one hand in the solubilization of larger Amounts of perfume oils and on the other hand in one more advantageous adjustment of the viscosity of the compositions.
  • The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula (PEG): H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) n -OH (PEG), in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.
  • To particularly preferred polyethylene glycols those with molecular weights between 400 and 2000. In particular, polyethylene glycols can also be used which are inherently room temperature and pressure of 1 in liquid state; here is above all of polyethylene glycol of a molecular weight from 200, 400 and 600 the speech.
  • The Perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total composition, of Total composition added.
  • The Perfumes can be in liquid form, undiluted or diluted with a solvent for Perfumes can be added to the compositions. Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate etc.
  • Of Further, the perfumes for the invention Compositions be adsorbed to a carrier, which is responsible for both a fine distribution of fragrances in the Product as well as for a controlled release at the application ensures. Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulphate, silica gels, zeolites, Plasters, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete etc. or organic materials like woods and cellulose-based substances.
  • The Perfume oils for the invention Compositions may also be microencapsulated, spray dried, as inclusion complexes or as extrusion products and in this form the compositions to be perfumed to be added.
  • Possibly can the properties of such modified perfume oils by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with regard to be further optimized to a more targeted fragrance release, including preferably waxy plastics such. B. polyvinyl alcohol be used.
  • Of the Consumers may like to perceive the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by an aesthetically appealing Packaging, optionally in combination with aromatic notes, the composition of the invention with a Enjoyment such. Sweets or drinks get in touch. Through this association, in particular in children, an oral intake or a swallowing of the cosmetic composition in principle can not be excluded. In a preferred embodiment therefore contain the inventive A bitter substance to swallow or to prevent accidental ingestion. In this case, according to the invention are bitter substances preferably soluble in water at 20 ° C to at least 5 g / l are.
  • Regarding an undesirable interaction with optionally in fragrance components contained in the cosmetic compositions, in particular a change in the consumer's perception Fragrance note, the ionogenic bitter substances are nonionic proved superior. Ionogenic bitter substances, preferred consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s), are therefore for the invention Preparations preferred.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. Such a compound is the commercially z. B. under the trade name Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® available Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • Of the Bitter is in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the molding, contain. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • Advantageous For the purposes of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) may be used as an ingredient in the present invention. Among short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the For the purposes of the invention, carboxylic acids are understood which saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic may be and have a molecular weight less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids with a chain length of 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain be particularly preferred are those with a chain length from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • A Use of short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment the pH of the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions. The composition of the invention leads in conjunction with a short-chain carboxylic acid to an improved skin smoothness and to an improved Skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.
  • In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids of the invention listed above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present An message also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are to be understood. In addition, however, neutralized acids can also be used with alkaline amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred salts. Furthermore, for reasons of formulation it may be preferable to select the carboxylic acid as active ingredient from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.
  • To the most preferred according to the invention Short chain carboxylic acids include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and Polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxy-di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.
  • Examples are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids Glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, Malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Of course, the inventive Doctrine also that these acids in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids. This may be preferred according to the invention be. Examples of amino acids which are mixed salts can be used with these hydroxycarboxylic acids, are carnitine, taurine, histidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine. One typical representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is for example carnitine tartrate.
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.
  • According to the invention It is also possible a mixture of several active ingredients to use this group.
  • The short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred in Meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, especially di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be used, in whole or in part, as ester, acid anhydride, lactone, Amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, Hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonated or phosphate ester. The invention Of course, carboxylic acids can be used substituted along the carbon chain or ring skeleton be. To the substituents of the invention Carboxylic acids are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, C2-C8 alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl-, Cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in ☐ position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, wherein the amino function optionally by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted. Furthermore, they are also preferred Carboxylic acid derivatives, the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4,4'-dicyano-6, 6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a Dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds d he general formula (NI),
    Figure 01350001
    in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • dicarboxylic acids of formula (N-I) are known in the literature.
  • The Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be, for example by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization are prepared. Usually one becomes of a polyunsaturated fatty acid go out as dicarboxylic acid component. Preferably, the accessible from natural fats and oils Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component in particular acrylic acid, but also z. For example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Usually arise in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, in which a Component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can according to the invention as well as the pure compounds are used.
  • Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to the formula (N-I) are also those dicarboxylic acids that are different from the Compounds according to formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 Differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from these compounds formally by addition of a molecule Water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • Next the invention exemplified above short-chain carboxylic acids themselves can also their physiologically acceptable salts used according to the invention become. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, Zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present Registration also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. Especially preferred may be in the frame However, the invention with alkaline amino acids, such as For example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized Acids are used. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.
  • Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy-di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. As the alcohol component of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for. As fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trademark Cosmacol ® from EniChem Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • Completely according to the invention it is particularly preferred as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention, the so-called pleasure acids use.
  • These Active ingredients of the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and most preferably in Amounts of 0.1 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • A especially diverse and interesting cosmetic Active substance group are polyhydroxy compounds. The inventive Use of polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other inventive Components may therefore be particularly preferred. Under polyhydroxy compounds to understand organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:
    • Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,
    • Ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols,
    • Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts,
    • - In particular, monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or Acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters, may be present,
    • - Aminodeoxyzucker, deoxysugar, thio sugar, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and further in the form of methyl ethers and as phosphate esters,
  • All Particularly preferred among these are monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or Lactose as well as protected by usual and in the literature known -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups as well furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters can.
  • Farther are preferably oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, wherein these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses as well protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate group, the trimethylsilyl group or acyl groups and furthermore in the form the methyl ether and as a phosphate ester may be present.
  • exemplary for the polyols according to the invention mentions sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, Threit, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcite, erythrose, threose, Arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, Allose, Altrose, Gulose, Idose, Talose, Fructose, Sorbose, Psicose, Tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, Thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, Melibiose, Gestiobiose, Rutinose, Raffinose and Cellotiose. Farther reference is made to the relevant literature.
  • preferred Polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythride, Erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, Mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, Sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose. Especially preferred are glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, Glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose used. However, very particular preference is the use of glucose, Galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or cellobiose
  • In a particularly preferred embodiment is as an active ingredient at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups contain. Among these compounds are those having 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups prefers.
  • Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH 2 (OH) CH 2 OH) and other 1,2-diols such as H- (CH 2 ) n -CH (OH) CH 2 OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH 2 ) n - CH (OH) CH 2 CH 2 OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.
  • Important Representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.
  • Under the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, the glycerol has a outstanding importance.
  • In summary compositions according to the invention are preferred, in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.
  • Independently the type of polyhydroxy compound used with at least 2 OH groups are preferred agents according to the invention, which, based on the weight of the agent, 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% polyhydroxy compound (s) included.
  • With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) H (CH 2 ) k (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.
  • It it has been found that mixtures "short-chain" Polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long-chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers Have advantages. "Short or long chain" refers in this context, the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol. Particularly preferred are mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more. Preferred are Mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentathylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, of tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, of octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol or tetradecapropyolene glycol, wherein in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.
  • Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that it comprises at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IVa) of the formula (IV), in which n stands for the numbers 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IVb) of Formula (IV), where n is the number 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5: 1 to 1: 1.
  • All Particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols with 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular skeleton. These Polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or be unsaturated. The hydroxy groups are very special preferably terminal adjacent or terminal separated by the rest of the chain. As examples of These polyols may be mentioned: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to one Molecular weight up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, Glycerol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, Pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanediol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, Octanediols, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, Octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, 1,12-Dodecanediol with 10 mol EO, dodecadienols.
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, Anomeric and chiral isomers.
  • According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds use.
  • The Polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% up to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1% by weight up to 10% by weight contain.
  • Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Especially preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:
    • Aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
    • - Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
    • Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
    • 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2 -Hexadekandiol,
    • Formaldehyde releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea
    • - Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol , Methyldibromoglutaronitrile,
    • Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and bristles, bisulfites,
    • Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,
    • - Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid
    • Active agents with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,
    • Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,
    • Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and salts thereof,
    • - As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.
  • In Another particularly preferred type of the invention Compositions may also affect the water activity in the Reduced so far compositions according to the invention be that a growth of microorganisms no longer take place can. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.
  • The inventive compositions contribute help to preserve that in an excellent way possible with the mild preservative additives is. But also the complete absence of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.
  • The Amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0-2% by weight, more preferably from 0-1% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt .-% based on the Total amount of the composition.
  • Further optional ingredients of the invention Compositions are Deodorants. Deodorants can not just used in deodorants to increase underarm sweating prevent. They can also be used in skin care products be used to affect the sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.
  • The Increase compositions according to the invention clearly demonstrably the deposition of deodorant acting substances on the skin and hair. This is done in the panel test among other things also by a clearly extended lasting Effect noticeable.
  • As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl, triisopropyl, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® ® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. Particularly effective are also 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol has proven that is marketed under the brand name Irgasan ® by Ciba-Geigy, Basle / CH.
  • It may be preferred according to the invention, the agent according to the invention in the context of a Farbverän hair, to use. In particular, the oxidative color change is preferred because the care effect of the compositions of the invention is excellent even in the presence of an oxidizing agent. Preferred agents according to the invention therefore contain at least one oxidizing agent.
  • The Oxidizing agents in the context of the invention are of atmospheric oxygen different and have such an oxidation potential that it allows disulfide bridges within or between to make the proteins of the hair keratin, the natural one Color pigment melanin oxidatively lighten and / or an oxidation dye precursor to be oxidized by the developer type.
  • The oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and / or at least one addition product thereof, in particular inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone · n H 2 O 2 (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and Melamine peroxide in question.
  • According to the invention the oxidative cosmetic agent also together with a catalyst be applied to the hair, the oxidation of the substrate, such as oxidation dye precursors or melanin, activated. Such catalysts are z. As metal ions, iodides, Quinones or certain enzymes.
  • Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn + 2 +, Cu 2 +, Fe 2 +, Fe 3 +, Mn 2+, Mn 4+, Li +, Mg 2 +, Ca 2 + and Al. 3 Particularly suitable are Zn 2 + , Cu 2+ and Mn 2 + . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of a color can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.
  • Suitable enzymes are z. As peroxidases, which can significantly increase the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention, which generate with the aid of atmospheric oxygen in situ small amounts of hydrogen peroxide and biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors in this way. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, for. B.
    • - pyranose oxidase and z. D-glucose or galactose,
    • Glucose oxidase and D-glucose,
    • - glycerol oxidase and glycerin,
    • Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts,
    • Alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH),
    • Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts,
    • Tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine,
    • Uricase and uric acid or their salts,
    • - choline oxidase and choline,
    • - amino acid oxidase and amino acids.
  • The Oxidizing agent is preferably in an amount of 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready-to-use agent, in the oxidative cosmetic agent contain.
  • To the The purpose of the color change includes the cosmetic means additionally preferably at least one color-changing Component. It is u. a. the authenticity of the obtained coloring improved against environmental influences.
  • The color-changing component is again preferably selected
    • (A) of at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component
    • and or
    • (b) from oxo dye precursors
    • and or
    • (c) from at least one direct dye
    • and or
    • (D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes
    • and or
    • (e) at least one bleach booster.
  • When Developer components usually become primary aromatic amines with another, in para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, Diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)
    Figure 01440001
    in which
    • G 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) - Alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, 4'-aminophenyl or (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl;
    • G 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) - Alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl or (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group;
    • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radical, a mesylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radical or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -Carbamoylaminoalkoxyrest;
    • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical or
    • When G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging α, ω-alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.
  • Especially Preferred p-phenylenediamines of formula (E1) are selected one or more compounds of the group that is formed p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -amino 2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-Diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable Salt.
  • Completely according to the invention Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • It may be further preferred according to the invention as a developer component to use compounds that at least contain two aromatic nuclei containing amino and / or hydroxyl groups are substituted.
  • Among the dinuclear developing agents used in the dyeing compositions according to the In particular, the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts can be mentioned:
    Figure 01450001
    in which:
    • - Z 1 and Z 2 independently of one another are a hydroxyl or NH 2 radical which is optionally substituted by a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, by a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y is substituted or which is optionally part of a bridging ring system,
    • - The bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or (C 1 to C 3 ) alkoxy, or a direct bond,
    • G 5 and G 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, - (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a direct compound for bridging Y,
    • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 10 , G 11 and G 12 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical,
    with the proviso that the compounds of the formula (E2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule.
  • The used in formula (E2) substituents are analogous to the invention defined to the above statements.
  • preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are especially selected from at least one of the following: N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-N, N-bis (4'-amino-3-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, N, N-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • All particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)
    Figure 01470001
    in which:
    • G 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -mono hydroxyalkyl, a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, a (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl, a hydroxy (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkylamino radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl- (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl] amino) - (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl, and
    • G 14 is a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radical,
    • G 15 is hydrogen, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and
    • - G 16 is hydrogen or a halogen atom.
  • The used in formula (E3) substituents are analogous to the invention defined to the above statements.
  • preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol and its physiological compatible salts.
  • All particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.
  • Further For example, the developer component can be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • Farther For example, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic Developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, Pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiological compatible salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E4) or their physiologically tolerated salts,
    Figure 01480001
    wherein
    • G 17 , G 18 and G 19 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy group or an amino group and
    • G 20 is a hydroxy group or a group -NG 21 G 22 in which G 21 and G 22 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl group,
    with the proviso that a maximum of two of the groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 is a hydroxy group and at most two of the radicals G 17 , G 18 and G 19 are a hydrogen atom. In this case, it is again preferred if, according to formula (E4), at least two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 represent a group -NG 21 G 22 and at most two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 represent a hydroxy group.
  • Especially preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E5),
    Figure 01480002
    wherein
    • G 23 , G 24 , G 25 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl group, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl group, a optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted aryl- (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, with the proviso that when G 25 is a hydrogen atom, G 26 may additionally be a group -NH 2 in addition to the abovementioned groups,
    • G 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl group and
    • G 27 represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted aryl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
  • Preferably in formula (E5) the radical -NG 25 G 26 binds to the 5 position and the radical G 27 to the 3 position of the pyrazole cycle.
  • Especially preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-Amino-5- (β-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, as well their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E6) and its tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:
    Figure 01490001
    in which:
    • G 28 , G 29 and G 30 , G 31 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy- (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical which is optionally substituted by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical Rest may be protected, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, a di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle with 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl or a di [(C 1 to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl radical,
    • The X radicals independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radical, a di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl or a di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, an amino, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl or di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl] amino, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group .
    • - i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3,
    • - p has the value 0 or 1,
    • - q has the value 0 or 1 and
    • - n has the value 0 or 1,
    with the proviso that
    • The sum of p + q is not equal to 0,
    • If p + q equals 2, n has the value 0, and the groups NG 28 G 29 and NG 30 G 31 occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
    • If p + q is 1, n is 1, and the groups NG 28 G 29 (or NG 30 G 31 ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
  • The used in formula (E7) substituents are analogous to the invention defined to the above statements.
  • When the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (E6) contains a hydroxy group at one of the 2, 5 or 7 positions of the ring system, there is a tautomeric equilibrium shown, for example, in the following scheme:
    Figure 01500001
  • In particular, among the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E7):
    • - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
    • 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
    • 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;
    • 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;
    • 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;
    • - 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;
    • - 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;
    • - 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;
    • 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • - 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine;
    and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when a tautomeric equilibrium is present.
  • The Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E6) can as described in the literature by cyclization starting from an aminopyrazole or hydrazine.
  • All particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group that is formed p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H- imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • The following are examples of the radicals mentioned as substituents of the compounds of the formulas (E1) to (E6): Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 ,
    -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C ( CH 3 ) 3 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radicals according to the invention are -OCH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -OCH (CH 3 ) 2 , -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , OCH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , in particular a methoxy or an ethoxy group.
  • Furthermore, as preferred examples of a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl group, -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHCH (OH) CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, with the group -CH 2 CH 2 OH being preferred.
  • A particularly preferred example of a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group.
  • Examples for halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred examples.
  • Examples of nitrogen-containing groups are in particular -NH 2 , (C 1 to C 4 ) -monoalkylamino groups, (C 1 to C 4 ) -dialkylamino groups, (C 1 to C 4 ) -trialkylammonium groups, (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkylamino groups, Imidazolinium and -NH 3 +
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) monoalkylamino groups are -NHCH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -NHCH (CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -dialkylamino group are -N (CH 3 ) 2 , -N (CH 2 CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) trialkylammonium groups are -N + (CH 3 ) 3 , -N + (CH 3 ) 2 (CH 2 CH 3 ), -N + (CH 3 ) (CH 2 CH 3 ) 2 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino radicals are -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH (CH 3 ), -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O- CH (CH 3 ).
  • Examples of hydroxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -O-CHCH (OH) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHC (O ) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH (NHC (O) CH 3 ) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -carbamoylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH (NH 2 ) CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 CN, -CH 2 CH 2 CN, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CN.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Examples of di [(C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N ( CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 .
  • One Example of aryl groups is the phenyl group.
  • Examples of aryl (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
  • When Coupler components are usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, Naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds used.
  • According to preferred coupler components are
    • - M-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl 3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro 3-aminophenol,
    • O-aminophenol and its derivatives,
    • - M-Diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino ) benzene, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [( 2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenynamino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine and 1-amino- 3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,
    • O-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,
    • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
    • Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
    • Naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
    • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
    • Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
    • Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
    • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
    • Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino 4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine, or
    • - Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene
    and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, Resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned Links.
  • The according to the invention, cosmetic agents the developer components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy.
  • The according to the invention, cosmetic agents the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10 Wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the entire means.
  • The composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte at least one combination of at least one compound of the component
    • 1 compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with at least one compound of the component
    • 2 compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds containing primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds.
  • Compounds of the invention having a reactive carbonyl group (also referred to below as reactive carbonyl compounds or component 1) have at least one carbonyl group as reactive A group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present. These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with
    • a) amines and derivatives thereof to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound
    • b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound
    • c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.
  • Component 1 is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4, 6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethylketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxyacetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4-dimethylaminoacetophenone, 4-morpholinoacetophenone, 4-piperidinoacetophenone, 4-imidazolinoacetophenone, 2-hydroxy-5-bromo-acetophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroacetophenone, acetophenone-2-carboxylic acid, acetophenone-4-carboxylic acid, benzophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, 2- Aminobenzophenone, 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4, 4'-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-1-acetonaphthone, 1-hydroxy-2-acetonaphthone, chromone, chromone-2-carboxylic acid, flavone, 3-hydroxyflavone, 3,5,7-trihydroxyflavone , 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone, quercetin, 1-indanone, 9-fluorenone, 3-hydroxyfluorenone, anthrone, 1,8-dihydroxyanthrone, vanillin, coniferylaldehyde, 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 3 Methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethoxy-benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6-dimethoxy benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2, 6-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 3,5-diethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-diethoxy-4- hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzaldehyde, 2-ethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzal dehyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6- Dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4, 5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-pyrroli dinobenzaldehyde, 4-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 2-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 4-piperidinobenzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4- Hydroxy-3-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxy 1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxy-4- hydroxy-cinnamaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-cinnamic aldehyde, 2-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-cinnamaldehyde, 4-dibutylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diphenylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2 methoxybenzaldehyde, 4- (1-imidazolyl) benzaldehyde, piperonal, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-8 -hydroxy-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, N-ethylcarbazole-3-ald ehyd, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde),
    2-indolealdehyde, 3-indolealdehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 1-acetylindole-3-aldehyde, 3-acetylindole, 1-methyl-3-acetylindole, 2- (1 ', 3 ', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) -acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2-aldehyde, 1-methyl-2-acetylpyrrole, 4-pyridine aldehyde, 2-pyridine aldehyde, 3-pyridine aldehyde, 4-acetylpyridine, 2-acetylpyridine , 3-acetylpyridine, pyridoxal, quinoline-3-aldehyde, quinoline-4-aldehyde, antipyrin-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5-nitrofurfural, 2-thenoyl-trifluoro-acetone, chromon-3-aldehyde, 3- (5 'Nitro-2'-furyl) acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) acrolein and imidazole-2-aldehyde, 1,3-diacetylbenzene, 1,4-diacetylbenzene, 1,3,5-triacetylbenzene, 2- Benzoyl-acetophenone, 2- (4'-methoxybenzoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-furoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone and 2- (3'-pyridoyl) -acetophenone,
    Benzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-dimethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4-diethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3 Benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-Benzylidene-cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) cyclohexanone, 2-benzylidene-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidene-5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxy-3 -methoxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclopentanone, 2 '- (4-hydroxybenzylidene) - cyclopentanone, 2- (4'-dimethyl aminobenzylidene) cyclopentanone, 5- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-methoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-piperidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5 - (4-morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 6- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5 -dien-2-one, 6- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-piperidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- ( 4-morpholinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 5- (4-dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3, 5-dienal, 2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-hydroxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2- Hydroxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-fluoro-3-nitro benzaldehyde, 3-methoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-6-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2,4-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2, 6-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4,5-dimethoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropiperonal, 5-nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3- nitrosalicylaldehyde, 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid, 4-nitro-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 3-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 4-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 9-methyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 9-ethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 3-acetylcarbazole, 3,6-Diacetyl-9-ethylcarbazole, 3-acetyl-9-methylcarbazole, 1,4-dimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 1,4,9-trimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 4-formyl-1-methylpyridinium-, 2 -Formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1, 2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 2-formyl-1-methyl quinolinium, 4-acetyl-1-methyl-pyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methyl-pyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 5-formyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 6-formyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 7 Formyl 1-methylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-allylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1 allyl-quinolinium, 7-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and 8-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 8- Acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-a lylychinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium and 8-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 9-formyl-10-methylacridinium, 4- (2'-formylvinyl) -1-methylpyridinium, 1,3-dimethyl-2 - (4'-formyl-phenyl) -benzimidazolium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formyl-phenyl) -imidazolium, 2- (4'-formyl-phenyl) -3-methyl-benzothiazolium, 2- (4'-acetyl-phenyl ) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzoxazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2 ' -furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-thienyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (3'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formyl) 1-naphthyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 5-chloro-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3,5-dimethylbenzothiazolium salts, preferably with benzenesulfonate, p Toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethanesulfonate or tetrafluoroborate as counterion, isatin, 1-methyl-isatin, 1-allyl-isatin, 1-hydroxymethyl-isa tin, 5-chloro-isatin, 5-methoxy-isatin, 5-nitro-isatin, 6-nitro-isatin, 5-sulfo-isatin, 5-carboxy-isatin, quinisatin, 1-methyl-quinisatin and any mixtures of the above compounds.
  • When CH-Acids are generally considered to be compounds which a hydrogen atom bonded to an aliphatic carbon atom carry, due to electron-withdrawing substituents a Activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond causes becomes. Under CH-acidic compounds are also according to the invention Enamines by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with one in conjugation to the quaternary nitrogen Arise CH-acidic alkyl group.
  • The CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenedoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dime ethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylnaphtho [1,2- d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3-acetic acid, 1,4-dimethylquinolinium iodide, 1,2-dimethylquinolinium iodide, barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylthiobarbituric acid, 1, 3-diethylbarbituric acid, oxindole, 3-indoxylacetate, 2-coumaranone, 5-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 6-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazolin-5-one, indan-1,2- dione, indan-1,3-dione, indan-1-one, benzoylacetonitrile, 3-dicyanomethylenedan-1-one, 2-amino-4-imino-1,3-thiazoline hydrochloride, 5,5-dimethylcyclohexane-1, 3-dione, 2H-1,4-benzoxazin-4H-3-one, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium iodide, 1-ethyl-4-methylquinolinium iodide, 1-ethyl 2-methylquinolinium iodide, 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate onat, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, and 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum p-toluenesulfonate.
  • Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2.5- Dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4- aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminophenol, 2,5-diaminoanisole, 2,5, diaminophenethol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- 2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3,4- Methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 4-methylaminophenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-methyl-5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -phen ol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-methyl-5-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -4-aminophenol, 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) -benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-methylbenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino 6-methylbenzene, 2-amino-5-acetamidophenol, 1,3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, N, N-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-4-fluoro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-5-fluorotoluene, 2,4-diamino-5- (2 -hydroxyethoxy) -toluene, 2,4-diamino-5-methylphenol, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-1-methylbenzene, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole, 2,6-bis- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 1,3-diamino-2,4-dimethoxybenzene, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-toluene, 2-aminobenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, 2-aminophenylacetic acid, 3-aminophenylacetic acid, 4-aminophenylacetic acid, 2,3-diaminobenzoic acid, 2,4-diaminobenzene benzoic acid, 2,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-aminosalicylic acid, 5-aminosalicylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-aminobenzenesulfonic acid , 3-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene-1-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino-4-hydroxynaphthalene-2 sulfonic acid, 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid, 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1,3,5-triaminobenzene, 1,2,4-triaminobenzene, 1 , 2,4,5-tetraaminobenzene, 2,4,5-triaminophenol, pentaaminobenzene, hexaaminobenzene, 2,4,6-triaminoresorcinol, 4,5-diaminobrcatechol, 4,6-diaminopyrogallol, 1- (2-hydroxy-5- aminobenzyl) -2-imidazolidinone, 4-amino-2 - ((4 - [(5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methyl] piperazinyl) methyl) phenol, 3,5-diamino-4-hydroxy-catechol, 1,4-bis - (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, aromatic nitriles such as 2-amino-4-h ydroxybenzonitrile, 4-amino-2-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-aminobenzonitrile, 2,4-diaminobenzonitrile, amino groups containing nitro groups, such as 3-amino-6-methylamino-2-nitro-pyridine, picric acid, [8 - [(4-amino 2-nitrophenyl) -azo] -7-hydroxy-naphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride, [8 - ((4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo) -7-hydroxy-naphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride (Basic Brown 17), 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene, 1-amino-2- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1-amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-chloro 5-nitro-N-2-hydroxyethyl-1,4-phenylenediamine, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethynamino] -2-nitro-4-aminobenzene (HC Red No. 3), 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrophenol, 6-nitro-o-toluidine, 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 1-amino 2-nitro-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-chlorobenzene (HC Red # 10), 2- (4-amino-2-nitroanilino) benzoic acid, 6-nitro-2, 5-diaminopyridine, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2- (3-nitrophenylazo) -7-phenylazo-8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Acid blue No. 29), 1-amino- 2- (2-hydroxy-4-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Palatinchrome green), 1-amino-2- (3-chloro-2-hydroxy-5-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol 3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (gallium), 4-amino-4'-nitrostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid disodium salt, 2,4-diamino-3 ', 5'-dinitro-2'-hydroxy-5-methyl Azobenzene (Mordant brown 4), 4'-amino-4-nitrodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4'-amino-3'-nitrobenzophenone-2-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-4-nitro-2- (2-nitrobenzylideneamino) benzene, 2- [2- (diethylamino) ethylamino] -5-nitroaniline, 3-amino-4-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-3'-nitrobiphenyl, 3-amino-4-nitro-acenaphthene, 2 -Amino-1-nitronaphthalene, 5-amino-6-nitrobenzo-1,3-dioxole, anilines, especially nitro group-containing anilines, such as 4-nitroaniline, 2-nitroaniline, 1,4-diami no-2-nitrobenzene, 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 4-nitro-1,3-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-4-amino-1- (2 -hydroxyethylamino) -benzene, 2-nitro-1-amino-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-5-chloro -4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, aromatic anilines or phenols with a further aromatic radical, as shown in the formula II
    Figure 01600001
    in the
    • R 7 represents a hydroxy or amino group represented by C 1-4 alkyl, C 1-4 hydroxyalkyl, C 1-4 alkoxy or C 1-4 alkoxy C 1-4 alkyl groups may be substituted,
    • R 8 , R 9 , R 10 , R 11 and R 12 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl or an amino group which is represented by C 1 -C 4 -alkyl-, C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, C 1 - C 4 alkoxy, C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups may be substituted, and
    • • P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group of formula III -Q '- (CH 2 -Q-CH 2 -Q'') o - (III) in the
    • Q signifies a direct bond, a CH 2 or CHOH group,
    • • Q 'and Q''independently represent an oxygen atom, an NR 13 group, wherein R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 14 alkyl or a hydroxy C 1-4 alkyl group, both of which together with the remainder of the molecule is a 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring, the group O- (CH 2 ) p -NH or NH- (CH 2 ) p -O, wherein p and p 'are 2 or 3, and
    • O is a number from 1 to 4,
    such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid mono- or di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4, 4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfoxide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, 4,4'-diaminodiphenyl ether , 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraaminodiphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraamino-benzophenone, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1,8-bis ( 2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) propane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) -2-propanol, 1,3-bis [N - (4-aminophenyl) -2-hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis [2- (4-aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine, N-phenyl-1,4-phenylenediamine and bis (5 amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane.
  • The The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form as well as in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, especially as salts of inorganic acids, such as or sulfuric acid.
  • Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2, 3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-aminopyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5- diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl-pyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) -amino-ethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-) pyridyl) amine, N- [2- (4-aminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-pyridyl) amine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5,6- Triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-methylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2, 4-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diaminopyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methoxy-6-methyl-pyrimidine, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1,2,4-triazole, 3-aminopyrazole, 3 Amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 1-phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 4-amino-2, 3-dimethyl-1-phe nyl-3-pyrazolin-5-one (4-aminoantipyrine), 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-aminoquinoline, 3-aminoquinoline, 8-aminoquinoline, 4-aminoquinaldine, 2-aminonicotinic acid, 6-aminonicotinic acid , 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5-aminoindazole, 6-aminoindazole, 5-aminobenzimidazole, 7-aminobenzimidazole, 5-aminobenzothiazole, 7-aminobenzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholino-aniline and indole and indoline derivatives, such as 4-aminoindole , 5-aminoindole, 6-aminoindole, 7-aminoindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4-hydroxyindoline. Furthermore, as heterocyclic compounds according to the invention in the DE-U1-299 08 573 disclosed hydroxypyrimidines can be used. The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.
  • suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, Pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3-dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-Dimethylamino-4-hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid and 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid.
  • The Compounds of component 1 and the compounds of the component 2 are preferably in the cosmetic products in each case Amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based to 100 g of the entire Nuanciermittels used. The molar ratio from the compound of component 1 and the compound of the component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably equimolar Quantities are used. The ready-to-use agent is added separate storage of components 1 and 2 immediately before Application made by mixing.
  • When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferred as the oxidation dye precursor Of the developer type such indoles and indolines used, at least a hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring, exhibit. These groups can carry further substituents, z. B. in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group. In a second preferred Embodiment contain the colorants at least an indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Particularly suitable precursors of natural-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),
    Figure 01620001
    in the independently of each other
    • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxy-alkyl group,
    • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
    • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group,
    • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
    • R 6 represents one of the groups mentioned under R 4 ,
    and physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Especially preferred derivatives of indoline are the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.
  • Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • Also suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of the 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IVb),
    Figure 01630001
    in the independently of each other
    • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group,
    • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
    • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group,
    • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
    • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 ,
    • - As well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Especially preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • Within of this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.
  • preferred direct dyes, which are used in cosmetics as color-modifying Component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, Azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive Dyes are those under international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-Ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, Picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.
  • Further The cosmetic products may have a cationic directing effect Dye included.
  • Particularly preferred are
    • (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
    • (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
    • (C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as described for example in the EP-A2-998 908 to which reference is made at this point, are called in the claims 6 to 11.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
    Figure 01640001
    Figure 01650001
  • The Compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also available under the terms Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive Dyes of group (c).
  • The cationic direct dyes which are sold under the trademark Arianor® ®, are also very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes according to the invention.
  • The Cosmetic agents contain the substantive dyes preferred in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use Medium.
  • Farther can the cosmetic invention Medium also occurring in nature dyes such as, for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, Sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and Alkana root are included.
  • It it is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, in cosmetic products, conditioned by the manufacturing processes for the individual Dyes, in minor amounts still contain other components be, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, excluded Need to become.
  • With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of the cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced.
  • The actual oxidative colorant is when stored separately the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before the application is made by mixing. In a preferred embodiment Therefore, the cosmetic product before application of a Composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-modifying component, and another Composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, mixed.
  • at an application of oxidants becomes the ready to use Preparation expediently immediately before the application by mixing a composition containing the Oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing Components, manufactured. The resulting ready-to-use Hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10, have.
  • For a color change by means of brightening or equation the hair is preferred in the inventive cosmetic agents in addition to the oxidizing agents in addition at least one bleach booster is used.
  • bleach booster are preferred in Blondiermitteln to increase the Blondierwirkung the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide used.
  • When Bleach enhancers can be compounds that are listed under Perhydrolysis conditions aliphatic peroxocarboxylic acids with preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid, be used. Suitable substances are the O- and / or N-acyl groups said C atomic number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups wear. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular Tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated Glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl- or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic acid anhydrides, especially phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, especially triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • When Bleach amplifiers may be preferred according to the invention Carbonate salts, or bicarbonate salts are used. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, Alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (in particular Calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Especially Preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, Sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, Dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These most preferred Salts may be used alone or in mixtures thereof of at least two representatives are used as bleaching amplifiers.
  • At least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used as bleaching enhancers of the monoalkyl carbonate type and derivatives thereof in the novel process Method used. Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),
    Figure 01670001
    in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • In formula (V), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C 1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized the radical R in formula (V) is selected from Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl as well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • As an alternative to the carbonic acid monoester or in conjunction with it, carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to use at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI),
    Figure 01680001
    in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • In formula (VI), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C 1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred bleach boosters of formula (VI) are thereby characterized in that the radical R is selected in formula (VI) is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl as well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • The Acid H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide may also be in neutralized form, d. H. it can According to the invention, salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic monoamides are used. Here are Carbonic acid monoester according to the invention or the carbonic acid monoamide, in whole or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, Alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its Sodium salt.
  • As bleach boosters of the type of silyl carbonates and derivatives thereof, at least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention. Preference is given to using silyl carbonates of the formula (VII)
    Figure 01690001
    in which the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R 4 is a chemical bond to the Si atom or one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among these, the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals. As bleach booster, at least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention,
    Figure 01700001
    where the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or for a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R 4 and R 5 independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted tuierten heterocycle stand.
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among them, the alkyl groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl groups are preferred, so that compositions preferably used are characterized in that the groups R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n Propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 and R 5 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • When other additional bleach booster can preferred in the compositions of the invention at least one compound selected from acetic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, Salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid be.
  • bleach booster are preferably peroxo compounds. Among the bleaching according to the invention Peroxo compounds are not subject to the addition of hydrogen peroxide to other components and not even hydrogen peroxide itself. The choice of peroxo compounds is also subject no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are Peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate, Potassium peroxydisulfate, sodium peroxydisulfate, ammonium persulfate, Potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxide phosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination are According to the invention, the inorganic compounds prefers. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular Ammonium peroxydisulfate.
  • The Bleach amplifiers are in the inventive, cosmetic agents preferably in amounts of 5-30% by weight, especially in amounts of 8-20 wt .-%, contained.
  • The contain cosmetic agent of the invention when used as a bleaching agent act as a preferred alkalizing agent at least one A compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and Alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.
  • The usable as alkalizing agent according to the invention Alkali hydroxides are preferably selected from the group which is formed from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.
  • The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • Especially Preferably, the alkalizing agent is selected from at least one compound from the group that is formed from 2-aminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, Potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, D-arginine, DL-arginine, N-methylglucamine, Morpholine, imidazole and urea.
  • In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. Under UV light protection filters are organic substances that are able to absorb ultra-violet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances z. To name, for example:
    • - 3-Benzylidencampher and its derivatives, for. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
    • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester;
    • Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
    • Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
    • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
    • Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
    • - Triazine derivatives, such as. 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
    • - Propane-1,3-dione, such as. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • Suitable water-soluble substances are:
    • 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
    • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
    • - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments are also suitable for this purpose, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which are ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating from the spherical shape Own form. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
  • Furthermore, the cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
    • Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
    • Anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers
    • - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
    • Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
    • Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
    • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
    • Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
    • Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate
    • Defoamers like silicones,
    • Dyes for staining the agent,
    • Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
    • - active substances such as allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol,
    • Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B 3 , B 5 , B 6 , C, E, F and H,
    • - Plant extracts such as extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root,
    • - cholesterol,
    • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
    • Fatty acid alkanolamides,
    • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
    • - swelling and penetrating substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
    • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
    • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
    • - pigments,
    • Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
    • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
    • - antioxidants.
  • In terms of additional optional components and the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art Referred to known relevant manuals.
  • As already mentioned, the high care effect of the invention Means, in particular, are therefore of greater importance than they are in the present of oxidizing agents - for example in the context of oxidative hair coloring - excellent Delivers results.
  • One second subject of the invention is therefore a method of hair treatment, in which a cosmetic agent according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and after a contact time of Hair is rinsed.
  • The Exposure time is preferably a few seconds to 100 Minutes, more preferably 1 to 50 minutes and most especially preferably 1 to 30 minutes.
  • The The following examples are intended to form the subject of the present invention but without limiting it.
  • Examples
  • All Quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.
  • The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods. The following commercial products were used as raw materials: Hydrenol ® D C 16 -C 18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Lorol® ® techn. C 12 -C 18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis Germany) Stenol ® 16/18 C 16-18 fatty alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (Cognis) Lorol® ® 16 INCI name: Cetyl Alcohol (Cognis) Eumulgin ® B1 Cetyl stearyl alcohol with 12 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis Germany) Eumulgin ® B2 Cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 20 EO units (INCI Name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis Germany) Edenor ® C14 Myristic acid (INCI name: Myristic Acid) (Cognis) Turpinal® ® SL 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia) Plantapon ® LGC Alkyl polyglucoside carboxylate sodium salt; 30% active substance (Cognis Germany) Texapon ® NSO UP Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (27% active ingredient; INCI: sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Manufacturer: COGNIS) Texapon ® K 14 S 70 C Lauryl myristyl ether sulfate sodium salt (about 68% to 73% Active substance content '; INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (Cognis) Disponil FES 77 IS ® Fatty alcohol ether sulfate (about 31-33% active ingredient content in Water; INCI name: Sodium Coceth-30 Sulfate) (Cognis) Akypo ® Soft 45 NV 2- (C 12-14 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (4.5 EO)) acetic acid, sodium salt; 21% active substance; INCI name: Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylates (KAO) Gluadin® ® W 40 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 40% solids; Name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoates, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben) (Cognis) Plantacare ® 1200 UP C 12-16 fatty alcohol-1,4-glucoside (about 50-53% active ingredient content; Name: Lauryl Glucoside, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Lamesoft ® PO 65 Alkyl polyglucoside oleic acid monoglyceride mixture (about 65-70% Solid; INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua (Water)) (Cognis) Aculyn ® 33 30% by weight of active substance in water (INCI name: Acrylate copolymer) (Rohm & Haas) DOW Corning® DB 110 A non-ionic silicone emulsion (10% by weight of active substance) (INCI name: Dimethicone) (Dow Corning) Aristoflex® ® AVC Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and ammonium acryloyl dimethyltaurat; (INCI name: ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP Copolymer, t-butyl alcohol) (Clariant) Polymer ® W 37194 about 20% by weight of active substance content in water; INCI name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer (Stockhausen) Cremophor ® A 25 C 16-18 fatty alcohol ethoxylated with 25 units of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Ceteareth-25) (BASF)
  • oxidative color change agents
  • To prepare a ready-to-use colorant, 50 g of a tinting cream of the table of tinting creams listed below was mixed with 50 g of a developer according to the developer table with stirring. From each dyeing cream, three different application mixtures were prepared with the aid of one of the three developers according to the table of the developers. It resulted from each dyeing cream 3 different application mixtures, which differed only in the content of hydrogen peroxide. When applied to the hair of the head and with a contact time of 30 minutes, after rinsing and drying with each application mixture, an excellent dyeing result or for F6 brightening result was achieved. coloring creams F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 Hydrenol D 5.50 8.50 - 8.10 7.15 7.15 Lorol 16 2.00 2.00 8.00 2.70 2.60 2.60 isostearic - - - 2.00 - - Edenor C14 98/100 - - - 0.50 - - Eumulgin B1 0.50 0.75 - 0.50 0.65 0.65 Eumulgin B2 0.50 - - 0.50 0.65 0.65 Mergital CS 50 A - - 5.00 - - - Dehydol LS 2 deo N - - 4.90 - - - Edenor PK 1805 - - 6.75 - - - Lamesoft PO 65 2.00 - - - - - Akypo Soft 45 NV 10.00 - - - 10.00 10.00 Protelan MST 35 - - - - 6.00 6.00 Texapon K 14 S 70% 2.80 - - - - - Texapon NSO UP - 15.00 4.50 7.00 - - Amphoteric K-2 - - 1.00 - - - Dehyton K. - 12.50 - 5.00 - - Product W 37194 3.00 - - - 3.00 3.00 Merquat 280 - - 2.00 - - - Ammonia 25% 6.50 1.50 - 7.30 - - 2-aminoethanol - - 4.50 - 6.30 6.30 potassium hydroxide - - - 1.20 1.00 1.00 L-arginine - 1.00 1.00 - - - Turpinal SL 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 1,2-propanediol - - 6.75 - - - isopropanol - - 14,50 - - - 2-phenoxyethanol - 0.60 - - - - methylparaben - 0.15 - - - - Propylparaben - 0.15 - - - - Sodium silicate 40/42 - 0.50 - 0.50 0.50 0.50 p-Toluylendiamisulfat 1.40 0.50 0.30 1.00 1.10 - 4-amino-3-methylphenol - 0.20 - - - - resorcinol 0.50 - 0.03 0.10 - - 4-chlororesorcinol - 0.20 0.10 - - - 2-methyl - 0.60 0.15 0.50 0.10 - 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene - 0.40 - - 0.30 - 2,4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidinsulfat - 1.40 - 1.00 - - 2-Amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-anisolsulfat - 0.01 - - - - 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxy-pyridine - - 0.05 0.10 - - 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine - - - - 0.07 - m-aminophenol 0.10 - - 0.05 - - 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol - 0.10 - - - - ascorbic acid 0.10 0.40 0.20 0.40 0.10 0.10 Sodium sulfite 96% 0.40 0.40 0.20 0.50 0.40 0.40 ammonium sulfate 0.16 - - 0.30 - - ammonium - 0.80 - - - - glycine - - - 1.20 1.00 1.00 Quaternium-91 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.25 0.2 0.1 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.1 Ectoin 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 taurine 1.00 1.25 1.50 2.00 1.50 1.50 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 water <--------------------------- ad 100 -------------------- ------>
    developer F1 F2 F3 dipicolinic 0.10 0.10 0.10 disodiumpyrophosphate 0.03 0.03 0.03 Turpinal SL 1.50 1.50 1.50 Texapon NSO UP 2.00 2.00 2.00 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 0.1 0.1 - Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.1 - 0.1 Aculyn 33A 12,00 12,00 12,00 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 12,00 20.00 24.00 water <------------------------------- ad 100 ---------------- ------------------->
    shampoo S-1 S-2 S-3 S-4 Texapon N70 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.00 Arlypon F 1.0 1.0 Antil 141 L 1.0 1.0 Gluadin WQ 0.3 0.3 DC 193 fluid 0.5 0.5 Quaternium-91 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Lamesoft PO 65 0.3 0.3 - - Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt - 0.1 0.1 - Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dehyton PS 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Euperlan PK 3000 AM 2.0 2.0 D-panthenol 0.1 0.1 nicotinamide 0.1 0.1 Cetiol HE 0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5 Cremophor CO 40 2.0 2.0 Polyquaternium 10 0.2 0.2 0.5 0.5 sodium chloride 1.5 1.5 0.3 0.3 Litchiderm LS 9704 0.1 0.5 0.05 0.2 Ectoin 0.1 0.5 0.3 0.3 taurine 0.5 1.0 0.25 0.75 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.5 0.05 0.2 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
    shine Tonic T-1 T-2 T-3 T-4 Dehyquart A-CA 1.0 1.0 Polyquart H 81 2.0 2.0 Quaternium-91 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 Cremophor CO 40 2.0 2.0 phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 citric acid 0.5 0.5 isopropanol 6.0 6.4 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 0.5 1.0 1.0 2.0 DC 200 fluid 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 Cetiol J 600 0.5 0.3 1.0 n-butane 91.5 91.5 Litchiderm LS 9704 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 Ectoin 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 taurine 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.3 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.5 0.1 0.1 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
    flush Sp-1 Sp-2 Sp-3 Sp-4 Cutina GMS-V 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 Dehyquart F 75 3.8 0.8 1.0 1.0 Lanette O 4.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 Eumulgin B2 0.2 0.2 0.3 0.3 Paraffin Liquidum 0.8 0.8 Verisoft W 575 PG 4.0 4.0 Quaternium-91 3.5 4.0 2.5 3.0 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 1.0 0.5 1.5 0.3 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.1 isopropyl 1.0 1.0 Tego amid S 18 0.3 0.3 Salcare SC 96 0.6 0.6 Zitrionensäure 0.4 0.4 D-panthenol 0.2 0.2 Ajidew NL 50 1.0 1.0 Dehyquart A-CA 3.0 3.0 lactic acid 0.5 0.5 phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 Wacker Belsil ADM 8020 VP 0.9 0.9 Litchiderm LS 9704 0.1 0.3 0.1 0.2 Ectoin 0.1 0.3 0.3 0.3 taurine 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.3 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.3 0.1 0.2 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
    conditioner K-1 K-2 K-3 K-4 Synthetic K 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Sepigel 305 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Dow Corning 1403 Fluid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Caustic soda 50% 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Luviskosl K 30 (powder) 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Polymer JR 400 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Gafquat 755 N 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Dehyquart F 75 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Quaternium-91 1.0 1.5 2.0 4.0 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 1.0 0.5 1.5 0.3 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.1 Ethanol 96% 17.0 17.0 17.0 17.0 D-panthenol 75% 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 nicotinamide 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Ajidew NL 50 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Litchiderm LS 9704 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Ectoin 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 taurine 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
    hair gel G-1 G-2 G-3 G-4 Synthetic K 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 PVPNA copolymer 60/40 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 Dow Corning 193 Fluid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Quaternium-91 1.0 1.5 2.0 4.0 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 1.0 0.5 1.5 0.3 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.1 Ethanol 96% 25.0 25.0 25.0 25.0 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Litchiderm LS 9704 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Ectoin 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 taurine 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
    hair spray G-1 G-2 G-3 G-4 Ethanol 96% 45.0 45.0 45.0 45.0 AMP 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Amphomer LV-71 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 Quaternium-91 1.0 1.5 2.0 4.0 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 1.0 0.5 1.5 0.3 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 0.5 0.5 0.3 0.1 dimethyl ether 40.0 40.0 40.0 40.0 Litchiderm LS 9704 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Ectoin 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 taurine 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 Extrapone White Tea GW 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.5 water Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100
    Hair Conditioner, Rinse-Off: C 16-18 fatty alcohol 7.00 Eumulgin ® B2 1 0.03 Genamin ® DSAC20 2 1.20 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C 12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Quaternium-91 1.00 Dehyquart F 75 3 1.20 amodimethicone 0.60 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 0.5 Amaranth oil 0.1 glycol 0.15 panthenol 0.5 tocopheryl acetate 0.1 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 water ad 100
    • 1 cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
    • 2 Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
    • 3 mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)
    Hair Conditioner, Rinse-Off: C 16-18 fatty alcohol 5.00 Eumulgin ® B2 1 0.03 Genamin ® DSAC20 2 1.20 Trideceth-10 0.19 Trideceth-5 0.11 Dow Corning 200, 60000 cSt 0.5 Amaranth oil 0.1 Dehyquart F 75 3 1.20 amodimethicone 0.48 glycerin 0.135 Quaternium-91 6.00 Pantholacton 0.5 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 water ad 100
    • 2 cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
    • 2 Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
    • 3 mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)
    1. Spray cure, rinse-off: cetyltrimethylammonium 1.00 amodimethicone 0.60 glycol 0.15 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C 12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Argan oil 0.1 Cremophor ® CO-40 1 0.60 panthenol 0.50 Quaternium-91 2.00 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 olive oil 0.3 water ad 100
    • 1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (COGNIS)
    2. Spray cure, leave-on: Dehyquart F 75 1 1.50 amodimethicone 0.48 glycerin 0.135 Trideceth-10 0.19 Trideceth-5 0.11 Quaternium-91 1.00 Cremophor ® CO-40 1 0.80 Sunflower oil 0.10 Dow Corning 200, 0.65 cSt 0.5 niacinamide 0.10 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 water ad 100
    • 1 mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)
    3. Hair Conditioner, Rinse-Off: C 16-18 fatty alcohol 7.00 Eumulgin ® B2 0.03 Genamin ® DSAC20 1.20 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C 12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Quaternium-91 1.00 Dehyquart F 75 1.20 amodimethicone 0.60 Dimethiconol 0.60 Dow Corning DC 200, 60000 cSt 0.3 isopropyl palmitate 0.3 glycol 0.15 panthenol 0.5 tocopheryl acetate 0.1 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 water ad 100
  • QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION
  • This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.
  • Cited patent literature
    • WO 2006/012930 [0013]
    • WO 02/10257 [0063, 0070]
    • US 5998537 [0075]
    • EP 0874017 A1 [0075]
    • - US 4122029 A [0093]
    • - US 4265878 A [0093]
    • US 4421769A [0093]
    • GB 2066659 A [0093]
    • DE 19756454 [0114]
    • - DE 19738866 [0175]
    • - DE 4413686 [0241, 0244]
    • - GB 2104091 [0250, 0264]
    • - Ep 47714 [0250]
    • - EP 217274 [0250, 0264]
    • - EP 283817 [0250, 0264]
    • - DE 2817369 A [0250, 0264]
    • - DE 3929973 A [0261]
    • - EP 47714 [0264]
    • - DE 3139438 A1 [0343, 0344]
    • WO 92/13829 [0359]
    • - EP 0730830 B1 [0391]
    • EP 0671161 A1 [0435, 0435]
    • - DE 29908573 U1 [0632]
    • - EP 998908 A2 [0644]
  • Cited non-patent literature
    • - Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. [0039]
    • - Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0096]
    • "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0245]
    • - "Medizinische Kosmetologie 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel [0344]
    • - S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3rd. Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997 [0495]
    • - Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989 [0651]

Claims (10)

  1. Hair conditioning composition containing a) at least one quaternary imidazoline derivative having at least two long fat residues according to the formula I and
    Figure 01850001
    b) at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of cosmetic oils and / or mixtures thereof, wherein the weight ratio of imidazoline derivatives (a) to the respective silicone polymer or the cosmetic oil or mixtures thereof (b) is 20: 1 to 1:20 based on the respective active substance contents, and c) a cosmetic carrier.
  2. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it at least one silicone selected from the group of dimethicones and / or the group of the Cylomethicone and / or the group of Amodimethicone and / or the group of dimethiconols and at least one other cosmetic oil contains.
  3. Agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it selected at least one silicone selected from the group of dimethicones and at least one silicone from the group of cyclomehicones and at least one cosmetic oil contains.
  4. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it further comprises at least one further contains cationic compound.
  5. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the further cationic compound is a cationic polymer.
  6. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it additionally at least a substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives containing vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.
  7. Use of a preparation according to one of the claims 1 to 6 for cleansing the skin and hair.
  8. Use of a preparation according to one of the claims 1 to 6 for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.
  9. Method of treating skin or hair, at A preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6 is applied to the skin and / or hair, wherein the After a contact time of 0 to 45 minutes rinsed out again becomes.
  10. Method of treating skin or hair, at A preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6 applied to the skin and / or hair and there to next wash is left.
DE200710060528 2007-12-13 2007-12-13 Hair conditioning compositions containing imidazolines and selected silicones and / or cosmetic oils Withdrawn DE102007060528A1 (en)

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