DE102007031202A1 - New protein hydrolysate obtained from wool of Vicugna useful as laundry detergent, wool detergent, manual dishwashing agent and cosmetic agent, which is useful for treating skin and hair - Google Patents

New protein hydrolysate obtained from wool of Vicugna useful as laundry detergent, wool detergent, manual dishwashing agent and cosmetic agent, which is useful for treating skin and hair

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Publication number
DE102007031202A1
DE102007031202A1 DE200710031202 DE102007031202A DE102007031202A1 DE 102007031202 A1 DE102007031202 A1 DE 102007031202A1 DE 200710031202 DE200710031202 DE 200710031202 DE 102007031202 A DE102007031202 A DE 102007031202A DE 102007031202 A1 DE102007031202 A1 DE 102007031202A1
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ch
acid
copolymer
preferably
oil
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DE200710031202
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German (de)
Inventor
Dieter Dr. Goddinger
Marcus Krueger
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Priority to DE200710031202 priority Critical patent/DE102007031202A1/en
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Application status is Withdrawn legal-status Critical

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002Aftershave preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Abstract

Protein hydrolysate (I) or its derivative, obtained from wool of Vicugna, is new. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process for treating skin and hair comprising applying (I) on the skin and/or the hair, and rinsing with water after an influential time of few second to 45 minutes. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

  • The The invention relates to a protein hydrolyzate from the wool of vicuna and cosmetic compositions containing this hydrolyzate.
  • The Cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important part of human body care. This is how human hair becomes today in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations treated. These include cleaning the hair with Shampoos that care and regeneration with rinses and Cures and bleaching, dyeing and deforming the hair with coloring agents, tinting agents, waving agents and Styling preparations. There are funds for change or nuancing the color of the head hair a prominent role.
  • Not lastly by the heavy use of the hair, for example by dyeing or perming as well as by cleaning the hair with shampoos and environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect to. Such care products affect the natural Structure and properties of hair. So afterwards to such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combing of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair, as well as the outer structure of the hair smoothed be, which shows by an increased gloss, or the hair be protected against increased splitting.
  • It is therefore common for a long time, the hair of a special To undergo post-treatment. It will, usually in the form of a conditioner, the hair with special active ingredients, for example, quaternary ammonium salts or special ones Polymers, treated. This treatment will vary depending on the formulation the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair improves, the gloss increases and the splitting rate reduced.
  • Farther have recently become so-called combination preparations designed to reduce the overhead of the usual multi-stage process, especially when used directly by consumers.
  • These Preparations contain, in addition to the usual components, for example, to clean the hair, in addition to active ingredients, which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment agents. The consumer thus saves an application step; simultaneously The packaging costs are reduced because one product is less used becomes.
  • The available drugs for both separate aftertreatment agents as well as for combined preparations generally act preferentially on the hair surface. Thus, active substances are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, give better wet or dry combabilities or prevent the splits. As important as the outer one However, the appearance of the hair is the inner structural cohesion of hair fibers, especially in oxidative and reductive processes as coloring and perms are strongly influenced can.
  • The However, known active ingredients may not meet all needs cover adequately. It therefore persists a need for drugs or drug combinations for cosmetic products with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye and / or electrolyte-containing Formulations there is a need for additional caring Active ingredients that easily incorporate into known formulations to let.
  • Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. In relevant dermatological journals, reports of increasing intolerance in broad sections of the population are piling up on everyday products. These intolerances are based, among other things, on the changing consumer habits and the availability of the most exotic raw materials and foods in daily use. Consumers are therefore often advised, for example, in their diet of local products to serve. Therefore, a particularly great challenge for the cosmetics chemist is to develop cosmetics for the cleansing and care of skin and hair preferably from particularly compatible and already well-proven raw materials. Particular attention is paid to the specific selection of selected raw materials, which can fulfill multifunctional tasks in the formulation, so that as few ingredients as possible are contained in one formulation. The fewer ingredients in a formula, the better these ingredients are known, the lower the risk of intolerance. If, in exceptional cases, a hypersensitive reaction should occur, the allergist may very quickly become irritating due to the small number of ingredients determine the substance for this consumer. The cosmetics are thus safer overall in use and in the compatibility for the consumer.
  • Searched are therefore as nourishing agents, which are characterized by a particularly good compatibility. At the same time it is allowed however, the spectrum of action and the property profile of the cosmetic Composition through the use of mild and especially good compatible with new ingredients alter the conventional compositions adversely. This is further complicated by the fact that in the inventive Consciously only as few ingredients as necessary necessary to be used.
  • cleaning supplies for skin and hair, as for example as liquid Soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower and wash gels are commercially available not only have good cleaning power, but should continue for the skin and mucous membranes be well tolerated and also with frequent use do not cause excessive defatting or skin dryness. In addition, the consumer assesses the performance characteristics but also according to the quantity and the quality of the application forming foam, after the care effect and the freshness feeling.
  • In Modern skin and hair treatment products are usually tried to combine all of these requirements in one product. extensive However, studies have shown that, for example, shower rooms generally by the consumer either as a freshness-oriented product or as a nourishing product. For the fresh-oriented Products, the freshness experience is positively assessed, skin care On the other hand, aspects are missed by the consumer. On the other Side, the nourishing products provide the skin and the hair palpable with care substances, but have the consumers criticized Disadvantages of the lesser freshness effect and possibly the lower Foaming power, which usually comes with the feeling associated with a poorer cleaning performance.
  • The Cleaning and care for dry skin is even greater Problem dar. Due to the usually high surfactant content In particular, the dry skin is even more stressed. Due to the high surfactant content of the dry skin Lipids deprived on a large scale. This dries this skin type even stronger, becomes brittle, cracked and scaly. This appearance is evident both on the body and also on the scalp. Usually, cleaning agents for use on dry skin therefore moisturizing substances added. However, these in turn lead to a clear weaker foaming of products. This creates the consumer the impression that these detergents are not would clean sufficiently.
  • Usually This will try to further dry out dry skin counteract the fact that the agents lipid-replenishing or humectants such as glycerin or similar to water adds binding hydrating substances. The keratolytic Dry skin reaction is caused by the surfactants but not prevented.
  • Especially in the case of dry skin, therefore, are particularly skin-friendly Compositions which require keratolysis of the Reduce the skin significantly. The compositions desired by the consumer should be cleansed by people with dry skin and non-irritating both during use and as well especially in the period after the application are felt. This applies to remedies that only stay on the skin for a short time and rinsed out again after a short exposure time, such as shower or hand wash pastes, hand wash creams or washing lotions, as well as for remedies, which after the cleansing application does not completely recover from the skin be rinsed off, such as make-up remover.
  • additionally is a significantly improved state of modern compositions the skin in terms of the moisture balance of the dry skin expected. Finally, it is desirable for the consumer to when the compositions are significantly delayed Restriction of skin and hair lead. The wetting of skin and hair with impurities should be significantly delayed become. This lotus effect in turn contributes decisively to help with that especially the dry and sensitive skin or dry, splattered and heavily stressed hair not need to be cleaned so often. This will the sensitive and dry skin as well as heavily used hair significantly less due to the further action of surfactant-containing Compositions damaged.
  • In the western high-tech countries, therefore, the frequently undescribed experience of the ancient peoples is increasingly being used. For example, the old traditional Chinese Me enjoys itself Although it is increasingly popular, it teaches that plant extracts in particular can have many positive effects on the health of the human body. It complements the homeopathy of Western "herbal medicine".
  • But also in South America lived highly engineered peoples, their knowledge was often lost or today only by oral tradition is known. For example, the Aztecs or the Incas used animals and plants, which are no longer respected by modern man today become. Today, for example, in almost all cosmetic Means protein hydrolysates and derivatives of these protein hydrolysates used. These raw materials are characterized by excellent compatibility out. Other properties of protein hydrolysates are the improvement the compatibility of surfactants and emulsifiers, the improvement the properties of skin and hair, such as the restructuring of hair, improving the combability of the wet and dry hair, increasing the breaking strength of wet and dry hair, increasing the elasticity of skin and hair. The person skilled in the art knows the positive properties the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives for decades already very accurate. As sources of protein hydrolysates and others Derivatives are used in particular plants and animals. Known Hydrolyzates can be found on the basis of wheat, corn, rice, soya, Animal skins and animal hair of sheep, in particular merino sheep or cashmere of goats, cattle, chicken feathers etc. Due The public discussion of BSE will be in the last few years Years ago, products used on a plant-based basis. Nevertheless, because of their resemblance to the human Skin and human hair products on an animal basis quite well Advantages. Such is the similarity of amino acids and amino acid sequences to human skin and human Hair is significantly larger for animal-based products. Therefore, their affinity to skin and hair is much better than with herbal products.
  • A animal wool with very special and unique properties is the wool of vicuna. It is far more valuable than cashmere wool. With the wool of the Vikuja can be the lightest and warmest garments to produce on a natural raw material basis that exists. Garments made of the wool of Vikunja were allowed in the age the Incas exclusively the princes of the Incas wear. The vicuna itself was called the animal of the gods revered. The Incas also called it "Princess of the Andes". The coat of vicuna was considered by the Incas as the "fiber of the gods".
  • vicunas are under protection of species. They can only be extreme difficult to be bred. They live in the highlands between 3500 m and 5500 m in Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. The vicuna is a camel sheep. It is the smallest known camel with a size of about 1.50 m. It is similar to guanaco and lama. It lives in small territorial family associations. Earlier the animals regularly because of their coat and their Wool hunted. Only when the animals were nearly extinct, remembered We look again at the way the Inka interact with the vicuña back. Today, the shy and wild animals Gathered once a year in Gates. Then be the animals shaved as quickly as possible, so that on them acting stress due to the hunt and short-term detention is not gets too big. Only every second year can a Vikunja be shorn become. The yield per animal is about 200 g Raw wool. To knit a pullover, the wool of at least 3 to 4 animals needed. The knitted sweater then has a retail price of about 3000 euros. A coat consumed about the wool of 20 to 25 vicuña and costs about 15,000 euros.
  • at the manual cleaning of dust and the processing of raw wool About 10 to 15% of the wool is lost. With only 12 μm In diameter, Vikunja's wool is the finest spinnable natural fiber. The explains her outstanding position for the highest quality Clothes. In addition, the wool is not arbitrary is available. There is today again appreciated 200,000 animals, which continue to be protected. Consequently About 2,000 kg of Vikunja wool are economically available. Only the shearing to obtain the wool is allowed. The sale wool is at the same time the economic source of income numerous mountain villages in the Andes. The annual Scissors of the animals often become like the Incas celebrated as a festival in the villages.
  • Surprisingly It has now been found that the wool of Vikunja in excellent It is suitable to produce protein hydrolysates and their derivatives and to use them in cosmetic compositions.
  • The hitherto known animal protein hydrolysates and derivatives are distinguished by a relatively dark inherent color and a distinct inherent odor. Color and odor intensify during storage of the raw materials. Moreover, when using animal feedstocks in cosmetics, consumers have a prejudice of contamination by pathogens, such as BSE agent.
  • These Disadvantages of the known products has a hydrolyzate on the basis Vikunja's wool is not on. Surprisingly, you can the reaction times in the preparation of the hydrolysates from the Wool of Vikunja be shortened significantly. In addition, you can at the same time the reaction temperatures are lowered. Thereby become hydrolyzates and their derivatives with a weak at best Own odor and a weak intrinsic color.
  • One The first object of the invention are therefore protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, which are made from the wool of vicuna.
  • The protein hydrolyzate according to the invention from the wool of vicuna and the derivatives of these hydrolysates can be prepared by the customary methods known to the person skilled in the art. Suitable for hydrolysis are the processes which operate on an alkaline hydrolysis at temperatures above 90 ° C in the presence of basic substances such as CaO, Ca (OH) 2 , caustic soda, potassium hydroxide, alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, etc. The reaction temperatures are about 80 to 100 ° C. Also, processes under elevated pressure and elevated temperature are of course suitable. The chemical hydrolysis is carried out for a period of at least 5 minutes up to 60 minutes.
  • Likewise suitable are processes which enzymatically with the aid of alkaline Proteases work. In the case of enzymatic hydrolysis can also neutral proteases are used. The enzymatic hydrolysis has the great advantage of being much lower Temperatures are working. So this is usually Temperatures from 20 to 70 ° C not exceeded.
  • Farther are suitable methods which the wool of vicuna in the presence of acidic substances.
  • A Pretreatment for the removal of impurities and digestion of the Keratines of the wool can be made so that the Kerstin hydrolyzed more easily can be.
  • One Digestion of the keratin can be done in alkaline medium be carried out in a pH range between 11 and 13. Therefor Basically all bases are suitable. Preferred may for the digestion alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides be used. The reaction temperatures are about 60 to 100 ° C.
  • to Pretreatment with the alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides can continue a proteolytic enzyme will be present. In the case, that a proteolytic enzyme is included, the pH is this pretreatment at 10 to 11. The in this pretreatment applied temperatures are about 40 to 80 ° C.
  • The Work-up of the crude hydrolyzate also takes place in customary manner by at least one or more filtration steps. by virtue of the viscosity of the reaction mixture may be advantageous be, the filtration in a temperature range between 40 and 100 ° C perform. Depending on the chosen Base may still be required the alkaline earth metals, Ca, Mg, by precipitation and subsequent filtration to remove. As a last step, a concentration on the desired concentration, generally between 5 and 60 wt .-% of active ingredient Keratinhydrolysat from Vikunja wool to be necessary.
  • all common to all suitable processes is that available from them Hydrolysates have an average molecular weight in the range of 100 to 300,000 exhibit. An average molecular weight of 100 to 100,000 can be preferred. However, the average molecular weight depends here also after the later application. For use in compositions for the skin can have higher molecular weights be more advantageous. These amount to 1000 to 300000, preferably 2000 to 300000. For application on the hair can on the one hand the aforementioned products are used for the skin, if a filming on the hair is desired. Will, however on the hair an effect as a structurant to balance the strained Hair structure desired, with a certain penetration capacity of the hydrolyzate is required in the hair inside, then are molecular weights from 100 to 100,000, preferably from 100 to 10,000, and more preferably from 100 to 5000 desired. The molecular weights will be determined by a GPC method.
  • Of course, one skilled in the art will select from among all known methods that which is most suitable for the hydrolysis of wool. Depending on the desired properties of the hydrolyzate, he will adjust the reaction conditions accordingly. This means that he, should be a cystine rich Hydrolyzate be desired, for example, in the case of an enzymatic hydrolysis as enzymes will choose keratolytic enzymes, since in this case only a cystine-depleted hydrolyzate is obtained in this case.
  • Especially suitable processes for the hydrolysis of wool, cashmere or merino wool.
  • Out The hydrolysates of the wool of the vicuna can be found after the N-alkylated, N-alkylated, esterified as well as N-acylated or N-alkylated and esterified protein hydrolysates produce.
  • in the In the case of N-acyl derivatives, the acyl group is a formyl radical Acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having a chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of N-alkyl derivatives, the alkyl group may be linear, be branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length of 1 to 30 C atoms. In case of O-esters are the alcohols of the esterification underlying methanol, Ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, Isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, Nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, lauranols, especially saturated ones or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course can the amino acids or the protein hydrolyzate from the wool of the vicuna at both the N atom and the O atom at the same time be derivatized.
  • The Quaternization or the alkylation of protein hydrolysates or of the amino acids from the wool of the Vikuja can by means of quaternary Ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides be performed. The reaction conditions for this have long been well known and described. These Products are preferred as particularly mild cationic surfactants used in hair and skin care.
  • Further derivatives of the hydrolyzates according to the invention the wool of the Vikunja are condensation products. These condensation products are condensation products of the water-soluble salt the water soluble protein hydrolysates from the wool of Vikunja and fatty acids. These are made by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably of fatty acids with 12-18 carbon atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble Oligopeptides and mixtures thereof, as produced by the Hydrolysis of the wool of Vikunja incurred. These protein hydrolyzate fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferred as Alkali, ammonium, mono-, di- or trialkanolammonium salt. These products are preferred as particularly mild anionic surfactants used in hair and skin cleansing. Furthermore you can They are also used as particularly mild emulsifiers.
  • One second subject of the invention are cosmetic agents containing a protein hydrolyzate and / or derivative of this protein hydrolyzate from the wool of vicuna.
  • The previously described protein hydrolysates and their derivatives from the wool of Vikunja, show in principle all known properties the commonly used protein hydrolysates. These are to count the improvement of the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions for skin and hair that Influencing the inner and outer structure of skin and hair, increasing the elasticity the skin, increasing the breaking strength of wet as well as dry hair, restructuring of hair that Increase the smoothness of skin and hair, generating a pleasant grip and feel on skin and hair in each wet and dry state, an increase the fastnesses of dyed keratinic fibers, for example Wash fastness, color fastness, washout resistance, UV resistance, Sweat resistance, the formation of films on the skin and the hair, the effect as a film former in styling agents Achieving volume and strength of keratinic fibers, as well finally improving the shine of keratin Fibers.
  • In addition, the compositions according to the invention containing a hydrolyzate or derivative of the wool of Vikunja characterized by a significantly improved condition of the skin and hair with respect to the moisture balance of dry skin and dry hair. Finally, it has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention lead to a markedly delayed re-soiling of the skin and hair. The wetting of skin and hair with impurities and water is significantly delayed. This lotus effect in turn contributes significantly to the fact that especially dry and sensitive skin as well as dry and brittle hair do not have to be treated as frequently compared to conventional cosmetic agents according to the prior art without the composition according to the invention. As a result, especially the sensitive and dry skin and dry and damaged hair significantly less damaged.
  • Just due to the properties described in detail above the protein hydrolysates from the wool of the vicuna are suitable new raw materials are also excellently used in compositions Cleaning and care of surfaces of all kinds. Such Products are, for example, manual dishwashing detergents, Window cleaner, bath and toilet cleaner, floor care products etc. In all these means the housewife comes in daily Contact with these compositions. By using protein hydrolysates Vikunja wool can clearly show these compositions more compatible with the skin of the user become.
  • One third and other objects of the present invention are agents containing the protein hydrolysates derived from the wool the vicuña for cleaning utensils. For this can the hydrolysates and their derivatives from the wool the Vikunja also in usual recipes for machine and manual cleaning of laundry, especially wool be used. These include, for example, liquid and powder laundry detergent, wool detergent and fabric softener, each for use in manual and / or automatic cleaning method. Also in these means come the excellent properties of the hydrolyzate and their Derivatives from the wool of the vicuna to wear.
  • Under According to the invention keratinic fibers are furs, Wool, feathers and especially human hair understood.
  • Under "skin" becomes the external surface of man including the skin and mucous membrane in the genital area as well as the scalp understood.
  • The further constituents of the compositions according to the invention will be described below. It is based on the synergistic Ingredients with the active ingredient according to the invention, Hydrolyzate and its derivatives from wool of Vikunja the description of the respective raw material received.
  • One Ingredient, which in almost all cosmetic compositions Uses are surface-active substances. The Surfactants include substantially two groups, the surfactants and the emulsifiers.
  • Under surfactants (E) are surfactants, which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or in volume phases to micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases can aggregate, understood. One distinguishes anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged one hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which are both a negative as well as a compensating positive charge, cationic Surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, are positively charged have hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which no Charges but strong Dipolmomente have and in aqueous Solution are strongly hydrated. At the following mentioned Surfactants are exclusively known compounds. As regards the structure and production of these substances, reference should be made to relevant reviews directed.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,
    • - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
    • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
    • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
    • Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
    • - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. For example, if the C 12 -C 18 fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used, the C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates which are preferably suitable according to the invention are obtained. It is known that the sodium salts of C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and for use to bring. In this way, needles, granules, noodles or bars can be produced. One application of the acyl isethionates are toilet soap pieces and syndets,
    • - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C 8 -C 24 ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
    • - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
    • - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
    • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
    • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
    • Hydroxysulfonates essentially corresponding to at least one of the following two formulas or mixtures thereof and salts thereof, CH 3 - (CH 2 ) y -CHOH- (CH 2 ) p - (CH-SO 3 M) - (CH 2 ) 2 - CH 2 -O- (C n H 2n O) x -H, and / or CH 3 - (CH 2 ) y - (CH-SO 3 M) - (CH 2 ) p -CHOH- (CH 2 ) z - CH 2 -O- (C n H 2n O) x -H where in both formulas y and z = 0 or integers from 1 to 18, p = 0, 1 or 2 and the sum (y + z + p) one Number of 12 to 18, x = 0 or a number from 1 to 30 and n is an integer from 2 to 4 and M = H or alkali, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc and or an ammonium ion, which may optionally be substituted, in particular mono-, di-, tri- or tetraammonium ions with C1 to C4 alkyl, alkenyl or aryl radicals,
    • - Sulfated Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- and / or Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether of formula R 1 - (CHOSO 3 M) -CHR 3 - (OCHR 4 -CH 2 ) n-OR 2 with R 1 , a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R 2 for a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R 3 is hydrogen or a linear alkyl radical having 1 to 24 C atoms, R 4 is hydrogen or a methyl radical and M is hydrogen, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium, wherein the alkyl and alkanol radicals each have 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a metal atom selected from lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium or magnesium and n are a number in the range of 0 to 12 and further the total number of in R 1 and R 3 contains C atoms 2 to 44,
    • Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
    • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    • Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR 2 , in the R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 -hydrocarbon radical,
    • - Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula RCO (AlkO) n SO 3 M in the RCO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a metal such as alkali metal, especially sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, especially magnesium, calcium, zinc, or ammonium ion such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical,
    • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R 8 OC- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y H] -CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z -SO 3 X, in which R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
    • - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R 1 -CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n CH 2 COOM, with R 1 as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ®.
    • Acylglutamates of the formula XOOC-CH 2 CH 2 CH (C (NH) OR) -COOX in which RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,
    • - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin ®, Hostapon ® KCG or Amisoft ® long been commercially Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 Glycol ether groups in the molecule, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • In It is the compositions of the invention particularly advantageous when anionic surfactants as mild anionic Surfactants are used. In particular, by the mild described below anionic surfactants will effect the invention Composition significantly increased.
  • Under the term "mild surfactants" the expert understands surfactants, which can be found in the numerous test methods such as the HET-CAM test, the neutral red test, the BUS model (bovine udder skin model), the human skin model, the ZeiTest, the Draize Test, the Armflexwashtest or the Duhringkammertest etc. have proven to be mild surfactants. Common to all test models is that in principle is measured against a standard on which the measurement results are obtained. In each of these test models there there is a threshold below that of "mild surfactants" is spoken. For example, this threshold is in the HET-CAM test 1.5. That means that as "mild" all Surfactants are called, for example, in the HET-CAM test a relative irritation scores of 1.5 and smaller. The expert know that one surfactant in each test model is another Score results. This means that, for example, a Cocamidopropylbetain even "irritating" in the HET-CAM test, while in the other test models it is more mild Surfactants is attributed. A common and recognized Classification defines surfactants as mild when used in the HET-CAM test have a relative irritation score of less than 1.5. According to the invention preferred however, such surfactants are used as "mild surfactants" and understood which in all currently common test models be classified as "mild." Particularly preferred mild surfactants used are those surfactants which are used in the HET-CAM test have a relative irritation score of less than 1.2. Most notably As mild surfactants, preference is given to using those surfactants which have a relative irritation score in the HET-CAM test of less than 0.8. In all cases, the corresponding HET-CAM tests with a surfactant concentration of 3.0% active substance of the respective Surfactants performed.
  • According to these test methods, the following anionic surfactants have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:
    • Acyl lactylate,
    • Hydroxy mixed ether sulfates,
    • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16 and salts thereof,
    • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
    • Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
    • - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants, which are accessible by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid). If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. For example, if the C 12 -C 18 fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used, the C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates which are preferably suitable according to the invention are obtained. It is known that the sodium salts of C 12 -C 18 acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilering, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and for use to bring. In this way, needles, granules, noodles or bars can be produced. One application of the acyl isethionates are toilet soap pieces and syndets,
    • - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C 8 -C 24 ) ester disodium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
    • Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
    • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    • Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R 1 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n -O- (PO-OX) -OR 2 , in the R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 -hydrocarbon radical,
    • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula R 8 OC- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x -OCH 2 - [CHO (CH 2 CH 2 O) y H] -CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) z -SO 3 X, in which R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably monoglyceride sulfates are used, in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
    • - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R 1 -CO-NR 2 -CH 2 CH 2 -O- (CH 2 CH 2 O) n CH 2 COOM, with R 1 as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is is hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or an ammonium ion, such as + NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 independently of one another for hydrogen or a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ®.
    • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a suitable fatty acid derivative, for example a fatty acid halide. These are produced by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, Di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products produced as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ®, Maypon ®, Gluadin® ®, Hostapon® ® KCG or Amisoft ® has long been in the trade,
    • Acylglutamates and
    • - Acyl aspartates.
  • If the mild anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, it is particularly preferred that they have a narrow homolog distribution. Fatty alcohol ether sulfates with limited homolog distribution are also referred to as "narrow range fatty alcohol ether sulfates." Further, in the case of mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether units, it is preferred that the number of glycol ether groups is 1 to 20, preferably 2 to 15, more preferably 2 to 12. *** " mild anionic surfactants having polyglycol ether without restricted homologue distribution may for example be obtained even if the one hand, the number of polyglycol ether amounts to 4 to 12 and are selected as a counter ion Zn or Mg ions. Examples of these are the commercial product Texapon ASV ®.
  • Of course can all mild and anionic mentioned so far and in the following Surfactants can also be used in the form of their salts. Particularly suitable mild anionic surfactants are each in the form of lithium, magnesium, Zinc, sodium, potassium and ammonium and the mono-, di- and Trialkanolammoniumsalze with 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group in front. The preferred ammonium ions are in addition to the ammonium ion as such monomethylammonium, dimethylammonium, trimethylammonium, Monoethylammonium, diethylammonium, triethylammonium, monopropylammonium, Dipropylammonium, tripropylammonium, monoisopropylammonium, diisopropylammonium, Triisopropylammonium, monobutylammonium, dibutylammonium, tributylammonium, Monoisobutylammonium, diisobutylammonium, triisobutylammonium, Mono-t-butyl-ammonium, di-t-butylammonium, tri-t-butyl-ammonium ions and mixed ammonium ions such as methyl ethyl ammonium, Dimethyl ethyl ammonium, methyl diethyl ammonium, methyl propyl ammonium, Methyl-ethyl-propyl-ammonium, ethyl-diisopropylammonium, ethyl-dibutyl-ammonium, Ethyl diisobutylammonium ions, etc. Of course the teaching of the invention also not the others explicitly mentioned ammonium ions of these alkanolammonium salts.
  • Further mild anionic surfactants which are very particularly preferably used in the composition according to the invention are alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates derived from alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the general formula ( I) derive RO- (G) p (I) with the meaning
    RC 6-22 alkyl or C 6-22 alkenyl,
    G glycoside unit, which is derived from a sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms,
    p number from 1 to 10.
  • Prefers The mild anionic surfactant is selected from anionic Alkyl polyglycosides, the ether carboxylic acids, the acyl isethionates, the protein fatty acid condensates, the taurates, the sulfosuccinates, the fatty acid amide ether sulfates, the NRE fatty alcohol ether sulfates (narrow range fatty alcohol ether sulfates), the acylglutamates and the acylasparaginates and their mixtures.
  • According to the invention especially preferred are the anionic alkyl polyglucosides, such as alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates, ether carboxylic acids, Acylisethionate and Taurate and mixtures thereof used.
  • All particularly preferred is the use of anionic alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • Maximum preferred is the use of carboxylated alkyl polyglucosides and ether carboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • Become as a mild anionic surfactant mixtures of at least two different mild to ionic surfactants used, the mixing ratio of these surfactants is at least 10: 1 to 1:10. Preferred is a mixing ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably from 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5.
  • It was inventively found that the use of mild anionic surfactants and in particular of alkyl and / or Alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or -isoethionaten in the inventive compositions leads to a reduction in skin irritation. this leads to especially when used with the invention Active ingredient complex of a surfactant and at least one sweet grass extract to a significantly significantly delayed desquamation of Skin. Moreover, it has been found according to the invention that when using mild anionic surfactants, in particular the Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or -isoethionate in cleaning and care products Application of these agents significantly enhances foaming becomes. The foam is characterized in particular by a fine-pored, dense, creamy appearance. The foam is considered pleasant soft and supple and easily distributed. simultaneously the foam is firm and well palpable. He shows a certain stamina and is not spontaneous but only after a few minutes. This favors the already described easy dispersibility of the foam. These effects occur in the invention Compositions in particular, when still in combination is formulated with cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.
  • In the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides at least one hydroxyl group is preferably in at least one of the radicals G by -OC 1-12 -alkenyl-COOM, -OSO 3 M, -OP (O) (OM) 2 or -O- CH 2 -CH 2 -SO 3 M replaced with M = H, alkali metal, NH 4 or one of the aforementioned counterions such as Zn, Mg, alkanolammonium.
  • In this case, an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate is particularly preferably used in which -OC 1-12 -alkylene-COOM-O (CH 2 -) n COOM with M = H, Na or K and n = 1 to 3 means. Particularly preferred is the radical O-CH 2 -COONa.
  • Particular preference is given to using an alkyl oligoglycoside carboxylate in which the alkyl radical is a lauryl radical. Especially preferred is a Laurylglucosidcarboxylat as it is available as Plantapon ® LCG Cognis Germany.
  • In The alkyl glycosides of the general formula (I) derive the glycoside units G preferably from aldoses or ketoses.
  • Preferably become the reducing because of the better responsiveness acting saccharides, the aldoses used. Under the aldoses comes because of its easy accessibility and technical Availability in particular the glucose into consideration. The alkyl glycosides used as starting materials particularly preferably are therefore the alkylglucosides.
  • The Index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization, d. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given connection must always be integer and here before For all the values p = 1 to 6, the value p is for a certain alkyl glycoside an analytical calculated calculated Size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl glycosides having a moderate degree of oligomerization p used from 1.1 to 3.0. Particularly preferred are those alkyl glycosides, whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.5 and in particular between 1.1 and 1.4.
  • Of the Alkyl radical R is derived from primary alcohols with 6 bis 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol as well as technical fractions, in addition to the mentioned saturated Alcohols also contain portions of unsaturated alcohols can and are based on natural fats and oils, for example palm oil, palm kernel oil, Coconut oil or beef tallow are obtained. The use of technical coconut oil is particularly preferred here.
  • Next The said fatty alcohols, the alkyl glycosides can also of synthetic primary alcohols with 6 to 22 Derived carbon atoms, in particular the so-called oxo alcohols, which have a proportion of 5 to 40 wt .-% branched isomers.
  • Particularly preferred alkyl radicals are those having 8/10, 12/14, 8 to 16, 12 to 16 or 16 to 18 C-Ato men. Mixtures of the alkyl radicals result in a production starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • method for the preparation of these alkyl glycosides have long been the expert known.
  • The alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, phosphates, sulfates or isethionates used according to the invention can be prepared by known processes. The carboxylates are prepared, for example, by reacting the alkyloligoglycosides with salts of chlorocarboxylic acids in the presence of bases. For example, it can be reacted with 2-chloroacetic acid sodium salt in the presence of NaOH. In the reaction, both the hydroxyl groups in the ring and the -CH 2 -OH group can be reacted. The degree of conversion depends inter alia on the stoichiometry of the feedstock. Preferably, the alkyl oligoglycosides are reacted at least on the -CH 2 -OH group, optionally with an agent capable of reacting one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the ring.
  • Further For example, hydroxyl groups may also be etherified.
  • The Preparation of isethionates is also carried out by known methods of the prior art. It is also known that the products for Hair and body care can be used. In particular, aqueous detergent mixtures are described, the Alkyloligoglykosidisethionate and for example other anionic Containing surfactants.
  • The Preparation of the sulfates is also carried out according to the State of the art. For example, the corresponding alkyl glycoside with gaseous sulfur trioxide or with sulfuric acid, followed by neutralization. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical Preparations containing the alkyloligoglycoside sulfates are also known.
  • After all are detergent mixtures of alkyl oligoglycoside sulfates and alkyl ether phosphates described, for example, in hair conditioners, hair dyes or hair waving agents can be used.
  • The used according to the invention mild anionic Surfactants and particularly preferably the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, Sulfates, phosphates and / or isoethionates are in abundance from 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in an amount of 0.5 to 10.0 wt .-% used
  • The used mild anionic surfactants and particularly preferred the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, Phosphates and / or isoethionates may be used in these agents completely or partially replace the usual anionic surfactants. Thus, the mildness of the invention anionic surfactants as the sole anionic surfactant in the compositions can be used, or mixtures of these mild anionic surfactants with each other or with other usual anionic surfactants are used. This usual anionic surfactants are closer to later explained. For example, the mild anionic Surfactants and other anionic surfactants in a weight ratio in the range of 5: 0.05 to 1: 2, more preferably 3: 0.5 to 1: 2, especially 2.5: 0.5 to 1: 1.5 and most preferably 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5 available.
  • The Amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants also show a synergistic Effect with the champagne extracts according to the invention. This synergistic effect may be due to an increased deposition of champagne extracts on the surface of the skin and hair, resulting in the whole Cosmetic appearance of the skin and hair noticeable power. The special charge effects of amphoteric and zwitterionic Surfactants seem to play a role here.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO (-) or -SO 3 (-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example
    • Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
    • Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
    • Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
    • - with a methyl or C 2 -C 6 alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ® LS, LT Dehydol ® types (Cognis),
    • C 12 -C 30 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • - polyol, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® - types (Cognis),
    • - alkoxylated triglycerides,
    • Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R 1 CO- (OCH 2 CHR 2 ) w OR 3 (E4-I) in the R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen or methyl, R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
    • - amine oxides,
    • - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
    • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
    • Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
    • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
    • Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R 4 O- [G] p (E4-II) in which R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic variable, which is usually a fractional number provides. Preference is given to using alkyl- and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C 8 -C 10 (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C 8 -C 18 coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C 12 - Alcohol may be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C9 / 11-oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C 12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
    • Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III), R 5 CO-NR 6 - [Z] (E4-III) R 5 is CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R 7 CO- (NR 8 ) -CH 2 - [CH (OH)] 4 -CH 2 OH (E4-IV) The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12 / 14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • The Sugar surfactants can be used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based to be included on the entire medium. Amounts of 0.5-15 % By weight are preferred and most preferred are amounts from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.
  • Further typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.
  • When preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid as well as the sugar surfactants proved. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they are fatty acid esters as nonionic surfactants of ethoxylated glycerol.
  • These connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preferred are primary linear and in 2-position methyl-branched aliphatic radicals. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native to go out with vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Substance mixtures with different, from the respective raw material receives dependent alkyl chain lengths.
  • at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are mixtures understood by homologues who are involved in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, Alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates as catalysts be used. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • As additives for further improving the skin feel during and after the application, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which may be recommended for preparing the compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1-20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18. Such products can be prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to z. B. fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial esters based on C 12 -C 18 fatty acids or produced on Fettsäurealkanolamide. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship HLB = 1/5 × (100 wt% L), where wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.
  • The Cationic surfactants (E5) form the last group of surfactants. Cationic surfactants are characterized as part of the invention Complex active in that they are like the amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants to a significantly improved cosmetic Contribute to the appearance of the skin. The cationic charge ensures for a good bond to the rather negatively charged surfaces in particular of stressed skin. At the long fat remnants of this In turn, molecular structures can be amplified attach more hydrophobic substances. This will total an increased deposition of care substances on the surface the skin causes. In particular, the skin feeling is called pleasantly soft to velvety soft.
  • Cationic surfactants (E5) are generally derived from ammonium ions and have a structure (NR 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 ) + with a correspondingly negatively charged counterion. Such cationic ammonium compounds are well known to those skilled in the art. Further cationic surfactants are, for example, the esterquats or the imidazolium compounds. Cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines are particularly preferably used according to the invention. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular those which are labeled by the name of behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylam monium chloride or bromide) known substances. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ® KDMP (Clariant).
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®. The products Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® 180 and Dehyquart ® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.
  • When Further cationic surfactants may be the inventive At least one quaternary imidazoline compound, d. H. a compound having a positively charged imidazoline ring, contain. The following formula (E5-V) shows the Structure of these compounds.
  • Figure 00330001
  • The Radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical with one chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of Formula (E5-V) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred are compounds having a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms, and most preferably with at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred Compound of formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms on. A commercial product of this chain length is, for example known as Quaternium-91. In the formula (E5-V) is shown as a counterion methosulfate. According to the invention However, as counterions, the halides such as chloride, fluoride, Bromide, or phosphates.
  • The Imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably in Amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%. The best results will be in this case with amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% in each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.
  • The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyldimethylamine commercially available. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, but they may Of course, also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions of the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Lanoquat ® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.
  • The cationic surfactants (E5) are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Of course, it is also preferable in the case of the cationic surfactants to select mild cationic surfactants. The criteria for selecting suitable mild surfactants have been previously described in detail. The corresponding mild cationic surfactants include in particular alkylamidoamines, quaternized amidoamines, esterquats and cationic surfactants having at least one behenyl radical in the molecule.
  • cationic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention. Anionic surfactants are used in particular when the inventive Compositions are to be used as shower baths.
  • The Surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.05-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30 Wt .-% and most preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, based on the entire agent used in the invention, used.
  • Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
    • - Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles per propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group .
    • C 12 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
    • Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
    • C 8 -C 22 -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
    • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68, -
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
    • - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
    • - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
    • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
    • - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
    • - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.
  • Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a per se known emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1-5 wt .-% proved. It is a mixed ester which is a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester. The following formula describes the mixed ester in more detail: R 1 OOC-CH 2 - (CHOH-COOR 1 ) -CH 2 -COO-CH) 2 - [C (CH 2 OH) (COOR 2 ) 2 ]
  • Here, R 1 and R 2 are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohol radicals having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms or radicals of dimerization products of these fatty alcohols. The addition of such mixed esters a particularly pleasant feeling on the skin is achieved in the application of the body cleanser.
  • The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.
  • The compositions according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic Emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18 included. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • According to the invention preferred Emulsifiers are the so-called mild emulsifiers. The mildness of emulsifiers can be determined by different methods. For this purpose, for example the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model used. all Testing method in common is that in principle against a standard is measured to which the results are related. Farther It is noted that in the chapter "surfactants" already was described in detail how selected mild raw materials can be. This also applies to the choice of milder Emulsifiers.
  • According to these test methods, the following preferred emulsifiers have proven to be mild to particularly mild and are particularly preferred according to the invention:
    • Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
    • Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
    • Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
    • - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group
    • Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
    • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
    • Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates as already described for the surfactants,
    • Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates as already described for the surfactants,
    • Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in the chapter on surfactants,
    • Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,
    • - zwitterionic surfactants (E2),
    • - ampholytic surfactants (E3),
    • Sugar surfactants of the alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside type according to the formula (E4-II),
    • Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide type according to the formula (E4-III),
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • - polyol, such as the commercially available product ® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ® - types (Cognis),
    • - amine oxides,
    • - Hydroxymischether, for example of the formula R 1 O [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] x (CH 2 CHR 2 O) y [CH 2 CH (OH) R 3 ] z with R 1 is a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl or branched, and / or alkenyl radical having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is hydrogen, a methyl, ethyl, propyl or iso-propyl radical, R 3 is a linear or branched alkyl radical having 2 to 30 C. Atoms, x standing for 0 or a number from 1 to 20, Y for a number from 1 to 30 and z standing for the number 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5.
    • Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
    • Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
    • Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
    • Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),
    • - Esterquats,
    • - Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.
    • C 8 -C 22 -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
    • Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68, -
    • Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
    • Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
    • - Sterols, Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
    • - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithin or Phos pahtidyl choline from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
    • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
    • - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • In the inventively preferred case that the Compatibility of the cosmetic compositions improved to become, are the particularly mild emulsifiers in the compositions preferably used. In these cases, the alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates in amounts below 8 wt .-%, preferably less than 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably less than 2.5 wt .-% used. Most preferably, these compositions are free of Alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfates. "Free from" means in this regard, that these ingredients in no way additional be used. It is possible, however, that they pass through other ingredients, such as through the use of Silicone emulsions, get into the composition. Preferably Therefore, "free from" also means less than 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
  • It It is known that oil-in-water emulsions, henceforth Called O / W emulsions made with nonionic emulsifiers and stabilized, when heated, a phase inversion suffer, d. h., That at higher temperatures the outer, aqueous phase to can be internal phase. This process is usually reversible, d. h. That when cooling back the original Emulsion type regresses. It is also known that the Position of the phase inversion temperature (PIT) depends on many factors is, for example, the type and phase volume of the oil component, from the hydrophilicity and the structure of the emulsifier or composition of the emulsifier system. Furthermore, it is known that emulsions, produced at or slightly below the phase inversion temperature be characterized by special stability and fineness while those above the phase inversion temperature are produced, are less finely divided. Emulsions at At a certain temperature phase inversion suffer PIT emulsions called. These PIT emulsions may be preferred according to the invention because it is due to the just enough amount of emulsifier contain significantly less emulsifier than conventional non-PIT emulsions. Therefore, they are not only particularly inexpensive, but especially mild and gentle on the skin and the hair. Be in the PIT emulsions and ionic surfactants used as emulsifiers, then these are particularly preferred only after the preparation of the PIT emulsion during the Cooling process added to the PIT emulsion.
  • In the active ingredient combination according to the invention especially cationic as well as amphoteric and / or zwitterionic Polymers used as other mandatory ingredients. polymers are used in cosmetic compositions of a variety of Reasons used. Here are also nonionic polymers used.
  • in the The following are some examples of particularly preferred polymers described. The distinction of the invention used Polymers may be due to the charges of the polymers and / or due to their application-specific particularly pronounced Properties are made. The expression "particularly pronounced Properties "reflects the fact that polymers in the general combine several properties in one molecule. Often, however, one of the features is very special in the foreground and is just for the selection of this polymer prevail.
  • First Polymers are described by their respective charges.
  • Under Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which are used in the Main and / or side chain have a group which "temporarily" or "permanent" can be cationic. To be "permanently cationic" According to the invention refers to such polymers, the regardless of the pH of the agent, a cationic group exhibit. These are usually polymers that are quaternary Nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. Especially those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a C1-4 hydrocarbon group on one of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof built polymer backbone are bound, have proved to be particularly suitable.
  • Further Cationic polymers according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group, at certain pH levels as a quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic.
  • The cationic polymers of the invention may be both strengthening and / or film-forming and / or antistatic and / or scavenging polymers as well as polymers with conditioning and / or thickening properties. The suitable cationic polymers are preferably fixing and / or conditioning polymers. By polymers are meant both natural and synthetic polymers which may be cationic or amphoteric charged.
  • These Both groups of polymers have a potentially cationic charge together. Both cationic and amphoteric or zwitterionic Polymers can therefore have their cationic charge density be characterized. The invention Polymers are characterized by a charge density of at least 1 to 7 meq / g. A charge density of at least 2 to 7 meq / g is preferred. Particularly preferred is a charge density from at least 3 meq / g to 7 meq / g.
  • One another characteristic feature of the invention Polymers is their molecular weight. Below the molecular weight of the respective polymer is the molecular weight understood by the manufacturer in the corresponding Datasheets measured by its method. For the selection of a suitable polymer has a molecular weight of at least 50,000 g / u as being suitable according to the invention proved. Have polymers with a molecular weight of more than 100,000 g / u proved to be particularly suitable. Polymers with one molecular weight more than 1,000,000 g / u are particularly suitable.
  • The Deposition of polymers from surfactant solutions at the Surface of keratinous fibers is an adsorption process. This adsorption process is not complete until today Understood. The selection of suitable polymers shown above takes place in the prior art already after the previously shown Charge density or molecular weight criteria.
  • All contain known adsorption equations of physical chemistry Proportionality constants, which in connection with the degree of occupancy of the surface. Without the exact could know, however, scientific background the occupancy rate of the surface with an adsorption probability related polymers of the invention. Define the adsorption probability as the product from the cationic charge density and molecular weight, this product may be used for the targeted selection of suitable inventive polymers become.
  • suitable Polymers for the product are from the cationic charge density and the molecular weight is greater than 100,000 on. Particularly suitable are polymers which are suitable for this Product have a value of at least 200,000. Most notably suitable are those polymers in which this product a Value greater than 250,000. Most appropriate are those polymers in which this product has a value of at least 1,000,000.
  • Prefers are those polymers that have sufficient solubility in water or alcohol to in the inventive Means at the time of going completely into solution.
  • The cationic polymers can be homo- or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups in either the Polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more the monomers are contained. The ammonium group-containing monomers can be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers be. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, radically polymerizable compounds which contain at least one carry cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as Pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. As alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon Salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower Alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, especially preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • The Ammonium group-containing monomers can not with be cationized cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, Alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, Vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, z. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, where the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, particularly preferred are C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are, for example, the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamine noethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11) and quaternary silicone polymers or oligomers such as silicone polymers with quaternary end groups (Quaternium-80).
  • Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer.
  • Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I), - {CH 2 - [CR 1 COO- (CH 2 ) m N + R 2 R 3 R 4 ]} n X - (G1-I) in which R 1 = -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X - is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
    • - R 1 is a methyl group
    • - R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
    • - m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X - include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ® CR (3V Sigma) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C 1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ® SC.
  • Suitable cationic silicone compounds preferably have either at least one amino group or at least one ammonium group. Suitable silicone polymers having amino groups are known by the INCI name amodimethicones. These are polydimethylsiloxanes with aminoalkyl groups. The aminoalkyl groups may be side or terminal. The N-containing silicone as invented The cationic polymer according to the invention can preferably be selected from the group comprising siloxane polymers having at least one amino group, siloxane polymers having at least one terminal amino group, amodimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and / or aminoethylaminopropylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymer. Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are known by the INCI name Quaternium-80. These are dimethylsiloxanes having two terminal aminoalkyl groups.
  • According to the invention, preference is given to the use of an aminosiloxane corresponding to the following general formula (G1-II),
    Figure 00460001
    wherein R = OH or CH 3 ; X = alkyl group having 1 to 4 C atoms, preferably propyl or isopropyl, and A, B and C = copolymer units which can form tactical and / or atactic polymer blocks.
  • Amodimethicone, amodimethicone-containing emulsions or fluids are most preferred according to the invention. Emulsions which can preferably be used according to the invention are Dow Corning® 949, which is a cationic emulsion comprising amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 939, which is an emulsion containing amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride and trideceth-12; Dow Corning® 929, which is a cationic emulsion containing amodimethicone, talc trimonium chloride and nonoxynol-10; Dow Corning ® 7224 or 1401 based on trimethylsilylamodimethicone, octoxynol-40, Isolaureth-6, and glycol; Dow Corning ® 2-8194 Microemulsion (26%) are based on an amine functional silicone polymer; Dow Corning ® 2-8177 Microemulsion (12%) are based on an amine functional silicone polymer; Dow Corning ® 2-8566 Amino Fluid based on an amine functional polydimethylsiloxane; available from Dow Corning.
  • The Molecular weight of the aminosilicone is preferably between 500 and 100,000. The amine content (meq / g) is preferably in the range from 0.05 to 2.3, more preferably from 01 to 0.5.
  • The Silicone as cationic polymer according to the invention is in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-% based on the total Agent, preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 15 wt .-% and very particularly preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%.
  • Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula (G1-III) GOB-N + R a R b R c X - G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
    B is a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
    R a , R b and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , R b and R c is preferably not more than 20 is;
    X - is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
  • A cationic cellulose is sold under the name Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol ® and has the INCI designation Polyquaternium-10 degrees. Another cationic cellulose bears the INCI name Polyquaternium-24 and is sold under the trade name Polymer LM-200 by Amerchol. Other commercial products are the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat ® L and 200. The commercial products mentioned are preferred cationic celluloses.
  • Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Furthermore, particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives also from the company Hercules under the name N-Hance ® in the trade. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.
  • Another particularly suitable cationic natural polymer is hydrocolloids of the chitosan type. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight, which contain the - idealized - monomer unit (I):
    Figure 00480001
  • in the Contrary to most hydrocolloids, which are biological pH values are negatively charged, put chitosans under these conditions cationic biopolymers.
  • The positively charged chitosans can be counteracted charged surfaces interact and become therefore in cosmetic hair and body care products too used as a film former. In addition to chitosans, there are also quaternised, alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, optionally also in microcrystalline form. The insert can also be in Form of aqueous gels with a solids content in Range of 1 to 5 wt .-%.
  • to Chitosans are produced by chitin, preferably the Shell remnants of crustaceans made as inexpensive raw materials be available in large quantities. The chitin is usually first by adding deproteinated by bases, by addition of mineral acids demineralized and finally by adding strong ones Bases are deacetylated, with molecular weights over one broad spectrum can be distributed.
  • In a preferred embodiment of the invention, particularly low-ash cationic biopolymers are used which are obtained by reacting
    • (a) treating fresh crustacean shells with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
    • (b) treating the resulting demineralized first intermediate with aqueous alkali hydroxide solution,
    • (c) again treating the resulting slightly deproteinized second intermediate with dilute aqueous mineral acid,
    • (d) finally treating the resulting decalcified third intermediate with concentrated aqueous caustic while deacetylating to a level of from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably from 0.15 to 0.25 mole of acetamide per mole of monomer unit, and
    • (e) optionally subjected to a pressure / temperature post-treatment to adjust the viscosity.
  • at the chitosans to be used according to the invention it is completely or partially deacetylated Chitins. The molecular weight of chitosan can via a be widely distributed, for example, from 20,000 to about 5 million g / mol. Suitable, for example, is a low molecular weight Chitosan with a molecular weight of 30,000 to 70,000 g / mol. Preferably, however, the molecular weight is over 100,000 g / mol, more preferably from 200,000 to 700,000 g / mol. The degree of deacetylation is preferably 10 to 99%, more preferably 60 up to 99%.
  • The Chitosans or chitosan derivatives are preferably in neutralized or partially neutralized form. The degree of neutralization for the chitosan or the chitosan derivative is preferably at least 50%, more preferably between 70 and 100%, based on the number of free base groups. As a neutralizing agent in principle all cosmetically acceptable inorganic or organic acids are used such as formic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, Lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, Hydrochloric acid u. a., Of which the Pyrrolidoncarbonsäure is particularly preferred.
  • A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®. It has a molecular weight of 300,000 to 700,000 g / mol and is 70 to 80% deacetylated. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. The contained chitosan has a molecular weight of about 200,000 to 300,000 g / mol and is deacetylated to 70 to 85%. Suitable chitosan derivatives are quaternized, alkylated or hydroxyalkylated derivatives, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxybutylchitosan. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
  • Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
    • - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686 .
    • - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
    • - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ® Guar and Jaguar ®,
    • - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® products 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoni trimethylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
    • - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ® 734 and Gafquat ® 755 commercially,
    • - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
    • - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
    • - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
    • - Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as a third monomer building commercially available, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS 110, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 available are.
  • Other cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ®, Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC and Chitolam ® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.
  • According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to the DE-PS 44 13 686 and polyquaternium-37 type polymers.
  • Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or Kerstin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, among cationic protein hydrolyzates quaternized amino acids and to understand their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropy l Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Kerstin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
  • All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.
  • The cationic polymers are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.
  • at the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic monomers that make up such polymers can, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups can be used in whole or in part as Sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt available. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective as the sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid contain, wherein the sulfonic acid group completely or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.
  • More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ® 11-80 is commercially.
  • Within In this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers from at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic Use monomer. Regarding the anionic monomers Reference is made to the substances listed above. preferred non-ionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, Methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is in the commercial product lake hedgehog ® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.
  • Also sold under the name Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
  • Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • The anionic polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Another very particularly preferred group of polymers are polyurethanes. The polyurethanes consist of at least two different monomer types,
    • A compound (V1) having at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and
    • - A di- or polyisocyanate (V2).
  • at the compounds (V1) may be, for example, diols, triols, Diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols act. there become the compounds with more than 2 active hydrogen atoms usually only in small amounts in combination with a large excess Compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms used.
  • Examples for compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1,2- and 1,3-propylene glycol, Butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and -propylene glycols, Copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane, Hexamethylenediamine and α, ω-diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides.
  • polyurethanes, in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols, may be preferred according to the invention. In particular, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols with molecular weights between 200 and 3000, especially between 1600 and 2500 have proved to be particularly suitable in individual cases.
  • polyesterols are usually by modification of the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.
  • When Compounds (V2) are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylenedi (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate.
  • Farther may be used in the invention Polyurethanes are still building blocks such as diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids. Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are especially suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids. With regard to the further components there is no fundamental restriction whether they are nonionic, anionic or cationic building blocks is.
  • In terms of Further information about the construction and production The polyurethane is expressly referred to the articles in the relevant reviews such as Römpps Chemie-Lexikon and Ullmanns Enzyklopadie der technischen Chemistry reference.
  • Polyurethanes which can be characterized as follows have proven particularly suitable according to the invention in many cases.
    • - Only aliphatic groups in the molecule
    • - no free isocyanate groups in the molecule
    • - Polyether and polyester polyurethanes
    • - anionic groups in the molecule.
  • It has also proved to be advantageous in some cases, if the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system, but instead is stably dispersed.
  • Farther it has proved to be suitable for the production of the invention Means proved to be advantageous if the polyurethanes are not direct mixed with the other components, but in the form of aqueous dispersions were introduced. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of about 20-50%, especially about 35-45% and are also commercially available.
  • An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ® PUR (BASF).
  • Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO - or -SO 3 - groups contained and combined such polymers containing -COOH or SO3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphoteric Polymers, like the cationic polymers, are very particular preferred polymers.
  • An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially
    • (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R 1 -CH = CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2n ) -N (+) R 3 R 4 R 5 A (-) (G 3 -I) in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A (-) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
    • (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R 6 -CH = CR 7 -COOH (G3-II) in which R 6 and R 7 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
  • These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.
  • suitable Starting monomers are z. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, Dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and Diethylaminoethylacrylamid, if Z is an NH group or Dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate, when Z is an oxygen atom.
  • The a tertiary amino group-containing monomers then quaternized in a known manner, using as alkylating reagents Methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate are particularly suitable. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous Solution or in the solvent.
  • advantageously, such monomers of the formula (G3-I) are used, the derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Further preferred are those monomers which, as counterions, are halide, methoxy sulfate or ethoxysulfate ions. Likewise preferred are those Monomers of the formula (G3-I) in which R3, R4 and R5 are methyl groups are.
  • The Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very special one preferred monomer of the formula (G3-I).
  • When monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (G3-II) are acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. Preference is given to acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular Acrylic acid, used.
  • The zwitterionic usable according to the invention Polymers are prepared from monomers of the formulas (G3-I) and (G3-II) prepared according to known polymerization. details Information on the polymerization process, the relevant Specialist literature be taken.
  • When Such polymers have proven particularly effective in which the monomers of the formula (G3-I) with respect to the monomers of the formula (G3-II) in excess. It is therefore preferred according to the invention, such polymers to be used, consisting of monomers of the formula (G3-I) and the monomers of the formula (G3-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 exist.
  • The amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Further inventively usable amphoteric polymers are those in the British Patent Application 2,104,091 , of the European Patent Application 47,714 , of the European Patent Application 217 274 , of the European Patent Publication 283,817 and the German Offenlegungsschrift 28 17 369 mentioned compounds. Further suitable zwitterionic polymers are Methacroylethylbetain / methacrylate copolymers, which are commercially available under the name Amersette ® (AMERCHOL).
  • The agents according to the invention can be used in one further embodiment nonionogenic polymers (G4).
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
    • - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred non-ionic polymers.
    • - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
    • - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
    • - shellac
    • - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ® (BASF).
    • - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
    • - Glycosidically substituted silicones.
  • The Nonionic polymers are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are special prefers.
  • According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, e.g. B. by special polymerization or by dissolution of the polymer in a solvent and spraying into a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Suitable polymers are z. As polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for. B. under the trademark Polytrap ® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, e.g. Based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are having a particle size of 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m 2 / g under the trade name Orgasol ® 2002 DU Nat Cos (Atochem SA , Paris) available. Other spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. NIKKOL's polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) or NIKKOL's (Plastic Powder A) copolymers, NIKKOL's styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP), AKZO's polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400), or also Silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powders.
  • The Polymer powders described above are in the inventive Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included. Amounts from 0.1 to 5 Wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • polymers can be independent of their chemical structure and charge even after their function in cosmetic compositions be characterized. The description of the polymers according to their function in the compositions of the invention not necessarily a rating or meaning of this Polymers. Rather, all polymers are in principle equivalent for use in the invention See compositions, although some of these polymers may be preferred. Furthermore, some polymers can be found due to the polyfunctionality of polymers in several Descriptions of different effects again. polymers which can cause several desired effects are therefore particularly preferred for use in the invention Compositions.
  • The Choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use the composition of the invention.
  • There Polymers are often multifunctional, their Functions are not always clearly and clearly separated from each other become. In particular, this applies to film-making and festifying Polymers. Nevertheless, some film-forming polymers are described by way of example become. However, it is explicitly referred to here that in the context of the present invention both film-forming and Firming polymers are essential. Because both properties are not completely independent from each other, are under the term "fixing polymers" always "film-forming Polymers "understood and vice versa.
  • To the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers counts the film formation. Among film-forming polymers are such polymers to understand which while drying a continuous film on the Skin, hair or nails. such Filmbildner can in the most different cosmetic Products such as face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, Hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes be used. Particularly preferred are those polymers which sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be included in the agent according to the invention the application in completely dissolved form. Due to its pronounced property of film formation these polymers are in the agents according to the invention very particularly preferred. The use of at least one of these Polymers is therefore also completely according to the invention particularly preferred. The film-forming polymers can be of synthetic or natural origin.
  • Under Film-forming polymers are further inventively such Polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution are able to transparent on the skin or hair To deposit polymer film. The film-forming polymers can both anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • suitable synthetic, film-forming, setting polymers are homo- or Copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers are: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such. B. vinyl acetate, Vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, Alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, Propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups are.
  • Suitable z. B. homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, fixing polymers are, for. B. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Akypomine ® P 191 from CHEM-Y, Emmerich, or Seeigel ® 305 from Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ® from DuPont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, Ucon ® Union Carbide sold under the trade names. Particularly preferred are polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers.
  • Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for. B. cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso SI ® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg.
  • Examples of common film formers are Abies Balsamea (Balsam Canada) Resin, Acetylenediurea / Formaldehyde / Tosylamide Crosspolymer, Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer , Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Behenyl Methacrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylates / HEMA / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Ethyl Hex yl Acrylates / Styrene Copolymer, Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Propyl Trimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / TDI / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylates / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylates / Diacetones Acrylamide / Hydroxypropyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Adipic Acid / CHDM / MA / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylene Glycol / Glycerol Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dilinoleic Acid / Hexylene Glycol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer , Adipic Acid / Fuma Acid / Phthalic Acid / Tricyclodecane Dimethanol Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Albumen, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Aminoethyl Acrylates Phosphate / Acrylates Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Alginates, Ammonium Polyacrylates, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, AMPD Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, Astragalus gum gum, Avena sativa (Oat) kernels l Protein, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Benzoguanamine / Formaldehyde / Melamine Crosspolymer, Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Pentaerythritol / Neopentyl Glycol / Palmitic Acid Copolymer, Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amine Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Bis-PEG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-PPG-15 Dimethicone / IPDI Copolymer, Bis-Stearyl Dimethicone, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, 1,4-Butanediol / Succinic Acid / Adipic Acid / HDI Copolymer, Butoxy Chitosan, Butyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Styrene Copolymer, Butylated Polyoxymethylene Urea, Butylated PVP, Butyl Benzoic Acid / Phthalic Anhydride / Trimethylolethane Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer , Butylethylpropanediol Dimer Dilinoleate, Butyl Methacrylate / DMAPA Acrylates / Vinylacetamide Crosspolymer, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, C5-6 Alkanes / Cycloalkanes / Terpene Copolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone / Polycyclohexenes Oxide Crosspolymer, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitosan Succinamide, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer, Cellulose Acetates, Cellulose Acetate Butyrates, Cellulose Acetate Propionate, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chitosan, Chitosan Adipate, Chitosan Ascorbate, Chitosan Formats, Chitosan Glycolate, Chitosan Lactate, Chitosan PCA, Chitosan Salicylate, Chitosan Succinamide, C5-6 Olefin / C8-10 Naphtha Olefin Copolymer , Collodion, Copaifera Officinalis (Balsam Copaiba) Resin, Copal, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Corn Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, DEA-Styrene / Acrylate / DVB Copolymer, Dibutylhexyl IPDI, Didecyltetradecyl IPDI, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Diethylhexyl IPDI, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Diglycol / Isophthalate / SIP Copolymer, Dihydroxyethyl Tallowamine / IPDI Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Glycol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleyl Alcohol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethicone PEG-8 Polyacrylates, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethico nol / IPDI Copolymer, Dimethylamine / Ethylene Diamine / Epichlorohydrin Copolymer, Dioctyldecyl IPDI, Dioctyldodecyl IPDI, Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Calcium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / Magnesium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Methacrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylene / Zinc Acrylate Copolymer, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract, Fibroin / PEG-40 / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Flexible Collodione, Formaldehyde / Melamine / Tosylamide Copolymer, Galactoarabinane, Glycereth-7 Hydroxystearate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyc erin / MA / Rosin Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer, Glycerol / Phthalic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glycerol / Succinic Acid Copolymer Castorate, Glyceryl Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Glyceryl Undecyl Dimethicone, Glycidyl C8-11 Acidate / Glycerin / Phthalic Anhydride Copolymer, Glycol Rosinate, Gutta Percha, Hexylene Glycol / Neopentyl Glycol / Adipic Acid / SMDI / DMPA Copolymer, Hydrogenated Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Hydrogenated Caprylyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Decyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Hexyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Lauryl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrogenated Rosin, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Gadidae Protein, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silaneetr iol Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylate / Butyl Acrylate Copolymer , Hydroxyethyl / Methoxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Acetate / Succinate, Hydroxypropyl Oxidized Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Isobutyl Methacrylate / Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isomerized Linoleic Acid, Isophorone Diamine / Cyclohexylamine / Isophthalic Acid / Azelaic Acid Copolymer, Isophorone Diamine / Isophthalic Acid / Pentaerythritol Copolymer, Isophorone Di amine / isophthalic acid / trimethylolpropane copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, 4,4'-isopropylidenediphenol / epichlorohydrin copolymer, lauryl acrylate / VA copolymer, lauryl methacrylate / glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, maltodextrin, mannan, Melia Azadirachta Conditioned Media / Culture, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Propyltrimethoxysilane, Methoxypolyoxymethylene Melamine, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Methacrylate / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Myroxylon Balsamum (Balsam Tolu) Resin, Myroxylon Pereirae (Balsam Peru) Resin, Nitrocellulose, Nylon 12/6/66 Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Octylacrylamides / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Oxymethylene / Melamine Copolymer, Palmitic Acid / Pentaerythritol / Stearic Acid / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylate Copolymer, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Pentaerythritol / Terephthalic Acid Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Cyclohexane Dicarboxylate, Perfluorononylethyl Stearyl Dimethicone , Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Phthalic Acid Denatured With Epoxy Resin Alkyd Resin, Phthalic Anhydride / Adipic Acid / Castor Oil / Neopentyl Glycol / PEG-3 / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Glycerol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Benzoic Acid / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Trimellitic Anhydride / Glycol Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene Copolymer, Piperylene / Butene / Pentene / Pentadiene Copolymer, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum , Polianthes Tuberosa Extract, polyacrylamides, polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, sulfonic acid, polyacrylates-1, polyacrylates-2, polyac rylate-5, polyacrylate-6, polyacrylic acid, polyamide-1, polybeta-alanine, polybeta-alanine / glutaric acid crosspolymer, polybutyl acrylate, polybutylene terephthalate, polychlorotrifluo roethylene, polydiethylene glycol adipate / IPDI copolymer, polydimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, polyester-1, polyester-2, polyester-3, polyethylacrylate, polyethylene, polyethylene naphthalate, polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylglutamate, polyethylmethacrylate, polyglucuronic acid, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate / IPDI copolymer, polyisobutenes, Polylysines, polymethacrylamides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polymethacrylic acid, polymethyl acrylates, polymethylglutamates, polymethyl methacrylates, polyoxyisobutylenes / methylene urea copolymer, polyoxymethylene melamines, polypentaerythrityl terephthalates, polypentenes, polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, poly-p-phenylenes terephthalamides, polyphosphorylcholines glycol acrylates, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium -2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15 , P olyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-31, polyquaternium 32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-43, Polyquaternium-44, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-51, Polyquaternium-56, Polyquaternium-57, Polyquaternium-61, Polysilicone-6, Polysilicone-8, Polysilicone-11, Polysilicone-14, Polystyrene, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-2, Polyurethane-4, polyurethane-5, polyurethane-6, polyurethane-7, polyurethane-8, polyurethane-10, polyurethane-11, polyurethane-12, polyurethane-13, polyvinyl acetal, diethylaminoacetates, polyvinyl acetates, polyvinyl alcohol, Polyvinyl Chloride, Polyvinyl Imidazo Polyvinyl Isobutyl Ether, Polyvinyl Laurate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether, Potassium Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Potassium Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Potassium Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-26 / HDI Copolymer, PPG-17 / IPDI / DMPA Copolymer, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-7 / Succinic Acid Copolymer, PPG-26 / TDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Tocophereth-30, PPG-20 Tocophereth-50, Propylene Glycol Diricinoleate / IPDI Copolymer, Pseudotsuga Menziesii (Balsam Oregon) Resin, Pullulan, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP, PVP montmorillonite, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Quaternium-22, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin, Rubber Latex, Serum Albumin, Shellac, Sodium Acrylates / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates / C10- 30 alkyl acrylates Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium DVB / Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium MA / Diisobutylene Copolymer, Sodium MA / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium PG-Propyldimethicone Thiosulfate Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Diethylaminoethyl Ether, Stearamidopropyl Dimethicone, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Stearoyl Epoxy Resin, Stearyl HDI / PEG-50 Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, St yrax Benzoin Gum, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Styrene / Allyl Benzoate Copolymer, Styrene / DVB Crosspolymer, Styrene / Isoprene Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymer, styrene / VA copolymer, styrene / VP copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose acetate isobutyrate / butyl benzyl phthalate / methyl methacrylate copolymer, sucrose benzoate / sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate Copolymer, TEA Acrylates / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, TEA Diricinoleates, TEA Diricinoleates / IPDI Copolymer, Terephthalic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Tetradecyloctadecyl Behenates, Tetradecyloctadecyl Myristates, Tetradecyloctadecyl Stearates, Titanium Isostearates, Tosylamides / Epoxy Resin, Tosylamide / Formaldehyde Resin, Tricontanyl PVP, Triethylene Glycol R Osinate, Trimethylol Propane, Cyclohexene Dicarboxylate, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Crosspolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Protein, Tromethamine Acrylate / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, VA / Butyl Maleate / Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / Crotonic Acid / PEG-20M Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Isobutyl Maleate / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Chloride Copolymer, Vinyl Acetate, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Vinyl Chloride / Vinyl Laurate Copolymer, VP / Dimethiconyl Acrylates / Polycarbamyl / Polyglycol Ester, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / dimethylaminoethylm ethacrylate / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / polycarbamyl polyglycol ester, VP / VA Co polymer, welan gum, yeast beta-glucan, yeast polysaccharides, zein.
  • After all the antistatic effect of polymers is another for cosmetic means essential function. With the help of electric Properties of these polymers are the surfaces of cosmetically treated substrates skin, nails and affects keratinic fibers in their electrical potential. For example, in hair care this way is called the "fly-away effect" designated and on the electrostatic repulsion of Hair fiber based effect diminished. But also on the skin surface In this way the skin feeling is influenced. Some of these polymers develop their optimal effect in a certain pH range. In the invention Compositions are those of this group of polymers preferably, which at the same time also at least one of the groups attributable to the fixing and / or film-forming polymers. Of course, the inventive Teach also the knowledge that in the invention Compositions also each at least one antistatic, at least a fixing and at least one film-forming polymer used can be. However, it is preferred to select the polymers such that at least one of the polymers is at least two of the desired Features.
  • Examples of such antistatic polymers are:
    Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylate Copolymer, AMP Isostearoyl Gelatin / Kerstin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Benzyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Caesalpinia Spinosa Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocamidopropyldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kerstin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Dimethicone Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride, Dimethicone Propylethylenediamine Behenate, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, Ditallow Dimonium Cellulose Sulfate, Gelatin / Kerstin Amino Acids / Lysine Hydroxypropyltrimonium C Hloride, Gelatin / Lysine / Polyacrylamides Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Beta-Glucan Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Whey, Laurendimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed J Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Wheat Amino Acids, Laur / Myrist / Palmitamidobutyl Guanidine Acetate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Hydrolyzed Collagen, Oleamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-2 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-10 Coco-Benzonium Chloride, PEG-2 Cocomonium Chloride, PEG-15 Cocomonium Chloride , PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocomonium Methosulfate, PEG-15 Cocopolyamine, PEG-9 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Dimeadowfoamamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Dioleoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-3 Distearoylamidoethylmonium Methosulfate, PEG-4 Distearylethonium Ethosulfate, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-8 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Tallow Amine , PEG-30 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Tallow Amines, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Tallowmonium Chlorides, PEG-5 Isodecyloxypropylamines, PEG-2 Lauramines, PEG-5 Oleamines, PEG-15 Oleamines, PEG -30 Oleamine, PEG-2 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-15 Oleammonium Chloride, PEG-12 Palmitamine, PEG-8 Palmitoyl Methyl Diethonium Methosulfate, PEG / PPG-1/25 Diethylmonium Chloride, PEG-2 Rapeseedamine, PEG-2 Soyamine, PEG -5 Soyamines, PEG-8 Soyamines, PEG-10 Soyamines, PEG-15 Soyamines, PEG-2 Stearamines, PEG-5 Stearamines, PEG-10 Stearamines, PEG-15 Stearamines, PEG-50 Stearamines, PEG-2 Stearmonium Chlorides, PEG-15 Stearmonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Chloride, PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactate, PEG-10 Stearyl Benzonium Chloride, PEG-6 Stearylguanidine, PEG-5 Tallow Amide, PEG-2 Tallow Amine, PEG-7 Tallow Amine, PEG-11 Tallow Amine, PEG-15 Tallow Amine, PEG-20 Tallow Amine, PEG- 25 tallow amines, PEG-3 tallow aminopropyl amines, PEG-10 tallow aminopropyl amines, PEG-15 Tallow Aminopropylamine, PEG-20 Tallow Ammonium Ethosulfate, PEG-5 Tallow Benzonium Chloride, PEG-15 Tallow Polyamine, PEG-3 Tallow Propylenedimonium Dimethosulfate, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride, PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride , Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium chlorides, polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium methosulfates, polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-12 , Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium -29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyq uaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-60, polysilicone-1, polyvinyl-imidazolinium Acetates, PPG-2 Cocamines, PPG-9 Diethylmonium Chlorides, PPG-25 Diethylmonium Chlorides, PPG-2 Hydrogenated Tallowamine, PPG-24-PEG-21 Tallowaminopropylamine, PPG-2 Tallowamine, PPG-3 Tallow Aminopropylamine , Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Propyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15, Quaternium-16, Quaternium-18, Quaternium-18 Methosulfate, Quaternium-22, Quaternium-24, Quaternium 26, Quaternium-27, Quaternium-30, Quaternium-33, Quaternium-43, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51, Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, Quaternium-56, Quaternium-60, Quaternium-61, Quaternium-63, Quaternium-70, Quaternium-71, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-73, Quaternium-75 , Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-77, Quaternium-78, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-81, Quaternium-82, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-86, Quaternium-88, Quaternium-89, Quaternium-90, Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen ethosulfates , Trigonella Foenum-Graecum Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Wheat Germamidopropyl Epoxypropyldimonium Chloride, Wheatgermamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate.
  • Of course also include the emulsion-stabilizing polymers to the according to the invention preferred polymers. this includes are polymers to understand the construction and stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O as well as multiple emulsions) substantially support. Surfactants and emulsifiers are a matter of course the essential ingredients, however, bear the stabilizing Polymers by positively influencing the continuous or the disperse phase to reduce the coalescence of emulsified droplets. This positive influence can be on an electrical repulsion, an increase viscosity or filming on the droplet surface based. These properties of the polymers in question can also in the compositions according to the invention be particularly advantageously used to the inventive powdery compositions before and / or during use to dissolve the powder in water.
  • Examples of such polymers are Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Amino Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonium Phosphatidyl Rapeseedate, Ammonium Polyacrylate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Shellacate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Beeswax, Bentonite, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose , Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gu m, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Chitosan Lauroyl Glycinate, Cholesterol, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-3, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, C12 -14 Sec-Pareth-7, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-8, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-9, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-12, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-15, C12-14 Sec-Pareth -20, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-30, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-40, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-50, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Beeswax, Hydrolyzed Candelilla Wax, Hydrolyzed Carnauba Wax, Hydrolyzed Collagen PG-Propyl Dimethiconol, Hydrolyzed Sunflower Seed Wax, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxyethyl Isostearyloxy Isopropanolamine, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lanolin, Lanolin Alcohol, Magnesium Alginate, Maltodextrin, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methylcellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Microcrystalline Wax, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ozokerites , Pectin, p EG-350, PEG-400, PEG-500, PEG-12 Carnauba, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-6 Hydrogenated Palmamide, PEG-100 / IPDI Copolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG-90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones, PEG / PPG-23/6 dimethicones, PEG / PPG-8/3 laurates, PEG / PPG-10/3 oleyl ether dimethicones, polyacrylic acid, polyethylenes, polyethylenes / isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate / IPDI Copolymer, Polypropylene Terephthalate, Polysilicone-16, Polyvinyl Acetate, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Dextrin Octenyl Succinate, Potassium Polyacrylate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Alginate, Potassium Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Potassium Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-5, P PG-5 C12-14 sec-pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14 sec-pareth-9, PPG-2 tocophereth-5, PPG-5 tocophereth-2, PPG-10 tocophereth-30, PPG-20 tocophereth- 50, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / Decene Copolymer, PVP Montmorillonite, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fiber, Saccharated Lime, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer , Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Dextran, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate , Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Alginate, Sodium / TEA Undecylenoyl Carrageenan, Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearylvinyl Eth er / MA Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Polypalmate, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Wax, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, TEA Alginates, TEA Dextrin Octenylsuccinate, Undecylenoyl Inulin, Undecylenoyl Xanthan Gum, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Undecylenoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
  • polymers can change the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases in cosmetic preparations increase. In aqueous phases based their the viscosity-increasing function on their solubility in water or its hydrophilic nature. They are both surfactant as well as used in emulsion-shaped systems. Also this property of the polymers is in the invention Means before and / or during the application of advantage.
  • The following are some examples of typical polymeric thickeners for aqueous systems:
    Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Ceteth- 20 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Laureth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-50 Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Agar, Agarose, Alcaligenes Polysaccharides, Algin, Alginic Acid, Ammonium Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Vinyl Formamide Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Ammonium Alginate, Ammonia Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Amylopectin, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Attapulgite, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Bentonite, Butoxy Chitosan, Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum, Calcium Alginate, Calcium Carboxymethyl Cellulose, Calcium Carrageenan, Calcium Potassium Carbomer, Calcium Starch Octenylsuccinate , C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Carbomer, Carboxybutyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Chitin, Carboxymethyl Chitosan, Carboxymethyl Dextran, Carboxymethyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carboxymethyl Hydroxypropyl Guar, Cellulose Acetate Propionate Carboxylate, Cellulose Gum, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Cholesterol / HDI / Pullulan Copolymer, Cholesteryl Hexyl Dicarbamate Pullulan, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum, Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-2, Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine, DMAPA Acrylates / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogens Co Polymer, Ethylene / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Gelatin, Gellan Gum, Glyceryl Alginate, Glycine Soybean (Soybean) Flour, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hydrated Silica, Hydrogenated Potato Starch, Hydroxybutyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Chitosan, Hydroxyethyl Ethyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Ethylene Diamine Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Guar, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Xanthan Gum, Hydroxystearamide MEA, Isobutylene / Sodium Maleate Copolymer, Lithium Magnesium Silicate, Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate, Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp), Magnesium Alginate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Magnesium Silicate, Magnesium Trisilicate, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Cellulose, Methyl Ethyl Cellulose, Methyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Montmorillonite, Moroccan Lava Clay, Natto Gum, Nonoxynyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Pectin, PEG-800, PEG Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-175 Diisostearate, PEG-190 Distearate, PEG-15 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-140 glyceryl tristearate, PEG-240 / HDI copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, PEG-100 / IPDI copolymer, PEG-180 / Laureth-50 / TMMG copolymer, PEG-10 / lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer , PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-2M, PEG-5M, PEG-7M, PEG-9M, PEG-14M, PEG-20M, PEG-23M, PEG-25M, PEG-45M, PEG-65M, PEG -90M, PEG-115M, PEG-160M, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleates, PEG-180 / Octoxynol-40 / TMMG Copolymer, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearates, PEG-4 Rapeseedamides, PEG-150 / Stearyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylates-3, Polyacrylic Acid, Polycyclopentadienes, Polyether-1, Polyethylenes / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolyol, Polymethacrylic Acid, Polyquaternium-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Potassium Alginate, Potassium Aluminum P Polyacrylates, Potassium Carbomer, Potassium Carrageenan, Potassium Polyacrylates, Potato Starch Modified, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamates, PPG-14 Laureth-60 Isophoryl Dicarbamates, PPG-14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamates, Propylene Glycol Alginates, PVP / Decene Copolymer , PVP Montmorillonite, Rhizobian Gum, Ricinoleic Acid / Adipic Acid / AEEA Copolymer, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Acrolein Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylates / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Sodium Carboxymethyl Chitin, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sodium Carrageenan, Sodium Cellulose Sulfates, Sodium Cyclodextrin Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Sodium Polyacrylates, Sodium Polyacrylates Starch, Sodium Polyacryl Oyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polymethacrylate, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Sodium Silicoaluminate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Stearoxy PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Sodium Styrene / Acrylate Copolymer, Sodium Tauride Acrylate / Acrylic Acid / Acrylonitrogen Copolymer, Solanum Tuberosum (Potato) Starch, Starch / Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer, Sterculia Urens Gum, Synthetic Fluorophlogopite, Tamarindus Indica Seed Gum, Tapioca Starch, TEA Alginate, TEA Carbomer, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Starch, Tromethamine Acrylates / Acrylonitrogens Copolymer, Tromethamine Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Welan Gum, Xanthan Gum, Yeast Beta Glucan, Yeast Polysaccharides, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch.
  • A Another way to increase the viscosity of cosmetic products is the thickening of non-aqueous Phase, the lipid phase of the cosmetic products. These are polymers used, which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids are. They are also used for gelation of cosmetic Agents with high lipid levels used. This also contributes essential to the excellent application of the invention Agent at.
  • The following are some of these polymers listed:
    Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Adipic Acid / PPG-10 Copolymer, Allyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Alumina Magnesium Metasilicate, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Beeswax, Behenyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bispolyethylene Dimethicone, Butadiene / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Butylene / Ethylene Copolymer , Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Butylene Glycol Montanate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), C29-70 Acid, C23-43 Acid Pentaerythritol Tetraester, C20-24 Alkyl Dimethicone, C24-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, C1-5 Alkyl Galactomannan, C18 -38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, C20-24 Alkyl Methicone, C24-28 Alkyl Methicone, C30-45 Alkyl Methicone, Candelilla Wax Hydrocarbons, C10-30 Cholesterol / Lanosterol Esters, Cellobiose Octanonanoate, Ceresin, Cerotic Acid, Cetearyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer , Chlorinated Paraffin, Cholesterol, Cholesteryl Acetate, Cholesteryl Hydroxystearate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Macadamiate, Cholesteryl Stearates, C10-40 Hydroxyalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Cholesterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Octyldodecanol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Phytosterol Esters, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglycerides, C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer, Copal, Corn Starch Modified, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, C6-14 Polyolefin, Decene / Butene Copolymer, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dilinoleic Acid / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Sebacic Acid / Piperazine / Ethylenediamine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Divinyl Dimethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dodecanedioic Acid / Cetearyl Alcohol / Glycol Copolymer, Ethyl Cellulose, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylene / Acrylic Acid / VA Copolymer, Ethylenediamine / Dimer Tallate Copolymer Bis-Hydrogenated Tallow Amide, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Ethylene Diamine / Stearyl Dimer Tallate Copolymer, Ethylene / Octene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene Copolymer, Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Hydrogenated Butylene / Ethylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Ethylene / Propylene / Styrene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Japan Wax, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Hydrogenated Styrene / Butadiene Copolymer, Hydrogenated Styrene / Methyl Styrene / Indene Copolymer, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Isobutylene / Isoprene Copolymer, Lithium Oxidized Polyethylene, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Methyl Styrene / Vinyl Tolene Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Montan Acid Wax, Montan Wax, Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry) Fruit Wax, Nylon 611 / Dimethicone Copolymer, Octadecenes / MA Copolymer, Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic Polyglycerides, Ouricury Wax, Oxidized Beeswax, Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Oxidized Polyethylene, Oxidized Polypropylene, Ozokerite, Paraffin, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-58 Hydroge Naked Castor Oil Isostearate, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-15 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-20 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Triisostearate, PEG-5 Lanolinamide, PEG-5 Oleamide Dioleate, Phthalic Anhydride / Butyl Benzoic Acid / Propylene Glycol Copolymer, Phthalic Anhydride / Glycerol / Glycidyl Decanoate Copolymer, Phthalic anhydrides / trimellitic anhydrides / glycol copolymers, piperylenes / butenes / pentenes copolymers, polybutenes, polybutylenes terephthalates, polycyclopentadienes, polydipentenes, polyethylenes, polyethyleneterephthalates, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates, polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates, Polyisobutenes, polyisoprenes, polypentenes, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoromethyl dis Tearamide, Polypropylene, Polysilicone-4, Polysilicone-5, Polysilicone-17, Polystyrene, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinyl Laurate, Potassium Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Potassium PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Succinate, PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer, PVP / Decene Copolymer, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax, Rosin, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Wax, Sodium PVM / MA / Decadiene Crosspolymer, Spent Grain Wax, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer, Steareth-60 Cetyl Ether, Stearoxymethicone / Dimethicone Copolymer, Stearyl Methacrylate / Perfluorooctylethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / Methacrylamide / Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic Beeswax, Synthetic Candelilla Wax, Synthetic Carnauba, Synthetic Japan Wax, Synthetic Wax, TDI Oxidized Microcrystalline Wax, Tricontanyl PVP, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Trifluoropropyl Divinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Trifluoropropyl Di Methicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Trimethylpentanediol / Isophthalic Acid / Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymer, Trimethylsiloxysilicate / Dimethiconol Bulk Polymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, VP / Eicosene Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer Of course, microparticles may also be included in the composition of the present invention filled or unfilled, both to achieve certain effects, such as the release of an active ingredient from the capsules or the achievement of particular visual, esthetic effects of the overall formulation. In this case, it may be particularly advantageous when polymers are incorporated as suspending aids. Suspension aids facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Here, the polymers occupy the surface of the solid particles by adsorption and thereby change the surface properties of the solids. The following are examples of these polymers:
    Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Methoxy PEG-15 Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene / Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylates Copolymer, Bentonites, Biotites, Calcium Lignosulfonates , Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, C6-14 Perfluoroalkylethyl Acrylate / HEMA Copolymer, Diallyloxyneohexyl Zirconium Tridecanoate, Dihydrogenated Tallow Benzylmonium Hectorite, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol / Stearyl Methicone / Phenyl Trimethicone Copolymer, Dimethylol Urea / Phenol / Sodium Phenolsulfonate Copolymer, Disodium Methylene Dinaphthalenesulfonates, Disteardimonium Hectorites, Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearoyl Hydroxystearate, Hectorite, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyl Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1000, Hydroxyethyl PEI-1500, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolym he, isobutylene / MA copolymer, isopropyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer, maltodextrin, methacryloyl ethyl betaine / acrylates Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-17 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Methoxy PEG-22 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, Myristoyl / PCA Chitin, Nitrocellulose, PEG-18 Castor Oil Dioleate, PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer, PEI-7, PEI-10, PEI-15, PEI-30, PEI-35, PEI-45, PEI-250, PEI-275, PEI-700, PEI-1000, PEI-1400, PEI-1500, PEI-1750, PEI-2500, PEI-14M, Perfluorononyl Octyldodecyl Glycol Meadowfoamate, Perlite, Phosphonobutanetricarboxylic Acid, Polyacrylamidomethylpropanes, Sulfonic Acid, Polycaprolactones, Polyethylacrylates, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy PEG-2 Phosphates, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetates , Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Neoheptanoate, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, Quaternium-18 Bentonite, Quaternium-18 / Benzalkonium Bentonite, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Rhizobian Gum, Silica, Silica Dimethicone Silylates, Silica Dimethyl Silylates, Silica Silylates , Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid / MA Copolymer, Sodium C4-12 Olefin / Maleic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sodium Dimaltodextrin Phosphate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphate, Sodium Isooctylene / MA Copolymer, Sodium Magnesium Fluorosilicates, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chlorides, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Stearyl Vinyl Ether / MA Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Acrylonitrile Copolymer, Styrene / Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Styrene / MA Copolymer, Sucrose Benzoate / Sucrose Acetates Isobutyrate / Butyl Benzyl phthalate copolymer, tosylamide / epoxy resin, tosylamide / formaldehyde resin, VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, VP / eicosene copolymer, VP / hexadecene copolymer, VP / VA copolymer.
  • It It is also possible according to the invention that the used preparations several, in particular two different Polymers of the same charge and / or one ionic and one each containing amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • It may also be advantageous in a preferred embodiment be at least one avivating and / or at least one film-making, consolidating polymer and / or at least one thickening polymer formulate. Among polymers are both natural and also synthetic polymers which are anionic, cationic, amphoteric charged or non-ionic. So the polymer (G) according to the invention can be both a setting and / or film-forming polymer as well as a polymer with conditioning or scavenging and / or thickening properties be.
  • The Polymers (G) are used in the invention Compositions preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included. Amounts from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • The The following ingredients additionally contribute to the achievement and further increase the inventive Effects at.
  • With particular advantage include the inventive Compositions fatty substances (D) as another active ingredient. Through this Composition are increased amounts of the active ingredients deposited on the hair or skin, resulting in a synergistic increase Effects. This effect is through the further Use of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers as a deposition aid in the compositions according to the invention clearly increased. There is a change the charge of the surface, which for example by the measurement of the so-called Wilhelmy voltage can be measured.
  • Under Fatty substances (D) are to be understood fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which are both solid Form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion can exist, and natural and synthetic understand cosmetic oil components.
  • As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenur ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenur ® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings, which from coconut oil or Palm oil are available; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • The Use amount is 0.1-15 wt .-%, based on the entire means. The amount is preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, with very particularly advantageous amounts of 1-5 Wt .-% can be.
  • As fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 -C 30 -, preferably C 10 -C 22 - and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22 -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® , z. B. Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ®, z. B. Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, z. B. Lorol® ® C8, Lorol® ® C14, C18 Lorol® ®, ® Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ®, z. B. Crodacol CS ®, ® Novol, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.
  • When natural or synthetic waxes (D3) can solid paraffins are used according to the invention or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, Ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes like For example, apple wax or citrus wax, micro waxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the company Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • The Use amount is 0.1-50 wt .-% based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.1-15 wt .-% based on the total agent.
  • The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example:
    • - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
    • Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
    • - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate (Rilanit ® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprate / caprylate ( Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B) myristyl myristate (Cetiol ® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ® V).
    • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
    • Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
    • Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
    • - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-1),
      Figure 00860001
      in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • When natural oils come for example amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, Thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, Elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, Cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, Almond oil, Marula oil, Evening primrose oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn oil, Sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, Sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil or Rosehip Oil.
  • The following table shows the average wages in% by weight of fatty acids of some of the oils according to the invention. Since the listed values are average values of the respective fatty acids, the sum of all fatty acids can also be greater or less than 100%. Of course, the effective values fluctuate more or less around these averages. Table 1: Fatty Acid Salaries of Oils oil Palmitic acid (C16: 0) Palmitoleic acid (C16: 1) Stearic acid (C18: 0) Oleic acid (C18: 1) Linoleic acid (C18: 2) Linolenic acid (C18: 3) squalene Amaranth seed oil + 18 - 3 25 40 - 8th Apricot kernel oil 6 1 1 62 27 - - Argan oil + 12 - 5 45 35 - - avocado oil - 18 - 60 12 - - babassu 8th - 2 14 3 - - cottonseed 24 1 3 18 53 - - Borage seed oil + 11 - 4 17 38 21 - Camelina oil 6 - 3 19 16 38 Thistle oil + 7 0.2 3 15 75 - - Peanut oil + 10 4 41 36 - - Pomegranate seed oil 10 - 6 19 17 66 - Grapefruit seed oil + 8th 0.5 5 18 70 0.5 Hemp oil + 7 - 2 10 57 21 - Hazelnut oil + 5 - 2 75 15 - - Elderberry seed oil + 7 - 2 12 42 35 - Currant seed oil + 7 - 1 13 44 27 - jojoba oil 3 1 - 10 - - - Cocoa butter + 26 - 35 35 3 - - linseed oil 5 0.5 4 22 17 52 - macadamia nut oil 9 19 3 60 2 - - Corn oil 13 0.5 2 31 50 2 - almond oil 8th 1 2 70 22 - - marula 11 - 7 75 4 - - Evening primrose oil + 7 - 2 7 71 10 - olive oil 12 1 3 73 10 - 3 Palm oil + 42 5 41 10 - - rapeseed oil 4 1 60 20 9 - rice oil 42 37 4 Sea buckthorn oil 33 35 1 26 7 2 - Sea buckthorn seed oil 8th - 2 21 34 30 - Sesame oil + 11 - 4 39 42 - - shea butter - - 40 48 - - - Soybean oil + 10 5 21 53 8th Sunflower oil + 6 4 28 61 - - Tea seed oil 65-85 Grapeseed oil + 7 - 3 25 63 - - Walnut oil + 8th - 3 17 60 12 Wheat germ oil 16 - 1 17 57 7 - Wild Rose Oil + 4 - 2 15 46 33 -
  • preferred Natural oils contain at least all fat printed fatty acids, palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid. Especially preferred natural oils The fatty acids contain palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid in a total amount of at least 50% by weight of fatty acids. A plus sign behind the respective oils in the above table, these are particularly preferred natural oils. All particularly preferred oils are still characterized by an additional content of squalene. Maximum preferred natural oils and their mixtures also have a proportion of linolenic acids.
  • Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that at least two of the natural oils listed in the above table can be mixed together. In this case, the However, natural oils are selected such that the sum of the fatty acids palmitic acid, stearic acid and linoleic acid results in at least 50% by weight of the sum of the total fatty acids. Preferred blends of the natural oils are amaranth seed oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, shea butter amaranth seed oil, camellina oil amaranth seed oil, amaranth seed oil with olive oil, amaranth seed oil with macadamia nut oil, olive oil with at least one sea buckthorn oil, camelina olive oil, shea butter olive oil, macadamia nut oil and at least one sea buckthorn oil, macadamia nut oil shea butter. However, more than three of the natural oils should not be mixed together.
  • Argan oil is one of the most preferred natural oils and is therefore intended to be described in more detail by way of example become. Argan oil itself has been known for a long time and is already widely used by humans. It applies as the most valuable vegetable oil, which is why it also "Das Gold the Berber "is called in. This is also the reason why it has not found wide use and therefore little about the interaction with other ingredients of cosmetic compositions is known.
  • Argan oil is the oil of the seed of the argan fruit. The argan tree, Argania Spinosa, is one of the oldest trees in the world. Fears with plum or olive-like Appearance can not be consumed. The tree can be several times bear fruit in the year. The wood, the leaves and the fruits are very valuable and are used. The date-sized fruits are dried and pressed. The kernels of the fruit are won. The cores are about three times as big as hazelnuts. The Cores are pitched to recover the seeds. These seeds are finally lightly roasted and ground to win the oil. Argan oil is slightly reddish and has a walnut-like taste. Argan oil is considered the most valuable vegetable oil. It is unusually rich in tocopherols and shows by all known vegetable oils the strongest vitamin E. Activity. Furthermore, argan oil has a unique high concentration of unsaturated fatty acids of more than 80 wt .-%. This makes argan oil an excellent one suitable cooking oil and dietary supplements. And also in cosmetic compositions is argan oil due to its high content of vitamin E and unsaturated Used fatty acids. The meaning of argan oil continues to be based on the unique argan oil Sterols, in particular Schottenol and spinasterol. Argan oil contains from tocopherol per 100 g of oil about 50 to 90 mg of tocopherols, composed as follows: approx. 40 up to 60 mg □ -tocopherol, about 5 to 15 mg β-tocopherol, about 5 to 10 mg of □ -tocopherol and about 0.5 to 5 mg of □ -tocopherol. The Ratio of unsaturated to saturated Fatty acids in argan oil is about 4.5: 1. The amount of sterols in argan oil is about 120 to 250 mg / 100 g of oil. The content of fatty acids is more than 99 wt .-%, of which more than 80 wt .-% unsaturated are. The fatty acid composition is approximately as follows: Palmitic acid 12 to 13%, stearic acid 5 to 7% and arachidonic acid 0.3 to 0.5% and the unsaturated Fatty acids oleic acid 43 to 49.1%, linoleic acid 23.9 to 36.0%, linoleic acid to 0.1% and gadoleic acid up to 0.5%. The amount of linoleic acid is in argan oil about three times higher than olive oil.
  • Argan oil is traditionally used for cooking and in cosmetic compositions used. The North Africans use argan oil for rubbing the skin before visiting a steam bath. It penetrates quickly in the skin and leaves a pleasant and soft skin feeling. Argan oil prevents the skin from drying out and aging before and also finds use for preventing itching. In the Hair care gets it on brittle and dry hair as well recommended for hair loss.
  • One Another preferred natural oil is Amaranth seed oil. Amaranth seed oil can easily be used in hair cleansing and -care agents are incorporated. In these compositions incorporated the treated hair remains with more shine as well as improved care properties, in particular improved Combing properties, more shine and an improved grip. In particular, it has been found that a hair cleanser on the Basis of amaranth seed oil with minimal amounts of solubilizer, while comparable other oils one clearly need higher amount of solubilizers, to a stable incorporation of the oil in the shampoo too guarantee. For example, can be the amaranth seed oil at a certain concentration at solubilizer stable and clear into a shampoo while working numerous other natural oils a phase separation exhibit.
  • The lipid fraction of the amaranth seeds consists essentially of triglycerides. In addition to oil and palmitic acid, linoleic acid is the main component in the fatty acid distribution of the oil. Myristic acid, stearic acid, vaccenic acid, α-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, 11-eicosenoic acid and behenic acid are also present in the fatty acid spectrum. Particularly noteworthy, however, is a particularly high proportion of squalene (6-12%) in amaranth seed oil, which is found in other conventional vegetable oils only in very low concentrations. In addition, the Amaranthsamenöl rich in many vitamin E derivatives (including α-, β-, γ- and δ-tocopherol and α- and β-tocotrienol) and has a remarkable proportion of the phytosterols Δ7-avenasterol, Δ7-campesterol, Δ7-sitosterol and Δ7-stigmasterol. An inventive ge suitable oil is available, for example, under the trade name "Amaranth Seed Oil" from the company Euro Ingredients.
  • shea butter should serve as another example of natural oils be described in more detail. Shea butter according to the invention by no means but solely in mixture with at least another natural oil used so that the total content of the fatty acids palmitic acid, Stearic acid and linoleic acid at least 50% by weight results.
  • Shea butter is similar to cocoa butter. Shea butter is obtained from the seeds of the butter tree found in West Africa, Vitellaria paradoxa or Butyrospermum parkii, Sapotacaeae. It is tough-buttery consistency and relatively stable to oxidation. Shea butter is used directly for food purposes in the producer countries. Shea butter is characterized by the following characteristics: saponification number 178 to 196, iodine value 55 to 67, unsaponifiable 2 to 11%. Shea butter has a melting range of 32 to 42 ° C. A characteristic ingredient is the sheasterin, 2-Oleo-distearin. The essential fatty acid composition is oleic acid 49 to 50%, stearic acid 35 to 42%, palmitic acid 5 to 6% and linoleic acid 4 to 5%. Due to the high proportion of unsaponifiable shea butter has a special status within the vegetable oils and fats. The proportion of unsaponifiable substances is usually only about 0.2 to 2% for vegetable fats. Therefore, the proportion of phytosterols in the shea butter is significantly higher than any other vegetable fats. Important representatives of the phytosterols of shea butter are, for example, α- and β-amyrin, Basseol, Parkeol and Lupeol. The structures of α- and β-amyrin are as follows:
    Figure 00910001
  • The structure of Lupeol is as follows:
    Figure 00920001
  • These Phytosterols of shea butter are all triterpenes with more than 15 C atoms. Finally, in the shea butter, too a proportion of waxes available.
  • shea butter is used in cosmetic compositions especially in care products used for the skin. However, it is also in some compositions for cleaning and care of keratin fibers.
  • In a most preferred embodiment, the compositions further contain squalene. Squalene is found in large quantities in shark fishes. In smaller quantities it is also found in some vegetable fats and oils. Squalene is also found in the natural lipid coat of keratinous fibers. Oils of the invention, which also contain squalene and are thus used most preferably according to the invention, can be found in Table 1 on the pages above. Squalene belongs to the triterpenes. The structure of squalene is shown in the following figure.
    Figure 00920002
    [(all-E) -2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyl-2,6,10,14,18,22-tetracosahexaene, spinacene]
  • In This most preferred drug combination is squalene in relation to the combination of fatty acids in used in an amount of 1: 1000. A ratio of 1: 100 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a squalene: fatty acid ratio from 1:50, most preferably 1:20 and highest preferably 1:10 and most preferred is a ratio from 1: 5.
  • The Use of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used in the invention is usually 0.1-30% by weight, based on the total agent, is preferred 0.1-20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1-15 wt .-%.
  • A last group of substances that can be used as fatty substances, are silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils (S) cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. But also the softness and the elasticity of the film, which is formed by film-forming polymers on the hair for the purpose of strengthening and styling, is positively influenced by silicones. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR 1 2 ) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiOHR 1 2 ) (S1-I) Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):
    Figure 00930001
  • The radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R 1 and R 2 is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R 1 and R 2 are methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -. Preferred as R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, as an aid for the preparation of the corresponding Emul Both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • If the dimethiconols according to the invention as emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethiconols that the Branching degree is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and very special preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, too the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched Dimethiconole very particularly be preferred.
  • When Examples of such products are the following commercial products called: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company, AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all of the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Elend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).
  • The Dimethiconols (S1) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the dimethiconols have their own phase in the compositions of the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition is immediate Homogenized by shaking briefly before use becomes. In this case, the amount of dimethiconol can be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition be.
  • Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR 1 3 ) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiR 1 3 ) (S2-I)
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):
    Figure 00960001
  • The radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R 1 and R 2 is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R 1 and R 2 are methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -. Preferred as R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicones can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 , This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.
  • If the Dimethicone invention as an emulsion are used, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is after determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Become used branched dimethicones, so to understand it that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicones that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferred is a degree of branching greater than 0.1%, and most preferably from greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching becomes thereby from the relationship of the unbranched monomers, the is the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicones entirely particularly preferred.
  • The Dimethicones (S2) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconone based on the composition.
  • According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethicones form a separate phase in the compositions according to the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition un indirectly before use by shaking homogenized briefly. In this case, the amount of dimethicone up to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR 1 3) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (Sirpe-O-) y - (SiR 1 3) (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR 1 2 ) -O- (SiR 2 2 -O-) x - (SiR 1 2 ) -PE (S3-II)
  • Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):
    Figure 00990001
    or by the structural formula (S3-IV):
    Figure 00990002
  • The radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R 1 and R 2 is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R 1 and R 2 are methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -. Preferred as R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, as an aid for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and Emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, refer to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.
  • If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention as Emulsion, then the droplet size is the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 microns to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 microns, completely more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • Become used branched dimethicone copolyols, it is to be understood as that the branching is greater than a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers happens by chance. For the purposes of the present invention is therefore to be understood by branched dimethicone copolyols that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Prefers is a degree of branching greater than 0.1% and whole more preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree The branching is thereby from the relationship of the unbranched Monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both low branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols be particularly preferred.
  • The Dimethicone copolyols (S3) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of Dimethiconcopolyol based on the composition.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the dimethicone copolyols have their own Phase in the compositions of the invention form. In this case, the amount of dimethicone copolyol can be up to to 40 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • Amino-functional Silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.
  • Such silicones may, for. By the formula (S4-I) M (R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2) x (R c SiO (4-c) / 2) y M (S4-I) in the above formula, R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, wherein R 1 is a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R 1 include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH 2 ) z (CH 2 ) zz NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amine functional group of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3. The molar ratio of the R a Q b SiO (4-ab) / 2 units to the R c SiO (4-c) / 2 units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are used, the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R 'a G 3-a -Si (OSiG 2) n - (OSiG b R' 2-b) m -O-SiG 3-a -R 'a (S4-II), contain, in which means:
    • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 ;
    • A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
    • B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
    • M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
    • - R 'is a monovalent radical selected from
    • • -N (R '') - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R '') 2
    • • -N (R '') 2
    • • -N + (R '') 3 A -
    • • -N + H (R '') 2 A -
    • • -N + H 2 (R '') A -
    • • -N (R '') - CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R''H 2 A - , wherein each R '' represents the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C 1 -20- alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -OH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)
    Figure 01040001
    in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
  • These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.
  • Agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.
    Figure 01040002
    in which R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • Independently of which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.
  • The Amodimethicones (S4) are in the inventive Compositions in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of amodimethicone based on the composition.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the amodimethicones have their own phase in the compositions of the invention. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.
  • Only recently, completely novel polyammonium polysiloxane compounds are known in which the siloxane substructures are optionally connected to each other via ammonium substructures. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic products are described, for example, in the published patent application WO 02/10257 described.
  • As a silicone, the compositions of the invention may contain at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:
    • a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA-, in which: A is one of the groups: -CH 2 C (O ) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH 2 -, -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, A - means: -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -, -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - and E represents a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas: [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] r - and / or - [OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2 ] r, - [OCH 2 CH 2 ] q -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH 2 group of the group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom group E each with formation of Bind ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide-stearic unit of the formula -AER 2 , wherein A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R 2 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical by -O-, or -C (O) may be interrupted and substituted with -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic,
    • a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,
    • a3) at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-, in which S is -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O- [Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] n -Si (R 1 ) 2 - and in which R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 - C 22 is fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when there are several groups S in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -hydrocarbon radical, represented by -O-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -O (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) - and -N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above, or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R 3 , and wherein R 3 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein K may be the same or different from each other, and in case K is a trivalent radical, the third valence is saturated via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group,
    • a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (s) ammonium group (s).
  • The Polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they are the components defined above a1) to a4). The polysiloxane compounds are thereby by binding of said structural units or radicals a1) to a3) formed together. Component a4) serves for neutralization the positive charges resulting from component a2).
  • The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can Be oligomeric or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds include the case described below, wherein the polysiloxane compound is just a repeating unit having.
  • polymers Polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are formed naturally by alternating linkage of divalent radicals.
  • in the Case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention the terminal atomic groupings result from the terminal atomic groupings of the starting materials used. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art.
  • In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric invention Polysiloxane compounds linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). Thus, the linear polymeric invention Polysiloxane compounds, in particular those from the repeat units formed linear polymeric backbone, by alternating stringing of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals, the contain at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are built up. This means, in addition, if necessary, in the structural components existing free valences (as with trivalent residues as Component a2) or in the case of trivalent radicals K) preferably do not serve the structure of polymeric side chains or polymeric Branches.
  • In a further embodiment, the main chain of the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can be built up from the organic radicals containing at least one ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane structural units a3), and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group radical. For example, the following structures can result: - (polyalkylene oxide structural unit-polysiloxane structural unit-polyalkylene oxide structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) x - - (Polysiloxanstruktureinheit - preferably quaternary ammonium group residue) x -Polyalkylenoxidstruktureinheit) x -
    Figure 01080001
  • Depending on the molar ratio of the monomeric starting compounds, polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure:
    (terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit-quaternary ammonium group-residual polysiloxane structural unit-quaternary ammonium group-terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit).
  • The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consist essentially of the com Components a1) to a4), wherein the polymeric polysiloxane according to the invention naturally have the resulting from the reaction of the monomeric starting materials terminal groups. However, it is also possible to use monofunctional chain terminators.
  • The polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas:
    -AE, -EA, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA act.
  • The rest A means:
    -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH 2 -, -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -OC (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -
  • The rest A 'means:
    -CH 2 C (O) -, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -H 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) -, -C (O) CH 2 -, -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 - and / or -C (O) CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -.
  • The polyalkylene oxide group E of the general formulas:
    - [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] r - and / or - [OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2 ] r - [OCH 2 CH 2 ] q with q = 1 or 2 up to 200 and r = 0 to 200, include all possible ethylene oxide / propylene oxide groups. Such may be random ethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymer groups or ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer groups with any arrangement of one or more ethylene oxide or propylene oxide blocks.
  • The attachment of the radicals A or A 'to the group E takes place in such a way that the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH 2 - group of the group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon atom of the group A' to the terminal oxygen atom each group E to form ester groups.
  • The polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) can furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER 2 in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R 2 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 - C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.
  • The component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group. The bond of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical. The term "divalent" or "trivalent" means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences. The ammonium radical is expediently represented by an NH 4 + group in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups. Preferably, it is a secondary or quaternary, more preferably a quaternary ammonium group. A quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH 4 + group are replaced by organic radicals.
  • The component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-, S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O [-Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] n -Si (R 1 ) 2 -, wherein R1 is C 1 -C 22 alkyl, C 1 -C 22 fluoroalkyl or aryl, preferably phenyl, n = 0 to 1000, and when there are several S groups in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different.
  • R 1 is preferably C 1 -C 18 alkyl, C 1 -C 18 fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 is preferably C 1 -C 18 -alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R 1 is preferably C 1 -C 6 alkyl, C 1 -C 6 fluoroalkyl, more preferably C 1 -C 4 fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R 1 is methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.
  • The term "C 1 -C 22 -alkyl" in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic Koh Hydrogen groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be straight or branched. Examples include methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, iso-propyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl listed.
  • The term "C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl" in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom, by way of example monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1- Trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl.
  • The term "aryl" in the context of the present invention means unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF 3 C 1 -C 6 -alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy, C 3 -C 7 -cycloalkyl C 2 C 6 alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.
  • K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N + (R 3 ) -, -NR 1 -, and -N + (R 1 ) (R 3 ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • "Interrupted" means that in the case of bivalent radicals -CH 2 - grouping in the case of the trivalent radicals a -CH- grouping of the hydrocarbon radical are replaced by said groups. This also applies to the rest of the description, if this name is used.
  • The Group K binds to the silicon atom via a carbon atom the group S.
  • The Group K can, as seen above, also preferably quaternary Have ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups in addition to the ammonium groups in said component a2) in the inventive Polysiloxane compounds result.
  • The polysiloxane compounds of the invention can such as in the radical K, have amino groups. The implementation the polysiloxane compounds of the invention with acids leads to their protonation. Such protonated amino groups containing polysiloxane are included in the scope of the present invention.
  • The Binding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the remaining Aufbaukoniponenten over the rest K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the radical K.
  • R 1 is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R 3 , so that a cycle results.
  • R 3 represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may be, or -AER 2 , wherein A, E and R 2 are as defined above.
  • The Radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, takes place the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the - organic radical mentioned above, the at least contains an ammonium group.
  • The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention furthermore component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for neutralization the charges resulting from the ammonium group (s). organic or inorganic acid residues are residues formally derived from the Cleavage of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids result and close for example, a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, Nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred. The organic or inorganic anionic Acid residues as component a4) of the invention Polysiloxane compounds may be the same or different be from each other. This results from the reaction of the amines with Alkyl halides preferably halide ions, while to Example Carboxylates from the carboxylic acids, which in the Reaction of bisepoxides with amines can be added, result.
  • In a preferred embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above , and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.
  • The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula: -N 1 -FN 1 -, wherein N 1 is a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 4 ) N + (R 5 ) -, in which R 4 represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -,
    -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, and R 5 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 4 or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R 4 and R 5 within the group -N 1 -FN 1 - and in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
    F is a bivalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S, where S is the same as above, interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula -N 1 -FN 1 - (preferred embodiments, etc.), refer to the explanations of the first embodiment of the present invention for component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds in which this group is realized. which are also valid in this more general context.
  • The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may furthermore preferably be a radical of the general formula - (R 6 ) N + (R 7 ) -,
    in which R 6 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
    -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R 6 represents a single bond to a trivalent radical K.
  • R 7 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH- -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER 2 , wherein -AER 2 has the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 6 or to a trivalent radical K. The radicals R 6 and R 7 may be the same or different from each other.
  • For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula - (R 6 ) N + (R 7 ) - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the second, third and fourth embodiment to the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, component a), of Reference is made to present active substance complex according to the invention, in which this group is realized, and which also have validity in this more general context.
  • The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may further preferably be a radical of the general formula:
    Be -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -
    wherein N 5 is an ammonium group of the general formula
    - (R 23 ) N + (R 24 ) - is where
    R 23 represents hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH may be substituted
    R 24 represents hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R 23 , and the radicals R 23 and R 24 within the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -as as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be identical or different from each other,
    F 1 represents a divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group-E- can be,
    and wherein a plurality of the groups N 5 and F 1 may each be the same or different from each other.
  • For further details of the definitions of the ammonium group of the formula -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the fifth embodiment for the component a, the Po referred to as lyammonium-polysiloxane compounds of the present invention, in which this group is realized by way of example, and which also have validity in this more general context.
  • in the The following are the components a) of the invention Complex of active substances, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, based of five preferred embodiments of this Compounds described in more detail.
  • A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (which will be referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical the general formula: -N 1 -FN 1 - is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the following general formula (I): - [BN 1 -FN 1 ] m- (I) where m = 2 to 500,
    B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally -AE-A'- and -A'-EA-, where S, K, -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA, respectively - and -N 1 -FN 1 - are as defined above, and the proportion of the group -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- in the group B may be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A '- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to 50% of the mass of the polysiloxane S in the polymer.
  • The first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene-oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (I ') - [BN 1 -FN 1 ], - (I ') where m is 2 to 500,
    B-EKSKEA,
    S -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O [Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] n -Si (R 1 ) 2 -
    R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
    n 0 to 1000,
    K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH can
    E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] r -,
    q 1 to 200,
    r 0 to 200 and
    A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-,
    N 1 is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 4 ) N + (R 5 ) - R 4 represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and. may be substituted with -OH
    R 5 represents R 4 or a single bond to R 4 or F,
    F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • The possibility of a tetravalent substructure for F means that F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N 1 , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N 1 . For a more detailed illustration, see the publication WO 02/10257 , in particular there Example 1, referenced.
  • In a further embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, the possibility of a divalent substructure for R 4 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R 5 in this case is a single bond to R 4 . Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures. More preferred embodiments of this so-called first embodiment of the invention The method and the method for producing the above-mentioned polysiloxane compounds of the formula (I) or (I ') are described below.
  • R 4 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 14 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 14 , wherein R 14 is a straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbyl radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • As mentioned above, R 4 and R 5 can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
    Figure 01170001
    form.
  • The preferred meanings of R 1 in the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R 4 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 16 , more preferably C 3 -C 16 , hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably a C 3 -C 16 -hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, - C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH, wherein R 1 has the abovementioned meaning.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, interrupted and can be substituted with -OH.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 4 -, - (CH 2 ) 6 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH (OH) CH 2 -, and - CH = CHCH 2 -.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R 14 is preferably unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are used in the present invention as active ingredients a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, R 14 furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting
    Figure 01180001
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds m is 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds n is 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80 and more preferably 10 to 80.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the invention q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and especially preferably 2 to 10.
  • In the so-called first embodiment of the invention r is 0 to 200, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50 and still more preferably 0 to 20.
  • For the production of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds according to the invention both of this first embodiment and of all further preferred embodiments of the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, the disclosure is quite explicit WO 02/10257 directed.
  • A particular embodiment of the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (II), R 2 -EAN 2 -KSKN 2 -AER 2 (II) wherein
    S, K, -AE-, -EA- and R 2 have the meanings given above, and
    N 2 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 8 ) N + (R 9 ) - wherein
    R 8 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH,
    R 9 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R 8 or to a trivalent radical K, and the radicals R 8 and R 9 within the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (II) may be identical or different from one another.
  • Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are (α, ω-alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (II '), R 16 -EAN 2 -KSKN 2 -AER 16 (II ')
  • What the names stand for,
    S -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O [-Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] n -Si (R 1 )
    with R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
    n is 0 to 1000,
    K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, N 2 is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 8 ) N + (R 9 ) - R 8 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
    R 9 R 8 or a single bond to K or R 8 ,
    A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-
    E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O]
    q 1 to 200
    r 0 to 200 and
    R 16 H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and
    -OH can be substituted and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.
  • The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means here that K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N 2 . The possibility of a divalent substructure for R 8 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R 9 is then a single bond to R 2 .
  • R 8 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH -CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 17 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCO-R 17 ,
    wherein R 17 is a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH ,
  • As mentioned above, R 8 and R 9 may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
    Figure 01210001
    form.
  • Among the preferred meanings of R 1 in the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds may be to the above. to get expelled.
  • In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 16 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C (O ) -,
    -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R 1 is as defined above.
  • Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures:
    Figure 01210002
  • R 8 is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 16 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) and substituted by -OH ,
  • R 16 is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.
  • Furthermore, R 16 is preferably C 5 -C 17 -alkyl, -CH 2 CH = CH 2 ,
    -CH 2 CH (OH) CH 2 OCH 2 CH = CH 2 , -CH 2 CCH, -C (O) CH 3 , -C (O) CH 2 CH 3 .
  • R 17 preferably represents unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably to saccharidecarboxylic acids.
  • R 17 is particularly preferably selected from the group
    Figure 01220001
    selected.
  • In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, more preferably 10 to 80.
  • In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and most preferably 2 to 10.
  • In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds r is preferably 0 to 100, and more preferably 0 to 50.
  • In the so-called second embodiment of the invention r is 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.
  • to Preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention the so-called second embodiment is to the statements refer to the first preferred embodiment.
  • A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN 3 ] m- (III) where S, K and m are as defined above,
    N 3 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 10 ) -N + (R 11 ) wherein R 10 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may or is a single bond to K,
    R 11 is -AER 2 , wherein -AER 2 has the abovementioned meaning.
  • The polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (III ') - [KSKN 3 ] m- (III '), where m is 2 to 500,
    S is -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O- [-Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] n -Si (R 1 ) 2 -
    with R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl or aryl, n = 0 to 1000,
    N 3 is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 10) N + (R 11) wherein R 10 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may or is a single bond to K,
    R 3 -AE- is, with
    A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- and
    E for a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] r -R 18
    q from 1 to 200,
    r from 0 to 200,
    R 18 is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic, and
    K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 40 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N 5 , with
    N 5 in the meaning of - (R 19 ) N + (R 20 ) -
    R 19 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or a single bond to R 10 , and R 20 is -AE-, as defined above.
  • For the preparation of the preferred embodiments of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, as has already been explicitly stated, reference is made to the published patent application WO 02/10257 directed.
  • R 10 and R 19 are independently of one another preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 21 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 21 , wherein R 21 is a straight, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.
  • In one embodiment of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, a bivalent substructure for R 19 is a cyclic system-forming structure wherein R 10 then has a single bond to K, preferably a tertiary amino structure or the quaternary structure N 5 over R 19 .
  • The preferred meanings of R 1 in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements.
  • Preferably R 10 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 25 hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted with -OH can.
  • Preferably, R 19 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 25 hydrocarbyl radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted with -OH can.
  • In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is furthermore preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is
    Figure 01250001
    wherein R 20 is as defined above.
  • In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, R 2 or R 18 is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and acetylenically or can be olefinic. More preferably R 2 or R 18 is C 1 -C 6 -alkyl,
    -CH 2 CH = CH 2 , -CH 2 CH (OH) CH 2 OCH 2 CH = CH 2 , -CH 2 CCH, -C (O) CH 3 or -C (O) CH 2 CH 3 .
  • Preferably, R 21 is an unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals derived from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • For example, R 21 is:
    Figure 01260001
  • In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50, n 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80, q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10, r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably r 0 to 10.
  • For the preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the so-called third embodiment to be used according to the invention, it is expedient in turn to refer to the published patent application WO 02/10257 directed.
  • A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes (which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (IV): - [N 4 -KSKN 4 -AE-A '] m - or - [N 4 -KSKN 4 -A'-EA] m - (IV) wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, and
    N 4 is an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R 12 ) N + (R 13 ) - wherein R 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
    R 13 may have the meanings of R 12 , or represents a single bond to K or R 12 , and the radicals R 12 and R 13 may be the same or different from each other. Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are alkylene oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV '), - [N 4 -KSKN 4 -AEA] m- (IV ') where m = 2 to 500,
    S -Si (R 1 ) 2 -O [-Si (R 1 ) 2 -O] -Si (R 1 ) 2 - wherein
    R 1 is C 1 -C 22 -alkyl, C 1 -C 22 -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
    n 0 to 1000,
    K is a bivalent one. or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
    -NR 1 , -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH,
    N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R 12 ) N + (R 13 ) - wherein R 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH,
    R 13 is R 12 or a single bond to K or R 12 ,
    A is -CH 2 C (O) O-, -CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O- or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 C (O) O-
    E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH 2 CH 2 O] q - [CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) O] r -
    with q = 1 to 200 and
    r = 0 to 200.
  • To the manufacturing process is based on the previously executed directed.
  • More preferred Embodiments of this so-called fourth embodiment Polysiloxanes of the formula (IV) or (IV ') are described below.
  • The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means that K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N 4 .
  • The possibility of a divalent substructure for R 12 means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R 13 is then a single bond to R 12 .
  • R 12 is preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 2 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 3 CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 5 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 22 or -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCOR 22 ,
    wherein R 22 is a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH ,
  • As mentioned above, R 12 and R 13 may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas
    Figure 01280001
  • For the preferred meanings of R 1 in the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, reference may be made to the above statements.
  • Preferably R 12 is a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 16 hydrocarbyl radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted with -OH can.
  • In the so-called fourth embodiment, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 3 -C 15 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR 1 -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CHOHCH 2 - or
    Figure 01280002
  • Preferably, R 22 is an unsubstituted C 5 -C 17 hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C 3 -C 17 radicals which may be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.
  • More preferred is R 22 :
    Figure 01290001
  • m is preferably 2 to 100, and more preferably 2 to 50. n 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and more preferably 10 to 80. q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and more preferably 2 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10. r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20, more preferred r 0 to 10.
  • The term "C 1 -C 22 -alkyl or C 1 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched can. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.
  • The term "C 1 -C 22 fluoroalkyl", as used above, in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed.
  • The term "aryl" as used above means in the context of the present invention unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF 3 C 1 -C 6 -alkyl, C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy, C 3 - C 7 -Cycloalkyl, C 2 -C 6 alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.
  • A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as constituent a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V): [-N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -Y-] m wherein
    Y is a group of the formula -KSK- and -AE-A'- and -A'-EA-, respectively,
    wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 100,
    N 5 is an ammonium group of the general formula - (R 23 ) N + (R 24 ) -, in which
    R 23 represents hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH may be substituted
    R 24 represents hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, C (S) and substituted by -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 23 , and the radicals R 23 and R 24 within the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
    F 1 represents a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or -C (S) - or by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein a plurality of N 5 and F 1 may each be the same or different from each other.
  • The molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) is between 100: 1 and 1: 100. This molar ratio can be as in the published patent application WO 02/10257 The properties of the products depend essentially on the ratio of the starting materials used, and in particular the ratio of the (□, □ -halocarboxylic acid polyalkylene oxide ester compounds and the polysiloxane bis-epoxy compounds used in accordance with the invention Length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein.
  • In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth Embodiment of the polysiloxanes K is a divalent Hydrocarbon radical having at least 4 carbon atoms, the one Has hydroxyl group and which is interrupted by an oxygen atom can be.
  • In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, F1 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 2 -C 30 -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C 2 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical ,
  • In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - a group of formula: -N (R 25 R 26 ) + - F 2 -N (R 25 R 26 ) + - wherein
    R 25 is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH , particularly preferably methyl,
    R 26 is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C 1 -C 20 -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, particularly preferably Is methyl, or a single bond to a divalent radical R 25 , and the radicals R 25 and R 26 within the group -N 5 -F 2 -N 5 - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other, and
    F 2 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.
  • In a more preferred embodiment, F 2 is a branched, preferably straight chain C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.
  • In a further preferred embodiment. the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 - a group of formula: -N (R 27 R 28 ) + -F 3 -N (R 27 R 28 ) + - wherein
    R 27 and R 28 are each hydrogen, C 1 -C 6 alkyl or hydroxy (C 1 -C 6 ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen, methyl or -CH 2 CH 2 OH, and
    F 3 is a divalent straight, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E- wherein E is as defined above.
  • F 3 is particularly preferably a group of the formula -DED wherein E is as defined above and D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group, provided that D is not a single bond when it binds to a terminal E group oxygen atom.
  • Preferably, the group -DED- is replaced by a group of the formula -D- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) v (OCH 2 CH (CH 3 )) w -OD wherein D is a straight or branched C 1 -C 6 alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above. In the group
    -D- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) q (OCH 2 CH (CH 3 )) r -OD- the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units may be arranged arbitrarily, e.g. B. as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.
  • v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, more preferably 1 to 40.
  • w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.
  • In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 by a group of the formula: -N + R 25 R 26 -F 2 -N + R 25 R 26 - and a group of the formula: -N + R 27 R 28 -F 3 -N + R 27 R 28 - wherein the substituents each have the above meanings.
  • This means that the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N 5 -F 1 -N 5 -.
  • In this embodiment, the molar ratio of the group -N + R 25 R 26 -F 2 -N + R 25 R 28 - to the group -N + R 27 R 28 -F 3 -N + R 27 R 28 - preferably 70:30 to 95: 5, preferably 80:20 to 90:10.
  • The Polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) can be cyclic or linear. In the case of linear connections result the terminal groups either from the for the preparation used bifunctional described below Monomers or their functionalized derivatives or monoamines, during the polymerization as chain terminator be added. The results from the use of the monoamine chain stopper resulting terminal groups are preferably as ammonium groups, either by quaternization or protonation.
  • In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is one of the groups of the formula:
    Figure 01340001
  • In the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, specifically 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range from 0 to 100, especially 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and all specifically 0 to 10.
  • In the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention the organic or inorganic acid radical becomes neutralized the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s) appropriate selected from inorganic radicals, such as chloride, bromide, Hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals such as acetate, propionate, Octanoate, decanoate, dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above chloride and bromide preferably from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups result.
  • Farther are the polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.
  • The polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment of the invention are suitably prepared by ei One of the methods, which in the published patent application WO 02/10257 are described.
  • The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
  • The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above in the compositions according to the invention in in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% each used in relation to the overall composition.
  • The Ratio of polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds to a further synergistic active ingredient component selected from the group of polymers, protein hydrolysates, silicones, the vitamins and the plant extracts is in general According to the invention 1: 1000 to 1: 2, preferably 1: 100 to 1: 2, more preferably 1:50 to 1: 2, and most preferably 1:10 to 1: 2.
  • If a mixture of at least two silicones is used so is this mixture in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of Silicone mixture based on the composition included.
  • According to the invention It is also possible that the mixture of silicones has its own Phase in the compositions of the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition immediately before use by shaking in the short term is homogenized. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight to the total composition.
  • Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that a mixture of several fatty substances (D) from different ones Classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fat used in the compositions of the invention can be. The preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components in this case necessarily contain at least another silicone component. The silicone component is preferred in this case selected from the dimethiconols and the Amodimethicones.
  • The Total amount of oil and fat components in the invention Average is usually 0.5-75 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 % By weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • One another synergistic active ingredient according to the invention in the inventive compositions with The active substance complex according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or its derivatives (P).
  • proteins and / or protein hydrolysates are capable of internal structure significantly restructure the skin and hair. Under structure strengthening, So restructuring in the context of the invention is a reduction the damage caused by various influences to understand the skin. Here, for example, the recovery plays the natural strength an essential role. restructured For example, skin areas and restructured hair stand out by improved strength, less roughness or through an improved grip. Additionally they point an optimized strength and elasticity.
  • proteins and protein hydrolysates have long been known and will widely used in cosmetic products. To this is on the Referenced relevant literature. Of course These are long known protein hydrolysates in outstanding way together with the new invention Protein hydrolysates and derivatives from the wool of Vikunja used become.
  • It has long been known to use proteins but also modified proteins to achieve care effects in cosmetic preparations. Either water-soluble proteins or proteins modified by chemical and / or enzymatic reactions, ie made water-soluble, are used for this purpose. In the case of the reactions to achieve adequate solubility in water, fibrous proteins often require so much degradation that the cosmetic effectiveness is no longer sufficient.
  • Thereby in particular, an increase in mildness and skin tolerance but also, if desired, a fine creamy foam achieved the application of the compositions of the invention. This in its structure very fine, creamy and as extreme pleasantly feeling foam is present in all compositions achieved in which in particular surface-active substances as further ingredients are included. The effectiveness of the invention Composition is characterized by the simultaneous use of Polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids further increased. In these cases remains after the application of each composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or whose derivative is on the surface of the hair, which leads to an improved effect. The hair is through clearly strengthened and smoothed in its structure. This effect is also clear with objective evidence such as the measurement of combing forces of wet and dry hair, measuring the breaking forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin detectable. A confirmation These results can also be found in the results of the consumer tests again.
  • protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives built-up polymers under the term Understood protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, Polyasparagin, Polyserin etc. count. Further examples for compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course can according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid. The molecular weight of Protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably, the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and quite more preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. Of course includes the present inventive teaching also that in the case of the amino acids these are in the form of derivatives, such as the N-acyl derivatives, the N-alkyl or the O-ester may be present. In the case of N-acyl derivatives is the acyl group a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the remainder of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In case of a N-alkyl derivatives, the alkyl group, linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters are those of esterification underlying alcohols methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, Butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, Heptanols, caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, Dodecanols, lauranols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols with a C chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course you can the amino acids on both the N atom and the O atom simultaneously be derivatized. Of course you can the amino acids also in salt form, especially as mixed salts used together with edible acids. This may be preferred according to the invention.
  • When Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are named: Alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, Cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, Isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine, norvaline, Ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, Threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, Glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, Proline, hydroxyproline, serine and asparagine. Very particularly preferred Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are used. Most preferably, glycine, histidine, lysine and serine are used.
  • According to the invention Protein hydrolyzates both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • In particular, vegetable proteins and their hydrolyzates as well as derivatives in cosmetics have been used more and more frequently recently. For example, products based on wheat, oats, Rice, corn, potatoes or soy. To the plants, which contain interesting active ingredients, belongs also the family of the Moringagewächse. These include about 14 species. One of them is Moringa oleifera (Moringa pterygosperma). Other species include Moringa drouhardii, Moringa concanensis or Moringa peregrina. Extraction of this seed with a water-glycerin mixture yields an extract consisting of proteins having a molecular weight of about 500 to 50,000 daltons. Such a protein is for example available under the trade name Puricare ® LS 9658 by the company. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques commercially.
  • Moringa have been known since ancient times. Better known are plants of this species under their trivial name "miracle tree." They are preferably located in tropical areas. The different parts This genus of plants have been known since ancient times in particular used for medical purposes. From the seeds of the Moringa growths is by a gentle extraction with water and glycerin the Gained protein. This protein has a molecular weight of 500 to 50000 daltons. Preferred is a protein extract with a molecular weight from 3000 to 30,000 daltons, most preferably from 5,000 to 15,000 Dalton. The most preferred extract is from the plant Moringa Oleifera won. Furthermore, the inventive Extract due to extraction of course water and glycerin. The content of extracted protein in the extract is 0.01 to 20 wt .-%. A content of protein from 0.01 to 10 wt .-% is preferred. Particularly preferred is an extract with a protein content from 0.01 to 5% by weight. Furthermore, in the extract at least 30 wt .-% glycerol included. Finally, water is in contain the extract of the invention.
  • In The cosmetic compositions are the protein extract described above from the seeds of Moringa growth in an amount of at least 0.01 to 20 wt .-% included. Preference is given to amounts of the extract from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soya, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), Diahin ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosog ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • Further According to the invention, preferred protein hydrolysates are of maritime origin. These include, for example Collagen hydrolysates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
  • beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic Calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be Easily gain from cultivated mussels. The cultivation The shells can be fresh in as well done in seawater. This can affect the ingredients of Impact beads. According to the invention is preferred a pearl extract, which cultured in marine or salt water Shells came. The pearls consist to a large extent from aragonite (calcium carbonate), conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Furthermore, in pearls are still Magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds as well Contain phosphates.
  • to Preparation of the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. After that, the powdered beads with the usual Extracted methods. As extractant for the preparation of the pearl extracts may be used water, alcohols and mixtures thereof become. Underwater are both demineralized water, as well as sea water. Among the alcohols are there lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both alone Extractant as well as in mixture with demineralized water or seawater, preferred. Perlenextrakte based on water / glycerin mixtures have proved to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions The pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) can largely in a native state or already partially or largely as Protein hydrolysates are present. Preferred is a pearl extract, in which conchiolin and albumin already partially hydrolyzed available. The essential amino acids of these proteins are glutamic acid, serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment It may be advantageous if the pearl extract in addition with at least one or more of these amino acids this Amino acids is enriched. in the most preferred embodiment the pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.
  • Farther is found depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending from the choice of the extractant a more or less large Share of minerals and trace elements in the extract again. One preferred extract contains organic and / or inorganic Calcium salts and magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90% and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of course occurring pearls.
  • Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
  • In the cosmetic compositions is one of those previously described Pearl extracts in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20% by weight contain. Preferably, amounts of the extract are from 0.01 up to 10 wt .-%, most preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% based on the total cosmetic composition used.
  • One Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.
  • silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. Under Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread Fibroin. As a cement substance sericin keeps this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight Sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight from dyes and mineral components.
  • The essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt .-% hydroxy amino acids. The sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of sericin are serine (Ser, 37 Wt%), aspartate (Asp, 26 wt%), glycine (Gly, 17 wt%), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr).
  • The water-insoluble fibroin is associated with scleroproteins to count long-chain molecular structure. The main ingredients of the fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26% by weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another essential structural feature of the fibroine is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.
  • Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such will become part of the Fe. Pentapharm Ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are understood in particular as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ® Silk. The DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.
  • The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The properties of a shampoo containing sericin as a nourishing component are described in the "Medizinische Kosmetologie 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative, for example, in the DE 31 39 438 A1 described as caring and conditioning for the hair.
  • According to the invention, it is possible to use as active ingredients:
    • - native sericin,
    • Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
    • - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the serine and / or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt .-%, the aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt .-% and the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt .-%, with the proviso in that the amounts of these amino acids and / or derivatives thereof preferably add up to 100% by weight,
    • - And their mixtures.
  • According to the invention can be used as active ingredients:
    • Native fibroin converted into a soluble form,
    • Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
    • The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
    • A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as, for example, hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the glycine and / or or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60 wt .-%, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40 wt .-% and the tyrosine and its derivatives are contained in amounts of 0 to 25 wt .-%, with the Given that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives preferably add up to 100% by weight,
    • - And their mixtures.
  • If in the compositions of the invention agent according to the invention both silk protein hydrolyzates simultaneously and / or their derivatives are used, it may be preferred according to the invention be that at least one of the two silk components, Fibroin or sericin in the native or at most soluble made form is used. According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives.
  • If a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their Derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention be that the two silk protein hydrolysates in proportion from 10:90 to 70:30, especially 15:85 to 50:50 and especially 20:80 to 40:60 based on their respective levels of active substance used in the preparations according to the invention become.
  • The Derivatives of the hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin include both anionic as well as cationized protein hydrolysates. The invention Protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin as well as those produced therefrom Derivatives may be derived from the corresponding proteins a chemical, especially alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis be won. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Preferred are such Protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or their derivatives, their underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, among cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also quaternized amino acids and their mixtures to understand. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or the Amino acids are often quaternary Ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides carried out. Furthermore, the cationic Protein hydrolysates also be further derivatized. As typical Examples of the cationic according to the invention Protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those under the INCI names commercially available products called: cocodimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk. When typical examples of the invention anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are those among the INCI names and commercially available Products called: Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk. Ultimately are still typical examples of the present invention can be used Derivatives of sericin and fibroin under the INCI names commercially available products called: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Further usable according to the invention, although not necessarily preferred are the commercially available Products with the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk.
  • In the agents used in the invention are the Silk protein hydroxysates and / or their derivatives in amounts of 0.001-10 Wt .-% based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.
  • Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.
  • According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P) use.
  • The Protein hydrolysates (P) are in concentrations in the compositions from 0.001% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05 Wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • The effect of the compositions according to the invention can be further enhanced by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Another object of the invention is therefore the use of derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, more preferably 0.1 to 5, and especially 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.
  • A Another preferred group of ingredients of the invention Compositions with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • vitamins, Pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • The Skin, whereby under skin naturally also the scalp understood, leaves after the treatment with these very particularly preferred components a substantial neater, more vital, stronger impression with clear improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and also in the dry state. Furthermore, this drug affects the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and of strained hair, leads to a regulation of Fetthaushaltes, so that the thus treated skin and hair slower greases and does not tend to overgrease. additionally This drug shows an anti-inflammatory and the Skin soothing effect. Finally, through this Active ingredients regenerated and repaired the split hair. These agents are able to penetrate the hair and to strengthen and repair the hair from within. This "repair effect" can be objectively measured by means of DSC measurements prove. These effects may also be, for example Subjectively proven in the consumer test.
  • The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others
    • - Vitamin B 1 (thiamine)
    • - Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
    • - Vitamin B 3 . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
    • - Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the Panthenoltriacetat, the Panthenolmonoethylether and its monoacetate as well as in the WO 92/13829 disclosed cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B 5 type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
    • - Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferred in amounts in the compositions according to the invention from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent used. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" usually becomes essential Fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.
  • vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound becomes (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid but for the meantime the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. Biotin is in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • Prefers contain the compositions of the invention Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well Nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain antimicrobial compounds. Suitable antimicrobial compounds are, for. B. cationic surfactants such. Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, or the N, N, N'-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) -N'-octadecyl-1,3-diaminopropane dihydrofluoride known as the amine fluoride. Good are also the antimicrobial biguanide compounds such. As the polyhexamethylene biguanide (Vantocil IB ®, ICI) or 1,1'-hexamethylene-bis- (4-chlorophenyl) -biguanide ( "chlorhexidine") in the form of a water-acceptable salt, z. In the form of the acetate or gluconate. Preferably, the antimicrobial 5-amino-hexahydropyrimidines, z. For example, 1,3-bis (2-ethylhexyl) -5-methyl-5-amino-hexahydropyrimidine ("hexetidine"). Further preferably suitable antimicrobial agents are the non-cationic, phenolic, antimicrobial substances, in particular the halogenated phenols and diphenyl ethers. Particularly suitable antimicrobial compounds of this type are z. As the 6,6'-methylene-bis (2-bromo-4-chlorophenol) ("bromochlorophene") and the 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether ("triclosan").
  • Further suitable antimicrobial agents are the p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters and sesquiterpene alcohols such as e.g. B. the bisabolol, the farnesol, Santalol or Nerolidol.
  • After all result from the use of plant extracts (L) in the Compositions according to the invention further synergistic Advantages. Therefore, the use of these substances is particularly advantageous.
  • such Combinations cause, among other things, a pleasant scent both the cosmetic composition, as well as the treated therewith Skin as well as the treated hair. It may possibly even on the addition of other perfume oils and fragrances be waived.
  • Farther affect these plant extracts of the invention Also, the moisture balance of the skin and hair favorably. In addition, they show an anti-inflammatory and the skin soothing effect when, for example, chamomile or valerian be used. Show particularly good effects in relation to the hair Nettle, hops, birch and burdock root.
  • Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, it may also be preferred in individual cases, the Extracts of flowers and / or leaves only or to produce the roots of the plant.
  • With regard to the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention, special mention is made of the extracts which are used in Page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the German Association of Personal Care and Detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt , starting table are listed.
  • According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Valerian, Meadowfoam, Quender, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Slicer, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root are preferred.
  • Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, Stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, Lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, Apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Valerian, Coffee, cocoa, moringa, home toe, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.
  • All especially for the composition according to the invention suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe Vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and Melon.
  • According to the invention it is most preferable if so-called plant extracts Ayurvedic plant extracts are used. Under an Ayurvedic Plant extract is any plant extract to understand which was produced according to the principles of Ayurvedic teaching. The Foundations of Ayurveda teaching can be called the "Veda" be removed. Usually in the Ayurvedic Therapeutic treatment with ayurvedic extracts and oils three different treatments by ayurvedic therapists carried out.
  • To The traditional Ayurvedic plants include Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). In the sense of the present Invention are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus rotundus (Nagar motha), Emblica officinalis (Amalki), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala) are preferred. Especially preferred are cosmetic compositions containing Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala). Selbstverständlcih The inventive teaching also includes that in the compositions according to the invention mixtures used from at least two of the ayurvedic plant extracts become. It may be preferred if one of the Ayurvedic Plant extracts Bilwa is.
  • Santalum Album (Chandana) is one of the sandalwood plants. Under sandalwood are woods of the family Fabaceae as also understood woods of the family Santalaceae. To the family the Santalaceaen include, for example, Santalum album, the sandalwood tree. This will deliver the white or yellow Sandalwood. The yellow sandalwood becomes essential oils, the sandalwood, which is also found in western homeopathy used in case of urinary tract infections or kidney disease become. In cosmetics, these essential oils are exclusive used as perfume oils or as components of perfume oil compositions. In particular, the products extracted with water vapor are called Perfume oil ingredients used.
  • Regle Marmelos or Bilwa belongs to the family Rutaceae, which are related to the citrus fruits. The tree is in both Ayurvedic and Western homeopathic Teaching known. Bilwa is especially in the case of stomach ailments and diarrhea used. In the compositions according to the invention can Bilwa contribute to the foaming behavior like foaming, Foam volume, creaminess of the foam or the fine pores of the To improve foam. At the same time, the necessary amount be reduced to surfactants and / or emulsifiers. this in turn leads to a better compatibility of the respective cosmetic compositions. In particular, together with mild anionic Surfactants achieve these effects of the Bilwa.
  • Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar motha) is a grassy plant. In medicine of Ayurveda as well as in Greek medicine became Cyperus Rotundus used as anti-inflammatory.
  • Emblica Officinalis (Amalki) is one of the oldest Indian fruits. The fruits are extremely nutritious and contain including large amounts of vitamin C. As this fruit five of the six tastes of human tastes contains, this fruit is the best in the teaching of Ayurveda Fruit and as the most useful for the maintenance of health and to cure diseases. Due to scientific Research has been known to make this fruit unique Contains tannins and flavonoids.
  • Morinda Citrifolia (Ashyuka) has been used to treat almost all diseases used. In particular, however, too high blood pressure, heart problems and Diabetis treated with it.
  • Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi) is one of the succulents. In the Ayurvedic Medicine is the plant as anti-inflammatory, against arthritis and allergies used.
  • Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma) is widely used in India. It is used especially in rice dishes. In the teaching of Ayurveda also serves as an aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it should be fever have lowering effects. In food it is used as a spice and used for coloring the foods.
  • Nelumbo Nucifera is a lotus plant. Both in the Indian doctrine of Ayurveda as well as in Chinese medicine is Lotus as a benefactor described for the entire physique. Lotus is at the same time the symbol of prosperity, beauty, wealth and fertility.
  • Cinnamomum Zeylanicum is used as a warming plant. It's exciting the circulation especially of the outer limb like fingers and feet. It is therefore also at Used colds. It increases the Bioavailability of other plant extracts. Continue it as a spice for food and drinks used. In the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions may be particularly preferred, Cinnamomum Zeylanikum to use as Ayurvedic extract, if at the same time more Plant extracts in the compositions of the invention should be used. This is especially true for the Extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, Hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, Almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, sage, rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Valerian, Coffee, Cocoa, Moringa, Meristem, Ginseng and Ginger root. All these last mentioned extracts have in common that they produce specific effects. These Effects are the promotion of the blood circulation of the skin, a skin-soothing effect, one's growth, in particular in the case of small skin injuries, promoting effect, an anticatalytic effect and regulation of sebum production the skin to name just the essential effects.
  • After all can in the compositions of the invention furthermore advantageously an extract of a sweet grass be used. Sweet grasses are botanical belonging to the family of the Poaceae. The Poaceae include about 9000 known species in about 650 genera. Your dissemination is worldwide. The family of grasses have been very high for humans since ancient times Importance. For example, count among the grasses also the cereals, but also sugar cane or lemongrass. Especially the seeds of the grasses contain chemically high levels of the proteins prolamins and glutamines. Example of especially important representatives are wheat, barley, rye, oats, Spelled, corn, the different types of millet (European millet, crabgrass, Millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, meadow foxtail, Oat oats, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, Cotton grass, also called cogon grass. As only from these few Examples can be seen, the sweet grasses very diverse from humans to nutrition, as Medicinal plants or used as building material. In cosmetics will for example, the starch obtained from corn, rice or wheat used. But also essential oils, such as citronella oil from Cymbopogon are already used in cosmetics. After all are also made from the fruits of, for example, wheat, obtained protein fractions for the production of protein hydrolysates and their derivatives used. Little is known, however the use of the roots of sweet grasses. In the case of the extracts of the Poaceae according to the invention extracts of the roots of the respective grasses are predominantly used. Of course, however, also extracts all other plant parts are used.
  • The Poaceae family is described in various textbooks. The details of each species vary between 9000 and 12000 species. However, the division into 13 subfamilies is uniform. The subfamilies as well as selected examples are:
    • 1) anomochlooideae,
    • 2) Pharoideae,
    • 3) Puelioideae,
    • 4) Aristidoideae,
    • 5) Danthonioideae,
    • 6) Arundinoideae,
    • 7) Centothecoideae,
    • 8) Chloridoideae, for example buffalo grass, silt grasses, dog tooth grasses or love grasses,
    • 9) panicoideae, for example cymbopogon (lemongrass), sugar cane, zea (corn), paniceae (millet), lamprey grasses, andropogonodeae (also known as imperium cylindrica, grass or cogon grass),
    • 10) Bambusoideae, for example bamboo,
    • 11) Ehrhartoideae, for example Oryzeae (rice) or Zizania (wild rice),
    • 12) Pooideae, for example aveneae (oat grass, oat oats, oats, honey grasses, perennial oats), Poeae (grasses, bluegrasses), Triticeae (couch grass, barley, wheat, rye) and
    • 13) other species, which are not classified in any of the aforementioned subfamilies.
  • In principle, all types are suitable according to the invention for obtaining an extract from the roots. In principle, according to the invention, all root extracts of the Poaceae can also be used. According to the invention, however, the use of root extracts which are particularly rich in alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, in elements of the I and II subgroups of the Periodic Table and in organic and / or inorganic sulfur are preferred. This applies in particular to the extracts of the subfamilies 8) to 12). Preferred extracts are used from one of groups 9) to 12). Particularly preferred is an extract from one of groups 9) and 10). Within the groups 9) and 10), the extract of bamboo and flame grass is very particularly preferred. Most preferred is the extract from the roots of the flame grass, Imperata Cylindrica. Such a raw material, for example, under the trade name Moist 24 ® by the company. Sederma commercially available.
  • Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that these extracts according to the invention themselves may in turn be part of a mixture of various further cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically usable premixes. For example, an extract of the invention may be included as a component of drug capsules from which it is released during use. Of course, such active ingredient capsules may also have further independent effects in the agents according to the invention. Such effects may be, for example, an exfoliating effect caused by the capsule as such. However, in general, the capsule shell is destroyed and released the active substance extract according to the invention and can in turn develop its effect. Such raw materials are available, for example from the company Cognis under the trade name Primasponge ® commercially. An inventive representative of these raw materials is for example Primaspong SS Ivory, which contains a bamboo extract according to the invention.
  • When Another particularly preferred plant extract is an extract available from plants of the genus Echinacea. This is to be understood as meaning an extract which, according to the invention, comprises the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and pressed juices the sun hat family (Echinacea, synonym: Brauneria Necker), in particular from Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), as well as from these extracts To understand active substances. Particularly preferred are pressed juices and extracts of coneflower, especially echinacea purpurea (L) Moench, used.
  • Preferably, the pressed juices or extracts of herb (the above-ground parts of plants) and / or root of Sonnenhutgewächse be obtained. The pressed juices are preferably obtained by mechanical pressing. Particularly preferred is a pressing according to the patented by the company. Flachsmann method according to EP 0 730 830 B1 , the disclosure of which is hereby incorporated by reference in its entirety.
  • The Extracts can be made with water, as well as polar or apolar organic solvents and mixtures thereof in the Be prepared expert known manner. Extracts by Extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures, obtained can be, as well as press juice, are preferred.
  • It Both the extracts in both the original Extractants as well as extracts / pressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular Ethanol and ethanol / water mixtures are used. Prefers extracted or pressed material is used as a solid, the solvent (in particular as possible gently) was withdrawn. But it can also be such extracts / pressed juices are used, from which the solvent partially withdrawn was used, so that a thickened extract / press juice is used. Very particular preference is pressed juices from the fresh Echinacea purpurea herb (Echinacea purpurea moench herba). Especially The extracts and / or pressed juices are in solid form used.
  • According to one particularly preferred embodiment is the active ingredient, available from plants of the genus Echinacea from pressed juices and extracts from Echinacea purpurea be won.
  • Further very special extracts, which are extracted from vegetable products are the raw materials known under the INCII name Vitis vinifera. Under this designation are both wine extracts as well as champagne extract. Wine is an extreme complex mixture. To date, not all ingredients enlightened by wine. Finally, "wine" not just "wine." Also white wine, red wine or Rose is still too inaccurate. Strictly speaking, it would have to be in be spoken by each grape variety in each case. As the Examination results of the University of Mainz show exists Wine from up to 800 different chemical substances. From that However, there are only about 400 different substances in their structure known. Furthermore, the composition of the wine, depending on the grape variety, Location, soil on which the vine grows, season, hours of sunshine etc. different. For example, a good sommelier can in the same situation, the same grape variety and the same development of the wine quite two consecutive vintages taste to distinguish from each other. Therefore, it is not surprising if a wine extract is not the same as the wine extract. Rather, it is too here decisive, from which grape variety, from which situation, on which Soil the concerned extracted plants have grown. It There are now more than 16,000 grape varieties known. Nevertheless, will be Extracts according to the INCII-declaration exclusively with the name "vitis vinifera".
  • moderate and regular wine consumption now stimulates scientific proved the digestion. Wine prevents arteriosclerosis, stops the vessels elastic and lowers blood lipid levels. The age-related: degradation of brain functions is slowed down and Thus, the mental fitness is increased in old age. So it is surprising not that wine in different variants entrance into cosmetic Found compositions.
  • According to the invention for common use with the new protein hydrolyzate and its derivatives, which are obtained from the wool of Vikunja, all extracts nevertheless suitable under the name "vitis vinifera" it may be preferable to use in particular champagne extract, because this extract, as explained below, in comparison to the wine extract interesting and advantageous properties having.
  • A special and exclusive way of preparing wine is champagne. Champagne is made from the grape varieties "Pinnt Meunier", "Pinnt Noir "and" Chardonnay "produced. Already during the expansion the vines are given a special care that the nutrients of the soil as best as possible Growth of the grapes can serve. It's supposed to be the nutrients best serve the maturity of the grapes and get into these find again. This particular way of expanding the champagne grapes finds its continuation in the pressing. It is especially through The gentle treatment of the grapes prevents the color find the peel and the bitter substances in the must again.
  • So especially the champagne among the wine drinks due the special care and the special procedure in the sparkling wine production is, it is not surprising that champagne itself Entrance has found in cosmetic preparations. For example Skin creams in emulsion form described with champagne as Solvents were prepared. The use of champagne as a solvent instead of water, however, is very expensive. In addition, in the usual hot process for the production of skin creams at temperatures of 75 ° C and higher essential ingredients of thermal decomposition subject.
  • Surprisingly It has now been found that an extract of champagne is not just the has excellent known effects of champagne as such, but beyond that in some for the user significant benefits from cosmetic products having. If in cosmetic compositions champagne itself used in such cosmetic compositions also substances contained by the champagne, which sensitizing or show carcinogenic or toxic properties. Will, however Extracted champagne at room temperature with a circulating glycerol-water mixture, So a champagne extract is obtained, which contains no ingredients containing adverse effects. On the other hand, the Ingredients of champagne, which are responsible for the stimulating, anti-inflammatory, allergy-calming, astringent, anti-oxidative and vascular-strengthening effects are relevant, continue to be included. Furthermore, such a Champagne extract in a nearly constant quality to disposal. Finally, the champagne extract can be added the production of cosmetic compositions to a process step be added, at which the temperature sensitive ingredients are no longer subject to decomposition.
  • In addition to the excellent process properties of the champagne extract, it has further surprisingly been found that the champagne extract according to the invention in cosmetic compositions leads to a significantly improved moisture retention capacity of the treated therewith Skin and hair leads. Associated with this, the skin feel and feel of dry skin and dry hair, as well as wet skin and wet hair, are described as being much more pleasant, gentler, softer, smoother and supple by subjects.
  • Also if a champagne extract is in principle like a wine extract usually obtained from the leaves, the vines or the grapes, and also under the aspect that champagne extract and wine extract bear the same INCII name "vinis vinifera", so are Both extracts are clearly different. This is based on the special way how champagne is grown and cared for also in the special way of the further processing of the Champagne grapes. This is how the champagne grapes are processed great emphasis is placed on the coloring and bitterness the grapes do not get into the juice of the grapes. Therefore contains the champagne extract unlike the wine extract these ingredients not or only to a very minor extent as an impurity. Consequently, the characteristics of a wine extract differ as well and the champagne extract of the invention.
  • When Extraction agent for the preparation of the inventive Champagne extracts may contain water, alcohols and ethoxilates of lower alcohols such as polyglycols and polypropylene glycols with a degree of ethoxylation of 1 mole of ethylene oxide up to 100 mol Ethylene oxide, preferably from 1 mole to 50 mol, more preferably from 1 mole to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, as well as mixtures thereof become. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, Isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, tertiary butanol, Pentanols, hexanols, heptanols and octanols, and their ethoxylates with ethoxylation levels as previously described, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and glycerin and their ethoxylates with degrees of ethoxylation as indicated above, both as sole extractant and in mixture with Water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 have proved to be particularly suitable proved. For cosmetic purposes, extracts are on the Base of water / glycerol in the ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 also very suitable. Extracts with excellent effects are obtained when pure propylene glycol as extractant is used.
  • Finally, a champagne extract which is most preferred according to the invention is obtained by subjecting the champagne produced by the customary processes to a liquid-liquid extraction. For this purpose, the champagne is extracted at room temperature with a circulating mixture of glycerol and water. Obtained is about 0.1 to 10% champagne extract. The ratio of glycerol to water in the extraction is about 10: 1 to 1: 1. Preferred is a ratio of 10: 1 to 2: 1. An example of a very particularly preferred champagne extract is the commercial product under the name Champagne Extract ® from Botanica.
  • The Champagne extracts can according to the invention both be used in pure as well as in diluted form. If used in diluted form, contain they usually about 0.1-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction Extracting agent or extractant mixture.
  • Of course the teaching according to the invention also includes the knowledge that instead of the Chamapagne extract the respectively isolated ingredients of champagne. The present Invention also includes the teaching that the invention Extracts with the aforementioned individual compounds which may be included in the respective extract, in addition both as a respective single compound and as a mixture of various compounds can be enriched. The use of the champagne extract is preferred according to the invention.
  • Of the Champagne extract according to the invention is in the cosmetic preparations in amounts of 0.001 to 15 wt .-%, preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 10% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% each based on the total composition contain.
  • When Extraction agent for the preparation of all previously mentioned plant extracts can, if not with the extracts themselves other extractants or methods are mentioned, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant as well as in admixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts on Base of water / propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • The plant extracts according to the invention can be used both in pure and in diluted form be set. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • Farther it may be preferred in the inventive Mixtures of several, especially two, different Use plant extracts.
  • In addition to the plant extracts, a rock crystal extract has also recently been used in cosmetic compositions. Rock crystal is a modification of silica. Silica itself is also included in many other clays and earths as a companion material. For example, quartz is found in bentonite. Quartz in the form of various silicates is also used, for example, in homeopathic remedies, for example sodium aluminum silicate for the reduction of heartburn or also in the medicine of Ayurveda. Sand, which can be contaminated with quartz, finds use in cleansing cosmetic products as exfoliating body. In addition, quartz has a mystical meaning. So the rock crystal is considered something special. The varieties of rock crystal, amethyst, smoky quartz, chrysoprase, citrine, morion or rose quartz are very much in demand as gemstones both as home decoration and as garment jewelery in many cultures. These crystals and minerals are a symbol of beauty, shine and riches. It has often been and is believed that these crystals have healing properties because they are water turned to stone. Other minerals containing amorphous or finely divided silica are the opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. In the following quartz refers exclusively to the mineral, crystallized modifications of the quartz, which satisfy the structural formula SiO 2 and are free of impurities. Contaminants are not understood to mean the traces of other elements embedded in them, which contribute to the color of the rose quartz, for example. Under no circumstances are the term "quartz" understood silicates, phyllosilicates, talcs, spades, etc. In particular, the term "quartz" understood and can be used according to the invention: quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, rock crystal, smoky quartz, Amethyst, chrysoprase, citrine, morion, rose quartz, opal and its varieties agate, chalcedony, onyx, carnelian, heliotrope, jasper or flint. Preference is given to quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is given to using smoke quartz, rose quartz and rock crystal. Most preferred is rock crystal.
  • finely ground Quartz, as well as an extract of finely ground quartz, is used in cosmetic Compositions used to give the skin and hair a velvety, to give a soft, comfortable feeling. Continue the shine of the skin and hair in an outstanding way increased significantly. However, there is no undesirable burden of skin and hair. Also on the hair are subsequent treatments such as Cold wave or dyeing processes not only not disadvantageous impaired but it finds no impairment instead of.
  • Of the finely ground quartz, the quartz powder, is made according to usual Methods for comminution and grinding of rocks obtained. Quartz powder is particularly useful in particle sizes of 0.5 microns to 500 microns used. Especially preferred are particle sizes from 0.5 to 250 μm, very particular preferred from 10 microns to 200 microns. In a preferred embodiment according to the invention The finely ground quartz is made using protic solvents extracted and the resulting quartz extract is in the cosmetic Used compositions. Also in this embodiment are quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite, stishovite, Rock Crystal, Smoky Quartz, Amethyst, Chrysoprase, Citrine, Morion, Rose Quartz, Opal and its varieties Agate, Chalcedony, Onyx, Carnelian, Heliotrope, jasper or flint as starting materials for production a flour and the subsequent extraction to the "quartz extract" used. Preference is given to using quartz, smoky quartz, rock crystal, Rose quartz and agate. Very particular preference is smoky quartz, Rose quartz and rock crystal used. Most preferred is rock crystal.
  • As extraction agent for the preparation of said quartz extracts, water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Underwater are to be understood here as demineralized water, as well as seawater and mineral water. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, pentanols, hexanols or heptanols, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerols and glycols, in particular glycol, diglycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol , Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol both as the sole extractant and in admixture with demineralized water, mineral water or seawater. Extracts based on water and polyhydric alcohols in the ratio 1:50 to 50: 1 have proved to be suitable according to the invention. A ratio of 1:25 to 25: 1 is preferred. Particularly preferred is a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1. Most preferably, a ratio of 1: 5 to 5: 1, wherein a ratio of water to more Alcohol of 3: 1 to 1: 1 is most preferred. The invention also includes the teaching that, of course, a plurality of alcohols and / or polyhydric alcohols can be used as extractant in admixture with water. Under mineral water is to understand water, which comes naturally from mineralized sources. For example, the mineral waters include Evian, SpA, Léau de Vichy, etc. As the extraction method, any known methods such as hot extraction or other methods may be used. A quartz extract thus obtained usually contains at least 1 to 100,000 ppm of silicon. Preferred is an extract with a minimum amount of silicon of 10 ppm. Particularly preferred is an extract with a content of silicon of at least 50 ppm. Very particular preference is given to an extract with a content of at least 100 ppm. Most preferred is a content of at least 200 ppm silicon. The amount of silicon in the extract is determined by flame spectrometry in distilled water. The quartz extract may optionally be adjusted with water glass to a constant minimum content of silicon. If water glass is used to set a constant silicon content, it may still be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract. The quartz extract usually has a pH of 4-11, preferably 6-11, more preferably 7-10 and most preferably 7.5-9.5. Should it be necessary to adjust the pH of the quartz extract, the pH will be adjusted with mineral acids such as aqueous solutions of hydrogen halides, sulfuric acid and its salts, sulphurous acid and its salts, phosphorous acid and its salts, phosphoric acid and its salts or with organic acids Acids and their salts such as iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid made. The adjustment of the pH of the quartz extract with acids, which also have complex-forming properties, may be preferred. These include, for example, phosphoric acid, iminodisuccinic acid, etidronic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid and their salts. Very particular preference is given to using phosphoric acid in the case of a necessary pH adjustment. An example of a commercially available quartz extract is available under the name Crodarom ® rock crystal by Croda free in the trade.
  • As a further essential ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain purine and / or derivative (s) of purine. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH 2 , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH 3 in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.
  • preferred Compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention Cosmetic compositions characterized in that they - related on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s) included.
  • Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)
    Figure 01640001
    in which the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH 2 , -SH and the radicals R 4 , R 5 and R 6 are independently selected from -H, -CH 3 and -CH 2 -CH 3 , where the following compounds are preferred:
    • Purine (R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Adenine (R 1 = NH 2 , R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Guanine (R 1 = OH, R 2 = NH 2 , R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Uric acid (R 1 = R 2 = R 3 = OH, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Hypoxanthine (R 1 = OH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • 6-purethiol (R 1 = SH, R 2 = R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • 6-thioguanine (R 1 = SH, R 2 = NH 2 , R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Xanthine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Caffeine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = R 5 = R 6 = CH 3 )
    • - Theobromine (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = R 4 = H, R 5 = R 6 = H)
    • Theophylline (R 1 = R 2 = OH, R 3 = H, R 4 = CH 3 , R 5 = CH 3 , R 6 = H)
  • ever according to the intended use of the cosmetic products may vary the type and amount of purine derivative. In hair cosmetic In particular, caffeine has proven itself in formulations for example in shampoos, conditioners, hair lotions and / or Lotions preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 0.25 wt .-%, further preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the shampoo) are used can.
  • additionally It may prove advantageous if in the inventive Compositions Penetration Aids and / or Swelling Agents (M) are included. These excipients provide better penetration of active ingredients in the keratin fiber or help the keratinic Swell fiber. These include, for example, to count Urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ether, Propylene glycol and propylene glycol ether, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.
  • A Particularly preferred group of swelling agents can be hydantoins be. Hydantoins show the same in cosmetic compositions several desirable beneficial effects. One of these Effects is their ability to swell the skin and of the hair favorably influence. invention Therefore, compositions preferably contain from 0.01 to 5% by weight of hydantoin or at least one Hydatoinderivates. Particularly preferred used according to the invention hydantoin derivatives, with 5-ureidohydantoin being particularly preferred. Independently whether hydantoin or hydantoin derivative (s) is / are used, use amounts of 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% - in each case based on the total Medium - most preferred.
  • In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention which are 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.075 to 1% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 0, are preferred. 25% by weight of hydantoin and / or hydantoin derivative (s), preferably 5-ureidohydantoin (allantoin)
    Figure 01650001
    contain.
  • A Another group of very special ingredients of the invention Compositions are biochinones. In the invention Means are one or more ubiquinone (s) under suitable biochinones and / or plastoquinone (e).
  • ubiquinones represent the most widely used and thus best studied Biochinones are. Ubiquinones are depending on the number of in the side chain linked isoprene units as Q-1, Q-2, Q-3, etc. or referred to as number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. she preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most Mammals, including humans, are predominant Q-tenth Ubiquinones serve the organisms as electron carriers in the respiratory chain. They are in the mitochondria where they are the cyclic oxidation and reduction of the substrates of the citric acid cycle enable.
  • The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
    Figure 01660001
    with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.
  • Particularly according to the invention Preferably, the ubiquinone of the formula where n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.
  • Plastoquinones have the general structural formula
    Figure 01660002
    on. They can be isolated from chloroplasts and play a role as redox substrates in photosynthesis in cyclic and noncyclic electron transport, reversibly converting into the corresponding hydroquinones (plastoquinol). Plastoschinone differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are termed endsprechend, z. Eg PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.
  • The or the biochinone (s) is (are) in the inventive Means - in terms of their weight - in a crowd from 0.0000005 to 2%, preferably in an amount of from 0.000001 to 1% and in particular in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.5%.
  • A another particularly preferred group of ingredients in the inventive cosmetic compositions are betaines. Under betaines are here not to understand Betaine with surface active Properties, as discussed in the chapter on surfactants or emulsifiers have been described.
  • A betaine in the context of the present invention is to be understood as meaning compounds which simultaneously contain both a grouping -NR 3 and a grouping -CR 2 COO (-) , analogously constructed sulfobetaines and compounds which have a grouping -NR 3 + and a grouping Have -CH 2 OH. This definition is based on the definition in Römpp's Lexicon Chemistry CD-ROM Version 2.0, Stuttgart / New York, Georg Thieme Verlag 1999 , In particular, the betaines according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those which correspond to the formula (AI). R 1 R 2 R 3 N + - (CR 4 R 5 ) x - (CR 6 R 7 ) y - (CR 8 R 9 ) z -Y - (AI) R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 here independently of one another represent:
    • • hydrogen,
    • • a methyl radical,
    • • a C 2 -C 8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, R 4, R 5, R 6, R 7, R 8 and R 9 are here each independently:
    • • hydrogen,
    • • OR 10 ,
    • • -OCOR 11 ,
    • A methyl radical which can carry a 1H-imidazolyl-4-substituent,
    • • a C2-C8 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical, wherein R 10 is hydrogen, -CH 3 or a C2-C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon group and R 11 is -CH 3 or a C2-C30 saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or cyclic hydrocarbon radical .
    x, y and z are independently an integer from 0 to 12 with the proviso that at least one of x, y or z is other than 0 and Y is COO - , SO 3 - or a hydroxy group in combination with a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • Under Betains within the meaning of the invention are also to be understood as meaning such substances in which the mentioned characteristic groups only at the dissolved Substance as well as within certain pH ranges of the solution available.
  • Of course, all physiologically acceptable salts of the betaines according to the invention, in particular also the mixed salts of the betaines, can be used according to the invention. Mixed salts are solid solutions of various substances. For the generally accepted definition of mixed crystals as solid solutions is, for example HR Christen, Fundamentals of General and Inorganic Chemistry, Sauerländer und Sale, 5th Edition, 1977, on page 245 referred and expressly incorporated. Furthermore, the different types of mixed crystal formation, such as isomorphism, homeomorphism, heteromorphism, random mixed crystal formation also called double salt formation, mixed crystals with or without miscibility gap, etc., according to the definition Hollemann-Wiberg, Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry, Walter de Gruyter, 81.-90. Edition 1976, Chapter VII, The chemical bond under cc) The mixed crystal formation on page 114 described according to the invention among the mixed crystals of the active compounds of the formula (I) according to the invention. This definition is also expressly referred to.
  • Under The mixed salts of betaines can, on the one hand, the inorganic ones Mixed salts such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, hydroiodides, Sulfates, sulfites, hydrogen sulfates, hydrogen sulfites, carbonates and Hydrogencarbonates, mono-, di-, triphosphates or mixtures of Phosphates and mixtures of these mixed salts of the invention Betaine can be used. On the other hand, the mixed salts the betaines according to the invention with organic Carboxylic acids find use. Suitable examples of such acids are, for example, formic acid, Acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, Isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, Pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, Succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, Adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, Azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, Crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, Maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, Citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, Benzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, Naphthoic acid, toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, Atropic acid, salicylic acid, cinnamic acid, Isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, Malonic aldehyde acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid.
  • It may furthermore be preferred, in particular organic polyfunctional Use carboxylic acids, in addition to at least one carboxy group additionally at least one hydroxy group and / or at least have an amino group. Examples of these organic Carboxylic acids are glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, Tartaric acid or citric acid etc, which the edible acids attributable to. Furthermore, they include amino acids such as histidine, arginine, lysine, citrulline, etc. to the polyfunctional organic acids, which are mixed salts used with the active compounds (I) according to the invention can be. According to the invention it can be preferred, the mixed salts in solid form in the formulations incorporate. It is of course also possible to use the mixed salts in the form of their individual components.
  • The Mixture ratio of the invention Mixed salts can be based on the respective molecular weights of the individual Components (Betaine of the formula (I) / mixed salt-forming substance) between 1:50 and 50: 1, preferably between 10: 1 and 1:10 and most preferably between 3: 1 and 1: 3.
  • Examples of particularly suitable betaines of the formula (AI) according to the invention are: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, 3-O-lauroyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3-O-octanoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, 3 O-palmitoyl L-carnitine hydrochloride, taurine, tauryl lysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithitate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, hercynin (Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), Ergothionein (thionein, 2-mercapto-Nα, Nα, Nα -trimethyl-L-histidinium betaine), choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and the compound designated as betaine in the literature N, N, N-trimethylglycine. These mixed salts may be preferred according to the invention.
  • Prefers are carnitine, taurine, histidine, choline, betaine and their derivatives used. The inventive Compositions both a compound according to formula (A-I) as well as several, especially two, compounds of the formula (A-I).
  • The agents according to the invention contain the betaines in amounts of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. A content of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% is preferred.
  • It According to the invention, all types of Isomers, such as diastereomers, enantiomers, cis-trans isomers, optical isomers, conformational isomers and racemates are used.
  • In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention L-carnitine, L-carnitine tartrate or taurine are used. there can the compositions of the invention both a compound according to formula (A-I) as also contain several, in particular two, compounds of the formula (A-I).
  • Farther can the cosmetic invention Compositions to achieve certain effects, such as an anti-dandruff effect, or effects against acne, pharmacologically contain active substances.
  • Examples for pharmacologically active substances are corticosteroids, β-blockers, estrogens, Phytoestrogens, cyproterone acetate, vasodilating Substances such as diazoxide, nifedipine and minoxidil, acetylsalicylic acid or salicylic acid.
  • These Substances are purchased in amounts of from 0.01 up to 10% by weight in each case included on the entire composition.
  • After all show experimental findings that the invention Compositions are particularly well suited to perfume oils or fragrances on the skin and hair in an increased amount deposit. At the same time the perfume oils remain and fragrances significantly longer on the skin or hair be liable. This leads to increased acceptance such compositions in the consumer.
  • A Another group of very particularly preferred ingredients of Compositions according to the invention are perfumes. The outstanding and completely surprising positive Results of compositions containing the inventive Active ingredients and perfumes have been previously described in detail.
  • With The term perfume are perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances meant. As perfume oils are called Mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • natural Fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, Roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, Caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (macis, angelics, celery, cardamom, costus, Iris, Calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, Rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, Sage, thyme, chamomile), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, Pines), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax).
  • Farther come from animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum.
  • typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds the type of ester are z. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, Allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, Floramat, Melusat, Jasmecyclat and Benzylsalicylat. To the Ethern For example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane include the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, Citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionone and Methylcedrylketon, too the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, Linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms like limes and pinas.
  • Prefers However, mixtures of different fragrances are used, the together create an appealing scent. Also essential oils lower volatility, which is mostly used as aroma components are suitable as perfume oils, z. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, Juniper Berry Oil, Vetiver Oil, Oliban Oil, Galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange blossom oil, Orange Peel Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Neroliol Allylamyl Glycolate, Cyclovertal, Lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-Damascone, Geranium oil Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate used alone or in mixtures.
  • Further examples of fragrances which may be present in the compositions according to the invention are found, for example, in US Pat. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, self-published or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3rd. Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997 ,
  • Around To be perceptible, a perfume must be volatile being, besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure the molecular weight of the chemical compound also plays an important role plays. Most fragrances have molecular weights of up to about 200 daltons, while molar masses of 300 daltons and above are more likely constitute an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of one of several changes Fragrances of composite perfume or fragrance during evaporation, taking the odor impressions in "top note", "heart or middle note" (middle note or body) and "base note" (end note or dry out). Because the smell perception to a large Part also based on the odor intensity, there is the Top note of a perfume or fragrance not only from volatile Compounds, while the base note to the largest Part of less volatile, d. H. adherent fragrances consists.
  • Tenacious Fragrances, in the context of the present invention advantageously can be used, for example, the essential oils like angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, Basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champacabell oil, Edling fir oil, Edel fir cone oil, Elemiöl, Eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, Galbanum oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, Ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, Calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, Cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaiba balsam oil, Coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, Cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, Lemon balm oil, musk kernel oil, myrrh oil, Clove oil, neroli oil, niaouli oil, olibanum oil, Orange oil, Origanum oil, Palmarosaöl, Patchouliöl, Peru balsam oil, petitgrain oil, pepper oil, Peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, Rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, Spiked oil, star aniseed oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, Thyme oil, verbena oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, Wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, Hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, Lemon oil, lemon oil and cypress oil.
  • But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances natural or of synthetic origin may be within the scope of the present invention Invention advantageously as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, So fragrances are used. These connections include the following compounds as well as mixtures of these: Ambrettolide, amyl cinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, Anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, Ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, Benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, bornyl acetate, Bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, Eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, Heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, Hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, Indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, cu-marine, p-methoxyacetophenone, Methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methyl acetophenone, Methylchavikol, p-methylquinoline, methylnaphthylketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, Methyl n-nonyl ketone, Muskon, naphthol ethyl ether, naphthol methyl ether, Nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, Pentadecanolide, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, Phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, Salicylic acid methyl ester, salicylic acid hexyl ester, Salicylic acid cyclohexyl ester, santalol, skatole, terpineol, Thymen, thymol, -undelactone, vanilin, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, Zimatalkohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, Zimtsäurebenzylester.
  • Among the more volatile fragrances which can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, in particular the lower-boiling fragrances include natural or synthetic origin, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more volatile fragrances are alky isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butadione, limonene, linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.
  • All The above-mentioned fragrances are alone or in a mixture according to present invention can be used with the advantages already mentioned.
  • Lie the boiling points of the individual fragrances substantially below 300 ° C, so is a preferred embodiment the invention, wherein preferably at least 50% of the contained Fragrances have a boiling point below 300 ° C, advantageously at least 60%, in a further advantageous manner at least 70%, more preferably at least 80%, in excess advantageously at least 90%, in particular even 100%.
  • boiling Below 300 ° C are therefore advantageous because the relevant Fragrance at higher boiling points too low volatility would have. But to at least partially "flow out" of the particle being able to develop and fragrance is a certain volatility the fragrances of advantage.
  • It was observed earlier that some, unstable Perfume ingredients sometimes with carrier material are not well compatible and after incorporation in the carrier at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier a porous mineral carrier, such as Clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated Zeolite. Unstable perfumes in the sense of this invention can thereby be identified as having a perfume composition, comprising at least 6 fragrances in activated / dehydrated Zeolite X incorporated and the resulting sample for Stored at room temperature for 24 hours. Then the perfumes extracted with acetone and analyzed by gas chromatography for stability to determine. A fragrance is then considered unstable in the sense of this Invention, if at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 65 wt .-%, advantageously at least 80 wt .-%, in particular at least 95% by weight of this perfume decomposes into degradation products and can not be recovered during the extraction.
  • are in the agent according to the invention less than 15 Wt .-%, preferably less than 8 wt .-%, advantageously less as 6 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, of unstable Perfume contains, based on the total perfume, which is ad / absorbed in / on the particle, so is a preferred Embodiment of the invention, wherein the unstable Perfume, in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols esters of tertiary alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and aldehydes, Acetals, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.
  • If the perfume ad / absorbed in / on the particle, at least 4, advantageously at least 5, in further advantageous Way at least 6, in still more advantageous manner at least 7, more preferably at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular contains at least 10 different fragrances, such is a preferred embodiment of the invention in front.
  • If the logP value of the perfume components which are in / on the Particles ad / absorbed, substantially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, in a further advantageous manner at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, especially 90% of the perfume components of this meet log requirement, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • The logP value is a measure of the hydrophobicity of the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the partition coefficient between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient of a perfume ingredient is the ratio between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with higher partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The stated conditions for the logP are advantageous because it is ensured that the fragrances can be better retained in the pores of the support material and also better on objects which are treated with the particles (for example, indirectly by treatment with a Detergent formulation containing the particles of the invention). The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; For example, the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS) of Irvine, California, contains many such values along with references to the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated, for example, with the "CLOG P" program of the aforementioned company Daylight CIS. For calculated logP values, one usually speaks of ClogP values Values also include the Clog-P values, preferably Clog-P values for hydro-phobicity be used if there are no experimental logP values for certain perfume ingredients.
  • If If desired, the perfume can also be made with a perfume fixative be combined. It is believed that perfume fixative the evaporation of the higher volatile fractions of Slow down perfumes.
  • According to one another preferred embodiment, the perfume comprises which is adsorbed in / on the carrier material from / Perfume-fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, Musk (derivatives) as well as mixtures of these, the fixative amount preferably 1 to 55% by weight, advantageously 2 to 50% by weight, even more advantageously 10 to 45% by weight, in particular 20 to 40% by weight the total amount of perfume is.
  • According to one Another preferred embodiment contains the particles a the viscosity of liquids, in particular perfume-enhancing agent, preferably PEG (Polyethylene glycol), advantageously with a molecular weight from 400 to 2000, the viscosity increasing Preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously from 0.15 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-% is included on the particles.
  • It It has been found that the viscosity of Liquids, in particular perfume-raising agents another contribution to the stabilization of the perfume in of the particles when nonionic surfactant is present at the same time is.
  • The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2 ) n -OH (I), in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.
  • To particularly preferred polyethylene glycols those with molecular weights between 400 and 2000. In particular, polyethylene glycols can also be used which are inherently room temperature and pressure of 1 in liquid state; here is above all of polyethylene glycol of a molecular weight from 200, 400 and 600 the speech.
  • The Perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total composition, of Total composition added.
  • The Perfumes can be in liquid form, undiluted or diluted with a solvent for Perfumes can be added to the compositions. Suitable solvents for this purpose are, for. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate etc.
  • Of Further, the perfumes for the invention Compositions be adsorbed to a carrier, which is responsible for both a fine distribution of fragrances in the Product as well as for a controlled release at the application ensures. Such carriers can be porous inorganic materials such as light sulphate, silica gels, zeolites, Plasters, clays, clay granules, aerated concrete etc. or organic materials like woods and cellulose-based substances.
  • The Perfume oils for the invention Compositions may also be microencapsulated, spray dried, as inclusion complexes or as extrusion products and in this form the compositions to be perfumed to be added.
  • Optionally, the properties of the perfume oils modified in this way can be further optimized by so-called "coating" with suitable materials with a view to a more targeted release of fragrance, for which preferably waxy plastics such. As polyvinyl alcohol can be used.
  • Of the Consumers may like to perceive the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by an asthetically appealing packaging, optionally in conjunction with aromatic fragrances, the inventive Composition with a stimulant such. Sweets or drinks. Through this association can, especially in children, an oral intake or swallowing the cosmetic composition is not excluded in principle become. In a preferred embodiment included therefore, the compositions of the invention a bitter substance, to a swallowing or akzidentielle Prevent ingestion. In this case, according to the invention are bitter substances preferably soluble in water at 20 ° C to at least 5 g / l are.
  • Regarding an undesirable interaction with optionally in fragrance components contained in the cosmetic compositions, in particular a change in the consumer's perception Fragrance note, the ionogenic bitter substances are nonionic proved superior. Ionogenic bitter substances, preferred consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s), are therefore for the invention Preparations preferred.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. Such a compound is the commercially z. B. under the trade name Bitrex ® and Indigestin ® available Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.
  • Of the Bitter is in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the molding, contain. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.
  • Advantageous For the purposes of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can be used as an ingredient in the active ingredient complex (A). Under short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the sense The invention relates to carboxylic acids which are saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or may be aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight less than 750. Preferred in the sense The invention can be saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length from 1 to 16 carbon atoms in the chain, are particularly preferred those with a chain length of 1 up to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • A Use of short-chain carboxylic acids is the adjustment the pH of the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions. The composition of the invention leads in conjunction with a short-chain carboxylic acid to an improved skin smoothness and to an improved Skin structure and a smoothed hair structure.
  • Next the invention exemplified above short-chain carboxylic acids themselves can also their physiologically acceptable salts used according to the invention become. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, Zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present Registration also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. In addition, however, can also be alkaline reacting amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, Ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids used become. The sodium, potassium, ammonium and Argininsalze are preferred salts. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid as an active ingredient from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.
  • To the most preferred according to the invention Short chain carboxylic acids include the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and Polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxy-di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.
  • Examples are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids Glycolic acid, glyceric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, Tartaric acid or citric acid. Of course The teaching according to the invention also includes that these acids in the form of mixed salts, for example with Amino acids, can be used. This may be preferred according to the invention be. Examples of amino acids which are mixed salts can be used with these hydroxycarboxylic acids, are carnitine, taurine, istidine, lysine, arginine and ornithine. One typical representative of the mixed salts according to the invention is for example carnitine tartrate.
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.
  • According to the invention It is also possible a mixture of several active ingredients to use this group.
  • The short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred in Meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, especially di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxy groups may be used, in whole or in part, as ester, acid anhydride, lactone, Amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, Hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonated or phosphate ester. The invention Of course, carboxylic acids can be used substituted along the carbon chain or ring skeleton be. To the substituents of the invention Carboxylic acids are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, C2-C8 alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl-, Cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in ☐ position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino groups, wherein the amino function optionally by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals can be further substituted. Furthermore, they are also preferred Carboxylic acid derivatives, the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4,4'-dicyano-6, 6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a Dicarboxylic acid selected from the group formed by compounds the general formula (NI),
    Figure 01820001
    in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • dicarboxylic acids of formula (N-I) are known in the literature.
  • The Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be, for example by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization are prepared. Usually one becomes of a polyunsaturated fatty acid go out as dicarboxylic acid component. Preferably, the accessible from natural fats and oils Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component in particular acrylic acid, but also z. For example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred. Usually arise in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, in which a Component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can according to the invention as well as the pure compounds are used.
  • Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to the formula (N-I) are also those dicarboxylic acids that are different from the Compounds according to formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 Differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or from these compounds formally by addition of a molecule Water are formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • Next the invention exemplified above short-chain carboxylic acids themselves can also their physiologically acceptable salts used according to the invention become. Examples of such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, Zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which in the context of the present Registration also the mono-, di- and trimethyl, -ethyl and -hydroxyethyl ammonium salts to be understood. Especially preferred may be in the frame However, the invention with alkaline amino acids, such as For example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized Acids are used. Furthermore, it may be for formulation reasons be preferred, the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.
  • Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy-di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together in the compositions. It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. As the alcohol component of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for. As fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trademark Cosmacol ® from EniChem Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • Completely according to the invention it is particularly preferred as short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention, the so-called pleasure acids use.
  • These Active ingredients of the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and most preferably in Amounts of 0.1 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.
  • A especially diverse and interesting cosmetic Active substance group are polyhydroxy compounds. The inventive Use of polyhydroxy compounds as active ingredient with the other inventive Components may therefore be particularly preferred. Under polyhydroxy compounds to understand organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:
    • Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,
    • Ethoxylates and / or propoxylates with 1 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of the aforementioned polyols,
    • Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts,
    • - In particular, monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or Acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters, may be present,
    • - Aminodeoxyzucker, deoxysugar, thio sugar, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and further Monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which are also present in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or in the form of methyl ethers and phosphate esters, are very particularly preferred. or lactoses and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups, and also in the form of the methyl ethers and as a phosphate ester may be present.
  • Furthermore, preferred are oligosaccharides having up to 50 monomer units, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and also in the form of the methyl ethers and as a phosphate ester may be present.
  • Examples of the polyols according to the invention include sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose , Altrose, gulose, idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, rutinose, raffinose and cellotiose. Furthermore, the relevant specialist literature such as Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section III, pages 393 and following referenced ,
  • preferred Polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythride, Erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, Mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, Sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose. Especially preferred are glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, Glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose used. However, very particular preference is the use of glucose, Galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or Cellobiose In a particularly preferred embodiment is at least one polyhydroxy compound with at least as active ingredient Contain 2 OH groups. Among these compounds are those with 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.
  • Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH 2 (OH) CH 2 OH) and other 1,2-diols such as H- (CH 2 ) n -CH (OH) CH 2 OH where n = 1, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH 2 ) n - CH (OH) -CH 2 CH 2 OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 , 20 are used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.
  • Important Representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.
  • Under the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, the glycerol has a outstanding importance.
  • In summary compositions according to the invention are preferred, in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from Ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.
  • Independently the type of polyhydroxy compound used with at least 2 OH groups are preferred agents according to the invention, which, based on the weight of the agent, 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-% polyhydroxy compound (s) included.
  • With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) H (CH 2 ) k (OCH 2 CH 2 ) n OH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.
  • It has been found that mixtures of "short-chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long-chain" Polyalkylene glycol have advantages. Particular preference is given to mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more Preferred mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, Triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahydylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol , the decapropylene glycol, the dodecapropylene glycol or the tetradecapropyolene glycol, in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives being preferred ,
  • Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized characterized in that it comprises at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV), in which n is the numbers 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of Formula (IV), where n is the number 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5: 1 to 1: 1.
  • All Particularly preferred polyols of the present invention are polyols with 2 to 12 carbon atoms in the molecular skeleton. These Polyols can be straight-chain, branched, cyclic and / or be unsaturated. The hydroxy groups are very special preferably terminal adjacent or terminal separated by the rest of the chain. As examples of These polyols may be mentioned: glycol, polyethylene glycol up to one Molecular weight up to 1000 daltons, neopentyl glycol, partial glycerol ethers having a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, Glycerol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, Pentanediols, for example 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,4-cyclohexanediol, 1,2-cyclohexanediol, heptanediols, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,7-heptanediol, Octanediols, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, Octadienols, decadienols, dodecanediols, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, 1,12-Dodecanediol with 10 mol EO, dodecadienols.
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, Anomeric and chiral isomers.
  • According to the invention It is also possible to use a mixture of several polyhydroxy compounds use.
  • The Polyhydroxy compounds according to the invention are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight to to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% up to 15 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of from 0.1% by weight up to 10% by weight contain.
  • Other optional ingredients that can be used in cosmetic compositions are preservatives. Preservatives used are the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the European Cosmetics Regulation. Especially preferred is mild preservation, ideally without the addition of typical preservatives. In general, the following substances and their mixtures are used:
    • Aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
    • - Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
    • Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
    • 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2 -Hexadekandiol,
    • Formaldehyde releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea
    • - Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol , Methyldibromoglutaronitrile,
    • Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and bristles, bisulfites,
    • Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,
    • - Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid
    • Active agents with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,
    • Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,
    • Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and salts thereof,
    • - As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.
  • In Another particularly preferred type of the invention Compositions may also affect the water activity in the Reduced so far compositions according to the invention be that a growth of microorganisms no longer take place can. In particular, glycerol and sorbitol are used for this purpose.
  • The inventive compositions contribute help to preserve that in an excellent way possible with the mild preservative additives is. But also the complete absence of preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.
  • The Amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0-2% by weight, more preferably from 0-1% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0 to 0.8 wt .-% based on the Total amount of the composition.
  • Further optional ingredients of the invention Compositions are Deodorants. Deodorants can not just used in deodorants to increase underarm sweating prevent. They can also be used in skin care products be used to affect the sweat on other skin areas. This includes, for example, the scalp.
  • The Increase compositions according to the invention clearly demonstrably the deposition of deodorant acting substances on the skin and hair. This is done in the panel test among other things also by a clearly extended lasting Effect noticeable.
  • As Deowirkstoffe esterase inhibitors can be added. These are preferably trialkyl such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl, triisopropyl, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® ® CAT, COGNIS). The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odors. The cleavage of the citric acid ester is likely to release the free acid, which lowers the pH on the skin to the extent that it inhibits the enzymes. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. Particularly effective are also 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol has proven that is marketed under the brand name Irgasan ® by Ciba-Geigy, Basle / CH.
  • It may be preferred according to the invention, the inventive Protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the wool of vicuna as part of a color change of the hair, to use. For this purpose, the cosmetic products additionally contain at least one color-changing component. According to task we you. a. the authenticity of the color obtained Environmental influences improved.
  • The color-changing component is again preferably selected
    • (A) from at least one oxidation dye precursor of the type of developer components and optionally additionally at least one coupler component and / or
    • (b) from oxo dye precursors and / or
    • (c) from at least one direct dye and / or
    • (D) from at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or
    • (e) at least one bleach booster.
  • The developer components are usually primary aromatic amines with a further, in para- or ortho-position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used.
  • It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particular preference is given to p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1)
    Figure 01920001
    in which
    • G 1 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) - Alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, 4'-aminophenyl or (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl or a 4'-aminophenyl;
    • G 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) - Alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl or (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl substituted with a nitrogen-containing group;
    • G 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, such as a chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radical, a mesylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radical or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -Carbamoylaminoalkoxyrest;
    • G 4 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical or
    • When G 3 and G 4 are ortho to each other, they may together form a bridging α, ω-alkylenedioxy group, such as, for example, an ethylenedioxy group.
  • Especially Preferred p-phenylenediamines of formula (E1) are selected one or more compounds of the group that is formed p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methyl- (N, N-diethyl) -aniline, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -amino 2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β, γ-dihydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (β-acetylaminoethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (β-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, 5,8-Diaminobenzo-1,4-dioxane and their physiologically acceptable Salt.
  • Completely according to the invention Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamine derivatives of the formula (E1) are selected from at least one compound of the group p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • It may be further preferred according to the invention as a developer component to use compounds that at least contain two aromatic nuclei containing amino and / or hydroxyl groups are substituted.
  • Among the binuclear developer components which can be used in the dyeing compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (E2) and their physiologically tolerated salts:
    Figure 01940001
    in which:
    • - Z 1 and Z 2 independently of one another are a hydroxyl or NH 2 radical which is optionally substituted by a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, by a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl radical and / or by a bridge Y is substituted or which is optionally part of a bridging ring system,
    • - The bridge Y is an alkylene group having 1 to 14 carbon atoms, such as a linear or branched alkylene chain or an alkylene ring interrupted or terminated by one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl or (C 1 to C 8 ) alkoxy, or a direct bond,
    • G 5 and G 6 independently of one another represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, - (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a direct compound for bridging Y,
    • G 7 , G 8 , G 9 , G 10 , G 11 and G 12 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a direct bond to the bridge Y or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical,
    with the proviso that the compounds of the formula (E2) contain only one bridge Y per molecule.
  • The used in formula (E2) substituents are analogous to the invention defined to the above statements.
  • preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are especially selected from at least one of the following: N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4- (methylamino) phenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-diethyl-N, N'-bis (4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) piperazine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine and 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • All particularly preferred binuclear developer components of the formula (E2) are selected from N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane or one of the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Particular preference is given to p-aminophenol derivatives of the formula (E3)
    Figure 01950001
    in which:
    • G 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl, hydroxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkylamino, (C 1 to C 4 ) hydroxyalkoxy radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl radical or a (di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl] amino) - (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radical , and
    • G 14 is a hydrogen or halogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radical,
    • G 15 is hydrogen, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a phenyl radical or a benzyl radical, and
    • - G 16 is hydrogen or a halogen atom.
  • The used in formula (E3) substituents are analogous to the invention defined to the above statements.
  • preferred p-aminophenols of the formula (E3) are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (β-hydroxyethyl-aminomethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, 4-amino-2-chlorophenol, 4-amino-2,6-dichlorophenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable Salts.
  • All particularly preferred compounds of the formula (E3) are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol.
  • Further For example, the developer component can be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol or 2-amino-4-chlorophenol.
  • Farther For example, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic Developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, Pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiological compatible salts.
  • Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E4) or their physiologically tolerated salts,
    Figure 01970001
    wherein
    • G 17 , G 18 and G 19 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy group or an amino group and
    • G 20 is a hydroxy group or a group -NG 21 G 22 , in which G 21 and G 22 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl group,
    with the proviso that a maximum of two of the groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 is a hydroxy group and at most two of the radicals G 17 , G 18 and G 19 are a hydrogen atom. In this case, it is again preferred if, according to formula (E4), at least two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 represent a group -NG 21 G 22 and at most two groups of G 17 , G 18 , G 19 and G 20 represent a hydroxy group.
  • Especially preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular the compounds 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.
  • Preferred pyrazole derivatives are selected according to the invention from compounds of the formula (E5),
    Figure 01970002
    wherein
    • G 23 , G 24 , G 25 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl group, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl group, a optionally substituted aryl group or an optionally substituted aryl- (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group, with the proviso that when G 25 is a hydrogen atom, G 26 may additionally be a group -NH 2 in addition to the abovementioned groups,
    • G 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl group and
    • G 27 represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted aryl group, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.
  • Preferably in formula (E5) the radical -NG 25 G 26 binds to the 5 position and the radical G 27 to the 3 position of the pyrazole cycle.
  • Especially preferred pyrazole derivatives are in particular the compounds which are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) -3- methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) -pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-Amino-5- (β-aminoethyl) amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, as well their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Preferred pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives are, in particular, the derivatives of the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the following formula (E6) and its tautomeric forms, if a tautomeric equilibrium exists:
    Figure 01980001
    in which:
    • G 28 , G 29 and G 30 , G 31 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical is a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy- (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical which is optionally substituted by an acetyl-ureide or a sulfonyl radical Rest may be protected, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, a di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle with 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl or a di [(C 1 to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl radical,
    • The X radicals independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radical, an aryl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 2 to C 4 ) -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) aminoalkyl radical, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl radical, a di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl] - (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radical, where the dialkyl radicals optionally form a carbon cycle or a heterocycle having 5 or 6 chain members, a (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl or a di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl, an amino, a (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl or di - [(C 1 to C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl] amino, a halogen atom, a carboxylic acid group or a sulfonic acid group .
    • - i has the value 0, 1, 2 or 3,
    • - p has the value 0 or 1,
    • - q has the value 0 or 1 and
    • - n has the value 0 or 1,
    with the proviso that
    • The sum of p + q is not equal to 0,
    • If p + q equals 2, n has the value 0, and the groups NG 28 G 29 and NG 30 G 31 occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
    • If p + q is 1, n is 1, and the groups NG 28 G 29 (or NG 30 G 31 ) and the group OH occupy the positions (2, 3); (5,6); (6,7); (3,5) or (3,7);
  • The used in formula (E7) substituents are analogous to the invention defined to the above statements.
  • When the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine of the above formula (E6) contains a hydroxy group at one of the 2, 5 or 7 positions of the ring system, there is a tautomeric equilibrium shown, for example, in the following scheme:
    Figure 02000001
  • In particular, among the pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E7):
    • - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • 2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • - pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
    • 2,7-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,5-diamine;
    • 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ol;
    • 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-5-ol;
    • 2- (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-ylamino) ethanol;
    • - 2- (7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-ylamino) ethanol;
    • - 2 - [(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;
    • - 2 - [(7-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidin-3-yl) - (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -amino] -ethanol;
    • 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • - 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine-3,7-diamine;
    • 3-amino-7-dimethylamino-2,5-dimethylpyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidine;
    and their physiologically acceptable salts and their tautomeric forms when a tautomeric equilibrium is present.
  • The Pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines of the above formula (E6) can as described in the literature by cyclization starting from an aminopyrazole or hydrazine.
  • All particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group that is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H- imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (α, β-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (β-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, and the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
  • The following are examples of the radicals mentioned as substituents of the compounds of the formulas (E1) to (E6): Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are the groups -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy radicals according to the invention are -OCH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 3 , -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -OCH (CH 3 ) 2 , -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , OCH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -OCH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -OC (CH 3 ) 3 , in particular a methoxy or an ethoxy group.
  • Furthermore, as preferred examples of a (C 1 to C 4 ) monohydroxyalkyl group, -CH 2 OH,
    -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHCH (OH) CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, with the group -CH 2 CH 2 OH being preferred.
  • A particularly preferred example of a (C 2 to C 4 ) polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group.
  • Examples for halogen atoms are F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred examples.
  • Examples of nitrogen-containing groups are in particular -NH 2 , (C 1 to C 4 ) -monoalkylamino groups, (C 1 to C 4 ) -dialkylamino groups, (C 1 to C 4 ) -trialkylammonium groups, (C 1 to C 4 ) -monohydroxyalkylamino groups, Imidazolinium and -NH 3 +
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -monoalkylamino groups are -NHCH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 3 , -NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 3 ,
    -NHCH (CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -dialkylamino group are -N (CH 3 ) 2 , -N (CH 2 CH 3 ) 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) trialkylammonium groups are -N + (CH 3 ) 3 , -N + (CH 3 ) 2 (CH 2 CH 3 ), -N + (CH 3 ) (CH 2 CH 3 ) 2 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino radicals are -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkoxy (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl groups are the groups -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 3 ,
    -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH (CH 3 ), -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -O-CH (CH 3 ).
  • Examples of hydroxy (C 1 to C 4 ) alkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH,
    -O-C H (OH) CH 3, -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -acetylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 ,
    -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH (NHC (O) CH 3 ) CH 3 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHC (O) CH 3 ,
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -carbamoylaminoalkoxy radicals are -O-CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 , -O-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -NH-C (O) -NH 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -aminoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 , -CH 2 CH (NH 2 ) CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -cyanoalkyl radicals are -CH 2 CN, -CH 2 CH 2 CN, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CN.
  • Examples of (C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkylamino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH,
    -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NH-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH.
  • Examples of di [(C 1 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl] amino (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl radicals are -CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 ,
    -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 ,
    -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 N (CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) 2 .
  • One Example of aryl groups is the phenyl group.
  • Examples of aryl (C 1 to C 4 ) alkyl groups are the benzyl group and the 2-phenylethyl group.
  • When Coupler components are usually m-phenylenediamine derivatives, Naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives and heterocyclic compounds used.
  • According to preferred coupler components are
    • - M-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl 3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3-ethylamino-4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro 3-aminophenol,
    • O-aminophenol and its derivatives,
    • - M-Diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene , 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] 4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2- Hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine and 1-amino- 3-bis- (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,
    • O-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,
    • Di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
    • Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
    • Naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
    • Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine,
    • Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
    • Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
    • Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
    • Pyrimidine derivatives such as 4,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4-amino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 2,4-diamino-6-hydroxypyrimidine, 2,4,6-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methylpyrimidine, 2-amino 4-hydroxy-6-methylpyrimidine and 4,6-dihydroxy-2-methylpyrimidine, or
    • - Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene
    and their physiologically acceptable salts.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, Resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned Links.
  • The according to the invention, cosmetic agents the developer components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy.
  • The according to the invention, cosmetic agents the coupler components preferably in an amount of 0.005 to 10 Wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the entire means.
  • The composition of the invention can be used as color-modifying component in the form of the Oxofarbstoffvorprodukte at least one combination of at least one compound of the component
    • 1 compounds containing a reactive carbonyl group with at least one compound of the component
    • 2 compounds selected from (a) CH-acidic compounds, (b) compounds containing primary or secondary amino group or hydroxy group selected from primary or secondary aromatic amines, nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds and aromatic hydroxy compounds.
  • Compounds of the invention having a reactive carbonyl group (also referred to below as reactive carbonyl compounds or component 1) have at least one carbonyl group as reactive A group which reacts with the compounds of component 2 to form a chemical bond linking both components. Further, according to the invention, those compounds are also included as component 1 in which the reactive carbonyl group is derivatized or masked in such a way that the reactivity of the carbon atom of the derivatized or masked carbonyl group with respect to the component 2 is always present. These derivatives are preferably condensation compounds of reactive carbonyl compounds with
    • a) amines and derivatives thereof to form imines or oximes as a condensation compound
    • b) alcohols to form acetals or ketals as a condensation compound
    • c) water to form hydrates as a condensation compound of aldehydes.
  • Component 1 is preferably selected from the group formed from acetophenone, propiophenone, 2-hydroxyacetophenone, 3-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-hydroxyacetophenone, 2-hydroxypropiophenone, 3-hydroxypropiophenone, 4-hydroxypropiophenone, 2-hydroxybutyrophenone, 3-hydroxybutyrophenone, 4-hydroxybutyrophenone, 2,4-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,5-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2,4, 6-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone, 3,4,5-trimethoxyacetophenone diethyl ketal, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-acetophenone, 3,5-dimethoxy-4-hydroxyacetophenone, 4-aminoacetophenone, 4- Dimethylaminoacetophenone, 4-morpholinoacetophenone, 4-piperidinoacetophenone, 4-imidazolinoacetophenone, 2-hydroxy-5-bromo-acetophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-nitroacetophenone, acetophenone-2-carboxylic acid, acetophenone-4-carboxylic acid, benzophenone, 4-hydroxybenzophenone, 2-aminobenzophenone, 4,4'-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,4 , 4'-Trihydroxybenzophenone, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-1-acetonaphthone, 1-hydroxy-2-acetonaphthone, chromone, chromone-2-carboxylic acid, flavone, 3-hydroxyflavone, 3,5,7 Trihydroxyflavone, 4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone, 5,6,7-trihydroxyflavone, quercetin, 1-indanone, 9-fluorenone, 3-hydroxyfluorenone, anthrone, 1,8-dihydroxyanthrone, vanillin, coniferylaldehyde, 2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 3-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 3-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethoxy-benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2, 6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,3-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2,6-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethylbenzaldehyde, 3,5-diethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6- Diethoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzaldehyde, 2-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenz aldehyde, 3-ethoxy-4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-ethoxy-3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,6-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trimethoxybenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,6- Dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,5-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,4-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,3,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,4, 5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 2,5,6-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-2-methoxybenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 4-pyrr olidinobenzaldehyde, 4-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 2-morpholinobenzaldehyde, 4-piperidinobenzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dihydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4- Hydroxy-3-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-methoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 2,4-dimethoxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 3,4-dimethoxy 1-naphthaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-1-naphthaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde, 3,5-dimethoxy-4- hydroxy-cinnamic aldehyde, 4-dimethylaminocinnamaldehyde, 2-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 2-chloro-4-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-diethylaminocinnamaldehyde, 4-dibutylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-diphenylaminobenzaldehyde, 4-dimethylamino-2-yl methoxybenzaldehyde, 4- (1-imidazolyl) benzaldehyde, piperonal, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, 2,3,6,7-tetrahydro-8- hydroxy-1H, 5H-benzo [ij] quinolizine-9-carboxaldehyde, N-ethylcarbazole-3 aldehyde, 2-formylmethylene-1,3,3-trimethylindoline (Fischer's aldehyde or tribasic aldehyde), 2-indolealdehyde, 3-indolealdehyde, 1-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 2-methylindole-3-aldehyde, 1-acetylindole-3 aldehyde, 3-acetylindole, 1-methyl-3-acetylindole, 2- (1 ', 3', 3'-trimethyl-2-indolinylidene) acetaldehyde, 1-methylpyrrole-2-aldehyde, 1-methyl-2- acetylpyrrole, 4-pyridine aldehyde, 2-pyridine aldehyde, 3-pyridine aldehyde, 4-acetylpyridine, 2-acetylpyridine, 3-acetylpyridine, pyridoxal, quinoline-3-aldehyde, quinoline-4-aldehyde, antipyrine-4-aldehyde, furfural, 5- Nitrofurfural, 2-thenoyl-trifluoro-acetone, chromone-3-aldehyde, 3- (5'-nitro-2'-furyl) -acrolein, 3- (2'-furyl) -acrolein, and imidazole-2-aldehyde, 1 , 3-Diacetylbenzene, 1,4-diacetylbenzene, 1,3,5-triacetylbenzene, 2-benzoyl-acetophenone, 2- (4'-methoxybenzoyl) -acetophenone, 2- (2'-furoyl) -acetophenone, 2- 2'-pyridoyl) acetophenone and 2- (3'-pyridoyl) acetophenone, benzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 2-hydroxybenzylideneacetone, 4-methoxybenzylideneacetone, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzy lidenace clay, 4-dimethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3,4-methylenedioxybenzylideneacetone, 4-pyrrolidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-piperidinobenzylideneacetone, 4-morpholinobenzylideneacetone, 4-diethylaminobenzylideneacetone, 3-benzylidene-2,4-pentanedione, 3- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -2,4 penta-dione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -2,4-pentanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclohexanone, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -cyclohexanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -cyclohexanone, 2-benzylidene-1, 3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexanedione, 3- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidene-5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4'-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2- (4 '-Dimethylaminobenzylidene) -5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, 2-benzylidenecyclopentanone, 2' - (4-hydroxybenzylidene) -cyclopentanone, 2- (4'-dimethylaminobenzylidene) -cyclopentanone, 5- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-diethylaminophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-methoxyph enyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (3,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-piperidinophenyl ) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-morpholinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 5- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) penta-2,4-dienal, 6- (4-dimethylaminophenyl) hexa-3, 5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-diethylaminophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-methoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (3 , 4-Dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (2,4-dimethoxyphenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-piperidinophenyl) hexa-3,5 -dien-2-one, 6- (4-morpholinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 6- (4-pyrrolidinophenyl) hexa-3,5-dien-2-one, 5- (4- Dimethylamino-1-naphthyl) penta-3,5-dienal, 2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-methyl-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-hydroxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2-fluoro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 3-methoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-chloro-3-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2- Chloro-6-nitrobenzaldehyde, 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4-C hlor-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 2,4-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2,6-dinitrobenzaldehyde, 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-nitrobenzaldehyde, 4,5-dimethoxy-2-nitrobenzaldehyde, 6-nitropiperonal, 2-nitropiperonal, 5- Nitrovanillin, 2,5-dinitrosalicylaldehyde, 5-bromo-3-nitrosalicylaldehyde, 3-nitro-4-formylbenzenesulfonic acid, 4-nitro-1-naphthaldehyde, 2-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 3-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 4-nitrocinnamaldehyde, 9-methyl-3- carbazolaldehyde, 9-ethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 3-acetylcarbazole, 3,6-diacetyl-9-ethylcarbazole, 3-acetyl-9-methylcarbazole, 1,4-dimethyl-3-carbazolaldehyde, 1,4,9-trimethyl- 3-carbazolaldehyde, 4-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 2-formyl-1-ethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 2 -Formyl-1-benzylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,2-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1,3-dimethylpyridinium, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 2-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 4- Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium, 4-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-methylquinoline m, 6-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-formyl 1-ethylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 5-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-formyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 5 -Formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 6-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 7-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium and 8-formyl-1-allyl-quinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-methyl-quinolinium, 6-acetyl-1 methylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-methylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-ethylquinolinium, 8-acetyl 1-ethylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 6-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 8-acetyl-1-benzylquinolinium, 5-acetyl-1-allylquinolinium, 6 Acetyl-1-allyl quinolinium, 7-acetyl-1-allyl quinolinium and 8-acetyl-1-allyl quinolinium, 9-formyl-10-methylacridinium, 4- (2'-formylvinyl) -1- methylpyridinium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) benzimidazolium, 1,3-dimethyl-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -imidazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium -, 2- (4'-acetylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzoxazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2 ' - (5'-formyl-2'-furyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (5'-formyl-2'-thienyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (3'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium , 2- (4'-Formyl-1-naphthyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 5-chloro-2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3-methylbenzothiazolium, 2- (4'-formylphenyl) -3,5- dimethyl benzothiazolium salts, preferably with benzenesulfonate, p-toluenesulfonate, methanesulfonate, perchlorate, sulfate, chloride, bromide, iodide, tetrachlorozincate, methylsulfate, trifluoromethanesulfonate or tetrafluoroborate as counterion, isatin, 1-methyl-isatin, 1-allyl-isatin, 1 Hydroxymethyl-isatin, 5-chloro-isatin, 5-methoxy-isatin, 5-nitro-isatin, 6-nitro-isatin, 5-sulfoisatin, 5-carboxy-isatin, quinisatin, 1-methylquinisate n, as well as any mixtures of the above compounds.
  • When CH-Acids are generally considered to be compounds which a hydrogen atom bonded to an aliphatic carbon atom carry, due to electron-withdrawing substituents a Activation of the corresponding carbon-hydrogen bond causes becomes. Under CH-acidic compounds are also according to the invention Enamines by alkaline treatment of quaternized N-heterocycles with one in conjugation to the quaternary nitrogen Arise CH-acidic alkyl group.
  • The CH-acidic compounds of component 2 are preferably selected from the group consisting of 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium iodide, 1,2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1, 2,3,3-tetramethyl-3H-indolium methanesulfonate, 1,3,3-trimethyl-2-methylenindoline (Fischer's base), 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium iodide, 2,3-dimethylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 2,3-dimethyl-naphtho [1,2-d] thiazo lium p-toluenesulfonate, 3-ethyl-2-methylnaphtho [1,2-d] thiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, rhodanine, rhodanine-3-acetic acid, 1,4-dimethylquinolinium iodide, 1,2-dimethylquinolinium iodide, barbituric acid, thiobarbituric acid, 1,3-dimethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylthiobarbituric acid, 1,3-diethylbarbituric acid, oxindole, 3-indoxylacetate, 2-coumaranone, 5-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 6-hydroxy-2-cumaranone, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-pyrazolin-5-one, indan-1,2-dione, indan-1,3-dione, indan-1-one, benzoylacetonitrile, 3-dicyanomethylenedan-1-one, 2-amino 4-imino-1,3-thiazoline hydrochloride, 5,5-dimethylcyclohexane-1,3-dione, 2H-1,4-benzoxazine-4H-3-one, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium iodide, 3 Ethyl 2-methyl-benzothiazolium iodide, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium iodide, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium iodide, 1,2,3-trimethylquinoxaluminum iodide, 3-ethyl-2-methylbenzoxazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 3 Ethyl 2-methylbenzothiazolium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-4-methyl-quinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, 1-ethyl-2-methylquinolinium p-toluenesulfonate, and 1,2 , 3-Trimethylchinoxalinium p-toluenesulfonate.
  • Preferred primary or secondary aromatic amines of component 2 are selected from N, N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-methoxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2.5- Dichloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholinoaniline, 2-aminophenol, 3-aminophenol, 4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4- aminophenol, o-phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2,5-diaminotoluene, 2,5-diaminophenol, 2,5-diaminoanisole, 2,5, diaminophenethol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- 2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 3,4- Methylenedioxyaniline, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 4-methylaminophenol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-methyl-5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -phen ol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-methyl-5-amino-4-chlorophenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 2- (diethylaminomethyl) -4-aminophenol, 4-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) -benzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-methylbenzene, 1-hydroxy-2-amino 6-methylbenzene, 2-amino-5-acetamido-phenol, 1,3-dimethyl-2,5-diaminobenzene, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-ol methylphenol, N, N-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 5-amino-4-fluoro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-5-fluorotoluene, 2,4-diamino-5- (2-hydroxyethoxy) toluene, 2,4-diamino-5-methylphenol, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-1-methylbenzene, 2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole, 2,6- Bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 1,3-diamino-2,4-dimethoxybenzene, 3,5-diamino-2-methoxy-toluene, 2-aminobenzoic acid, 3-aminobenzoic acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, 2- Aminophenylacetic acid, 3-aminophenylacetic acid, 4-aminophenylacetic acid, 2,3-diaminobenzoic acid, 2,4-diaminobenzo nzoic acid, 2,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid, 4-aminosalicylic acid, 5-aminosalicylic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 2-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3 -Aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 4-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 4-amino-3-hydroxynaphthalene-1-sulfonic acid, 6-amino-7-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 7-amino-4-hydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid , 4-Amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid, 3-amino-2-naphthoic acid, 3-aminophthalic acid, 5-aminoisophthalic acid, 1,3,5-triaminobenzene, 1,2,4-triaminobenzene, 1,2 , 4,5-tetraaminobenzene, 2,4,5-triaminophenol, pentaaminobenzene, hexaaminobenzene, 2,4,6-triaminoresorcinol, 4,5-diaminobrcatechol, 4,6-diaminopyrogallol, 1- (2-hydroxy-5-aminobenzyl) -2-imidazolidinone, 4-amino-2 - ((4 - [(5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) -methyl] -piperazinyl) -methyl) -phenol, 3,5-diamino-4-hydroxy-catechol, 1,4-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, aromatic nitriles such as 2-amino-4- hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-amino-2-hydroxybenzonitrile, 4-aminobenzonitrile, 2,4-diaminobenzonitrile, amino groups containing nitro groups, such as 3-amino-6-methylamino-2-nitro-pyridine, picric acid, [8 - [(4-amino 2-nitrophenyl) -azo] -7-hydroxynaphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride, [8 - ((4-amino-3-nitrophenyl) -azo) -7-hydroxynaphth-2-yl] -trimethylammonium chloride (Basic Brown 17), 1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4- [bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene, 1-amino-2 - [(2 hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow No. 5), 1-amino-2-nitro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Red No. 7), 2-chloro-5 nitro-N-2-hydroxyethyl-1,4-phenylenediamine, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitro-4-aminobenzene (HC Red No. 3), 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrophenol, 6-nitro-o-toluidine, 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet No. 1), 1-amino 2-nitro-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -5-chlorobenzene (HC Red # 10), 2- (4-amino-2-nitroanilino) benzoic acid, 6-nitro-2, 5-diaminopyridi n, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2- (3-nitrophenylazo) -7-phenylazo-8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Acid blue No. 29), 1- Amino-2- (2-hydroxy-4-nitrophenylazo) -8-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (Palatinchrome green), 1-amino-2- (3-chloro-2-hydroxy-5-nitrophenylazo) -8 naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid disodium salt (gallium), 4-amino-4'-nitrostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid disodium salt, 2,4-diamino-3 ', 5'-dinitro-2'-hydroxy-5 methyl azobenzene (Mordant brown 4), 4'-amino-4-nitrodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4'-amino-3'-nitrobenzophenone-2-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-4-nitro-2- (2-methyl) nitrobenzylideneamino) benzene, 2- [2- (diethylamino) ethylamino] -5-nitroaniline, 3-amino-4-hydroxy-5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, 3-amino-3'-nitrobiphenyl, 3-amino-4-nitroacenaphthene, 2 Amino-1-nitronaphthalene, 5-amino-6-nitrobenzo-1,3-dioxole, anilines, in particular nitro-group-containing anilines, such as 4-nitroaniline, 2-nitroaniline, 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1, 2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 4 Nitro-1,3-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-4-amino-1- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -benzene, 2-nitro-1-amino-4- [bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino] -benzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine 2'-carboxylic acid, 1-amino-5-chloro-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, aromatic anilines or phenols with a further aromatic radical, as shown in the formula II
    Figure 02120001
    in the
    • R 7 represents a hydroxy or amino group represented by C 1-4 alkyl, C 1-4 hydroxyalkyl, C 1-4 alkoxy or C 1-4 alkoxy C 1-4 alkyl groups may be substituted,
    • R 8 , R 9 , R 10 , R 11 and R 12 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl or an amino group which is represented by C 1 -C 4 -alkyl-, C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl, C 1 - C 4 alkoxy, C 1 -C 4 aminoalkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups may be substituted, and
    • • P is a direct bond, a saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by hydroxy groups carbon chain having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a carbonyl, sulfoxy, sulfonyl or imino group, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a group of formula III -Q '- (CH 2 -Q-CH 2 -Q'') o - (III) in the
    • Q signifies a direct bond, a CH 2 or CHOH group,
    • • Q 'and Q''independently represent an oxygen atom, an NR 13 group, wherein R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1-4 alkyl or a hydroxy C 1-4 alkyl group, both of which together with represents a 5-, 6- or 7-membered ring for the remainder of the molecule, the group O- (CH 2 ) p -NH or NH- (CH 2 ) p ' -O, where p and p' are 2 or 3, stand and
    • O is a number from 1 to 4,
    such as 4,4'-diaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4,4'-diaminostilbene-2,2'-disulfonic acid mono- or di-Na salt, 4-amino-4'-dimethylaminostilbene and its hydrochloride, 4, 4'-diaminodiphenylmethane, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylsulfoxide, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine, 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine-2-sulfonic acid, 4,4'-diaminobenzophenone, 4,4'-diaminodiphenyl ether , 3,3 ', 4,4'-tetraamino diphenyl, 3,3', 4,4'-tetraamino-benzophenone, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1,8-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -3,6-dioxaoctane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) propane, 1,3-bis (4-aminophenylamino) -2-propanol, 1,3-bis [N - (4-aminophenyl) -2-hydroxyethylamino] -2-propanol, N, N-bis [2- (4-aminophenoxy) ethyl] methylamine, N-phenyl-1,4-phenylenediamine and bis (5 amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane.
  • The The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form as well as in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, especially as salts of inorganic acids, such as or sulfuric acid.
  • Suitable nitrogen-containing heterocyclic compounds are, for. B. 2-aminopyridine, 3-aminopyridine, 4-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy-pyridine, 2,6-diamino-pyridine, 2,5-diamino-pyridine, 2- (aminoethylamino) -5-aminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-pyridine, 2-dimethylamino-5-amino-pyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxy-pyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy 3,5-diamino-pyridine, 2,4,5-triamino-pyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethyl-pyridine, N- [2- (2,4-diaminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5- amino-2-pyridyl) amine, N- [2- (4-aminophenyl) aminoethyl] -N- (5-amino-2-pyridyl) amine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 4, 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-methylamino-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-diaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diaminopyrimidine, 2-amino-4-methoxy-6-methylpyrimidine, 3,5-diaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1,2,4-triazole, 3-aminopyrazole, 3-amino-5-hydroxypyrazole, 1-phenyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4,5-diaminopyrazole, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole, 4-amino 2,3-dimethyl-1-ph enyl-3-pyrazolin-5-one (4-aminoantipyrine), 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-aminoquinoline, 3-aminoquinoline, 8-aminoquinoline, 4-aminoquinaldine, 2-aminonicotinic acid, 6-aminonicotinic acid , 5-aminoisoquinoline, 5-aminoindazole, 6-aminoindazole, 5-aminobenzimidazole, 7-aminobenzimidazole, 5-aminobenzothiazole, 7-aminobenzothiazole, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-morpholino-aniline and indole and indoline derivatives, such as 4-aminoindole , 5-aminoindole, 6-aminoindole, 7-aminoindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 4-hydroxyindoline. Furthermore, as heterocyclic compounds according to the invention in the DE-U1-299 08 573 disclosed hydroxypyrimidines can be used. The aforementioned compounds can be used both in free form and in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts, for. B. as salts of inorganic acids, such as hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, are used.
  • suitable aromatic hydroxy compounds are, for. 2-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, resorcinol, 3-methoxyphenol, Pyrocatechol, hydroquinone, pyrogallol, phloroglucinol, hydroxyhydroquinone, 2-methoxyphenol, 3-methoxyphenol, 4-methoxyphenol, 3-dimethylaminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) phenol, 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, gallic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,4,6-trihydroxyacetophenone, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 6-Dimethylamino-4-hydroxy-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid and 3,6-dihydroxy-2,7-naphthalenesulfonic acid.
  • The Compounds of component 1 and the compounds of the component 2 are preferably in the cosmetic products in each case Amount of 0.03 to 65 mmol, in particular from 1 to 40 mmol, based to 100 g of the entire Nuanciermittels used. The molar ratio from the compound of component 1 and the compound of the component 2 may range from 0.5 to 2.0, preferably equimolar Quantities are used. The ready-to-use agent is added separate storage of components 1 and 2 immediately before Application made by mixing.
  • When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are preferred as the oxidation dye precursor Of the developer type such indoles and indolines used, at least a hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring, exhibit. These groups can carry further substituents, z. B. in the form of etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation of the amino group. In a second preferred Embodiment contain the colorants at least an indole and / or indoline derivative.
  • Particularly suitable precursors of natural-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline of the formula (IVa),
    Figure 02150001
    in the independently of each other
    • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxy-alkyl group,
    • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
    • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group,
    • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
    • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 ,
    and physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Especially preferred derivatives of indoline are the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid and 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline.
  • Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindoline.
  • Also suitable as precursors of naturally-analogous hair dyes are derivatives of the 5,6-dihydroxyindole of the formula (IVb),
    Figure 02160001
    in the independently of each other
    • R 1 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 -hydroxyalkyl group,
    • R 2 is hydrogen or a -COOH group, where the -COOH group may also be present as a salt with a physiologically compatible cation,
    • R 3 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group,
    • R 4 is hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group or a group -CO-R 6 , in which R 6 is a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl group, and
    • R 5 is one of the groups mentioned under R 4 ,
    • - As well as physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds with an organic or inorganic acid.
  • Especially preferred derivatives of indole are 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.
  • Within of this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and especially the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.
  • preferred direct dyes, which are used in cosmetics as color-modifying Component are nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, Azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive Dyes are those under international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-Ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, Picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.
  • Further, the cosmetic agents may contain a cationic substantive dye. Particularly preferred are
    • (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
    • (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
    • (C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as described for example in the EP-A2-998 908 to which reference is made at this point, are called in the claims 6 to 11.
  • Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:
    Figure 02170001
    Figure 02180001
    Figure 02190001
  • The Compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also available under the terms Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive Dyes of group (c).
  • The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.
  • The Cosmetic agents contain the substantive dyes preferred in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the ready-to-use Medium.
  • Farther can the cosmetic invention Medium also occurring in nature dyes such as, for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, Sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and Alkana root are included.
  • It it is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes in each case uniform compounds represent. Rather, in cosmetic products, due to the production process for the individual dyes, be contained in minor amounts still other components as far as they do not adversely affect the staining result or for other reasons, e.g. B. toxicological, excluded Need to become.
  • With regard to further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of the cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced.
  • The actual oxidative colorant is when stored separately the dye precursors and the oxidizing agent immediately before the application is made by mixing. In a preferred embodiment Therefore, the cosmetic product before application of a Composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color-modifying component, and another Composition containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, mixed.
  • at an application of oxidants becomes the ready to use Preparation expediently immediately before the application by mixing a composition containing the Oxidizing agent with the composition containing the color-changing Components, manufactured. The resulting ready-to-use Hair preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 12, in particular from pH 7.5 to 10, have.
  • For a color change by means of lightening or equation of the hair, in addition to the oxidizing agents, at least one bleach booster is additionally preferred in the cosmetic products according to the invention used.
  • bleach booster are preferred in Blondiermitteln to increase the Blondierwirkung the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide used.
  • When Bleach enhancers can be compounds that are listed under Perhydrolysis conditions aliphatic peroxocarboxylic acids with preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid, be used. Suitable substances are the O- and / or N-acyl groups said C atomic number and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups wear. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular Tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated Glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N-acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl- or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic acid anhydrides, especially phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, especially triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy-2,5-dihydrofuran.
  • When Bleach amplifiers may be preferred according to the invention Carbonate salts, or bicarbonate salts are used. These are preferably selected from the group of ammonium, Alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (in particular Calcium), carbonate salts or bicarbonate salts. Especially Preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, Sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, Dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These most preferred Salts may be used alone or in mixtures thereof of at least two representatives are used as bleaching amplifiers.
  • As bleach booster of the type of monoalkyl carbonates and their derivatives, at least one carbonic acid monoester and / or at least one carbonic acid monoamide are preferably used in the process according to the invention. Preferred carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (V),
    Figure 02210001
    in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • In formula (V), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C 1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized the radical R in formula (V) is selected from Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl as well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • As an alternative to the carbonic acid monoester or in conjunction with it, carbonic acid monoamides can be used as bleach boosters in the anhydrous compositions. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to use at least one carbonic acid monoamide of the formula (VI),
    Figure 02220001
    in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • In formula (VI), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C 1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C 1 -C 6 -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.
  • Particularly according to the invention preferred bleach boosters of formula (VI) are thereby characterized in that the radical R is selected in formula (VI) is methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl as well as hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • The Acid H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide may also be in neutralized form, d. H. it can According to the invention, salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic monoamides are used. Here are Carbonic acid monoester according to the invention or the carbonic acid monoamide, in whole or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, Alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its Sodium salt.
  • As bleach boosters of the type of silyl carbonates and derivatives thereof, at least one silyl carbonate and / or at least one silyl carbamate are preferably incorporated into the compositions according to the invention. Preference is given to using silyl carbonates of the formula (VII)
    Figure 02230001
    in which the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radical R 4 is a chemical bond to the Si atom or one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , is a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among these, the alkyl radicals having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl radicals are preferred, so that preferred anhydrous compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 in the abovementioned formula (VII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • As bleach booster, at least one silyl carbamate of the formula (VIII) may be present in the anhydrous composition according to the invention,
    Figure 02240001
    where the radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or for a trialkylsilyl group, preferably a trimethylsilyl group or for a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle or a halogen, a substituted or unsubstituted hydroxy, oxo, amino groups and the radicals R 4 and R 5 independently of one another for a chemical bond to the Si atom or to one of the radicals R 1 , R 2 or R 3 , a hydrogen atom, a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical or a substituted or unsubstituted silyl or alumino group or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted tuierten heterocycle stand.
  • Preferred radicals R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals. Among them, the alkyl groups having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and the hydroxyalkyl groups are preferred, so that compositions preferably used are characterized in that the groups R 1 , R 2 and R 3 in formula (VIII) are selected from methyl, ethyl, n Propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert-butyl, hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.
  • Preferred radicals R 4 and R 5 in the abovementioned formula (VIII) are hydrogen, substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl radicals and trialkylsilyl radicals. Among them, preferred are hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl and trimethylsilyl radicals.
  • When other additional bleach booster can preferred in the compositions according to the invention at least one compound selected from acetic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, Salicylic acid and ortho-phthalic acid be.
  • bleach booster are preferably peroxo compounds. Among the bleaching according to the invention Peroxo compounds are not subject to the addition of hydrogen peroxide to other components and not even hydrogen peroxide itself. The choice of peroxo compounds is also subject no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are Peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, (in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate, Potassium peroxydisulfate, sodium peroxydisulfate, ammonium persulfate, Potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxide phosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination are According to the inorganic compounds rule prefers. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular Ammonium peroxydisulfate.
  • The Bleach amplifiers are in the inventive, cosmetic agents preferably in amounts of 5-30% by weight, especially in amounts of 8-20 wt .-%, contained.
  • The contain cosmetic agent of the invention when used as a bleaching agent act as a preferred alkalizing agent at least one A compound selected from ammonium, alkali metal and Alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, metasilicates and carbamides, as well as alkali phosphates.
  • The used in the process according to the invention Cosmetic products can continue all for such Preparations known active ingredients, additives and adjuvants include: The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.
  • In In many cases, the agents contain at least one surfactant, in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases However, it has proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from anionic, select zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. The corresponding surfactants have already been described by way of example. Reference will be made to this.
  • Of the pH of the preparations according to the invention can principally at values of 2-11. The pH is depending on the purpose and use of the invention Composition specifically selected and adjusted. For example, it is preferred for colorants between 5 and 11, with values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred are. For cleaning compositions it is for example between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.
  • To adjust this pH, virtually any suitable acid for cosmetic purposes or base can be used. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • Usually are used as acids edible acids. Under consumption acids become such acids understood as part of the usual food intake be absorbed and have positive effects on the human Have an organism. Enjoyable acids are for example Acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, Ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. Within the scope of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred.
  • It was further found that the effect of the invention Active ingredient in the inventive compositions in Combination with substances, which primary or secondary Contain amino groups, can be further increased. As examples for such amino compounds may be mentioned ammonia, Monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol and basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these can Amines also in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids are used, such as as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines are with the inventive Active ingredient together in ratios of 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, and most preferably in stoichiometric Amounts used.
  • Also protic solvents, such as water, and alcohols can in the compositions of the invention be included. As alcohols all find physiologically without hesitation usable alcohols, for example, methanol, ethanol, Isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and their mixtures with each other. The proportion of protic solvents complements in any case, the inventive Composition to 100 parts by weight. Preferred are in the cosmetic Compositions at least 30% by weight of protic solvents, more preferably at least 50% by weight, and most preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least Contain 85 wt .-% protic solvent.
  • Farther may in a most preferred embodiment the invention, the UV filter (I) can be used. The invention according to are used in terms of their structure and their physical properties no general restrictions. On the contrary, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable. their absorption maximum in the UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315 nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly prefers.
  • The According to the invention used UV filter for example, be selected from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexylsalicylate (homosalates), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40, Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 4360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts ( Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1- yl-methane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ® 1789 Eusolex ® 9020), α - (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenq) -toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ® DMO, Escalol ® 507, Eusolex ® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhex ylester (octyl salicylate; Escalol ® 587, Neo Heliopan ® OS, Uvinul ® O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl (isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ® MCX, Escalol ® 557, Neo Heliopan AV ®), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone-4; Uvinul ® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ® 5000, Eusolex ® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3-benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'- ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl } -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ® 20 H, Uvinul ® 400), 1,1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ® OCR, Neo Heliopan ® Type 303, Uvinul ® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (Menthyl Anthranilate; Neo He liopan ® MA), 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (Benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone, 2 Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept- 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethyl ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4 -methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 'ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-ox Oborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.
  • Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.
  • Farther was found to be structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble Compound within the scope of the teaching of the invention the higher effect over such water-soluble Compounds that are distinguished from it by one or more additionally differentiate ionic groups. As water insoluble Within the scope of the invention, UV filters are to be understood which at 20 ° C to not more than 1 wt .-%, in particular to not more than 0.1% by weight, dissolve in water. Farther These compounds should be used in usual cosmetic oil components at room tempera ture to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filter can therefore be preferred according to the invention be.
  • According to one Another embodiment of the invention are those UV filters preferably a cationic group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.
  • These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.
  • The structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function , Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example
    • Substituted benzophenones,
    • P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
    • - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
    • - cinnamic acid ester,
    • Salicylic acid ester,
    • Benzimidazoles and
    • O-aminobenzoic acid ester.
  • structural parts U, derived from cinnamic acid amide or N, N-dimethylamino-benzoic acid amide derive, are preferred according to the invention.
  • The Structural parts U can be chosen in principle be that the absorption maximum of the UV filter both in UVA (315-400 nm) - as well as in UVB (280-315nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range can be. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • Farther becomes the structural part U, also depending on structural part Q, preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above from 20000, lies.
  • The structural part Q preferably contains, as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom. However, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom, a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which acts as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) x -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X - , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are C 1 -4 alkyl groups, R 3 is a C 1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X - is a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 represents either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • physiological Compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, especially chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, Tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • Of course includes the teaching of the invention also the use of a combination of multiple UV filters. As part of In this embodiment, the combination is at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter preferred with a cationic group.
  • The UV filters (I) are used in the invention Usually in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total mean, included. Amounts of 0.4-2.5 % By weight are preferred.
  • Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example
    • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
    • Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
    • Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
    • - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
    • Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
    • Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
    • Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
    • Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
    • - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
    • - cholesterol,
    • Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and salts thereof, Etidronic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids,
    • - swelling and penetrating substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
    • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
    • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
    • - pigments,
    • - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
    • - antioxidants.
  • In terms of additional optional components and the quantities used These components are expressly referred to the person skilled in the art known relevant manuals, z. B. the Monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.
  • The agents according to the invention are subject to their packaging form no restrictions and Can be used as an emulsion, cream, solution, gel or mousse be formulated.
  • One Another object of the invention is a method for purification and care of skin and hair, in which the inventive Composition applied to the skin and / or hair, distributed and after a stay in the range of a few seconds to go is rinsed out again with water for 45 minutes.
  • One Another object of the invention is the use of the invention Composition for cleansing and care of skin and hair, in particular to maintain the moisture of the skin and reduce it Keratolysis and the delay of Wiederanschmutzung skin and hair, especially dry skin and hair damaged hair.
  • When Packaging for the cosmetic compositions of in principle, all of the skilled in the art can known packaging can be used. In particular, these are Crucibles, tubes, bottles, sachets. These are different embodiments possible with regard to form and color. One a transparent share of the packaging is also possible to bring out the aesthetic look.
  • Examples and proofs of effect
  • All Quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.
  • I. Examples of inventive Protein hydrolysates and derivatives from the wool of the vicuna
  • To the known method of acidic, alkaline and / or enzymatic hydrolysis of the prior art The following hydrolyzates and derivatives were obtained from wool Vikunja shown. All information on the concentrations in% by weight are to be understood as after the end of the active asset quantities of active substance obtained. Also, the pH of the pH, which after adjustment of the pH with usual Setting agents was received. The indicated pH was chosen to get the final products with as low as possible Amounts of preservatives, ideally with no preservatives, to have to offset. Furthermore, the following are listed Examples are only examples of the invention and are not for the only representable invention Products. Of course, any molecular weight in both a narrow and a broad molecular weight distribution getting produced.
  • Hydrolyzate 1:
  • mw about 800 to 1000 D, 20% by weight of active substance, pH 3 to 4, pale yellow, clear liquid with very little odor, made with the aid of the alkaline hydrolysis process
  • Hydrolyzate 2
  • mw about 2,000 D, 30% by weight of active substance, pH 3 to 4, pale yellow, clear liquid with low odor, produced by means of the alkaline enzymatic hydrolysis process
  • Hydrolyzate 3:
  • mw about 5000 D, 30 wt .-% of active substance, pH 3 to 4, pale yellow, clear liquid with very little odor, made with the help of the acidic
  • hydrolysis
  • Hydrolyzate 4:
  • mw about 20,000 D, 25% by weight of active substance, pH 3 to 4, yellowish, clear liquid with a slight odor, produced with the aid of the enzymatic-acidic hydrolysis process
  • Hydrolyzate 5:
  • mw about 10000 D, 25% by weight of active substance, pH 3 to 4, yellowish, clear liquid with a slight odor, produced with the help of the enzymatic hydrolysis process
  • Derivative 1: cationized hydrolyzate
  • The hydrolyzate 1 is quaternized by the methods of the prior art with a quaternizing reagent, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-lauryl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halide. Such reagents can be purchased under the trade names Quab ®, for example, from Degussa. The hydrolyzate 1 thus cationized is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 2: cationized hydrolyzate
  • The hydrolyzate 2 is quaternized according to the methods of the prior art with a quaternizing reagent, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-cocyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halide. Such reagents can be purchased under the trade names Quab ®, for example, from Degussa. The hydrolyzate 2 thus cationized is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 3: cationized hydrolyzate
  • The hydrolyzate 1 is quaternized by the prior art methods with a quaternizing reagent, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-stearyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halide. Such reagents can be purchased under the trade names Quab ®, for example, from Degussa. The hydrolyzate 1 thus cationized is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 4: cationized hydrolyzate
  • The hydrolyzate 2 is quaternized by the prior art methods with a quaternizing reagent, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-lauryl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halide. Such reagents can be purchased under the trade names Quab ®, for example, from Degussa. The hydrolyzate 2 thus cationized is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 5: cationized hydrolyzate
  • The hydrolyzate 3 is quaternized by the methods of the prior art with a quaternizing reagent, N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-lauryl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halide. Such reagents can be purchased under the trade names Quab ®, for example, from Degussa. The hydrolyzate 3 thus cationized is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 6: anionic hydrolyzate
  • The Hydrolyzate 1 is prepared by the methods of the prior art by means of known Schotten-Baumann reaction with a fatty acid halide, preferably a fatty acid chloride, in this example the lauric acid chloride, condensed. After that is neutralized, for example, with sodium hydroxide solution. The thus obtained anionic hydrolyzate 1 is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 7: anionic hydrolyzate
  • The Hydrolyzate 2 is by the methods of the prior art means known Schotten-Baumann reaction with a fatty acid halide, preferably a fatty acid chloride, in this example the coconut acid chloride, condensed. After that is neutralized with potassium hydroxide, for example. The thus obtained anionic hydrolyzate 2 is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 8: anionic hydrolyzate
  • The hydrolyzate 3 is prepared according to the methods of the prior art by means of the known Schotten-Baumann reaction with a fatty acid halide, preferably a fatty acid chloride, in this case play the stearic acid, condensed. Following this, for example, neutralized with sodium hydroxide solution. The anionic hydrolyzate 3 thus obtained is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 9: anionic hydrolyzate
  • The Hydrolyzate 2 is by the methods of the prior art means known Schotten-Baumann reaction with a fatty acid halide, preferably a fatty acid chloride, in this example the behenic acid chloride, condensed. After that is neutralized, for example, with sodium hydroxide solution. The thus obtained anionic hydrolyzate 2 is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • Derivative 10: anionic hydrolyzate
  • The Hydrolyzate 2 is by the methods of the prior art means known Schotten-Baumann reaction with a fatty acid halide, preferably a fatty acid chloride, in this example the palmitic acid chloride, condensed. After that is neutralized, for example, with sodium hydroxide solution. The thus obtained anionic hydrolyzate 2 is a pale yellow liquid. The pH is adjusted to about 3-4.
  • II. Formulation Examples:
  • All Of course, formulation examples may be given with all previously described hydrolysates and derivatives from the Wool of Vikunja be formulated. It will be in each of the following Examples always mention only one hydrolyzate or derivative, However, it is according to the invention without disadvantages for the stability or the effect possible every to use any hydrolyzate or derivative of the wool of Vikunja. Examples 1. Shower gel component Wt .-% Na laureth sulfate (70% AS) 12.5 Cocamidopropylbetaine (45% AS) 10.0 Derivative 7 7.5 Polyquaternium-7 1.5 Polyglyceryl-3 caprate 1.0 champagne extract 1.0 Cetiol ® HE 0.5 NaCl 0.4 Acidifier, UV filter, preservative, water ad 100
       Second Deodorant roll-on component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Methocel ® E4M Premium hydroxypropyl hydroxypropyl 0.8 EP (DOW) methylcellulose methylcellulose water 49.2 Hydrolyzate 5 2.0 Hydagen® ® HCMF chitosan chitosan 0.2 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merk) glycolic glycolic acid 0.08 water ad 100 ethanol 25.0 champagne extract 0.5 CETIOL ® HE (Cognis) Polyol fatty acid esters PEG-7 glyceryl 3.0 Cocoate
      Third Deodorant pump spray component Chem. Designation INCI declaration Wt .-% Plantacare® ® 818 UP C8-C16 alkyl oligoglucoside Coco glucoside 4.0 ethanol 40.0 Hydagen® ® CAT triethylcitrate Triethyl citrate 2.0 Hydrolyzate 4 2.5 water ad 100 champagne extract 3.0 HYDAGEN ® DCMF chitosan chitosan 0.1 Glycolic acid (Merk) glycolic acid 0.04 PH value 4.0
       4th After Shave cream component Chem. Designation INCI declaration Wt .-% Emulgade® ® SE Mixture of Glyceryl Stearate (and) 4.0 (Cognis) partial glycerides, Ceteareth-20 (and) Fatty alcohols, Ceteareth-12 (and) Wax star and Cetearyl Alcohol ethoxylated (and) cetyl palmitate fatty alcohols Hydrolyzate 4 3.0 LANETTE O ® (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 MYRITOL ® 312 caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 3.0 (Cognis) capric triglycerides CETIOL ® PGL (Cognis) Hexyldecanol (and) 7.0 Hexyldecyl laurate DC® 190 (Dow Dimethicone 0.5 Corning) Gluadin® ® AGP Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Wheat 0.5 (Cognis) wheat protein allantoin 0.1 Panthenol (50%) 0.5 water ad 100 champagne extract 3.0 CETIOL ® PGL Hexyldecanol (and) 1.0 (Cognis) Hexyldecyl laurate KOH, 20% Potasium hydroxides 0.5 HYDAGEN ® B bisabolol 0.2 (Cognis) ethanol 10.0
       5th Moisturizer with Vitamin E component Chem. Designation INCI declaration Wt .-% EMULGADE ® PL 68/50 Mixture off Cetearyl Glucosides 5.0 Alkylpolyglycoside and (and) cetearyl alcohol Cetylstearylalkohol LANETTE ® E powder sodium cetylstearyl Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 0.25 (Cognis) CUTINA ® GMS glycerol Glyceryl stearate 2.0 (Cognis) Hydrolyzate 5 1.0 MYRITOL ® 312 caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 5.0 (Cognis) capric triglycerides CETIOL LC ® (Cognis) caprylic / Coco-caprylate / caprate 5.0 Capric acid esters of saturated Fatty alcohols C12-C 18 EUTANOL ® G 16 2-hexyl decanol hexyldecanol 2.0 (Cognis) (Guerbet alcohol) ® F Copherol® 1300 RRR (α) tocopherol tocopherol 1.0 (Cognis) Wacker silicone oil AK Dimethicone 0.5 350 (Wacker) champagne extract 1.5 Glycerin 86% 3.0 D-panthenol USP 0.5 water ad 100 Viscosity (mPas), Brook. RVF, 23 ° C, sp. TE, 4 rpm, 150000 with Helipath
       6th Rich night care component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% EMULGADE ® PL 68/50 Mixture off Cetearyl Glucosides 3.0 (Cognis) Alkylpolyglycoside and cetylstearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl alcohol LANETTE O ® (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 CETIOL J ® 600 (Cognis) Liquid wax ester Oleyl erucate 4.0 CETIOL ® V (Cognis) oleate Decyl Oleate 4.0 CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl ether 4.0 Hydrolyzate 5 2.5 Myritol ® 318 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 3.5 capric triglycerides Baysilon ® M 350 (Bayer) Dimethicone 0.5 ® F Copherol® 1300 RRR (α) tocopherol tocopherol 1.0 (Cognis) water ad 100 Glycerin 86% 3.0 Carbopol ® 981 at 2% Carbomer 10.0 KOH 20% 0.3 LIPOCUTIN ® (Cognis) Aqua (and) lecithin 5.0 (and) cholesterol (and) Decetyl phosphates champagne extract 2.0 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, Sp. TE, 4 rpm, with Helipath 137500
       7th All Purpose cream component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYMULS ® PGPH Polyglycerol poly-12- Polyglycerylpoly-12 4.5 (Cognis) hydroxystearate hydroxystearate MYRITOL ® 331 (Cognis) Cocoglycerides 5.0 Hydrolyzate 4 1.0 CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 champagne extract 1.0 Zinc stearate (Bärlocher) Zincstearate 1.0 Glycerine (86%) 5.0 MgSO 4 .7H 2 O 0.5 water ad 100 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4 Upm, with Helipath about 200,000
       8th. Rich W / O cream component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYMULS ® PGPH Polyglycerol poly-12- Polyglycerylpoly-12 3.0 (Cognis) hydroxystearate hydroxystearate LAMEFORM ® TGI Triglycerindiisostearat Polyglyceryl-3 3.0 (Cognis) Diisostearate Beeswax 8100 (Fa. beeswax Cera Alba 3.0 Kahl & Co.) Hydrolyzate 3 1.0 Zincum ® N 29 (Fa. zinc stearate Zinc stearate 1.0 Baerlocher) CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl ether 3.0 CETIOL LC ® (Cognis) Caprylic / Caprinsäureester Coco 6.0 from saturated Caprylate / caprate Fatty alcohols C12-C18 Myritol ® 312 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 8.0 capric triglycerides Almond Oil almond oil Almond Oil 8.0 champagne extract 1.0 ® F Copherol® 1300 RRR (α) tocopherol tocopherol 1.0 (Cognis) glycerin 5.0 MgSO 4 .7H 2 O 1.0 water ad 100 Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF, 23 ° C, spindle TE, 4 Upm, with Helipath 150000
       9th Naturally sounding day cream component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Emulgade® ® SE Mixture of partial glycerides, Glyceryl Stearate (and) 6.0 (Cognis) Fatty alcohols, wax esters Ceteareth-20 (and) and ethoxylated Ceteareth-12 (and) fatty alcohols Cetearyl Alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate CUTINA ® MD (Cognis) Mixture of mono and Glyceryl stearate 2.0 Diglycerides of palmitin and stearic acid Hydrolyzate 3 1.0 CETIOL ® MM (Cognis) myristate Myristyl myristate 1.0 MYRITOL ® 312 Caprylic / capric Caprylic / Capric 5.0 (Cognis) triglycerides CETIOL SN ® (Cognis) Esters of a branched Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0 Fatty acid with saturated Fatty alcohols C16-C18 CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl ether 5.0 Grape Seed Oil Grape Seed Oil 0.5 Copherol® ® 1250 RRR (α) tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate 1.0 (Cognis) champagne extract 2.0 Eusolex ® 8020 (Merck) 4 isopropyl 1.0 dibenzoylmethane Vitamin A palmitate 0.2 Titanium dioxide 1.0 talc 1.0 Glycerin 86% 5.0 water ad 100 KOH, 20% Potasium hydroxides 0.3
       10th lipstick component Chem. Designation INCI name % Myritol ® 318 (Cognis) caprylic / Caprylic / Capric 14.0 capric triglycerides MYRITOL ® PC (Cognis) Propylene glycol octanoate / Propylene glycol 6.0 decanoate Dicaprylate / dicaprate EUTANOL G ® (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 17.0 (Guerbet alcohol) Candelilla wax Candelilla cera 7.0 Carnauba wax Carnauba cera 5.5 Beeswax 8100 (Kahl) Cera alba 6.5 Hydrolyzate 5 0.5 GenerolTM ® 122 N Refined soy protein Soybean (Glycine soy) 2.5 (Cognis) sterol MONOMULS ® 90 L 12 molecular Distilled Glyceryl laurate 3.0 (Cognis) lauric DEHYMULS ® PGPH Polyglycerol poly-12- Polyglyceryl-2 4.0 (Cognis) hydroxystearate Dipolyhydroxystearate Castor oil Ricinus communis 18.0 champagne extract 1.0 color pigments 2.0 Hydagen® ® CMF Chitosan solution Chitosan glycolate 10.0 (Cognis) ® F Copherol® 1300 RRR (α) tocopherol tocopherol 2.0 (Cognis)
       11th Cold wave fixing component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYTON ® K (Cognis) Genuine betaine. Cocamidopropyl 6.0 Fatty acid amide derivative with betaine structure (about 32%) Betaine NUTRILAN ® H Protein partial hydrolyzate (approx. Hydrolyzed collagen 5.0 (Cognis) 36%) LAMEQUAT ® L cationized Laurdimonium 3.0 (Cognis) Protein hydrolyzate (about 36%) hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed collagen Hydrolyzate 1 1.0 hydrogen peroxide 7.5 35% Keltrol T (1% swelling) Xanthan gum 15.0 water ad 100 champagne extract 1.0 PH value 3.5
      12th Coldwell fixation, emulsion-shaped component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYQUART® ® C 4046 Mixture of esterquat, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 3.0 (Cognis) Fatty alcohol and nonionic emulsifier Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates (and) Ceteareth-20 water ad 100 TURPINAL ® SL (Cognis) Etidronic Acid 0.3 Derivative 1 1.0 Hydrogen peroxides (35%) Hydrogen peroxides 7.5 PLANTACARE ® 2000 UP C8-C16 Decyl glucosides 1.0 (Cognis) Fettalkoholglycosid champagne extract 0.5 PH value 2.7 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVT, 23 ° C, Sp. TC, 10 rpm 3600
       13th sprayable conditioner, leave-on component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Monomuls® ® 60-35 C Hydrogenated palm glycerides Hydrogenated Palm 1.24 (Cognis) Glycerides Eumulgin ® B 1 Polyoxyethylene-12- Ceteareth-12 2.76 (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Derivative 3 2.0 CETIOL ® S (Cognis) Hydrocarbon Dioctylcyclohexane 9.0 CETIOL ® OE (Cognis) Di-n-octyl ether Dicaprylyl ether 9.0 Dow Corning DC 345® , Cyclomethicone 2.0 (Dow Corning) champagne extract 2.0 carnitintartrat 0.5 caffeine 0.5 water ad 100 Gluadin ® WQ (Cognis) cationized Laurdimonium 1.0 Wheat protein hydrolyzate hydroxypropyl (about 31%) Hydrolyzed Wheat protein PLANTACARE ® 2000 UP C8-C16 Decyl glucosides 1.00 (Cognis) Fatty alcohol glycoside (ca. 50%)
       14th Leave-on hair cure component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYQUART ® F 75 Mixture of esterquat Distearoylethyl 0.7 (Cognis) and fatty alcohol Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates (and) Cetearyl Alcohol DEHYMULS ® PGPH Polyglycerol poly-12- Polyglyceryl-2 1.0 (Cognis) hydroxystearate Dipolyhydroxystearate LANETTE O ® (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 Derivative 4 1.5 EUTANOL G ® (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 0.2 (Guerbet alcohol) CETIOL J ® 600 (Cognis) Liquid wax ester Oleyl erucate 0.1 PLANTACARE ® 1200 C12-C16 Lauryl glucoside 2.5 UP (Cognis) Fatty alcohol glycoside (ca. 50%) pantolactone 1.0 champagne extract 4.0 carnitintartrat 2.0 taurine 1.0 Ecchinaceaextrakt 1.0 caffeine 2.0 water ad 100 GLUADIN ® W 40 Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Wheat 2.0 (Cognis) Wheat (about 40%) protein Panthenol (50%) 0.7 PH value 4 Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield, RVF 23 ° C, spindle 5, 10 rpm 6800
       15th Leave-on hair cure component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Sea Urchin ® 305 (Seppic) Polyacrylamides (and) 3.0 C13-14 isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 COMPERLAN ® KD Kokosfettsäurediethanol Cocamide DEA 2.0 (Cognis) amide pantolactone 3.0 champagne extract 2.0 carnitintartrat 2.0 taurine 1.0 caffeine 1.0 Echinacea extract 2.0 water ad 100 Derivative 5 1.5 PLANTACARE ® 1200 UP C12-C16 Lauryl glucoside 0.5 (Cognis) Fatty alcohol glycoside (ca. 50%) CETIOL J ® 600 (Cognis) Liquid wax ester Oleyl erucate 0.5 Copherol® ® 1250 RRR (α) - tocopherol 0.2 (Cognis) tocopheryl acetate Gluadin® ® ALMOND Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Sweet 3.0 (Cognis) Almonds (about 22%) Almond protein Gluadin ® WQ (Cognis) cationized Laurdimonium 0.8 Wheat protein hydrolyzate hydroxypropyl (about 31%) Hydrolyzed Wheat protein ethanol 10.0 PH value 7 Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 6700
       16th hair conditioner component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYQUART® ® C 4046 Mixture of esterquat, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 4.0 (Cognis) Fatty alcohol and Dipalmitoylethyl nonionic emulsifier Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates (and) Ceteareth20 CETIOL SN ® (Cognis) Esters of a branched Cetearyl Isononanoate 1.0 Fatty acid with saturated Fatty alcohols C16-C18 Derivative 1 1.0 Gluadin® ® ALMOND Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Sweet 2.1 (Cognis) Almonds (about 22%) Almond protein champagne extract 1.5 water ad 100 PH value 3.5 Viscosity (mPas) / Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4000
       17th conditioner component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Dehyquart ® L 80 (Cognis) Mixture of esterquat Dicocoylethyl 0.9 and propylene glycol (ca. Hydroxyethylmonium 75%) Methosulfates (and) Propylene glycol LANETTE O ® (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 3.5 Derivative 2 2.0 Monomuls® ® 60-35 C Hydrogenated palm glycerides Hydrogenated Palm 1.0 (Cognis) Glycerides Eumulgin ® B 2 Polyoxyethylene-20- Ceteareth-20 0.8 (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol COSMEDIA ® GUAR C Guarhydroxypropyl- Guar hydroxypropyl 0.3 261 (Cognis) trimethyl-ammonium Trimonium chlorides chloride champagne extract 2.0 water ad 100 PH value 3.5
       18th hair mask component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYQUART ® F 75 Mix off Distearoylethyl 3.0 (Cognis) Esterquat and Hydroxyethylmonium fatty alcohol Methosulfates (and) Cetearyl Alcohol LANETTE O ® (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Derivative 5 3.0 CUTINA GMS ® (Cognis) glycerol Glyceryl stearate 1.0 Eumulgin ® B 2 Polyoxyethylene-20- Ceteareth-20 1.5 (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol champagne extract 2.0 NUTRILAN ® KERATIN W Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Kerstin 5.0 (Cognis) Kerstin (about 20%) panthenol 0.8 Aloe vera gel 2.0 water ad 100 PH value 3-4
       19th Intensivhaarkur component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYQUART ® L 80 Mixture of esterquat Dicocoylethyl 2.5 (Cognis) and propylene glycol (ca. Hydroxyethylmonium 75%) Methosulfates (and) Propylene glycol CUTINA GMS ® (Cognis) glycerol Glyceryl stearate 0.5 Derivative 4 3.0 LANETTE O ® (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Hydagen® ® HSP Trimethylolpropane- 0.5 (Cognis) Hydroxymethylstearate- ether champagne extract 3.0 Lamesoft ® PO 65 Mixture off Coco Glucosides (and) 2.5 (Cognis) Alkyl polyglycoside and fatty acid monoglyceride Glyceryl Oleate water ad 100 PH value 3.5 Viscosity (mPas), Brook. RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4400
       20th Haarspitzenfliud component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Hydagen® ® HCMF Chitosan powder chitosan 0.4 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merck) Glycolic acid 0.2 Hydrolyzate 1 1.0 Glycerin 86% 55.0 Tylose ® H 100,000 YP 0.4 (Maximum) champagne extract 3.0 Plantacare® ® 818 UP 2.0 Gluadin ® R (Cognis) Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed rice protein 4.0 Rice (about 27%) (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable protein Panthenol 50% 1.0 ethanol 10.0 water ad 100 PH value 4.5
       21st Leave-on hair milk component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% DEHYQUART ® L 80 Mix off Dicocoylethyl 2.0 (Cognis) Finishing agent and Hydroxyethylmonium Propylene Glycol (approx. Methosulfates (and) 75%) Propylene glycol Hydrolyzate 2 2.0 Lamesoft ® PO 65 Mixture off Coco Glucoside (and) 2.0 (Cognis) Alkylpolyglycoside and Glyceryl Oleate fatty acid monoglyceride champagne extract 2.0 water ad 100 PH value 3.5
      22nd Pump spray lotion component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Hydagen® ® HCMF Chitosan powder chitosan 1.0 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merk) 0.4 champagne extract 0.5 Hydrolyzate 1 0.5 PLANTACARE ® 1200 UP C12-C16 fatty alcohol Lauryl glucoside 0.2 (Cognis) hollycoside (about 50%) Gluadin ® WQ (Cognis) cationized Laurdimonium 1.0 wheat protein Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed hydrolyzate Wheat protein ethanol 40.0 water ad 100 PH value 4.0
       23rd mousse component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Hydagen® ® HCMF Chitosan powder chitosan 0.4 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merck) glycolic acid 0.2 champagne extract 1.0 DEHYQUART® ® A cetyltrimethylammonium Cetrimonium chlorides 1.0 (Cognis) chloride (about 25%) Hydrolyzate 2 1.0 GLUADIN ® W 40 Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Wheat 2.0 (Cognis) Wheat (about 40%) protein water ad 100
      24th Styling Wax component Chem. Designation INCI name % CUTINA ® MD (Cognis) Mixture of mono and Glyceryl stearate 5.0 Diglycerides of palmitic and stearic acid Eumulgin ® B 1 Polyoxyethylene-12- Ceteareth-12 1.0 (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol CETIOL ® V (Cognis) oleate Decyl Oleate 5.0 Paraffin oil 10.0 Hydrolyzate 5 0.5 Hydagen® ® HCMF Chitosan powder chitosan 0.8 (Cognis) Glycolic acid (Merck) 0.4 champagne extract 1.0 water ad 100
       25th 2-in-1 shampoo component Chem: name INCI name Wt .-% TEXAPON ® N 70 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12.0 (Cognis) with 2 mol EO (about 70%) DEHYTON ® PK 45 Fatty acid amide derivative with Cocamidopropyl 2.5 (Cognis) Betgin structure (about 45%) Betaine PLANTACARE ® 818 UP C8-C16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 3.0 (Cognis) glycoside (about 50%) Derivative 6 3.0 Lamesoft ® PO 65 Coco Glucosides (and) Coco Glucosides (and) 3.0 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate COSMEDIA ® GUAR C Guarhydroxypropyltri Guar hydroxypropyl 0.3 261 N (Cognis) methyl-ammonium chloride Trimonium chlorides EUPERLAN ® PK 1200 Liquid dispersion of Coco Glucosides (and) 5.0 (Cognis) pearlescent Glycol Distearate (and) Substances and aids glycerin sodium chloride 1.2 pantolactone 0.3 champagne extract 1.0 caffeine 1.0 carnitintartrat 1.0 Euxyl ® K 400 (peel & 0.1 Mayr) water ad 100 PH value 5.5 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RFT, 23 ° C, Sp.4, 10 rpm 6300
       26th conditioning shampoo component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% TEXAPON ® N 70 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10.0 (Cognis) with 2 mol EO (about 70%) PLANTACARE ® 818 UP C8-C16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 4.0 (Cognis) glycoside (about 50%) DEHYTON ® K (Cognis) Fatty acid amide derivative Cocamidopropyl betaines 5.0 with betaine structure (approx. 30%) Lamesoft ® PO 65 Coco Glucosides (and) Coco Glucoside (and) 1.5 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate Derivative 1 1.5 EUPERLAN ® PK 3000 Liquid dispersion of Glycol Distearate (and) 3.2 AM (Cognis) pearlescent Laureth 4 (and) Substances and amphoteric surfactant Cocamidopropyl betaines panthenol 1.5 champagne extract 2.0 carnitintartrat 1.0 caffeine 1.0 taurine 1.0 Ecchinaceaextrakt 1.0 Vitamin E 0.5 Polymer JR® 400 Polyquaternium 10 0.3 (Amerchol) sodium chloride 1.5 water ad 100 PH value 5.5 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 8500
       27th Baby shampoo component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% water ad 100 Polymer ® JR 400 Polyquaternium-10 0.4 (Amerchol) TEXAPON ® K 14 S Natriumlaurylmyristylether Sodium Myreth 11.0 Special 70% (Cognis) sulphate (about 70%) Sulfate DEHYTON ® PK 45 Fatty acid amide derivative Cocamidopropyl 5.0 (Cognis) with betaine structure (approx. Betaine 45%) PLANTACARE ® 818 UP C8-C16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 5.0 (Cognis) glycoside (about 50%) Derivative 8 2.0 Lamesoft ® PO 65 Coco Glucosides (and) Coco Glucosides (and) 5.0 (Cognis) Glyceryl Oleate Glyceryl Oleate Euxyl ® K 400 (peel & 1,2-dibromocyanobutane 0.1 Mayr) and 2-phenoxyethanol sodium chloride 1.8 champagne extract 2.5 PH value 5.5 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 3900
       28th Pearlescent care shampoo component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% TEXAPON ® NSO Sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 29.0 (Cognis) (about 28%) PLANTACARE ® 818 UP C8-C16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 5.0 (Cognis) glycoside (about 50%) TEXAPON ® SB 3 KC Sulfobernsteinsäurehalb Disodium Laureth 3.8 (Cognis) esters based on an alkyl polyglycol ether, Di sulfosuccinates Na salt (about 40%) Derivative 9 2.0 Hydagen® ® HSP Trimethylolpropane- 0.5 (Cognis) Hydroxymethylstearate- ether champagne extract 1.0 EUPERLAN ® PK 3000 Liquid dispersion of Glycol Distearate (and) 3.0 AM (Cognis) pearlescent Laureth-4 (and) Substances and ahmphotensid Cocamidopropyl Betaine NaCl 2.0 water ad 100 PH value 5.5 Viscosity (mPas), Brook. RVF, 23 ° C, spindle 4, 10 rpm 4100
       29th Cream hair color component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Lanette ® O (Cognis) Cetylstearylalkohol Cetearyl Alcohol 17.0 CUTINA ® AGS (Cognis) Ethylene glycol Glycol distearate 1.5 Eumulgin ® B2 (Cognis) Polyoxyethylene-20- Ceteareth-20 3.0 Cetylstearylalkohol Eumulgin ® B1 (Cognis) Polyoxyethylene-12- Ceteareth-12 3.0 Cetylstearylalkohol Eumulgin ® O5 (Cognis) Polyoxyethylene 5- Oleth-5 1.0 oleyl cetyl alcohol Eumulgin ® O10 (Cognis) Polyoxyethylene-10- Oleth-10 1.0 oleyl cetyl alcohol COMPERLAN ® KD Kokosfettsäurediethanol Cocamide DEA 5.0 (Cognis) amide water ad 100 Hydrolyzate 1 1.0 DEHYQUART ® L 80 Mixture of esterquat Dicocoylethyl 1.5 (Cognis) and propylene glycol Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfates (and) Propylene glycol propylene glycol 5.0 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85 2-methyl 0.14 6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42 champagne extract 1.0 sodium 0.6 EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2 Ammonia, 28% 5.0
       30th foam bath component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% TEXAPON ® NSO Sodium lauryl ether sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate 27.0 (about 28%) PLANTACARE ® 818 UP C8-C16 fatty alcohol Coco Glucoside 9.0 glycoside (about 50%) DEHYTON ® PK 45 Genuine betaine, Cocamidopropyl 4.0 Fatty acid amide derivative Betaine with betaine structure (approx. 45%) Derivative 10 1.5 GLUADIN ® W 40 Partialhydrolysat from Hydrolyzed Wheat 4.0 wheat protein champagne extract 1.0 sodium chloride Sodium Chloride 0.3 water ad 100
       31st cleansing milk component Chem. Designation INCI name Wt .-% Emulgade® ® SE Mixture of partial Glyceryl Stearate (and) 6.0 (Cognis) glycerides, fatty alcohols, wax esters and ethoxy Ceteareth 20 (and) lated fatty alcohols Ceteareth 12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl palmitate EUTANOL G ® (Cognis) 2-octyldodecanol octyldodecanol 7.0 (Guerbet alcohol) champagne extract 2.0 CETIOL ® 868 (Cognis) isooctyl Octyl stearate 8.0 Derivative 7 1.0 Glycerin 86% 3.0 Carbopol ® 981 (Goodrich) Carbomer / 2% 10.0 swelling NaOH 10% 0.8 water ad 100 Viscosity (mPas), Brookfield RVF, 23 ° C, spindle. 5, 10 rpm 8000
       32nd hair conditioner Eumulgin ® B2 1 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart® ® A-CA 2 2.0 Salcare ® SC 96 3 1.0 champagne extract 1.0 Hydrolyzate 2 2.0 citric acid 0.4 Gluadin® ® WQ 4 2.0 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Phenonip®5 0.8 water ad 100
    • 1 cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
    • 2 trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride approx. 25% active ingredient (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)
    • 3 N, N, N-Trimethyl-2 [(methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] ethanaminium chloride homopolymer (50% active ingredient; INCI name: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprilate dicaprate (and) PPG -1 Trideceth-6) (ALLIED COLLOIDS)
    • 4 Cationized wheat protein hydrolyzate approx. 31% active ingredient (INCI name: Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)
    • 5 -hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid ethyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester-hydroxybenzoic acid-butyl ester-phenoxyethanol mixture (about 28% active ingredient, INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) (NIPA)
       33rd hair conditioner Eumulgin ® B2 0.3 Cetyl / stearyl 3.3 isopropyl 0.5 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt. DAB 9 0.3 Dehyquart ® L 80 6 0.4 Derivative 1 0.5 Cosmedia® guar ® C 261 1.5 Promois® ® Milk-CAQ 6 3.0 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 citric acid 0.4 Phenonip ® 0.8 water ad 100
    • 6 bis (cocoylethyl) -hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium-methosulfate (about 76% active substance in propylene glycol, INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, propylene glycol) (COGNIS)
    • 7 guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride; INCI name: Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride (COGNIS)
    • 8 INCI name: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein (SEIWA KASEI)
      34th conditioner Dehyquart ® F75 9 4.0 Cetyl / stearyl 4.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 1.5 Dehyquart® ® A-CA 4.0 Hydrolyzate 1 1.0 champagne extract 2.0 caffeine 1.0 taurine 0.5 carnitintartrat 3.0 Salcare ® SC 96 1.5 Amisafe-LMA- 60®10 1.0 Gluadin ® W 20 11 3.0 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ® 0.8 water ad 100
    • 9 fatty alcohols-Methyltriethanolammoniummethylsulfatdialkylester mixture (INCI name: distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)
    • 10 INCI name hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl / myristyl ether HCl (Ajinomoto)
    • 11 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (20% active in water, INCI name: Aqua (and) Hydrolized Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (COGNIS)
       35th conditioner Dehyquart® ® L80 2.0 Cetyl / stearyl 6.0 Paraffin oil perliquidum 15 cSt DAB 9 2.0 Rewoquat ® W 75 12 2.0 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Hydrolyzate 3 0.75 champagne extract 2.0 Copherol 1200 (Vitamin E) 1.0 Cosmedia® guar ® C261 0.5 Sepigel ® 305 13 3.5 Honeyquat ® 50 14 1.0 Gluadin® ® WQ 2.5 Gluadin® ® W 20 3.0 citric acid 0.15 Phenonip ® 0.8 water ad 100
    • 12 1-Methyl-2-nortalgalkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethylimidazolinium methosulfate (about 75% active ingredient in propylene glycol, INCI name: Quaternium-27, propylene glycol) (WITCO)
    • 13 Copolymer of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and) C 13 -C 14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7) (SEPPIC)
    • 14 INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (BROOKS)
      36th conditioner Dehyquart® ® F75 0.3 Salcare ® SC 96 5.0 Gluadin® ® WQ 1.5 Hydrolyzate 1 0.5 Dow Corning® 200 Fluid, 5 cSt. 15 1.5 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 champagne extract 0.5 Gafquat ® 755N 16 1.5 Biodocarb ® 17 0.02 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100
    • 15 polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone) (DOW CORNING)
    • 16 Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, quaternized with diethyl sulfate (19% active substance in water, INCI name: Polyquaternium-11) (GAF)
    • 17 3-iodo-2-propynyl-n-butylcarbamate (INCI name: iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) (MILKER & GREENING)
      37th conditioner Sea urchin ® 305 5.0 Dow Corning ® Q2-5220 18 1.5 Promois ® Milk Q 19 3.0 Hydrolyzate 1 1.0 champagne extract 1.0 Polymer P1 accordingly DE 3929173 0.6 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Genamin ® DSAC 20 0.3 Phenonip ® 0.8 perfume oil 0.25 water ad 100
     
    • 18 silicone glycol copolymer (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol) (DOW CORNING)
    • 19 INCI name Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein approx. 30% active substance (SEIWA KASEI)
    • 20 Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
      38th shampoo Texapon.RTM ® NSO 21 40.0 Dehyton ® G 22 6.0 Derivative 7 2.5 Polymer JR 400 ®23 0.5 Cetiol ® HE 24 0.5 Ajidew ® NL 50 25 1.0 Gluadin® ® WQT 26 2.5 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 champagne extract 1.0 carnitintartrat 0.5 taurine 0.5 caffeine 0.5 Coenzyme Q10 0.005 Gluadin® ® W 20 0.5 Panthenol (50%) 0.3 Vitamin E 0.1 Vitamin H 0.1 citric acid 0.5 sodium benzoate 0.5 Perfume 0.4 NaCl 0.5 water ad 100
    • 21 sodium lauryl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)
    • 22 INCI name: Sodium cocoamphoacetate approx. 30% active ingredient (COGNIS)
    • 23 quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (UNION CARBIDE)
    • 24 Polyol fatty acid esters (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (COGNIS)
    • 25 sodium salt of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid (AJINOMOTO)
    • 26 INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (COGNIS)
      39th shampoo Texapon.RTM ® NSO 43.0 Dehyton ® K 27 10.0 Plantacare ® 1200 UP 28 4.0 Derivative 6 3.0 Euperlan ® PK 3000 29 1.6 Arquad ® 316 30 0.8 Polymer JR® 400 0.3 Gluadin® ® WQ 4.0 Glucamate DOE 120 ® 31 0.5 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 Coenzyme Q 10 0.005 caffeine 0.5 carnitintartrat 0.5 champagne extract 1.0 sodium chloride 0.2 water ad 100
    • 27 INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine approx. 30% active ingredient (COGNIS)
    • 28 C12-C16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: lauryl glucoside) (COGNIS)
    • 29 Liquid dispersion of pearlescent agents and amphoteric surfactant (ca. 62% active substance; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate (and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocoamidopropyl Betaine) (Cognis)
    • 30 Tri-C 16 -alkylmethylammonium chloride (AKZO)
    • 31 ethoxylated methylglucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate) (AMERCHOL)
      40th shampoo Texapon ® N 70 32 21.0 Plantacare ® 1200 UP 8.0 Derivative 8 3.5 Gluadin® ® WQ 1.5 Cutina ® EGMS 33 0.6 Honeyquat ® 50 34 2.0 Ajidew ® NL 50 2.8 Antil ® 141 35 1.3 champagne extract 0.5 carnitine 0.25 tartaric acid 0.25 Coenzyme Q 10 0.005 caffeine 0.5 panthenol 0.5 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 sodium chloride 0.2 magnesium hydroxide ad pH 4.5 water ad 100
    • 32 sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 mol EO approx. 70% active substance (INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (COGNIS)
    • 33 ethylene glycol monostearate (about 25-35% monoester, 60-70% diester, INCI: name: glycol stearate) (COGNIS)
    • 34 INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey (about 50% active ingredient) (BROOKS)
    • 35 Polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40% active ingredient, INCI name: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT)
       41st shampoo Texapon ® K 14 S 36 50.0 Dehyton ® K 10.0 Plantacare ® 818 UP 37 4.5 Derivative 9 4.0 Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6 Cutina ® AGS 38 2.0 D-panthenol 0.5 glucose 1.0 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone 0.5 champagne extract 0.5 caffeine 0.5 salicylic acid 0.4 sodium chloride 0.5 Gluadin® ® WQ 2.0 water ad 100
    • 36 sodium lauryl myristyl ether sulfate approx. 28% active ingredient (INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (COGNIS)
    • 37 C8-C16 fatty alcohol glycoside approx. 50% active ingredient (INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (COGNIS)
    • 38 ethylene glycol stearate (about 5-15% monoester, 85-95% diester, INCI name: glycol distearate) (COGNIS)
      42nd conditioner Celquat ® L 200 39 0.6 Luviskol ® K30 40 0.2 D-panthenol 0.5 Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.6 Dehyquart® ® A-41 CA 1.0 Gluadin ® W 40 42 1.0 Derivative 1 1.0 Natrosol ® 250 HR 43 1.1 champagne extract 0.5 Gluadin® ® WQ 2.0 water ad 100
     
    • 39 quaternized cellulose derivative (95% active, CTFA name: Polyquaternium-4) (DELFT NATIONAL)
    • 40 polyvinylpyrrolidone (95% active substance, CTFA name: PVP) (BASF)
    • 41 Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Cetrimonium Chloride) (COGNIS)
    • 42 partial hydrolyzate from wheat approx. 40% active ingredient (INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (COGNIS)
    • 43 hydroxyethylcellulose (AQUALON)
      43rd coloring cream C 12-18 fatty alcohol 1.2 Lanette ® O 44 4.0 Eumulgin ® B 2 0.8 Cutina ® KD 16 45 2.0 Derivative 10 1.5 sodium 0.5 L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.5 ammonium sulfate 0.5 1,2-propylene glycol 1.2 Polymer JR® 400 0.3 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85 2-methyl 0.14 6-methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42 Cetiol OE ® 46 0.5 champagne extract 0.5 Honeuquat ® 50 1.0 Ajidew ® NL 50 1.2 Gluadin® ® WQ 1.0 ammonia 1.5 water ad 100
    • 44 Cetylstearyl alcohol (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)
    • 45 Self-emulsifying mixture of mono- / diglycerides of higher saturated fatty acids with potassium stearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate SE) (COGNIS)
    • 46 Di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) (COGNIS)
      44th Developer dispersion for coloring cream 12. Texapon.RTM ® NSO 2.1 Derivative 7 1.5 Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0 Turpinal SL ® 47 1.7 Latekoll ® D 48 12.0 champagne extract 0.5 Gluadin® ® WQ 0.3 Salcare ® SC 96 1.0 water ad 100
    • 47 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (60% active ingredient, INCI name: Etidronic Acid) (COGNIS)
    • 48 Acrylic ester-methacrylic acid copolymer (25% active substance) (BASF)
  • The staining cream had a pH of 10.0. It caused an intense red tint of the hair. 45. Tinting shampoo Texapon.RTM ® N 70 14.0 Dehyton ® K 10.0 Derivative 8 7.5 Akypo RLM 45 ® NV 49 14.7 Plantacare ® 1200 UP 4.0 Polymer P1, according to DE 39 29 973 0.3 Cremophor ® RH 40 50 0.8 Dye CI 12 719 0.02 Dye CI 12 251 0.02 Dye CI 12 250 0.04 champagne extract 0.5 Dye CI 56 059 0.03 preservation 0.25 perfume oil qs Eutanol ® G 51 0.3 Gluadin® ® WQ 1.0 Hydrolyzate 2 0.5 Honeuquat ® 50 1.0 Salcare ® SC 96 0.5 water ad 100
    • 49 lauryl alcohol + 4.5 ethylene oxide-acetic acid sodium salt (20.4% active substance) (CHEM-Y)
    • 50 castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF)
    • 51 2-Octyldodecanol (guerbet alcohol) (INCI name: Octyldodecanol) (COGNIS)
  • When washing the hair with this tinting shampoo they get a shiny, light blonde color. 46. Cream time wave Well cream Plantacare ® 810 UP 52 5.0 thioglycolic 8.0 Turpinal® ® SL 0.5 Ammonia (25%) 7.3 ammonium carbonate 3.0 Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0 Guerbet alcohol 4.0 Hydrolyzate 1 2.0 champagne extract 0.5 Salcare ® SC 96 3.0 Gluadin® ® WQ 2.0 perfume oil qs water ad 100
    • 52 C 8 -C 10 -alkyl glucoside with degree of oligomerization 1.6 (about 60% active substance) (COGNIS)
    fixing Plantacare® ® 810 UP 5.0 hardened castor oil 2.0 potassium bromate 3.5 nitrilotriacetic 0.3 citric acid 0.2 Hydrolyzate 1 0.5 Derivative 1 1.5 champagne extract 0.5 Merquat ® 550 53 0.5 Hydagen® ® HCMF 54 0.5 Gluadin® ® WQ 0.5 perfume oil qs water ad 100
    • 53 Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (8% active ingredient, INCI name: Polyquarternium 7) (MOBIL OIL)
    • 54 chitosan powder (INCI name: chitosan) (COGNIS)
    47. Face Waters 47.1 47.2 47.3 Pluronic ® L 64 55 3.0 4.0 5.0 Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - 0.25 0.25 0.25 furanone Hydrolyzate 2 0.5 0.3 0.8 champagne extract 0.5 0.25 1.0 caffeine 0.3 0.3 0.75 taurine 0.25 0.25 0.5 carnitintartrat 0.5 0.5 0.5 Vitamin E 0.5 0.5 1.0 dipropylene 10.0 10.0 10.0 Emulsifier TD9 / PEG40HCO 56 0.5 0.5 0.5 perfume 0.2 0.2 0.2 ZnGluconate 0.05 0.07 0.10 Hydagen CMF ® 57 3.5 6.0 9.5 Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
    • 55 EO-PO-EO block polymer (EO = 40% by weight), OH = 39.1
    • 56 Trideceth 9 and PEG40-hydrogenated castor oil
    • 57 solution of chitosan (about 1 wt .-%) in a 0.4% aqueous glycolic acid solution
    48. Skin Emulsions (O / W) 48.1 48.2 Emulgade® ® SE 59 8.0 8.0 Cutina ® MD-60 A 1.5 1.5 Cetyl / stearyl 1.5 1.5 Myritol ® 318 61 10.0 10.0 Derivative 7 2.5 1.0 2-ethylhexyl stearate 5.0 5.0 Dimethylpolysiloxane (350 at) 1.0 1.0 Controx ® KS 62 0.05 0.05 PHB propyl 0.2 0.2 PHB Methylester 0.2 0.2 champagne extract 0.5 0.25 1,2-propylene glycol 3.0 3.0 Hydagen® ® CMF 3.0 8.0 ZnGluconate 0.04 0.10 Water (NaOH to pH = 5) ad 100 ad 100
    • 59 Mixture of: glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate (COGNIS)
    • 60 glyceryl stearates (COGNIS)
    • 61 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides (COGNIS)
    • 62 Tocopherol and Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides Citrate (COGNIS)
  • QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION
  • This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.
  • Cited patent literature
    • - DE 19738866 [0084]
    • - DE 4413686 [0150, 0153]
    • - GB 2104091 [0191]
    • EP 47714 [0191]
    • - EP 217274 [0191]
    • - EP 283817 [0191]
    • - DE 2817369 A [0191]
    • DE 19756454 [0225]
    • - WO 02/10257 [0280, 0323, 0337, 0359, 0370, 0388, 0406]
    • DE 3139438 A1 [0437, 0438]
    • WO 92/13829 [0454]
    • EP 0730830 B1 [0486]
    • - DE 29908573 U1 [0674]
    • - EP 998908 A2 [0685]
    • - DE 3929173 [0764]
    • - DE 3929973 [0764, 0764, 0765]
  • Cited non-patent literature
    • "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0154]
    • - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989 [0255]
    • - "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. [0263]
    • - "Medizinische Kosmetologie 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. [0438]
    • - Page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the declaration of ingredients of cosmetic products, published by the German Association of Personal Care and Detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt [0466]
    • - Römpp's Lexicon Chemistry CD-ROM Version 2.0, Stuttgart / New York, Georg Thieme Verlag 1999 [0524]
    • - HR Christen, Fundamentals of General and Inorganic Chemistry, Sauerländer und Sale, 5th Edition, 1977, on page 245 [0526]
    • - Hollemann-Wiberg, Lehrbuch der anorganischen Chemie, Walter de Gruyter, 81.-90. Edition 1976, Chapter VII, The chemical bond under cc) The formation of mixed crystals on page 114 [0526]
    • - S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, self-published [0545]
    • K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3rd. Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997 [0545]
    • - Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section III, pages 393 and following referenced [0593]
    • - Kh. Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd Edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989 [0692]

Claims (7)

  1. Protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, characterized in that they are obtained from the wool of Vikunja.
  2. Cosmetic agent, characterized in that they contain at least one substance according to claim 1.
  3. Laundry softener, thereby in that it comprises at least one substance according to claim 1 included.
  4. Wool detergents, characterized in that they contain at least one substance according to claim 1.
  5. Manual dishwashing detergent, characterized that they contain at least one substance according to claim 1 included.
  6. Process for the treatment of skin and hair, thereby in that an agent according to claim 2 is applied to the skin and / or The hair applied, distributed and after a contact time of a few Seconds rinsed with water for up to 45 minutes becomes.
  7. Use of an agent according to claim 2 for reducing the re-soiling of the skin and / or hair.
DE200710031202 2007-07-04 2007-07-04 New protein hydrolysate obtained from wool of Vicugna useful as laundry detergent, wool detergent, manual dishwashing agent and cosmetic agent, which is useful for treating skin and hair Withdrawn DE102007031202A1 (en)

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DE200710031202 DE102007031202A1 (en) 2007-07-04 2007-07-04 New protein hydrolysate obtained from wool of Vicugna useful as laundry detergent, wool detergent, manual dishwashing agent and cosmetic agent, which is useful for treating skin and hair

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102009027984A1 (en) 2009-07-24 2011-01-27 Zf Friedrichshafen Ag Stabilizer for motor vehicle, has control unit whose transistors are closed during occurrence of safety-relevant event until relays attached to actuator are closed, where relays are closed in unpowered condition
WO2012076284A1 (en) * 2010-12-08 2012-06-14 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Hydrophobized protein hydrolysate
WO2018050483A1 (en) * 2016-09-13 2018-03-22 Basf Se Low molecular weight keratin hydrolysates

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Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102009027984A1 (en) 2009-07-24 2011-01-27 Zf Friedrichshafen Ag Stabilizer for motor vehicle, has control unit whose transistors are closed during occurrence of safety-relevant event until relays attached to actuator are closed, where relays are closed in unpowered condition
DE102009027984B4 (en) * 2009-07-24 2019-06-13 Zf Friedrichshafen Ag Stabilizer of a motor vehicle
WO2012076284A1 (en) * 2010-12-08 2012-06-14 Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh Hydrophobized protein hydrolysate
CN103249313A (en) * 2010-12-08 2013-08-14 赢创高施米特有限公司 Hydrophobized protein hydrolysate
JP2014506239A (en) * 2010-12-08 2014-03-13 エヴォニク ゴールドシュミット ゲーエムベーハー Hydrophobized protein hydrolyzate
WO2018050483A1 (en) * 2016-09-13 2018-03-22 Basf Se Low molecular weight keratin hydrolysates

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