WO2009045556A1 - Procédé de traitement pour revitaliser les cheveux et procédé de production d'une solution de traitement à base de protéine (kératine) - Google Patents

Procédé de traitement pour revitaliser les cheveux et procédé de production d'une solution de traitement à base de protéine (kératine) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009045556A1
WO2009045556A1 PCT/US2008/013349 US2008013349W WO2009045556A1 WO 2009045556 A1 WO2009045556 A1 WO 2009045556A1 US 2008013349 W US2008013349 W US 2008013349W WO 2009045556 A1 WO2009045556 A1 WO 2009045556A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
keratin
treatment
water
keratin protein
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2008/013349
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Peter Coppola
Vito Biage Bucario
Original Assignee
Peter Coppola
Vito Biage Bucario
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Peter Coppola, Vito Biage Bucario filed Critical Peter Coppola
Priority to EP08835728.0A priority Critical patent/EP2205621A4/fr
Priority to AU2008307477A priority patent/AU2008307477A1/en
Publication of WO2009045556A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009045556A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07K—PEPTIDES
    • C07K1/00—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length
    • C07K1/107—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides
    • C07K1/1072—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides by covalent attachment of residues or functional groups
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08H—DERIVATIVES OF NATURAL MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08H1/00—Macromolecular products derived from proteins
    • C08H1/06—Macromolecular products derived from proteins derived from horn, hoofs, hair, skin or leather
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/94—Involves covalent bonding to the substrate

Definitions

  • the Japanese treatment relies on Lye and other harsh chemicals, while another system known as the Brazilian hair treatment use other forms of Brazilian marine algae with photo-keratin protein, formaldehyde, and other harsh chemicals to infuse the hair with treatment.
  • Photo-keratin is plant based and does not produce the long lasting restoration of the hair shaft that this new invention imparts.
  • This invention provides a systematic platform to enable the formulation of thermal straightening and revitalizing hair care products.
  • this invention provides a technology for developing hair-revitalizing products that do not require excessive oxidizing or bleaching chemicals.
  • the formulations are based on an entirely different premise for entrapping required chemicals that will revitalize hair and bring it back to a full bodied condition.
  • the animal keratin protein complex is carried as a payload in an emulsion of water, Cyclo-dimethicone, Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone and a small fraction of aldehydes which also act as fragrances and stabilizers.
  • the payload of keratin complex is first treated and bonded with p-benzoquinone to prepare it for intense polymerization with aldehyde structures, p- benzoquinone is an oxidizing agent and has very much the same effect on the hair sulphur groups as does formaldehyde.
  • Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone and the Cyclo-Dimethicone-water emulsion acts as a barrier film on the hair shaft during application, holding the oxidants and the keratin protein complex in place. Hair is physically stable due to the presence of protein structure, in particular the amino acids in the endo-cuticle regions.
  • the emulsion of the ingredients is evenly coated on all the hair shafts. Then, the emulsion is allowed to saturate the hair shaft for about 10 to 20 minutes. During this process, the film reactions of the aldehydes R-CHO groups with sulphur groups on the proteins of the hair shaft occur.
  • cyclic aldehydes such as C6, (Citrus smell), C8 (Cinnamon smell) aldehydes can be used which can also act as fragrances for the product.
  • the silicone fluids such as Cylco-Dimethicone, and Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone form a sealing layer around the polymerization reactions of the keratin sulphur groups, the p-benzoquinone and the aldehydes. These reactions are assisted by the large oxidization capability of the /7-benzoquinone.
  • the complex reagents do not need to be exposed to the atmosphere for their reactions to occur.
  • the heat is first adsorbed by the silicone fluids and thus allows them to evaporate leaving the reactants sealed in an even and uniform film of keratinous compounds.
  • the operator performing the treatment of the hair will not be affected by the evaporation of aldehydes or sulphurous fumes, leaving the hair well protected from the environment.
  • Excess silicone fluids remain on the hair as conditioning fluids that impart shine and uniformity to the hair shaft.
  • the base reactions are mostly of the form:
  • R-CHO representing an aldehyde group which may also perform fragrance functions for the complex.
  • a formulation for a hair product that has a polymeric- capable structure having reactive functional quinone and aldehyde groups and other characteristics that allow it to be covalently bounded to the hair.
  • Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone is specially formulated Dow-Corning for this type of hair reconditioning and straightening process. It consists of a unique blend of silicone copolymers with both amino and phenyl functionality. The amino functionality enhances deposition on the hair particularly damaged hair, while the phenyl group provided superior shine to the hair.
  • P-benzoquinone is a very good oxidizing agent and also regulates the aldehyde polymerization processes so that they occur at a controlled rate and under suitable conditions of ironing the hair shafts, no harmful effluents are created. This also allows the effluents to be well controlled for slow release, thus preventing any harmful side effects to a hair stylist, patients, or formulation operators.
  • p-benzoquinone also known as hydroquinone, will act on polyamide groups of the Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone fluids to form strong cross links, so that strong bonding of keratin product is also assisted. This also makes the silicone fluid very stable on the hair shaft and remains effective for several months of shine.
  • p-benzoquinone is a very good stainer for proteins, and as such it will stabilize the died hair fiber for the treatment.
  • the color of the formulation is dominated by the combined effective colors of the keratin compounds and the p-benzoquinone. This means that various shades of brown from very dark hair up to creamy pink blond hair can be treated without affecting or staining the hair externally, since the staining agent will only penetrate and load the hair shaft while the silicone fluids remain as a coating on the outside cuticles.
  • a rich variety of true hair colors emerges that enhance shine and strength to the hair.
  • the rapid formation of keratinous seals around the hair shafts prevents p-benzoquinone from changing the hair shaft externally.
  • the present invention is further directed to methods of treating hair which comprise applying a hair treatment preparation to the hair, the hair treatment preparation comprising a payload in an intimate relationship to a polymeric structure, the polymeric structure being reactive to hair or capable of being retained onto or in the hair by advocating heat means using a hot iron.
  • the present invention allows an operator or hair stylist to use the formulation on treated hair without being subjected to adverse fumigants that could cause harm.
  • the fume generating components of the keratin protein complex sulphide chains and aldehyde links are encapsulated by a non-polymeric silicone sealant fluid forming a thermal barrier on the hair shaft so that the hair does not easily damage from excessive heat application.
  • Figure 1 shows a typical applicator bottle for the present invention with a comb dispenser .
  • Figure 2 shows the method of producing hydrolized keratin protein of the finest quality.
  • Figure 3 shows the general Hair cuticle penetration procedure for Coppola hair treatment.
  • Figure 4 shows a typical formulation of the Corolla keratin treatment.
  • Figure 5 shows how damaged areas of the cuticle open up to accept treatment when the hair is straightened.
  • Figure 6 shows how the treatment makes keratin sulphur bonds with the damaged areas of the hair.
  • Figure 7 shows the effect of each component of the treatment on hair properties.
  • Figure 8 shows the preparation flow chart of the formulation.
  • Figure 9 shows the application of the formulation to hair by a stylist in a salon.
  • Figure 10 shows yet another formulation of the treatment.
  • Figure 11 shows yet again another formulation of the treatment.
  • Figure 12 shows an applicator bottle with a small sampler bottle and a professional use bottle.
  • Figure 13 shows the method of manufacture and distribution of the Coppola Keratin Treatment system.
  • Figure 14 shows an electric hot iron for performing the treatment.
  • Figure 15 shows how sulphur bonds are reorganized from curly hair to straight ironed hair after treatment.
  • a production method is disclosed of formulating a keratin protein hair revitalizing and treatment solution, and a treatment method is further disclosed for repairing damaged hair using the treatment solution causing keratin bonding at damaged sites on hair strands.
  • the method of producing the treatment solution involves the use of hydrolized ⁇ - keratin proteins which are prepared according to the following steps: synthesizing Alpian-wool ⁇ -keratin protein is extracted from sheep wool by patented processes subsequent to processes disclosed in US patent number, US 7,148327; heating and vaporizing said keratin to a fine mist; hydrolyzing the vaporized ⁇ - keratin protein with high electric current in water in the order of 200 amps per cubic meter ; adding a trace quantity of iron-oxide and a trace quantity of methanol for iron aldehyde chain formation; feeding 6% to 7% of keratinized water through a filter to sift very fine ionized ⁇ - keratin proteins in the high molecular ranges of 12000-19000 Daltons.
  • the following examples are intended to illustrate some, but not all, of the concepts described in this disclosure, and are in no way intended to limit it.
  • One skilled in the art would also see that different ideas from different examples or from
  • the method of producing the treatment solution involves the use of hydrolized ⁇ - keratin proteins which are prepared according to the following steps: synthesizing Alpian- wool ⁇ - keratin protein; heating and vaporizing to a fine mist the ⁇ - keratin protein; hydrolyzing the vaporized ⁇ - keratin protein with high electric current in water in the order of 200 amps; adding a trace quantity of iron-oxide and a trace quantity of methanol for iron aldehyde chain formation; feeding 6% to 7% of keratinized water through a filter to sift very fine proteins in the high molecular ranges of 12000-19000 Daltons.
  • the method of producing treatment solution more specifically includes the steps of: boiling a 10 % of the water needed water to creates bacteria free water ; adding tri-ionic ⁇ - keratin protein in a sealed chamber without exposing the solvents to air; adding cat-ionic guar gum for thickening to the required viscosity of about 2000 centipoise; slowly adding p- benzoquinone and other reagents with the exception of Cyclo-dimethicone and Dimethicone blends; stirring well until all components are blended to form phase A.
  • phase B preparation of phase B by boiling 90% percent of the distilled water in a separate reactor vessel; then, warming the remaining Cyclodimethicone; adding Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone Fluid to the mixture of phase B; adding Poly-glyceryl-laurate 10, Jojoba oil extract, and Vitamin E oil; stirring well until fully blended to form phase B; adding phase A to phase B; slowly blending to a uniform mixture; slowly stirring until fully blended with phase A to form phase B cooling to room temperature to form formula A; then, packaging formula A in high density polyethylene bottles for consumer use. All these ingredients are proportioned according to formulas, A, B and C in figures 4, 10 and 11 , respectively.
  • the hair treatment method involves a general hair strand penetration procedure, including the steps of: washing the hair thoroughly once or twice with a shampoo product, preferably a sodium free shampoo; towel drying the hair, then blow-drying hair completely dry; applying one of the said formulations identified in figures 4,10 and 11, according to the embodiments evenly to the hair strands using a fine toothed comb or an application brush for easy spreading; permitting ionized ⁇ - keratin protein sulphides and aldehydes to react on sulfide bonds of the keratin structure of hair according to the general reaction sequence RSSR + HSO3 ⁇ RSH + RSSO3; and permitting the keratin protein from solution and aldehydes to penetrate and bond to hair strands to increase hair- strain and yield-strength; leaving the solution on the hair for 10 to 20 minutes or as desired by an operator's experience; then hot-ironing the hair using an electric heating iron to raise the hair temperature of the reactants and the hair strands greater than 300 degrees F but less than
  • the hair treatment method more specifically includes the steps of: shampooing hair with a non-sodium shampoo to an oil-free and clean condition; completely or partially drying the hair with a blow-dryer, and preferably with an ionic type hair dryer; gradually applying one of the said formulations identified in figures 4,10 and 11 , to hair strands using one of a special applicator and a soft horse hair brush, and while applying the solution, making sure the time sequence for each segment of hair treated corresponds to the same time sequence for applying the hot iron; waiting at least 15 minutes for the formulation to penetrate the hair strands and form bonds with damaged exposed areas; heat hair strands to a temperature of at least 375 degrees F and at most 470 degrees F, the upper limit being necessary because a greater temperature would destroy the Cyclodimethicone by evaporating it completely and also cause the breakdown of the formula into formic acid; and applying a hot iron 5 to 7 times to the hair while simultaneously combing with fine toothed comb until all moisture has been eliminated from hair strand
  • FIGURE 5 shows a segment of damaged hair strands that has been straightened to open up the cuticle for product.
  • FIGURES 6 show the progressive treatment method results on a damaged hair strand having recessed or notched damage areas, similar to those shown in FIGURE 5 is being cured with quantities of keratin proteins bonding unto the recesses or notched damage areas.
  • FIGURE 7 tabulates the components constituting the treatment solution with corresponding component actions and the results produced by the components.
  • the color of the solution can be varied from a creamy yellow color to a dark brown color depending on the amount of p-benzoquinone present.
  • the treatment solution if left as a film on a surface will after some time form a strong fine film layer of ⁇ - keratin that has a very high tensile strength.
  • This film is what forms around the damaged cuticle as a protective and restoring medium for damaged hair strands. Cuticle damage can penetrate all the way into the sublayer of the ortho- cortical cells and expose the endo-cuticle layers to the environment. This leads to split hair strands and damaged ends.
  • the components of ⁇ -keratin of wool, quills and hair in particular the micro-fibril composite matrix, consists of low-sulphur proteins with high glycerine tyrosine proteins. Keratin matrices absorb water, and thus, it is critical that the hair strands be completely dried during application of the treatment.
  • a multi-phase protein structure is present wherein keratin protein, water, p-benzoquinone, glycerine tyrosine, amino-acids and aldehydes form a protein complex in multi-phase.
  • Water molecules trapped by keratin proteins behave as polymers because of the electrostatic properties imparted to the ionized keratin protein.
  • the combination of microfibril- matrix proteins and the water present in the cortex act to modify the stress and strain capabilities of the hair.
  • the electrical conductivity of the keratin protein in the hair and in the treatment solution depend on the water content and the ionic character of the Keratin molecules.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
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  • Genetics & Genomics (AREA)
  • Analytical Chemistry (AREA)
  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
  • Proteomics, Peptides & Aminoacids (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une solution de traitement pour revitaliser les cheveux, contenant la protéine alpha-kératine, qui permet de réorganiser les molécules soufrées de kératine créant des courbes dans les mèches de cheveux, puis de détendre les mèches de cheveux de façon à les raidir. Ladite solution contient en outre des aldéhydes linéaires et cycliques, de l'eau, de la cyclodiméthicone, de la diméthicone et de la gomme de guar cationique.
PCT/US2008/013349 2007-10-05 2008-12-04 Procédé de traitement pour revitaliser les cheveux et procédé de production d'une solution de traitement à base de protéine (kératine) WO2009045556A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP08835728.0A EP2205621A4 (fr) 2007-10-05 2008-12-04 Procédé de traitement pour revitaliser les cheveux et procédé de production d'une solution de traitement à base de protéine (kératine)
AU2008307477A AU2008307477A1 (en) 2007-10-05 2008-12-04 Treatment method for revitalizing hair and method of producing keratin protein treatment solution

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US97305907A 2007-10-05 2007-10-05
US11/973,059 2007-10-05

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WO2009045556A1 true WO2009045556A1 (fr) 2009-04-09

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EP (1) EP2205621A4 (fr)
AU (1) AU2008307477A1 (fr)
RU (1) RU2010116344A (fr)
WO (1) WO2009045556A1 (fr)

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150096584A1 (en) * 2013-10-07 2015-04-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair Straightening Method Involving Reducing Sugars
WO2016141498A1 (fr) * 2015-03-11 2016-09-15 Rodriguez Cerda Patricio Alfredo Composition cosmétique réductrice d'application topique qui contient de la kératine et du soufre
US10434051B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2019-10-08 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibers using arabinose and ethylene carbonate
US10568826B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2020-02-25 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a pretreatment and a protein crosslinking composition
US10729630B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2020-08-04 The Procter & Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising at least two functional groups selected from: —C(OH)- and —C(=O)OH
US10912726B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-02-09 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a reducing composition and a fixing composition
US10945931B2 (en) 2015-06-18 2021-03-16 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using dialdehyde compounds
US11096879B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-24 The Procter And Gamble Plaza Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising a functional group selected from the group consisting of: -C(=O)-, -C(=O)-H, and -C(=O)-O-
US11103434B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-31 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using carbonate ester
US11110046B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-07 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid and/or 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
US11129784B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-28 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using oxoethanoic acid and/or derivatives thereof
US11154480B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-10-26 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a sugar

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
BR112019023113A2 (pt) * 2017-05-10 2020-05-26 Rhodia Operations Composição de reparo de cabelo

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US20030012758A1 (en) * 2000-03-14 2003-01-16 Herve Jourdan Roll-on applicator comprising a hair composition
US20030236253A1 (en) * 2000-09-14 2003-12-25 Gruenenthal Gmbh Beta-thioamino acids
US20050226839A1 (en) * 2003-09-08 2005-10-13 Xueying Huang Pepetide-based body surface reagents for personal care
US20050226838A1 (en) * 2004-04-08 2005-10-13 Thomas Krause Hair treatment compositions containing N-hydroxy-alkyl-O-benzyl chitosans and methods of using same

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US6316598B1 (en) * 1999-09-13 2001-11-13 Keraplast Technologies, Ltd. Water absorbent keratin and gel formed therefrom
US20030012758A1 (en) * 2000-03-14 2003-01-16 Herve Jourdan Roll-on applicator comprising a hair composition
US20030236253A1 (en) * 2000-09-14 2003-12-25 Gruenenthal Gmbh Beta-thioamino acids
US20050226839A1 (en) * 2003-09-08 2005-10-13 Xueying Huang Pepetide-based body surface reagents for personal care
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Cited By (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150096584A1 (en) * 2013-10-07 2015-04-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair Straightening Method Involving Reducing Sugars
US9415000B2 (en) * 2013-10-07 2016-08-16 The Procter & Gamble Company Hair straightening method involving reducing sugars
US11096879B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-24 The Procter And Gamble Plaza Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising a functional group selected from the group consisting of: -C(=O)-, -C(=O)-H, and -C(=O)-O-
US10729630B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2020-08-04 The Procter & Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using an active agent comprising at least two functional groups selected from: —C(OH)- and —C(=O)OH
US10912726B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-02-09 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a reducing composition and a fixing composition
US11103434B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-08-31 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using carbonate ester
US11110046B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-07 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid and/or 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid
US11129784B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-09-28 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using oxoethanoic acid and/or derivatives thereof
US11154480B2 (en) 2013-12-19 2021-10-26 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a sugar
US10434051B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2019-10-08 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibers using arabinose and ethylene carbonate
US10568826B2 (en) 2014-12-19 2020-02-25 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using a pretreatment and a protein crosslinking composition
US10245224B2 (en) 2015-03-11 2019-04-02 Patricio Alfredo Rodriguez Cerda Topically applied cosmetic reductive composition containing keratin and sulphur
WO2016141498A1 (fr) * 2015-03-11 2016-09-15 Rodriguez Cerda Patricio Alfredo Composition cosmétique réductrice d'application topique qui contient de la kératine et du soufre
US10945931B2 (en) 2015-06-18 2021-03-16 The Procter And Gamble Company Shaping keratin fibres using dialdehyde compounds

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
RU2010116344A (ru) 2011-11-10
EP2205621A1 (fr) 2010-07-14
EP2205621A4 (fr) 2014-03-12
AU2008307477A1 (en) 2009-04-09

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