WO2009006525A1 - Chemise à plis tissés - Google Patents

Chemise à plis tissés Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009006525A1
WO2009006525A1 PCT/US2008/069027 US2008069027W WO2009006525A1 WO 2009006525 A1 WO2009006525 A1 WO 2009006525A1 US 2008069027 W US2008069027 W US 2008069027W WO 2009006525 A1 WO2009006525 A1 WO 2009006525A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
warp yarns
garment
warp
yarns
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2008/069027
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Jay R. Kapadia
Original Assignee
Oxford Industries, Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Oxford Industries, Inc. filed Critical Oxford Industries, Inc.
Publication of WO2009006525A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009006525A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D51/00—Driving, starting, or stopping arrangements; Automatic stop motions
    • D03D51/14—Driving, starting, or stopping arrangements; Automatic stop motions for reducing speed temporarily
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/08—Arched, corrugated, or like fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk

Definitions

  • This invention relates to pleated fabrics, and in particular to pleated fabrics in which the pleats are integrally woven into the fabric.
  • Conventional shirts having pleats are typically formed by taking a fabric to be used as the front panel of the shirt, folding and creasing the fabric to form adjacent pleats, and then sewing the folded and creased portion of the pleat to hold each in its desired location on the front panel of the shirt.
  • these sewn pleats suffer from several deficiencies. They have a tendency to fold over during use and after being washed. Repeated and tedious ironing is required in order to get the pleats to lay flat on the shirt.
  • the process of sewing the pleats to maintain the folds can cause the fabric to pucker adjacent the seam.
  • pleats have traditionally been formed by an operator using a sewing machine. This process is time consuming and thus expensive and subject to human error.
  • the present invention relates to methods for forming pleated fabrics in which the pleats are integrally woven into the fabric.
  • warp yarns are advanced in a first direction and weft yarns are interweaved with the warp yarns.
  • the advancement of the warp yarns is halted while the weft yarn continues interweaving with the warp yarns to form a pleat.
  • advancement of the warp yarns is restarted and then stopped again at the next desired pleat location.
  • the pleated fabrics can be incorporated into a garment, e.g., in a man's tuxedo shirt or pleated woman's blouse.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of an apparatus for forming a fabric according to the present application.
  • Figure 2 illustrates a garment having pleats formed according to a method of the present application.
  • An embodiment of the present invention provides for woven pleats that are not folded, creased and sewn according to previously known methods. Rather, the pleats are integrally-woven into a fabric, which can then be incorporated into a garment.
  • the woven pleats in this embodiment can be formed using a double beam and air jet loom, an example of which is illustrated in Fig. 1.
  • the apparatus 100 includes a warp beam 110 and a fabric beam 120.
  • the warp beam 110 feeds the warp yarn 115 into the loom.
  • the fabric beam 120 takes up the finished woven fabric.
  • An air jet 125 propels the weft yarn (also known as fill yarn)
  • weft yarns 130 in the cross-machine direction, i.e., in a direction that is generally perpendicular to the direction of movement of the warp yarn.
  • the weft yarns 130 are interwoven with the warp yarns 115 to form a woven fabric.
  • both the warp beam and fabric beam as well as the weft yarn are in constant motion. The warp and weft yarns are thus woven together to form a uniform fabric.
  • the warp beam 110 and fabric beam 120 are intermittently stopped while the weft yarn 130 continues in motion. Because the warp yarn is not moving, the continual feed of the weft yarn 130 across the same location on the warp yarn creates a thickened portion at that location to thereby form a pleat 140 (depicted in Fig. 1 as the darker/thicker lines in the fabric). In addition, the weft yarn position can be moved laterally to provide additional width to the pleat. When the desired pleat thickness and width is obtained, the warp beam 110 and fabric beam 120 are re-activated and then halted again at the next desired location for a pleat. A woven pleated fabric is thus formed according to this method.
  • the width of the pleats as well as the separation between adjacent pleats on the resulting fabric can be varied by controlling various factors including, e.g., the time that the warp beam 110 and fabric beam 120 are stopped and the interval between stoppages.
  • the weft yarn position can be moved laterally to provide additional width to the pleat.
  • pleat widths can range from about 1/8 inch to about 3/4 inch.
  • narrower pleats will generally be less likely to fold or bend and will generally look smoother and more presentable and are therefore preferred. A skilled artisan could adjust these factors to achieve a desired pleat width.
  • Pleat thickness depends on the gauge of the thread, the density of the pleat, and the amount of time that the warp beam is stopped.
  • Typical pleat thicknesses can be from about 1/16 inch up to about 1/8 inch, but can be thicker or thinner depending on the desired fabric properties.
  • the pleated fabric typically varies from about 3.5 oz/yd to 4.25 oz/yd as these are generally the desired weights for top weight shirtings. It will be understood, however, that any fabric weight can be achieved by varying, e.g., the warp beam stoppage time and interval between stoppages.
  • Pleat uniformity can be achieved by adjusting the tensions on the warp beam 110 and fabric beam 120. Such adjustments can be made by a skilled artisan.
  • the yarns of an embodiment of this invention may be made for any type of fiber or blends thereof, including but not limited to cotton, polyester, rayon, silk, lastol and combinations thereof.
  • the resulting pleated fabric may have any thread count.
  • the thread count will vary based on the yarn gauge, which could be, but is not limited to single-ply and double-ply gauged yarns between about 40 to 100 English cotton count.
  • a thread count between about 120 to 290 threads per inch in the warp direction and about 90 to 160 threads per inch in the weft direction is preferable but not required.
  • a thread count of about 190 threads per inch in the warp and about 120 threads per inch in the weft has proven particularly suitable.
  • Suitable yarn gauges can be selected by a skilled artisan to provide desirable luster, weight, and cost per yard.
  • the woven pleated fabric can be incorporated into a shirt or any other type of garment, such as a tuxedo shirt or pleated woven woman's blouse.
  • Figure 2 illustrates the pleated fabric 210 incorporated as a pleat bib into a tuxedo shirt 200.
  • the vertical pleats 210 in the shirt 200 are formed by taking the horizontally-pleated fabric off fabric beam 120 of Figure 1, cutting the fabric to a suitable size, and arranging the pleats vertically to incorporate them into the shirt.
  • the pleated fabric (as well as the other, non-pleated fabric in the garment) may be, but do not have to be, treated with certain chemicals to impart a wrinkle-free property to the fabric.
  • the pleated fabric may be padded with a cross-linking agent (including, but not limited to, dihydroxy dimethylol ethylene urea (DMDHEU)) to prevent subsequent fiber movement to thereby impart a permanent press appearance.
  • a catalyst for the cross-linking agent such as, but not limited, to a magnesium-based catalyst, may also be applied to the fabric.
  • the fabric can be cut and constructed into a garment.
  • An adhesive such as an adhesive tape, is preferably, but not necessarily, used in the garment seam construction to prevent puckering at the seams, as is disclosed in U.S. Patent Nos. 5,568,779; 5,590,615; 5,713,292; 5,775,394; 5,782,191 ; 5,950,554; 6,037,949; 6,070,542; and 6,079,343, the entirety of each of which are hereby incorporated by reference. Any creases in the garment are preferably pressed into the garment at this time.
  • the resulting garment is then introduced into an oven.
  • the cross-linking catalyst and heat activate the cross-linking resin, which cures the fibers and fixes in place the threads used to sew the garment components together.
  • a stain-resistant interlining can also be applied to the neck band, collar, placket, waist band, lining and/or cuffs of the garment. Such interlining is formed and applied to the shirt as described in U.S. Patent Application No. 11/590,690, filed October 31, 2006, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. It is apparent that the process for forming the woven pleats described above results in the pleats being integrated into the fabric itself. The pleats and fabric can thus be treated and finished together in the fabric and garment stage.
  • Processing of the pleated fabric and garment as described herein results in a garment having pleats that resist bending, folding and other deformation after laundering and thus do not require ironing. Moreover, the seams in the resulting garment preferably do not pucker and the finished garment is generally wrinkle-free and ring-free. The garment thus preferably does not require ironing after multiple wears and laundering.
  • a tuxedo shirt manufactured in accordance with this methods described above was tested pursuant to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) standard 143.
  • AATCC 143 is used to rate the after- wash appearance of a garment.
  • the test provides ratings for fabric smoothness and seams using replica cards which represent ratings on a scale of one (worst) to five (best).
  • the general industry standard for an iron-free garment is 3.5 or greater for a single component and/or 4.0 or greater for an average of all components.
  • Tables 1 and 2 below and illustrate that the body of the shirt (the portion having the woven pleats) maintained a rating of 3.5 for 20 washes:

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des procédés de formation de tissus plissés dans lesquels les plis sont tissés de manière intégrée au tissu. Selon un procédé, des fils de chaîne sont avancés dans une première direction et des fils de trame sont entrelacés avec les fils de chaîne. L'avancée des fils de chaîne est stoppée tandis que le fil de trame continue de s'entrelacer avec les fils de chaîne pour former un pli. Lorsque la largeur et l'épaisseur du pli souhaitées sont obtenues, l'avancée des fils de chaîne est reprise puis à nouveau arrêtée à l'emplacement du pli suivant souhaité. Le tissu plissé peut être incorporé à l'intérieur d'un vêtement, par exemple, dans la chemise d'un smoking ou le chemisier plissé d'une femme.
PCT/US2008/069027 2007-07-02 2008-07-02 Chemise à plis tissés WO2009006525A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US94750707P 2007-07-02 2007-07-02
US60/947,507 2007-07-02

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009006525A1 true WO2009006525A1 (fr) 2009-01-08

Family

ID=40226531

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/US2008/069027 WO2009006525A1 (fr) 2007-07-02 2008-07-02 Chemise à plis tissés

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2009006525A1 (fr)

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2488795A (en) * 1947-11-17 1949-11-22 Sidney A Avery Dress shirt
US3823452A (en) * 1972-12-13 1974-07-16 L Harrow Method of forming pleated fabric
US4300898A (en) * 1979-11-08 1981-11-17 Sun Chemical Corporation Compositions for treating textile fabrics
US4620570A (en) * 1982-05-11 1986-11-04 Kabushiki Kaisha Toyoda Jidoshokki Seisakusho Method and apparatus for disposal of weft yarn in a jet loom
US5041324A (en) * 1988-04-23 1991-08-20 Vorwerk & Co. Interholding Gmbh Woven fabric structure and process of manufacture
US20060090266A1 (en) * 2001-10-18 2006-05-04 Gardner Robb R Shrink resistant and wrinkle free textiles
US20070118955A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2007-05-31 Kapadia Jay R Stain resistant interlining for clothing

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2488795A (en) * 1947-11-17 1949-11-22 Sidney A Avery Dress shirt
US3823452A (en) * 1972-12-13 1974-07-16 L Harrow Method of forming pleated fabric
US4300898A (en) * 1979-11-08 1981-11-17 Sun Chemical Corporation Compositions for treating textile fabrics
US4620570A (en) * 1982-05-11 1986-11-04 Kabushiki Kaisha Toyoda Jidoshokki Seisakusho Method and apparatus for disposal of weft yarn in a jet loom
US5041324A (en) * 1988-04-23 1991-08-20 Vorwerk & Co. Interholding Gmbh Woven fabric structure and process of manufacture
US20060090266A1 (en) * 2001-10-18 2006-05-04 Gardner Robb R Shrink resistant and wrinkle free textiles
US20070118955A1 (en) * 2005-10-31 2007-05-31 Kapadia Jay R Stain resistant interlining for clothing

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