WO2008075431A1 - Polyester woven fabric - Google Patents

Polyester woven fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008075431A1
WO2008075431A1 PCT/JP2006/325493 JP2006325493W WO2008075431A1 WO 2008075431 A1 WO2008075431 A1 WO 2008075431A1 JP 2006325493 W JP2006325493 W JP 2006325493W WO 2008075431 A1 WO2008075431 A1 WO 2008075431A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
polyester
fabric
woven fabric
fiber
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2006/325493
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Kenji Ishimine
Sumio Hisinuma
Kazuyuki Adachi
Original Assignee
Toray Industries, Inc.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries, Inc. filed Critical Toray Industries, Inc.
Priority to PCT/JP2006/325493 priority Critical patent/WO2008075431A1/en
Publication of WO2008075431A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008075431A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/292Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/30Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
    • D03D15/33Ultrafine fibres, e.g. microfibres or nanofibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02Underwear
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/06Details of garments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a polyester water-repellent woven fabric having a stretch property that is comfortable to wear and having high density and excellent water repellency and waterproofness.
  • stretch fabrics so far have been mainly knitted fabrics and polyurethane elastic fibers, that is, fabrics using spandex covering yarns.
  • spandettas when span dettas were used, there was a problem of high costs of raw yarn and high-order processing costs.
  • Patent Document 1 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-20541
  • Patent Document 2 Japanese Patent Publication No. 44 2504
  • Patent Document 3 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-308271
  • Patent Document 4 JP-A-5-295634
  • the present invention is to provide a comfortable polyester woven fabric having a high stretch property that has never been obtained, and having a high density and a waterproof property.
  • the present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above problems.
  • the present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above problems.
  • polyester woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the polyester woven fabric is used for an application selected from sports clothing, outdoor clothing, women's outerwear, lining, and underwear. .
  • a waterproof polyester fabric excellent in stretchability can be provided, and it is widely used for applications selected from sports clothing in general, outdoor clothing in general, women's outerwear, general lining and underwear. .
  • the woven fabric of the present invention it is possible to realize the production of a garment 'fiber product having an unprecedented function.
  • the present invention uses an ultrafine fiber yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 decitex or more and 1.1 decitex or less for one of the warp and horizontal yarns, and at least one component for the other one of the yarns.
  • the polyester-based polymer mainly comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PTT) constituting at least one component of the side-by-side type composite fiber or the eccentric core-sheath type is a main acid component of terephthalic acid.
  • 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component.
  • 20 mol 0/0 or less it may also be one more preferred properly containing other ester bonds can form a copolymer component in a proportion of 10 mol% or less Re.
  • copolymerizable compound examples include isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5_sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and other dicarboxylic acids, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butane.
  • diols such as diol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.
  • titanium dioxide serving as a matting agent
  • silica or alumina fine particles serving as a lubricant
  • hindered phenol derivatives or coloring pigments serving as an antioxidant may be added.
  • the components of the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber include PTT 100% side-by-side type composite fiber or eccentric core-sheath type multifilament drawn yarn that are bonded together with different intrinsic viscosities. Is also preferable. More preferably, one is a polyester component mainly composed of soot (high shrinkage component), and the other is a polyester component mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PET). Multi-filament yarns of composite fibers that are spun into a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction or composite fibers that are spun into an eccentric core-sheath type have a stretch rate and elastic modulus after crimping.
  • the PET is preferably a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and ethylene glycol as the main glycol component.
  • a copolymer that can form other ester bonds in a proportion of 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less.
  • Examples of the copolymerizable compound include sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, sulfate ester, jetyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethanesulfonic acid, black benzene sulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, Dicarboxylic acids such as sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acids such as ⁇ -hydroxybenzoic acid, ⁇ -force prolataton, triethylene glycol, polyethylene Diols such as lenglycol, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hydrated quinone, and bisphenol ⁇ are preferably used.
  • titanium dioxide serving as a matting agent
  • silica or alumina serving as a lubricant
  • Fine particles may be added as antioxidants.
  • the PTT component is 30 to 70% by weight in the composite fiber in terms of yarn production and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. More preferably, it is preferably 45 to 65% by weight.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type or the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobe cross section, a flat cross section, a Dalma type cross section, an X type cross section, or other irregular cross sections. From the standpoint of expression and uniformity of crimp, a flat cross-section with a mushroom-type or dharma-type cross-section is particularly preferred. In addition, a semicircular side-by-side with a round cross-section, a hollow side-by-side aiming at light weight and heat retention, and a triangle-shaped side-by-side aiming at a dry texture are preferably used.
  • the mushroom-type flat cross section is, for example, a case where a high stretch polymer homo PTT and a low intrinsic viscosity homo PET are used as an example.
  • This is a side-by-side type composite fiber obtained by laminating composite spinning from the base.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the yarn is a low intrinsic viscosity homo-PET with a mushroom umbrella and a highly stretchable polymer homo PTT with a cross-section similar to a mushroom handle. Shape.
  • the total fineness of the side yarns of the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably 22 to 330 dtex. 40 to 165 dtex is more preferable. By setting it to 22 dtex or more, it is possible to obtain a sufficient stretch effect by crimping, and by setting it to 330 dtex or less, it is possible to suppress the wrinkle feeling. Furthermore, 56 ⁇ : 165 dtex is particularly preferred because of its delicate texture and stretch.
  • the single fiber fineness of the above-mentioned composite fiber multifilament yarn is preferably 1.1 to 10 decitex, more preferably 1 .:! To 6 decitex. A lance is better.
  • the polyester composite fiber multifilament yarn of the present invention is a force having a twist number of 0 or
  • Preferably it is twisted at 800tZm or less. Those that exceed 800t / m have a strong twist, and a hard texture cannot be obtained. There are problems such as reversal of twisting. By setting the number of twists to 800 tZm or less, there is no need for crimping, soft texture, rewinding caulking and twisting set, and both quality and processing passability are extremely favorable.
  • the composite fiber multifilament yarn comprising at least one polyester-based polymer mainly composed of PTT in the present invention is contained in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the fabric. It is preferable for obtaining stretchability. More preferably, it is 20 to 40% by weight.
  • the polyester composite fiber multifilament yarn of the present invention has a stretch elongation ratio of 10% or more after being crimped by heat treatment in order to give the fabric an appropriate stretch property as an object of the present invention. Is preferable. More preferably, it is 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more, and 30% or more, while it is preferably 100% or less.
  • the elastic modulus of elasticity is preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 90% or more.
  • the elastic modulus of elasticity is less than 70%, the fabric base fabric stretch recovery is insufficient, and when it is made into a sewn product, a phenomenon that it is difficult to recover when the fabric is stretched may occur.
  • it is preferably 100% or less.
  • a polyester polymer mainly composed of PTT is used as at least one component, and is melt melt spun into a side-by-side type and stretched.
  • the spinning temperature is 285 to 320 ° C
  • the spinning speed is 900 to 1600mZ to make a normal undrawn yarn, which is drawn at a draw ratio of 2.5 to 4.0 times. It is obtained by doing.
  • the polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of PTT is 0.5 to 1.
  • IV value Intrinsic viscosity (IV value) was measured at 25 ° C in orthochlorophonol by a conventional method.
  • PTT has a polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.50 to: 1.20 high IV
  • PET has a polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.
  • Extremely high stretch properties can be obtained with drawn yarns bonded to low IV of 5 to 0.7 So most preferred. In this case, the drawn yarn can be used as it is, and a high stretch property can be obtained.
  • a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath composite fiber multifilament yarn is used for one of the warp yarn and the horizontal yarn for either one of the warp yarn and the horizontal yarn. .01 dtex or more 1.
  • the ultrafine fiber yarn that is the other of the side-by-side type or the eccentric core-sheath type composite multifilament yarn is a surface feeling, texture, use such as a polyester multifilament yarn such as PET, PPT, and polybutylene terephthalate. It can be appropriately selected depending on the application.
  • a high-density woven fabric having a total cover factor of warp and horizontal yarns of 1500 to 2500 in the state of the finished product to provide a waterproof function is good.
  • a high density fabric of 1700 to 2300 is preferred.
  • a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber multifilament yarn is used in a direction in which it is desired to apply a stretch of either a warp yarn or a horizontal yarn, and either of them, or a woven fabric.
  • the woven structure is not limited to a plain weave, and a satin structure, a twill structure, and other various changed structures can be employed in a wide range. In particular, it is possible to give a softer texture and stretch by using a flat double woven fabric.
  • a fly shirttle In a loom for weaving, a fly shirttle, a water jet room, an air jet room, and a revere room are not limited.
  • Relaxing heat treatment after weaving, intermediate setting, alkali weight loss dyeing, water repellent treatment, finishing set, etc. can be carried out under normal conditions. However, in relaxing heat treatment, side-by-side type composite fibers are crimped to restrain the fabric. The temperature in the liquid should be 8
  • a water-repellent finish is applied to a woven fabric using side-by-side type composite fibers or eccentric core-sheath type multifilament yarns as either warp yarns or horizontal yarns.
  • fluorine-based, silicon-based, wax-based, and paraffin-based agents can be used as the water-repellent finishing agent. preferable.
  • a treatment liquid containing a fluorine-based water repellent, an amino blast resin, a polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin, and ethylene carbonate in one bath is prepared, and the woven fabric is treated with the treatment liquid. It is preferable to heat-treat after being immersed in the film.
  • the fluorine-based water repellent for example, a fluoralkyl group-containing acrylic copolymer is preferable.
  • the fluorine-based water repellent is preferably 0.01 to 10 parts by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric.
  • aminoblast resins examples include melamine resins such as trimethylol melamine and hexamethylol melamine, urea-based resins such as dimethylol propylene urea, dimethylol ethylene urea, and dimethylol hydroxylin urea, and dimethyloluron resin. Etc. can be used.
  • the amount of aminoblast resin used is preferably 0.01 to 10 parts by weight, more preferably 0.02 to: parts by weight in terms of solid content, based on 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric to be treated. Is good.
  • the polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin preferably contains two or more block isocyanate functional groups in the molecule.
  • the amount of the polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin is preferably from 0.0 :! to 4 parts by weight in terms of solid content with respect to 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric to be treated.
  • the blending of ethylene carbonate is preferable because it can provide abrasion resistance in a wet state of water-repellent processing.
  • the amount of ethylene carbonate used is preferably 0.01 to 30 parts by weight, more preferably 2 to 10 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric. If the amount of ethylene carbonate is too large, the texture of the fabric tends to become hard due to dissolution of the polyester fabric, and if it is too small, the wear resistance tends to decrease.
  • the water-repellent performance of the polyester-based water-repellent fabric of the present invention is preferably an initial water repellency of 4 or more and 3 or more after 20 washings.
  • the initial water repellency is the water repellency defined by “Measurement method” in the examples. If the water repellency is 3 or more, the rain will hardly penetrate into the fabric if it is worn for a short time in light rain.
  • it is important that the stretch rate of the fabric is 10% or more for at least one of the lengths.
  • the fabric elongation rate is a stretch property parameter defined in “Measurement method” in the examples.
  • the fabric elongation rate is less than 10%, it cannot follow the expansion and contraction of the skin during the movement of the human body, and a satisfactory comfort cannot be obtained, more preferably 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more. It is. Meanwhile, 30.
  • polyester water-repellent woven fabric of the present invention is 300 mm or more, candy hardly penetrates into the woven fabric for a short time when worn in light rain.
  • Measurement was performed in a nitrogen atmosphere using a Capillograph 1B manufactured by Toyo Seiki Co., Ltd.
  • the temperature shown in the examples (275 ° C in Example 1) was taken as the measurement temperature, the measurement was carried out three times at a strain rate of 6080 sec 1 and the average value was taken as the melt viscosity.
  • JIS L 1096 elongation rate Measured by A method (constant speed elongation method).
  • the initial water repellency is the water repellency in the unwashed state, and the water repellency after washing 20 times according to 103 of JIS L-0217 The water content was also evaluated.
  • the texture was stretched by 10 texture assessors to determine the softness and evaluated in the following four stages.
  • homo-PTT with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1 ⁇ 40, melt viscosity at 275 ° C of 750poise and homo-PET with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 and melt viscosity at 275 ° C of 650poise are used.
  • the hot roll temperature was 75 ° C
  • the hot plate temperature was 170 ° C
  • the draw ratio was 3.3 times. Without pulling once, it was continuously relaxed by 0.9 times and wound to obtain 55 dtex, 24 filament drawn yarn. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred.
  • the drawn yarn was a flat mushroom type cross-sectional yarn having a strength of 4.3 cN / dtex, a stretch elongation of 32%, and a stretch elastic modulus of 80%.
  • Polyester ultra-fine wooly yarn (Nanya Co., Ltd. Wool-processed yarn 56T-144-SP) made of 56 dtex 144 filament is used for the warp yarn without actual twisting.
  • the density of the finished fabric was 184 x 90 / 2.54 cm.
  • the surface of the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having a smooth, glossy and soft texture without wrinkles and having a horizontal stretch.
  • the warp direction was 3% and the horizontal direction was 20%.
  • the water pressure resistance was 40 Omm.
  • the sum of the cover factors of the warp and horizontal finishes was 2 200 / 2.54 cm.
  • Other details are listed in Table 1.
  • the pressure for calendering the raw machine obtained by water repellent processing is 10 to 20 tons.
  • the temperature of some metals is 170 ° C to 180 ° C, and the yarn speed is 1 OmZmin to 20mZmin.
  • the initial water repellency was 4, and the water repellency after 20 washings was 3, which was a fabric excellent in water repellency.
  • the resulting woven fabric was treated with 1.2 wt% NAOH, and the warp sea component was dissolved at a temperature of 90 degrees X 30 minutes.
  • the obtained raw machine was dyed and water repellent processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. At this time, the density of the finished fabric was 160 ⁇ 90 pieces Z2.5 4 cm in length and width. The total cover factor for warp and horizontal yarn finishes was 2 139 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
  • the surface of the obtained fabric was smooth, glossy and soft to the touch.
  • the warp direction was 5% and the horizontal direction was 21%.
  • the water pressure resistance was 300 mm.
  • the initial water repellency was 4, and the water repellency after 20 washings was 3, which was a fabric with excellent water repellency.
  • Example 1 Use the side-by-side type composite fiber 56 decitex obtained in Example 1 for the warp yarn of Example 1 for warp yarn without applying actual twist to the warp yarn, and the other side of the warp yarn 56
  • Polyester wool yarn composed of 48 filaments was woven with a plain weft double-tissue fabric using a water jet loom. At this time, the sum of the cover factors for the warp and horizontal finishes was 2200 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
  • the obtained raw machine was dyed and water-repellent processed under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • the density of the finished fabric was 200 X 120 pieces Z2. 54 cm.
  • the total cover factor for the warp and horizontal yarn finishes at this time was 2614 / 2.54 cm.
  • Other details are listed in Table 1.
  • the surface of the obtained woven fabric was smooth and glossy without wrinkles, and had a soft texture. Also, as a result of measuring the stretch rate of this fabric, the warp direction was 3%, Horizontal direction was 25%.
  • the water pressure resistance was 350 mm.
  • the initial water repellency was 4, and the water repellency after washing 20 times was 3, which was a fabric with excellent water repellency.
  • the obtained raw machine was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1.
  • the density of the finished fabric was 164 x 90 pieces / 2.54 cm.
  • the sum of the cover factors for the warp and weft finish was 2200 / 2.54 cm.
  • the vertical direction was 3% and the horizontal direction was 10%, which was not satisfactory.
  • the water pressure resistance was 200 mm, which was not satisfactory.
  • the fabric was excellent in water repellency and water repellency 3 after the initial water repellency 4 and after 20 washings.
  • the present invention has a stretch property of 20% or more.
  • a waterproof and high-density woven fabric of 300 mm or more was obtained. Other details are listed in Table 1.
  • polyester water-repellent woven fabric that has a stretch property that is comfortable to wear and that has high density and excellent waterproofness, and is generally used in sports clothing, general outdoor clothing, women's outerwear, lining. Can be used widely in general and clothing applications such as underwear.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Nanotechnology (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

[PROBLEMS] To provide a comfortable polyester woven fabric which has extraordinarily high water-proofing properties and has higher stretchability. [MEANS FOR SOLVING PROBLEMS] The polyester woven fabric is characterized in that either of the warps and wefts are microfiber yarns having a single-fiber fineness of 0.01-1.1 dtex, and that the other are multifilament yarns in which each filament is a composite fiber of the side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core type obtained by bonding ingredients along the fiber direction, at least one of the ingredients being a polyester polymer comprising a polyester comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate as the main component. It is further characterized in that the total finish cover factor of the warps and wefts is 1,500-2,500.

Description

明 細 書  Specification
ポリエステル織物  Polyester fabric
技術分野  Technical field
[0001] 本発明は、着用に快適なストレッチ性を有し、かつ高密度で撥水性と防水性に優れ たポリエステル撥水織物に関するものである。  [0001] The present invention relates to a polyester water-repellent woven fabric having a stretch property that is comfortable to wear and having high density and excellent water repellency and waterproofness.
背景技術  Background art
[0002] 近年、繊維製品では機能性、快適性の高度化が強く求められており、特にスポーツ およびアウトドアを中心とする用途では、機能面ではストレッチ性と防水性が強く求め られ、併せてソフトな風合いと張り腰感を兼ね備えた快適素材が求められている。  [0002] In recent years, there has been a strong demand for advanced functionality and comfort in textile products. Especially in sports and outdoor applications, there is a strong demand for stretch and water resistance in terms of functionality. There is a need for comfortable materials that combine a natural texture and tension.
[0003] 防水性においては、これまで織物組織を密にして得る方法と後加工での薬剤の付 与によりその特性を付与している力 伸縮性に乏しいので風合いが硬くなつており、 衣料にした場合はごわごわとしてドレープ性に欠ける、着心地が悪くなる、さらに仕立 て映えが悪くなるというような問題を有していた。  [0003] In terms of waterproofness, the method of obtaining a dense fabric structure and the power that has been imparted by applying chemicals in the post-processing so far The texture is stiff due to lack of elasticity, and In such a case, there were problems such as steep lack of drape, poor comfort, and poor tailoring.
[0004] また、これまでのストレッチ素材は、編物やポリウレタン弾性繊維、すなわちスパン デッタスのカバーリング糸使用の織物が主流であった。また、スパンデッタスを用いた 場合は、原糸、高次加工費のコスト高の問題があった。  [0004] In addition, stretch fabrics so far have been mainly knitted fabrics and polyurethane elastic fibers, that is, fabrics using spandex covering yarns. In addition, when span dettas were used, there was a problem of high costs of raw yarn and high-order processing costs.
[0005] また、原糸および高次カ卩工費の低コスト化を目的に仮撚加工糸を用いてストレッチ 素材を製造する手法においては、高クリンプ、高トルクを得るために、先撚 Z仮撚 Z 追撚等の工夫が行われている。  [0005] In addition, in the method of manufacturing a stretch material using false twisted yarn for the purpose of reducing the cost of raw yarn and high-order cutting work, in order to obtain high crimp and high torque, a pre-twisted Z temporary Twist Z Additional twisting has been made.
[0006] し力 ながら、生産工程において、先撚を施した後仮撚は、仮撚時に糸切れを発生 し、時として生産効率を落とすことになつている。さらに製織する上において、高トノレク の糸だけに取り扱いに高度の技術を要し、製織時の停台回数も多ぐピリの折り込み もあり、高品質の織物を安定して生産することに難がある。また、強撚を施しているに も関わらず、仮撚カ卩ェを行うが十分なストレッチが得られず、風合いもフカツキ、シボ が発生し、生地表面がプレーンでないとレ、う問題があった。  [0006] However, in the production process, false twisting after pre-twisting causes yarn breakage during false twisting, and sometimes reduces production efficiency. Furthermore, when weaving, only high-tonolec yarns require advanced techniques for handling, and there are many folds that occur during weaving, making it difficult to stably produce high-quality fabrics. is there. In spite of strong twisting, false twisting is performed but sufficient stretch is not obtained, the texture is fluffy and wrinkled, and the fabric surface is not plain. It was.
[0007] 例えば、タテ糸とョコ糸に高捲縮糸を用いた (例えば、特許文献 1参照)平織の 2重 織物を施せば、ある程度のストレッチ性のある糸を得ることができる力 組織を変え平 織の高密度織物にした際のストレッチ性が不十分となり、満足なストレッチ性織物が 得られにくいとレ、う問題があった。 [0007] For example, a force organization that can obtain a yarn having a certain degree of stretchability by applying a plain woven double woven fabric using high crimped yarn for warp and weft yarn (see, for example, Patent Document 1) Change There was a problem that the stretchability when it was made into a high density woven fabric was insufficient, and it was difficult to obtain a satisfactory stretch fabric.
[0008] また、一方、ポリエチレンテレフタレート成分同士のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維が 種々提案されてレ、る。例えば固有粘度差あるいは極限粘度差を有するサイドバイサ イド型複合糸が提案され (例えば、特許文献 2、 3参照)、さらに非共重合ポリエチレン テレフタレートとそれより高収縮性の共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートのサイドバイサ イド複合糸が提案されている (例えば、特許文献 4参照)。  On the other hand, various side-by-side type composite fibers of polyethylene terephthalate components have been proposed. For example, a side-by-side type composite yarn having an intrinsic viscosity difference or an intrinsic viscosity difference has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Documents 2 and 3), and a side-by-side composite of non-copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate and a highly shrinkable copolymer polyethylene terephthalate. Yarns have been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 4).
[0009] このようなサイドバイサイド型複合繊維を用いれば、ある程度のストレッチ性のある糸 を得ることができる力 S、織物にした際のストレッチ性が不十分となり、満足なストレッチ 性織物が得られにくいという問題があった。 [0009] If such a side-by-side type composite fiber is used, it is possible to obtain a yarn having a certain degree of stretchability S, the stretchability when made into a woven fabric becomes insufficient, and a satisfactory stretchable woven fabric is difficult to obtain. There was a problem.
特許文献 1:特開平 2003— 20541号公報  Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-20541
特許文献 2:特公昭 44 2504号公報  Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Publication No. 44 2504
特許文献 3:特開平 4— 308271号公報  Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-308271
特許文献 4 :特開平 5— 295634号公報  Patent Document 4: JP-A-5-295634
発明の開示  Disclosure of the invention
発明が解決しょうとする課題  Problems to be solved by the invention
[0010] 本発明は、力かる従来技術の背景に鑑み、従来になかった高いストレッチ性を有し 、さらに高密度で防水性を有する快適なポリエステル織物を提供せんとするものであ る。 [0010] In view of the background of strong conventional technology, the present invention is to provide a comfortable polyester woven fabric having a high stretch property that has never been obtained, and having a high density and a waterproof property.
課題を解決するための手段  Means for solving the problem
[0011] 本発明は、上記課題を解決するために、次のような手段を採用するものである。す なわち、 The present invention employs the following means in order to solve the above problems. In other words,
(1)タテ糸とョコ糸の一方の糸に単繊維繊度が 0. 01デシテックス以上 1. 1デシテ ックス以下である極細繊維糸を使用し、他の一方の糸に少なくとも一成分がポリトリメ チレンテレフタレートを主体とするポリエステルからなるポリエステル系重合体を繊維 長さ方向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型に貼り合わせた複合繊維の マルチフィラメント糸を用い、かつタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総和 力 S1500以上 2500以下であることを特徴とするポリエステル織物。 [0012] (2)初期撥水度が 4以上であることを特徴とする前記(1)に記載のポリエステル織 物。 (1) Use one ultrafine fiber yarn with a single fiber fineness of 0.01 decitex or more for one of the warp and horizontal yarns and 1.1 decitex or less. At least one component of the other yarn is polytrimethylene. Uses multifilament yarns of composite fibers in which a polyester-based polymer consisting mainly of terephthalate is bonded to the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type along the fiber length direction, and finishes warp and horizontal yarns. The total power of the cover factor S1500 or more and 2500 or less, polyester fabric characterized by [0012] (2) The polyester woven fabric according to (1), wherein the initial water repellency is 4 or more.
[0013] (3)前記複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸を用いた方向の織物伸長率が 10%以上で あることを特徴とする前記(1)または(2)に記載のポリエステル織物。  [0013] (3) The polyester woven fabric according to (1) or (2) above, wherein a woven fabric elongation rate in a direction using the composite fiber multifilament yarn is 10% or more.
[0014] (4)耐水圧が 300mm以上、好ましくは 400mm以下であることを特徴とする前記(1[0014] (4) The above-mentioned (1) characterized in that the water pressure resistance is 300 mm or more, preferably 400 mm or less.
)〜(3)のレ、ずれかに記載のポリエステル織物。 ) To (3), the polyester fabric according to any one of the above.
[0015] (5)スポーツ衣料、アウトドア用衣料、婦人外衣、裏地、および肌着から選ばれる用 途に用いられることを特徴とする前記(1)〜(4)のいずれかに記載のポリエステル織 物。 [0015] (5) The polyester woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (4), wherein the polyester woven fabric is used for an application selected from sports clothing, outdoor clothing, women's outerwear, lining, and underwear. .
発明の効果  The invention's effect
[0016] 本発明によれば、ストレッチ性に優れた防水性ポリエステル織物を提供できることが でき、スポーツ衣料全般、アウトドア用衣料全般、婦人外衣、裏地全般および肌着か ら選ばれる用途に広く使用される。そして本発明織物を用いることによって、従来に ない優れた機能を備える衣料品'繊維製品の製造を実現することができる。  [0016] According to the present invention, a waterproof polyester fabric excellent in stretchability can be provided, and it is widely used for applications selected from sports clothing in general, outdoor clothing in general, women's outerwear, general lining and underwear. . By using the woven fabric of the present invention, it is possible to realize the production of a garment 'fiber product having an unprecedented function.
発明を実施するための最良の形態  BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0017] 本発明は、タテ糸とョコ糸の一方の糸に単繊維繊度が 0. 01デシテックス以上 1. 1 デシテックス以下である極細繊維糸を使用し、他の一方の糸に少なくとも一成分がポ リトリメチレンテレフタレートを主体とするポリエステルからなるポリエステル系重合体を 繊維長さ方向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型に貼り合わせた複合繊 維のマルチフィラメント糸を用いるものである。 [0017] The present invention uses an ultrafine fiber yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.01 decitex or more and 1.1 decitex or less for one of the warp and horizontal yarns, and at least one component for the other one of the yarns. Uses a multifilament yarn of a composite fiber in which a polyester polymer composed of polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate is bonded to the side-by-side type or the eccentric core-sheath type along the fiber length direction.
[0018] 本発明におけるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維もしくは偏心芯鞘型の少なくとも一成 分を構成するポリトリメチレンテレフタレート(以下、 PTTという)を主体とするポリエス テル系重合体は、テレフタル酸を主たる酸成分とし、 1 , 3—プロパンジオールを主た るグリコール成分として得られるポリエステルである。ただし、 20モル0 /0以下、より好ま しくは 10モル%以下の割合で他のエステル結合形成可能な共重合成分を含むもの であってもよレ、。共重合可能な化合物としては、例えばイソフタル酸、コハク酸、シク 口へキサンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、ダイマ酸、セバシン酸、 5 _ナトリウムスルホイ ソフタル酸などのジカルボン酸類、エチレングリコール、ジエチレングリコール、ブタン ジオール、ネオペンチルグリコール、シクロへキサンジメタノール、ポリエチレングリコ ール、ポリプロピレングリコールなどのジオール類を挙げることができる力 これらに限 定されるものではなレ、。また、必要に応じて、艷消し剤となる二酸化チタン、滑剤とし てのシリカやアルミナの微粒子、抗酸化剤としてヒンダードフエノール誘導体、着色顔 料などを添カ卩してもよい。 [0018] In the present invention, the polyester-based polymer mainly comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PTT) constituting at least one component of the side-by-side type composite fiber or the eccentric core-sheath type is a main acid component of terephthalic acid. And 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component. However, 20 mol 0/0 or less, it may also be one more preferred properly containing other ester bonds can form a copolymer component in a proportion of 10 mol% or less Re. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5_sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and other dicarboxylic acids, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butane. The ability to mention diols such as diol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc. Further, if necessary, titanium dioxide serving as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles serving as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives or coloring pigments serving as an antioxidant may be added.
[0019] サイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型複合繊維の成分としては、 PTT同士であつ て、固有粘度の異なるものを貼り合わせた PTT100%のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維 もしくは偏心芯鞘型のマルチフィラメント延伸糸等も好ましい。さらに好ましくは、一方 が ΡΤΤを主体とするポリエステル成分(高収縮成分)で、他方がポリエチレンテレフタ レート(以下、 PETとレ、う)を主体とするポリエステル成分 (低収縮成分)である 2種類 のポリエステル系重合体を繊維長さ方向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型に貼り合わせた 複合繊維もしくは偏心芯鞘型に紡糸された複合繊維のマルチフィラメント糸が、捲縮 発現後の伸縮率および伸縮弾性率を極めて高くでき、かつ PTTと PETとの界面接 着性が良好で、製糸性が安定していること、および力学的特性、化学的特性および 原料価格の点から好ましい。さらに、ストレッチ性を最大に発現させるには、これらの 複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸を仮撚り加工糸とすることが好ましレ、。  [0019] The components of the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber include PTT 100% side-by-side type composite fiber or eccentric core-sheath type multifilament drawn yarn that are bonded together with different intrinsic viscosities. Is also preferable. More preferably, one is a polyester component mainly composed of soot (high shrinkage component), and the other is a polyester component mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as PET). Multi-filament yarns of composite fibers that are spun into a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction or composite fibers that are spun into an eccentric core-sheath type have a stretch rate and elastic modulus after crimping. It can be very high, has good interface adhesion between PTT and PET, is stable in spinning, and is preferable in terms of mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material costs. Furthermore, in order to maximize stretch properties, it is preferable to use these composite fiber multifilament yarns as false twisted yarns.
[0020] PETとしては、テレフタル酸を主たる酸成分とし、エチレングリコールを主たるグリコ ール成分として得られるポリエステルが好ましい。ただし、他のエステル結合を形成 可能な共重合が 20モル%以下の割合で含まれるものも好ましぐ 10モル%以下の 割合で含まれるものよりは好ましい。共重合可能な化合物として、たとえばスルフォン 酸、ナトリウムスルフォン酸、硫酸、硫酸エステル、硫酸ジェチル、硫酸ェチル、脂肪 族スルフォン酸、エタンスルフォン酸、クロ口ベンゼンスルフォン酸、脂環式スルフォン 酸、イソフタル酸、セバシン酸、ァゼライン酸、ダイマー酸、アジピン酸、シユウ酸、デ カンジカルボン酸、などのジカルボン酸、 ρ—ヒドロキシ安息香酸、 ε—力プロラタトン などのヒドロキシカルボン酸などのジカルボン酸類、トリエチレングリコール、ポリェチ レングリコール、プロパンジオール、ブタンジオール、ペンタンジオール、ハイド口キノ ン、ビスフエノール Αなどのジオール類が好ましく使用される。  [0020] The PET is preferably a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and ethylene glycol as the main glycol component. However, it is preferable to use a copolymer that can form other ester bonds in a proportion of 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, sulfate ester, jetyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethanesulfonic acid, black benzene sulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, Dicarboxylic acids such as sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acids such as ρ-hydroxybenzoic acid, ε-force prolataton, triethylene glycol, polyethylene Diols such as lenglycol, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hydrated quinone, and bisphenolΑ are preferably used.
[0021] また、必要に応じて、艷消し剤となる二酸化チタン、滑剤としてのシリカやアルミナの 微粒子、抗酸化剤としてヒンダードフエノール誘導体、着色顔料などの添加してもよ レ、。 [0021] Further, if necessary, titanium dioxide serving as a matting agent, silica or alumina serving as a lubricant, Fine particles, hindered phenol derivatives and coloring pigments may be added as antioxidants.
[0022] また、 PTTと他成分とのサイドバイサイド型複合繊維とする場合、製糸性および繊 維長さ方向のコイルの寸法均質性の点で、 PTT成分が複合繊維中、 30〜70重量 %であることが好ましぐさらには、 45〜65重量%であることが好ましい。  [0022] In addition, when a side-by-side type composite fiber of PTT and other components is used, the PTT component is 30 to 70% by weight in the composite fiber in terms of yarn production and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. More preferably, it is preferably 45 to 65% by weight.
[0023] サイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型複合繊維の断面形状は、丸断面、三角断面 、マルチローバル断面、偏平断面、ダルマ型断面、 X型断面その他の異形断面であ つてもよいが、捲縮発現性、捲縮の均一性から、偏平断面で特にキノコ型あるいはダ ルマ型断面の形状のものが好ましレ、。他には丸断面の半円状サイドバイサイドや軽 量、保温を狙った中空サイドバイサイド、ドライ風合いを狙った三角断面サイドバイサ イド等が好ましく用いられる。  [0023] The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type or the eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobe cross section, a flat cross section, a Dalma type cross section, an X type cross section, or other irregular cross sections. From the standpoint of expression and uniformity of crimp, a flat cross-section with a mushroom-type or dharma-type cross-section is particularly preferred. In addition, a semicircular side-by-side with a round cross-section, a hollow side-by-side aiming at light weight and heat retention, and a triangle-shaped side-by-side aiming at a dry texture are preferably used.
[0024] ここでいぅキノコ型扁平断面とは、例えば、高伸縮性ポリマーのホモ PTTと低固有 粘度ホモ PETを用いる場合を例に挙げれば、それぞれのポリマーを別々に溶融し、 複合紡糸扁平口金から張り合わせ複合紡糸することにより得られるサイドバイサイド 型複合繊維であり、糸の断面形状は、低固有粘度ホモ PETはキノコの傘部、高伸縮 性ポリマーのホモ PTTはキノコの柄部に似た断面形状である。  [0024] Here, the mushroom-type flat cross section is, for example, a case where a high stretch polymer homo PTT and a low intrinsic viscosity homo PET are used as an example. This is a side-by-side type composite fiber obtained by laminating composite spinning from the base. The cross-sectional shape of the yarn is a low intrinsic viscosity homo-PET with a mushroom umbrella and a highly stretchable polymer homo PTT with a cross-section similar to a mushroom handle. Shape.
[0025] 本発明のサイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸の原 糸の総繊度は、 22〜330デシテックスが好ましぐ 40〜: 165デシテックスがより好まし レ、。 22デシテックス以上とすることで、捲縮によるストレッチ性の実効を充分に得るこ とができ、また 330デシテックス以下とすることによりシボ感を抑えることができる。さら に、 56〜: 165デシテックスのものが繊細な風合いとストレッチ性があるので、特に好ま しい。  [0025] The total fineness of the side yarns of the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably 22 to 330 dtex. 40 to 165 dtex is more preferable. By setting it to 22 dtex or more, it is possible to obtain a sufficient stretch effect by crimping, and by setting it to 330 dtex or less, it is possible to suppress the wrinkle feeling. Furthermore, 56 ~: 165 dtex is particularly preferred because of its delicate texture and stretch.
[0026] 上記複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸の単繊維繊度は、 1. 1〜: 10デシテックスが好ま しぐより好ましくは 1.:!〜 6デシテックスのものが、シボ感がなぐかつストレッチ '性の ノ ランスがよぐ好ましい。  [0026] The single fiber fineness of the above-mentioned composite fiber multifilament yarn is preferably 1.1 to 10 decitex, more preferably 1 .:! To 6 decitex. A lance is better.
[0027] 本発明のポリエステル複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸は、撚り数が 0である力 \または  [0027] The polyester composite fiber multifilament yarn of the present invention is a force having a twist number of 0 or
800tZm以下で加撚されていることが好ましレ、。 800t/mを越えるものは撚りが強く 、ハードな風合いとなりソフトな風合いが得られないこと、ピリツキ、スナールと呼ばれ る撚りの反転などの問題がある。撚り数を 800tZm以下とすることで、捲縮発現性、 ソフト風合い、巻き返しカ卩ェ通過性、撚り止めセットが不要であり、品質、加工通過性 ともいずれも極めて好ましいものが得られる。 Preferably it is twisted at 800tZm or less. Those that exceed 800t / m have a strong twist, and a hard texture cannot be obtained. There are problems such as reversal of twisting. By setting the number of twists to 800 tZm or less, there is no need for crimping, soft texture, rewinding caulking and twisting set, and both quality and processing passability are extremely favorable.
[0028] 本発明における PTTを主体とするポリエステル系重合体を少なくとも一成分とする 複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸は織物全量に対して 10〜50重量%含有されているこ とが、織物としての十分なストレッチ性を得るためには、好ましい。より好ましくは 20〜 40重量%である。 [0028] The composite fiber multifilament yarn comprising at least one polyester-based polymer mainly composed of PTT in the present invention is contained in an amount of 10 to 50% by weight based on the total amount of the fabric. It is preferable for obtaining stretchability. More preferably, it is 20 to 40% by weight.
[0029] 本発明のポリエステル複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸は、熱処理により捲縮発現させ た後の伸縮伸長率が 10%以上であることが、本発明の目的とする適度なストレッチ 特性を織物に与える上で好ましい。より好ましくは 20%以上さらに好ましくは 25%以 上、 30%以上であり、一方、 100%以下であることが好ましい。  [0029] The polyester composite fiber multifilament yarn of the present invention has a stretch elongation ratio of 10% or more after being crimped by heat treatment in order to give the fabric an appropriate stretch property as an object of the present invention. Is preferable. More preferably, it is 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more, and 30% or more, while it is preferably 100% or less.
[0030] また、伸縮弾性率については 70%以上であること、さらには 90%以上であることが 好ましい。伸縮弾性率が 70%に満たないものは織物基布ストレッチ回復性が不足し 、縫製品などにした場合に生地が伸びた状態で回復しにくぐわらい現象が発生する 場合がある。一方、 100%以下であることが好ましい。  [0030] The elastic modulus of elasticity is preferably 70% or more, and more preferably 90% or more. When the elastic modulus of elasticity is less than 70%, the fabric base fabric stretch recovery is insufficient, and when it is made into a sewn product, a phenomenon that it is difficult to recover when the fabric is stretched may occur. On the other hand, it is preferably 100% or less.
[0031] 本発明のポリエステル複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸の製造方法としては、 PTTを 主体とするポリエステル系重合体を少なくとも一成分としてサイドバイサイド型に複合 溶融紡糸し、延伸する。例えば、紡糸温度は 285〜320°Cで、紡糸速度は通常の未 延伸糸を作るように 900〜: 1600mZ分の間で行レ、、これを延伸倍率 2. 5〜4. 0倍 で延伸することによって得られる。  [0031] As a method for producing the polyester composite fiber multifilament yarn of the present invention, a polyester polymer mainly composed of PTT is used as at least one component, and is melt melt spun into a side-by-side type and stretched. For example, the spinning temperature is 285 to 320 ° C, and the spinning speed is 900 to 1600mZ to make a normal undrawn yarn, which is drawn at a draw ratio of 2.5 to 4.0 times. It is obtained by doing.
[0032] また、本発明におレ、て、 PTTZPTT同士のサイドバイサイド型のバイメタルの複合 繊維の場合、 PTTのポリマー固有粘度(IV)は 0. 5〜: 1. 50の高 IVのものと 0. 5〜0 . 7の低 IVのものとを貼り合わせた延伸糸が高いストレッチ性が得られるので好ましい 。固有粘度(IV値)は、常法によりオルソクロロフォノール中 25°Cで測定したものであ る。  [0032] Further, in the present invention, in the case of side-by-side bimetallic composite fibers of PTTZPTT, the polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of PTT is 0.5 to 1. A stretched yarn bonded with a low IV of 5 to 0.7 is preferable because high stretchability can be obtained. Intrinsic viscosity (IV value) was measured at 25 ° C in orthochlorophonol by a conventional method.
[0033] PTTZPETのサイドバイサイド型のバイメタルの場合、 PTTとして、ポリマー固有粘 度(IV)が、 1. 50〜: 1. 20の高 IVのものと、 PETとして、ポリマー固有粘度(IV)が 0. 5〜0. 7の低 IVのものとを貼り合わせた延伸糸が極めて高いストレッチ性が得られる ので、最も好ましい。この場合は延伸糸がそのままで使えて、高いストレッチ性が得ら れるので、効率良く製造ができ好ましい。 [0033] In the case of PTTZPET side-by-side bimetal, PTT has a polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.50 to: 1.20 high IV, and PET has a polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0. . Extremely high stretch properties can be obtained with drawn yarns bonded to low IV of 5 to 0.7 So most preferred. In this case, the drawn yarn can be used as it is, and a high stretch property can be obtained.
[0034] 本発明は、織物のタテ糸とョコ糸のどちらかにサイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘 型複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸をタテ糸とョコ糸の一方に用いるが他の一方の糸に 0. 01デシテックス以上 1. 1デシテックス以下である極細繊維糸を使用するものであ る。具体的には例えば島/海成分比 80/20においては、島本数 70本、フィラメント 数 9本、トータル繊度が 66デシテックスで単糸繊度が 0. 08デシテックス以上 1. 1デ シテックス以下が良い。好ましくは 0. 5デシテックスが良い。  [0034] In the present invention, a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath composite fiber multifilament yarn is used for one of the warp yarn and the horizontal yarn for either one of the warp yarn and the horizontal yarn. .01 dtex or more 1. Uses ultrafine fiber yarn that is 1 dtex or less. Specifically, for an island / sea ratio of 80/20, for example, 70 islands, 9 filaments, a total fineness of 66 dtex, and a single yarn fineness of 0.08 dtex or more and 1.1 dtex or less are preferable. 0.5 decitex is preferable.
[0035] なお、上記サイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸の 他方の糸である極細繊維糸は、 PET、 PPT、ポリブチレンテレフタレートなどのポリェ ステルマルチフィラメント糸など表面感、風合い、使用用途により適宜選択することが できる。  [0035] The ultrafine fiber yarn that is the other of the side-by-side type or the eccentric core-sheath type composite multifilament yarn is a surface feeling, texture, use such as a polyester multifilament yarn such as PET, PPT, and polybutylene terephthalate. It can be appropriately selected depending on the application.
[0036] 防水性機能を付与するのに仕上げ加工した後の製品の状態におけるタテ糸とョコ 糸のカバーファクターの総和が 1500以上 2500以下の高密度織物が良レ、。好ましく は 1700から 2300の高密度織物が良い。  [0036] A high-density woven fabric having a total cover factor of warp and horizontal yarns of 1500 to 2500 in the state of the finished product to provide a waterproof function is good. A high density fabric of 1700 to 2300 is preferred.
[0037] サイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸をタテ糸または ョコ糸のレ、ずれか一方のストレッチ付与を所望する方向に用レ、、織物とする。 [0037] A side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber multifilament yarn is used in a direction in which it is desired to apply a stretch of either a warp yarn or a horizontal yarn, and either of them, or a woven fabric.
[0038] 織物組織は平織りに限らず、サテン組織、ツイル組織やその他の各種変化組織を 広い範囲で採用することができる。特に平 2重織物にすることによりさらにソフトな風 合いとストレッチを付与することが可能である。 [0038] The woven structure is not limited to a plain weave, and a satin structure, a twill structure, and other various changed structures can be employed in a wide range. In particular, it is possible to give a softer texture and stretch by using a flat double woven fabric.
[0039] 製織する織機においては限定するものではなぐフライシャツトル、ウォータジェット ルーム、エアージェットルーム、レビアルームを用いることができる。 [0039] In a loom for weaving, a fly shirttle, a water jet room, an air jet room, and a revere room are not limited.
[0040] 製織後のリラックス熱処理、中間セット、アルカリ減量染色、撥水処理、仕上げセット 等は通常条件で実施可能であるが、リラックス熱処理においては、サイドバイサイド型 複合繊維の捲縮を、織物拘束力に打ち勝って充分に発現させるため、液中温度を 8[0040] Relaxing heat treatment after weaving, intermediate setting, alkali weight loss dyeing, water repellent treatment, finishing set, etc. can be carried out under normal conditions. However, in relaxing heat treatment, side-by-side type composite fibers are crimped to restrain the fabric. The temperature in the liquid should be 8
0°C以上とすることが好ましレ、。 It is preferable to be 0 ° C or higher.
[0041] 次に、サイドバイサイド型複合繊維もしくは偏心芯鞘型マルチフィラメント糸をタテ糸 またはョコ糸のいずれかに用いて製織した織物に撥水加工を施す。 撥水加工剤としては、例えばフッ素系、シリコン系、ワックス系およびパラフィン系等を 採用することができるが、撥水性を高めつつもソフトな感触を損なわない点で、特にフ ッ素系樹脂が好ましい。 [0041] Next, a water-repellent finish is applied to a woven fabric using side-by-side type composite fibers or eccentric core-sheath type multifilament yarns as either warp yarns or horizontal yarns. For example, fluorine-based, silicon-based, wax-based, and paraffin-based agents can be used as the water-repellent finishing agent. preferable.
[0042] 撥水加工の態様として例えば、フッ素系撥水剤、アミノブラスト樹脂、多官能ブロッ クイソシァネート基含有ウレタン樹脂、およびエチレンカーボネートを一浴に含む処 理液を調整し、前記織物を処理液に浸漬した後、加熱処理するのが好ましい。  [0042] As an embodiment of the water repellent treatment, for example, a treatment liquid containing a fluorine-based water repellent, an amino blast resin, a polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin, and ethylene carbonate in one bath is prepared, and the woven fabric is treated with the treatment liquid. It is preferable to heat-treat after being immersed in the film.
[0043] フッ素系撥水剤としては例えば、ベルフルォロアルキル基含有アクリル共重合体が 好ましい。フッ素系撥水剤は、ポリエステル系織物 100重量部に対し、好ましくは 0. 01〜: 10重量部、より好ましくは 0. 03〜5%重量部とするのが良い。  [0043] As the fluorine-based water repellent, for example, a fluoralkyl group-containing acrylic copolymer is preferable. The fluorine-based water repellent is preferably 0.01 to 10 parts by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 5% by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric.
[0044] アミノブラスト樹脂としては、例えば、トリメチロールメラミン、へキサメチロールメラミン などのメラミン樹脂、ジメチロールプロピレン尿素、ジメチロールエチレン尿素、ジメチ ロールヒドロキシン尿素などの尿素系樹脂、ジメチロールゥロン樹脂等を用いることが できる。アミノブラスト樹脂の使用量は、処理するポリエステル系織物 100重量部に対 し、固形分換算で好ましくは 0. 01〜: 10重量部、より好ましくは 0. 02〜:!重量部とす るのが良い。  [0044] Examples of aminoblast resins include melamine resins such as trimethylol melamine and hexamethylol melamine, urea-based resins such as dimethylol propylene urea, dimethylol ethylene urea, and dimethylol hydroxylin urea, and dimethyloluron resin. Etc. can be used. The amount of aminoblast resin used is preferably 0.01 to 10 parts by weight, more preferably 0.02 to: parts by weight in terms of solid content, based on 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric to be treated. Is good.
[0045] 多官能ブロックイソシァネート基含有ウレタン樹脂は、分子中に 2個以上ブロックイソ シァネート官能基を含むものが好ましい。多官能ブロックイソシァネート基含有ウレタ ン樹脂の量は、処理するポリエステル系織物 100重量部に対し、固形分換算で好ま しくは 0. 0:!〜 4重量部とするのが良い。  [0045] The polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin preferably contains two or more block isocyanate functional groups in the molecule. The amount of the polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin is preferably from 0.0 :! to 4 parts by weight in terms of solid content with respect to 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric to be treated.
[0046] エチレンカーボネートの配合は、撥水加工の湿潤状態での耐摩耗性を得ることが できるので好ましレ、。力かるエチレンカーボネートの使用量は、ポリエステル系織物 1 00重量部に対し、好ましくは 0. 01〜30重量部、より好ましくは 2〜: 10重量部でとす るのが良い。エチレンカーボネートが多すぎると、ポリエステル系織物の溶解により織 物風合いが硬くなる傾向にあり、少なすぎると耐磨耗性が低下する傾向にある。  [0046] The blending of ethylene carbonate is preferable because it can provide abrasion resistance in a wet state of water-repellent processing. The amount of ethylene carbonate used is preferably 0.01 to 30 parts by weight, more preferably 2 to 10 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the polyester fabric. If the amount of ethylene carbonate is too large, the texture of the fabric tends to become hard due to dissolution of the polyester fabric, and if it is too small, the wear resistance tends to decrease.
[0047] 本発明のポリエステル系撥水織物の、撥水性能は初期撥水度が 4以上、洗濯 20回 後が 3以上であることが好ましい。初期撥水度とは、実施例中の「測定方法」にて定義 される撥水性能である。撥水度が 3以上であれば、小雨の中で短時間の着用であれ ば、雨は織物内に浸透することはほとんど無い。 [0048] 本発明のポリエステル系撥水織物は、タテョコの少なくとも一方について、織物伸 長率が 10%以上であることが重要である。織物伸長率とは、実施例中の「測定方法」 にて定義されるストレッチ性のパラメータである。織物伸長率が 10%未満である場合 には、人体の運動時の皮膚の伸縮に追随できず、満足のいく着心地のものが得られ ず、より好ましくは 20%以上さらに好ましくは 25%以上である。一方、 30。/o以下であ ること力 S好ましレ、。 [0047] The water-repellent performance of the polyester-based water-repellent fabric of the present invention is preferably an initial water repellency of 4 or more and 3 or more after 20 washings. The initial water repellency is the water repellency defined by “Measurement method” in the examples. If the water repellency is 3 or more, the rain will hardly penetrate into the fabric if it is worn for a short time in light rain. [0048] In the polyester-based water-repellent fabric of the present invention, it is important that the stretch rate of the fabric is 10% or more for at least one of the lengths. The fabric elongation rate is a stretch property parameter defined in “Measurement method” in the examples. When the fabric elongation rate is less than 10%, it cannot follow the expansion and contraction of the skin during the movement of the human body, and a satisfactory comfort cannot be obtained, more preferably 20% or more, more preferably 25% or more. It is. Meanwhile, 30. The power of being less than / o.
さらに、本発明のポリエステル系撥水織物は、 300mm以上であれば小雨の中での 着用において短時間であればあめは織物内に浸透することはほとんどない。  Furthermore, if the polyester water-repellent woven fabric of the present invention is 300 mm or more, candy hardly penetrates into the woven fabric for a short time when worn in light rain.
実施例  Example
[0049] 実施例に用いた評価は次の方法で評価した。  [0049] The evaluation used in the examples was evaluated by the following method.
[溶融粘度]  [Melt viscosity]
東洋精機 (株)社製キヤピログラフ 1Bを用いて、チッソ雰囲気下で測定した。実施例 中に示す温度(実施例 1においては 275°C)を測定温度とし、歪み速度 6080se c 1での測定を 3回行い、平均値を溶融粘度とした。  Measurement was performed in a nitrogen atmosphere using a Capillograph 1B manufactured by Toyo Seiki Co., Ltd. The temperature shown in the examples (275 ° C in Example 1) was taken as the measurement temperature, the measurement was carried out three times at a strain rate of 6080 sec 1 and the average value was taken as the melt viscosity.
[織物伸長率]  [Textile elongation rate]
JIS L_ 1096の伸長率 A法(定速伸長法)で測定した。  JIS L — 1096 elongation rate Measured by A method (constant speed elongation method).
[糸の伸縮伸長率]  [Stretch rate of yarn]
JIS -L1013 C法で評価した。値が大なる程、伸長性に優れ良好。  It was evaluated by the JIS-L1013 C method. The larger the value, the better the extensibility.
[糸の伸縮弾性率]  [Elastic elasticity of yarn]
JIS -L1013 C法で評価した。値が大なる程、回復性に優れ良好。  It was evaluated by the JIS-L1013 C method. The higher the value, the better the recovery.
[カバーファクター]  [Cover factor]
(タテ糸繊度の平方根)と(タテ糸密度)の積と(ョコ糸繊度の平方根)と(ョコ糸密度) の積との和力 求めた。  The sum of the product of (square root of warp yarn fineness) and (warp yarn density) and the product of (square root of horizontal yarn fineness) and (horizontal yarn density) was determined.
[耐水圧]  [Water pressure resistance]
JIS— L1092高耐水圧法で測定した。  Measured by JIS L1092 high water pressure resistance method.
[撥水度]  [Water repellency]
JIS L— 1092スプレー試験で測定した。撥水加工後、洗濯をしていない状態での 撥水度を初期撥水度とし、また、 JIS L— 0217の 103に準じて 20回洗濯した後の撥 水度についてもあわせて評価した。 Measured by JIS L-1092 spray test. After water-repellent processing, the initial water repellency is the water repellency in the unwashed state, and the water repellency after washing 20 times according to 103 of JIS L-0217 The water content was also evaluated.
[ソフト感]  [Soft feeling]
風合いを 10人の風合い判定者で張り、ソフト感を判定し、次の 4段階で評価した。  The texture was stretched by 10 texture assessors to determine the softness and evaluated in the following four stages.
[0050] ◎:極めて良好 [0050] A: Extremely good
〇:良好  Y: Good
Δ :やや良好  Δ: Slightly good
X:不良  X: Defect
[実施例 1]  [Example 1]
(1)原糸  (1) Raw yarn
ョコ糸に固有粘度(IV)が 1 · 40、 275°Cにおける溶融粘度が 750poiseのホモ PT Tと固有粘度(IV)が 0. 60、 275°Cにおける溶融粘度が 650poiseのホモ PETをそ れぞれ別々に溶融し、紡糸温度 275°Cで 24孔の複合紡糸口金から複合比(重量% ) 50 : 50で吐出し、紡糸速度 1400m/分で引取り 56デシテックス、 24フィラメントの サイドバイサイド型複合構造未延伸糸(繊維断面は略半円接合型)を得た。さらにホ ットロール—熱板系延伸機 (接糸長:20cm、表面粗度: 3S)を用い、ホットロール温 度 75°C、熱板温度 170°C、延伸倍率 3. 3倍で延伸し次いで一旦引き取ることなぐ 連続して 0. 9倍でリラックスして卷き取り、 55デシテックス、 24フィラメントの延伸糸を 得た。紡糸、延伸とも製糸性は良好であり、糸切れは発生しなかった。延伸糸は扁平 キノコ型断面糸で強度: 4. 3cN/デシテックス、伸縮伸長率が 32%、伸縮弾性率が 80%であった。  For the horizontal yarn, homo-PTT with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1 · 40, melt viscosity at 275 ° C of 750poise and homo-PET with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 and melt viscosity at 275 ° C of 650poise are used. Each melted separately, discharged from a 24-hole composite spinneret at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C at a composite ratio (% by weight) 50:50, and taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min. 56 decitex, 24-filament side-by-side type A composite structure unstretched yarn (fiber cross section is substantially semicircular bonded type) was obtained. Furthermore, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine (wetted length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3S), the hot roll temperature was 75 ° C, the hot plate temperature was 170 ° C, and the draw ratio was 3.3 times. Without pulling once, it was continuously relaxed by 0.9 times and wound to obtain 55 dtex, 24 filament drawn yarn. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred. The drawn yarn was a flat mushroom type cross-sectional yarn having a strength of 4.3 cN / dtex, a stretch elongation of 32%, and a stretch elastic modulus of 80%.
(2)織物  (2) Woven fabric
タテ糸に 56デシテックス 144フィラメトからなるポリエステル極細ウーリー糸(南亜社 ウーリ加工糸 56T— 144— SP)をタテ糸に実撚を施すことなく使用する。  Polyester ultra-fine wooly yarn (Nanya Co., Ltd. Wool-processed yarn 56T-144-SP) made of 56 dtex 144 filament is used for the warp yarn without actual twisting.
[0051] ョコ糸に上記で得られた、前述複合糸を 2本引き揃えて 800tZmの撚糸を施し、 1 10デシテックスとして平織織物をウォータージェット織機にてタテ、ョコカ S127 X 85本 /2. 54cmの生機密度で製織した。タテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総 禾ロは 1748/2. 54cmであった。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。 [0051] The two above-mentioned composite yarns obtained above are aligned to the horizontal yarn, and 800tZm of twisted yarn is applied, and the plain weave fabric is warped with a water jet loom as 1 10 dtex, and the horizontal yarn is S127 X 85/2. Weaved at a green density of 54 cm. The total cover factor of warp and horizontal finish was 1748 / 2.54cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
(3)染め後加工 得られた生機をオープンソーパーで 95°Cでリラックス熱処理し、乾燥後、乾熱 180 °Cで中間セットし、 130°Cで染色後乾燥した。 (3) Processing after dyeing The resulting raw machine was relaxed and heat-treated at 95 ° C with an open soaper, dried, intermediately set at 180 ° C dry heat, dyed at 130 ° C and dried.
[0052] 乾燥後、下記成分を含む撥水処理液にパデイングした。この処理液のピックアップ は 60%であった。っレ、で 110°Cで 2分間乾燥し、 160°Cで 45秒間熱処理を行って撥 水加工を施し、本発明のポリエステル系撥水織物を得た。 [0052] After drying, padding was performed on a water-repellent treatment solution containing the following components. The pick-up of this treatment solution was 60%. The polyester water-repellent fabric of the present invention was obtained by drying at 110 ° C. for 2 minutes and heat-treating at 160 ° C. for 45 seconds to give a water-repellent finish.
く撥水加工剤〉フッ素系撥水剤:マックスガード EC— 400 ( (株)京絹化成製); 60g ZLアミノブラスト樹脂:スミテックスレジン M - 3 (住友化学工業 (株)製); 5gZLァミノ ブラスト樹脂用触媒:スミテックスァクセレレータ ACX (住友化学工業 (株)製); lg/L 多官能ブロックイソシァネート基含有ウレタン樹脂:スーパーフレッシュ JB— 7200 ( ( 株)京絹化成製);8g/Lエチレンカーボネート (東亜合成化学工業 (株)製) ; 20g/ Lブロックイソシァネト用触媒:カタリスト WL— 2 ( (株)京絹化成製); lg/L。  Water repellent> Fluorine-based water repellent: Maxguard EC-400 (manufactured by Kyo Silk Chemical Co., Ltd.); 60g ZL aminoblast resin: Sumtex Resin M-3 (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.); 5gZL Amino Blast Resin Catalyst: Sumitex Suxelerator ACX (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.); lg / L Polyfunctional block isocyanate group-containing urethane resin: Super Fresh JB— 7200 (manufactured by Kyokin Kasei Co., Ltd.) ); 8 g / L ethylene carbonate (manufactured by Toa Gosei Chemical Co., Ltd.); Catalyst for 20 g / L block isocyanate: Catalyst WL-2 (manufactured by Kyokin Kasei Co., Ltd.); lg / L.
仕上反の密度はタテ、ョコで 184 X 90本 /2. 54cmであった。  The density of the finished fabric was 184 x 90 / 2.54 cm.
[0053] 得られた織物の表面は官能評価の結果、シボがなぐ滑らかで光沢があり、かつソ フトな風合いで、ョコ方向ストレッチを有する織物であった。また、この織物の織物伸 張率を測定した結果、タテ方向は 3%、ョコ方向は 20%であった。なお、耐水圧は 40 Ommであった。またこのときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総和は 2 200/2. 54cmであった。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。 [0053] As a result of sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having a smooth, glossy and soft texture without wrinkles and having a horizontal stretch. As a result of measuring the stretch rate of this fabric, the warp direction was 3% and the horizontal direction was 20%. The water pressure resistance was 40 Omm. At this time, the sum of the cover factors of the warp and horizontal finishes was 2 200 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
<カレンダー加工 >  <Calendar processing>
撥水加工で得られ生機をカレンダー加工を行う圧力は 10トン〜 20トンカレンダ一部 の金属の温度は 170°C〜 180°C、糸速は 1 OmZmin〜 20mZminで加ェを行つた  The pressure for calendering the raw machine obtained by water repellent processing is 10 to 20 tons. The temperature of some metals is 170 ° C to 180 ° C, and the yarn speed is 1 OmZmin to 20mZmin.
[0054] また、初期撥水度は 4、洗濯 20回後の撥水度は 3と、撥水性に優れた織物であった [0054] Further, the initial water repellency was 4, and the water repellency after 20 washings was 3, which was a fabric excellent in water repellency.
[0055] [実施例 2] [0055] [Example 2]
タテ糸に島成分として固有粘度(IV)が 0. 655のホモ PET、海成分として固有粘度 (IV)が 0. 546で、 5—ナトリユウムスルホイソフタル酸を PET中の酸性分に対して 5. 0モル%共重合した PETを用い島成分:海成分の比が 80 : 20、島本数 8本でフィラメ ント数 36本でトータル繊度 66デシテックスの海島複合糸を用い、(脱海後のタテ糸単 糸繊度は 0. 18デシテックス)、ョコ糸に実施例 1のョコ糸を用レ、、実施例 1と同規格 で製織した。このときの仕上反の密度はタテ、ョコで 127 X 85本 Z2. 54cmであった 。またこのときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総和は 1833/2. 54c mであった。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。 Homo PET with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.655 as an island component in the warp yarn, and an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.546 as a sea component, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with respect to the acid content in the PET Using 0 mol% copolymerized PET, the ratio of island component: sea component is 80:20, 8 islands, 36 filaments, and a total fineness of 66 decitex sea-island composite yarns. Single thread The yarn fineness was 0.18 dtex), the weft yarn of Example 1 was used as the weft yarn, and weaving was performed according to the same standards as in Example 1. At this time, the density of the finished fabric was 127 x 85 pieces Z2. 54 cm. The total cover factor of warp and horizontal yarn finishes was 1833 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
得られた織物を 1. 2wt%濃度の NAOHで処理を行い温度 90度 X 30分にてタテ糸 の海成分の溶解処理を行った。得られた生機について実施例 1と同条件で染色加工 および撥水加工を行った。このときの仕上反の密度はタテ、ョコで 160 X 90本 Z2. 5 4cmであった。またこのときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総和は 2 139/2. 54cmであった。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。  The resulting woven fabric was treated with 1.2 wt% NAOH, and the warp sea component was dissolved at a temperature of 90 degrees X 30 minutes. The obtained raw machine was dyed and water repellent processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. At this time, the density of the finished fabric was 160 × 90 pieces Z2.5 4 cm in length and width. The total cover factor for warp and horizontal yarn finishes was 2 139 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
得られた織物の表面は官能評価の結果、シボがなぐ滑らかで光沢が有り、かつソフ ト風合いであった。また、この織物の織物伸張率を測定した結果、タテ方向は 5%、ョ コ方向は 21 %であった。  As a result of sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained fabric was smooth, glossy and soft to the touch. As a result of measuring the stretch rate of this fabric, the warp direction was 5% and the horizontal direction was 21%.
なお、耐水圧は 300mmであった。  The water pressure resistance was 300 mm.
[0056] また、初期撥水度は 4、洗濯 20回後の撥水度は 3と、撥水性に優れた織物であった [0056] Further, the initial water repellency was 4, and the water repellency after 20 washings was 3, which was a fabric with excellent water repellency.
[0057] [実施例 3] [0057] [Example 3]
実施例 1のタテ糸に、ョコ糸の一方に実施例 1で得られたサイドバイサイド型複合繊 維 56デシテックスを実撚を施すことなくタテ糸に用レ、、ョコ糸のもう一方を 56デシテツ タス 48フィラメントからなるポリエステルウーリー糸を平織ョコ二重組織の織物をウォー タージェット織機にてタテ、ョコカ 49 X 120本 Z2. 54cmの生機密度で製織した。 このときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総和は 2200/2. 54cmで あった。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。  Use the side-by-side type composite fiber 56 decitex obtained in Example 1 for the warp yarn of Example 1 for warp yarn without applying actual twist to the warp yarn, and the other side of the warp yarn 56 Polyester wool yarn composed of 48 filaments was woven with a plain weft double-tissue fabric using a water jet loom. At this time, the sum of the cover factors for the warp and horizontal finishes was 2200 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
得られた生機について実施例 1と同条件で染色加工および撥水加工を行った。仕上 反の密度は経緯で 200 X 120本 Z2. 54cmであった。このときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕 上げのカバーファクターの総和は 2614/2. 54cmであった。その他詳細は表 1に記 載した。  The obtained raw machine was dyed and water-repellent processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The density of the finished fabric was 200 X 120 pieces Z2. 54 cm. The total cover factor for the warp and horizontal yarn finishes at this time was 2614 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
[0058] 得られた織物の表面は官能評価の結果、シボがなぐ滑らかで光沢があり、かつソ フト風合いであった。また、この織物の織物伸張率を測定した結果、タテ方向は 3%、 ョコ方向は 25%であった。 [0058] As a result of sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric was smooth and glossy without wrinkles, and had a soft texture. Also, as a result of measuring the stretch rate of this fabric, the warp direction was 3%, Horizontal direction was 25%.
なお、耐水圧は 350mmであった。  The water pressure resistance was 350 mm.
[0059] また、初期撥水度は 4、洗濯 20回後の撥水度は 3と、撥水性に優れた織物であった [0059] Further, the initial water repellency was 4, and the water repellency after washing 20 times was 3, which was a fabric with excellent water repellency.
[0060] [比較例 1] [0060] [Comparative Example 1]
タテ糸に 56デシテックス 24フィラメントからなる東レポリエステルウーリー加工糸を 用レ、、ョコ糸に 56デシテックス 12フィラメントのサイドバイサイド型ストレットヤーン(商 品名「〇^¾-11」)を使用して2本引き揃ぇて8001 /111の撚糸を施し、 110デシテック スとして平織織物をウォータージェット織機にてタテ、ョコカ 27 X 85本 /2. 54cm の生機密度で製織した。このときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総 和は 1748/2. 54cmであった。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。  Use warp yarn with Toray polyester wooly processed yarn consisting of 24 decitex 24 filaments, double draw using 56 decitex 12 filament side-by-side stretch yarn (trade name “〇 ^ ¾-11”) for horizontal yarn We prepared 8001/111 twisted yarns, and weaved plain weave fabrics as 110 dtex using a water jet loom at a raw machine density of 27 X 85 / 2.5 cm. The total cover factor for warp and horizontal yarn finishes was 1748 / 2.54 cm. Other details are listed in Table 1.
得られた生機を実施例 1と同条件で染色加工を実施した。仕上反の密度はタテ、ョコ で 164 X 90本 /2. 54cmであった。このときのタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファ クタ一の総和は 2200/2. 54cmであった。さらに、撥水加工し、織物伸張率を測定 した結果、タテ方向は 3%、ョコ方向は 10%と、満足の行くものではなかった。なお、 耐水圧については 200mmで満足のレ、くものではなかった。  The obtained raw machine was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The density of the finished fabric was 164 x 90 pieces / 2.54 cm. At this time, the sum of the cover factors for the warp and weft finish was 2200 / 2.54 cm. Furthermore, as a result of water repellent finishing and measuring the fabric stretch rate, the vertical direction was 3% and the horizontal direction was 10%, which was not satisfactory. The water pressure resistance was 200 mm, which was not satisfactory.
また、初期の撥水度 4、洗濯 20回後も撥水度 3と撥水性には優れた織物であった。  In addition, the fabric was excellent in water repellency and water repellency 3 after the initial water repellency 4 and after 20 washings.
[0061] このように本発明は、ストレッチ性は 20%以上もある。また防水性も 300mm以上の 高レ、高密度織物が得られた。その他詳細は表 1に記載した。  [0061] Thus, the present invention has a stretch property of 20% or more. A waterproof and high-density woven fabric of 300 mm or more was obtained. Other details are listed in Table 1.
[0062] [表 1] [0062] [Table 1]
Figure imgf000015_0001
本発明によれば、着用に快適なストレッチ性を有し、かつ高密度で防水性に優れた ポリエステル撥水織物を提供することができ、スポーツ衣料全般、アウトドア用衣料全 般、婦人外衣、裏地全般および肌着などの衣料用途で広く使用できる。
Figure imgf000015_0001
According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a polyester water-repellent woven fabric that has a stretch property that is comfortable to wear and that has high density and excellent waterproofness, and is generally used in sports clothing, general outdoor clothing, women's outerwear, lining. Can be used widely in general and clothing applications such as underwear.

Claims

請求の範囲 The scope of the claims
[1] タテ糸とョコ糸の一方の糸に単繊維繊度が 0· 01デシテックス以上 1. 1デシテックス 以下である極細繊維糸を使用し、他の一方の糸に少なくとも一成分がポリトリメチレン テレフタレートを主体とするポリエステルからなるポリエステル系重合体を繊維長さ方 向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型もしくは偏心芯鞘型に貼り合わせた複合繊維のマルチ フィラメント糸を用レ、、かつタテ糸とョコ糸の仕上げのカバーファクターの総和が 1500 以上 2500以下であることを特徴とするポリエステル織物。  [1] Use one ultrafine fiber yarn with a single fiber fineness of 0 · 01 decitex or more and 1.1 decitex or less for one of the warp and horizontal yarns, and at least one component of the other one is polytrimethylene Uses multifilament yarns of composite fibers in which a polyester-based polymer consisting mainly of terephthalate is bonded to the side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type along the fiber length direction. A polyester fabric characterized in that the sum of the cover factors for finishing is 1500 to 2500.
[2] 初期撥水度が 4以上であることを特徴とする請求項 1に記載のポリエステル織物。 [2] The polyester fabric according to claim 1, wherein the initial water repellency is 4 or more.
[3] 前記複合繊維マルチフィラメント糸を用いた方向の織物伸長率が 10%以上であるこ とを特徴とする請求項 1または 2に記載のポリエステル織物。 [3] The polyester fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a stretch rate of the fabric in the direction using the composite fiber multifilament yarn is 10% or more.
テル織物  Tell textile
[4] 耐水圧が 300mm以上であることを特徴とする請求項 1〜3のいずれかに記載のポリ エステル織物。  [4] The polyester fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which has a water pressure resistance of 300 mm or more.
[5] スポーツ衣料、アウトドア用衣料、婦人外衣、裏地、および肌着から選ばれる用途に 用いられることを特徴とする請求項 1〜4のいずれかに記載のポリエステル織物。  [5] The polyester fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyester fabric is used for an application selected from sports clothing, outdoor clothing, women's outerwear, lining, and underwear.
PCT/JP2006/325493 2006-12-21 2006-12-21 Polyester woven fabric WO2008075431A1 (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107237028A (en) * 2017-05-16 2017-10-10 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of outdoor activity takes the production technology of fabric

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2006161204A (en) * 2004-12-06 2006-06-22 Toray Ind Inc Polyester woven fabric
JP2006207057A (en) * 2005-01-27 2006-08-10 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Needle resistant woven fabric

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2006161204A (en) * 2004-12-06 2006-06-22 Toray Ind Inc Polyester woven fabric
JP2006207057A (en) * 2005-01-27 2006-08-10 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Needle resistant woven fabric

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN107237028A (en) * 2017-05-16 2017-10-10 江苏工程职业技术学院 A kind of outdoor activity takes the production technology of fabric

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