Classifications

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  • A61K31/045—Hydroxy compounds, e.g. alcohols; Salts thereof, e.g. alcoholates
  • A61K31/047—Hydroxy compounds, e.g. alcohols; Salts thereof, e.g. alcoholates having two or more hydroxy groups, e.g. sorbitol
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  • A61K31/164—Amides, e.g. hydroxamic acids of a carboxylic acid with an aminoalcohol, e.g. ceramides
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  • A61K31/40—Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins having five-membered rings with one nitrogen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. sulpiride, succinimide, tolmetin, buflomedil
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  • A61K31/575—Compounds containing cyclopenta[a]hydrophenanthrene ring systems; Derivatives thereof, e.g. steroids substituted in position 17 beta by a chain of three or more carbon atoms, e.g. cholane, cholestane, ergosterol, sitosterol
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  • A61K31/685—Diesters of a phosphorus acid with two hydroxy compounds, e.g. phosphatidylinositols one of the hydroxy compounds having nitrogen atoms, e.g. phosphatidylserine, lecithin
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  • A61K31/70—Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K31/715—Polysaccharides, i.e. having more than five saccharide radicals attached to each other by glycosidic linkages; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ethers, esters
  • A61K31/726—Glycosaminoglycans, i.e. mucopolysaccharides
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  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
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  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
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  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
  • A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
  • A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
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  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
  • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
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  • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
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  • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
  • A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Definitions

• one tactic has been to use one or more hydroxy acids or retinoic acid to stimulate the re-growth of dermal cells, without other components.
• This approach is flawed because it does not recognize that aging is caused by the deleterious interaction of multiple agents on the skin, from multiple sources, causing damage to the skin through multiple simultaneous damage pathways.
• More comprehensive studies have found that environmental factors, such as stress, sun exposure, and impurities in food, water, and air, also adversely
• RNS reactive nitrogen species
• ROS reactive oxygen species
• OOS oxidizing species
• ROS species include superoxide (O2 ⁇ ), hydrogen peroxide
• the OOS species include hypohalous acids (HOX) (where X is chloride, bromide, iodide), Z-amines (where Z is either chlorinated or ammo ⁇ iated amine containing compounds, the reactive nitrogen species ("RNS") nitric oxide (NO), ammonia, cyclooxygenase, phospholipase A2, phospholipase C and transition metals.
• HOX hypohalous acids
• RNS reactive nitrogen species
• Each of the ROS directfy or acting as an intermediate are thought to act on ceil membrane and/or other cellular components including organelles and their contents to adversely impact the skin.
• a topical skin treatment composition and method that provides a defense against each of the ROS, RNS, and OOS noted above.
• the present inventions are directed to compositions that include selected components that provide a defense against the various pathway mechanisms of free radicals, reactive oxygen species, reactive nitrogen species, and other oxidizing species noted above that adversely effect the human body, including the skin.
• the inventions therefore, also include methods for applying the compositions of the invention to the skin, to inhibit the causative factors that adversely effect the skin, and thereby treat and improve the quality of the skin.
• the compositions and methods of this invention are directed to the prevention of the adverse or detrimental effects of free radicals, reactive oxygen species, reactive nitrogen species, and other oxidizing species noted above, on the human body, including the skin.
• the present invention includes various compositions that include at least one anti-free radical component and/or an anti-superoxide component and/or an anti-hydrogen peroxide component and/or an anti-hydroxyl radical component and/or a chain breaking component.
• Embodiments of the present invention include compositions that include a component that aids in cellular energy product and/or a component that aids in collagen synthesis and/or elastin synthesis and/or inhibits their degradation, and/or a component that aids in or provides ce ⁇ uiar activity.
• a composition of the present invention that has been found to positively effect one or more of the foregoing factors, includes a citrus component, such as a grapefruit component, such as grapefruit extract, a superoxide drsmutase component, a glutathione component, a tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane component and/or a turmeric component, such as a tumeric extract, a bioflavonoid component, such as a citrus bioflavonoid component, a grape component, such as grape seed extract, a green tea component, such as a green tea extract, tocopherol, and/or a tocopheryl derivative such as tocophery! acetate.
• a citrus component such as a grapefruit component, such as grapefruit extract, a superoxide drsmutase component, a glutathione component, a tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane component and/or a turmeric component, such as a t
• composition that includes a soybean component, such as a soybean protein component, a rice component, such as rice protein and more particularly hydrolyzed rice protein, and a sunflower seed component, such as a sunflower seed extract.
• a soybean component such as a soybean protein component
• a rice component such as rice protein and more particularly hydrolyzed rice protein
• a sunflower seed component such as a sunflower seed extract
• a further composition of the present invention includes a centella asiatica component, such as a centella asiatica extract, a corn kernel component, such as a corn kernel extract, a seaweed component, such as a seaweed extract, and ubiquinone (coenzyme Q).
• a centella asiatica component such as a centella asiatica extract
• a corn kernel component such as a corn kernel extract
• a seaweed component such as a seaweed extract
• ubiquinone coenzyme Q
• composition of the present invention includes a rosemary component, such as a rosemary extract, a lecithin component, a ceramide component, such as a ceramide 3 component, a sitosterol component, such as beta sitosterol, a glycerin component, a panthenol component, a proline component, such as L- proline, and a hyaluronate component, such as sodium hyaluronate.
• a rosemary component such as a rosemary extract, a lecithin component, a ceramide component, such as a ceramide 3 component, a sitosterol component, such as beta sitosterol, a glycerin component, a panthenol component, a proline component, such as L- proline, and a hyaluronate component, such as sodium hyaluronate.
• the present invention further includes compositions containing a combination of one or more of each of the foregoing composition components mentioned in the paragraphs above and, more particularly, the active agents contained therein.
• compositions may be applied to the skin for example, by topically applying an amount, such as an effective amount, of one or more of the various compositions according to the invention.
• FIG. 1 is a graph showing the increase in erythema 30 minutes after
• UV exposure on human skin to which formulations were applied.
• FIG. 2 is a graph showing the increase in erythema 10 hours after UV exposure on human skin to which formulations were applied.
• FIG. 3 is a graph showing the effect of samples on procollagen secretion, The data are expressed as the collagen/viability ratio calculated by dividing the amount of procollagen detected in the tissue culture supernatants by WST-1 reduction as an indicator of cellular viability following the exposure period.
• FfG. 4 is a graph showing the effect of samples on elastin secretion.
• FIG. 5 is a graph showing the effect of samples on MMP-1 activity.
• the data are expressed as % control MMP-1 activity.
• the horizontal line denotes
• FIG. 6 is a graph showing the effect of samples on MMP-9 activity.
• the data are expressed as % control MMP-9 activity.
• the horizontal line denotes 100% activity.
• FtG. 7 is a graph showing the effect of samples on Elastase activity.
• the data are expressed as % control elastase activity.
• the horizontal line denotes
• FIG. 8 is a graph showing the effect of samples on NO production by
• L6 Lipochroman-6
• NT Nutriene tocotrienols
• TQS ⁇ -
• FlG. 9 is a graph showing the effect of samples on lipid staining in
• HEK001 keratinocytes Data are expressed as % control lipid from untreated cells.
• compositions that provide a defense mechanism against a variety of free radicals, reactive oxygen species, reactive nitrogen species, and other oxidizing species on the human body including the skin. These compositions assist in the maintaining and/or improving of the condition of the skin by, for example, increasing energy in cells of the skin and/or inhibiting adverse enzymes and/or maintaining and/or improving the quality and quantity of elastin, collagen, and glycosaminogiycan in the skin.
• compositions of the present invention will, generally speaking, include one or more of: a citrus component, such as a grapefruit component, such as a grapefruit extract component, preferably a grapefruit peel extract, and preferably the component of apigenin; a superoxide dismutase component; a glutathione component; a tetrahydrodtferuloylmethane component; a phenolic component, such as a polyphenol component; an essential oil component; an ascorbic acid component; a turmeric component, such as a tumeric extract; a flavonoid component, such as a bioflavonoid component, such as a citrus bioflavonoid; a grape component, such as grape seed extract; a green tea component, such as a green tea extract; tocopherol and/or derivatives thereof, such as tocopheryi acetate; a soybean component, such as a soybean protein component; a rice component, such as rice protein, and more particularly hydrolyzed
• tetraisopalmitate component a coenzyme component, such as ubiquinone (coenzyme Q); a rosemary component, such as a rosemary extract, and preferably the component of ursolic acid; a lecithin component; a ceramide component, such as ceramide 3; a beta sitosterol component; a glycerin component; a panthenol component, such as d-panthenol; an adenosine component; a proline component, such as L- proline; a hyaluronate component, such as sodium hyaluronate; a carbohydrate component; a B vitamin component; and a phylate component.
• coenzyme component such as ubiquinone (coenzyme Q)
• a rosemary component such as a rosemary extract, and preferably the component of ursolic acid
• lecithin component a ceramide component, such as ceramide 3
• the term "complex” means an admixture of various ingredients selected to focus around a common theme relating to the health and maintenance of mammalian skin.
• One such complex of ingredients could be focused on mediating effects of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species.
• One particular embodiment of such a composition that is generally useful for its antioxidant property of preventing free radical damage to the skin, thereby protecting against the aging effects from free radical damage, includes the combination of a citrus component, and preferably a citrus component that contains apigenin.
• the citrus component may be derived from lemon, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, peppers, buckwheat, bfack currents, apricots, cherries, grapes and prunes.
• a preferred citrus component is a grapefruit component, and more particularly, a grapefruit extract that includes apigenin or simply is apigenin. It has been found that citrus components, and in particular citrus components that contain apigenin, such as a fruit extract and, more particularly, a grape fruit extract, inhibit damage caused by the reactive nitrogen species, in particular, nitric oxide (NO) production. The citrus component has been further found to inhibit lipid peroxidation, as well as inflammation caused by free radicals. Thus, compositions of the present invention that contain a citrus component, and in particular a grape fruit extract component, preferably containing apigenin, have been found to inhibit damage to the skin caused by nitric oxide production and/or lipid peroxidation and/or inflammatory factors such as inflammation caused by free radicals.
• the composition generally further includes a superoxide dismutase component, which inhibits damage to proteins, elastin, collagen, and DNA, caused by superoxides that attack for example, enzymes; and a glutathione component, which inhibits damage caused by hydrogen peroxide.
• Additional components of this composition may include a phenolic component and/or one or more of the so-called “essential oils” and/or ascorbic acid (“vitamin C”) and/or tetrahydrod ⁇ feruloylmethane, which may, for example, be found in a tumeric component, such as a tumeric extract.
• Further components may include a fiavonoid component, such as a bioflavonoid component, such as a citrus bioflavonoid component from, for example, grapefruit, lemon, or orange; and a polyphenol component which may, for example, be found in a grape component, such as grape seed extract, and preferably procyahidolic oligomers, a green tea component, preferably including polyphenols, and particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), tocopherol, and/or tocopheryl acetate, are each components that inhibit damage caused by hydroxyl radicals which attack lipids.
• a fiavonoid component such as a bioflavonoid component, such as a citrus bioflavonoid component from, for example, grapefruit, lemon, or orange
• a polyphenol component which may, for example, be found in a grape component, such as grape seed extract, and preferably procyahidolic oligomers
• a green tea component preferably including polyphenols, and
• this composition includes grapefruit extract in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1%, superoxide dismutase in an amount of from about 0.0001% to about 0.01%, glutathione in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1%, tetrahydrodiferuloy methane or a tumeric extract in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 1%, citrus bioflavonoids in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 1%, grape seed extract in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 1%, green tea extract in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1%, tocopherol in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2%, tocopheryl acetate in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 5%.
• a composition generally as described above may maintain and/or improve skin quality, thereby maintaining a youthful appearance, by reducing the detrimental effects of one or more of inflammation, lipid peroxidation, and degradation of collagen, elastin, and DNA.
• a composition will generally include a soybean component, such as a soybean protein component, and preferably the isofiavones, such as genistein and daidzein.
• the soybean component has been found to be an inhibitor of the enzyme elastase, which is released to the skin in response to such factors as exposure the UV rays, dryness, and environmental stresses generaity.
• the soybean component helps maintain and/or increase firmness and elasticity of the skin, particularly those that derive from the UV rays of sun exposure.
• This embodiment of the composition will generally also include a rice component, such as rice protein, and more particularly a hydrolyzed rice protein, which has an inhibitory effect on the enzyme collagenase.
• the inhibition of collagenase aids in protecting collagen in the skin, thereby maintaining and/or improving the condition of the skin with respect to elasticity, firmness, wrinkling, dryness, and age spots.
• a sunflower seed component such as sunflower seed extract, may also be included in this embodiment.
• the sunflower seed component has been found to act as an anti-glycation factor, and to maintain and/or improve the condition of the skin by delaying the changes that cause collagen to become rigid with age and other detrimental factors discussed above.
• the composition may further include an octinoxate component and/or a butyl methoxydibenzyoylmethane component.
• this composition includes soybean protein (Glycine Soja) in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 3%, hydrolyzed rice protein in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 3%, sunflower seed extract in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 3%.
• soybean protein Glycine Soja
• hydrolyzed rice protein in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 3%
• sunflower seed extract in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 3%.
• a further particular embodiment of the present invention is a composition that includes a centella asiatica component, such as centella asiatica extract.
• the centella asiatica component has been found to promote collagen and elastin synthesis, thereby maintaining or improving the firmness, elasticity, and general strength of the skin.
• the primary active constituents are saponins (triterpenords), that include asiaticoside, madecassoside, and madasiatic acid.
• a com kerne! component such as a corn kernel extract, and more particularly myo-inositol, may be included in this embodiment, and it provides several benefits that include assistance in production and storage of energy in the cell, inhibition of lipid peroxidation, and it is generally a powerful antioxidant.
• Components of corn kernel extract that may separately or in combination be included in a composition, include nitrogenous elements, carbohydrates, B vitamins, trace elements, and/or myo-inositol in the form of phylate.
• a seaweed component such as a seaweed extract (e.g., laminaria digitata extract), may be further included in this embodiment and, when included, it assists in increasing intercellular ATP rate and increasing oxygenation of cells and tissues, thereby generally increasing the structure of skin.
• a ubiquinone (coenzyme Q) component may be included and it acts as a coenzyme for various important enzymatic pathways particularly in the production of energy in cells, and optionally with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
• this composition includes Centelia
• a further particular embodiment of the present invention is a composition that generally provides a hydrolipid matrix to the skin.
• This composition will generally include a rosemary component, such as a rosemary extract, and preferably rosmarinic acid, phenolic diterpenes, carnosol, carnosic acid, and/or ursolic acid, or simply is ursolic acid.
• the rosemary extract will preferably be an extract obtained form the ieaf of a rosemary.
• the rosemary component will preferably be encapsulated in a liposome to enhance delivery.
• Additional components will generally include one or more of a iecithin component, a ceramide 3 component, a phospholipid such as a beta sitosterol component, a glycerin component, a panthenol component, a proline component, such as L-proline, and a hyaluronate component, such as sodium hyaluronate,
• Subcombinations of components of the above composition will preferably include a rosemary component, such as a rosemary extract, and preferably an extract of rosemary leaf, and a lecithin component. This subcombination aids in lipid retention and in forming a moisture layer barrier in and on the skin.
• a further subcombination of the above composition preferably includes a lecithin component, a ceramide 3 component, and a beta sitosterol component, or preferably includes a ceramide 3 component and a beta sitosterol component.
• This subcombination of the above components also aids in lipid retention and in forming a moisture layer barrier in and on the skin.
• this composition includes rosemary extract in an amount of from about 0.0001% to about 1%, a lipid complex that includes ceramide 3 in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 0.1% and a beta- sistosterol in an amount of from about 0.0001% to about 0.1%, glycerin in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, panthenol in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 1%, proline in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 1%, and sodium hyaluronate in an amount of from about 0.001% to about 5%.
• each of the foregoing compositions and subcombinations may be used atone, or may be used in combination with additional components to form a further new formulation.
• the present invention thus further includes compositions containing a combination of one or more of each of the foregoing composition components in further combination with additional components discussed below.
• compositions of the present invention may also include a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.
• Components of the compositions may be encapsulated, such as in liposomal capsules.
• the complex forms from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight of the total composition, preferably from about 1 % to about 7% by weight of the total composition.
• the anti-superoxtde component may include those materials having a nti-su peroxide activity and, in particular, those having superoxide dismutase activity. In other words, it includes those components that can catalyze a dismutation reaction.
• SOD superoxide dismutase
• SODs modified by grafting polyalkylene oxide, polyethylene glycol, polysaccharide or acylated groups, salts of SOD, substances containing such SOD products, porphorins and materials with superoxide dismutase-like activity.
• SOD superoxide dismutase
• All the superoxide dismustases described above, as well as the variants and equivalents that a person of skill in the art can deduce from the literature may be suitable as SODs for use in the present invention. In addition, they can be of differing origins.
• SODs may have application in the present invention are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,526,507, the contents of which is incorporated herein by reference.
• the SOD may form from about 0.0001% to about 5%, 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the complex. More, preferably, the SOD may be included in the complex in an amount from about 0.1% to about 2% by weight.
• the anti-hydrogen peroxide component may be a thiol or thiol derivative.
• thiol is to be understood to be an organic compound characterized by the -SH group.
• Thiol derivatives are organic compounds that are either derivatives that retain the -SH group or are thio ethers or thio esters, in which case the -SH group is converted into the -SR group.
• Compounds that are to be understood as being identical to the thiols or thiol derivatives according to the invention are those that are formed by tautomerism, di- or oiigomerization by hydrogen bonding, hydration or other spontaneous rearrangement from the thiols or thiol derivatives. If a derivative is in equilibrium with an isomer by a different type of rearrangement, for example, migration of an alkyl group, this isomer is regarded as being included in the thiols and thiol derivatives of the invention.
• Suitable thiol and thiol derivatives may include captopril, cysteamine, ergothioneine, mercaptopropionylglycine, penicillamine, N-acetylcysteine, S- acetylcysteine, N,S-diacetylcysteine, N.S-diacetylcysteinamide, cysteine ethyl ester, N- acetylcrysteine ethyl ester, S-acetylcysteine ethyl ester, N,S-diacetylcysteine ethyl ester, thioglycoHc acid, cysteine, homocysteine, glutathione, thioglycerol, thiomalic acid,
• 2-mercaptopropionic acid 3-mercaptopropionic acid, thiodiglycol, 2-mercaptoethanol, dithioreitol, thioxanthene, thiosalicylic acid, thiolactic acid, thiopropionic acid, thiodiglycolic acid, tipoic acid, and cosmetically acceptable salts thereof.
• the cosmetically acceptable salts include, but are not limited to alkali metal salts, e.g., sodium, lithium, potassium, and rubidium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, e.g., magnesium, calcium, and strontium salts; non-toxic heavy metal salts, e.g., aluminum and zinc salts; boron salts; silicon salts; ammonium salts; trialkylammonium salts, e.g., trimethyiammonium and triethyiammonium, and tetraalkylonium salts.
• alkali metal salts e.g., sodium, lithium, potassium, and rubidium salts
• alkaline earth metal salts e.g., magnesium, calcium, and strontium salts
• non-toxic heavy metal salts e.g., aluminum and zinc salts
• boron salts e.g., silicon salts
• ammonium salts e.g., trimethyiammonium and
• the anti-hydrogen peroxide component may be incorporated into the complex in an amount from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight of the complex.
• anti-hydroxyl radical components can include one or more of the following: tocopherol, tocopherol derivatives, tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, grape seed extract (e.g., vitis vi ⁇ ifera (grape) seed extract), grape fruit extract (e.g., citrus grandis (grapefruit) fruit extract), green tea extract (e.g., camellia sinensis (leaf) extract), turmeric acid, curcuminoids, tetrahydrocurcuminoids catechins, epigallocatechin 3-0- gallate and polyphenols, oligomeric proanthocyanidins, bioflavonoids, flavonoids, and mixtures thereof.
• grape seed extract e.g., vitis vi ⁇ ifera (grape) seed extract
• grape fruit extract e.g., citrus grandis (grapefruit) fruit extract
• green tea extract e.g., camellia sinensis (leaf) extract
• turmeric acid e.g., cam
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E) and its derivatives such as esters of tocopherol are useful in the composition of the present invention.
• Suitable tocopherols include the monomethyl, dimethyl, or triethyl derivatives of tocol, including but not limited to, alpha tocopherol, beta tocopherol, gamma tocopherol, delta tocopherol, epsilon tocopherol, zeta tocopherol, and eta tocopherol.
• Suitable esters of tocopherol include but are not limited to tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl succinate, tocopheryl benzoate, tocopheryl propionate, tocopheryl sorbate, tocopheryl oleate, tocopheryl orotate, tocopheryl linoleate, tocopheryl nicotinate, and the 2-ethyl-hexanoate ester.
• tocopherol and/or its derivatives are included in the complex of the present invention, they are used at level from about 0.01% to about 98%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and from 0.01% to about 2%.
• Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane and/or turmeric extract may also be incorporated into the complex at levels from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the complex, preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight.
• grape seed extract and complexes of grape seed extract with phospholipids may also be beneficial for use in the present invention.
• the extracts from grape seed include a mixture polyphenols such as epicatechin, proanthocyanidins, and catechins.
• a suitable complex of grape seed extract and phospholipid is described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,963,527, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
• the grape seed extract or its complex with phospholipids is present in an amount from about 0.001% to about 5% by weight of the complex, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5% by weight.
• Green tea extract may be included in the same amounts as the grape seed extract.
• Flavonoids and bioflavonoids may also be useful in the present invention. It has been reported in Bravo, Polyphenols: Chemistry, Dietary Sources, Metabolism, and Nutritional Significance, Nutrition Reviews, Vol. 56, No. 11 , 317-33 (November, 1998), the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, that flavonoids may be subdivided into 13 classes shown below:
• Flavonoids have, in general, the common structure of diphenytpropanes (C6-C3-C6) and consist of two aromatic rings linked through three carbons that usually form an oxygenated heterocyc ⁇ e.
• the basic structure is shown below:
• Flavonoids occasionally occur in plants as aglycones, although they are most commonly found as glycoside derivatives.
• the flavonoids may be derived from any suitable source. A preferred source is from citrus.
• flavonoids When flavonoids are incorporated into the complex, they are present at a level from about 0.001% to about 20% by weight of the complex, preferably from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight
• palmitoyl hydroxypropyltrimonium amylopectin can be mixed with camellia sinensis extract. This may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.001% to about 2% by weight of the complex.
• the chain breaker may include the same components as those described above for the anti-hydroxyl radical component.
• one or more of the above anti-hydroxyl radical components may also serve as a chain breaker component.
• Chain breaking antioxidants are those components that can break the chain reaction once lipid peroxidation is initiated.
• the complex composition may also include components selected to repair the damage caused by the ROS.
• the compositions of the present invention includes at least one component that provides cellular energy production, at least one component that aids collagen synthesis, and/or at least one component that aids or provides cellular activity. These components may be used singly or, desirably, in combination.
• a desirable cellular energy production component includes the ubiquinones.
• Ubiquinones are widely found in bacteria, fungi, yeasts, plants, and animals. It is known that different species produce isoforms (Q-n) with different numbers of isoprene units (n). For example, the number of isoprene units is 6 (Q6) in some microorganisms, nine (Q9) in plants, and ten (Q10) in humans.
• Coenzyme Q10 or 2,3,-dimethoxy-5-methyl ⁇ 6-decaprenyl-be ⁇ zoquinone functions to recover and maintain respiration and promotes ATP production in terms of energy supply for cellular activities. Derivatives of the ubiquinones such as ubiquinols may also be useful [0060]
• the cellular energy production component for example, coenzyme
• Q10 is incorporated into the complex in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the complex.
• hydroxy acids including alpha and beta hydoxy acids may be useful in this regard.
• the present invention contemplates including one or more alpha or beta hydroxy acids. Suitable examples include lactic, malic, glycolic, citric, and salicylic acid.
• ascorbic acid Vitamin C
• its derivatives promote collagen synthesis.
• the ascorbic acid derivative useful in the present invention includes all enantiomers whether singly or in combination.
• the ascorbic acid is provided in the levo form.
• the ascorbic acid or its derivatives may be in a water soluble or an oil soluble form.
• Non-exclusive examples of the vitamin C (ascorbic acid) derivatives are, for instance, the alkyl esters of L-ascorbic acid where the alkyl portion has from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. With respect to the esters, they may be selected from the group consisting of fatty acid mono-, di- r tri- or tetra-esters of ascorbic acid.
• esters include, but are not limited to ascorbyl paimitate, ascorbyl laureate, ascorbyl myristate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl dilaurate, ascorbyl dimyri ⁇ tate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl tripalmitate, ascorbyl trilaurate, ascorbyl trimyristate, ascorbyf tristearate, ascorbyl tetrapalmitate (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate), ascorbyl tetralaurate, ascorbyl tetramyristate, ascorbyl tetrastearateL-ascorbyl paimitate,
• the salts may be selected from the phosphates and sulfates, preferably phosphate.
• the ascorbic acid phosphate is generally selected from L-ascorbic acid 3-phosphate, L-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate, L-ascorbic acid 3- pyrophosphate and bis (L-ascorbic acid 3,3-) phosphate.
• the ascorbic acid phosphate is magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate; more preferably, magnesium ascorbyi phosphate.
• the ascorbic acid sulfate is generally selected from L- ascorbic acid 3-sulfate, L-ascorbic acid 2-sulfate, L-ascorbic acid 3-pyrosulfate and bis
• the collagen synthesis component for example, the ascorbic acid and its derivatives, is incorporated in the complex in an amount ranging from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the complex.
• retinoids may affect cellular activity and thus it is desirable to incorporate retinoids in the complex of the present invention.
• the retinoids include retinol, retinal (Vitamin A aldehyde), and retiny! esters such as retinyl acetate, retinyl butyrate, retinyl propionate, retinyl octanoate, retinyl laurate, retinyi palmitate, retinyl oleate, and retinyl linoleate.
• Retinoids tend to irritate the skin and therefore, it is desirable to incorporate them in the complex at levels so as to minimize the potential irritation.
• irritancy mitiga ⁇ ts may be incorporated into the compositions to assist in preventing undue discomfort to the user while potentially permitting the dosage level of retinoid to be increased.
• irritancy mitigants include, but are not limited to ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, phospholipids, panthenol, oat extract, allantoin, ginkgo biloba, licorice extract, calendula, ginseng, butchers broom, and the like.
• the cellular activity component for example, the retinoid, is incorporated in the complex at a level ranging from about 0.001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the complex.
• the complex compositions according to the present invention are generally mixed with a pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable vehicle or carrier.
• the complex compositions of the present invention may be formulated as a solution, gel, lotion, cream, ointment, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, or other pharmaceutically or cosmetically acceptable form.
• the complex compositions of the present invention may also contain various known and conventional cosmetic components so long as they do not detrimentally affect the desired effects.
• the pharmaceutically acceptable or cosmetically acceptable vehicle acts as a dilutant, dispersant, or carrier for other materials present in the complex composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the complex composition is applied to the skin.
• Vehicles other than water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners, and powders.
• the following vehicles can be used alone or as a combination of one or more vehicles.
• Vehicles may also include propellants such as propane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide; and solvents such as ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, or powders such as chalk, talc, fullers earth, kaolin, starch, gums, colbdial silica, sodium polyacrylate, tetra alkyi and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminum silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxy methyl cellulose, ethylene glycol monostearate.
• propellants such as propane, isobutane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide
• solvents such as ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone
• Emollients such as stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rapeseed oil, saffiower seed oil, evening primrose
• emollients refer to materials used for the prevention or relief of dryness, as well as for the protection of the skin.
• suitable emollients are known and may be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and
• composition can optionally comprise sunscreens such as inorganic and organic sunscreens to provide protection from the harmful effects of excessive exposure to sunlight during use of the complex composition of the present invention.
• sunscreens such as inorganic and organic sunscreens to provide protection from the harmful effects of excessive exposure to sunlight during use of the complex composition of the present invention.
• suitable sunscreens include those described in the U.S. OTC
• Sunscreen Monograph such as octinoxate, and butyl methoxy dibenzoyimethane, the contents of which is incorporated herein by reference.
• composition of the invention can accordingly comprise from 0.1 to
• the composition optionally can also comprise as a sunscreen titanium dioxide or zinc oxide having an average particle size of from 1 to 300 nm, iron oxide having an average particle size of from 1 to 300 nm, silica, such as fumed silica having an average particle size of from 1 to 100 nm. !t should be noted that silica, when used as an component in the emulsion according to the invention can provide protection from infrared radiation.
• Ultrafine titanium dioxide in either of two forms namely water- dispersible titanium dioxide and oil-di ⁇ persible titanium dioxide may be used.
• Water- dispersible titanium dioxide is ultrafine titanium dioxide, the particles of which are u ⁇ coated or which are coated with a material to impart a hydrophilic surface property to the particles. Examples of such materials include aluminum oxide and aluminum silicate.
• Oil-dispersible titanium dioxide is uitrafine titanium dioxide, the particles of which exhibit a hydrophobic surface property, and which, for this purpose, can be coated with metal soaps such as aluminum stearate, aluminum Ia urate, or zinc stearate, or with orga ⁇ osilicpne compounds.
• titanium dioxide particles of titanium dioxide having an average particle size of less than 100 nm, preferably from 10 to 40 nm and most preferably from 15 to 25 nm.
• the total amount of titanium dioxide that can optionally be incorporated in the composition according to the invention is from 1 to 25%, preferably from 2 to 10% and ideally from 3 to 7% by weight of the composition.
• a particularly convenient form of the composition is an emulsion, in which case an oil or oily material (emollient) will normally be present, together with an emulsifier to provide either a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water emulsion.
• the composition can also comprise water, usually up to 95%, preferably from 5 to 95% by weight.
• the composition can also optionally comprise a high molecular weight silicone surfactant that can also act as an emulsifier, in place of or in addition to the optional emulsifier(s) already mentioned.
• the silicone surfactant may be a high molecular weight polymer of dimethyl poiysifoxane with polyoxethylene and/or polyoxpropylene side chains having a molecular weight of from 10,000 to 50,000.
• the dimethyl poiysiloxane polymer is conveniently provided as a dispersion in a volatile siloxane, the dispersion comprising, for example, from 1 to 20% by volume of the polymer and from 80 to 99% by volume of the volatile siloxane.
• the dispersion consists of a 10% by volume of the polymer dispersed in the volatile siloxane.
• Examples of the volatile siloxanes in which the polysiloxane polymer can be dispersed include polydimethyl siloxane (pentamer ahd/or hexamer).
• a preferred silicone surfactant is cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, such as DC 3225C Formulation Aid available from DOW CORNING.
• Another is laurylmethicone copofyol, such as DC Q2-5200, also available from Dow Corning.
• the amount of silicone surfactant, when present in the composition will normally be up to 25%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight of the emulsion.
• adjuncts examples include preservatives, such as para-hydroxy benzoate esters; antioxidants, such butyl hydroxy toluene; humectants, such as glycerol, ethoxylated glycerins such as glycereth-
• anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritant agents may also be desirable to incorporate anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritant agents.
• the natural anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritant agents are preferred.
• Skin conditioning agents that may be included, as mentioned above, are hyaluronic acid, its derivatives and salts including sodium hyaluronate, plant extracts such as kola nut, guara ⁇ a mate, algae extract, proline, L-proline, and skin benefit agents such as ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides, sphingolipids such as sphingomyelins, cerebrosides, sulphatides, and ganglioside, sphingosines, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosines, phospholipids, either separately or in mixtures. Fatty acids may also be combined with these skin benefit agents.
• compositions according to the present invention may be prepared in accordance with conventional procedures that are known in the art.
• components of the present invention may be combined by sequential addition, with or without preference to order, followed by mixing to form a mixture.
• compositions may be prepared by admixing, such as in a one-pot system.
• the compositions of the present invention may be administered to an individual, preferably by topical application to the skin of the individual.
• the compositions may be applied in an amount effective to inhibit free radicals, reactive oxygen species, and other oxidizing species.
• compositions of the present invention may be applied to the skin in an amount of about 1 mg/cm 2 to about 3 mg/cm 2 of skin.
• the compositions of the present invention will be applied in an amount of about 2 mg/cm 2 per square inch of skin.
• the composition should be applied twice a day, such as in the morning and in the evening.
• compositions preferably include components for enhancing the transportation of the active components into the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin.
• Such components include dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) or n-decylmethyl sulfoxide (NDMS).
• Samples were diluted in media. RON SBD 101, Centelfa asiatica, and vitamin C were prepared at 0.001, 0,01, and 0.1% concentrations. The remaining samples were prepared at 0.1, 1, and 10% concentrations. Centella asiatica was prepared as an extract in DMSO:ethano!:water at 50:30:20. Human dermal fibroblasts (Hs-27) were plated in 24 well plates and were incubated overnight. The following day, the cells were treated with the samples at the concentrations previously indicated. Supernatant fluids were collected and tested for the presence of procollagen using a commercially available ELISA kit and elastin using the Fastin Elastin kit.
• the levels of collagen produced by the ceils are shown in figure 3. Collagen synthesis is expressed as a ratio of the amount of procollagen detected divided by viability to allow for any toxic effects of the samples.
• the data demonstrate that the Centella asiatica sample was most potent at inducing new collagen synthesis at a concentration of 0.1%.
• the Biopepttde CL and Biopeptide EL samples also induced a detectable increase in cotlagen synthesis at a concentration of 10%. The other samples had no detectable effect on procollagen synthesis.
• the data in figure 4 show the effect of the samples on elastin secretion.
• the data are again expressed as the ratio of the amount of elastin secreted divided by the viability of the celts at the time of supernatant collection.
• the Centella asiatica sample was the most potent inducer of elastin.
• Biopeptide CL and Biopeptide EL also induced detectable increases in elastin secretion.
• the Odraline and Biodynes EMPP samples induced slight increases in elastin at the highest concentration used (10%).
• Centella asiatica is a potent inducer of both collagen and elastin. Additionally, the results suggest that the Biopeptide CL & EL samples induced both collagen and elastin although a high concentration of these materials is needed in order to induced the observed biological effect.
• MMPs matrix metalloproteinases
• MMP matrix metalloproteinases
• such a skin care product should not inhibit MMP-9 as this would potentially inhibit synthesis of new collagen synthesis by blocking availability of collagen building blocks.
• eiastase should be inhibited as to prevent digestion of elastin and the resulting elasticity of the skin.
• the data in Table I below gives information regarding the source and solubility for each of the samples tested.
• the data in Figure 5 demonstrate the effect of the samples on MMP-1 activity. Elhibin was the only sample that inhibited MMP-1.
• the data in Figure 6 demonstrate that most of the samples did not inhibit MMP-9.
• the only sample with strong inhibitory activity for MMP-9 was BVOSC ester.
• the data in Figure 7 demonstrate that a number of the samples inhibited elastase. These samples were Collalift, Alphinia leaf, Efhibin, Sophorine, ACTfMP 1.3.9, Lemon and mixed citrus extracts, Kelpadelpie, Extracellium, and Colhibin.
• kits were used for testing the effect of the samples on the activity of the MMPs of interest.
• MMP-1 a kit from Amersham was used according to the manufacturer's specifications.
• MMP-9 and Elastase kits from Molecular Probes were used.
• the samples were prepared in the solvent noted in table I at stock concentrations of 100 mg/mL
• the samples were diluted to 100 mg/ml using PBS.
• EXAMPLE 3 Cells in skin can produce nitric oxide (NO) when exposed to UV light, and NO thus produced has the potential to induce age associated changes in skin
• NO nitric oxide
• This study was performed in order to screen a panel of cosmetics and skin care raw materials for their effect on NO production by RAW 264.7 cells.
• the murine macrophage cell line RAW 264.7 was used in the study as it has been shown to produce NO when stimulated with LPS.
• Murine RAW 264.7 cells were seeded in a 96 well plate at 1 X 10 5 cells /well. The plate was incubated overnight The following day, the cells were treated' with the samples at 0.001, 0.01 , and 0.1% for 2 hours. The samples are listed below in Table II. Following the exposure period, LPS was added to the wells at 100 ng/ml. The plate was incubated overnight. Equal volumes of culture supernatant and Griess reagent were incubated for 15 min at room temperature and the absorbance at 540 nm was read. The amount of nitrite in the samples was calculated from a standard curve generated with sodium nitrite.
• Table III NO production by RAW 264.7 cells stimulated with LPS. Data are shown as ng nitrite/ml supernatant.
• Hyaluronic acid is a member of the glycosaminoglycan family of compounds. Glycosaminoglycans make up the ground substance of connective tissue, and along with elastin, help provide elasticity to skin. They also hold water and therefore provide viscosity and hydrating properties.
• Centella asiatica and vitamin C were prepared at 0.001%.
• Biodynes EMPP was prepared at 0.1%.
• Centella asiatica was prepared as an extract in DMSO :ethanol: water at 50:30:20.
• the "energy booster" samples Seanergilium algae extract, Throtaine, Sepitonic, and Phytovityl corn kernel extract, were all prepared in media at 0.01, 0.1, and 1.0%.
• Human dermal fibroblasts (Hs-27) were plated in 24 well plates and were incubated overnight. The cells were treated with the samples at the concentrations indicated for 2 consecutive days.
• Tabte IV Effect of samples on procollagen secretion. Data are expressed as ng/ml procollagen/ml supernatant calculated from a standard curve generated with the procollagen standard provided with the ELlSA kit.
• Table V Effect of samples on elastin secretion. Data are expressed as the % media control elastin calculated by dividing the amount of elastin in detected in the tissue culture supernatants from treated cells by the amount of elastin secreted by untreated control cells.
• Table IV shows the effect of samples on hyaluronic acid secretion. Data are expressed as ng hyaluronic acid/ml culture supernatant. The amount of hyaluronic acid in each supernatant was calculated from a standard curve generated using a hyaluronic acid standard supplied with the ELISA kit.
• the Sepitonic or Phytovityl materials may be valuable for skin applications where an increase in hyaluronic acid, and subsequently increased hydration, is desired.
• Dryness can be an irritating problem with skin, and it results from loss of water from the skin.
• the ability to retain water is associated with lipid content of the skin, especially in the stratum comeum.
• the lipid content in keratinocytes the primary cell type found in the stratum comeum, could be raised, water loss might be prevented and thus alleviate dry skin.
• two lipid-containing samples were tested for their ability to augment the lipid levels of cultured keratinocytes.
• the data from a representative experiment shown in figure 9 demonstrate that exposure of the cells to both samples resulted in increased lipid staining. Uriisomes seemed to have a greater effect on lipid levels than did Merospheres V. However, this could simply be due to a difference in lipid content of the two samples. Alternatively, the difference could result from better uptake of the lipids in the Urlisome sample compared to the Mere-sphere V sample.
• Human HEK001 cells were plated at 2 X 10 4 /we!i in 96 well plates and were incubated overnight. The following day, the cells were exposed to the samples that had been diluted into cell culture media at 0.005%, 0.05%, and 0.5%. The cells were then again incubated overnight. The following day, the cells were fixed in 1% formaldehyde. Cellular lipids were then stained with Oi! Red O stain (1). Following staining, the lipid bound stain was extracted with isopropanol. The OD of the extracted stain was read at 515 nm.
• Phenoxyethanol &) Methylparaben (& ⁇ Ethylparaben ⁇ &) Propylparaben (&) Butylparaben (&) lsobutylparaben
• composition that can be prepared according to a further embodiment of the present invention.
• composition provides a defense against ROS and also includes components to help repair damage caused ROS.
• composition provides a defense against ROS and also includes components to help repair damage caused ROS.
• UV radiation and the skin erythema was measured.
• FIGS, 1 and 2 show the results.

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