WO2007138235A2

WO2007138235A2 - Cosmetic use of a zostera marina extract

Info

Publication number: WO2007138235A2
Application number: PCT/FR2007/051367
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jean Paufique
Original assignee: Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique, Dite Silab
Priority date: 2006-06-01
Filing date: 2007-06-01
Publication date: 2007-12-06
Also published as: EP2020986A2; FR2901700B1; WO2007138235A3; FR2901700A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of at least one extract of Zostera marina as active ingredient for an application for treatment of the skin. The invention further relates to cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical compositions containing a Zostera marina extract.

Description

COSMETIC USE OF A ZOSTERA MARINA EXTRACT

The present invention relates to the use of a Zostera marina extract as an active ingredient for a cosmetic application.

The invention also relates to any cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical composition containing an extract of Zostera marina. Zostera marina is a seagrass belonging to the family Zosteraceae, of the order Helobiae. It is a submerged or partially floating plant, with dark green, flattened, ribbed leaves and pale green to white rhizomes.

The use of this marine herb in the cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical field has never been considered.

Indeed Zostera marina is able to produce a pectic derivative rich in apiose.

Apiose or 3-C- (hydroxymethyl) -D-glycero-tetrose is a rare monosaccharide and is not commercially available. Surprisingly, thanks to this richness of apiogalacturonans, Zostera marina has remarkable properties in the skin and skin appendages.

The skin is a complex organ that covers the entire surface of the body and has many vital functions. It is organized in three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.

The skin is constantly subjected to both external and internal aggression, which can threaten its balance and appearance. This is why we search for active ingredients able to protect the skin against these attacks that could affect its proper functioning and appearance, and fight against the resulting manifestations.

To address this problem, the present invention aims to use at least one extract of Zostera marina as active ingredient in a composition for the treatment of the skin.

The Zostera marina extract that may be used according to the invention may be a chemical hydrolyzate or an enzymatic hydrolyzate.

The Zostera marina extract that can be used according to the invention can be obtained by hydroglycolic extraction or by a process comprising one or more successive or simultaneous enzymatic hydrolysis (s).

According to one variant, the extract may also be obtained by polymerization of the native molecules of Zostera marina or by fermentation with microbial cells. According to another variant, the extract may be chemically modified by grafting compounds such as, for example, monosaccharides, osides, lipids or the like.

The extract of Zostera marina according to the invention is rich in apiogalacturonans. It is characterized by:

a solids content of between 10 and 250 g / l, a pH of between 5 and 9,

a total sugar content of between 4 and 110 g / l, and

a content of apiogalacturonans of between approximately 5 and 40 mol% of the identified monosaccharides.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 50% of an extract of Zostera marina.

The administration of a composition containing a Zostera marina extract according to the invention is preferably carried out topically. The composition may be in any form allowing topical application.

The use of an active ingredient derived from Zostera marina according to the invention makes it possible to protect the skin and to fight against all manifestations that disturb its activity and appearance.

In particular, the use of an active ingredient derived from Zostera marina according to the present invention makes it possible to combat cutaneous aging, in particular to prevent and reduce wrinkles, to restructure the skin, to moisturize and to protect the stratum corneum, to whiten the skin, fight against free radicals and promote thinning.

The present invention is now described in detail based on non-limiting examples of active principles and compositions. 1. EXAMPLES E> E PREPARATION OF EXTRACTS E> E ZOSTERA MARINA

1.1 Process for preparing an extract A The process for preparing extract A comprises the following steps:

solubilization of Zostera marina powder in a hydroglycolic medium which may contain from 0.1 to 50% of butylene glycol solvent,

separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and sterilizing filtration.

1.2 Process for preparing an extract B

The process for preparing extract B comprises the following steps:

solubilization of Zostera marina powder in an aqueous medium,

- Successive and / or simultaneous enzymatic hydrolysis (s), - Separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,

- heat treatment to neutralize the enzymatic activity (s), and

sterilizing f iltration. 1.3 Process for the preparation of an extract C

The process for preparing extract C comprises the following steps:

solubilization of Zostera marina powder in a hydroglycolic medium which may contain from 0.1 to 50% of butylene glycol type solvent,

separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,

filtration and concentration of the fraction containing the apiogalacturonans, and

- sterilizing filtration. 1.4 Process for preparing an extract D

The process for preparing extract D comprises the following steps:

solubilization of Zostera marina powder in an aqueous medium,

- Successive and / or simultaneous enzymatic hydrolysis (s),

separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, heat treatment to neutralize the enzymatic activity (s),

- sterilizing filtration. 2. EXAMPLES E> E COMPOSITIONS

The present invention also covers cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical compositions including a Zostera marina extract according to the present invention in different galenic forms, adapted for topical administration. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders. They can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a mousse, or in solid form.

These compositions contain between 0.01 and 50% by weight of the Zostera marina extract according to the present invention. The following examples of compositions are obtained by mixing the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.

2.1 Example of anti-wrinkle composition The formulation is the following: - stearic acid: 7.0%

- Myristate isopropyl: 7.0%

- Stearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth 20: 3.0%

- Stearyl stearate: 1.0%

- Ore oil / dibutyl lauryl glutamide: 1.0% - Phenoxyethanol / parabens: 0.7%

- Triethanolamine: 0.3%

- Extract from Zostera marina: 5.0%

- Water: 75%

2.2 Example of moisturizing composition The formulation is as follows:

- Cetearyl octonoate: 5.0%

- Isopropyl palmitate: 5.0%

- Polyacrilamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth7: 2.0% - Montanox 60: 1.7%

- Sorbitan sesquioleate: 1.3%

- Phenonip: 0.7%

- Zostera marina extract: 8.0% - Water: 76.3%

2.3 Example of restructuring composition The formulation is as follows:

- Isohexadecane: 5.0% - Arachidyl alcohol / Behenyl Alcohol /

Arachidyl glucoside: 3.0%

- Butylene glycol: 3.0%

- Isopropyl palmitate: 2.0%

- Polyacrilamide / C-13-C14 paraffin / Iaureth7: 1.5%

- cetearyl alcohol: 1.0%

- PEG-100 stearate: 1.0%

- Glyceryl stearate: 1.0%

- Phenonip: 0.7% - Dimethicone / Cyclomethicone 0.5%

- Zostera marina extract: 20.0%

- Water: 61.3%

2.4 Example of a Spray Composition The formulation is as follows:

- Arachidyl alcohol / Behenyl alcohol /

Arachidyl glucoside: 3.0%

- Isononyl isononanoate: 2.0%

Cetearyl octanoate: 10.0%

- Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaff in

/ Laureth-7: 2.0%

- Phenonip: 0.5%

- Zostera marina extract: 4.0%

- Water: 78.5 ° / 3 / STRUCTURAL ANALYSIS E> THE ZOSTERA MARINA EXTRACT 3.1 Chemical Composition of the Zostera Marina Extract - Uronic Acids: 41.4%

- Carbohydrates 33.4%

- Mineral ash: 25,2%

3.2 Characterization of carbohydrates a / Molecular weight of carbohydrates

The analysis is performed by HPLC (High Performance Liquid Chromatography) with a refractive index detector. The breakdown is as follows:

b / Composition of carbohydrates

In order to determine the composition of carbohydrate monomers present in the extract of Zostera marina, it performs a hydrolysis on the extracts of Zostera marina.

The analysis is carried out by gas chromatography with a flame ionization detector.

The results grouped in the following table show the presence of a major fraction of apiogalacturonans.

4 / CHARACTERIZATION E) E STRUCTURE E) ES APIOSALACTURONANES A particular extract of Zostera Marina is prepared which is purified by ethanol precipitation of an extract of Zostera marina so as to precipitate molecules of high molecular weight such as polysaccharides. The precipitate represents 60% of the native extract.

The product thus purified is hydrolysed by auto-hydrolysis and the various compounds are separated by ion exchange chromatography so as to obtain two fractions, one neutral and the other charged.

The neutral fraction is treated by steric exclusion and the nuclear magnetic resonance analysis shows on one side of the apiosis in its monomeric monosaccharide form and on the other chains containing apiose residues.

The charged fraction is analyzed by gas chromatography with a flame ionization detector and this analysis shows the presence of 92% of galacturonic acid. These results confirm the presence of galacturonic acid chains.

According to the present invention, it is found that the carbohydrate fraction of the extracts of Zostera marina is mainly composed of apiogalacturonans. This polysaccharide structure is a linear chain of galacturonic acid with short chains composed of free form apiosis and small oligosaccharides.

Claims

Use of at least one Zostera marina extract obtained by a process comprising one or more successive or simultaneous enzymatic hydrolysis (s) as an active ingredient rich in apiogalacturonans for application to treatment skin.

2. Use of at least one extract of Zostera marina according to claim 1, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to prevent and / or treat cutaneous aging, in particular to prevent and / or fight against the appearance of wrinkles and restructure the stratum corneum.

3. Use of at least one extract of Zostera marina according to claim 1, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for moisturizing and protecting the stratum corneum of the skin.

4. Use of at least one extract of Zostera marina according to claim 1, for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for depigmentation and lightening of the skin.

5. Use of at least one extract of Zostera marina according to claim 1 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for an anti-radical activity.

6. Use of at least one extract of Zostera marina according to claim 1 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for a slimming activity.

Cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical composition adapted for use according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains as active principle between 0.01% and 50% of at least one extract of Zostera marina.

8. Cosmetic composition and / or dermo-phαrmαceutique according to claim 7, characterized in that it is obtained from one or more enzymatic hydrolysis (s) successive or simultaneous.

9. Cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 7, characterized in that it is obtained by hydroglycolic extraction.

10. Cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical composition according to claim 8 to 9, characterized in that the extract of Zostera marina has the following characteristics: a solids content of between 10 g / l and 250 g / l,

a pH of between 5 and 9,

a total sugar content of between 4 g / l and 110 g / l, and

11. Cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical composition according to one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of cream, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsion, solution, suspension or powder.