WO2008125771A2 - Cosmetic use of a debaryomyces hansenii extract - Google Patents

Cosmetic use of a debaryomyces hansenii extract Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008125771A2
WO2008125771A2 PCT/FR2008/050368 FR2008050368W WO2008125771A2 WO 2008125771 A2 WO2008125771 A2 WO 2008125771A2 FR 2008050368 W FR2008050368 W FR 2008050368W WO 2008125771 A2 WO2008125771 A2 WO 2008125771A2
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Prior art keywords
debaryomyces hansenii
extract
cosmetic composition
composition
skin
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PCT/FR2008/050368
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French (fr)
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WO2008125771A3 (en
Inventor
Jean Paufique
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Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique, Dite Silab
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Publication of WO2008125771A2 publication Critical patent/WO2008125771A2/en
Publication of WO2008125771A3 publication Critical patent/WO2008125771A3/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as an active ingredient for an application to the treatment of the skin.
  • the invention also relates to extracts of Debaryomyces hansenii and to cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii.
  • Debaryomyces hansenii described for the first time in 1978 by Meyer and Yarrow, is a marine yeast of the genus Torulopsis, belonging to the Ascomycetes class. It is cryotolerant, alkane-assimilating, round to elongated and reproduces by multilateral budding. Debaryomyces hansenii is used in food, especially for making cheese. It has proteolytic and lipolytic activities useful for the maturation of cheese. It is used in particular for crusting as a refining agent, promotes the implantation of other microorganisms and plays a protective role against contaminants, in particular Mucor.
  • the skin is a complex organ that covers the entire surface of the body and has many vital functions. It is organized in three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.
  • the present invention aims to use at least one extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as active ingredient for the preparation of a composition for the treatment of the skin.
  • the invention also relates to particular Debaryomyces hansenii extracts, useful as active ingredients for the preparation of compositions intended for the treatment of the skin, as well as cosmetic compositions including at least one extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as active ingredient.
  • An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii adapted for use according to the invention is capable of being obtained by a process comprising at least one step of solubilizing Debaryomyces hansenii in an aqueous or hydroglycolic medium and an enzymatic inactivation step.
  • An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii that may be used according to the invention may be a chemical or enzymatic hydrolyzate.
  • the compositions according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 50% of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii.
  • the administration of a composition containing an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is preferably carried out topically.
  • the composition may be in any form allowing topical application.
  • an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii makes it possible to combat cutaneous aging, in particular to prevent and reduce wrinkles, to improve the biomechanical properties of the skin.
  • skin restructure the skin, moisturize and protect the stratum corneum, whiten the skin and increase cell renewal.
  • Skin aging results in skin that is thinner, smoother, dry and less elastic. Its most obvious expression is the appearance of wrinkles that correspond to changes in the structure and composition of the dermis.
  • an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is capable of stimulating the synthesis of collagen I constitutive of the extracellular matrix of the skin.
  • an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention as an active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of cutaneous aging, in particular intended to prevent and / or to fight against the appearance of wrinkles and / or to improve the cutaneous biomechanical properties.
  • the skin is colored by pigments, melanins, synthesized by specialized cells, melanocytes. The color of the skin varies depending on the type and amount of melanin synthesized.
  • tyrosinase is a key enzyme that catalyzes the hydroxylation of tyrosine to dihydroxyphanylalanine (DOPA), as well as the oxidation of this DOPA to DOPAquinone.
  • DOPA dihydroxyphanylalanine
  • An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is capable of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and thus of attenuating unsightly skin pigmentations.
  • An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is therefore also useful as an active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for depigmentation and lightening of the skin.
  • the Debaryomyces hansenii extracts according to the invention are capable of stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts, constitutive cells of the dermis.
  • an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention can be used as an active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to promote the cellular renewal of the skin.
  • the extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is obtainable by the implementation of a process comprising at least the following stages:
  • the second step makes it possible to inactivate the activity of the enzymes naturally present in the yeast, and possibly also to inactivate the activity of enzymes used in the process.
  • the method comprises at least the following steps:
  • the method comprises at least the following steps:
  • solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in aqueous or hydroglycolic media preferentially at the rate of 10 to 200 g / l, enzymatic hydrolysis (s) and / or chemical (s) successive or simultaneous,
  • the purpose of the hydrolysis step (s) is to promote the solubilization of the yeast. It may be carried out for example using several enzymes used in combination. The proportion by weight of the enzyme (s) (s) is then between 0.01 and 20g / l. This enzymatic hydrolysis step (s) may be followed by a heat treatment step to reduce the residual enzymatic activities.
  • the method may also comprise a deproteinization step, preferably by precipitation or selective adsorption, after the soluble and insoluble phase separation step.
  • a concentration of the active fraction can be achieved by filtration, ultrafiltration and / or reverse osmosis.
  • a sterilizing filtration and / or lyophilization and / or atomization step may also be introduced.
  • the process for preparing extract A comprises the following steps: solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in an aqueous medium,
  • the process for preparing extract B comprises the following steps:
  • the process for preparing extract C comprises the following steps:
  • the rate of solids is measured by passing in an oven at 105 ° C. of a sample of initial weight given until a constant weight is obtained.
  • the solids content is between 5 and 300 g / l.
  • the DUBOIS method (DUBOIS M. et al [1956], Analytical Chemistry, 28, No. 3, p 350-356) is used. In the presence of concentrated sulfuric acid and phenol, the reducing sugars give a yellow-orange compound.
  • the total sugar content of a sample can be determined.
  • the total sugar level of the extracts according to the present invention are from 0.1 to 100 g / l.
  • the protein content of the extracts is obtained by the LOWRY method.
  • the results give a protein content of 1 to 135 g / l. 3.6 / C ⁇ r ⁇ ctéris ⁇ tion of the protein fraction
  • the molar mass of the different molecular species present in the extracts is determined by FPLC (fast protein liquid chromatography).
  • the active ingredient according to the invention is essentially composed of a peptide fraction with a molecular mass of less than 5 KDaltons.
  • the present invention also covers cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical compositions including an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the present invention in different galenic forms, adapted for topical administration.
  • compositions may especially be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders. They can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a foam, or in solid form.
  • compositions contain between 0.01 and 50% by weight of the extract of
  • compositions are obtained by mixing the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.
  • Cetearyl alcohol / Cetearyl glucoside 2.0%
  • the study is carried out on normal human fibroblasts according to the operating protocol that follows. At J1, the fibroblasts are seeded in complete medium containing 10% of
  • Fetal calf serum then incubated in an oven at 37 ° C.
  • the cells are treated with a 1% Debaryomyces hansenii extract diluted in the culture medium.
  • the incubation is done 24 hours in the oven.
  • the purpose of this study is to evaluate the depigmenting activity of an extract from
  • B16F1 melanocyte cultures by measurement of anti-tyrosinase activity and synthesized melanin level.
  • the operating protocol is as follows. At J1, the B16F1 melanocytes are inoculated in a complete medium enriched with 10 nM a-MSH (alpha melanocyte stimulated hormone) with an extract of
  • Debaryomyces hansenii at 2%.
  • the cells are incubated for 48 hours at 37 ° C. At D3, cell trypsination is performed. The color of the pellets is observed and the cells are counted using the Mallassez cell.
  • the pellets are then lysed with ImL of sodium phosphate buffer containing 1% Triton 100X.
  • the cell lysate is centrifuged and the supernatant is recovered for the determination of tyrosinase and the pellet for the determination of the melanin level.
  • the results of the tyrosinase assay show that the 2% Debaryomyces hansenii extract inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, key enzyme of melanogenesis, by 46%
  • the operating procedure consists in cultivating normal human fibroblasts in MEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum.

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of at least one Debaryomyces hansenii extract as an active ingredient for the preparation of a composition for skin treatment. The invention also relates to Debaryomyces hansenii extracts and to any cosmetic and/or dermal-pharmacutical composition containing a Debaryomyces hansenii extract.

Description

UTILISATION COSMETIQUE D'UN EXTRAIT DE DEBARYOMYCES COSMETIC USE OF A DEBARYOMYCES EXTRACT
HANSENIIhansenii
La présente invention concerne l'utilisation d'un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii en tant que principe actif pour une application au traitement de la peau. L'invention se rapporte également à des extraits de Debaryomyces hansenii et aux compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermopharmaceutiques contenant un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii.The present invention relates to the use of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as an active ingredient for an application to the treatment of the skin. The invention also relates to extracts of Debaryomyces hansenii and to cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii.
Debaryomyces hansenii, décrite pour la première fois en 1978 par Meyer et Yarrow, est une levure marine du genre Torulopsis, appartenant à la classe des Ascomycètes. Elle est cryotolérante, alcane-assimilante, de forme ronde à allongée et se reproduit par bourgeonnement multilatéral. Debaryomyces hansenii est utilisée en alimentaire, notamment pour la fabrication du fromage. Elle présente des activités protéolytiques et lipolytiques utiles pour la maturation du fromage. Elle est utilisée en particulier pour le croûtage comme agent d'affinage, favorise l'implantation d'autres microorganismes et joue un rôle de protection contre les contaminants en particulier le Mucor.Debaryomyces hansenii, described for the first time in 1978 by Meyer and Yarrow, is a marine yeast of the genus Torulopsis, belonging to the Ascomycetes class. It is cryotolerant, alkane-assimilating, round to elongated and reproduces by multilateral budding. Debaryomyces hansenii is used in food, especially for making cheese. It has proteolytic and lipolytic activities useful for the maturation of cheese. It is used in particular for crusting as a refining agent, promotes the implantation of other microorganisms and plays a protective role against contaminants, in particular Mucor.
Or1 de façon surprenante, Debaryomyces hansenii présente des propriétés remarquables au niveau de la peau.Gold 1 surprisingly, Debaryomyces hansenii has remarkable properties in the skin.
La peau est un organe complexe qui couvre la surface totale du corps et exerce de nombreuses fonctions vitales. Elle est organisée en trois couches principales : l'épiderme, le derme et l'hypoderme.The skin is a complex organ that covers the entire surface of the body and has many vital functions. It is organized in three main layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis.
La peau est constamment soumise à des agressions, tant externes qu'internes, qui peuvent menacer son équilibre et son aspect. C'est pourquoi on recherche des principes actifs capables de protéger la peau contre ces agressions susceptibles d'altérer son bon fonctionnement et son aspect, et de lutter contre les manifestations qui en découlent. Pour répondre à cette problématique, la présente invention vise à utiliser au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition destinée au traitement de la peau. L'invention vise également des extraits de Debaryomyces hansenii particuliers, utiles en tant que principes actifs pour la préparation de compositions destinées au traitement de la peau, ainsi que des compositions cosmétiques incluant au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii en tant que principe actif.The skin is constantly subjected to both external and internal aggression, which can threaten its balance and appearance. This is why we search for active ingredients able to protect the skin against these attacks that could affect its proper functioning and appearance, and fight against the resulting manifestations. To address this problem, the present invention aims to use at least one extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as active ingredient for the preparation of a composition for the treatment of the skin. The invention also relates to particular Debaryomyces hansenii extracts, useful as active ingredients for the preparation of compositions intended for the treatment of the skin, as well as cosmetic compositions including at least one extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as active ingredient.
Un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii adapté à une utilisation selon l'invention, est susceptible d'être obtenu par un procédé comprenant au moins une étape de solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii dans un milieu aqueux ou hydroglycolique et une étape d'inactivation enzymatique. Un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii susceptible d'être utilisé selon l'invention peut être un hydrolysat chimique ou enzymatique.An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii adapted for use according to the invention is capable of being obtained by a process comprising at least one step of solubilizing Debaryomyces hansenii in an aqueous or hydroglycolic medium and an enzymatic inactivation step. An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii that may be used according to the invention may be a chemical or enzymatic hydrolyzate.
De manière préférentielle, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent contenir de 0,01 à 50 % d'un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii. L'administration d'une composition contenant un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention est de préférence effectuée par voie topique. La composition peut se présenter sous toutes les formes permettant l'application par voie topique.Preferably, the compositions according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 50% of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii. The administration of a composition containing an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is preferably carried out topically. The composition may be in any form allowing topical application.
L'utilisation d'un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention permet de protéger la peau et de lutter contre toutes manifestations perturbant son activité et son apparence.The use of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention makes it possible to protect the skin and to fight against all manifestations that disturb its activity and appearance.
En particulier, l'utilisation d'un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention permet de lutter contre le vieillissement cutané, notamment de prévenir et diminuer les rides, d'améliorer les propriétés biomécaniques de la peau, de restructurer la peau, d'hydrater et de protéger la couche cornée, de blanchir la peau et d'augmenter le renouvellement cellulaire. Le vieillissement cutané se traduit par une peau plus fine, plus lisse, sèche et moins élastique. Son expression la plus évidente se manifeste par l'apparition de rides qui correspondent à des changements dans la structure et la composition du derme. L'essentiel des propriétés mécaniques de résistance à la tension du derme est lié à un réseau fibreu de collagènes, éléments majoritaires de la matrice extracellulaire, et un des principaux paramètres dans la lutte contre le vieillissement cutané et contre l'apparition des rides est la régulation de la biosynthèse et de la dégradation de cette matrice extracellulaire.In particular, the use of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention makes it possible to combat cutaneous aging, in particular to prevent and reduce wrinkles, to improve the biomechanical properties of the skin. skin, restructure the skin, moisturize and protect the stratum corneum, whiten the skin and increase cell renewal. Skin aging results in skin that is thinner, smoother, dry and less elastic. Its most obvious expression is the appearance of wrinkles that correspond to changes in the structure and composition of the dermis. Most of the mechanical properties of tensile strength of the dermis is related to a fibrous network of collagens, major elements of the extracellular matrix, and one of the main parameters in the fight against skin aging and against the appearance of wrinkles is the regulation of the biosynthesis and degradation of this extracellular matrix.
Or un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention est capable de stimuler la synthèse de collagène I constitutif de la matrice extracellulaire de la peau. Ainsi, on peut avantageusement utiliser un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique destinée à prévenir et/ou à traiter les signes du vieillissement cutané, en particulier destinée à prévenir et/ou à lutter contre l'apparition des rides et/ou d'améliorer les propriétés biomécaniques cutanées. La peau est colorée par des pigments, les mélanines, synthétisés par des cellules spécialisées, les mélanocytes. La coloration de la peau varie en fonction du type et de la quantité de mélanines synthétisées.Or an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is capable of stimulating the synthesis of collagen I constitutive of the extracellular matrix of the skin. Thus, it is advantageous to use an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention as an active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of cutaneous aging, in particular intended to prevent and / or to fight against the appearance of wrinkles and / or to improve the cutaneous biomechanical properties. The skin is colored by pigments, melanins, synthesized by specialized cells, melanocytes. The color of the skin varies depending on the type and amount of melanin synthesized.
Plusieurs enzymes sont impliquées dans le processus de mélanogenèse, qui transforment la tyrosine en pigments mélaniques. Parmi ces enzymes, la tyrosinase est une enzyme clé qui catalyse l'hydroxylation de la tyrosine en dihydroxyphanylalanine (DOPA), ainsi que l'oxydation de cette DOPA en DOPAquinone.Several enzymes are involved in the process of melanogenesis, which transforms tyrosine into melanin pigments. Among these enzymes, tyrosinase is a key enzyme that catalyzes the hydroxylation of tyrosine to dihydroxyphanylalanine (DOPA), as well as the oxidation of this DOPA to DOPAquinone.
Un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention est capable d'inhiber l'activité de la tyrosinase et ainsi d'atténuer les pigmentations cutanées disgracieuses. Un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention est donc également utile en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique destinée à la dépigmentation et à l'éclaircissement de la peau. En outre, les extraits de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention sont capables de stimuler la prolifération des f ibroblastes, cellules constitutives du derme. Ainsi, on peut utiliser un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique destinée à favoriser le renouvellement cellulaire de la peau.An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is capable of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and thus of attenuating unsightly skin pigmentations. An extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is therefore also useful as an active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for depigmentation and lightening of the skin. In addition, the Debaryomyces hansenii extracts according to the invention are capable of stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts, constitutive cells of the dermis. Thus, an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention can be used as an active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to promote the cellular renewal of the skin.
La présente invention est maintenant décrite en détail en s'appuyant sur des exemples non limitatifs de procédés d'obtention d'extraits et de compositions.The present invention is now described in detail with reference to non-limiting examples of processes for obtaining extracts and compositions.
1. PROCEDE E)E PREPARATION E>*UN EXTRAIT E)E DEBARYOMYCES HANSENII SELON L'INVENTION1. PROCESS E) PREPARATION E> * EXTRACT E) DEBARYOMYCES HANSENII ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION
L'extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'invention est susceptible d'être obtenu par la mise en oeuvre d'un procédé comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes :The extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the invention is obtainable by the implementation of a process comprising at least the following stages:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii en milieu aqueux ou hydroglycolique, etsolubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in aqueous or hydroglycolic medium, and
- inactivation des enzymes. La deuxième étape permet d'inactiver l'activité des enzymes naturellement présentes dans la levure, et éventuellement d'inactiver également l'activité d'enzymes utilisées dans le procédé. Préférentiel lement la procédé comprend au moins les étapes suivantes :- inactivation of enzymes. The second step makes it possible to inactivate the activity of the enzymes naturally present in the yeast, and possibly also to inactivate the activity of enzymes used in the process. Preferably, the method comprises at least the following steps:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii en milieu aqueux ou hydroglycolique,solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in aqueous or hydroglycolic medium,
- inactivation des enzymes,- inactivation of enzymes,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble, etseparation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and
- purification de la fraction active contenue dans la fraction soluble. Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, le procédé comprend au moins les étapes suivantes :purification of the active fraction contained in the soluble fraction. According to a preferred embodiment, the method comprises at least the following steps:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii en milieux aqueux ou hydroglycolique, préférentiellement à raison de 10 à 200g/l, - hydrolyse(s) enzymatique(s) et/ou chimique(s) successives ou simultanées,solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in aqueous or hydroglycolic media, preferentially at the rate of 10 to 200 g / l, enzymatic hydrolysis (s) and / or chemical (s) successive or simultaneous,
- inactivation des enzymes,- inactivation of enzymes,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble, par filtration, décantation, centrifugation et/ou concentrations successives, et - purification de la fraction active contenue dans la fraction soluble, par filtration, ultraf iltration ou absorption.separation of the soluble and insoluble phases, by filtration, decantation, centrifugation and / or successive concentrations, and purification of the active fraction contained in the soluble fraction, by filtration, ultrafiltration or absorption.
L'étape d'hydrolyse(s) a pour objectif de favoriser la solubilisation de la levure. Elle peut être réalisée par exemple à l'aide de plusieurs enzymes utilisées en combinaison. La proportion en poids de la ou des enzyme(s) est alors comprise entre 0,01 et 20g/l. Cette étape d'hydrolyse(s) enzymatique(s) peut être suivie par une étape de traitement thermique pour réduire les activités enzymatiques résiduelles.The purpose of the hydrolysis step (s) is to promote the solubilization of the yeast. It may be carried out for example using several enzymes used in combination. The proportion by weight of the enzyme (s) (s) is then between 0.01 and 20g / l. This enzymatic hydrolysis step (s) may be followed by a heat treatment step to reduce the residual enzymatic activities.
Le procédé peut également comprendre une étape de déprotéinisation, préférentiellement par précipitation ou adsorption sélective, après l'étape de séparation des phases soluble et insoluble.The method may also comprise a deproteinization step, preferably by precipitation or selective adsorption, after the soluble and insoluble phase separation step.
Après l'étape d'élimination des molécules non actives par filtration ou ultrafiltration, une concentration de la fraction active peut être réalisée par filtration, ultrafiltration et/ou osmose inverse. Une étape de filtration stérilisante et/ou de lyophilisation et/ou d'atomisation peut aussi être introduite. 2. EXEMPLES E>E PRÉPARATION D'EXTRAITS E>E DEBARVOMYCES HANSENII UTILE SELON L'INVENTIONAfter the step of removing the non-active molecules by filtration or ultrafiltration, a concentration of the active fraction can be achieved by filtration, ultrafiltration and / or reverse osmosis. A sterilizing filtration and / or lyophilization and / or atomization step may also be introduced. 2. EXAMPLES E> E PREPARATION OF EXTRACTS E> E DEBARVOMYCES HANSENII USEFUL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE INVENTION
2.1 Procédé de préparation d'un extrait A2.1 Process for preparing an extract A
Le procédé de préparation de l'extrait A comprend les étapes suivantes : - solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii dans un milieu aqueux,The process for preparing extract A comprises the following steps: solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in an aqueous medium,
- hydrolyse(s) enzymatique(s) successiwes(s) d'au moins deux enzymes,- enzymatic hydrolysis (es) (s) successives (s) of at least two enzymes,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble,separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,
- traitement thermique afin de neutraliser les activités enzymatiques,- heat treatment to neutralize enzymatic activities,
- concentration de la fraction soluble par f iltration, - purification de la fraction active par absorption sur adjuvant, etconcentration of the soluble fraction by filtration, purification of the active fraction by absorption on adjuvant, and
- f iltration stérilisante.sterilizing f iltration.
2.2 Procédé de préparation d'un extrait B2.2 Process for preparing an extract B
Le procédé de préparation de l'extrait B comprend les étapes suivantes :The process for preparing extract B comprises the following steps:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii dans un milieu aqueux, - hydrolyse enzymatique,solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in an aqueous medium, enzymatic hydrolysis,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble,separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,
- traitement thermique afin de neutraliser l'activité enzymatique,heat treatment in order to neutralize the enzymatic activity,
- concentration de la fraction soluble par f iltration, etconcentration of the soluble fraction by filtration, and
- f iltration stérilisante et atomisation. 2.3 Procédé de préparation d'un extrait Csterilizing filtration and atomization. 2.3 Process for the preparation of an extract C
Le procédé de préparation de l'extrait C comprend les étapes suivantes :The process for preparing extract C comprises the following steps:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii dans un milieu hydroglycolique pouvant contenir 0 à 50% de solvant de type butylène glycol, - séparation des phases soluble et insoluble,solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in a hydroglycolic medium which may contain 0 to 50% of butylene glycol solvent, separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,
- concentration de la fraction soluble par f iltration, etconcentration of the soluble fraction by filtration, and
- f iltration stérilisante et lyophilisation. 3. CARACTERISAT-ON D'EXTRAITS E)E DEBARyQMYCES HANSENII SELON L'INVENTIONsterilizing filtration and lyophilization. 3. CHARACTERIZING EXTRACTS E) DEBARYQMYCES HANSENII ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION
Les exemples de procédés de préparation décrits au paragraphe 2. permettent d'obtenir des extraits de Debaryomyces hansenii susceptibles d'être utilisés selon l'invention, caractérisés par différents paramètres. 3.1/ Matières sèchesThe examples of preparation methods described in paragraph 2 make it possible to obtain extracts of Debaryomyces hansenii that can be used according to the invention, characterized by various parameters. 3.1 / Dry matter
On mesure le taux de matières sèches par passage à l'étuve à 1050C d'un échantillon de poids initial donné jusqu'à obtention d'un poids constant.The rate of solids is measured by passing in an oven at 105 ° C. of a sample of initial weight given until a constant weight is obtained.
Le taux de matières sèches est compris entre 5 et 300g/l.The solids content is between 5 and 300 g / l.
3.2/ Mesure du pH Le pH est mesuré par la méthode potentiométrique à température ambiante. On obtient des valeurs comprises entre 4,0 et 10,0.3.2 / pH measurement The pH is measured by the potentiometric method at room temperature. Values between 4.0 and 10.0 are obtained.
3.3/ Détermination de la teneur en sucres totaux3.3 / Determination of total sugar content
On utilise la méthode de DUBOIS (DUBOIS M. & al [1956], Analytical chemistry, 28, n°3 p 350-356). En présence d'acide sulfurique concentré et de phénol, les sucres réducteurs donnent un composé jaune-orangé.The DUBOIS method (DUBOIS M. et al [1956], Analytical Chemistry, 28, No. 3, p 350-356) is used. In the presence of concentrated sulfuric acid and phenol, the reducing sugars give a yellow-orange compound.
A partir d'une gamme étalon, on peut déterminer le taux de sucres totaux d'un échantillon.From a standard range, the total sugar content of a sample can be determined.
Le taux de sucres totaux des extraits selon la présente invention sont de 0,1 à 100 g/1.The total sugar level of the extracts according to the present invention are from 0.1 to 100 g / l.
3.4/ Caractérisation des carbohydrates3.4 / Characterization of carbohydrates
Un analyse HPLC (chromatographie liquide haute performance) des extraits montre que la fraction glucidique est composée essentiellement de glucose et de mannose. 3.5/ Détermination de la teneur en protéinesHPLC (high performance liquid chromatography) analysis of the extracts shows that the carbohydrate moiety is composed essentially of glucose and mannose. 3.5 / Determination of protein content
Le taux de protéines des extraits est obtenu par la méthode de LOWRY. Les résultats donnent une teneur en protéines de 1 à 135g/l. 3.6/ Cαrαctérisαtion de la fraction protéiqueThe protein content of the extracts is obtained by the LOWRY method. The results give a protein content of 1 to 135 g / l. 3.6 / Cαrαctérisαtion of the protein fraction
La masse molaire des différentes espèces moléculaires présentes dans les extraits est déterminée par FPLC (« fast protein liquid chromatography).The molar mass of the different molecular species present in the extracts is determined by FPLC (fast protein liquid chromatography).
Des marqueurs permettent de servir d'étalons et on constate que le principe actif selon l'invention est composé essentiellement d'une fraction peptidique de masse moléculaire inférieure à 5 KDaltons.Markers make it possible to serve as standards and it is found that the active ingredient according to the invention is essentially composed of a peptide fraction with a molecular mass of less than 5 KDaltons.
4. EXEMPLES E>E COMPOSITIONS4. EXAMPLES E> E COMPOSITIONS
La présente invention couvre aussi les compositions cosmétiques et/ou dermopharmaceutiques incluant un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la présente invention dans différentes formes galéniques, adaptées à l'administration par voie topique.The present invention also covers cosmetic and / or dermopharmaceutical compositions including an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii according to the present invention in different galenic forms, adapted for topical administration.
Ces compositions peuvent se présenter notamment sous forme de crèmes, émulsions huile-dans-eau, émulsions eau-dans-huile, émulsions multiples, solutions, suspensions ou poudres. Elles peuvent être plus ou moins fluides et avoir l'aspect d'une crème, d'une lotion, d'un lait, d'un sérum, d'une pommade, d'un gel, d'une pâte ou d'une mousse, ou sous forme solide.These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders. They can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, a lotion, a milk, a serum, an ointment, a gel, a paste or a foam, or in solid form.
Ces compositions contiennent entre 0,01 et 50 % en poids de l'extrait deThese compositions contain between 0.01 and 50% by weight of the extract of
Debaryomyces hansenii selon la présente invention.Debaryomyces hansenii according to the present invention.
Les exemples de compositions qui suivent sont obtenus par mélange des différents composants. Les quantités indiquées sont données en pourcentage de poids.The following examples of compositions are obtained by mixing the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.
4.1 Exemple de composition anti-rides La formulation est la suivante :4.1 Example of anti-wrinkle composition The formulation is as follows:
- acide stéarique : 7,0% - Myristate isopropyl : 7,0%- stearic acid: 7.0% - Myristate isopropyl: 7.0%
- Stearyl alcool/Ceteareth 20 : 3,0%- Stearyl Alcohol / Ceteareth 20: 3.0%
- Stearyl stéarate : 1,0%- Stearyl stearate: 1.0%
- Minerai oil/dibutyl lauryl glutamide : 1,0% - Conservateurs : 0,7%- Ore oil / dibutyl lauryl glutamide: 1.0% - Conservatives: 0.7%
- Triethanolamine : 0,3%- Triethanolamine: 0.3%
- Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii : 5,0%- Debaryomyces hansenii extract: 5.0%
- Eau : 75% 4.2 Exemple de composition hydratante- Water: 75% 4.2 Example of moisturizing composition
La formulation est la suivante :The wording is:
- Cetearyl octonoate : 5,0%- Cetearyl octonoate: 5.0%
- Isopropyl palmitate : 5,0%- Isopropyl palmitate: 5.0%
- Polyacπïamide/C13-C14 Isoparaff ine/laureth7 : 2,0%Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 Isoparaffin / Laureth7: 2.0%
- Montanox 60 : 1,7%- Montanox 60: 1.7%
- Sorbitan sesquioleate : 1,3%- Sorbitan sesquioleate: 1.3%
- Conservateurs : 0,7%- Conservatives: 0.7%
- Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii : 8,0% - Eau : 76,3%- Debaryomyces hansenii extract: 8.0% - Water: 76.3%
4.3 Exemple de composition rafermissante La formulation est la suivante :4.3 Example of a firming composition The formulation is as follows:
- Isononyl isononanoate : 5,0%- Isononyl isononanoate: 5.0%
- Arachidyl alcool/Behenyl alcool/ Arachidyl glucoside : 3,0%- Arachidyl alcohol / Behenyl alcohol / Arachidyl glucoside: 3.0%
- Cetearyl alcool/Cetearyl glucoside : 2,0%Cetearyl alcohol / Cetearyl glucoside: 2.0%
- Polyacrilamide/C13-14 Isoparaff in/ Laureth-7 : 2,0%- Polyacrilamide / C13-14 Isoparaff in / Laureth-7: 2.0%
- Conservateurs : 0,7% - Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii : 4,0%- Preservatives: 0.7% - Debaryomyces hansenii extract: 4.0%
- Eau : 83,3 4.4 Exemple de composition restructurante La formulation est la suivante :- Water: 83.3 4.4 Example of a restructuring composition The formulation is as follows:
- Isohexadecane : 5,0%- Isohexadecane: 5.0%
- Arachidyl alcool/Behenyl Alcool/ Arachidyl glucoside : 3,0%- Arachidyl alcohol / Behenyl Alcohol / Arachidyl glucoside: 3.0%
- Butylène glycol : 3,0%- Butylene glycol: 3.0%
- Isopropyl palmitate : 2,0%- Isopropyl palmitate: 2.0%
- Polyacπïamide/C-13-C14 paraffine/ Iaureth7 : 1,5% - Cetearyl alcool : 1,0%- Polyacrylamide / C-13-C14 paraffin / Iaureth7: 1.5% - cetearyl alcohol: 1.0%
- PEG-IOO stéarate : 1,0%- PEG-100 stearate: 1.0%
- Glyceryl stéarate : 1,0%- Glyceryl stearate: 1.0%
- Conservateurs : 0,7%- Conservatives: 0.7%
- Dimethicone/Cyclomethicone 0,5% - Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii: 20,0%- Dimethicone / Cyclomethicone 0.5% - Debaryomyces hansenii extract: 20.0%
- Eau : 61,3%- Water: 61.3%
4.5 Exemple de composition dépiqmentante La formulation est la suivante :4.5 Example of a depiction composition The formulation is as follows:
- Arachidyl alcool / Behenyl alcool / Arachidyl glucoside : 3,0%- Arachidyl alcohol / Behenyl alcohol / Arachidyl glucoside: 3.0%
- Isononyl isononanoate : 2,0%- Isononyl isononanoate: 2.0%
- Cetearyl octanoate : 10,0%Cetearyl octanoate: 10.0%
- Polyacrilamide / C13-14 Isoparaff in- Polyacrilamide / C13-14 Isoparaff in
/ Laureth-7 : 2,0% - Conservateurs : 0,5 :%%/ Laureth-7: 2.0% - Preservatives: 0.5 : %%
- Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii: 4,0%- Debaryomyces hansenii extract: 4.0%
- Eau : 78,5% % 5. EVALUATION E>E L'EFFET E>ES EXTRAITS E>E DEBARVOMYCES HANSENII SELON- Water: 78.5% 5. EVALUATION E> E THE EFFECT E> ES EXTRACTS E> E DEBARVOMYCES HANSENII ACCORDING TO
L'INVENTIONTHE INVENTION
5.1/ Etude de l'effet αnti-αqe Cette étude α pour objectif d'évaluer l'effet d'un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii sur la synthèse de collagène I, composant majeur de la matrice extracellulaire du derme.5.1 / Study of the αnti-αqe effect This study aims to evaluate the effect of an extract of Debaryomyces hansenii on the synthesis of collagen I, a major component of the extracellular matrix of the dermis.
L'étude est réalisée sur des fibroblastes humains normaux selon le protocole opératoire qui suit. A Jl, les fibroblastes sont ensemencés dans un milieu complet contenant 10% deThe study is carried out on normal human fibroblasts according to the operating protocol that follows. At J1, the fibroblasts are seeded in complete medium containing 10% of
Sérum de Veau Fœtal, puis sont incubés dans une étuve à 37°C.Fetal calf serum, then incubated in an oven at 37 ° C.
A J2, les cellules sont traitées awec un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii à 1% dilué dans le milieu de culture. L'incubation se fait 24 heures à l'étuve.At day 2, the cells are treated with a 1% Debaryomyces hansenii extract diluted in the culture medium. The incubation is done 24 hours in the oven.
A J3, les surnageants sont récupérés puis stockés à -800C avant analyse par dosage ELISA.On D3, the supernatants are recovered and then stored at -80 ° C. before analysis by ELISA assay.
Les résultats obtenus, présentés dans le tableau ci-dessous, sont exprimés en pourcentage de collagène I synthétisé par rapport à un témoin :The results obtained, presented in the table below, are expressed as a percentage of collagen I synthesized with respect to a control:
Figure imgf000012_0001
Figure imgf000012_0001
On constate que l'utilisation de l'extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii à 1% stimule la synthèse de collagène I par fibroblastes humains normaux de 63%.It has been found that the use of the 1% Debaryomyces hansenii extract stimulates the synthesis of collagen I by normal human fibroblasts by 63%.
5.2/ Etude de l'activité dépiqmentante5.2 / Study of the depiqmentante activity
Le but de cette étude est d'évaluer l'activité dépigmentante d'un extrait deThe purpose of this study is to evaluate the depigmenting activity of an extract from
Debaryomyces hansenii sur des cultures de mélanocytes B16F1 par mesure de l'activité anti-tyrosinase et du taux de mélanine synthétisé. Le protocole opératoire est le suivant. A Jl, les mélαnocytes B16F1 sont ensemencés dans un milieu complet enrichi par 1OnM de a-MSH (alpha melanocyte stimulated hormone) avec un extrait deDebaryomyces hansenii on B16F1 melanocyte cultures by measurement of anti-tyrosinase activity and synthesized melanin level. The operating protocol is as follows. At J1, the B16F1 melanocytes are inoculated in a complete medium enriched with 10 nM a-MSH (alpha melanocyte stimulated hormone) with an extract of
Debaryomyces hansenii à 2%. Les cellules sont incubées pendant 48 heures à 37°C. A J3, on réalise une trypsination cellulaire. On observe la couleur des culots et on compte les cellules à l'aide de la cellule de Mallassez. Les culots sont ensuite lysés avec ImL de tampon sodium phosphate contenant 1% de Triton 100X. Le lysat cellulaire est centrifugé et le surnageant est récupéré pour le dosage de la tyrosinase et le culot pour le dosage du taux de mélanine. Les résultats du dosage de tyrosinase montrent que l'extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii dosé à 2% inhibe l'activité de la tyrosinase, enzyme-clé de la mélanogenèse, de 46%Debaryomyces hansenii at 2%. The cells are incubated for 48 hours at 37 ° C. At D3, cell trypsination is performed. The color of the pellets is observed and the cells are counted using the Mallassez cell. The pellets are then lysed with ImL of sodium phosphate buffer containing 1% Triton 100X. The cell lysate is centrifuged and the supernatant is recovered for the determination of tyrosinase and the pellet for the determination of the melanin level. The results of the tyrosinase assay show that the 2% Debaryomyces hansenii extract inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, key enzyme of melanogenesis, by 46%
Concernant le dosage du taux de mélanine synthétisé, les résultats montrent que l'extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii à 2% réduit de 57% la synthèse de mélanine. 5.3/ Etude de l'effet sur le renouvellement cellulaireRegarding the determination of the melanin content synthesized, the results show that the 2% Debaryomyces hansenii extract reduces melanin synthesis by 57%. 5.3 / Study of the effect on cell renewal
L'objectif de cette étude est de déterminer l'effet d'un extrait deThe purpose of this study is to determine the effect of an extract from
Debaryomyces hansenii sur la capacité de prolifération de fibroblastes humains normaux.Debaryomyces hansenii on the proliferation capacity of normal human fibroblasts.
Le protocole opératoire consiste à cultiver des fibroblastes humains normaux en milieu MEM additionné de 10% de sérum de veau foetal.The operating procedure consists in cultivating normal human fibroblasts in MEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum.
Après 24 heures, le milieu de culture est remplacé, puis additionné d'un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii à 1%.After 24 hours, the culture medium is replaced, then added with a 1% Debaryomyces hansenii extract.
Après 72 heures de traitement, on étudié la croissance cellulaire par mesure de coloration M.T.T. (Methyl Tiazol diphenyl Tetrazolium). On mesure la densité optique à 540nm.After 72 hours of treatment, cell growth was measured by M.T.T. (Methyl Tiazol diphenyl Tetrazolium). The optical density is measured at 540 nm.
Les résultats exprimés en pourcentage de prolifération cellulaire, sont présentés dans le tableau qui suit :
Figure imgf000014_0001
The results expressed as a percentage of cell proliferation are presented in the following table:
Figure imgf000014_0001
On constate qu'après 72 heures de traitement, l'extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii à 1% favorise le renouvellement cellulaire de fibroblastes humains de 112%. It is found that after 72 hours of treatment, the 1% Debaryomyces hansenii extract promotes cellular renewal of human fibroblasts by 112%.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Utilisation d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique destinée au traitement de la peau.Use of at least one extract of Debaryomyces hansenii as an active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic composition for the treatment of the skin.
2. Utilisation d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la composition est une composition cosmétique destinée à prévenir et/ou traiter le vieillissement cutané.2. Use of at least one Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition is a cosmetic composition for preventing and / or treating cutaneous aging.
3. Utilisation d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que la composition est une composition cosmétique destinée à améliorer les propriétés biomécaniques de la peau. 3. Use of at least one Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition is a cosmetic composition intended to improve the biomechanical properties of the skin.
4. Utilisation d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que la composition est une composition cosmétique destinée à prévenir et/ou lutter contre l'apparition des rides et à restructurer la peau.4. Use of at least one Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition is a cosmetic composition intended to prevent and / or fight against the appearance of wrinkles and to restructure the skin.
5. Utilisation d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la composition est une composition cosmétique destinée à hydrater et protéger la couche cornée de la peau.5. Use of at least one Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition is a cosmetic composition for moisturizing and protecting the stratum corneum of the skin.
6. Utilisation d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que la composition est une composition cosmétique destinée à une activité dépigmentante ou éclaircissante. 6. Use of at least one Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition is a cosmetic composition intended for depigmenting or lightening activity.
7. Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii adapté pour l'utilisation selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, susceptible d'être obtenu par un procédé comprenant au moins :7. Debaryomyces hansenii extract adapted for use according to one of claims 1 to 6, obtainable by a process comprising at least:
- une étape de solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii dans un milieu aqueux ou hydroglycolique, et - une étape d'inactivation des enzymes. a step of solubilizing Debaryomyces hansenii in an aqueous or hydroglycolic medium, and a step of inactivation of the enzymes.
8. Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 7, susceptible d'être obtenu par un procédé comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes :8. Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 7, obtainable by a process comprising at least the following steps:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii en milieux aqueux ou hydroglycolique,solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in aqueous or hydroglycolic media,
- inactivation des enzymes,- inactivation of enzymes,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble, etseparation of the soluble and insoluble phases, and
- purification de la fraction active contenue dans la fraction soluble.purification of the active fraction contained in the soluble fraction.
9. Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon la revendication 7 ou 8, susceptible d'être obtenu par un procédé comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes :9. Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to claim 7 or 8, obtainable by a process comprising at least the following steps:
- solubilisation de Debaryomyces hansenii en milieux aqueux ou hydroglycolique,solubilization of Debaryomyces hansenii in aqueous or hydroglycolic media,
- hydrolyse(s) enzymatique(s) et/ou chimique(s) successives ou simultanées,- enzymatic (s) and / or chemical (s) successive or simultaneous hydrolysis (s),
- inactivation des enzymes,- inactivation of enzymes,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble, par filtration, décantation, centrifugation et/ou concentrations successives, etseparation of the soluble and insoluble phases, by filtration, decantation, centrifugation and / or successive concentrations, and
- purification de la fraction active contenue dans la fraction soluble, par filtration ou ultraf iltration.purification of the active fraction contained in the soluble fraction, by filtration or ultrafiltration.
10. Extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii selon l'une des revendications 7 à 9, caractérisé par :10. Debaryomyces hansenii extract according to one of claims 7 to 9, characterized by:
- un taux de matières sèches compris entre 5 et 300g/l,a solids content of between 5 and 300 g / l,
- un pH comprise entre 4 et 10, - une teneur en protéine comprise entre 1 et 135g/l, eta pH of between 4 and 10, a protein content of between 1 and 135 g / l, and
- une teneur en sucres totaux comprise entre 0,1 et 100g/l. a total sugar content of between 0.1 and 100 g / l.
11. Composition cosmétique adaptée pour l'utilisation selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient comme principe actif entre 0,01 et 50% d'au moins un extrait de Debaryomyces hansenii.11. Cosmetic composition adapted for use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains as active ingredient between 0.01 and 50% of at least one extract of Debaryomyces hansenii.
12. Composition cosmétique selon la revendications 11, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous forme de crème, émulsion huile-dans-eau, émulsion eau-dans-huile, émulsions multiples, solutions, suspensions ou poudres. 12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11, characterized in that it is in the form of cream, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders.
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