WO2007104740A1

WO2007104740A1 - Silicon free hair cleaning emulsion

Info

Publication number: WO2007104740A1
Application number: PCT/EP2007/052299
Authority: WO
Inventors: Harald Albrecht; Horst Argembeaux; Khiet Hien Diec; Birgit Heitmann; Sebastian Otto; Stephan Ruppert
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2006-03-13
Filing date: 2007-03-12
Publication date: 2007-09-20
Also published as: DE102006011884A1

Abstract

The invention relates to foamable surfactant-containing emulsions which have a silicon compound content of 0 to 0,001 wt.%, containing at least one ethoxylated and/or propoxylated fatty acid or at least one ethoxylated and/or propoxylated fatty alcohol or their derivatives, at least one glycerol ester, one or more lipids and at least one cationic protective component and, if desired, additional cosmetic active substances, adjuvants and additives.

Description

Beiersdorf AG Hamburg

Silicone-free hair cleansing emulsion

The present invention relates to silicone-free hair cleansing emulsions, in particular shampoo preparations containing glyceryl esters and ethoxylated fatty acids and fatty alcohols in combination with one or more cationic care components. Such hair cleansing emulsions have improved combability as well as gloss and sensory properties (hair, foam).

The entire human body except the lips, the palms and soles of the feet is hairy, but mostly with scarcely visible woolly hairs. Because of the many nerve endings on the hair root hair is sensitive to external influences such as wind or touch and are therefore a not to be underestimated part of the sense of touch. However, the most important function of the human head hair today should be to shape the appearance of humans in a characteristic way. Similar to the skin, it fulfills a social function because it contributes significantly to interpersonal relationships and self-esteem of the individual through its appearance.

The hair consists of the hair shaft, which protrudes freely from the skin - the keratinized (dead) part, which is actually the visible hair - and the hair root stuck in the skin - the living part in which the visible hair is constantly being re-formed. The hair shaft in turn is composed of three layers: a central part - the so-called Haarmark (medulla), which is regressed in humans and often completely absent - also the medulla (cortex) and the outer, up to ten layers strong cuticle (cuticle) that covers the whole hair.

The human hair is, if there are no pathological changes, practically not to improve in his freshly regrown state. The part of a hair near the scalp accordingly has an almost closed cuticle layer. In particular, the cuticle layer as outer shell of the hair, but also the inner area below the cuticle are exposed to special stress due to environmental influences. Significant influences for the loss of quality of a hair during its aging are the influence of sunlight, mechanical stress due to intensive combing or brushing, but also hair treatments such as hair dyeing and in particular bleaching and hair deformations, for example perming procedures. In particular, oxidative stress often leads to damage to the hair.

Both UV-A and UV-B radiation have a damaging effect on the hair, which manifests itself, for example, in the fact that certain amino acids such as cystine and methionine are broken down or sulfur-sulfur bonds of keratin are split, which in the worst case Destruction of the hair can result. Furthermore, the hair and scalp are parts of the body that are exposed to a significant amount of UV radiation due to their position when they are outdoors.

One goal of hair care is to protect the scalp and hair from oxidative influences and preserve the natural state of the newly regrown hair for as long as possible and restore it in the event of loss. Silky sheen, low porosity and a pleasant, smooth feel are considered features of natural, healthy hair.

Since the end of the 19th century, hair care products have been developed specifically. This has resulted in a variety of preparations for both general hair care and hair and scalp anomalies. In general, today hair care cosmetics are used, which are either intended to be rinsed out after exposure to the hair, or which should remain on the hair. The latter can be formulated so that they not only serve the care of the individual hair, but also improve the overall appearance of a hairstyle. This kind of well-groomed hair is characterized by a pleasant grip, natural shine, increased fullness, smoothness, good combability and thus good manageability and firmness and thus good fit of the hairstyle.

Damaged or damaged hair after shampooing is usually rough, poorly combed and lackluster. The consumer has the need for additional care. For this reason, shampoos for this type of hair additionally contain conditioning components; the cationic polymers are widespread. These improve the care properties such as combability and grip in both dry and wet hair and shine.

Chemical pretreatment and environmental influences remove the natural fat components on the hair (C. Robbins, Behavior of Hair, chapter δ, Cleaning hair, 3rd Edition, 1997, pages 166-177). The hair appears dry and brittle, lackluster and has no healthy Appearance. He lacks smoothness, suppleness and shine. To achieve a higher care effect, the cationic polymers mentioned above must be used in very high concentrations or in combination with silicone compounds (M. Berthiaume, Silicone in Hair Care, Chapter 3, Shampoos, SCC Monographs Sesies 1997, pages 26-40) or in combination with hydrophobic conditioning ingredients. The silicone oil used is hydrophobic, has only a high molecular weight and certain chain length. Formally, these formulations are emulsions, which accordingly also have a white, creamy appearance. In order to produce this emulsion stably, however, it requires an elaborate formulation technology.

The disadvantage of the prior art is that although the silicone oil applied to the hair raises, but the o. G. Nursing effects provides, but there is also a depot-forming effect of silicone oil on the hair in frequent shampooing: on the hair forms a growing layer of silicone oil in each application. With regular use, this leads to a decrease in harvum volume and fullness due to increasing weighting of the hair with high-molecular-weight oil. The use of starch derivatives could not remedy the disadvantages of the prior art in the past.

Another disadvantage is that the hydrophobic silicone oil used suppresses the foam quantity. Due to this, a high amount of washing-active substances are used. This creates the unwanted side effect such. Hair becomes stringy, dry and brittle. They lack suppleness, shine and refatting.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to eliminate or at least alleviate the deficiencies of the prior art and to develop well-tolerated hair care products which help even severely damaged hair to regain shine, fullness, tone and feel.

When using shampoos, the properties such as foam, Haagriffgefühl, sensors on the hair, combability, shine, and mildness and care get an increasing importance for the consumer. Cationic polymers (polyquaternium or guar compounds) are the basis-care raw materials for shampoo formulations, but they do not give the consumer adequate care.

On the European patent EP 0 554 292 B1 are O / W emulsions containing oil body, alkyl polyglucisie, Fettsäurepartialglyceride and fatty alcohols. The mixtures are not completely satisfactory in terms of their foam sensor, combability and hair shine effect. Subject of the claimed in the patent EP 07 76 658 B1 mixture Alkyl polyglucosides and fatty acid partial glycerides exhibit unsatisfactory foaming power. Although both EP Patent 86 52 272 describe conditioning shampoos with a mixture of surfactants, fatty alcohol derivatives and polyols and WO Patent 200100149, WO 03101418 and DE 101 50 728 cosmetic preparations with surfactants and fatty alcohols, but these writings were not the way to the present Invention exhibit.

The disadvantages of the prior art are surprisingly overcome and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art - which is the object of the invention - by foamable surfactant-containing emulsions containing from 0 to 0.001% by weight of silicone compounds containing at least one ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty acid or at least one ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty alcohol or its derivative, at least one glyceryl ester, one or more lipids and at least one cationic care component and, if desired, further cosmetic active substances, auxiliaries and additives.

Glyceryl esters and ethoxylated fatty acids or alcohols in combination with cationic conditioning agents provide a synergistic effect on care and shine.

The synergistic effect of care and shine, as well as a creamy, rich foam, thus a much higher conditioning performance and a healthy look are perceived by the consumer as very nourishing and very pleasant.

It is advantageous if the emulsion is of the oil-in-water type.

The optically creamy or pearlescent surface-active emulsions according to the invention are based on emulsions of the oil-in-water type, comprising a fatty phase and a water phase.

Emulsions are two-phase systems of two immiscible liquid phases, in the simplest case a droplet-shaped inner disperse phase being surrounded by a continuous outer phase.

To stabilize emulsions, emulsifiers are used which reduce the interfacial tension. With the aid of the HLB system, it is possible to calculate, taking into account the oil phase, which emulsifier or which emulsifier combination can be used. An ideal emulsifier or ideal emulsifier mixture has, inter alia, the following properties: high interfacial activity, lowering of the interfacial tension, stabilization by an "emulsifier pellicle", rapid spreading capacity at the interface, high surface viscosity and elasticity of the emulsifier film for delaying the coalescence also a described emulsion which comprises an oil phase and a water phase containing:

One or more polyethoxylated O / W emulsifiers and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers,

10

One or more W / O emulsifiers,

One or more surfactants,

> 5 or more oils,

• one or more cationic components,

besides possibly further cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives. Preferably, such an emulsion is optically creamy or pearlescent in color. It is particularly preferred if the emulsifier content is 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight. It is further preferred if the glyceryl ester is glyceryl stearate or its derivative, and the ratio of glyceryl ester to fatty acid ethoxylate and / or its derivatives in the preparations according to the invention is 1: 10 to 10: 1, more preferably 1: 5 to 5: 1. It is also preferred if the ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty acid or alcohol has an alkoxylation degree of from 0 to 150, more preferably from 20 to 60. It is particularly preferred if the surfactant content is between 1 and 70% by weight, more preferably between 1 and 50% by weight.

It is further preferred if ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols with 12 to 14 and / or alkylamidopropylbetaine are used as anionic, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants. It is also particularly preferred if the lipid or lipids are selected from the group of ester oils, the carbonates, hydrocarbon-based oils, vegetable oils.

It is preferred in this case if the content of the cationic care component is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, very preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight. It is preferred if the emulsion as further constituents opacifiers and / or Verdi Contains cker and / or additional surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients are included. Particularly preferred emulsions are characterized in that the viscosity is between 1000 and 10000 Pa s, measured with the Haake Viscotester VT 2 at 20 ° C. The invention also encompasses the use of one of the emulsions described for improving the gloss, combability and sensory properties of the hair and a cosmetic preparation comprising emulsions according to the invention which are suitable for hair and for the body.

The cosmetic cleaning compositions containing the care combinations according to the invention are topical preparations. These may additionally contain conventional active ingredients, ingredients, additives and / or adjuvants and are used for the treatment and care of the skin, scalp and / or hair. For use, the preparations of the invention are applied in the usual manner for cosmetics and hair cleansers on the scalp and hair in sufficient quantity.

Advantageously, preparations in the sense of the present invention can be present as emulsions or solutions.

The compositions according to the invention may for example consist of squeeze bottles or preparations which can be metered by a pumping or spraying device, but also agents which can be applied in normal bottles and containers.

To demonstrate the special care performance, various physical in vitro tests such. B. wet combability, gloss, foam quality, feel, fluidity, etc., as well as in-vivo performance half-page tests performed with different formulations.

The polyethoxylated or polypropylated O / W emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group:

the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 100, preferably represent 20 to 60. They are, for example, advantageously selected from polyethylene glycol (40) stearate, polyethylene glycol (30) stearate, polyethylene glycol (40) isostearate or polyethylene glycol (25) oleate.

the fatty alcohol ethoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H, where R is a branched or unbranched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 5 to 30 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 80, preferably 10 to 30 represent. They are, for example, selected from polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15) or polyethylene glycol (30) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-30),

The ethoxylated sorbitan esters having a degree of ethoxylation of 3 to 100, preferably 10 to 30. They are preferably selected from polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate or polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearat.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers used are selected particularly advantageously from the group of substances with HLB values of 8-17, very particularly advantageously with HLB values of 10-16, provided that the O / W Emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers may also be lower or higher.

The w / o emulsifiers advantageous according to the invention can be used: fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C-atoms, and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Furthermore, according to the invention, one or more oil components are advantageously present in a concentration of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight and most preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 3% by weight, respectively based on the total weight of the preparation use.

The oil phase of the invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can are then advantageously selected from the group dicapryl carbonates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl, with isopropyl, Isononylisononanoat, Isotridecylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylisostea- rat, Dicaprylylether and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg. B. jojoba oil.

Further, the oil component can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane - Carboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. They are z. Dicaprylyl ethers, paraffin oil and waxes, e.g. Cetyl palmitate. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, almond oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

The oil component is also advantageously selected from the group of phospholipids. Of the utmost importance among the phosphatidylcholines are, for example, the lecithins.

Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the cationic polymers are used in a concentration of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 5% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.01 to 1% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.

Commonly used cationic polymers are: cationic cellulose derivatives synthesized based on hydroxycellulose with a trimethylammonium substituted epoxide known as

Polyquaternium-10; cationic polysaccharides, especially modified guar derivatives; Polymers based on the monomer diallyldimethylammonium chloride, such as polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-7 as a copolymer with acrylamide; Copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylate and methacrylylpropylpropyltrimonium chloride as Polyquaternium-47; Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylmethylimidazolium salt such as Polyquaternium-44 or Polyquaternium-16.

Formulations according to the invention which are hair cosmetic cleansing preparations for the hair or the scalp can be present in liquid or solid form. They preferably contain at least one anionic, nonionic or amphoteric surface active substance or mixtures thereof, if appropriate an electrolyte and auxiliaries, as customarily used for this purpose. The surface-active substance may be concentrated in a concentrated ration between 1 and 70% by weight in the cleaning preparations, based on the total weight of the preparations, but in particular between 1 and 50% by weight.

Anionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of between 5 and 30% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation. In question come z. B. Sodium Laureth Sulfate as it is offered under the name Texapon N 70 by the company Cognis or Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate as it is offered under the name Rewopol SBFA 30 by the company Witco. Other anionic surfactants are acylamino acids and their salts such. As acylglutamates and / or their derivatives, sarcosinates and / or derivatives thereof, taurates and / or derivatives thereof and carboxylic acids and their derivatives and phosphoric acid esters and salts thereof.

Nonionic surfactants are preferably used in concentrations of 1 to 10% by weight. Examples are decyl glucosides as offered under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company Seppic or polysorbates 80 as it is offered under the name Tween 80 by the company Uniqema / ICI.

Amphoteric tendides are preferably used at a concentration of 1 to 10% by weight. Examples are cocamidopropyl betaine as it is offered as Tego betaine by the company Goidschmidt or sodium cocoamphoacetate as it is offered under the name Miranol Ultra by the company Rhone Poulene.

The preparations according to the invention may contain cosmetic adjuvants such as are conventionally used in such preparations, eg. As preservatives, perfumes, foam stabilizers, dyes, pigments, which have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, lubricating agents, alcohols, polyols and their toxicologically acceptable ethers and esters, branched and / or unbranched hydrocarbons, other antioxidants, stabilizers, pH Regulators, bodying agents, bactericides, deodorants, antimicrobials, antistatic agents, UV absorbers (UV-A and UV-B filters), common antioxidants, complexing agents and sequestering agents, pearlescing agents, polymers, electrolytes, organic compounds Solvents, plant extracts, vitamins and / or other active ingredients or other common components of a cosmic or dermatological formulations.

The total amount of the excipients is for example 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation. The water content of the preparation is for example 40 to 95 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 90 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation.

The pH of the preparations can be adjusted in a known manner by addition of acids or bases, preferably by addition of buffer mixtures, eg. B. based on citric acid / citrate or phosphoric phosphate buffergemsichen. Preferably, the pH is below 10, e.g. in the range of 4 to 8, in particular in the range 5 to 7.

The preparation of the invention may, for. B. are manufactured as follows:

The components of the fat phase are weighed and melted homogeneously at about 75 ° C. In a second vessel, the components of the water phase are weighed and heated to about 75 ° C. The water phase is then added in portions to the fat phase with stirring. Subsequently, the mixture is homogenized. The surfactant phase is added to the emulsion after the homogenization step. If desired, further auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients are dissolved and added to the mixture. The formed preparation is then cooled to room temperature. This is preferably done with stirring.

Examples of hair cosmetic conditioning shampoos:

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

The pH of the shampoos is adjusted to 5-6 and the viscosity between 1000 - 10000 mPa s (Haake viscometer, VT02).

rid) and pH adjustment (Citron Acid)

Water, VES ad ad ad ad ad ad ad 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

^* Homogenizer 920G: Mixture of Stearyl Alcohol + Cetyl Alcohol + Ceteareth-25 + Ceteareth-15 + Myristyl Alcohol + Myreth-4.

Claims

claims

1. Foamable surfactant-containing emulsions having a content of silicone compounds from 0 to 0.001 wt.% Containing at least one ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty acid o- of at least one ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty alcohol or their /

Derivative, at least one glyceryl ester, one or more lipids and at least one cationic care component and, if desired, other cosmetic active ingredients, excipients and additives.

2. Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it is of the oil-in-water type.

3. Emulsion according to claim 1 comprising an oil phase and a water phase, comprising:

a) one or more polyethoxylated O / W emulsifiers and / or polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers,

b) one or more W / O emulsifiers,

c) one or more surfactants,

d) one or more oils,

e) one or more cationic components

besides possibly further cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

4. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is optically creamy or perlmu Warben.

5. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsifier content is 0.01 to 20 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.01 to 10 wt.% Is.

Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glyceryl ester is glyceryl stearate or its derivative, and the ratio of glyceryl ester to ethoxylated fatty acid ethoxylate and / or derivatives thereof in the preparations according to the invention 1: 10 to 10: 1, particularly preferably 1: 5 to 5: 1.

Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethoxylated and / or propoxylated fatty acid or alcohol has a degree of alkoxylation of from 0 to 150, particularly preferably from 20 to 60.

8. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant content is between 1 and 70 wt .-%, more preferably between 1 and 50 wt .-%.

9. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that are used as anionic, amphoteric and / or nonionic surfactants ethoxylated and sulfated fatty alcohols with 12 to 14 and / or Alkylamidopropylbetain.

10. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more lipids are selected from the group of ester oils, the carbonates, hydrocarbon-based oils, vegetable oils.

1 1. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cationic care components 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% is.

12. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains opacifiers and / or thickeners as further constituents.

13. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that additional surfactants and / or cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries, additives and / or active ingredients are included.

14. Emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity is between 1000 and 10000 Pa-s, measured with the Haake Viscotester VT 2 at 20 ° C.

15. Use of an emulsion according to one of the preceding claims for improving the gloss, the combability and the sensory properties of the hair.

16. A cosmetic preparation comprising an emulsion according to one of the preceding patent claims suitable for hair and for the body.