WO2007086593A1 - Stretch fabric - Google Patents

Stretch fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2007086593A1
WO2007086593A1 PCT/JP2007/051538 JP2007051538W WO2007086593A1 WO 2007086593 A1 WO2007086593 A1 WO 2007086593A1 JP 2007051538 W JP2007051538 W JP 2007051538W WO 2007086593 A1 WO2007086593 A1 WO 2007086593A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fiber
fibers
elastic
extractable
fabric
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2007/051538
Other languages
French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Tetsutaro Fumishi
Kingo Tanaka
Katsuhiko Yanagi
Takuya Suehiro
Original Assignee
Seiren Co., Ltd.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Seiren Co., Ltd. filed Critical Seiren Co., Ltd.
Priority to JP2007556050A priority Critical patent/JP5171268B2/en
Publication of WO2007086593A1 publication Critical patent/WO2007086593A1/en

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/35Heterocyclic compounds
    • D06M13/352Heterocyclic compounds having five-membered heterocyclic rings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/25Resistance to light or sun, i.e. protection of the textile itself as well as UV shielding materials or treatment compositions therefor; Anti-yellowing treatments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a stretchable fabric, and more particularly, to a stretchable fabric having at least two different stretchable elastic regions on the same fabric and having a color pattern expressed as necessary.
  • a method of applying stress to each required part a method of changing the weaving and knitting conditions such as changing the fineness and type of yarn used or changing the structure, a method of applying resin to a predetermined part, and a predetermined part being plucked And a method of laminating a tape-like material in a predetermined place.
  • the method of changing the weaving and knitting conditions makes it easy to obtain a stress difference and easy to control the stress, but changing the fineness of the yarn, the type of yarn, and changing the structure can make the appearance uncomfortable, and the feeling of wearing May get worse.
  • the method of applying the resin is a method of changing the stretchability of the fabric in the resin application region, and it is easy to control the stress freely in the fabric, but since the resin is applied, the texture of the fabric tends to become hard, and the feeling of wear May be worse. In addition, there is concern about durability due to a decrease in air permeability of the resin-applied part, resin breakage, cracking, peeling, etc. caused by repeated wearing or washing.
  • the method of laminating a fabric tape-like material employs adhesion, sewing, etc., so it is easy to obtain a stress difference, but this also makes the texture harder due to the adhesive resin, and the thickness of the pasted part increases. There is a risk that the feeling of wearing will be impaired.
  • the laminated fabric may be peeled off. In sewing, steps or irregularities occur in the sewing part, and it touches the skin surface. There are problems such as anxious.
  • An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and in particular, a stretchable part having a different elastic modulus that is excellent in breathability and durability without impairing the texture and wearing feeling. It is to provide a stretchable fabric comprising an extracted portion and a non-extracted portion that suppresses embrittlement of an elastic fiber.
  • a first aspect of the present invention is composed of an extractable non-elastic fiber, a non-extractable inelastic fiber, and an elastic fiber, and has an extracted portion and a non-extracted portion.
  • a stretchable fabric characterized by comprising a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, an elastic fiber comprising an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber, and a strength coefficient of the non-pumping inelastic fiber being 1700, 00 or more. It is.
  • the second aspect of the present invention is a polyurethane fiber having a strength maintenance rate of 60% or more after being immersed in a 6% strength aqueous caustic soda solution for 5 minutes at room temperature. 2.
  • the proportion of the constituent fibers before the discharge treatment is 30 to 55% for the cationic dyeable polyester fiber, 25 to 55% for the non-elastic fiber, and 10 to 4 for the polyurethane fiber.
  • the stretchable fabric according to the above or 2 which is 5%.
  • the stretchable fabric according to any one of 1 to 3 above, wherein the erosion strength of the extracted portion is 20 OKPa or more.
  • the present invention provides the stretchable fabric according to any one of the above 1 to 4, wherein the non-exhaustable inelastic fiber is a nylon fiber, and the elastic fiber is an ether polyurethane fiber.
  • the present invention provides the stretchable fabric according to any one of 1 to 5 above, to which an ultraviolet absorber is applied.
  • the seventh aspect of the present invention is the stretchable fabric according to the sixth aspect, wherein the application of the ultraviolet absorber is performed by post-processing of a benzotriazole ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure.
  • the stress retention rate of the extracted portion after irradiation with a strong bon-arc lamp for 40 hours is 90% or more, and the stress at the time of 30% elongation of the extracted portion is not extracted. It is 20 to 85% of the stress at the time of elongation of 30% of the etched portion, and the breaking strength of the neutral fiber in the removed portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the neutral fiber in the non-exhausted portion.
  • the stretchable fabric according to any one of 1 to 7 above. .—
  • the fabric having the extracted portion and the non-extracted portion according to the present invention suppresses a decrease in strength of non-elastic fibers and elastic fibers other than the extracted non-elastic fibers, and the predetermined portions are different in the stretched elasticity. It has a part and shows good stretchability over a long period of time.
  • the fabric of the present invention is composed of two or more kinds of non-elastic fibers including polyester-based fibers and alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber fibers, and a non-discharged portion and a non-exhaust portion where the polyester-based non-elastic fibers are selectively discharged.
  • a non-elastic fiber is a cationic dyeable polyester fiber
  • a non-extractable fiber is a non-extractable fiber. It is a stretchable fabric characterized by comprising fibers.
  • the alkali resistance of alkali-resistant polyurethane fibers can be confirmed by measuring the strength retention after immersion in a 6% strength aqueous caustic soda solution at room temperature (20 ° C) for 5 minutes. Preferably there is.
  • the non-weathering fiber used in the present invention two types are used, one that is not removed and one that is removed.
  • a cation-soluble polyester fiber is used as the inelastic fiber to be removed.
  • An atmospheric pressure type or high pressure type cationic dyeable polyester fiber is preferred, but an atmospheric pressure type cationic dyeable polyester fiber is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of excellent pitting resistance.
  • the non-elastic fibers that are not removed include natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers and polyamide fibers, or regenerated fibers such as rayon and semi-synthetic fibers such as cellulose acetate. Although not particularly limited, those having an intensity coefficient of 1 70, 0 0 0 or more are used. Usually, nylon fibers and polyethylene terephthalate fibers are preferably used. In particular, nylon fiber is preferable in terms of strength, durability and dyeing fastness.
  • an elastic fiber is used in combination with a plurality of types of non-elastic fibers having different pitting properties.
  • the strength-resistant polyurethane resinous fiber is used as the elastic fiber.
  • polyurethane fiber having a strength maintenance ratio of 60% or more after being immersed in caustic soda having a concentration of 6% at room temperature for 5 minutes in terms of resistance to corrosion.
  • Polyurethane fibers are preferred. If the strength retention rate of polyurethane after immersion in caustic soda is less than 60%, the necessary stress may not be obtained in the removed area.
  • the fabric used in the present invention has 30 to 55% cationic dyeable polyester fiber, 25 to 55% non-extractable inelastic fiber, and 10% wrinkle fiber before the discharge treatment. It is preferable that the composition is composed of ⁇ 30%. If the amount of the cationic dyeable polyester is less than 45%, the necessary stress may not be obtained in the non-exhausted area. If it exceeds 55%, the stress difference between the extracted area and the non-exhausted area is large. The wearing feeling may be impaired.
  • the proportion of non-elastic fiber fibers that are not removed is less than 25%, the required burst strength may not be obtained, and if it exceeds 55%, the stretchability may be impaired.
  • the ratio of the neutral fiber is less than 10%, the necessary stress may not be obtained. Yes, if it exceeds 45%, fastness such as washing fastness may not be secured during dyeing.
  • the strength coefficient of the non-exhaustable non-repellent fiber needs to be 1700, 00 or more, and if the strength coefficient is less than 1700, 00, the burst strength of the excised part is low. There is a risk that it will not be obtained sufficiently.
  • the burst strength of the removed portion is 20 O K Pa or more.
  • the elastic fiber and the two or more types of non-elastic fibers used in the present invention can be used in an appropriate yarn shape such as single, mixed spinning, mixed fiber, mixed twist, cross-twisted, and aligned yarn.
  • the fineness of the yarn is not particularly limited.
  • Examples of the form of the fabric include a knitted fabric and a woven fabric, but are not particularly limited.
  • the extracted part is mainly composed of elastic fibers and non-extractable inelastic fibers
  • the non-extracted part is composed of elastic fibers, extractable inelastic fibers and non-extractable inelastic fibers.
  • a part of the extractable inelastic fiber can also be left in the removed portion by weakening the removal treatment conditions.
  • the discharge treatment can be performed by discharging a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, which is a dischargeable non-wetting fiber, and applying an appropriate discharge processing agent that does not discharge other constituent fibers to the fabric. .
  • the removal processing agent examples include guanidine weak acid salts, phenols, alcohols, alkali metal hydroxides, and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, which are conventionally known removal processing agents.
  • concentration of the removal processing agent can be appropriately determined.
  • a quaternary ammonium salt can also be used as an extraction aid.
  • Inelastic elasticity that removes the material without affecting the other components by applying steaming heat treatment with steam for 1 to 30 minutes after applying the removal processing agent to the fabric.
  • the fiber can be discharged.
  • a method for applying the removal processing agent to the fabric at least one method selected from a dipping method, a pad-roll method, a calendar method, an ink jet printing method, a padding method, a textile printing method, a spray method and the like can be used.
  • a dipping method a pad-roll method, a calendar method, an ink jet printing method, a padding method, a textile printing method, a spray method and the like.
  • the liquid containing the removal processing agent can be uniformly applied to the portion to be removed.
  • ether-based polyurethane fiber spun in a state containing a phenolic antioxidant or an organic ultraviolet absorber as the elastic fiber.
  • a benzotriazole-based UV absorber as the organic UV absorber.
  • the phenolic antioxidant or the organic ultraviolet absorber only needs to be added before the spinning step of polyurethane, and can be added to the raw material to such an extent that it does not affect the polymerization reaction of the resin that becomes the fiber. Further, it can be blended after the polymerization of the resin to be fibers is completed, but it is preferably blended between the end of polymerization of the resin and before spinning.
  • the spinning apparatus and spinning conditions used for spinning are not particularly limited, and any known method can be selected depending on the resin composition, application, purpose, yarn physical properties, and the like.
  • a benzotriazol ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure by post-processing.
  • Benzotriazole-based UV absorbers that contain chlorine in the structure include 2— (2, —hydroxy—3′—t-butyl-5, 1-methylphenyl) —5—-clobenzobenzolazole, 2-— (2, -Hydroxy-1,3,5, -di-tert-butylphenyl) -15-clobenzobenzotriazole. Since the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine as described above is ionically bonded to the amino terminal group in the polyurethane fiber, embrittlement due to ultraviolet rays can be effectively suppressed.
  • UV absorbers other than benzotriazole-based UV absorbers containing chlorine are used in the structure, embrittlement of polyurethane fibers due to UV rays may not be sufficiently suppressed.
  • the application of the above benzotriazole-based UV absorber can be carried out in any step after the fabric is obtained.
  • the benzotriazole UV absorber is used together with the dye. It is preferable to give.
  • the benzotriazol ultraviolet absorber is preferably applied in an amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, particularly 3.0 to 8.0% by weight, based on the weight of the fabric. preferable.
  • the polyurethane fiber may not be embrittled by ultraviolet rays.
  • a benzotriazole UV absorber When the amount exceeds 20.0% by weight, the high stretchability of the polyurethane fiber tends to be inhibited, or even if the fabric is dyed, it tends to be difficult to express a clear hue. As described above, it is preferable to apply the organic UV absorber twice before spinning and after finishing after fabric production.
  • heat treatment is applied.
  • the benzotriazole UV absorber is adsorbed on the polyurethane fiber.
  • This heat treatment can be carried out in a finishing set process that is usually performed after dyeing.
  • the heat treatment is preferably performed at a temperature of 100 ° C. or higher for a period of several seconds to several minutes.
  • the stress retention after irradiation of the carbon arc lamp for 40 hours in the removed portion is 90% or more before irradiation of the carbon arc. If the stress retention rate is less than 90%, the removed portion may be torn during use or the stretchability may be reduced.
  • the stress at the time of 0% elongation of the extracted portion is preferably 20 to 85% of the stress at the time of 30% elongation of the non-extracted portion. If the stress ratio is less than 20%, it is difficult to obtain a feeling of tightening, and there is a possibility that recovery after stretching may not be sufficiently achieved, and effects such as improvement in motor functionality and body shape correction may not be obtained.
  • the stress ratio is greater than 85%, it is difficult to obtain a stress difference between the removed portion and the non-exposed portion, and the intended functional effect may not be obtained.
  • the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the pitting portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the non-pitting portion. If the rupture strength ratio is less than 90%, the removed portion may be torn at the time of wearing, or the stretchability may be lowered.
  • a pattern, a color, and the like may be added to an arbitrary region of the above-described discharged portion and the non-extracted portion.
  • the fabric was irradiated with ultraviolet rays by the carbon arc lamp method (63) according to J is L 0842-1988. Irradiate for 40 hours using a UV carbon arc lamp light resistance tester.
  • the stress retention was evaluated by the following method. Using an autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), prepare a sample with a width of 25 mm, a pulling length of 100 mm, and a chuck gripping length of 10 Omm, and a speed of 30 Omm / min. After extending to (long), remove the load and restore to the initial setting of 100 mm. Repeat this operation three times and read the load at 30% extension (30% extension stress) from the third SS curve.
  • T is defined as the untreated value of the third 30% elongation stress of the fabric of the removed portion before the light resistance test.
  • the polyurethane fiber to be used is immersed in a 6% aqueous solution of caustic soda at room temperature for 5 minutes and then air-dried.
  • the single yarn strength was calculated as 5CNZd t e X for Ny and 6 CNZd t e x for PET.
  • nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dte xZ26 f), pressure-dyeable cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. 56 dte xZ36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber (Toyobo ( Co., Ltd. ESPA T-1 71, single yarn fineness 44d t ex alkali resistance test 65%), warp knitted atlas structure 40.0% nylon fiber, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber 40.0 A composite fabric (thickness lmm) consisting of 1% by weight and 20.0% by weight of polyurethane fibers was used.
  • a treatment liquid comprising the following prescription 1 containing a quaternary ammonium salt is applied to the screen.
  • Stripe printing was performed using a lean printing machine, and then steaming was performed for 15 minutes in superheated steam at a temperature of 110 ° C to absorb the quaternary ammonium salt contained in the printing paste into the fabric.
  • washing with water at 30 ° C. for 10 minutes, and further washing with hot water at 60 ° C. for 10 minutes the printing paste adhering to the fiber fabric sheet surface remains.
  • the 4th grade ammonium salt was completely removed.
  • the treatment liquid having the following formulation 2 was administered by a padding method so as to be 2 gZm 2 in terms of solid content, and dried at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes to form an ink receiving layer. .
  • Tripol TK Diichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant
  • Regular polyester fiber manufactured by Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dte xZ26 f
  • atmospheric pressure dyeable type cationic dyeable polyester fiber manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 33 dtex / 36 f
  • ether yarn polyurethane fiber Regular polyester fiber 43.0% by weight, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber, with a warp knitted half structure consisting of ESPA T-1 71, manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., single yarn fineness 44 dte, anti-kali strength test 65%
  • a composite fabric (thickness lmm) consisting of 43.0 wt% and polyurethane fibers 14.0 wt% was processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the evaluation results.
  • Nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dtex / 26 f) From cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. 56 dtex / 36 f) and ether ester elastic yarn (Teijin Co., Ltd. Lexe, single yarn fineness 44 dte X Alkali strength retention 40%)
  • a composite fabric (thickness lmm) consisting of nylon fiber 40.0% by weight, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber 40.0% by weight, polyurethane fiber 20.0% by weight is used. It was.
  • a treatment liquid comprising Formula 1 containing a quaternary ammonium salt was printed in stripes using a screen printing machine and dried at a temperature of 110 for 2 minutes. Thereafter, steaming was performed for 15 minutes with superheated steam at a temperature of 110 to absorb the quaternary ammonium salt contained in the printing paste into the fabric. Next, washing with water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, followed by washing with hot water at 60 ° C for 10 minutes, the printing paste adhering to the fiber fabric sheet surface remains. Completely removed quaternary ammonium salt.
  • nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dte xZ26 f), atmospheric pressure-dyeable cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. 56 dte xZ36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber ( Made of Toyobo Co., Ltd. ESPA T-71, single yarn fineness 44d tex Alkali strength retention rate 65%), warp knitted atlas fabric, nylon fiber 20. 0% by weight, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber A composite fabric (thickness lmm) composed of 60.0% by weight and polyurethane fiber 20.0% by weight was used.
  • a treatment liquid consisting of Formula 1 containing quaternary ammonium salt is screened on the fabric surface. Using a lint machine, it was printed in stripes, and then steamed with superheated steam at a temperature of 110 ° C for 15 minutes to absorb the quaternary ammonium salt contained in the printing paste into the fabric. Next, 7K washing treatment is performed in water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, and further by washing with hot water for 10 minutes at 60 ° C, the printing paste adhering to the surface of the fiber fabric sheet remains. Completely removed 4th grade ammonium salt.
  • nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dtex / 26 f), atmospheric pressure dyeable cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 56 dte xZ36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber ( Made of Toyobo Co., Ltd. Espa T-71, single yarn fineness 44d t ex Alkali strength retention 65%), warp knitted atlas fabric, 30.0% nylon fiber, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber 4 5.0% by weight, the polyurethane fibers 25. from 0 wt% composite fabric (thickness lmm), formulation 2 consists of the treatment liquid with padding method to be 2 g / m 2 on a solid basis And dried at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes to form an ink receiving layer.
  • formulation 2 consists of the treatment liquid with padding method to be 2 g / m 2 on a solid basis And dried at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes to form an ink receiving layer.
  • the ink for pre-extraction of Formula 3 was printed in stripes on the fabric on which the ink receiving layer was formed, using an on-demand type serial scanning ink jet printing apparatus.
  • the fabric was subjected to wet heat treatment at 160 for 20 minutes using an HT steamer. Furthermore, after washing by treating for 10 minutes at 50 ° C in a soaping bath containing 2 g ZL of Tripol TK (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant) and 2 g / L of soda ash, It was washed with water and dried to obtain an extracted processed product.
  • Tripol TK Diichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant
  • the stretchable fabric of the present invention does not impair the texture and wearing feeling, is excellent in breathability and durability, and is suitable for use as clothes in sports and inner fields.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

A stretch fabric which is constituted of extractable non-elastic fibers, non-extractable non-elastic fibers, and elastic fibers and has an extractable part and a non-extractable part. The extractable non-elastic fibers comprise cationic-dyeable polyester fibers, and the elastic fibers comprise alkali-resistant polyurethane fibers. The non-extractable non-elastic fibers have a strength coefficient of 160,000 or higher.

Description

明 細 書  Specification
伸縮性布帛 Elastic fabric
技術分野 Technical field
本発明は、 伸縮性布帛に関し、 特に、 同一布帛上に少なくとも 2種の異なる伸縮 弾性領域を有し、 必要に応じて色柄表現が施された伸縮性布帛に関する。  The present invention relates to a stretchable fabric, and more particularly, to a stretchable fabric having at least two different stretchable elastic regions on the same fabric and having a color pattern expressed as necessary.
背景技術 Background art
近年、 様々な手法を用いた運動機能性向上、 疲労回復機能、 疲労軽減機能、 体型 補整、 または体型矯正などの機能を狙った高機能性布帛が開発されており、 様々な 分野で製品への展開が拡大してきている。 その 1つとしてポリウレタン繊維などの 弾性繊維を使用した高い伸縮性をもった布帛があり、 これらはスポーツやインナー 分野で用いられている。 これらの製品は着用時の不快感を軽減させ、 目的に応じ必 要な部位に必要な応力を与えた製品である。  In recent years, high-performance fabrics aimed at functions such as improvement of motor functionality, fatigue recovery function, fatigue reduction function, body shape correction, or body shape correction using various methods have been developed. Development is expanding. One of these is a highly stretchable fabric using elastic fibers such as polyurethane fibers, which are used in sports and inner fields. These products reduce discomfort when worn, and give the necessary stress to the necessary parts according to the purpose.
必要な部位毎に応力を出す手法として、 使用する糸の繊度や種類 変えたり組織 を変更するなどの織編条件を変化させる手法、 所定部分へ樹脂を付与する方法、 所 定部分を抜蝕加工する方法および布帛ゃテープ状物を所定場所に積層する方法など がある。  As a method of applying stress to each required part, a method of changing the weaving and knitting conditions such as changing the fineness and type of yarn used or changing the structure, a method of applying resin to a predetermined part, and a predetermined part being plucked And a method of laminating a tape-like material in a predetermined place.
織編条件を変化させる方法は、 応力差は得られやすく、 応力もコントロールし易 いが、 糸の繊度や糸種を変えたり組織を変えることで、 見た目に違和感ができるお それや、 着用感が悪くなるおそれがある。  The method of changing the weaving and knitting conditions makes it easy to obtain a stress difference and easy to control the stress, but changing the fineness of the yarn, the type of yarn, and changing the structure can make the appearance uncomfortable, and the feeling of wearing May get worse.
樹脂を付与する方法は樹脂付与領域における布帛の伸縮性を変化させる方法であ り、 布帛内で自在に応力をコントロールし易いが、 樹脂を付与するため布帛の風合 が硬くなり易く、 着用感は悪くなるおそれがある。 また樹脂付与部の通気性低下、 繰返し着用時もしくは洗濯による樹脂破壌、 割れ、 剥がれ等が生じ耐久性が懸念さ れる。  The method of applying the resin is a method of changing the stretchability of the fabric in the resin application region, and it is easy to control the stress freely in the fabric, but since the resin is applied, the texture of the fabric tends to become hard, and the feeling of wear May be worse. In addition, there is concern about durability due to a decrease in air permeability of the resin-applied part, resin breakage, cracking, peeling, etc. caused by repeated wearing or washing.
布帛ゃテープ状物を積層する方法は接着、 縫製等の方法を採用するため応力差は 得られ易いが、 これも接着剤樹脂により風合が硬くなつたり、 貼付けた部分の厚み が増大することで着用感が損なわれるおそれがある。 また、 積層した布帛などが剥 離するおそれもある。 縫製においては縫製部に段差や凹凸が生じ、 肌面へのあたり が気になるなどの問題がある。 The method of laminating a fabric tape-like material employs adhesion, sewing, etc., so it is easy to obtain a stress difference, but this also makes the texture harder due to the adhesive resin, and the thickness of the pasted part increases. There is a risk that the feeling of wearing will be impaired. In addition, the laminated fabric may be peeled off. In sewing, steps or irregularities occur in the sewing part, and it touches the skin surface. There are problems such as anxious.
また、 抜蝕加工方法についても多くの技術が開示されてきた。 例えば、 特開平 2 - 9 1 2 8 8号公報および特開平 3— 8 6 7号公報には、 繊維脆化剤としてアミン 類 (トリエタノールアミン等) にて処理した繊維布帛シートを更にアルカリ処理す ることによって、 変性ポリエステル繊維をアル力リ加水分解させる抜蝕方法が提案 されている。 しかしながら、 繊維脆化剤としてアミン類を用いる上記の方法は、 変 性ポリエステル繊維以外の残存させるべき繊維も脆化させてしまい、 強度を低下さ せるため使用できる繊維の種類に制限があった。  In addition, many techniques have been disclosed for the removal processing method. For example, in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 2-9 1 2 8 8 and 3 8 6 7, a fiber fabric sheet treated with an amine (such as triethanolamine) as a fiber embrittlement agent is further alkali-treated. Thus, there has been proposed a method of discharging which makes the modified polyester fiber hydrolyze. However, the above method using amines as a fiber embrittlement agent also causes the fibers to remain other than the modified polyester fiber to be embrittled, and the strength of the fibers is reduced, so that the types of fibers that can be used are limited.
更に、 抜蝕加工を行った場合、 抜蝕部は弾性繊維が布帛の表面に露出しやすくな る。 このため太陽光等の紫外線に布帛が暴露されると弾性繊維が脆化して伸縮性の 低下を起こすという問題があった。  In addition, when the removal process is performed, elastic fibers are easily exposed on the surface of the fabric in the removed part. Therefore, when the fabric is exposed to ultraviolet rays such as sunlight, there is a problem that the elastic fiber becomes brittle and the stretchability is lowered.
発明の開示 Disclosure of the invention
発明の目的  Object of the invention
本発明の目的は、 上記従来技術の問題点を解決することにあり、 特に、 風合や、 着用感を損なわず、 また、 通気性や耐久性に優れた、 異なる弾性率を有する伸縮部 を有する伸縮性布帛を提供することであり、 特には、 弾性繊維の脆化を抑えた、 抜 蝕部と非抜蝕部からなる伸縮性布帛を提供することにある。  An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and in particular, a stretchable part having a different elastic modulus that is excellent in breathability and durability without impairing the texture and wearing feeling. It is to provide a stretchable fabric comprising an extracted portion and a non-extracted portion that suppresses embrittlement of an elastic fiber.
発明の要約 Summary of invention
本発明は、 第 1に、 抜蝕性非弾性繊維、 非抜蝕性非弾性繊維および弾性繊維によ つて構成され、 抜蝕部と非抜蝕部とをもち、 抜蝕性非弾性繊維がカチオン可染性ポ リエステル繊維からなり、 弾性繊維が耐アルカリ性ポリウレタン繊維からなり、 非 抜蝕性非弾性繊維の強度係数が 1 7 0, 0 0 0以上であることを、 特徴とする伸縮 性布帛である。  A first aspect of the present invention is composed of an extractable non-elastic fiber, a non-extractable inelastic fiber, and an elastic fiber, and has an extracted portion and a non-extracted portion. A stretchable fabric characterized by comprising a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, an elastic fiber comprising an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber, and a strength coefficient of the non-pumping inelastic fiber being 1700, 00 or more. It is.
本発明は、 第 2に、 ポリウレタン繊維が 6 %濃度の苛性ソーダ水溶液に常温で 5 分間浸漬後の強度維持率が 6 0 %以上でのポリウレタン繊維である。 上記 1記載の 伸縮性布帛である。  The second aspect of the present invention is a polyurethane fiber having a strength maintenance rate of 60% or more after being immersed in a 6% strength aqueous caustic soda solution for 5 minutes at room temperature. 2. The stretchable fabric according to 1 above.
本発明は、 第 3に、 抜蝕処理前の構成繊維の割合がカチオン可染性ポリエステル 繊維が 3 0〜 5 5 %、 非弾性繊維が 2 5〜5 5 %、 ポリウレタン繊維が 1 0〜 4 5 %である上記または 2記載の伸縮性布帛である。 Thirdly, according to the present invention, the proportion of the constituent fibers before the discharge treatment is 30 to 55% for the cationic dyeable polyester fiber, 25 to 55% for the non-elastic fiber, and 10 to 4 for the polyurethane fiber. The stretchable fabric according to the above or 2 which is 5%.
本発明は、 第 4に、 抜蝕部の破裂強度が 2 0 O K P a以上である上記 1〜3のい ずれかに記載の伸縮性布帛である。  Fourthly, the stretchable fabric according to any one of 1 to 3 above, wherein the erosion strength of the extracted portion is 20 OKPa or more.
本発明は、 第 5に、 非抜蝕性非弾性繊維がナイロン繊維であり、 弾性繊維がエー テル系ポリウレタン繊維である上記 1〜4のいずれかに記載の伸縮性布帛である。 本発明は、 第 6に、 紫外線吸収剤が付与されている上記 1〜5のいずれかに記載 の伸縮性布帛である。  Fifth, the present invention provides the stretchable fabric according to any one of the above 1 to 4, wherein the non-exhaustable inelastic fiber is a nylon fiber, and the elastic fiber is an ether polyurethane fiber. Sixthly, the present invention provides the stretchable fabric according to any one of 1 to 5 above, to which an ultraviolet absorber is applied.
本発明は、 第 7に、 紫外線吸収剤の付与が構造中に塩素を含むベンゾトリアゾー ル系紫外線吸収剤の後加工による付与である上記 6記載の伸縮性布帛である。 本発明は、 第 8に、 力一ボンアーク灯光を 4 0時間照射した後の抜蝕部の応力保 持率が 9 0 %以上であり、 抜蝕部の 3 0 %伸長時の応力が非抜蝕部の 3 0 %伸長時 の応力の 2 0〜 8 5 %であり、 且つ、 抜蝕部の弹性繊維の破断強度が非抜蝕部の弹 性繊維の破断強度の 9 0 %以上である上記 1〜 7のいずれかに記載の伸縮性布帛で ある。 .—  The seventh aspect of the present invention is the stretchable fabric according to the sixth aspect, wherein the application of the ultraviolet absorber is performed by post-processing of a benzotriazole ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure. Eighthly, according to the present invention, the stress retention rate of the extracted portion after irradiation with a strong bon-arc lamp for 40 hours is 90% or more, and the stress at the time of 30% elongation of the extracted portion is not extracted. It is 20 to 85% of the stress at the time of elongation of 30% of the etched portion, and the breaking strength of the neutral fiber in the removed portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the neutral fiber in the non-exhausted portion. The stretchable fabric according to any one of 1 to 7 above. .—
発明の効果 The invention's effect
本発明の抜蝕部と非抜蝕部とをもつ布帛は、 抜蝕した非弾性繊維以外の非弹性繊 維や弾性繊維の強度低下を抑え、 所定の部分の抜蝕された伸縮性の異なる部分を有 し、 長期間に亘つて良好な伸縮性を示す。  The fabric having the extracted portion and the non-extracted portion according to the present invention suppresses a decrease in strength of non-elastic fibers and elastic fibers other than the extracted non-elastic fibers, and the predetermined portions are different in the stretched elasticity. It has a part and shows good stretchability over a long period of time.
発明の実施の形態 BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
本発明の布帛は、 ポリエステル系繊維を含む 2種以上の非弾性繊維と耐アルカリ 性ポリウレタン繊維繊維で構成され、 ポリエステル系非弾性繊維が選択的に抜蝕さ れた抜蝕部と非抜蝕部とが形成された布帛であり、 好ましくは、 非弾性繊維が抜蝕 性繊維であるカチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維と非抜蝕性繊維であるナイ口ン繊維 からなり、 弹性繊維がエーテル系ポリウレタン繊維からなることを特徴とする伸縮 性布帛である。  The fabric of the present invention is composed of two or more kinds of non-elastic fibers including polyester-based fibers and alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber fibers, and a non-discharged portion and a non-exhaust portion where the polyester-based non-elastic fibers are selectively discharged. A non-elastic fiber is a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, and a non-extractable fiber is a non-extractable fiber. It is a stretchable fabric characterized by comprising fibers.
耐ァルカリ性ポリゥレタン繊維の耐ァルカリ性は、 6 %濃度の苛性ソーダ水溶液 に常温 (2 0 °C) で 5分間浸漬後の強度保持率を測定することで確認でき、 その値 が 6 0 %以上であることが好ましい。 本発明において用いられる非弹性繊維としては、 抜蝕されないものと抜蝕される ものの 2種類を用いる。 The alkali resistance of alkali-resistant polyurethane fibers can be confirmed by measuring the strength retention after immersion in a 6% strength aqueous caustic soda solution at room temperature (20 ° C) for 5 minutes. Preferably there is. As the non-weathering fiber used in the present invention, two types are used, one that is not removed and one that is removed.
本発明では抜蝕される非弾性繊維としてはカチオン可溶性ポリエステル系繊維が 用いられる。 常圧タイプまたは高圧タイプのカチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維が好 ましいが、 抜蝕性に優れる点で、 常圧タイプのカチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維が 特に好ましい。  In the present invention, a cation-soluble polyester fiber is used as the inelastic fiber to be removed. An atmospheric pressure type or high pressure type cationic dyeable polyester fiber is preferred, but an atmospheric pressure type cationic dyeable polyester fiber is particularly preferred from the viewpoint of excellent pitting resistance.
抜蝕されない非弾性繊維としては、 綿や麻等の天然繊維、 ポリエステル繊維ゃポ リアミド繊維等の合成繊維、 またはレーヨンなどの再生繊維やセルロースァセテ一 ト等の半合成繊維のいずれであっても良く、 特に限定されないが、 強度係数が 1 7 0, 0 0 0以上であるものが用いられる。 通常は、 ナイロン繊維やポリエチレンテ レフタレート繊維が好ましく用いられる。 特に、 強度、 耐久性や染色堅牢度の点で ナイロン繊維が好ましい。  The non-elastic fibers that are not removed include natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers and polyamide fibers, or regenerated fibers such as rayon and semi-synthetic fibers such as cellulose acetate. Although not particularly limited, those having an intensity coefficient of 1 70, 0 0 0 or more are used. Usually, nylon fibers and polyethylene terephthalate fibers are preferably used. In particular, nylon fiber is preferable in terms of strength, durability and dyeing fastness.
本発明では上記の抜蝕性の異なる複数種の非弾性繊維と組合せて弾性繊維を用い るが、 弹性繊維としては上記したように耐アル力リ性ポリゥレ夕ン弹性繊維が用い られる。  In the present invention, an elastic fiber is used in combination with a plurality of types of non-elastic fibers having different pitting properties. As described above, the strength-resistant polyurethane resinous fiber is used as the elastic fiber.
具体的には、 耐抜蝕性の点で、 6 %濃度の苛性ソーダに常温で 5分間浸漬後の強 度維持率が 6 0 %以上であるポリウレタン繊維を用いることが好ましく、 特に、 ェ 一テル系ポリゥレタン繊維が好ましい。 苛性ソーダ浸漬後のポリゥレタンの強度保 持率が 6 0 %未満であると抜蝕部に必要な応力が得られないおそれがある。  Specifically, it is preferable to use a polyurethane fiber having a strength maintenance ratio of 60% or more after being immersed in caustic soda having a concentration of 6% at room temperature for 5 minutes in terms of resistance to corrosion. Polyurethane fibers are preferred. If the strength retention rate of polyurethane after immersion in caustic soda is less than 60%, the necessary stress may not be obtained in the removed area.
また、 本発明で用いる布帛は、 抜蝕処理前において、 カチオン可染性ポリエステ ル繊維が 3 0〜 5 5 %、 非抜蝕性非弾性繊維が 2 5〜 5 5 %、 弹性繊維が 1 0〜 3 0 %の割合で構成されていることが好ましい。 カチォン可染性ポリエステルが 4 5 %未満であると非抜蝕部に必要な応力が得られないおそれがあり、 5 5 %より多 くなると、 抜蝕部と非抜蝕部の応力差が大きくなり着用感が損なわれるおそれがあ る。  In addition, the fabric used in the present invention has 30 to 55% cationic dyeable polyester fiber, 25 to 55% non-extractable inelastic fiber, and 10% wrinkle fiber before the discharge treatment. It is preferable that the composition is composed of ˜30%. If the amount of the cationic dyeable polyester is less than 45%, the necessary stress may not be obtained in the non-exhausted area. If it exceeds 55%, the stress difference between the extracted area and the non-exhausted area is large. The wearing feeling may be impaired.
また、 抜蝕されない非弾性繊維繊維の割合が 2 5 %未満であると必要な破裂強度が 得られないおそれがあり、 5 5 %より多くなると伸縮性が損なわれるおそれがある。 また、 弹性繊維の割合が、 1 0 %未満であると必要な応力が得られないおそれが あり、 4 5 %を超えると染色加工時に洗濯堅牢度等の堅牢度が確保できないおそれ がある。 Further, if the proportion of non-elastic fiber fibers that are not removed is less than 25%, the required burst strength may not be obtained, and if it exceeds 55%, the stretchability may be impaired. In addition, if the ratio of the neutral fiber is less than 10%, the necessary stress may not be obtained. Yes, if it exceeds 45%, fastness such as washing fastness may not be secured during dyeing.
また、 非抜蝕性非弹性繊維の強度係数は 1 7 0, 0 0 0以上であることが必要で あり、 強度係数が 1 7 0, 0 0 0未満であると抜蝕部の破裂強度が十分得られない おそれがある。  In addition, the strength coefficient of the non-exhaustable non-repellent fiber needs to be 1700, 00 or more, and if the strength coefficient is less than 1700, 00, the burst strength of the excised part is low. There is a risk that it will not be obtained sufficiently.
更に、 抜蝕部の破裂強度は 2 0 O K P a以上であることが好ましい。  Furthermore, it is preferable that the burst strength of the removed portion is 20 O K Pa or more.
本発明で使用される弾性繊維と 2種以上の非弾性繊維は、 それぞれ単独、 混紡、 混繊、 合撚、 交撚、 引き揃え糸等の適宜の糸形状で用いることができる。 糸の繊度 は、 特に限定されない。  The elastic fiber and the two or more types of non-elastic fibers used in the present invention can be used in an appropriate yarn shape such as single, mixed spinning, mixed fiber, mixed twist, cross-twisted, and aligned yarn. The fineness of the yarn is not particularly limited.
布帛の形態は、 編物、 織物などが挙げられるが、 特に限定されない。  Examples of the form of the fabric include a knitted fabric and a woven fabric, but are not particularly limited.
上述のような構成により得られた布帛に抜蝕処理を行うことにより、 抜蝕部と非 抜蝕部とが形成された布帛が得られる。 抜蝕部は主に弾性繊維と非抜蝕性非弾性繊 維からなり、 非抜蝕部は、 弾性繊維と抜蝕性非弾性繊維と非抜蝕性非弾性繊維から 構成される。 但し、 抜蝕部においても、 抜蝕の処理条件を弱くすることにより、 抜 蝕性非弾性繊維の一部を残すこともできる。  By performing a discharge treatment on the fabric obtained by the above-described configuration, a fabric in which a discharge portion and a non-discharge portion are formed is obtained. The extracted part is mainly composed of elastic fibers and non-extractable inelastic fibers, and the non-extracted part is composed of elastic fibers, extractable inelastic fibers and non-extractable inelastic fibers. However, a part of the extractable inelastic fiber can also be left in the removed portion by weakening the removal treatment conditions.
抜蝕処理は、 抜蝕性非弹性繊維であるカチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維を抜蝕し、 他の構成繊維を抜蝕しない適宜の抜蝕加工剤を布帛に付与することによって行うこ とができる。  The discharge treatment can be performed by discharging a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, which is a dischargeable non-wetting fiber, and applying an appropriate discharge processing agent that does not discharge other constituent fibers to the fabric. .
抜蝕加工剤としては、 従来から知られた抜蝕加工剤であるグァニジン弱酸塩、 フ エノ一ル類、 アルコール類、 アルカリ金属水酸化物、 アルカリ土類金属水酸化物な どが挙げられる。 抜蝕加工剤の濃度は適宜決めることができる。 また、 抜蝕助剤と して第 4級アンモニゥム塩を用いることもできる。 抜蝕加工剤を布帛に付与した後 8 0〜1 7 0 で加熱蒸気にて 1〜3 0分蒸熱処理を行うことで他の成分にほとん ど影響を与えることなく抜蝕すベき非弾性繊維を抜蝕することができる。  Examples of the removal processing agent include guanidine weak acid salts, phenols, alcohols, alkali metal hydroxides, and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, which are conventionally known removal processing agents. The concentration of the removal processing agent can be appropriately determined. A quaternary ammonium salt can also be used as an extraction aid. Inelastic elasticity that removes the material without affecting the other components by applying steaming heat treatment with steam for 1 to 30 minutes after applying the removal processing agent to the fabric. The fiber can be discharged.
布帛への抜蝕加工剤の付与方法としては、 浸漬法、 パッド ·ロール法、 カレンダ 一法、 インクジェットプリント法、 パッデイング法、 捺染法、 スプレー法などから 選ばれる少なくとも 1つの方法を用いることができ、 抜蝕加工剤含有液が抜蝕した い部分に均一に付与できれば特に限定されない。 本発明では、 用いる繊維内部に、 更には後加工により抜蝕部と非抜蝕部をもつ伸 縮性布帛に、 紫外線吸収剤を付与することが好ましい。 As a method for applying the removal processing agent to the fabric, at least one method selected from a dipping method, a pad-roll method, a calendar method, an ink jet printing method, a padding method, a textile printing method, a spray method and the like can be used. There is no particular limitation as long as the liquid containing the removal processing agent can be uniformly applied to the portion to be removed. In the present invention, it is preferable to apply an ultraviolet absorber to a stretchable fabric having a removed portion and a non-extracted portion by post-processing inside the fiber to be used.
特に、 弾性繊維として、 フエノール系酸化防止剤、 または有機系紫外線吸収剤を 含んだ状態にて紡糸されたエーテル系ポリウレタン繊維を用いることが好ましい。 更には有機系紫外線吸収剤としてべンゾトリァゾール系紫外線吸収剤を使用するこ とが好ましい。 フエノール系酸化防止剤、 または有機系紫外線吸収剤はポリウレタ ンの紡糸工程までに添加できればよく、 繊維となる樹脂の重合反応に影響を及ぼさ ない程度に原料に配合しておくこともできる。 更に、 繊維となる樹脂の重合が完結 した後に配合することもできるが、 樹脂の重合終了後から紡糸前までの間に配合す ることが好ましい。 紡糸の際に使用する紡糸装置や紡糸条件は、 特に限定されるも のではなく、 樹脂の組成、 用途、 目的、 糸物性などによって公知の任意の方法を選 択することができる。  In particular, it is preferable to use ether-based polyurethane fiber spun in a state containing a phenolic antioxidant or an organic ultraviolet absorber as the elastic fiber. Furthermore, it is preferable to use a benzotriazole-based UV absorber as the organic UV absorber. The phenolic antioxidant or the organic ultraviolet absorber only needs to be added before the spinning step of polyurethane, and can be added to the raw material to such an extent that it does not affect the polymerization reaction of the resin that becomes the fiber. Further, it can be blended after the polymerization of the resin to be fibers is completed, but it is preferably blended between the end of polymerization of the resin and before spinning. The spinning apparatus and spinning conditions used for spinning are not particularly limited, and any known method can be selected depending on the resin composition, application, purpose, yarn physical properties, and the like.
また、 構造中に塩素を含むベンゾトリアゾ一ル系紫外線吸収剤を後加工で付与す ることが好ましい。 構造中に塩素を含むベンゾトリァゾール系紫外線吸収剤として は、 2— ( 2, —ヒドロキシ— 3 ' — t—ブチルー 5, 一メチルフエニル) —5— クロ口べンゾトリァゾ一ル、 2— ( 2, —ヒドロキシ一 3,, 5, ージ— t—プチ ルフエニル) 一 5—クロ口べンゾトリアゾールなどが挙げられる。 上記のような塩 素を含むベンゾトリアゾール系紫外線吸収剤は、 ポリウレタン繊維中のアミノ末端 基とイオン結合するため、 紫外線による脆化を効果的に抑制することができる。 構 造中に塩素を含むベンゾトリアゾール系紫外線吸収剤以外の紫外線吸収剤を使用す ると、 紫外線によるポリウレタン繊維の脆化を十分に抑制できないおそれがある。 上記のベンゾトリアゾール系紫外線吸収剤の付与は、 布帛を得た後、 任意の工程 で行うことができるが、 特に、 布帛を染色加工する際に、 染料と共にべンゾトリア ゾ一ル系紫外線吸収剤を付与することが好ましい。 その際、 ベンゾトリアゾ一ル系 紫外線吸収剤は、 布帛重量に対して、 0 . 1〜2 0 . 0重量%付与するのが好まし く、 特に 3 . 0〜8 . 0重量%付与するのが好ましい。 ベンゾトリアゾール系紫外 線吸収剤の付与量が 0 . 1重量%未満であると、 紫外線によるポリウレタン繊維の 脆化を防止できないおそれがある。 また、 ベンゾトリアゾール系紫外線吸収剤の付 与量が 2 0 . 0重量%を超えると、 ポリウレタン繊維の高伸縮性が阻害されやすく なったり、 或いは布帛を染色しても鮮明な色相を発現しにくくなる傾向が生じる。 上述のように、 有機系紫外線吸収剤を紡糸前と製布後の後加工の 2度付与するこ とが好ましい。 Further, it is preferable to add a benzotriazol ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure by post-processing. Benzotriazole-based UV absorbers that contain chlorine in the structure include 2— (2, —hydroxy—3′—t-butyl-5, 1-methylphenyl) —5—-clobenzobenzolazole, 2-— (2, -Hydroxy-1,3,5, -di-tert-butylphenyl) -15-clobenzobenzotriazole. Since the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine as described above is ionically bonded to the amino terminal group in the polyurethane fiber, embrittlement due to ultraviolet rays can be effectively suppressed. If UV absorbers other than benzotriazole-based UV absorbers containing chlorine are used in the structure, embrittlement of polyurethane fibers due to UV rays may not be sufficiently suppressed. The application of the above benzotriazole-based UV absorber can be carried out in any step after the fabric is obtained. In particular, when dyeing the fabric, the benzotriazole UV absorber is used together with the dye. It is preferable to give. At that time, the benzotriazol ultraviolet absorber is preferably applied in an amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, particularly 3.0 to 8.0% by weight, based on the weight of the fabric. preferable. If the application amount of the benzotriazole ultraviolet absorber is less than 0.1% by weight, the polyurethane fiber may not be embrittled by ultraviolet rays. In addition, a benzotriazole UV absorber When the amount exceeds 20.0% by weight, the high stretchability of the polyurethane fiber tends to be inhibited, or even if the fabric is dyed, it tends to be difficult to express a clear hue. As described above, it is preferable to apply the organic UV absorber twice before spinning and after finishing after fabric production.
上記の布帛にべンゾトリアゾール系紫外線吸収剤を付与した後、 熱処理を施す。 熱処理を施すことにより、 ベンゾトリァゾ一ル系紫外線吸収剤はポリウレタン繊維 に吸着される。 この熱処理は、 染色加工後において通常行われる仕上セットの工程 で行うことができる。 熱処理条件は 1 0 0 °C以上の温度で数秒〜数分程度の時間行 うことが好ましい。  After applying a benzotriazole UV absorber to the above fabric, heat treatment is applied. By the heat treatment, the benzotriazole UV absorber is adsorbed on the polyurethane fiber. This heat treatment can be carried out in a finishing set process that is usually performed after dyeing. The heat treatment is preferably performed at a temperature of 100 ° C. or higher for a period of several seconds to several minutes.
本発明の伸縮性布帛は抜蝕部におけるカーボンアーク灯の 4 0時間照射後の応力 保持率がカーボンアーク照射前の 9 0 %以上であることが好ましい。 応力保持率が 9 0 %未満であると、 着用時に抜蝕部が破れたり、 伸縮性低下を起こし易くなるお それがある。  In the stretchable fabric of the present invention, it is preferable that the stress retention after irradiation of the carbon arc lamp for 40 hours in the removed portion is 90% or more before irradiation of the carbon arc. If the stress retention rate is less than 90%, the removed portion may be torn during use or the stretchability may be reduced.
また、 抜蝕部の 0 %伸長時の応力は非抜蝕部の 3 0 %伸長時の応力の 2 0〜 8 5 %が好ましい。 応力比が 2 0 %未満であると締め付け感が得られにくく、 伸長後 の回復が十分になされていないおそれがあり、 運動機能性向上、 体型補正などの効 果が得られないおそれがある。  The stress at the time of 0% elongation of the extracted portion is preferably 20 to 85% of the stress at the time of 30% elongation of the non-extracted portion. If the stress ratio is less than 20%, it is difficult to obtain a feeling of tightening, and there is a possibility that recovery after stretching may not be sufficiently achieved, and effects such as improvement in motor functionality and body shape correction may not be obtained.
応力比が 8 5 %より大きくなると抜蝕部と非抜蝕部の応力差が得られにくく、 意 図する機能効果が得られなくなるおそれがある。  If the stress ratio is greater than 85%, it is difficult to obtain a stress difference between the removed portion and the non-exposed portion, and the intended functional effect may not be obtained.
また、 抜蝕部の弾性繊維の破断強度が非抜蝕部の弾性繊維の破断強度の 9 0 %以 上であることが好ましい。 破断強度比が 9 0 %未満であると着用時に抜蝕部が破れ たり、 伸縮性低下を起こし易くなるおそれがある。  In addition, it is preferable that the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the pitting portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the non-pitting portion. If the rupture strength ratio is less than 90%, the removed portion may be torn at the time of wearing, or the stretchability may be lowered.
これらの特性は上記した非処理布帛と抜蝕処理と紫外線吸収剤の組合せにより容 易に達成することができる。  These characteristics can be easily achieved by a combination of the above-mentioned non-treated fabric, a discharge treatment and an ultraviolet absorber.
本発明の伸縮性布帛は、 上記抜蝕部、 非抜蝕部の任意の領域に柄および色等が付 されたものとすることもできる。  In the stretchable fabric of the present invention, a pattern, a color, and the like may be added to an arbitrary region of the above-described discharged portion and the non-extracted portion.
実施例 Example
以下、 本発明の実施例を比較例と共にあげ、 本発明を具体的に説明するが、 本発 明は以下の実施例によって限定されるものではない。 なお、 実施例、 比較例中の 「%」 は、 「重量%」 を表わす。 Hereinafter, examples of the present invention will be described together with comparative examples to specifically explain the present invention. The description is not limited by the following examples. “%” In Examples and Comparative Examples represents “% by weight”.
また、 実施例中の特性値の測定法を以下に示す。 いずれも、 断りのない限り、 2 0t、 65 %RH雰囲気下で測定した。  Moreover, the measuring method of the characteristic value in an Example is shown below. All were measured in a 20 t, 65% RH atmosphere unless otherwise noted.
(抜蝕部の非抜蝕部に対する応力比率)  (Stress ratio of the removed part to the unexposed part)
オートグラフ (株式会社島津製作所製) を用い、 幅 25mm、 引張り長さ 100 mm、 チャック掴み代長 100mmの試料を準備し、 300 mmZm i nの速度で 180mm (80 %伸長) まで伸ばした後、 荷重を取り去り初期設定の 100mm まで回復させる。 この動作を 3回繰り返し 3回目の S S力一ブより 30%伸長時の 荷重 (30%伸張力) を読み取り、 応力値とした。 非抜蝕部の応力値を S。、 抜蝕 部の応力値を S!として下記式 1より算出した。 応力比率 (%) = Si ÷ S0 X 100 (1) Using an autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), prepare a sample with a width of 25 mm, a tensile length of 100 mm, and a chuck gripping length of 100 mm, and after extending it to 180 mm (80% elongation) at a speed of 300 mmZmin, load Remove to remove the initial setting of 100mm. This operation was repeated three times, and the load at 30% extension (30% extension force) was read from the third SS force, and used as the stress value. The stress value of the non-exhausted part is S. The stress value of the excised part is S! Was calculated from the following formula 1. Stress ratio (%) = Si ÷ S 0 X 100 (1)
(抜蝕部の弾性繊維と非抜蝕部の弾性繊維の破断強度比) (Break strength ratio between elastic fibers in the extracted part and elastic fibers in the non-extracted part)
オートグラフ (株式会社島津製作所製) を使用して 20°C、 65%RH雰囲気下 で、 引張り長さ 100mm、 チャック掴み代長 100mmの弹性繊維を準備し、 3 0 Omm/m i nの速度で伸長し破断させ破断時の強力を測定する。 非抜蝕部の生 地から採取した弾性繊維での破断時の強度を A。とし、 抜蝕部の生地から採取した 弾性繊維の破断時の強度を A iとする。 破断強度比率は以下の式 2に従って算出す る。 破断強度比率 (%) = A ÷ A。 X 100 (2) (紫外線照射後の応力保持率)  Using an autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), prepare an elastic fiber with a pulling length of 100 mm and chuck grip length of 100 mm in an atmosphere of 20 ° C and 65% RH, and stretch at a speed of 30 Omm / min. And break and measure the strength at break. A. The strength at break of elastic fiber taken from the non-excavated site. Let A i be the strength at the time of breakage of the elastic fiber collected from the material of the excised part. The fracture strength ratio is calculated according to Equation 2 below. Breaking strength ratio (%) = A ÷ A. X 100 (2) (Stress retention after UV irradiation)
布帛への紫外線照射は、 J i s L 0842- 1988に従い、 カーボンアーク 灯法 (63 ) により実施した。 紫外線カーボンアーク灯式耐光性試験機を用い 4 0時間照射する。 次に応力保持率は以下の方法で評価した。 オートグラフ (株式会 社島津製作所製) を使用して幅 25mm、 引張り長さ 100mm、 チャック掴み代 長 10 Ommの試料を準備し、 30 Omm/m i nの速度で 18 Omm (80 %伸 長) まで伸ばした後、 荷重を取り去り初期設定の 100mmまで回復させる。 この 動作を 3回繰り返し 3回目の S Sカーブより 30 %伸長時の荷重 (30 %伸張応 力) を読み取る。 The fabric was irradiated with ultraviolet rays by the carbon arc lamp method (63) according to J is L 0842-1988. Irradiate for 40 hours using a UV carbon arc lamp light resistance tester. Next, the stress retention was evaluated by the following method. Using an autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), prepare a sample with a width of 25 mm, a pulling length of 100 mm, and a chuck gripping length of 10 Omm, and a speed of 30 Omm / min. After extending to (long), remove the load and restore to the initial setting of 100 mm. Repeat this operation three times and read the load at 30% extension (30% extension stress) from the third SS curve.
前記耐光試験を施す前の抜蝕部の布帛の 3回目の 30 %伸長応力を未処理の値と し T。とし、 耐光試験を施した後の抜蝕部の布帛の 3回目の 30 %伸長応力を T ^ 応力保持率は以下の式 3のように計算する。 応力保持率 (%) = T ÷ TQ X 100 (3) T is defined as the untreated value of the third 30% elongation stress of the fabric of the removed portion before the light resistance test. The T ^ stress retention is calculated as shown in Equation 3 below for the third 30% elongation stress of the fabric in the removed area after the light resistance test. Stress retention (%) = T ÷ T Q X 100 (3)
(ポリウレタン繊維の耐ァルカリ性評価試験) (Evaluation test for resistance to polyurethane fibers)
使用するポリウレタン繊維を、 6 %濃度の苛性ソーダ水溶液に常温で 5分間浸漬 後自然乾燥させ、 該ウレタン繊維を 50%伸長させた状態で 160°Cで 10分間湿 熱処理をした後、 40°Cのお湯で洗浄した後自然乾燥させた。 その後、 オートダラ フ (株式会社島津製作所製 引張強度試験機) にて引張破断強度を n= 5で測定し た。 未処理のポリゥレタン繊維との破断強度比率を算出した。  The polyurethane fiber to be used is immersed in a 6% aqueous solution of caustic soda at room temperature for 5 minutes and then air-dried. The urethane fiber is wet-heated at 160 ° C for 10 minutes with 50% stretched, and then heated to 40 ° C. After washing with hot water, it was naturally dried. Thereafter, the tensile strength at break was measured at n = 5 with an auto-draft (a tensile strength tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation). The breaking strength ratio with the untreated polyurethane fiber was calculated.
(非抜蝕性非弾性繊維繊維の強度係数)  (Strength coefficient of non-exhaustable inelastic fiber fiber)
強度係数 = (繊度 (d t ex) X単糸強度 (CNZd t e x) X単位面積当たり の密度 (コース Xゥエルまたはタテ密度 Xョコ密度) X抜蝕部の抜蝕する前の非 抜蝕性非弾性繊維の混率  Strength factor = (Fineness (dt ex) X Single yarn strength (CNZd tex) X Density per unit area (course X well or vertical density X horizontal density) X Elastic fiber mixing ratio
単糸強度は、 Nyは 5CNZd t e Xで、 P ETは 6 CNZd t e xで計算した。 〔実施例 1〕  The single yarn strength was calculated as 5CNZd t e X for Ny and 6 CNZd t e x for PET. Example 1
6ナイロン繊維 (東レ (株) 製、 33 d t e xZ26 f ) と、 常圧可染タイプの カチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 (三菱レーヨン (株) 製 56 d t e xZ36 f ) 、 およびエーテル糸ポリウレタン繊維 (東洋紡 (株) 製 エスパ T一 71、 単 糸繊度 44d t ex 耐アルカリ強度試験 65%) からなる、 経編のアトラス組織 により、 ナイロン繊維 40. 0重量%、 常圧力チオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 40. 0重量%、 ポリウレタン繊維 20. 0重量%からなる複合布帛 (厚さ lmm) を用 いた。  6 nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dte xZ26 f), pressure-dyeable cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. 56 dte xZ36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber (Toyobo ( Co., Ltd. ESPA T-1 71, single yarn fineness 44d t ex alkali resistance test 65%), warp knitted atlas structure 40.0% nylon fiber, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber 40.0 A composite fabric (thickness lmm) consisting of 1% by weight and 20.0% by weight of polyurethane fibers was used.
布帛の表面に、 第 4級アンモニゥム塩を含む下記の処方 1からなる処理液をスク リーンプリント機を用いてストライプ状に印捺し、 その後、 温度 1 10°Cの過熱蒸 気にて 15分間蒸熱処理を行い、 捺染糊に含まれる第 4級アンモニゥム塩を布帛に 吸収させた。 次に、 水洗処理を 30°Cの水にて 10分間行い、 更に 60°Cにて 10 分間の湯洗いを行うことにより、 繊維布帛シート表面に付着している捺染糊と残留 している第 4級アンモニゥム塩を完全に取り除いた。 次に、 抜蝕処理として、 温度 90°C、 1. 2重量%濃度の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液中に 30分間浸漬後、 撹拌処 理を行った後取り出し、 付着している水酸化ナトリウムを完全に除去するために、 更に 70°Cの温水にて 5分間の水洗を 3:回行った。 その後、 乾燥機にて 130°Cで 2分間乾燥した。 On the surface of the fabric, a treatment liquid comprising the following prescription 1 containing a quaternary ammonium salt is applied to the screen. Stripe printing was performed using a lean printing machine, and then steaming was performed for 15 minutes in superheated steam at a temperature of 110 ° C to absorb the quaternary ammonium salt contained in the printing paste into the fabric. Next, washing with water at 30 ° C. for 10 minutes, and further washing with hot water at 60 ° C. for 10 minutes, the printing paste adhering to the fiber fabric sheet surface remains. The 4th grade ammonium salt was completely removed. Next, as a pitting process, after immersion for 30 minutes in a 1.2% strength by weight sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at a temperature of 90 ° C, it was removed after stirring, and the attached sodium hydroxide was completely removed. In order to remove it, it was further washed with 70 ° C hot water for 5 minutes three times. Then, it was dried at 130 ° C for 2 minutes with a dryer.
[処方 1]  [Prescription 1]
ラッコール CT— 2000 20% Lakkor CT—2000 20%
(明成化学工業 (株) 製、 第 4級アンモニゥム塩) (Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., 4th grade ammonium salt)
フジケミ HEC BL 30 40% Fujikemi HEC BL 30 40%
(富士化学 (株) 製、 ヒドロキシェチルセルロース) (Hydroxyethyl cellulose manufactured by Fuji Chemical Co., Ltd.)
水 40 % その後、 紫外線吸収剤として 2— (2—ヒドロキシー 3, 5—ジ— t一プチルフ ェニル) — 5—クロ口—ベンゾトリアゾール 20. 0%owf、 酢酸 1. O c cZ 1、 の水溶液に上記布帛を 100°Cで 30分間浸漬処理を行った。 評価結果を表 1 に示す。  40% water, then 2— (2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butyl) as a UV absorber — 5-chloro-benzotriazole 20. 0% owf, acetic acid 1. O c cZ 1, aqueous solution The above fabric was subjected to an immersion treatment at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
〔実施例 2〕  Example 2
実施例 1で用いた布帛に、 下記の処方 2からなる処理液を固形分換算で 2 gZm2 になるようにパッデイング法で投与し、 170°Cで 2分間乾燥してインク受理層を 形成した。 To the fabric used in Example 1, the treatment liquid having the following formulation 2 was administered by a padding method so as to be 2 gZm 2 in terms of solid content, and dried at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes to form an ink receiving layer. .
[処方 2]  [Prescription 2]
DKSファインガム HEL— 1 2 % DKS Fine Gum HEL— 1 2%
(第一工業製薬 (株) 製、 エーテル化カルポキシメチルセルロース) (Etherized Carpoxymethylcellulose, manufactured by Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)
MSリキッド 5% (明成化学工業 (株) 製、 ニトロベンゼンスルホン酸塩、 還元防止剤、 有効成分 30%) 水 93% 次にィンク受理層を形成した布帛に下記処方 3の抜蝕用ィンクをオンデマンド方 式シリアル走査型ィンクジェット印捺装置を用いてストライプ状に印捺した。 MS Liquid 5% (manufactured by Meisei Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., nitrobenzene sulfonate, reduction inhibitor, Active ingredient 30%) Water 93% Next, an extraction sink of the following prescription 3 was printed in a stripe shape on an on-demand type serial scanning type ink jet printing apparatus on a fabric on which an ink receiving layer was formed.
[処方 3]  [Prescription 3]
炭酸グァニジン (繊維分解剤) 20 % 尿素 (溶解安定剤) 5% ジエチレングリコール (乾燥防止剤) . 5% 水 70 % 更に、 布帛を乾燥した後、 HTスチ一マ一を用いて 160°Cで 20分間湿熱処理 した。 更に、 トライポール TK (第一工業製薬 (株) 製、 ノニオン界面活性剤) を 2 g/L、 ソ一ダ灰を 2 gZLを含むソ一ビング浴にて、 50 で 10分間処理し て洗浄した後、 水洗し、 乾燥して抜蝕加工物を得た。  Guanidine carbonate (fiber decomposition agent) 20% Urea (dissolution stabilizer) 5% Diethylene glycol (drying inhibitor) 5% water 70% Furthermore, after drying the fabric, using HT steamer at 160 ° C 20 Wet heat treatment for a minute. Furthermore, it was cleaned by treating for 10 minutes at 50 in a soaking bath containing 2 g / L of Tripol TK (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant) and 2 gZL of soda ash. After that, it was washed with water and dried to obtain a discharge processed product.
その後、 紫外線吸収剤として 2— (2—ヒドロキシ— 3, 5—ジー t一プチルフ ェニル) 一 5—クロ口—ベンゾトリアゾ一ル 20. 0%owf、 酢酸 1. O c c/ 1、 の水溶液に上記布帛を 100°Cで 30分間浸漬処理を行った。 評価結果を表 1 に示す。  Then add 2- (2-hydroxy-3,5-dipropyl) -5-trioxybenzoylazol. 20. 0% owf, acetic acid 1. O cc / 1, as an ultraviolet absorber. The fabric was dipped at 100 ° C for 30 minutes. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
〔実施例 3〕  Example 3
レギュラーポリエステル繊維 (東レ (株) 製、 33 d t e xZ26 f ) と、 常圧 可染タイプのカチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 (三菱レーヨン (株) 製、 33 d t e x/36 f)、 およびエーテル糸ポリウレタン繊維 (東洋紡 (株) 製 エスパ T一 71、 単糸繊度 44 d t e 耐ァルカリ強度試験 65 %) からなる、 経編のハー フ組織により、 レギュラーポリエステル繊維 43. 0重量%、 常圧力チオン可染性 ポリエステル繊維 43. 0重量%、 ポリウレタン繊維 14. 0重量%からなる複合 布帛 (厚さ lmm) を用い、 実施例 1と同じ条件にて加工した。 評価結果を表 1に 示す。  Regular polyester fiber (manufactured by Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dte xZ26 f), atmospheric pressure dyeable type cationic dyeable polyester fiber (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 33 dtex / 36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber ( Regular polyester fiber 43.0% by weight, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber, with a warp knitted half structure consisting of ESPA T-1 71, manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., single yarn fineness 44 dte, anti-kali strength test 65%) A composite fabric (thickness lmm) consisting of 43.0 wt% and polyurethane fibers 14.0 wt% was processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the evaluation results.
〔比較例 1〕  (Comparative Example 1)
6ナイロン繊維 (東レ (株) 製、 33 d t e x/26 f ) と、 常圧可染タイプの カチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 (三菱レーヨン (株) 製 56 d t e x/36 f ) 、 およびエーテル ·エステル系弾性糸 (帝人 (株) 製 レクセ、 単糸繊度 44 d t e X 耐アルカリ強度保持率 40%) からなる、 経編のハーフ組織により、 ナ ィロン繊維 40. 0重量%、 常圧力チオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 40. 0重量%、 ポリウレタン繊維 20. 0重量%からなる複合布帛 (厚さ lmm) を用いた。 6 Nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dtex / 26 f) From cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. 56 dtex / 36 f) and ether ester elastic yarn (Teijin Co., Ltd. Lexe, single yarn fineness 44 dte X Alkali strength retention 40%) A composite fabric (thickness lmm) consisting of nylon fiber 40.0% by weight, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber 40.0% by weight, polyurethane fiber 20.0% by weight is used. It was.
布帛の表面に、 第 4級アンモニゥム塩を含む処方 1からなる処理液をスクリーン プリント機を用いてストライプ状に印捺し、 温度 110 にて 2分間乾燥させた。 その後、 温度 110での過熱蒸気にて 15分間蒸熱処理を行い、 捺染糊に含まれる 第 4級アンモニゥム塩を布帛に吸収させた。 次に、 水洗処理を 30°Cの水にて 10 分間行い、 更に 60°Cにて 10分間の湯洗いを行うことにより、 繊維布帛シート表 面に付着している捺染糊と残留している第 4級アンモニゥム塩を完全に取り除いた。 次に、 抜蝕処理として、 温度 90 、 1. 2重量%濃度の水酸化ナトリウム水溶液 中に 30分間浸漬、 撹拌処理を行った後取り出し、 付着している水酸化ナトリウム を完全に除去するために、 更に 70 の温水にて 5分間の水洗を 3回行った。 その 後、 乾燥機にて 13 で 2分間乾燥した。  On the surface of the fabric, a treatment liquid comprising Formula 1 containing a quaternary ammonium salt was printed in stripes using a screen printing machine and dried at a temperature of 110 for 2 minutes. Thereafter, steaming was performed for 15 minutes with superheated steam at a temperature of 110 to absorb the quaternary ammonium salt contained in the printing paste into the fabric. Next, washing with water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, followed by washing with hot water at 60 ° C for 10 minutes, the printing paste adhering to the fiber fabric sheet surface remains. Completely removed quaternary ammonium salt. Next, in order to remove the attached sodium hydroxide completely, it was immersed in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 90 and a concentration of 1.2% by weight for 30 minutes and removed after stirring. Further, it was washed with warm water of 70 times for 5 minutes three times. Then, it was dried for 2 minutes at 13 with a dryer.
その後、 塩素を含む紫外線吸収剤として 2— (2—ヒドロキシ— 3, 5—ジー t 一プチルフエ二ル) _ 5—クロ口—ベンゾトリアゾ一ル 20. 0%owf、 酢酸 1. 0 c c/ K の水溶液に上記布帛を 100 で 30分間浸漬処理を行った。 評価を 表 2に示す。  Then, 2- (2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenol) _ 5-black mouth-benzotriazol 20.0% owf, acetic acid 1.0 cc / K as UV absorber containing chlorine The fabric was immersed in the aqueous solution at 100 for 30 minutes. Table 2 shows the evaluation.
〔比較例 2〕  (Comparative Example 2)
6ナイロン繊維 (東レ (株) 製、 33 d t e xZ26 f ) と、 常圧可染タイプの カチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 (三菱レーヨン (株) 製 56 d t e xZ36 f ) 、 およびェ一テル糸ポリウレタン繊維 (東洋紡 (株) 製 エスパ T一 71、 単 糸繊度 44d t e x 耐アルカリ強度保持率 65%) からなる、 経編のアトラス組 織により、 ナイロン繊維 20. 0重量%、 常圧力チオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 6 0. 0重量%、 ポリウレタン繊維 20. 0重量%からなる複合布帛 (厚さ lmm) を用いた。  6 nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dte xZ26 f), atmospheric pressure-dyeable cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. 56 dte xZ36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber ( Made of Toyobo Co., Ltd. ESPA T-71, single yarn fineness 44d tex Alkali strength retention rate 65%), warp knitted atlas fabric, nylon fiber 20. 0% by weight, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber A composite fabric (thickness lmm) composed of 60.0% by weight and polyurethane fiber 20.0% by weight was used.
布帛の表面に、 第 4級アンモニゥム塩を含む処方 1からなる処理液をスクリーンプ リント機を用いてストライプ状に印捺し、 その後、 温度 110°Cの過熱蒸気にて 15 分間蒸熱処理を行い、 捺染糊に含まれる第 4級アンモニゥム塩を布帛に吸収させた。 次に、 7K洗処理を 30°Cの水にて 10分間行い、 更に 60 にて 10分間の湯洗を行 うことにより、 繊維布帛シート表面に付着している捺染糊と残留している第 4級アン モニゥム塩を完全に取り除いた。 次に、 抜蝕処理として、 温度 90°C、 1. 2重量% 濃度の水酸化ナトリゥム水溶液中に 30分間浸漬後、 撹拌処理を行つた後取り出し、 付着している水酸化ナトリウムを完全に除去するために、 更に 70°Cの温水にて 5分 間の水洗を 3回行った。 その後、 乾燥機にて 130°Cで 2分間乾燥した。 A treatment liquid consisting of Formula 1 containing quaternary ammonium salt is screened on the fabric surface. Using a lint machine, it was printed in stripes, and then steamed with superheated steam at a temperature of 110 ° C for 15 minutes to absorb the quaternary ammonium salt contained in the printing paste into the fabric. Next, 7K washing treatment is performed in water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, and further by washing with hot water for 10 minutes at 60 ° C, the printing paste adhering to the surface of the fiber fabric sheet remains. Completely removed 4th grade ammonium salt. Next, as a pitting process, after being immersed in an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at a temperature of 90 ° C and a concentration of 1.2% by weight for 30 minutes, it was removed after stirring and completely removed the attached sodium hydroxide. In order to do this, it was further washed three times with warm water at 70 ° C for 5 minutes. Then, it was dried at 130 ° C for 2 minutes with a dryer.
その後、 紫外線吸収剤として 2— (2—ヒドロキシ— 3, 5—ジ— t—ブチルフエ ニル) — 5—クロローべンゾトリアゾ一ル 20. 0%owf、 酢酸 1. 0c cZl、 の水溶液に上記布帛を 100でで 30分間浸漬処理を行った。 評価を表 2に示す。 〔比較例 3〕  Thereafter, the above fabric was added to an aqueous solution of 2- (2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenyl) — 5-chloro-benzotriazol 20.0% owf, acetic acid 1.0c cZl as an ultraviolet absorber. Immersion treatment was performed at 100 for 30 minutes. The evaluation is shown in Table 2. (Comparative Example 3)
6ナイロン繊維 (東レ (株) 製、 33 d t e x/26 f ) と、 常圧可染タイプの カチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 (三菱レーヨン (株) 製、 56 d t e xZ36 f ) 、 およびエーテル糸ポリウレタン繊維 (東洋紡 (株) 製 エスパ T一 71、 単 糸繊度 44d t ex 耐アルカリ強度保持率 65%) からなる、 経編のアトラス組 織により、 ナイロン繊維 30. 0重量%、 常圧力チオン可染性ポリエステル繊維 4 5. 0重量%、 ポリウレタン繊維 25. 0重量%からなる複合布帛 (厚さ lmm) に、 処方 2からなる処理液を固形分換算で 2 g/m2になるようにパッディング法 で付与し、 170°Cで 2分間乾燥してインク受理層を形成した。 6 nylon fiber (Toray Industries, Ltd., 33 dtex / 26 f), atmospheric pressure dyeable cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 56 dte xZ36 f), and ether yarn polyurethane fiber ( Made of Toyobo Co., Ltd. Espa T-71, single yarn fineness 44d t ex Alkali strength retention 65%), warp knitted atlas fabric, 30.0% nylon fiber, normal pressure thione dyeable polyester fiber 4 5.0% by weight, the polyurethane fibers 25. from 0 wt% composite fabric (thickness lmm), formulation 2 consists of the treatment liquid with padding method to be 2 g / m 2 on a solid basis And dried at 170 ° C. for 2 minutes to form an ink receiving layer.
次にィンク受理層を形成した布帛に処方 3の抜蝕用ィンクをオンデマンド方式シ リアル走査型インクジエツト印捺装置を用いてストライプ状に印捺した。  Next, the ink for pre-extraction of Formula 3 was printed in stripes on the fabric on which the ink receiving layer was formed, using an on-demand type serial scanning ink jet printing apparatus.
更に、 布帛を乾燥した後、 HTスチーマーを用いて 160 で 20分間湿熱処理 した。 更に、 トライポール TK (第一工業製薬 (株) 製、 ノニオン界面活性剤) を 2gZL、 ソーダ灰を 2 g/Lを含むソーピング浴にて、 50°Cで 10分間処理し て洗浄した後、 水洗し、 乾燥して抜蝕加工物を得た。  Further, after the fabric was dried, it was subjected to wet heat treatment at 160 for 20 minutes using an HT steamer. Furthermore, after washing by treating for 10 minutes at 50 ° C in a soaping bath containing 2 g ZL of Tripol TK (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant) and 2 g / L of soda ash, It was washed with water and dried to obtain an extracted processed product.
その後、 紫外線吸収剤として 2— (2—ヒドロキシ— 3, 5—ジ— t一プチルフ ェニル) —5—クロ口—ベンゾトリアゾール 20. 0%owf、 酢酸 1. O c cZ 1、 の水溶液に上記布帛を 1 0 0 で 3 0分間浸漬処理を行った。 評価結果を表 2 に示す。 Then, 2- (2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-butylphenyl) —5-chloro-benzotriazole 20. 0% owf, acetic acid 1. O c cZ The above fabric was immersed in the aqueous solution 1 at 30 for 30 minutes. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
Figure imgf000015_0001
表 2
Figure imgf000015_0001
Table 2
Figure imgf000015_0002
産業上の利用可能性
Figure imgf000015_0002
Industrial applicability
本発明の伸縮性布帛は、 風合や、 着用感を損なわず、 また通気性や耐久性に優れ、 スポーツやインナー分野の衣服等として用いるのに適している。  The stretchable fabric of the present invention does not impair the texture and wearing feeling, is excellent in breathability and durability, and is suitable for use as clothes in sports and inner fields.

Claims

請求の範囲 The scope of the claims
1. 抜蝕性非弾性繊維、 非抜蝕性非弾性繊維および弾性繊維によって構成され、 抜蝕 ¾5と非抜蝕部とをもち、 抜蝕性非弾性繊維が力チォン可染性ポリエステ ル繊維からなり、 弾性繊維が耐アルカリ性ポリウレタン繊維からなり、 非抜 蝕性非弾性繊維の強度係数が 160, 000以上であることを特徵とする伸 縮性布帛。  1. Consists of non-extractable non-elastic fibers, non-extractable non-elastic fibers, and elastic fibers, and has an extraction ¾5 and non-exhaustable parts, and the non-extractable non-extractable fibers are force-thin dyeable polyester fibers. A stretchable fabric characterized in that the elastic fiber is made of an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber, and the strength coefficient of the non-extractable non-elastic fiber is 160,000 or more.
2. ポリウレ夕ン繊維が 6 %濃度の苛性ソーダ水溶液に常温で 5分間浸漬後の強 度維持率が 60%以上でのポリウレタン繊維である請求項 1記載の伸縮性布 帛。  2. The stretchable fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyurethane fiber is a polyurethane fiber having a strength maintenance ratio of 60% or more after being immersed in a 6% strength aqueous caustic soda solution at room temperature for 5 minutes.
3. 抜蝕処理前の構成繊維の割合が、 カチオン可染性ポリエステル繊維が 30〜 55%、 非弾性繊維が 25〜55%、 ポリウレタン繊維が 10〜 45 %であ る請求項 1または 2記載の伸縮性布帛。  3. The proportion of constituent fibers before the discharge treatment is 30 to 55% for cationic dyeable polyester fibers, 25 to 55% for non-elastic fibers, and 10 to 45% for polyurethane fibers. Elastic fabric.
4. 抜蝕部の破壊強度が 200 K P a以上である請求項 1〜 3のいずれか 1項記 載の伸縮性布帛。  4. The stretchable fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the fracture strength of the removed portion is 200 KPa or more.
5. 非抜蝕性非弾性繊維がナイロン繊維であり、 弾性繊維がエーテル系ポリウレ タン繊維である請求項 1〜4のいずれか 1項記載の伸縮性布帛。  5. The stretchable fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the non-extractable inelastic fiber is a nylon fiber, and the elastic fiber is an ether-based polyurethane fiber.
6. 紫外線吸収剤が付与されている請求項 1〜 5のいずれか 1項記載の伸縮性布 帛。  6. The stretchable fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is provided with an ultraviolet absorber.
7. 紫外線吸収剤の付与が構造中に塩素を含むベンゾトリァゾール系紫外線吸収 剤の後加工による付与である請求項 6記載の伸縮性布帛。  7. The stretchable fabric according to claim 6, wherein the application of the ultraviolet absorber is performed by post-processing of a benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure.
8. カーボンアーク灯光を 40時間照射した後の抜蝕部の応力保持率が 90%以 上であり、 抜蝕部の 30%の伸長時の応力が非抜蝕部の 30%伸長時の応力 の 20〜85%であり、 且つ、 抜蝕部の弾性繊維の破断強度が非抜蝕部の弾 性繊維の破断強度の 90 %以上である請求項 1〜 7のいずれか 1項記載の伸 縮性布帛。 8. The stress retention rate of the extracted part after irradiation with carbon arc lamp for 40 hours is 90% or more, and the stress at the time of 30% extension of the extracted part is the stress at the time of 30% extension of the non-extracted part. The elongation according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the extracted portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the non-extracted portion. Shrinkable fabric.
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