TWI391545B - Stretch fabric - Google Patents

Stretch fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
TWI391545B
TWI391545B TW96102683A TW96102683A TWI391545B TW I391545 B TWI391545 B TW I391545B TW 96102683 A TW96102683 A TW 96102683A TW 96102683 A TW96102683 A TW 96102683A TW I391545 B TWI391545 B TW I391545B
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Taiwan
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fiber
etched portion
fibers
inelastic
etched
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TW96102683A
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Chinese (zh)
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TW200736445A (en
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Tetsutaro Fumishi
Kingo Tanaka
Katsuhiko Yanagi
Takuya Suehiro
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Seiren Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/35Heterocyclic compounds
    • D06M13/352Heterocyclic compounds having five-membered heterocyclic rings
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06MTREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/25Resistance to light or sun, i.e. protection of the textile itself as well as UV shielding materials or treatment compositions therefor; Anti-yellowing treatments

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Description

具伸縮性布料Stretchable fabric

本發明係關於一種具伸縮性布料,尤其關於一種在同一布料上具有至少2種相異之伸縮彈性區域,依需要而賦予花紋顯現的具伸縮性布料。The present invention relates to a stretchable fabric, and more particularly to a stretchable fabric having at least two different stretchable elastic regions on the same fabric and imparting a pattern as needed.

近年,已開發出一種針對使用各種手法之運動功能性提昇、消除疲勞功能、減輕疲勞功能、體型修整、或體型矯正等之功能的高功能性布料,在各種領域中對製品之展開擴大開來。其一係具有一種使用聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維等之彈性纖維的高伸縮性布料,此等係可在運動或室內領域中使用。此等之製品係可減輕穿著時之不舒服感,且依目的而於必要之部位賦予必須的應力之製品。In recent years, a highly functional fabric that has been developed for various functions such as motor functional improvement, fatigue reduction, fatigue reduction, body shaping, or body shape correction has been developed, and the development of products has been expanded in various fields. . One of them has a highly stretchable fabric using elastic fibers such as polyurethane fibers, which can be used in sports or indoor fields. These products are products which can reduce the uncomfortable feeling during wearing and impart necessary stress to the necessary parts according to the purpose.

於必要之部位顯現應力之方法係有:改變所使用之絲的纖維度或種類,或使變更組織等之編織條件變化之方法;於特定部分賦予樹脂之方法;使特定部分進行拔蝕加工之方法及於特定處層合布料或膠帶狀物之方法等。The method of exhibiting stress at a necessary portion includes a method of changing the fiberiness or type of the yarn to be used, or a method of changing the weaving condition of the structure or the like; a method of imparting a resin to a specific portion; and performing a etching process on a specific portion. The method and the method of laminating a cloth or a tape at a specific place.

改變編織條件之方法,應力差係易得到,且亦易控制應力,例藉改變絲之纖維度或絲種,或改變組織,於可看到之處恐有感覺不適,或恐穿著感變差。The method of changing the weaving conditions, the stress difference is easy to obtain, and it is easy to control the stress. For example, by changing the fiberiness or silk type of the silk, or changing the structure, it may be uncomfortable to be seen, or the wearing feeling may be poor. .

賦予樹脂之方法係於賦予樹脂區域中之布料的伸縮性改變之方法,於布料內易自由地控制應力,但為賦予樹脂,布料之質感易變硬,穿著感恐變差。又產生賦予樹脂部之通氣性降低、反覆穿著時或洗滌造成之樹脂破壞、龜裂、剝離等,並擔心耐久性。The method of imparting the resin is a method of changing the stretchability of the cloth in the resin region, and the stress is easily controlled in the cloth. However, in order to impart a resin, the texture of the cloth is easily hardened, and the wearing feeling is deteriorated. Further, there is a concern that the air permeability of the resin portion is lowered, the resin is broken, cracked, peeled, or the like caused by repeated wearing or washing, and durability is feared.

層合布料或膠帶狀物之方法係因採用接著、縫裂等之方法,易得到應力差,但此亦因接著劑樹脂造成質感變硬,所貼附之部分的厚度會增大,恐穿著感受損。又,所層合之布料等亦恐剝離。仍存在縫製中於縫製部產生段差或凹凸,且在意於肌膚接觸等之問題。The method of laminating the cloth or the tape is easy to obtain a stress difference by a method such as squeezing or slitting, but the texture is hardened by the adhesive resin, and the thickness of the attached portion is increased, which may cause wearing. Feeling damaged. Moreover, the laminated fabric or the like may be peeled off. There is still a problem that a step or unevenness occurs in the sewn portion during sewing, and the skin is in contact with the skin.

又,有關拔蝕加工方法亦已揭示許多之技術。例如,於特開平2-91288號公報及特開平3-867號公報中已提出一種拔蝕方法,其係藉由以胺類(三乙醇胺等)作為纖維脆化劑進行處理之纖維布料薄片進一步進行鹼處理,而使改性聚酯纖維進行鹼水解。然而,使用胺類作為纖維脆化劑之上述方法,係改性聚酯纖維以外應殘存之纖維亦脆化,且降低強度,故可使用之纖維的種類有限制。Also, many techniques have been disclosed regarding the etching process. For example, a method of etching a fiber cloth sheet which is treated with an amine (triethanolamine or the like) as a fiber embrittlement agent has been proposed in JP-A No. 2-91288 and JP-A No. 3-867. The alkali-treated is carried out to subject the modified polyester fiber to alkali hydrolysis. However, in the above method using an amine as a fiber embrittlement agent, fibers remaining in addition to the modified polyester fiber are also embrittled and the strength is lowered, so that the type of fiber that can be used is limited.

進一步,進行拔蝕加工時,拔蝕部係彈性纖維易露出於布料的表面。因此,若布料曝露於太陽光等之紫外線中,有彈性纖維脆化而引起伸縮性降低的問題。Further, when the etching process is performed, the elastic fibers in the etched portion are easily exposed on the surface of the cloth. Therefore, if the cloth is exposed to ultraviolet rays such as sunlight, the elastic fiber is embrittled and the stretchability is lowered.

(發明之揭示)(disclosure of the invention) (發明之目的)(the purpose of the invention)

本發明之目的在於解決上述習知技術之問題點,尤其在於提供一種無損質感或穿著感,而又通氣性或耐久性優之具有相異彈性率的伸縮部之具伸縮性布料,特別係在於提供一種可抑制彈性纖維之脆化之由拔蝕部與非拔蝕部所構成之具伸縮性布料。The object of the present invention is to solve the problems of the above-mentioned prior art, and in particular to provide a stretchable fabric having a stretchable portion having a different elastic modulus and having excellent air permeability or durability, in particular, A stretchable fabric comprising an etched portion and a non-etched portion capable of suppressing embrittlement of an elastic fiber is provided.

(發明之要約)(invention offer)

本發明第1係一種具伸縮性布料,其特徵在於:藉拔蝕性非彈性纖維、非拔蝕性非彈性纖維及彈性纖維所構成,且具有拔蝕部與非拔蝕部,拔蝕性非彈性纖維為由陽離子可染性聚酯纖維所構成,彈性纖維為由耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維所構成,非拔蝕性非彈性纖維的強度係數為170,000以上。According to a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a stretchable fabric comprising: a corroded inelastic fiber, a non-corrosive inelastic fiber, and an elastic fiber, and having a etched portion and a non-etched portion, and etched. The non-elastic fiber is composed of a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, the elastic fiber is composed of an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber, and the non-corrosive non-elastic fiber has an intensity coefficient of 170,000 or more.

本發明第2係如上述1項之具伸縮性布料,其中在氨基甲酸酯纖維為6%濃度之苛性鈉水溶液中常溫下浸漬5分鐘後的強度維持率為60%以上之聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。The second aspect of the invention is the stretchable fabric according to the above item 1, wherein the polyurethane having a strength retention ratio of 60% or more after being immersed for 5 minutes at room temperature in a caustic soda aqueous solution having a urethane fiber concentration of 6% is used. Ester fiber.

本發明第3係如上述1或2項之具伸縮性布料,其中拔蝕處理前之構成纖維的比率係陽離子可染性聚酯纖維為30~55%,非彈性纖維為25~55%,聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維為10~45%。According to a third aspect of the invention, the stretchable fabric of the above item 1 or 2, wherein the ratio of the constituent fibers before the etch treatment is 30 to 55% for the cationic dyeable polyester fiber and 25 to 55% for the inelastic fiber. Polyurethane fibers are 10 to 45%.

本發明第4係如上述1~3項中任一項的具伸縮性布料,其中拔蝕部之破壞強度為200KPa以上。The fourth aspect of the invention is the stretchable fabric according to any one of the items 1 to 3, wherein the etched portion has a breaking strength of 200 KPa or more.

本發明第5係如上述1~4項中任一項的具伸縮性布料,其中非拔蝕性非彈性纖維為耐綸(Nylon)纖維,彈性纖維為醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。The stretchable fabric according to any one of the above items 1 to 4, wherein the non-corrosive inelastic fibers are Nylon fibers, and the elastic fibers are ether-based polyurethane fibers.

本發明第6係如上述1~5項中任一項的具伸縮性布料,其中賦予紫外線吸收劑。The stretchable fabric according to any one of the items 1 to 5 above, wherein the ultraviolet absorber is provided.

本發明第7係如上述6項的具伸縮性布料,其中紫外線吸收劑之賦予係於構造中含有氯之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑之後加工所實施的賦予。According to a seventh aspect of the invention, the stretchable fabric of the above-mentioned item 6, wherein the ultraviolet ray absorbing agent is applied to the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet ray absorbing agent containing chlorine in the structure.

本發明第8係如上述1~7項中任一項的具伸縮性布料,其中照射碳弧光燈光40小時後之拔蝕部的應力保持率為90%以上,拔蝕部的30%的伸長時的應力為非拔蝕部的30%伸長時的應力之20~85%,且,拔蝕部之彈性纖維的斷裂強度為非拔蝕部之彈性纖維的斷裂強度的90%以上。The reinforced fabric of any one of the above items 1 to 7, wherein the stress retention rate of the etched portion after the irradiation of the carbon arc light for 40 hours is 90% or more, and the elongation of the etched portion is 30%. The stress at the time is 20 to 85% of the stress at 30% elongation of the non-etched portion, and the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the etched portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the elastic fiber of the non-etched portion.

具有本發明之拔蝕部與非拔蝕部之布料,係可抑制拔蝕之非彈性纖維以外之非彈性纖維或彈性纖維的強度降低,特定之部分被拔蝕之具有伸縮性相異的部分,經長期間顯示良好的伸縮性。The fabric having the etched portion and the non-etched portion of the present invention is capable of suppressing the decrease in strength of the inelastic fiber or the elastic fiber other than the inelastic non-elastic fiber, and the specific portion is etched and has a stretchable portion It shows good flexibility over a long period of time.

(發明之實施形態)(Embodiment of the invention)

本發明之布料係一種具伸縮性布料,其特徵在於:以含有聚酯纖維之2種以上的非彈性纖維與耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維所構成,聚酯系非彈性纖維選擇性地被拔蝕之拔蝕部與非拔蝕部所形成之布料,較佳係非彈性纖維為由拔蝕性纖維之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維與非拔蝕性纖維之耐綸纖維所構成,彈性纖維由醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維所構成。The fabric of the present invention is a stretchable fabric comprising two or more kinds of inelastic fibers containing polyester fibers and alkali-resistant polyurethane fibers, and the polyester-based inelastic fibers are selectively selected. The cloth formed by the etched etched portion and the non-etched portion is preferably composed of a non-elastic fiber composed of a cationic dyeable polyester fiber of a corroded fiber and a non-corroded fiber. The elastic fiber is composed of an ether-based polyurethane fiber.

耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維之耐鹼性系可確認以在6%濃度之苛性鈉水溶液中常溫(20℃)下測定5分鐘浸漬後的強度保持率,其值宜為60%以上。In the alkali resistance of the alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber, it was confirmed that the strength retention after immersion for 5 minutes at a normal temperature (20 ° C) in a 6% aqueous solution of caustic soda is preferably 60% or more.

在本發明所使用之非彈性纖維係使用未被拔蝕者與被拔蝕者之2種類。The inelastic fibers used in the present invention use two types of non-etched and etched.

在本發明中,被拔蝕之非彈性纖維係可使用陽離子可溶性聚酯纖維。宜為常壓型或高壓型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維,但就拔蝕性優而言,尤宜為常壓型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維。In the present invention, a cationically soluble polyester fiber can be used as the non-elastic fiber to be etched. It is preferably a cationic dyeable polyester fiber of a normal pressure type or a high pressure type, but in terms of excellent etchability, it is particularly preferably a cationic dyeable polyester fiber of a normal pressure type.

未被拔蝕之非彈性纖維係亦可為綿或麻等之天然纖維、聚酯纖維或聚醯胺纖維等之合成纖維、或嫘縈等之再生纖維或纖維素乙酸酯等之半合成纖維的任一者,無特別限定,但可使用強度係數為170,000以上者。一般宜使用耐綸纖維或聚對苯二甲酸乙二酯纖維,尤其,就強度、耐久性或染色堅牢度而言,宜為耐綸纖維。The non-elastic fiber which is not etched may be a synthetic fiber such as cotton or hemp, a synthetic fiber such as polyester fiber or polyamide fiber, or a semi-synthetic fiber such as regenerated fiber or cellulose acetate. Any of the fibers is not particularly limited, but an intensity coefficient of 170,000 or more can be used. It is generally preferred to use nylon fibers or polyethylene terephthalate fibers, and in particular, in terms of strength, durability or dye fastness, nylon fibers are preferred.

在本發明中,係與上述拔蝕相異之複數種的非彈性纖維組合而使用彈性纖維,但彈性纖維係如上述般使用耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。In the present invention, an elastic fiber is used in combination with a plurality of types of inelastic fibers different from the above-described erosion, but the elastic fiber is an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber as described above.

具體上,就耐拔蝕性而言,宜使用在6%濃度之苛性鈉中常溫下5分鐘浸漬後的強度保持率為60%以上之聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維,尤其宜為醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。若苛性鈉浸漬後的聚氨基甲酸乙酯的強度保持率不足60%,恐無法得到拔蝕部所需之應力。Specifically, in terms of corrosion resistance, it is preferred to use a polyurethane fiber having a strength retention ratio of 60% or more after immersion at room temperature for 5 minutes at a concentration of caustic soda of 6%, particularly preferably an ether-based polyamino group. Ethyl formate fiber. If the strength retention of the polyurethane after the caustic soaking is less than 60%, the stress required for the etched portion may not be obtained.

又,在本發明所使用之布料係宜於拔蝕處理前,陽離子可染性聚酯纖維為30~55%,非拔蝕性非彈性纖維為25~55%,彈性纖維為10~30%之比率所構成。若陽離子可染性聚酯纖維不足45%,恐無法得到非拔蝕部必需之應力,若多於55%,拔蝕部與非拔蝕部之應力差變大,恐損及穿著感。Moreover, the cloth used in the present invention is preferably 30 to 55% of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber, 25 to 55% of the non-corroding inelastic fiber, and 10 to 30% of the elastic fiber before the etching treatment. The ratio consists of. If the cationic dyeable polyester fiber is less than 45%, the stress necessary for the non-etching portion may not be obtained, and if it is more than 55%, the stress difference between the etched portion and the non-etched portion becomes large, and the feeling of fear and wear is felt.

又,若未被拔蝕之非彈性纖維纖維的比率不足25%,恐無法得到必需之斷裂強度,若多於55%,恐損及伸縮性。Further, if the ratio of the non-elastic fiber fibers which are not etched is less than 25%, the necessary breaking strength may not be obtained, and if it is more than 55%, the damage and stretchability may be obtained.

又,彈性纖維之比率若不足10%,恐無法得到必需之應力,若超過45%,於染色加工時,恐無法確保洗滌堅牢度等之堅牢度。Further, if the ratio of the elastic fibers is less than 10%, the necessary stress may not be obtained. If it exceeds 45%, the fastness of the washing fastness or the like may not be ensured during the dyeing process.

又,非拔蝕性非彈性纖維之強度係數必須為170,000以上,若強度係數不足170,000,恐無法充分得到拔蝕部之斷裂強度。Further, the strength coefficient of the non-corroded inelastic fiber must be 170,000 or more, and if the strength coefficient is less than 170,000, the breaking strength of the etched portion may not be sufficiently obtained.

進一步,拔蝕部之斷裂強度宜為200KPa以上。Further, the breaking strength of the etched portion is preferably 200 KPa or more.

本發明所使用之彈性纖維與2種以上的非彈性纖維,可分別以單獨、混紡、混纖、合撚、交撚、拉整絲等之適當的絲形狀使用。絲之纖維度無特別限定。The elastic fiber used in the present invention and the two or more kinds of inelastic fibers may be used in a respective wire shape such as individual, blended, mixed fiber, combined, crosslinked, or woven. The fiberiness of the yarn is not particularly limited.

布料之形態可舉例如編物、織物等,但無特別限定。The form of the cloth may, for example, be a knitted fabric or a woven fabric, but is not particularly limited.

依如上述之構成所得到之布料進行拔蝕處理,可得到拔蝕部與非拔蝕部所形成之布料。拔蝕部係主要由彈性纖維與非拔蝕性非彈性纖維所構成,非拔蝕部係由彈性纖維與拔蝕性非彈性纖維與非拔蝕性非彈性纖維所構成。但即使在拔蝕部中,藉由減弱拔蝕之處理條件,亦可使拔蝕性非彈性纖維之一部分殘存。The fabric obtained by the above-described constitution is subjected to a etch treatment to obtain a fabric formed by the etched portion and the non-etched portion. The etched parts are mainly composed of elastic fibers and non-corroding inelastic fibers, and the non-corroded parts are composed of elastic fibers, corroded inelastic fibers and non-corroded inelastic fibers. However, even in the etched portion, a part of the erosive inelastic fiber can be left by weakening the processing conditions of the etched.

拔蝕處理係拔蝕拔蝕性非彈性纖維之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維,對布料賦予不拔蝕其他之構成纖維之適當拔蝕加工劑而實施。The etch-etching treatment is performed by etching the cationic dyeable polyester fiber of the erosive non-elastic fiber, and imparting a suitable etchant for the fabric without eroding other constituent fibers.

拔蝕加工劑係可舉例如以往所知之拔蝕加工劑即胍(guanidine)弱酸鹽、酚類、醇類、鹼金屬氫氧化物、鹼土族金屬氫氧化物等。拔蝕加工劑之濃度可適當決定。又,亦可使用第4級銨鹽作為拔蝕助劑。對布料賦予拔蝕加工劑後以80~170℃在加熱蒸氣中進行1~30分鐘蒸熱處理,幾乎不對其他之成分影響,可拔蝕應拔蝕之非彈性纖維。The etch-off processing agent may, for example, be a guanidine weak acid salt, a phenol, an alcohol, an alkali metal hydroxide or an alkaline earth metal hydroxide which is a conventional etching treatment agent. The concentration of the etching agent can be appropriately determined. Further, a fourth-order ammonium salt can also be used as the etch aid. After the etching treatment agent is applied to the cloth, the steaming treatment is carried out in a heating steam at 80 to 170 ° C for 1 to 30 minutes, and the non-elastic fibers which should be etched can be etched out without any influence on other components.

對布料之拔蝕加工劑的賦予方法,係可使用至少一種選自浸漬法、軋捲法、輾壓法、噴墨印刷法、軋染(padding)法、捺染法、噴塗法等之方法,只要含有拔蝕加工劑之液體可對不欲拔蝕之部分均一地賦予,並無特別限定。For the method of imparting the etching agent to the cloth, at least one selected from the group consisting of a dipping method, a rolling method, a rolling method, an inkjet printing method, a padding method, a dyeing method, a spray method, and the like may be used. The liquid containing the etching agent may be uniformly imparted to the portion not intended to be etched, and is not particularly limited.

在本發明中宜於所使用之纖維內部,進一步藉後加工具有拔蝕部與非拔蝕部之伸縮性布料賦予紫外線吸收劑。In the present invention, it is preferred to apply the ultraviolet absorbing agent to the inside of the fiber to be used, and further to process the stretchable cloth having the etched portion and the non-etched portion.

尤其彈性纖維宜使用以含有酚系抗氧化劑、或有機系紫外線吸收劑之狀態紡絲的醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。進一步宜使用苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑作為有機系紫外線吸收劑。酚系抗氧化劑、或有機系紫外線吸收劑係只要添加至聚氨基甲酸乙酯之紡絲步驟即可,亦可不對成為纖維之樹脂的聚合反應影響的程度於原料中進行調配。進一步,亦可於成為纖維之樹脂的聚合終了後進行調配,但宜於樹脂的聚合終了後至紡絲前之間進行調配。紡絲時所使用之紡絲裝置或紡絲條件並無特別限定,可依樹脂之組成、用途、目的、絲物性等而選擇公知之任意方法。In particular, an ether-based polyurethane fiber spun in a state containing a phenol-based antioxidant or an organic ultraviolet absorber is preferably used. Further, a benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is preferably used as the organic ultraviolet absorber. The phenolic antioxidant or the organic ultraviolet absorber may be added to the spinning step of the polyurethane, or may be blended in the raw material to the extent that it does not affect the polymerization reaction of the resin of the fiber. Further, it may be formulated after the polymerization of the fiber-forming resin is completed, but it is preferably formulated between the end of the polymerization of the resin and before the spinning. The spinning apparatus or the spinning conditions used in the spinning are not particularly limited, and any known method can be selected depending on the composition, use, purpose, and physical properties of the resin.

又,宜於後加工中賦予於構造中含有氯之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑。於構造中含有氯之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑係可舉例如2-(2'-羥基-3'-第三丁基-5'-甲基苯基)-5-氯苯並三唑、2-(2'-羥基-3',5’-二第三丁基苯基)-5-氯苯並三唑等。如上述之含有氯之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑係與聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維中之氨基末端基進行離子結合,故可有效地抑制因紫外線產生之脆化。若使用於構造中含有氯之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑以外之紫外線吸收劑,恐無法充分地抑制紫外線造成之聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維之脆化。Further, it is preferred to impart a benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine to the structure in the post-processing. The benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure may, for example, be 2-(2'-hydroxy-3'-t-butyl-5'-methylphenyl)-5-chlorobenzotriazole. , 2-(2'-hydroxy-3',5'-di-t-butylphenyl)-5-chlorobenzotriazole, and the like. Since the chlorine-containing benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is ionically bonded to the amino terminal group in the polyurethane fiber, embrittlement due to ultraviolet rays can be effectively suppressed. When it is used for an ultraviolet absorber other than the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber containing chlorine in the structure, the embrittlement of the polyurethane fiber due to ultraviolet rays may not be sufficiently suppressed.

上述之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑的賦予係得到布料後,可在任意之步驟中進行,但尤其染色加工布料時,宜與染料一起賦予苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑。其時,苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑相對於布料重量宜賦予0.1~20.0重量%,尤其賦予3.0~8.0重量%。若苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑之賦予量不足0.1重量%,恐無法防止因紫外線造成之聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維之脆化。又若苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑之賦予量超過20.0重量%,聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維之高伸縮性易受阻礙,或即使染色布料,產生很難顯現鮮明之色相的傾向。The above-mentioned benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber can be obtained in any step after the cloth is obtained. However, in the case of dyeing the cloth, it is preferred to impart a benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber together with the dye. In this case, the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is preferably added in an amount of 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, particularly 3.0 to 8.0% by weight, based on the weight of the cloth. When the amount of the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is less than 0.1% by weight, the embrittlement of the polyurethane fiber due to ultraviolet rays cannot be prevented. Further, when the amount of the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is more than 20.0% by weight, the high stretchability of the polyurethane fiber is liable to be impeded, or even if the fabric is dyed, it is difficult to develop a clear hue.

如上述般,宜使有機系紫外線吸收劑在紡絲前與製布後之後加工賦予2次。As described above, it is preferred to apply the organic ultraviolet absorber twice before spinning and after the cloth is formed.

對上述之布料賦予苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑後,實施熱處理。藉由實施熱處理,苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑係被聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維吸附。此熱處理係在染色加工後於一般所實施之經加工安定的步驟進行。熱處理條件宜在100℃以上的溫度進行數秒~數分鐘左右的時間。After the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is applied to the above-mentioned cloth, heat treatment is performed. By performing heat treatment, the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet absorber is adsorbed by the polyurethane fiber. This heat treatment is carried out after the dyeing process in the usual processing and stability step. The heat treatment conditions are preferably carried out at a temperature of 100 ° C or higher for a period of several seconds to several minutes.

本發明之具伸縮性布料係拔蝕部中之碳弧燈照射40小時後之應力保持率宜為碳弧燈照射前之90%以上。若應力保持率不足90%,恐穿著時拔蝕部被破壞,或易引起伸縮性降低。The stress retention rate after 40 hours of irradiation of the carbon arc lamp in the etched portion of the stretchable cloth of the present invention is preferably 90% or more before the irradiation of the carbon arc lamp. If the stress retention rate is less than 90%, the etched portion may be damaged when worn, or the stretchability may be lowered.

又,拔蝕部之30%伸長時之應力宜為非拔蝕部之30%伸長時之應力的20~85%。若應力比不足20%,很難得到緊繃感,伸長後之回復恐無法充分,且恐無法得到運動功能性提昇、體型修正等之效果。Further, the stress at 30% elongation of the etched portion is preferably 20 to 85% of the stress at 30% elongation of the non-etched portion. If the stress ratio is less than 20%, it is difficult to obtain a feeling of tightness, and the recovery after stretching may not be sufficient, and the effects of improvement in motor function and body shape correction may not be obtained.

若應力比大於85%,很難得到拔蝕部與非拔蝕部之應力差,恐很難得到目的之功能效果。If the stress ratio is more than 85%, it is difficult to obtain the stress difference between the etched portion and the non-etched portion, and it is difficult to obtain the functional effect of the purpose.

又,拔蝕部之彈性纖維的斷裂強度為非拔蝕部之彈性纖維的斷裂強度的90%以上。若斷裂強度比不足90%,恐穿著時拔蝕部被破壞,或易引起伸縮性降低。Further, the breaking strength of the elastic fiber of the etched portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the elastic fiber of the non-etched portion. If the breaking strength ratio is less than 90%, the etched portion may be broken when worn, or the stretchability may be lowered.

此等之特性係可容易地藉由上述之非處理布料與拔蝕處理與紫外線吸收劑之組合來達成。These characteristics can be easily achieved by the combination of the non-treated cloth described above and the etch treatment and the ultraviolet absorber.

本發明之具伸縮性布料係亦可於上述拔蝕部、非拔蝕部之任意的區域賦予圖案及顏色等。In the stretchable fabric of the present invention, a pattern, a color, and the like may be imparted to any of the etched portion and the non-etched portion.

實施例Example

以下,一起舉出本發明之實施例與比較例,具體地說明本發明,但本發明不受以下之實施例所限定。又,實施例、比較例中之「%」表示「重量%」。Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples and comparative examples of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited by the following examples. In addition, "%" in the examples and comparative examples means "% by weight".

又,將實施例中之特性值的測定法表示於以下。任一者只要無特別聲明,在20℃、65%RH環境下測定。Further, the measurement method of the characteristic value in the examples is shown below. Either of them was measured at 20 ° C and 65% RH unless otherwise stated.

(拔蝕部對非拔蝕部之應力比率)使用Autograph(股份公司島津製作所製),準備寬25mm、抗拉長100mm、卡盤抓住長100mm的試料,以300mm/分之速度延伸至180mm(80%伸長)後,除去荷重回復至初期設定之100mm。反覆此動作3次,從第3次之SS曲線讀取30%伸長時之荷重(30%伸長力),作為應力值。以非拔蝕部之應力值作為S0 ,以拔蝕部之應力值作為S1 而從下述式1算出。(The stress ratio of the etched part to the non-etched part) was prepared using Autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) to prepare a sample with a width of 25 mm, a tensile length of 100 mm, and a chuck for a length of 100 mm, and extended to 180 mm at a speed of 300 mm/min. After (80% elongation), the load was removed and returned to the initial setting of 100 mm. This operation was repeated three times, and the load (30% elongation force) at 30% elongation was read from the third SS curve as a stress value. The stress value of the non-etched portion is taken as S 0 , and the stress value of the etched portion is calculated as S 1 from the following formula 1.

應力比率(%)=S1 ÷S0 ×100 (1)Stress ratio (%) = S 1 ÷S 0 × 100 (1)

(拔蝕部之彈性纖維與非拔蝕部之彈性纖維的斷裂強度比)使用Autograph(股份公司島津製作所製)在20℃、65%RH環境下,準備抗拉長100mm、卡盤抓住長100mm的彈性纖維,以300mm/分之速度伸長,斷裂,測定斷裂時之強力。從非拔蝕部之質料採取的彈性纖維之斷裂時的強度作為A0 ,從拔蝕部之質料採取的彈性纖維之斷裂時的強度作為A1 。斷裂強度比率依以下之式2而算出。(The breaking strength ratio of the elastic fiber of the etched portion to the elastic fiber of the non-corroded portion) is prepared by using Autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) at 20 ° C and 65% RH, and the length of the chuck is 100 mm. The elastic fiber of 100 mm was elongated at a rate of 300 mm/min, broken, and the strength at the time of breaking was measured. The strength at the time of breaking of the elastic fiber taken from the material of the non-etching portion is taken as A 0 , and the strength at the time of breaking of the elastic fiber taken from the material of the etched portion is taken as A 1 . The breaking strength ratio was calculated according to the following formula 2.

斷裂強度比率(%)=A1 ÷A0 ×100 (2)Breaking strength ratio (%)=A 1 ÷A 0 ×100 (2)

於布料之紫外線照射係依JIS L0842-1988,藉碳弧燈法(63℃)實施。使用紫外線碳弧燈式耐光性試驗機,照射40小時。其次,應力保持率係以如下之方法評估。使用Autograph(股份公司島津製作所製)而準備寬25mm、抗拉長100mm、卡盤抓住長100mm的試料,以300mm/分之速度延伸至180mm(80%伸長)後,除去荷重回復至初期設定之100mm。反覆此動作3次,從第3次之SS曲線讀取30%伸長時之荷重(30%伸長應力)。The ultraviolet irradiation of the cloth was carried out by a carbon arc lamp method (63 ° C) in accordance with JIS L0842-1988. The irradiation was carried out for 40 hours using an ultraviolet carbon arc lamp type light resistance tester. Second, the stress retention rate was evaluated in the following manner. A sample having a width of 25 mm, a tensile length of 100 mm, and a chuck length of 100 mm was prepared using Autograph (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), and the sample was extended to 180 mm (80% elongation) at a speed of 300 mm/min, and the load was returned to the initial setting. 100mm. This action was repeated three times, and the load (30% elongation stress) at 30% elongation was read from the third SS curve.

以實施前述耐光試驗之前的拔蝕部之布料第3次的30%伸長應力作為未處理之值為T0 、以實施前述耐光試驗之後的拔蝕部之布料第3次的30%伸長應力作為T1 ,應力保持率係如以下之式3般計算。The third 30% elongation stress of the cloth of the etched portion before the light resistance test is performed as the untreated value T 0 , and the third 30% elongation stress of the cloth of the etched portion after the light resistance test is performed is used as T 1 , the stress retention ratio is calculated as in the following formula 3.

應力保持率(%)=T1 ÷T0 ×100 (3)Stress retention rate (%) = T 1 ÷T 0 × 100 (3)

(聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維之耐鹼性評估試驗)使所使用之聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維在常溫下浸漬於6%濃度之苛性鈉水溶性後自然乾燥,以該聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維伸長50%之狀態在160℃下濕熱處理10分鐘後,以40℃之熱水洗淨後自然乾燥。其後,以Autograph(股份公司島津製作所製抗拉強度試驗機)以n=5測定抗拉斷裂強度。算出與未處理之聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維的斷裂強度比率。(Alkaline resistance evaluation test of polyurethane fiber) The polyurethane fiber used is immersed in a 6% concentration of caustic soda at a normal temperature, and is naturally dried, and the polyurethane fiber is elongated. The state of 50% was heat-treated at 160 ° C for 10 minutes, and then washed with hot water of 40 ° C and then naturally dried. Thereafter, the tensile strength at break was measured at an angle of n=5 by Autograph (a tensile strength tester manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation). The breaking strength ratio to the untreated polyurethane fiber was calculated.

(非拔蝕性非彈性纖維纖維的強度係數)強度係數=(纖度(dtex)×單絲強度(CN/dtex)×每單位面積之密度(粗度×井束或縱密度×橫密度)×拔蝕部進行拔蝕之前的非拔蝕性非彈性纖維之混率。(Intensity coefficient of non-corroded inelastic fiber fiber) Strength coefficient = (denier (dtex) × monofilament strength (CN / dtex) × density per unit area (thickness × well beam or longitudinal density × horizontal density) × The mixing rate of the non-corroded inelastic fibers before the etched portion is etched.

單絲強度係Ny為5CN/dtex,PET係以6CN/dtex計算。The monofilament strength system Ny is 5CN/dtex, and the PET system is calculated at 6CN/dtex.

[實施例1][Example 1]

藉由耐綸6纖維(Toray(股)製、33dtex/26f)、與常壓可染型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維(三菱嫘縈(股)製、56dtex/36f)、及醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維(東洋紡(股)製、愛斯帕T-71、單絲纖維度44dtex耐鹼強度試驗65%)所構成之經編的緞紋組織,使用耐綸纖維40.0重量%、常壓陽離子可染性聚酯纖維40.0重量%、聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維20.0重量%所構成之複合布料(厚度1mm)。It is made of nylon 6 fiber (made from Toray Co., Ltd., 33dtex/26f), and cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi 嫘萦, 56dtex/36f) and ether condensate. The warp-knitted satin weave composed of urethane fiber (made by Toyobo Co., Ltd., Espa Tester T-71, and monofilament fiber 44 dtex alkali resistance test), using nylon fiber 40.0% by weight, often A composite fabric (thickness: 1 mm) composed of 40.0% by weight of a cationically-dyeable polyester fiber and 20.0% by weight of a polyurethane fiber.

於布料之表面使用網印機而使含第4級銨鹽之下述的配方1所構成的處理液印捺成條紋狀,其後,以溫度110℃之過熱蒸氣進行蒸熱處理15分鐘,使捺染糊所含有之第4級銨鹽被布料吸收。然後,以30℃之水進行水洗處理10分鐘,進一步以60℃進行熱洗10分鐘,俾完全地除去附著於纖維布料薄片表面之捺染糊與殘留之第4級銨鹽。然後,就拔蝕處理而言,係於溫度90℃、1.2重量%濃度之氫氧化鈉水溶液中浸漬30分鐘後,進行攪拌處理後,取出,完全地除去附著之氫氧化鈉,故進一步以70℃之溫水進行5分鐘之水洗3次。其後,以乾燥機在130℃下乾燥2分鐘。The treatment liquid composed of the following Formula 1 containing the fourth-order ammonium salt was printed on a stripe on the surface of the fabric by a screen printing machine, and then subjected to steaming treatment at a temperature of 110 ° C for 15 minutes. The fourth grade ammonium salt contained in the mash paste is absorbed by the cloth. Thereafter, the mixture was washed with water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, and further heat-washed at 60 ° C for 10 minutes to completely remove the mash paste adhering to the surface of the fiber cloth sheet and the remaining fourth-order ammonium salt. Then, in the etching treatment, the mixture was immersed in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution having a temperature of 90 ° C and a concentration of 1.2% by weight for 30 minutes, and then stirred and then taken out to completely remove the adhered sodium hydroxide. The warm water of °C was washed 3 times in 5 minutes. Thereafter, it was dried at 130 ° C for 2 minutes in a dryer.

[配方1]Laccol CT-2000 20%(明成化學工業(股)製、第4級銨鹽)Fujichemie HEC BL30 40%(富士化學(股)製、羥乙基纖維素)水 40%[Formula 1] Laccol CT-2000 20% (Mingcheng Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., grade 4 ammonium salt) Fujichemie HEC BL30 40% (Fuji Chemical Co., Ltd., hydroxyethyl cellulose) water 40%

其後,於作為紫外線吸收劑之2-(2-羥基-3,5-二第三丁基苯基)-5-氯-苯並三唑20.0%owf、醋酸1.0cc/升之水溶液中使上述布料在100℃下浸漬處理30分鐘,評估結果表示於表1中。Thereafter, it was made into an aqueous solution of 2-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenyl)-5-chloro-benzotriazole 20.0% owf as an ultraviolet absorber and 1.0 cc/liter of acetic acid. The above cloth was immersed at 100 ° C for 30 minutes, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[實施例2][Embodiment 2]

在實施例1所使用之布料中,就固形分膜換算成為2g/m2 之方式以軋染(padding)法投入由下述配方2所構成之處理液,在170℃下乾燥2分鐘而形成油墨受理層。In the fabric used in the first embodiment, the treatment liquid composed of the following formulation 2 was placed in a padding method in a manner of 2 g/m 2 in the form of a solid film, and dried at 170 ° C for 2 minutes. Ink receiving layer.

[配方2]DKS精細橡膠HEL-1 2%(第一工業製藥(股)製、醚化羧甲基纖維素)MS液 5%(明成化學工業(股)製、硝基苯磺酸鹽、抗還原劑、有效成分30%)水 93%[Formulation 2] DKS Fine Rubber HEL-1 2% (First Industrial Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., etherified carboxymethylcellulose) MS solution 5% (Mingcheng Chemical Industry Co., Ltd., nitrobenzenesulfonate, Anti-reducing agent, active ingredient 30%) water 93%

然後,於形成油墨受理層之布料中使下述配方3之拔蝕用油墨使用手動(On demand)方式系列掃描型噴墨印捺裝置而印捺成條紋狀。Then, the etch-off ink of the following Formula 3 was printed in a stripe shape using a manual (On Demand) series scanning type ink jet printing apparatus in the cloth forming the ink receiving layer.

[配方3]碳酸胍(纖維分解劑) 20%尿素(溶解安定劑) 5%二乙二醇(乾燥抑制劑) 5%水 70%[Formulation 3] Barium carbonate (fiber decomposer) 20% urea (dissolving stabilizer) 5% diethylene glycol (drying inhibitor) 5% water 70%

進一步,乾燥布料後,使用HT蒸化機(steamer)而以160℃濕熱處理20分鐘。進一步,以含有Tripol TK(第一工業製藥(股)製,非離子界面活性劑)2g/升、蘇打灰2g/升之吸附浴,以50℃處理10分鐘而洗淨後,水洗,乾燥而得到拔蝕加工物。Further, after drying the cloth, it was heat-treated at 160 ° C for 20 minutes using a HT steamer. Further, the mixture was washed at 50 ° C for 10 minutes in an adsorption bath containing 2 g / liter of Tripol TK (manufactured by Daiichi Takumi Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant), washed with water, and dried. A corroded workpiece is obtained.

其後,於作為紫外線吸收劑之2-(2-羥基-3,5-二第三丁基苯基)-5-氯-苯並三唑20.0%owf、醋酸1.0cc/升之水溶液中使上述布料在100℃下浸漬處理30分鐘,評估結果表示於表1中。Thereafter, it was made into an aqueous solution of 2-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenyl)-5-chloro-benzotriazole 20.0% owf as an ultraviolet absorber and 1.0 cc/liter of acetic acid. The above cloth was immersed at 100 ° C for 30 minutes, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[實施例3][Example 3]

藉由一般聚酯纖維(Toray(股)製、33dtex/26f)、與常壓可染型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維(三菱嫘縈(股)製、33dtex/36f)、及醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維(東洋紡(股)製、愛斯帕T-71、單絲纖維度44dtex耐鹼強度試驗65%)所構成之經編的經平組織,使用一般聚酯纖維43.0重量%、常壓陽離子可染性聚酯纖維43.0重量%、聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維14.0重量%所構成之複合布料(厚度1mm),與實施例1相同之條件進行加工。評估結果表示於表1中。It is made of a general polyester fiber (made from Toray Co., Ltd., 33dtex/26f), a cationic dyeable polyester fiber (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 33dtex/36f), and an ether-based polycondensation. A warp-knitted warp-knitted structure composed of urethane fibers (manufactured by Toyobo Co., Ltd., Espa Tester T-71, and a monofilament fiber degree 44 dtex alkali resistance test) was used in an amount of 43.0% by weight of a general polyester fiber. A composite fabric (thickness: 1 mm) composed of 43.0% by weight of a normal-pressure cationic dyeable polyester fiber and 14.0% by weight of a polyurethane fiber was processed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.

[比較例1][Comparative Example 1]

藉由耐綸6纖維(Toray(股)製、33dtex/26f)、與常壓可染型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維(三菱嫘縈(股)製、56dtex/36f)、及醚/酯系彈性絲(帝人(股)製Lekuse、單絲纖維度44dtex耐鹼強度保持率40%)所構成之經編的經平組織,使用耐綸纖維40.0重量%、常壓陽離子可染性聚酯纖維40.0重量%、聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維20.0重量%所構成之複合布料(厚度1mm)。Cationic dyeable polyester fiber (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd., 33dtex/26f), and atmospheric pressure dyeable type (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., 56dtex/36f), and ether/ester A warp-knitted warp-knitted structure composed of elastic yarn (Lekuse made by Teijin and 40 dtex alkali resistance retention rate), using nylon fiber 40.0% by weight, atmospheric pressure cationic dyeable polyester A composite fabric (thickness: 1 mm) composed of 40.0% by weight of fibers and 20.0% by weight of polyurethane fibers.

於布料之表面使用網印機而使含第4級銨鹽之配方1所構成的處理液印捺成條紋狀,以溫度110℃乾燥2分鐘。其後,以溫度110℃之過熱蒸氣進行蒸熱處理15分鐘,使捺染糊所含有之第4級銨鹽被布料吸收。然後,以30℃之水進行水洗處理10分鐘,進一步以60℃進行熱洗10分鐘,俾完全地除去附著於纖維布料薄片表面之捺染糊與殘留之第4級銨鹽。然後,就拔蝕處理而言,係於溫度90℃、1.2重量%濃度之氫氧化鈉水溶液中浸漬30分鐘後,進行攪拌處理後,取出,完全地除去附著之氫氧化鈉,故進一步以70℃之溫水進行5分鐘之水洗3次。其後,以乾燥機在130℃下乾燥2分鐘。The treatment liquid composed of the formulation 1 containing the fourth-order ammonium salt was printed on a surface of the fabric by a screen printing machine in a stripe shape, and dried at a temperature of 110 ° C for 2 minutes. Thereafter, the mixture was subjected to a steam heat treatment at a temperature of 110 ° C for 15 minutes to absorb the fourth-order ammonium salt contained in the mash paste. Thereafter, the mixture was washed with water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, and further heat-washed at 60 ° C for 10 minutes to completely remove the mash paste adhering to the surface of the fiber cloth sheet and the remaining fourth-order ammonium salt. Then, in the etching treatment, the mixture was immersed in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution having a temperature of 90 ° C and a concentration of 1.2% by weight for 30 minutes, and then stirred and then taken out to completely remove the adhered sodium hydroxide. The warm water of °C was washed 3 times in 5 minutes. Thereafter, it was dried at 130 ° C for 2 minutes in a dryer.

其後,於含有氯之作為紫外線吸收劑之2-(2-羥基-3,5-二第三丁基苯基)-5-氯-苯並三唑20.0%owf、醋酸1.0cc/升之水溶液中使上述布料在100℃下浸漬處理30分鐘,評估結果表示於表2中。Thereafter, 2-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenyl)-5-chloro-benzotriazole 20.0% owf as a UV absorber containing chlorine, 1.0 cc/liter of acetic acid The cloth was immersed in an aqueous solution at 100 ° C for 30 minutes, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

[比較例2][Comparative Example 2]

藉由耐綸6纖維(Toray(股)製、33dtex/26f)、與常壓可染型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維(三菱嫘縈(股)製、56dtex/36f)、及醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維(東洋紡(股)製、愛斯帕T-71、單絲纖維度44dtex耐鹼強度試驗65%)所構成之經編的緞紋組織,使用耐綸纖維20.0重量%、常壓陽離子可染性聚酯纖維60.0重量%、聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維20.0重量%所構成之複合布料(厚度1mm)。It is made of nylon 6 fiber (made from Toray Co., Ltd., 33dtex/26f), and cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi 嫘萦, 56dtex/36f) and ether condensate. The warp-knitted satin weave composed of urethane fiber (made by Toyobo Co., Ltd., Espa Tester T-71, and monofilament fiber 44 dtex alkali resistance test), using 20.0% by weight of nylon fiber, often A composite fabric (thickness: 1 mm) composed of 60.0% by weight of a cationically dyeable polyester fiber and 20.0% by weight of a polyurethane fiber.

於布料之表面使用網印機而使含第4級銨鹽之配方1所構成的處理液印捺成條紋狀,其後,以溫度110℃之過熱蒸氣進行蒸熱處理15分鐘,使捺染糊所含有之第4級銨鹽被布料吸收。然後,以30℃之水進行水洗處理10分鐘,進一步以60℃進行熱洗10分鐘,俾完全地除去附著於纖維布料薄片表面之捺染糊與殘留之第4級銨鹽。然後,就拔蝕處理而言,係於溫度90℃、1.2重量%濃度之氫氧化鈉水溶液中浸漬30分鐘後,進行攪拌處理後,取出,完全地除去附著之氫氧化鈉,故進一步以70℃之溫水進行5分鐘之水洗3次。其後,以乾燥機在130℃下乾燥2分鐘。The treatment liquid composed of the formula 1 containing the fourth-order ammonium salt was printed on the surface of the fabric by a screen printing machine, and then subjected to steaming treatment at a temperature of 110 ° C for 15 minutes to make a paste. The fourth grade ammonium salt contained is absorbed by the cloth. Thereafter, the mixture was washed with water at 30 ° C for 10 minutes, and further heat-washed at 60 ° C for 10 minutes to completely remove the mash paste adhering to the surface of the fiber cloth sheet and the remaining fourth-order ammonium salt. Then, in the etching treatment, the mixture was immersed in a sodium hydroxide aqueous solution having a temperature of 90 ° C and a concentration of 1.2% by weight for 30 minutes, and then stirred and then taken out to completely remove the adhered sodium hydroxide. The warm water of °C was washed 3 times in 5 minutes. Thereafter, it was dried at 130 ° C for 2 minutes in a dryer.

其後,於作為紫外線吸收劑之2-(2-羥基-3,5-二第三丁基苯基)-5-氯-苯並三唑20.0%owf、醋酸1.0cc/升之水溶液中使上述布料在100℃下浸漬處理30分鐘,評估結果表示於表2中。Thereafter, it was made into an aqueous solution of 2-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenyl)-5-chloro-benzotriazole 20.0% owf as an ultraviolet absorber and 1.0 cc/liter of acetic acid. The above cloth was immersed at 100 ° C for 30 minutes, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

[比較例3][Comparative Example 3]

藉由耐綸6纖維(Toray(股)製、33dtex/26f)、與常壓可染型之陽離子可染性聚酯纖維(三菱嫘縈(股)製、56dtex/36f)、及醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維(東洋紡(股)製、愛斯帕T-71、單絲纖維度44dtex耐鹼強度保持率65%)所構成之經編的緞紋組織,使用耐綸纖維30.0重量%、常壓陽離子可染性聚酯纖維45.0重量%、聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維25.0重量%所構成之複合布料(厚度1mm)中,就固形分膜換算成為2g/m2 之方式以軋染(padding)法賦予由配方2所構成之處理液,在170℃下乾燥2分鐘而形成油墨受理層。It is made of nylon 6 fiber (made from Toray Co., Ltd., 33dtex/26f), and cationic dyeable polyester fiber (Mitsubishi 嫘萦, 56dtex/36f) and ether condensate. The warp-knitted satin weave composed of urethane fiber (made by Toyobo Co., Ltd., Espa Tester T-71, and monofilament fiber degree 44 dtex alkali resistance retention rate) was 30.0% by weight of nylon fiber. In a composite fabric (thickness: 1 mm) composed of a normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester fiber of 45.0% by weight and a polyurethane fiber of 25.0% by weight, padding is performed in a manner of 2 g/m 2 in terms of a solid film. The treatment liquid composed of the formulation 2 was applied and dried at 170 ° C for 2 minutes to form an ink receiving layer.

然後,於形成油墨受理層之布料中使下述配方3之拔蝕用油墨使用手動(On demand)方式系列掃描型噴墨印捺裝置而印捺成條紋狀。Then, the etch-off ink of the following Formula 3 was printed in a stripe shape using a manual (On Demand) series scanning type ink jet printing apparatus in the cloth forming the ink receiving layer.

進一步,乾燥布料後,使用HT蒸化機(steamer)而以160℃濕熱處理20分鐘。進一步,以含有Tripol TK(第一工業製藥(股)製,非離子界面活性劑)2g/升、蘇打灰2g/升之吸附浴,以50℃處理10分鐘而洗淨後,水洗,乾燥而得到拔蝕加工物。Further, after drying the cloth, it was heat-treated at 160 ° C for 20 minutes using a HT steamer. Further, the mixture was washed at 50 ° C for 10 minutes in an adsorption bath containing 2 g / liter of Tripol TK (manufactured by Daiichi Takumi Co., Ltd., nonionic surfactant), washed with water, and dried. A corroded workpiece is obtained.

其後,於作為紫外線吸收劑之2-(2-羥基-3,5-二第三丁基苯基)-5-氯-苯並三唑20.0%owf、醋酸1.0cc/升之水溶液中使上述布料在100℃下浸漬處理30分鐘,評估結果表示於表2中。Thereafter, it was made into an aqueous solution of 2-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-t-butylphenyl)-5-chloro-benzotriazole 20.0% owf as an ultraviolet absorber and 1.0 cc/liter of acetic acid. The above cloth was immersed at 100 ° C for 30 minutes, and the evaluation results are shown in Table 2.

產業上之利用可能性Industrial use possibility

本發明之具伸縮性布料係無損質感或穿著感,而又通氣性或耐久性優且適用於使用來作為運動或室內領域之衣等。The stretchable fabric of the present invention is excellent in air permeability or durability, and is suitable for use as a garment for sports or indoors, etc., without impairing texture or wearing feeling.

Claims (7)

一種具伸縮性布料,其特徵在於:藉拔蝕性非彈性纖維、非拔蝕性非彈性纖維及彈性纖維所構成,且具有拔蝕部與非拔蝕部,前述拔蝕性非彈性纖維為由陽離子可染性聚酯纖維所構成,前述彈性纖維為由耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維所構成,前述非拔蝕性非彈性纖維的強度係數(纖度(dtex)×單絲強度(CN/dtex)×每單位面積之密度(粗度×井束或縱密度×橫密度)×拔蝕部進行拔蝕之前的非拔蝕性非彈性纖維之混率)為170,000以上,前述耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維為6%濃度之苛性鈉水溶液中常溫下浸漬5分鐘後的強度維持率為60%以上之耐鹼性聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。 A stretchable fabric characterized by: a corroded inelastic fiber, a non-corrosive inelastic fiber, and an elastic fiber, and having a etched portion and a non-etched portion, wherein the etched inelastic fiber is It is composed of a cationic dyeable polyester fiber, the elastic fiber is composed of an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber, and the strength coefficient (denier (dtex) × monofilament strength (CN) of the non-corroded inelastic fiber /dtex) × density per unit area (thickness × well beam or longitudinal density × lateral density) × mixing ratio of non-corroding inelastic fibers before etched by the etched portion) is 170,000 or more, and the aforementioned alkali-resistant polymerization The urethane fiber is an alkali-resistant polyurethane fiber having a strength retention rate of 60% or more after immersion for 5 minutes at normal temperature in a 6% strength aqueous solution of caustic soda. 如申請專利範圍第1項之具伸縮性布料,其中拔蝕處理前之構成纖維的比率係前述陽離子可染性聚酯纖維為30~55%,前述非拔蝕性非彈性纖維為25~55%,前述聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維為10~45%。 The stretchable fabric of the first aspect of the patent application, wherein the ratio of the constituent fibers before the etch treatment is 30 to 55% of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber, and the non-corrosive inelastic fiber is 25 to 55. %, the aforementioned polyurethane fiber is 10 to 45%. 如申請專利範圍第1項的具伸縮性布料,其中前述拔蝕部之破壞強度為200KPa以上。 The stretchable fabric of claim 1, wherein the etched portion has a breaking strength of 200 KPa or more. 如申請專利範圍第1項的具伸縮性布料,其中前述非拔蝕性非彈性纖維為耐綸(Nylon)纖維,彈性纖維為醚系聚氨基甲酸乙酯纖維。 The stretchable fabric of claim 1, wherein the non-corrosive inelastic fibers are Nylon fibers, and the elastic fibers are ether-based polyurethane fibers. 如申請專利範圍第1項的具伸縮性布料,其中賦 予紫外線吸收劑。 Such as the patented scope of item 1 of the stretch fabric, which Give UV absorbers. 如申請專利範圍第5項的具伸縮性布料,其中前述紫外線吸收劑之賦予係於構造中含有氯之苯並三唑系紫外線吸收劑之後加工所實施的賦予。 The stretchable fabric of claim 5, wherein the ultraviolet ray absorbing agent is imparted by processing after the benzotriazole-based ultraviolet ray absorbing agent containing chlorine in the structure. 如申請專利範圍第1項的具伸縮性布料,其中照射碳弧光燈光40小時後之前述拔蝕部的應力保持率為90%以上,前述拔蝕部的30%的伸長時的應力為非拔蝕部的30%伸長時的應力之20~85%,且,前述拔蝕部之前述彈性纖維的斷裂強度為前述非拔蝕部之前述彈性纖維的斷裂強度的90%以上。 The stretchable fabric of claim 1, wherein the stress retention rate of the etched portion after the irradiation of the carbon arc light for 40 hours is 90% or more, and the stress at the elongation of the etched portion is 30%. The stress at 30% elongation of the etched portion is 20 to 85%, and the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the etched portion is 90% or more of the breaking strength of the elastic fiber in the non-etched portion.
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